Vinyl siding covering the pediment. Sheathing the gable with siding: step by step instructions. How to sheathe a gable with sanding. Detailed instructions for sheathing the gable with vinyl siding Mounting the siding on the gable

Finishing the gables of a house is just as important as building a roof. To achieve this goal, it is proposed to use various materials, but most often they point to siding. The increased interest in this building material is due to its reasonable price, unparalleled practicality and ease of installation work.

Description of the gable from the siding

A pediment is a section of a roof that is formed between several roof slopes. The height of the end area of the roof ranges between 70 and 250 cm. The size of the pediment is influenced by whether it is decided to make the attic a utility or residential space.

The shape of the pediment most often can be:

semicircular;
stepped;
triangular;
trapezoidal;
broken.

Since the pediment is a structural part of pitched roofs, its shape directly depends on the type of roof.

The most simple in terms of construction are triangular, trapezoid and broken pediment. The last two options are chosen by those wishing to increase the space under the roof. Still, the roof in the shape of a triangle makes the attic space uncomfortable and cramped.

The pediment is decorated with siding, trying to "put an end" to the appearance of the facade of the building. The panels fit perfectly into the overall ensemble, regardless of what material was used in the construction of the walls.

A siding gable is a suitable option for brick, wood, and stone buildings.

The pediment is covered with siding, practically not paying attention to the material from which the walls of the building are made.

Siding is actively used, if necessary, to sheathe a gable, because this material highlights the following advantages:

wide range of colors;
invulnerability to dampness;
performance stability;
lack of interest from rodents;
elementary installation steps;
the ability to serve flawlessly without much care.

Siding, which is a panel with oval holes, is made in various colors

Correct calculation of panels

The amount of material needed to finish the pediment is determined by taking into account the shape of the roof, which is usually triangular or trapezoidal. Also, when calculating the siding, pay attention to how much space on the gable is occupied by the windows and doors of the attic.

To calculate how much building materials will be spent on finishing the pediment, you need to know its dimensions and the parameters of the facade of the house.

The calculation of the gable area depends on the shape of the end area of the roof

In most cases, the material is calculated on the gable in the shape of a triangle. It is formed by a simple roof with two identical straight slopes and is therefore used especially often.

The calculation of siding for a triangular pediment is based on the similarity of the design with an isosceles triangle, the sides of which differ in the identity of lengths.

The triangular pediment is similar to an isosceles triangle, which affects the calculation of the sheathing material

The amount of material (in square meters) for the end area of \u200b\u200bthe roof with two slopes is calculated in several steps:

Multiplying the sum of the height and length of the base of the triangle by 1/2, they find the area of the pediment (S f \u003d 0.5 × (2 + 6) \u003d 4 m², while the height of the triangle is 2 m and the width is 6 m).
The area of the available window openings is determined, which is subtracted from the total area of the gable.
When the roof forms two gables, the figure obtained in the previous step is doubled (S 2f \u003d 4 × 2 \u003d 8 m²).
The area of one rectangular siding panel is determined, that is, the width of one element of material is multiplied by the length (for example, 0.2 m × 4 m = 0.8 m 2).
The amount of material is found by dividing the area of the gables by the area of one siding panel (8 m² / 0.8 m 2 \u003d 10 pieces).

If the same building materials used to decorate the facade are used for sheathing the gables, then the calculation of the siding is performed according to the formula S total \u003d S facade + S gables (112 m² + 8 m² = 120 m²).

Trapezoidal pediment

The problem with calculating the amount of siding for sheathing a pediment in the form of a trapezoid is solved differently:

According to the trapezoid area formula, the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment is determined (S \u003d 0.5 × (a + b) × h \u003d 0.5 × (6 + 8) × 2 \u003d 14 m², while a and b are taken as the lengths of the two bases of the figure, and for h - its height).
Find out what is the area of one or more windows in the end area of the roof. The result of multiplying the length of the window opening by its width is subtracted from the total area of the pediment.
To find out the area of the two gables of the roof, the number obtained in the previous step is doubled (14 m 2 × 2 \u003d 28 m²).
Determine what is the area of one panel of material by multiplying its length by its width (for example, 0.2 m × 4 m = 0.8 m 2).
They find out how much building materials will need to be bought, that is, the area of \u200b\u200bthe gables is divided by the area of \u200b\u200bthe siding panel (28 m² / 0.8 m 2 \u003d 35 pieces).

The trapezoidal pediment repeats the outlines of the trapezoid, so the amount of sheathing material is found out after calculating the area of \u200b\u200bthe geometric figure

The amount of siding for a gable of a more complex shape is calculated after conditionally dividing the end area of the roof into rectangles and triangles.

