How to spray a peach from a green aphid. Peach or greenhouse aphid (Myzodes persicae). Video: aphid??? you won't have it anymore

Peach is not so often found in country gardens, like the same apple trees or pears, since this fruit crop is very capricious in care and requires heightened attention. In order for the tree to bear fruit regularly, it is necessary to properly care for it, including the mandatory spring processing of peach in the spring from all kinds of diseases (especially against leaf curl) and pests.

Why spring peach processing is needed: main diseases and pests

In order for the peach to be able to recover faster after the winter in spring and enter the growing season in a timely manner, it is necessary to provide him with maximum care and attention from the first days.

The beginning of spring is a period of awakening not only of plants, but also of the worst enemies of culture: wintering pest larvae and fungal spores. But before you carry out proper care and process the peach in the spring, you need to recognize the enemy (all diseases and pests of the crop) “by sight”.

Diseases

Spring peach processing is carried out against the following fungal diseases:

- the most dangerous disease of this culture.

Infection occurs during swelling of the kidneys.

First, it affects young, freshly blossomed leaves, on which amber or red-pink bumpy spots appear (their surface becomes uneven and wavy). And after a couple of weeks, a white waxy coating forms on the underside of the leaf - this is the fruiting of the fungus. In the future, such leaves turn brown and fall off.

Exposure of the affected shoots begins, as a rule, from below. From this, they take the form of a brush, thicken, bend, acquire a yellowish tint. After that, starting from the top, part of the shoots exposed as a result of leaf fall dries up, the rest die at the first frost.

Fruits developing on two-year-old shoots affected by curlyness fall off.

Video: processing peach from leaf curl

Clasterosporiasis (perforated spotting).

Moniliosis (fruit rot) and monilial burn.

Note! The site already has content. .

powdery mildew- one of the most common problems (along with moniliosis = fruit rot) of all stone fruits. It affects foliage, shoots and fruits, manifesting itself as a dirty white (yellow) coating.

Rarely enough, peach trees pick up scab.

Pests

The most first treatment of peaches from pests carried out against the following wintering stages of insect pests:

scale insects;
worm;
ticks;
sucker and other sucking and leaf-eating pests.

Second and subsequent peach treatments are already carried out against such pests as:

Flower weevils- affects buds, buds and flowers. In addition, they are carriers of many fungal diseases.

Aphid- affects young foliage and shoots, feeding on their juice. It multiplies rapidly and forms numerous colonies. In the absence of protective procedures, it can cause serious harm to the culture and significantly slow down its development.

Typically found on peaches blood aphid.

Mite. Requires special treatment with acaricides. With a large number, it can greatly weaken the immunity of the plant.

Mining moth.

Eastern codling moth.

The main stages and terms of processing peach from diseases and pests: when to spray

It is very important not to be late and to carry out the first early spring peach processing on time. However, don't be in too much of a hurry. If there is still snow outside the window or the weather is unstable: there are often precipitations - rains, sleet, fog, then spraying at this time will simply be ineffective.

Thus, when stable warm (+4..5 degrees during the day and not lower than 0 at night) and dry weather sets in, it will be possible to make the first treatment.

Note! If you did not have time to do this in the fall (and you should have), then late winter - early spring (February-early March) highly desirable to whitewashing trunks and low skeletal peach branches. This treatment will protect your fruit trees from the sun (ultraviolet) rays and sudden temperature changes in the winter-spring period, which will prevent the appearance of cracks on them, into which various infections (fungal spores) and pests can no longer get.

By the way! About, how to whitewash fruit trees (including peaches) in autumn and spring, read .

It is quite obvious that different diseases and pests appear at different times. Accordingly, each phase of peach development should have its own specifics of its processing. At the same time, it is very difficult to name specific dates, it is much easier and more correct to focus specifically on the phases of development (vegetation) of a peach tree in the spring.

So, there is a certain scheme for processing the garden in the spring, according to which spraying is carried out at the following stages of development (vegetation) of the peach:

It is necessary to process a peach in the spring from diseases and pests at least 4 times, which guarantees the protection of the crop and a wonderful harvest.

Before awakening or bud break, when they are still sleeping.

This treatment is also called "early spring spraying", and more often spraying "on a bare tree", because. at this time, no signs of awakening (vegetation) have yet appeared on the peach.

