Brick gates. Important nuances and features of the choice of materials in the manufacture of a fence with brick pillars. Bricks with decorative properties for facing pillars

Brick in low-rise construction will always be in demand. Even in cases where the house is built of aerated or foam concrete, many people choose facing bricks for the exterior decoration of the facade. It is also widely used in the construction of fences. Most often used for poles and plinth in combined fences, but those who want to get a "fortress house" build a brick fence completely.

Capital brick fence Source besplatka.ua

Pros and cons of a brick fence

The advantages of a brick fence, subject to quality materials and compliance with construction technology, have the following list:

Solidity and solidity. Technologies are changing, other materials are appearing, and brick and buildings made from it do not lose their attractiveness for connoisseurs of the traditional style in architecture and landscape design.
Reliability and strength. According to the degree of protection of the site, the brick fence has no competitors. Its resistance to mechanical stress is no worse than that of forged or welded fences, but they are “transparent” for prying eyes and are easy to overcome. Fences made of corrugated board have blind spans, but in terms of strength, a thin steel sheet (0.45-0.5 mm) cannot be compared with masonry in one brick 250 cm thick.
Durability. The only competitor in terms of service life is concrete, but it must be additionally “decorated” to make the fence attractive. There are also cast iron fences, but they are more good on the embankment or in the city square, and not around a private plot. Steel is subject to corrosion, and even with a protective coating of zinc and polymer paint, this process is simply delayed in time.

With proper installation, a brick fence is one of the most durable and unpretentious in operation Source pinterest.se

unpretentiousness. The only responsibility for maintenance is to ensure that fungus does not form on the north side or in a shaded and poorly ventilated place (but this is a "disease" of all mineral building materials and wood).
Protection against wind and road dust. Of course, these effects are not completely blocked, but their influence is significantly reduced.

There is such a fence and disadvantages. But they are purely economic in nature:

High pricepiece material. Especially foreign production.
High costs to pay builders. Building a brick fence is almost like building a box of a small house with the same area of load-bearing walls.
The need for arranging a strip foundation throughout the brick wall.

Types of brick

For the construction of the fence, different types of bricks are used. And they often use the type that they chose for building or facing a house:

Ordinary ceramic brick. The price of one starts from 5 rubles. It has low decorative properties and is rarely used in the construction of fences - only for plastering or tiling.

Fence made of "classic" ordinary brick Source aviarydecor.com

Facing brick for fence. Among ceramic bricks, it is next in value after the ordinary one. And the most popular in the construction of fences. The price of one lies in the range from 8 to 17 rubles.

Construction of a brick fence Source: stroidom.info

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of building fences and fences. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Clinker. Another type of ceramic brick, but from more refractory clay. Due to the characteristics of raw materials and high-temperature firing, its strength is one of the highest among the building blocks. For a domestic manufacturer, the cost of a single brick starts from 20 rubles. Facing clinker from Europe can cost up to 90 rubles. a piece.

Clinker fence Source nadoremont.com

hand molded. According to technology, this is a classic ceramic brick, but as a handmade product it is expensive. And in order to justify the high price, manufacturers are trying to compensate for its original texture. The piece cost is on average twice as high as that of clinker, but other size standards (smaller ones) are found here, so the cost per square meter of masonry can be 3-4 times higher.

A fence made of hand-molded bricks looks very impressive Source sweetkiyson.net

silicate brick. Due to the almost perfect surface, this type of ordinary building block can be used as a facing one, although there is also a brick with an improved surface. The usual "white" silicate brick for the fence will cost from 7 rubles, the front one - 10-20% more expensive, you will have to pay the same amount for the color. The most expensive is silicate brick with a chipped surface - from 20 rubles. a piece. In the photo below, a white brick fence with additional stone trim.

Light silicate brick fence with additional stone trim Source stroitelcentr.ru

hyperpressed. Its composition differs from silicate brick in that cement is used instead of lime. And according to the production technology, it is hard concrete of semi-dry pressing. It has other formats, and if we compare the prices per square meter, then with a smooth surface it will cost like an expensive facing brick, and with a chipped one - 2 times more expensive. This type is rarely used, more often they choose decorative concrete blocks for poles and fences.