DIY sheathing

You need to prepare well for finishing work: find the necessary fittings and tools, as well as familiarize yourself with the strictly observed rules for installing siding.

Required fittings

To fix the siding panels on the gable, you will need:

H-shaped profile for fastening panels;
An H-shaped profile is needed to connect several panels
external and internal corners as auxiliary elements for fastening the material along the perimeter of the gable;
universal J-shaped profile;
J-profile is used when you need to close the cut end of the end of another mounting element
wind, initial and final slats;
soffit panels (for covering various horizontal surfaces facing down);
Soffit panels are sheathed with mounting elements facing downwards
a bar for windows (not needed if the window openings are cut at the same level as the gable wall);
stainless galvanized hangers, self-tapping screws and dowels.

Before installing the siding, it is wiser to purchase original fasteners, which are provided complete with finishing building materials. Self-tapping screws purchased from one manufacturer are definitely not suitable as fasteners for panels from another manufacturer, since they will not be able to securely fix the material.

Tools

Sheathing the gable with siding is performed using tools such as:

Before construction work, you must definitely take care of safety - find scaffolding and high ladders to climb the roof.

Scaffolding will make the work of sheathing the gable safe

Rules for fixing siding

Fixing the siding will not seem like a difficult task and will be done with high quality if you install the panels in accordance with the following rules:

the surface for fastening the siding must be cleaned of dust or old finishes and carefully plastered if cracks or other defects are found;
panels may only be fixed on an even base, which can be achieved with plaster that can eliminate pits and tubercles larger than 2 mm;
the wooden surface under the siding must be coated with a primer in order to prevent rotting;
it is forbidden to fix the panels with an overlap, because this will entail the appearance of cracks where moisture and rubbish will get in - real pests for the sheathing material;
it is more reasonable to make a frame for siding from galvanized metal, for example, from aluminum profiles, which, unlike wood, do not rot and put much less pressure on the walls of the house;
the crate for facing building materials should be made from new material, and not from scraps of boards left on the farm after any work;
siding elements must not be placed close to the fittings, because they will become cramped when expanding under the influence of temperature, which will lead to deformation of the product;
The panel must not be brought closer to the wall of the H-shaped profile than 5 mm
under normal installation conditions, 2 mm of free space is left between two elements of the sheathing material, and when arranging the pediment in winter, when the temperature drops below 5 degrees, the clearance is increased to 1.2 cm.
The gap between the siding panels can be from 2 to 12 mm

Instructions for arranging a pediment from siding

To decorate the gable with siding, take the following steps:

They decide how - metal or wood - to build a frame for finishing material. Metal profiles are fixed on the gable with galvanized hangers and placed every half a meter or 60 cm. And wooden elements (bars with a diameter of 25 to 30 cm and a humidity of not more than 20%) are mounted, leaving 40-50 cm gaps between them.
Around the windows, the frame for siding is created from a flexible J-profile. In the areas of attachment of lighting fixtures, several additional elements of the crate are fixed.
The cells of the manufactured frame are filled with insulation (mineral wool) and covered with a waterproofing film, fixed with self-tapping screws and laid on the sides of the structure with an overlap of 15 cm.
Frame profiles are attached to the gable only after waterproofing work
Fittings are mounted on the pediment. First of all, the outer and inner corners are attached to the frame. Following them, H-profiles are installed. The process is controlled by a level and a plumb line. Vertically, the fittings are fixed on self-tapping screws, which in no case are immersed in the material too tightly. For fixing horizontal parts, nails are used, the heads of which are left at a distance of 2 mm from the surface of the material.
At the bottom of the gable, the first siding strips are attached. At the same time, gaps must be left between the elements. The panel, mounted at the very top of the structure, is fixed with a finishing strip. The fastening of any element is carried out every 40 cm. A nail, self-tapping screw or bracket is inserted strictly into the middle of the hole on the panel mounting flange. Otherwise, the product will not be able to move within the boundaries of the mounting grooves during compression or expansion of the material. Excessively strong attraction of the siding to the frame will lead to the same consequences.

The main thing when installing siding is to prevent excessively tight fit of the panels to the crate. If this rule is neglected, the strips of material will not be able to move freely in summer and winter, which will cause them to be twisted or even torn apart. Therefore, after mounting the panels, it is recommended to loosen the fastening a little. To do this, the screws should be unscrewed literally half a turn.