By the way! Instead of treating dormant buds, some gardeners spray on those that have already begun to swell (wake up)

"Green Cone" When the buds are already swollen and burst, but the leaves have not yet appeared (turned around).
"By rose buds". Also called the stage of "promotion or separation of buds."

Interesting! Sometimes the treatment is carried out directly during flowering, but only against diseases.

"On the ovaries with a pea." In other words, after flowering, when small ovaries are already formed.
In the future (already in the summer), at the stage of growth and formation of fruits, it is also necessary to carry out preventive and therapeutic treatments (if you do not want to use chemicals, then at least spray with biological preparations).

In the fall (after leaf fall), it is necessary to carry out an autumn eradicating spraying (copper or iron sulfate, Bordeaux liquid).

Video: spraying scheme for peaches and others fruit trees spring

Important! If it seems to you that it is unrealistic to carry out such a number of treatments, then this is not at all the case, even if you are in the country only on weekends (1-2 days a week). Each stage does not last one day, but about a week or more. In addition, you can track all the stages on the city trees.

Before awakening of the kidneys or early spring spraying "on bare trees"

For the first time, it is necessary to process a peach in the spring from diseases and pests. before bud break while they are still dormant.

Spray the peach in the spring, before the awakening (blooming) of the buds, you should only at positive air temperature not less than +4..+5 degrees.

The first spray is often called "extirpating" because this processing allows you to get rid of most of the wintering stages of insect pests, as well as from spores of some fungal diseases.

Moreover, it is important to spray not only the peach trees themselves (trunks and branches), but also the soil at their base., since many pests and pathogens are also concentrated there, which, when higher temperatures are established, will begin to attack young leaves and shoots.

Typically, during this period the simplest means of contact. For example, to choose from: Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron sulfate mixed with urea.

And you can use special preparation against wintering stages of pests- "Prophylactin" or "Preparation 30 Plus".

Video: spring spraying and Bordeaux mixture

Spraying in the "green cone" stage

The second treatment of peaches in the spring against diseases and pests should be carried out during the period of swelling and bud break, in other words, in the “green cone” stage.

This phase is characterized by the fact that the buds on the trees have already burst, but the leaves have not yet unfolded, although they are already clearly visible (hence the “green cone”).

Note! Spraying in the "green cone" phase is considered the most important and most favorable period for the treatment of peach from diseases and pests.

Important! If for some reason you did not carry out the processing at the previous stage, then it is better hurry up, because the the duration of this phase (“green cone”) is relatively short. Moreover, if the weather is good sunny, the temperature is stable above +10 degrees, then the kidneys will open quickly enough.

At this stage, usually more serious means are being used:

against clasterosporiasis - Horus or Skor (or its full analogue Rayok);

Important! Chorus must be used at temperatures up to +15 degrees, Speed (Rayok) - above +15.

leaf curl - Horus or Skor.

Contact fungicidal preparations can also be used against copper based

Specificity! For example, Horus works great at low positive temperatures (about +4..+5, but up to +15), a Skor or Rayok on the contrary, it works better at higher temperatures (from +10..+15). Therefore, at the stages before budding and flowering (in the “green cone” phase), it is desirable to spray with Horus, and Skorom - already at the “rose bud” stage and after flowering (“pea-sized ovaries”).

It's time to start fighting with flower beetles (weevils), for example, Aktara.

However, if you missed the previous processing, then at the stage of the "green cone" it is still possible to spray the peach Bordeaux liquid or one of the solutions based on copper or iron sulphate with urea(See more details in the paragraph "Tank mixtures"). And also apply against overwintering stages of pests a special drug - "Prophylactin" and "Preparation 30 Plus".

By the way! Copper sulfate and Bordeaux liquid, which also contains copper, perfectly protect against leaf curl.

At the same stage for additional protection of peaches from pests You can put on stamps trees special trapping belts, build and hang on branches glue traps, pheromone houses.

Video: second spring spraying of the garden

Spraying in the stage of budding or in the phase of "rose bud"

The third stage of the processing of peaches in the spring from diseases and pests is carried out at the stage when the bud has already formed and advanced (it is pink), but has not yet opened.

Interesting! At this time, it begins its activity (to lay eggs) codling moth.

At this stage, spraying should be carried out against the following diseases:

leaf curl - Horus, Skor, Delan;
monilial burn— Horus;
powdery mildew - Topaz.

Also against clasterosporiasis and curliness copper based, for example, Abiga-peak, Hom, Polyhom.