A fence made of hyperpressed bricks requires high skill of a mason

Types of brick fences

If we talk about "pure" brick fences, then they can be classified according to the thickness of the masonry. And this division makes sense when it comes to standard building block formats. For example, laying in "half a brick", "one brick" or "one and a half bricks" implies a wall thickness of 12 cm, 25 cm or 38 cm.

Note! The thickness of the masonry in the "bricks" is a multiple of a spoon (brick length) of a single format (1NF) - 250 mm, and not a poke (brick width) (120 mm). When using other formats, including European ones, an individual approach is needed to calculate the thickness and calculate the required quantity.

In the construction of fences, two masonry options are most common - in "half-brick" and in "brick".

The choice depends on priorities;

In "half-brick". The most economical masonry. The strength of the fence is considered sufficient, provided that its height is not more than 2 m, and the distance between the posts is 2.5 m.
In "brick". The optimal type of fence in terms of strength and consumption of bricks.

The thickness of the masonry brick fences Source dp32.ru

It is not advisable to make the fence around a private house thicker, “one and a half bricks” - more costs for materials and work, a stronger foundation, and with a relatively small masonry height and the presence of supporting pillars, the span strength is excessive.

Technology Fundamentals

The construction of a brick fence combines two construction technologies - pillars and spans, which differ in the type of masonry (bandaging methods). But regardless of their configuration, the sequence of work has a strict sequence. And at the first stage, the foundation is poured:

Planning a site. The marking is carried out taking into account the dimensions of the pillars and the layout of the building blocks in the span - its length should be a multiple of the size of a spoon (plus the thickness of the vertical seams). In the usual dressing of masonry on a brick floor, every second row should end with the second half of the block from which it began.
Perform earthworks. A monolithic strip foundation for a fence can have a different profile in depth - it depends on the nature of the soil and the design load. Under the pillars, a base is made with a heel below the freezing level of the soil; for spans, they can be limited to a depth of 50-60 cm.

One of the options for the foundation for a brick fence Source stroim-dom.radiomoon.ru

Formwork is installed and reinforcement is carried out. For pouring concrete, the most common removable formwork made of edged boards or wooden panels is used. When reinforcing the base for the pole, a three-dimensional frame is usually used with a steel pipe extended to the height of the fence. The tape under the span is reinforced with a frame of four rods of longitudinal reinforcement with a strapping of transverse and longitudinal bars of a smaller diameter (the main task of the armored belt is to accept fracture loads).
Pouring concrete. The fence, although stone, belongs to light buildings - the M200 brand is enough.

In terms of total costs, the cost of manufacturing a monolithic foundation for a fence starts from 4000 rubles / m 3.

After the concrete has cured, the pillars are built. In the section - this is a well masonry in one and a half or two bricks around the pipe. The empty space that remains inside is filled with mortar as the pillar is erected. For combined fences, embedded elements are mounted for mounting crossbars; for purely brick fences, such elements are needed for fastening gates and gates.

Video description

Visually about the foundations for a brick fence, see the video:

The total cost of one pillar with a height of 2.5 m starts from 12,000 rubles. - taking into account the foundation (depth from 1.5 m), mortar, concrete or steel cap, domestic single facing brick at a price of up to 15 rubles. a piece.

After the erection of the pillars, spans are laid out between them. The first row is first laid out “dry” to adjust the thickness of the vertical seams. Then the span is filled with bricks in the dressing, using a template to form the seams. The cost of laying a span in half a brick is from 650 rubles / m2.

After setting the masonry mortar, jointing is carried out, and a brick is laid on top or a ready-made parapet is installed.

Video description

Clearly about the construction of a brick fence in the video:

Video description

65 ideas for a beautiful brick fence, see the following video:

Conclusion

Brick fence is one of the most complex and costly type of fence. It is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to correct errors in the calculation of the foundation and pillars - this is not a light fence made of mesh or plastic. Making such a fence with your own hands is like laying out a brick wall at home, and professionals should do this work. The task of the customer is to choose the type of brick and the design of the fence - there are different options for color combinations, the use of shaped elements to create an architectural decor, decorating parapets of spans and pillars with forged accessories.

Without a beautiful fence, the landscape of the site and the buildings located on it lose their attractiveness.

Aesthetics is an important, but not the only function of the estate fencing. Strength and durability are the key conditions necessary to create a high-quality fence design.