The above instructions are not entirely applicable to vertical siding. It is supposed to be fixed so that the first fastener falls on the upper region of the flange hole, and the second and all subsequent ones - on the centers of special holes.

Installation of vertical siding starts from the central part of the gable

After completing the sheathing of the attic with siding, soffit strips are mounted on the ledges of the roof.

Video: siding installation secrets

A fairly affordable way to update the facade is to use siding. Such material is affordable, has an attractive appearance, and working with it is quite simple, so even a beginner can handle the installation task.

In addition to the walls themselves, this finish can also be mounted on a gable or foundation. To do everything right and get the desired result, you need to figure out how to sheathe the gable with siding, what materials and in what quantity you will need.

This finishing material is a solid panel up to 6 m long and 10 to 30 cm wide. Each manufacturer has its own dimensions, so when choosing a finish it is better to purchase the required amount from one manufacturer. Due to the peculiarities of production, siding is a very durable material. By choosing it as a finish for the whole house, you can forget about the protection of external walls for a long time (approximately 50 years).

Several types of siding are used as sheathing for the pediment of the house. Their main difference is the material from which the panels are made.

Polyvinyl chloride. Sheathing is made of this material, called vinyl. This finish is very light, environmentally friendly, heat resistant and absolutely affordable, thanks to its low price. Manufacturers produce a variety of textures and colors. This is a good option for do-it-yourself gable siding. The material is easy to process and does not require additional strengthening of the base.
Aluminum and steel. Such an element will be called metallic. This finish will be stronger than the previous one. Does not fade in the sun, but costs a little more. The installation process will take a little longer, since the metal is more difficult to cut.
cement and cellulose fibres. This coating is quite heavy, so when choosing, you need to take into account the strength of the bearing surface and the foundation. If it is insufficient, then it will not be possible to do without strengthening. The price is significantly higher than the previous two options.

Material calculation

In order to qualitatively sew up the gable with siding, you should immediately purchase all the necessary elements and a sufficient number of panels. It is worth immediately clarifying that, having chosen panels from one manufacturer, you need to buy accessories from him.

Other manufacturers may have different sizes and even colors. When installing siding on a gable, it will be inconvenient to use elements of the wrong size, cut or compact them. This can adversely affect both the appearance and the reliability of the design.

If you need a large number of panels, then you should purchase them from one batch. Different deliveries, although slightly, may differ in color.
A more accurate amount of materials can be calculated by making a small drawing and measuring the gable.

In this case, the drawing will also help you choose places where it will be convenient to install edged pieces. When the pediment of the house is sheathed with siding, especially of a triangular shape, you cannot do without pieces. And by using them in less visible places, you can reduce the number of purchased panels.

In order for the pediment siding to go quickly, in addition to the panels themselves, you also need to buy:

wooden beam or metal profile for the frame;
insulation and waterproofing;
external and internal corners;
start and finish bars;
J-profile;
Soffits;
near-window plank, if there is a window with a slope on the pediment;
nails or screws for fastening.

Where to begin

Sheathing gables with siding is practically no different from the exterior decoration of other parts of the house. It all starts with preparing the foundation. All possible dirt and stains are removed.

If there are any cracks or holes, they need to be plastered. It is also important to say that vinyl panels can be mounted on a surface with differences that are no more than 5 mm. Therefore, in the presence of large irregularities, the surface is pre-leveled.

Particular attention should be paid to wooden surfaces. If rotten boards were found, they should definitely be replaced. If damaged elements remain under the finished surface, they can provoke the spread of rot deep into the insulation.

Siding installation

Almost always, manufacturers provide detailed installation instructions.

But the information in this article will also help you learn how to sheathe the front of the house with siding.

First you need to install the starting bars. They are mounted at the bottom of the pediment strictly horizontally; a building level is used for verification. Self-tapping screws are not screwed close to the bar, but leave a gap for expansion in the hot season. This also applies to nails. A distance of 5–7 mm must also be left between two adjacent elements due to the same reasons.
Next, install the inner corners along the roof slope. It is also necessary to leave a gap from the starting bar to the corner bar. The corners must be carefully processed (cut and sanded) so as not to spoil the appearance.
The window is trimmed with a J-profile if it is flush with the trim. If there is a slope, then a window-side bar is used, and a finishing bar is installed near the slope itself.
If joints of panels of different colors or textures are planned on the gable, then you need to install an H-bar. You can learn more about planks for siding in the article:.
Now mount the panels. They must first be cut to the shape of the pediment, it must be borne in mind that the element should not be tightly installed in the corner bar, there also needs a gap for expansion. The first panel is installed in the starting bar and tucked into the corner ones. Further, through the mounting holes with the help of self-tapping screws or nails, the part is attached to the frame. Subsequent elements are installed in the same way.
Before installing the last panel, you need to install the finishing bar. And fill it with the last element. For reliability, it can be fixed through with a nail.