As far as pest control is concerned,

against flower beetle - Aktara, Karate Zeon;
aphids, copperheads- Aktara;
ticks- Karate Zeon;
leaf rollers - Insegar, Voliam Flexi;

You can use any similar means aimed at the listed pests, the above is just an example.

Temperature conditions at the "rosebud" stage tend to improve, the weather it is warm and sunny (temperature + 10-15 degrees and above), which means you can start using biological drugs(see separate paragraph "Biopreparations").

Video: peach processing in the rosebud phase

Spraying after flowering "by ovaries with a pea"

Immediately after flowering, when small ovaries are already formed, it is necessary to produce complex treatment of peaches as from diseases(especially against moniliosis) and against pests(especially from codling moth).

Spraying should be carried out with similar preparations:

against clasterosporiasis - Horus, Skor;
leaf curl - Horus, Skor;
monilial burn - Horus;
powdery mildew - Topaz;
moniliosis (fruit rot)— Horus.

Also against clasterosporiasis and curliness fungicides can be used copper based, for example, Abiga-peak, Hom, Polyhom.

As far as pest control is concerned,

against aphids, suckers - Aktara, Voliam Flexi;
ticks - Karate Zeon, Vertimek;
leaf rollers - Insegar, Voliam Flexy, Lufox, Prokleim;
mining moth - Insegar, Prokleim.
codling moths - Insegar, Lufoks, Voliam Flexi, Prokleim, Match.

Advice! If some leaves still pick up curl, then they will need to be removed manually.

How to properly spray a peach in spring

During the preparation of solutions and spraying trees observe safety precautions. If the product packaging says that you need to wear special clothing (robe, overalls, raincoat), goggles and a respirator, rubber gloves, then you need to wear it.

Processing should only be in dry and calm weather.

In sunny weather, it is better to refrain from spraying., because, quickly drying out, the drugs become ineffective or do not work at all. Spraying is best done in cloudy, calm weather, but also not by rain: after the rain, the branches are wet, as if a thin “film” of water is on them. And spraying is droplets of the solution, which in the same way cover the plant with a thin “film” of drops. If processing is carried out, the concentration of the solution will decrease, and the processing efficiency will decrease.

Spraying is desirable in the morning (after the dew has dried) or late evening (after sunset).

Too early processing will be ineffective due to non-evaporated dew and high humidity.

Processing is always carried out exactly after, in order to further protect the cut points (ideally, if you sprinkle them with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid, in other words, if there is copper in the fungicide).

By the way! Some gardeners believe that the simplest and most economical remedy is correct pruning. So, at the end of the first pruning, before bud break, you need to cut all annual branches 2-3 buds from the top. Most of all fungal spores hibernate in them. This is the most unripe and painful part of the plant. From here comes the infection of healthy parts of the peach. Sometimes this procedure is enough to prevent curly hair from appearing.

It does not follow carry out spraying against pests during the flowering period(may harm bees and other pollinators) only for diseases.
All prepared solutions should be pass through a filter mesh so as not to clog the sprayer.
Suitable for dissolving almost all drugs water room temperature (for vitriol it is desirable to use hot water, about + 40-50 degrees).

What if you are using a biological product, then water better to take settled or filtered, i.e. without chlorine.

At each stage, you can use like the same drugs(to save money) and new (better change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate(use alternately).

During each phase, you can carry out not 1, but 2 or more treatments, if it is indicated in the instructions for the drug, especially after flowering.

You can prepare tank mixtures that will have insecticidal-fungicidal properties (in this case, it is necessary to clarify the compatibility of drugs).

However! Some agronomists believe that do not immediately give a double chemical load on the plant. It is better to take a break for at least 1 day (for example, on Saturday morning, treat with a fungicide, and on Sunday morning with an insecticide). It is also possible to spray with an interval of 1 week, i.e. on one weekend they were treated for pests, the next - for diseases (or vice versa).

The specifics of the processing of adult (old) and young trees

Naturally, adult fruit-bearing peaches need to be fully processed in the spring, i.e. in 4 stages.

Another thing, while the tree does not bloom and bear fruit, it is obvious that insects stick to it less. Therefore, it will be enough to process young peach trees only 3 times:

on dormant buds from diseases and wintering pests;
"on a green cone" from insect pests;
after flowering, when pea-sized ovaries are formed, from diseases (especially against monilial burn).

Note! peach is one of the fastest growing fruit crops, which starts fruit already 3rd year after planting.