It is necessary to decide on the option of fencing before the start of construction, because each of its parts - the foundation, pillars, sections are closely interconnected with each other.

Let us explain this fact with a simple example. Let's say you poured a concrete foundation under a fence with brick pillars, and then realized it and decided to reinforce them with reinforcement. Time has been lost, since it will be impossible to install the frame into the set concrete without destroying the integrity of the “tape”.

If you planned to enclose the site with a mesh, and later changed your mind and chose corrugated board to fill the sections, then nothing good will come of it. A large sail of the steel sheet under a strong wind load will cause the deformation of the fence.

In our article, we will talk about how to make brick pillars for a fence with our own hands, observing all the stages of technology. In this case, the fence will be as durable and aesthetic as possible.

Fence construction using brick pillars

Without a reliable connection with the foundation, a brick pillar, despite its solid weight, will not stand idle for a long time. A powerful wind load, acting on solid sections of the fence, inevitably leads to the overturning of the column, which is not fixed in the foundation. In addition, do not forget about seasonal ground movements. Falling and rising a couple of centimeters up and down during the year, the foundation must work in conjunction with the posts and sections of the fence.

The optimal design of the foundation with brick pillars, designed for a corrugated fence, is clearly illustrated by diagram No. 1.

As can be seen from this diagram, a steel rod made of a square pipe or a reinforcing cage is installed in brick columns. Embedded plates are welded to it. Steel purlins are attached to them under a profiled sheet or picket fence.

Foundation type - strip rubble concrete or concrete. A trench is dug under it, and pits with a diameter of 15-20 cm are drilled at the places where the pillars are installed. First, concrete is poured into wells with pillar racks installed in them. After that, layer-by-layer concreting of the trench begins.

The main parameters of the foundation (laying depth, width, degree of reinforcement) and the height of the fence are determined by calculating the strength and stability.

In a simplified version, tested in practice, the following sizes can be recommended:

trench depth - 20-30 cm;
the depth of the well for the installation of metal racks of brick pillars, counting from the surface of the earth - 90-100 cm;
the height of the grillage (the upper part of the foundation, located above the surface of the earth) - 40-60 cm;
foundation width - 20-35 cm;
the distance between the pillars is from 2.5 to 3 meters;
the height of the pillars is from 150 to 180 cm (the cross section of the masonry is 38x38 cm).

In wet soils, it is necessary to drill holes for racks below the freezing depth so that frost heaving forces do not deform the fence.

In weak and unstable soils, in the upper part of the foundation, before concreting it, it is advisable to lay a reinforcing cage of 4-6 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm. It will preserve the integrity of the foundation and perceive the loads that occur in concrete during subsidence of the soil.

The laying of brick pillars begins no earlier than 2-3 weeks after concreting. Having laid waterproofing under the posts, you can get to work.

Smooth seams are a guarantee of an excellent appearance of brick columns. Experienced masons use pieces of a square bar to simplify the work, which serves as a seam template (photo No. 2)

Photo No. 2 Square steel bar - a template for laying a column

In the photo we see a fence under construction with brick pillars with a section of 38x38 cm. Two reinforcing bars are installed inside for reinforcement. The space between them and the masonry is filled with fine-grained concrete or mortar.

For fences with a height of two or more meters, the size of the section of the column is increased to 51x63 cm or 64x77 cm. Accordingly, the dimensions of the reinforcing frame increase.

In order to firmly connect the masonry with the concrete filling of the frame, some builders use a reinforcing mesh, running it inside the column by 3-5 cm (after 2-3 rows).

The choice of brick for pillars and material for fence sections

Choosing a brick for pillars, each developer proceeds from personal ideas about beauty. However, here the practical side of the issue plays a big role. The usual smooth facing brick has not proven itself in such designs in the best way.

After a few seasons, it begins to crumble and lose particles of the outer layer. This fact is partly due to the negligence of the owners, who do not cover the poles with reliable caps. Part of the fault lies with manufacturers who are not able to make quality material.

More resistant to precipitation and frost textured brick for pillars, called "rock". A compromise option, both aesthetic and reliable, is a combination of the two types of bricks mentioned (photo No. 4).

In the photo, we see the rational combination of the fence grillage with its finish. Brick here performs a dual role: formwork for concrete and a decorative layer.