The whole process of installing siding on a gable is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance, the main thing is to follow the instructions.

Any owner of a private house sooner or later begins to think about the need for external decoration of the pediment. As practice shows, siding is best suited for this. It is quite easy to install, so even a layman can handle it, guarantees the aesthetic appearance of the house, and also provides additional protection against moisture. In this article, we will talk about how to fix the siding to the front of the house.

Before proceeding with the choice of material for cladding the pediment, you need to understand what functions this element of the facade performs and why it is built? The pediment is the part of the house located between the slopes of the roof. Depending on the purpose of the under-roof space, the methods of building gables differ. So, if it is non-residential, then the height of the pediment can reach no more than 1 m. If you plan to make an attic, then its height will vary from 2 m and above. You also need to choose a finishing method from the purpose of the attic - whether it will be a separate room or a continuation of the walls. In the first case, laying heat and waterproofing is necessary.

fronton requirements:

Protection of the under-roof space from wind, precipitation and cold.
Ensuring the rigidity and strength of the roof.
Aesthetics.

Based on these requirements, many choose siding for finishing the pediment, since it is resistant to precipitation, does not fade in direct sunlight and provides an attractive appearance of the building.

To sew up the gable with siding, there is no need to carry out large-scale preparatory work. For this purpose, you can use both ordinary vinyl siding and basement, characterized by increased strength. A large selection of colors and textures allows you to realize any design idea and make the facade beautiful and original. You can install siding on absolutely any surface: brick, concrete, wood, stone. This is one of the most inexpensive, quick and easy ways to decorate the walls of a house.

Preparatory moments

Before installing the siding on the gable, the latter must be cleaned of the old top coat, remove dirt and dust. If the pediment is made of wood, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic and a deep penetration hydrophobic primer. The surface must be properly dried and leveled as far as possible. The allowable difference in height can be no more than 10 mm. Otherwise, the siding will quickly deform.

Mounting on a crate

If leveling the surface is too expensive or takes a lot of time, the siding is mounted on the crate. For example, in buildings of the old type, the outer surfaces of the walls are not even, therefore, in this case, the material should be attached only to the frame. This method has its advantages - the crate not only guarantees correct and high-quality installation, but also allows for additional wall insulation. Therefore, even if you are the happy owner of a house with perfectly even walls, but you plan to make a residential attic, it is better to make a frame and lay insulation under it.

The crate can be made of wood or metal. A metal frame is preferable for obvious reasons. It is not subject to rotting, more durable and durable. However, its cost can confuse economical owners, so many people prefer to build a wooden crate from unnecessary lumber or cheap softwood. But if opportunities allow, it is better to mount the frame from galvanized aluminum profiles. By the way, the same rack profiles are used to work with drywall. Products are much lighter than wood, so they do not carry a significant load on the foundation or walls of the house.

To fix the guide profiles to the gable, use only galvanized hangers. Install racks in 50-60 cm increments. Since the metal frame is stronger than wood, the pitch can be increased.

After installing the frame for insulating the attic or attic, it is necessary to lay waterproofing and insulation. Ideally, you must first cover the surface of the wall with a vapor barrier film, then with insulation, and then close everything with waterproofing. To insulate the pediment, the most common and cheap materials are suitable, for example, mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards. As a waterproofing, you can use a building dense film with a thickness of 200 microns.

Calculation of materials and fittings

Before you go to the store for siding, you need to calculate how much it will take for the gable. In addition to the material itself, you will need mounting hardware, which is best purchased from the same manufacturer. For the most accurate calculation, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the building in a convenient scale.

What accessories will be required to install the siding on the gable:

mounting strips;
J-profiles;
connecting H-profiles (it is not recommended to overlap them so that litter and water do not penetrate into the joints);
window profiles (if there are windows in the gable);
finish profiles.

You can attach the siding from the outside only with galvanized fasteners. Any others will quickly begin to rust and reduce all your efforts to zero.

Siding installation

As we have already said, despite the evenness of the walls, it is better to mount the siding on the crate. If the panels are installed horizontally, the batten elements must be fixed vertically, and vice versa. By the way, vertically located siding looks more familiar and visually makes the house taller. The installation step of the lathing slats is 30-40 cm.

Installation of starting J-profiles

If this is your first time facing a gable with siding, pay special attention to the installation of starting profiles. The subsequent work and the final result depend on the correctness of their installation. Take as much time as you need for this step.