How to treat peach in the spring from pests and diseases: the best preparations

For spring processing garden exists a large number of funds, but how exactly to process a peach in the spring from diseases and pests, before proceeding with the procedure, you need to decide in advance. As well as how to use drugs, in what quantity to use them. Next, we will analyze this issue in more detail.

Note! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money), and new ones (and it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

Important! The instructions for each drug always indicate when (at what time) and how many times they need to process.

So, for effective spring processing of peaches, you will need:

fungicides (drugs to fight diseases);

By the way! In this case, fungicides are divided into preparations protective (preventive) and curative action, as well as protective-healing.

Of course, it is optimal to use complex drugs that have protective and therapeutic effects.

Accordingly, if you noticed signs of illness, then no preventive (protective) means will help you, only treating (or protective-treating).

insecticides (means for combating insect pests);
insectofungicides (complex preparations that act simultaneously against pests and diseases).

By origin, these products (fungicides and insecticides) can be:

chemical (those same "chemicals");
biological (biological products).

Of course, there are also folk remedies , for example, various solutions and infusions based on herbs, etc. But their effectiveness is very, very limited.

Chemicals and Biologicals

Note! Many gardeners have a preconceived notion that the use of chemicals is negatively reflected (carries Negative consequences) on the quality of the future crop and human health. However, this is not true, since after the waiting period all harmful substances (pesticides) are removed long before the ripening and harvesting of fruits.

Unlike biopreparations, chemical agents act much faster and more reliably. In addition, the use of chemicals is very often the only way to cure a crop of fungal diseases and get rid of annoying pests.

To Of course, this should without fail fully comply with the recommendations on their dosage and timing of spraying.

Whereas biological preparations and folk remedies have a more gentle effect, which is permissible only in the following cases:

with a small number of pests;
at the initial stage of the development of a fungal disease or a mild infection, and even better as a prophylaxis (protection), but not an active fight.

Fungicides (chemical)

As for preparations suitable for spring spraying of peaches against diseases, the following can be used fungicides(chemical agents for combating fungal diseases of plants):

Important! For one treatment, you need to choose only one preparation (fungicide), and then use a new one (preferably with a different active ingredient), or alternate.

Bordeaux mixture ( contact fungicide, 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid - before bud break and 1% - in the "rose bud" stage - from clasterosporiosis, curliness and moniliosis);

Copper vitriol ( contact fungicide, from clasterosporiasis, curliness and moniliosis);

Inkstone;

About that, it is told in detail.

Carbamide (urea);

Usually,

Abiga Peak ( protective contact fungicide based copper oxychloride,

Hom ( contact fungicide protective action based copper oxychloride against clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and curliness);
Oksihom ( contact systemic fungicideprotective action based copper oxychloride and oxadixyl, against clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and curliness);

Inkstone;

Advice! About, when, how and why to use iron sulphate, described in detail.

Carbamide (urea);

Usually, urea is used together with copper or iron sulphate, namely, the tank mixture is being prepared.

Thiovit Jet ( contact fungicide based sulfur, especially effective against powdery mildew and mites);
Delan ( contact fungicide for protective and curative action based dithianon, against leaf curl, clasterosporiasis, scab);

Forecast ( systemic fungicide protective and healing action based propiconazole

Tilt ( systemic fungicide protective and healing action based propiconazole, against leaf curl, powdery mildew);
Topsin-M ( systemic-contact protective fungicide action based Thiophanate-methyl, against scab, powdery mildew, fruit rot moniliosis and monilial burn, clasterosporiosis);

Horus (based on cyprodinil, against moniliosis - fruit rot and monilial burn, clasterosporiasis, leaf curl);

Speed ( systemic fungicide with protective and curative action based difenoconazole, against clasterosporiosis and leaf curl, as well as scab);

Rayok ( systemic fungicide with protective and curative action based difenoconazole, against clasterosporiasis and leaf curl, as well as scab);

In fact, Speed \u003d Rayok (its analogue).

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against what diseases), terms, dosages!

Insecticides (chemical)

With regard to preparations suitable for spraying peaches in spring against pests, the following insecticides (pest control agents) can be used:

Important! For one treatment, you need to choose only one preparation (insecticide), and then use a new one (preferably with a different active ingredient) or alternate.

Active ingredients are listed in parentheses.