The design of the pillars for the gate and the gate has no fundamental differences from ordinary sections. To install heavy swing gates made of metal, the cross section of the reinforcing cage or pipe-rack is increased. In this case, the embedded plates must be taken thicker and wider so that the pivot joints do not tear them off the racks (photo No. 5).

Photo No. 5 Embedded part of the post with a plate for hanging the gate and a plate for the automation engine

The front gates of the estate are often crowned with decorative lamps, and also supplemented with automation and intercom. Intending to do this, do not forget to lay a corrugated cable with a wire in the masonry.

Having decided to make brick pillars with your own hands from beginning to end, decide in advance on the material to fill the sections. Among the most common options are steel profiled sheet, forging, picket fence and unedged board.

The most expensive, but at the same time the most elegant option is forged gratings (photo No. 7).

Photo No. 7 Forged lattice on brick pillars

The combination of brick with natural stone and forging is no less aesthetic and durable (photo No. 8).

What is a good combination of three materials? In it, each element contributes to the overall look. The grate can be ordered with a minimum area. It will perfectly fulfill the role of a decorative accent.

Photo No. 9 shows a not very successful example of a combination of brick with forging and corrugated board.

Having opened a part of the fence due to the forged grating, the owner for some reason decided to close it again by placing a sheet of flooring in the opening. The result was a ridiculous and strange combination.

Brick and wood are perfectly combined in any design, helping to create an inexpensive and beautiful fence (photo # 10).

A picket fence or a board in a section can be mounted not only vertically, but also horizontally (by overlapping).

The metal picket fence is growing in popularity. It is several times more durable than wood, and looks no worse (photo No. 12).

An obligatory structural element is caps on brick pillars. Without them, the material will not last long. Moisture, freezing in a brick, will destroy it. There are two types of caps on the market - metal and concrete.

The choice of material for protective caps is purely individual. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the metal on the pole will last longer than concrete, which is less resistant to frost and moisture.

Estimated cost of brick pillars

When calculating the budget required for the construction of brick pillars, you should determine the total cost of materials and work (in the case of hiring a team). We will not provide you with an exact calculation, since there may be several masonry options. Estimated cost is a more realistic approach to estimating a project.

Consider a fence with brick pillars (height 2 meters, section 38x38 cm). The cost of laying one pillar, taking into account materials (face brick, mortar, pipe, metal cap), will be from 8,500 rubles.

In terms of 1 running meter of such a fence (filling the sections with a profiled sheet, the distance between the posts is 3 meters), the turnkey price will be from 7,000 rubles. This amount includes the installation of gates and gates. When doing all the work on your own, the cost of the fence will decrease by an average of 35-40%.

When arranging a suburban area, it is necessary to ensure the safety of property and people living in the house. To do this, a reliable fence is being built. Not only its strength and durability are important, but also the correct installation of the posts under the fence.

Installation of poles from various materials

When deciding which fence posts to use, it is necessary to focus on two main parameters - the resistance of the structure to external weather conditions and its overall strength. But we should not forget about another parameter - the complexity of the installation procedure itself.

Installation of wooden poles

Made from solid logs, such poles will be quite expensive, especially if they are high-quality hardwood samples. Pine, mulberry, oak and larch have the best properties in terms of resistance to natural factors and the effects of mold and fungi.

Pine and fir are also used in the production of pillars. But birch, aspen, beech or alder are not used. In addition, before installation, wooden poles must be treated with an antiseptic and burned to the charring stage. It is advisable to use such supports for wooden fences.

If you decide to use wooden supports, then you need to choose them with a diameter of at least 150 mm, for an intermediate installation you can take 100 mm.

They are treated with a solution of copper sulfate or other antiseptic, and the lower edge is treated with resin, followed by coating with roofing material. Oil painting will also be useful. And you need to install with the orientation of the top down.

Pits are drilled with a diameter that is twice the size of the support. At a ground height of 1.5 m, the depth should be at least 0.5 m. Remember, for strength, you need to deepen at least a third of the length of the entire support.

Before installing the post, you should equip a drainage cushion from a layer of crushed stone or expanded clay. After a strictly vertical installation, the pit is covered with rubble and fragments of bricks. In the process of work, mandatory tamping is carried out.

The strength of the fastening can be ensured by the use of metal sleeves with a diameter smaller than the size of the column. A wooden log is inserted into a metal tube.