Progress:

Arm yourself with a building level and find the lowest point on the frame. Step back from it up 5 cm and mark this place by screwing a self-tapping screw into it shallowly.
Moving along the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment, mark with self-tapping screws the points of attachment of the starting profiles. Pull the rope between the first and last fasteners and mark the border of the corner profiles on the laths of the crate. To do this, attach it to the corners of the frame and mark with a pencil.
As you move along the rope, maintain a 6 mm horizontal clearance from the corner profiles and attach the J-profiles to the frame. When installing, keep in mind that a gap of 10-12 mm must be left between the elements so that they do not come into contact with each other during temperature changes. Also, the distance must be left between the nail strips and profiles.
If you want, you can not make a distance of 6 mm, but simply shorten the nail strips so that during temperature fluctuations they do not reach the starting profile.

When mounting the starting profiles, constantly check their horizontalness with a building level! If the horizontal is broken, the siding will warp, and it will be very difficult to fix it.

External corner profiles

Before attaching the corner profiles, install or mark out the soffits so you can clearly see where their edges will run.

Progress:

Attach the profile to the corner of the frame in such a way as to leave about 3 mm between the roof or soffit. Fix the profile by screwing in a self-tapping screw in the upper part of the hole intended for this on both sides.
While the top end of the profile is 3mm from the soffit, its bottom edge should be 6mm lower than the starting element.
Make sure that strict verticality is observed, then fix the bottom part, and then screw in the remaining screws. In the corner profile, it is better to install fasteners not too often.
If the height of the pediment exceeds 3 m, and the length of the profile is not enough, then you will have to impose 2 profiles on top of each other. To do this, trim the top one so that there is a 9mm gap between the fasteners and a 25mm overlap. Places for building up profiles must be made at the same height for all rows.
Instead of a corner profile, you can use a couple of J-profiles, which will help save on work. However, this solution has a drawback - the waterproofing of the corner will not be so good, so it is better to additionally glue the wall under the profiles with waterproofing material.

Panel installation

So, when all the preparatory mounting elements are fixed, you can actually proceed to sheathing the gable with siding with your own hands. You need to put the first panel as carefully as the starting profiles, since the final result depends on it. It is best to start work from the most inconspicuous part of the pediment in order to practice and correct possible shortcomings in time.

How to sheathe a gable with siding:

Insert the panel into the keyholes of the start and corner profile. When doing this, do not forget that you need to leave a distance of 6 mm to the bottom of the lock of the corner element. As a result of temperature changes outside, the physical characteristics of the siding can change. So, in a cold winter, a solid panel can increase by as much as 18 mm. These gaps do not allow material movements to provoke the creation of waves and deformations of the surface. Once you've inserted the panel into the locks, attach it to the batten, but don't overtighten it. The shorter the panel length, the less changes it undergoes as a result of temperature fluctuations.
During installation, constantly check the levelness of the sheathed area every 3 rows.
If there is a window in the pediment, then when you reach the opening, measure and remove the excess part of the panel that falls into this opening. In this case, also take into account the double technological indent of 6 mm (6 mm on each side of the opening).
To securely fasten the panels, experts recommend using a special tool - a punch. Insert another finishing element into the lower trim of the opening, which will allow you to align the siding masonry in the plane as much as possible, since the depth of trimming of the elements directly depends on the height of the opening.
At the end of the installation under the roof, a finishing or J-profile must be attached. This work can be done at the beginning, before installing the starting bar.
Measure the distances at different locations between the key holes of the penultimate panel and the bottom of the lock of the finishing profile. Subtract 1-2 mm from this value (technological indent).
Then make a markup on a solid panel and cut off the top part on which the lock is located.
Using a punch, make "hooks" and bend to the outside on the top of the siding. Do "hooks" in increments of 20 cm.
Insert the shortened panel into the penultimate and

When finishing the facade, you will have to think about how to sheathe the gable with siding. Siding is a very relevant facade material, which today is the most used in low-rise construction. The main feature of siding is an excellent balance of price and quality. Among the owners of private houses, this material has also earned recognition for its simplicity and speed of installation. This article will tell you how to qualitatively finish the upper part of the building with your own hands.

A pediment is the front part of a building between two roof slopes and a cornice. The original purpose of its existence is to protect the roof from premature wear. Today, residential attic floors are often arranged in this part of the house, therefore, the pediment needs doubly protection. It may have a different shape.