Aktara ( Thiamethoxam (Aktara),systemic insecticide intestinal-contact action, against the beetle, sucker, aphids);

Actellik ( Pirimiphos-methyl (Actellik), systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action against ticks?);
prophylactin ( Vaseline oil and Malathion (Karbofos), an enteric-contact insecticide against wintering stages of pests - ticks, aphids, scale insects, leafworms, suckers, etc.; ideal for swelling buds, early spring).

Preparation 30 plus(contact insect-acaricide against wintering stages of pests - scale insects, false scale insects, mites, aphids, suckers, moths, mealybugs; spray during dormancy).

Fufanon ( Malathion (Karbofos),

Aliot ( Malathion (Karbofos), enteric-contact insectoacaricide from codling moth, sucker, leafworm, aphids, mites);

Fufanon and Aliot are complete analogues!

Decis Profi ( deltamethrin, enteric-contact insecticide, against flower beetle, codling moth, leafworm and aphids);

Hyphen Expert ( Deltamethrin, enteric-contact insecticide, against flower beetle, codling moth, leafworm and aphids);
Karate Zeon ( lambda cyhalothrin, enteric-contact insecticide, against flower beetle, codling moth, leafworm, ticks, aphids);

Kinmix ( Beta-cypermethrin, enteric-contact insecticide against codling moth, leafworm, flower beetle, aphids, sucker);

Biotlin (Imidacloprid, contact-intestinal systemic insecticide, against aphids; spray before flowering);
Engio ( Thiamethoxam ilambda-cyhalothrin, against codling moth, aphids, ticks);
Caesar ( Alpha cypermethrin, an insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against codling moth, aphids);
Movento Energy ( Imidacloprid pyrotetramate, a systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against codling moth, leafworm, scutes, suckers, aphids);
Belt ( Flubendiamide, a systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against codling moth, leafworm, mining moth);
Calypso ( thiacloprid, a systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against the codling moth, leafworm, scale insects, flower beetle);
Proklam ( emamectin benzoate,intestinal-contact insecticide from codling moth and bunch leafworm);
Vertimek ( Abamectin, enteric-contact insecticide against ticks, suckers);
Lufox ( Lufenuron and fenoxycarb
Match ( Lufenuron, an insecticide of intestinal-contact action from the codling moth)
Insegar ( Fenoxycarb, an insecticide of intestinal-contact action from the codling moth and bunch leafworm);
Voliam Flexi ( Thiaetoxam (Aktara) and chlorantraniliprole, a systemic insecticide of enteric-contact action against the codling moth, mining moth, bunch leafworm, aphids, thrips and cicadas);
And other insecticides a wide range actions.

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against which pests), terms, dosages.

Video: how to spray trees in the spring from insect pests

Biological preparations of fungicidal and insecticidal action

Biological products are created on the basis of living organisms:

mushroom antagonists;

bacteria;
bacterial viruses;

beneficial insects (entomophages and acariphages).

Among biological products, fungicides, insecticides, and insectofungicides can be distinguished.

Note! As a rule, almost all biological preparations work effectively under the condition of a sufficiently high positive air temperature (+10 ... +15 degrees), so they begin to be used only at the “rose bud” stage, while the first and second treatments must be carried out using chemicals.

Biologicals fungicidal action(against diseases):

Fitolavin (fungicide, for moniliosis = fruit rot);

Alirin-B (systemic contact fungicide with protective and curative action, against powdery mildew, moniliosis);
Phytosporin (contact fungicide, against powdery mildew, moniliosis, leaf curl);

Planriz (contact fungicide, against moniliosis, leaf spots, including curl);

Trichodermin or Trichoderma (fungicide, for moniliosis, leaf spots, including curliness);

Biologicals insecticidal action(against pests):

Aktofit (insecticide, from codling moth, flower beetle, ticks, aphids, thrips);

Interesting! Aktofit is created on the basis of toxins of biological origin.

Bitoxibacillin (from codling moth, leaflet, moth);

Lepidocide (from codling moth, moth);

Fitoverm ( Aversectin C, from codling moth, leafworm, ticks);
Kleshchevit ( Aversectin C, from codling moth, leafworm ticks; ideal to spray after flowering);
Gaupsin (insectofungicide of complex action, from moniliosis, leaf spots, including curliness, scab, powdery mildew, codling moth, aphids, leafworms and other pests).

Note! Yes, biologics have their advantages (they are environmentally friendly, have short term expectations), but it is worth recognizing that they are not as effective as chemical ones.