Metal constructions

Such supports are not only distinguished by versatility, applicability for various types of fence, but also by high strength. This is a durable material, but pipes must be treated with anti-corrosion agents. Regular staining is also required.

There are two types of supports:

hollow welded round shape;
from a metal profile with a square section.

The optimal diameter of the pillars will be 60 mm with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The strength of the material ensures the resistance of the fence to loads of various types, including wind. For installation, concreting methods are used, or the supports are driven into the ground.

It is advisable to install fence posts by concreting in areas with sandy soil, and also if the soil is prone to heaving. Two technologies are used:

a hole is drilled with a size slightly larger than the diameter of the support, then a pole is placed, and the gap between it and the walls of the pit is filled with concrete;
after drilling the hole, concrete is placed in it, and only then the support is placed vertically, providing a stronger fixation.

If the site has heavy dense soil or you plan to use a fairly light fence structure, then you can use the technology of driving in supports.

The holes must be drilled first. But their diameter should be less than the size of the pillars. Then, with a sledgehammer, the supports are driven into the holes.

The skew can be eliminated with sledgehammer blows. To simplify the installation procedure, you can use poles with a helical spiral to be screwed into the ground.

Asbestos-cement and concrete fasteners

Asbestos-cement supports are a durable, but expensive option for arranging fences. Moreover, if water enters the empty space of the pipes, then there is a risk of rupture. Also, this material is not used with all types of fences.

The concrete structure will be very heavy, but these supports are strong, reliable and durable, as they are not affected by most environmental factors. Due to their weight and high price, they are rarely used - mainly for very massive structures.

Asbestos-cement pipes, as a rule, are taken with a diameter of 120 mm. For a two-meter column, a depth of at least 800 mm is required. The lower part of the pit must be made with an extension, which must first be filled with concrete. Roofing material is used to insulate the walls. Moreover, the insulating material should protrude outward by 150-200 mm.

Around the ground part of the roofing material, a formwork made of wood is equipped, and then the pit begins to be poured with concrete. A bracket in the form of a metal rod is inserted into the solution until it solidifies completely.

The length of the pin must be less than the length of the support. An asbestos-cement pipe is vertically strung on it, and the cavity inside is filled with a concrete solution. At the top, they make a rounded hat-roof for draining water.

Installation of brick pillars

This is an outwardly attractive design, but installation requires strict adherence to technology. Be sure to equip the foundation for the load.

To install fence posts with your own hands, you need to lay a tape-type foundation. To do this, they dig a trench, and brick fragments are placed in it. Concrete is poured on top.

For a pillar in the place of its subsequent installation, a frame is arranged in the form of reinforcement from metal rods or pipes. Roofing material is laid on top of the foundation. Brickwork is carried out around the frame. The inner cavity must be filled with concrete.

Along the perimeter of the future fence, it is necessary to install stakes in place of the supports and pull the rope. The placement of the pegs must be strictly aligned. The distance between the pillars is up to 3 m, and for heavy structures no more than 2.5 m. For extreme, corner supports, pipes of a larger diameter are selected. So you will ensure the stability of the structure before the load.

First you need to sequentially install the corner posts, check their compliance in height with a level. From below and from above, twine is pulled between the posts. It will help you evenly place the intermediate supports.

More complex installation will be with a height difference in the area of more than 250 mm. In this case, it is necessary to install additional supports and equip a stepped structure. In places of fencing where it is planned to install a gate or gate, it is necessary to install additional poles for greater reliability.

Checking the structure vertically is carried out by the level without fail. So you get the right fence, as shown in the photo of the fence posts. The fastening of the fence itself must begin no earlier than 3-5 days from the moment of concreting.

Particularly dangerous are areas with heaving soil or high water levels. In this case, it is possible for the supports to be pushed out of the soil over time, or their putrefactive and corrosive destruction.

If you are faced with a groundwater problem, then you need to dig a trench or drill a hole deeper, i.e. below the water level. In this case, you will need to prepare a much larger volume of solution.

Experts also recommend building a high-quality drainage cushion. Crushed stone with expanded clay with a layer of at least 200 mm is laid in the pits. Then a pillar is placed, and the gap in the pit is covered with gravel. But not completely, but with a shortage of 150 mm. Concrete is poured on top of the pillow to ground level.