Most often it looks like a triangle or a trapezoid, but it can be a multi-stage shape or even a semicircle. The size of this part of the house varies from half a meter to two meters in height if the attic space is not used as a living space, and more than two meters if living quarters are arranged there. The eye is always drawn to this part of the house, therefore, in addition to the protective properties, the finish should be aesthetic.

Unusual decoration of the pediment

Materials and tools for finishing the gable with siding

Siding coatings give the most beneficial effect in finishing. They can sheathe a house, including its gables, inexpensively and quickly. Compared to façade slabs, which may require special height fixtures to install, siding is easy to install alone. The most common types of siding are metal and vinyl panels. Each material has its pros and cons. You can choose any of them, as your finish will not be affected in any way. We list the main qualitative characteristics of vinyl and metal siding in comparison.

Comparative characteristics of vinyl and metal coating

Vinyl siding is made of PVC with the addition of additives to improve the quality of the material, and metal siding is made of metal with a polymer coating that adds protection to the metal profile. Each of them, with appropriate quality, has a warranty period of at least 30 years. Metal siding manufacturers give a guarantee of up to 50 years. During this period, the panels do not wear out and do not lose their properties.
Both materials do not allow moisture to pass through, which is very important for this part of the building.
Frost resistance is high for both vinyl and metal siding. The metal is higher, but this is understandable - PVC, if not properly handled or installed incorrectly, can crack in the cold. On the other hand, the pediment is high and is practically not subject to mechanical stress. Therefore, it can be considered that both materials are suitable for areas with low temperatures.
Susceptibility to temperature changes is the lowest in metal siding. But if you correctly perform the thermal expansion gaps during installation, then there will be no problems with vinyl. It does not deform during operation and will not crack.
Preservation of the original shade for the entire period of use, manufacturers promise two types of material.
The cost of steel siding is slightly higher, but it pays off with a long service life.

Do-it-yourself gable siding

There are two things to think about before making a decision. Metal is still heavier. The panel weighs up to 4 kg. Mounting it alone to a height will be a little more difficult than mounting vinyl elements. Another feature concerns PVC panels, they do not burn, but melt at a temperature of 500 degrees.

Whatever material you choose to finish the part of the house between the slopes of the roof, any will have its advantages.

The pediment sheathed with siding will be reliably protected from moisture and wind.
It's nice and neat.
This finish does not require constant care.
She will not cost you a pretty penny.

Calculation of wall panels

The calculation can be entrusted to a calculator or managers who will sell you the material, but some measurements must be taken in any case:

For a gable roof, it is necessary to measure the height and width of the surface;
For a multi-pitched mansard roof, we measure: the width of the roof, the height to each fracture and the width between them, we also need the height from the fracture to the ridge.

Measuring the number of siding parts

If you want to do the calculation yourself, then it is done like this:

For the first type, the width must be multiplied by the height and divided by 2.
For the attic, arithmetic is a little more complicated. You need to add the width of the roof to the width between the fractures and divide by 2. Now multiply by the height before the fracture. We will make the following calculation by multiplying the width between the fractures by the height to the ridge, and multiply the product by 2. Now add the two values obtained and get the surface area that will need to be sheathed.

Types of additional elements for sheathing

For full cladding, to finish every corner and fold of the surface, you will need additional parts. Their number and names will depend on the type of roof. The easiest way is to take a picture of the pediment and show it to the specialists of the company that will sell the finish. If in doubt, ask the finishing company. Perhaps everything will become clear to you after studying the installation instructions that we provide in this article. Types of additional or decorative elements can be seen in the figure, which shows an approximate installation of siding with a gable roof.

A set of tools and auxiliary materials for cladding

In addition to the required amount of siding, you will need a classic set of tools for installing vinyl or metal siding. This is a hacksaw with fine teeth, a screwdriver, a knife-cutter, metal shears, a level, coated twine, a plumb line, a ruler and a square, a drill. It is possible that you will need a punch to make additional holes in the material, because you cannot screw fasteners directly into the part. Of the fasteners, self-tapping screws of different lengths may be required, but not less than 35 mm and not less than 8 mm in diameter. If the walls are brick or concrete, then you will need a dowel - nails. To fix heat-insulating plates, purchase fasteners with large hats - “fungi”.

The siding is laid on the crate, so you need to calculate and buy material for it. It can be wooden bars or a galvanized metal profile for outdoor use. You will need brackets to install the frame on the wall. And finally, the heater. It is worth buying a high-quality heat insulator, it can be polyurethane foam or mineral wool. The number of slabs is necessary based on surface area calculations.

Standard set of tools

Installation sequence

Surface preparation

Work on preparing the surface for installation is quite familiar. Clear the wall of old finishes if the house is not new. Not only the old skin must be removed, but also the protruding parts. For example, if there are windows, then dismantle the platbands and ebbs on them. Possible balconies must be cleaned and swept from debris, and cashing is removed on the doors.

Stone walls do not need to be leveled, but it is advisable to go through a special primer that will protect against mold, stone destruction and other troubles. The tree must be cleaned and impregnated with an antiseptic and soil for the tree.

Manufacturing of crates

Now let's start assembling the frame. This is done from a wooden beam 40x60 mm or a little more, for example, 50x70 mm. The tree is cut to size and impregnated with an antiseptic. It is better to cover the bars with drying oil, then the crate will last longer without rotting. Installation is carried out using fasteners that match the material of the walls. Mounting directly to the wall or on brackets is possible. When fixing the planks, use the building level.

Advice! Never use old boards to make a frame. The tree must be clean, dry, so that it does not change size after installation. On the surface of the bars there should be no rot and blackness.

Vertical framing device

Instead of a wooden block, a metal profile made of galvanized steel is used. If you are going to attach light vinyl siding, then an aluminum drywall profile is allowed - it is lightweight and does not carry a load on the facade and foundation. The metal frame will last longer, it does not need additional processing and is lighter than wood. True, it is more expensive, but it is compensated by the duration of use.

The grate can be installed vertically if the siding is with horizontal fasteners.

If you are going to install vertical siding or make a mixed finish of horizontal and vertical siding, then the grating needs to be made horizontal or mixed, respectively.

Horizontal framing device

Warming

Thermal insulation can be of two types, it all depends on the use of the attic space. If there is a living room, then the insulation must be made complete and of high quality. For this, foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool slabs are used. It is best to mount mineral wool. This is a modern insulation that breathes and perfectly protects the premises from noise and cold. In summer, mineral wool boards protect from heat, which is very important for the roof structure.

Thermal insulation is laid between the battens of the crate, and fasteners are made on the "fungi". A windscreen must be placed on top. It will be an additional protective layer for the material of walls and interior rooms.

After installation, mineral wool must be covered with wind protection using staples.

Step-by-step guide to finishing the gable with siding

Now it's time to start installing the siding elements.

We begin work with the installation of the starting profile at the base of the roof. This is one of the most critical steps in the entire installation. The rest of the process depends on how smoothly the starting bar is screwed. If the skew goes, then all the panels will be installed unevenly and not only the aesthetics will suffer, but also the integrity of the facade. Do not be lazy, always check the level when you screw this element. When screwing any part, try to maintain an ideal vertical, as even a small bevel can lead to the destruction of the entire skin or a crack in the panel.

Important! Never screw fasteners all the way in. You should always leave 1.5-2 mm for thermal expansion.

Proper siding installation

Framing the gable with siding panels should be done taking into account thermal expansion

On the pediment there are details that are almost always made of wood and need protection - these are wind boards. For their sheathing, there is a siding additional element - a chamfer. The sequential process of finishing the wind boards is well shown in the figure.

Making wind boards with a chamfer

It should be noted once again that we must not forget about the thermal expansion of materials. Before installation, be sure to take the siding elements outside for several hours. Sheathing the gable with siding is still high-altitude work. Protect yourself from falling with a reliable ladder, and possibly a climbing belt.

Video: Instructions for sheathing the gable with siding panels

Now you know how to sheathe the gable with siding and you can do it efficiently and beautifully. The main thing is to follow the sequence of work and installation tips.

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Completely, but also, for example, during the construction of the roof of a brick house or any other, lined with bricks (from blocks, timber, frame). The siding of the pediment with a tide looks especially beautiful. It is this case that we will consider.

Finishing the gable with siding- the matter, in principle, is not tricky and you can do it yourself. It is better to do the work together: one works at the top and is directly engaged in sheathing, the second at the bottom cuts the material and feeds it.

It is very important to establish reliable scaffolding at the beginning of work. The more confident you feel on them, the easier it will be to work. Of course, it’s good when it is possible to use prefabricated ready-made scaffolding (for example, frame scaffolding), but when they are not, you have to show your imagination and build scaffolding from the boards at hand.

I want to note right away that in this example we are sheathing the gable of an uninsulated roof, which is made like a cold attic. When finishing the pediment of the mansard roof, the rooms under which are heated, there are some differences, which I will definitely mention.

So, we have a house, which will subsequently be faced with bricks. The roof is practically ready. The roof is made of metal tiles. The gable overhangs and cornices are sheathed with siding only from the end sides. The frontal ebb is not yet covered with metal tiles.