You can install a fence on the territory of a country house yourself. To do this, you need to choose supports that match the material of the fence, and then install them, guided by our simple instructions.

Photo of fence posts

At the stage of calculations and design of the future brick fence, each owner faces the question of choosing the material for its manufacture. The model brick range is quite extensive, and you can choose the most suitable product only after considering in detail the features of each.

What is this article about

Types of bricks according to manufacturing technology

For the construction of fences, several types of bricks are used, made using different technologies from various mixtures. They differ in technical characteristics:

Water absorption;
Strength;
Frost resistance;
As well as the variety of textures and type of coloring.

Ceramic

The basis is red clay, so the products are obtained in the appropriate shades. Bricks are made by one of 2 methods - semi-dry pressing, plastic molding.

From the specifications:

The tensile strength is quite high - up to 175 kg / cm2;
Frost resistance - up to 50 cycles;
Moisture absorption coefficient - 7%.

Clinker

Strength - up to 500 kg/cm2;
Moisture absorption - 7%.

Cons - expensive mortars are used during masonry. Variety of shades in different batches.

Silicate

Silicate - made from quartz, lime and mineral fillers.

Strength - up to 250kg/cm2;
Moisture absorption - can reach 12%;
Frost resistance - 60 cycles.

Of the minuses - high moisture absorption, when creating it, shaped molding is not used.

hyperpressed

Hyperpressed - from the name it is clear what is the technology of its manufacture. The principle lies in such a dense molding of raw materials, in which all its components are reliably connected to each other. The basis is cement, dyes and mineral fillers (limestone, marble, shell rock, screenings, and so on). Such a brick can have a wide range of shaped models.

Strength - up to 300-400 kg / cm2;
Water absorption - up to 7%;
Frost resistance - not less than 70 cycles.

Cons - a large weight of products, high cost.

The characteristics of different types of bricks may vary depending on the raw materials from which they are made, the amount of certain additives, including dye.

Full or hollow

Solid Hollow

Among other things, brick blocks are divided into:

Monolithic;
Void.

For facing pillars, hollow facing blocks are most often chosen, for the main fence module - full-bodied.

Bricks with decorative properties for facing pillars

A variety of textures of facing (decorative) bricks allows you to create spectacular designer ornaments on the facade of fences, lay out columns, pillars, arches and other elements in a variety of architectural styles.

This material has an interesting texture, visually, it is very similar in appearance to natural rock, marble or even wood, and in addition, it can create the effect of aged, rough, glass surfaces.

Rusticated and chipped bricks

For embossed bricks, the basis is most often a hyper-pressed or silicate product made of limestone, quartz sand, shell rock, cement, as well as marble, dolomite flour with the addition of coloring pigment.

The texture is created by cleaving the outer face of the finished brick, on specialized equipment resembling a guillotine. This is how blanks for rusticated bricks are made, then, depending on the type of finished product, it is subjected to further processing. So, for example, to create the effect of a “torn” surface, additional spoon or bonder chips are carried out on the machine, for waves or random “wrinkles” - longitudinal sections and bevels. Each manufacturer comes up with the name himself, therefore, in fact, the same texture can be called differently - torn, chipped, rock, etc.

Wild stone (with inclusions) Rock Marbled
Ragged (chipped)

Shotcrete

This texture is typical for clinker bricks. To create it, mineral chips are applied to the outer part of the material, and then the product is fired to sinter it with the surface.

However, the facade of the fence usually "collects" a large amount of dust, which is very problematic to clean from shotcrete bricks.

Engobing

Products are coated with a layer of liquid ceramics (1 mm), by pouring or spraying, and then fired. With the help of engobe, bricks are created that imitate old masonry, materials with spectacular color transitions.

Engobe, the coating is very fragile, it is easy to scratch, chip, therefore, although such bricks are used for fences, they are extremely rare.

Figured bricks

Thanks to figured bricks, it is possible to create protruding patterns on the surface of the masonry, create seamless corners, and also create interesting 3-D ornamental effects, with the help of some of them, it is easy to lay out columns, arches, and so on.

Often in the construction of fences, radial bricks are used. They are not only attractive in appearance and great for rounded columns, but also safe as corner elements:

Round or semicircular;
With corner radius under 55mm, 155mm;
With bonding radii of 55 mm.

But you can also find other forms, for example:

Beveled corners/ribs;
Trapezoidal;
twisted;
Teardrop-shaped;
wedge-shaped;
With sharp edges (angular). They are used for seamless corner separation of the front and side of the fence, pillars, columns, and so on.

Shaped bricks can be both the basis of the facade of the fence, and be part of it, in the form of inserts or columns. On the building materials market, products of various shapes are presented, with various textures - embossed, engobed, glazed, shotcrete or plain smooth.

Color solutions

The bricks used for fences are produced in a wide range of colors, which allows not only to decorate the fence in your favorite color, but also to create your own unique style, as well as effectively combine it with the landscape design of the site, the buildings on it.

The tint spectrum depends on the type of brick, but in general, you can purchase a product of virtually any color - terracotta, sand, green, red, yellow, pink, brown, gray, blue and many others.

Ceramic and clinker bricks in different packs often differ slightly in color. This is due, first of all, to the fact that they are fired, and also consist of natural clay impurities.

Shades are usually natural - from terracotta to dark brown.

Hyper-pressed ones do not differ in different packs, because they do not undergo firing, however, if you want to combine them with other types, you should take into account that they are less bright and have a grayish tint due to the cement added to the mixture. But they have the widest tint range.

When buying a silicate brick, pay attention to its color, too bright indicates a large amount of dye that reduces the strength of the product, with its lack, the colors turn out to be excessively pale.

Experienced builders, during the construction of a fence from ceramic or clinker blocks, take bricks from three packs at once, providing a uniform tint coating over the entire surface of the facade of the fence

Which brick is better to choose

When choosing a brick for a fence, it is first of all necessary to proceed from the features of comparing its types according to technical characteristics for each area separately. For example, you should not choose silicate for sampling in places with excessive atmospheric humidity. If the foundation is of a light type, the hyperpressed product should be discarded.

Bricks with special textures are expensive and if the budget does not allow you to purchase a product that is optimal in terms of characteristics, it is better to abandon the cheap, but worse as a decorative brick in favor of more durable ordinary blocks.

Otherwise, all of the listed types are suitable for fencing. But it is important to remember that you should carefully study the product passport and the appearance of the material before buying it, in order to avoid culling.

A properly built brick fence will serve for decades without any complaints, providing reliable protection against uninvited guests and weather disasters. With the construction of this solid building, you can handle it on your own. Read the provided guide and get started.

Work set

Bricks will be laid on cement mortar. You can cope with its preparation yourself: mix a portion of cement with three portions of sand and add water until a plastic viscous mass is obtained. If desired, add a plasticizer to the mixture - it will extend the life of the masonry. If the budget allows, instead of a home-made mortar, you can use a special ready-made mixture for brickwork - it's faster and more convenient.

Selection and calculation of bricks

The fence can be laid out from different types of bricks.

Each option has its own characteristics, namely:

red brick will need to be plastered after masonry is completed. However, often red brick fences remain unplastered according to the design intent of the owners;
facing brick allows you to imitate a variety of materials and does not need finishing;
frost-resistant brick will allow you to get a fence of the highest quality with an extended service life.

Choose the type of brick, focusing on your preferences and budget.

It is very simple to calculate the required amount of building material, but for this you need to know the total area of \u200b\u200bthe future fence. The dependence is as follows: when laying walls in 1 brick, it takes about 100 building elements to build 1 m 2 of a wall, and about 200 pieces with double laying.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the desired height and thickness of the fence. If the fence is built solely for decorative purposes, it can be built in half a brick, placing the elements with a long edge along the fence. When building in a whole brick, products can be laid out with the long side across the fence.

If the fence will play a protective role, it is better to build it in 1.5-2 bricks. Choose the height of the structure yourself. It can vary over a fairly wide range - from 50 cm to 3.5 m or more.

Name	Average density, kg/m3	Porosity, %	Frost resistance grade	Strength grade	Color
Brick solid	1600-1900	9	15-50	75-300	red
Hollow brick	1000-1450	6-8	15-50	75-300	light brown to dark red
Hollow brick "super efficient"	1100-1150	6-10	15-50	50-150	shades of red
Brick facing	1300-1450	6-14	27-75	75-250	white to brown
Brick facing glazed or engobed	1300-1450	6-14	27-75	75-250	any

To make the finished fence more stable and rigid, it is erected not in solid masonry, but in the form of pillars with piers between them. Usually the pillars are laid out in 2.5-6-meter increments, in accordance with the chosen thickness and height of the walls. Additional brick pillars must be laid out in places where gates and gates are arranged.