First of all, at the base of the pediment, we install the so-called abutment bar. To do this, we put a sheet of metal tiles under it and after cutting off the corner on the top shelf with metal scissors, we fasten the bar with self-tapping screws (for example, with a press washer). Enough 3 pieces per bar. Then we move the metal tile sheet and fix the next plank with a slight overlap (2-3 cm). So to the end.

We do not fasten sheets of metal tiles immediately, because they will interfere with subsequent work. As long as the pediment tide is not covered with iron, scaffolding can be attached to it, you can get up on it, and in the end, you can simply get hurt with the sharp edge of the metal tile.

I will make a small digression. As I already mentioned, the attic space in this example is unheated, so we make the siding sheathing directly on the boards without a frame and without using a vapor-permeable windproof film (membrane).

One inner corner (its length is 3 meters) is usually not enough for the entire length of the gable overhang. How to make the joints of the elements is shown in the photographs below. In order, from left to right, it is shown: 1) and 2) - how to perform a sidecut and a joint of adjacent internal corners; 3) 4) and 5) - how to cut and join the inner corners at the top of the gable.

Next, you can immediately sew up the gable overhangs with siding. And I want to note that it is not necessary to use soffit (perforated siding) in this case. For ventilation of the under-roof space, the soffit must be used when finishing the eaves from below. Through the gable overhangs under the roof, air practically does not circulate.

I usually measure the required length of siding panels as follows: insert the end of the tape measure into the inner corner and measure the distance to the outer edge of the outer corner. We add 5-10 mm to this distance. It is easier to mount the siding by first inserting one end into the outer corner, and then bending the panel slightly to fill the second end into the inner corner. This sequence is due to the fact that the outer corner usually has a deeper groove than the inner one.

Do not forget that in the cold season, siding becomes brittle and it becomes quite difficult to sheathe cornices with it. So that it does not break, the panels must be stored and cut warm.

So we cut the first panel at the required angle and fix it by controlling its position with a 90 ° square, applying it, for example, to the outer corner and to the panel itself. Then we insert the next panel, and so on. up to the top.

Sometimes a piece of H-rail or an internal corner is installed at the upper junction of the gable overhangs. We usually don't put anything in there. We just bend the topmost panel from one overhang and wind it up to another overhang by 2-3 cm so that the gap is not visible. What happens is shown in the photo below ...

Now we go directly to the pediment itself. First, set the start profile. It can be purchased directly from the store, or you can do without it. For example, in this case, we used the waste left after sheathing the ends of the cornices and gable overhangs. Their color doesn't matter. We just cut off everything superfluous and leave only the lock (see photo).

You need to fix the start profile so that later the first panel snaps freely behind it. To do this, during installation, we simply use any piece of siding, slipping our cheek under the starting profile (this is directly shown in the photo).

Again, I want to note that such a window installation is possible only when we have a cold attic. If the premises are residential and heated, the windows must be sunk at least 12-15 cm deep so that the window does not freeze through and make external slopes (this is required by plastic window manufacturers). In this case, instead of the J-profile, a near-window profile is used. You can do without a profile at all: just make external slopes, and close the joint between them and the siding with plastic corners.

So, we perform cutting of cashings at an angle of 45°, and in each corner joint the lower profile is made with a tongue (about 1 cm), and the upper profile is without a tongue. What happens is shown in the photo below ...

The ebb of the plastic window in the photo above is not shown. It is better to install it after the complete finishing of the pediment.

The next step is the installation of H-profiles. You must choose the places for their installation yourself, depending on the shape and size of the pediment and windows. You need to try to make sure that there are fewer scraps left, and that it looks decent.

As I said in my previous articles, we do not join overlapping siding panels without H-profiles and do not advise you. The joint eventually becomes clogged with dirt and after a couple of years it will be clearly visible. It doesn't look pretty to say the least.

After all the elements are installed, we proceed to the direct installation of the panels. So, they need to be cut at a certain angle.

To determine this angle, we make a template using any two pieces of the panel as shown in the photo. It is convenient to make two templates at once: one left, the other right. The process of further sheathing of the pediment, I think, is generally obvious.

The main thing is that the panels should be able to move freely left and right within 1 cm. I talked about this in and I will not repeat myself.

When all the panels are installed, it remains only to fix the sheets of metal tiles on the ebb of the gable.

That's basically it. Of course, I am sure that some builders do some things differently and in a different sequence. I just talked about how we do.

If you want to do the work with your own hands, try and you will succeed. Good luck!