Decide on all of the above points and prepare a fence drawing indicating the exact dimensions of each structural element. The drawing will allow you to accurately calculate the required amount of materials and better navigate when performing masonry.

Prices for building and facing bricks

Building and facing bricks

Let's start laying out the foundation. To do this, use a tape measure, rods and rope.

We drive pegs in the corners and along the walls of the future trench in increments of up to 1 m. We pull the rope between the rods. At the same stage, we mark the places for arranging pillars, gates and gates.

We carefully align all the corners - they must be strictly straight. To check this parameter, we use a square. It is very important to correct all detected shortcomings at the markup stage, because it will be much more difficult to do this in the future.

We make the foundation

Let's start building the foundation.

First step. We dig a trench. We maintain the width 60-70 mm wider than the future masonry. We make at least 80-100 cm in depth - the masonry will weigh quite a lot, so it’s better to be safe. We level the walls and bottom of the pit.

Second step. We fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of sand. Carefully tamp the pillow. The sand will act as a drainage and shock absorber during seasonal soil movements.

Third step. We install formwork. We expose the boards so that after pouring the concrete, the upper edge of the base is perfectly flat.

Fourth step. We reinforce the foundation. To do this, we connect steel bars with a wire into a grid according to the size of the foundation. We lay the finished mesh on a compacted sand cushion.

Fifth step. We fill the trench. The solution is bought or prepared from a portion of cement, 4-5 portions of gravel, 2-3 portions of sand and water. We carefully level the surface of the fill and pierce it with reinforcement in several places to remove excess air. We give the pour 3-4 weeks to set strength. The formwork can be dismantled at least 10 days after pouring. In the heat, pour concrete with water to prevent cracking.

Fence masonry

Before laying, we dip the bricks in water for about a minute. Due to this, the pores of the material will be filled with water, and it will not take moisture from the solution.

We pre-cover the frozen foundation with waterproofing material. Suitable roofing material or dense polyethylene folded several times.

To make the fence as strong and reliable as possible, we will build a single integral structure, immediately along the entire planned length. There are technologies in accordance with which the pillars are laid out to the full height first, and then the walls, but we will not consider them.

Fence Laying Sequence

The first row is the most important part of the work

Applying the device, using it as a limiter, we apply the mortar to the brick. Can be applied to laid or laid brick, it's more convenient for anyone

First step. . To do this, lay out the perimeter of the future pillar of 4 bricks, leaving free space between them. In the future, we will fill the empty space with reinforcement and fill it with concrete. First, lay out the columns to a height of 3 bricks.

Second step. We lay out the walls between the pillars to a similar height.

Third step. Associate columns with spans. To do this, we simultaneously lay pieces of reinforcement on the span and on the column. As a result, 2 steel rods should go to the piers on both sides of the pole.

Fourth step. We raise the masonry to the height of three more bricks in the same way. Reinforcing again. Further, the laying of pillars and piers can be carried out together.

We work in the same order to the desired height: we put three rows, reinforce, again three rows, again reinforcement, etc.

In order for the masonry to be not only of high quality, but also beautiful, the seams between the bricks must be the same. This is done very simply:

additionally buy a round metal rod;
we lay it on top of the laid out row of masonry - a rod on each long side of the brick.

Choose the diameter of the rod according to the desired thickness of the seam. It is not recommended to make seams thicker than 6 mm.

To facilitate the task, you can fix the bars along the entire length with a cement mortar. After laying out the fourth row of bricks, the lowest bar should be removed and used in the next row.

In conclusion, it remains only to protect the masonry from precipitation and melt water. We do this with the help of ebbs and caps made of sheet metal. We put caps on the posts, and fix the ebbs on the wall section. To fix the mentioned products, we use dowels.

Plastering the fence

First step. Moisturize the walls.

Second step. We apply a thickness of about 1.5 cm.

Third step. Let the applied solution dry for an hour.

Fourth step. We level the plaster with a rail with sharp edges. We leave the finish to dry for two days. Periodically wet the plaster with water so that it does not crack.

Fifth step. After two days, we moisten the plaster again with water and process it with a special grater.