Tank mixes (fungicides + insecticides)

Note! Not all drugs can be mixed. For example, practically nothing can be mixed with Bordeaux liquid (it has an alkaline reaction).

The instructions should indicate which drugs they can be combined with.

For spring spraying of peach (except for the first, when the buds are still sleeping), you can prepare the following tank mixtures (fungicide + insecticide):

Chemical:

Chorus (fungicide) + Decis Profi (insecticide);

At higher temperatures (+10..+15 degrees) Horus should be replaced with Skor(fungicide) + Decis Profi.

Basically, you can replace Hyphen Profi with Aktara (insecticide): Aktara + Horus and Aktara + Speed

Engio- also works great in tandem with Horus or Skor.

Speed + Topaz;
Horus (or Skor) + Aktara + Karate Zeon;
Bayleton (fungicide) + Karate (insecticide);
Tilt (fungicide) + Caesar (insecticide);
Skor (or Horus) + Caesar (insecticide).

By the way! It is believed that the tank mixture Skor + Horus will protect the peach from all major diseases by 99%.

Biological:

Lepidocide + Bitoxibacillin + Gaupsin (insectofungicide)

Against leaf curl and other diseases:

Planriz (fungicide) + Trichodermin (fungicide) + Pentafag-S (fungicide);
Planriz (fungicide) + Trichodermin (fungicide) + Gaupsin (insectofungicide).
Planriz (fungicide) + Pentafag-S (fungicide) + Gaupsin (insectofungicide).

Eradication spraying against diseases and pests

As an option, at the "green cone" stage or even earlier (when the kidneys are completely asleep) you can prepare the following solutions (tank mixes) for spring eradication spraying of peach against diseases and pests.

Let's be honest! Complete eradication of pests will not occur, but those that hibernate on the bark or in cracks (for example, the same scale insect) will suffer significantly if the solution enters.

Therefore, for the complete destruction of pests in the future, it is necessary to use other more serious and modern drugs.

It is desirable to do the processing exactly according to the “green cone”, it is possible even earlier (when the kidneys are completely asleep), but not later.

However! If the leaves have already unfolded, then processing can still be carried out, but with certain restrictions. So, the concentration of solutions should be reduced by 2 times, i.e. either dilute with water 2 times, or reduce the amount of funds used by 2 times.

Recipe for a solution with copper sulphate

Take 300 grams blue vitriol and first dissolve in 1-1.5 liters hot water(40-50 degrees).

Note! Copper sulfate is not friendly with iron (iron objects), so use wooden and plastic sticks, as well as buckets (the same glass jars will do) to prepare the solution (stir it).

Then pour the resulting concentrated solution into the sprayer, where there are already 8.5-9 liters of water.
Next, pour a full 1-liter jar of urea (carbamide). If it seems to you that this is too high a concentration, then you can reduce the amount of urea to 500-700 grams.

Interesting! Treatment with urea along the "green cone" not only has a positive effect on the number of pests, but also delays flowering by 7-10 days. It is especially important that return frosts have time to pass before flowering.

Add 200-250 ml of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent.

Important! Laundry and any other solid soap is incompatible with a solution of both iron and copper sulfate (copper and iron simply precipitate). Therefore, it is necessary to use liquid soap, for example, any dishwashing detergent will do.

To enhance the effect of copper sulphate, 30-50 ml of 10% ammonia (ammonia) should be added to the solution.
Carry out eradicating spraying of trunks and branches.

The recipe for a solution with iron sulphate

First, dissolve 20-30 grams in 1-1.5 liters of hot water citric acid.

By the way! Iron vitriol, when dissolved in water, oxidizes quite quickly (2-valent iron becomes 3-valent). To prevent this from happening, you need to add some kind of complexing agent to the solution (so to speak, chelate ferrous sulfate), for example, the same citric acid.

Next, add 500 grams of iron sulfate to the resulting citric acid solution.

Note! For peach, which belongs to stone fruit crops (like apricot, plum, cherry plum, cherry, sweet cherry), it is recommended to prepare a 3% solution, i.e. you need 300 grams of iron sulfate.

But for the processing of pome crops (apple, pear, quince, chokeberry, mountain ash, grapes), it is recommended to prepare a 4-5% solution, that is, you need to add 400-500 grams of iron sulfate.

To destroy mosses and lichens on trees and garden tiles, as well as to treat the basement or cellar from mold, a 5-6% solution is prepared, i.e. 500-600 grams of iron sulfate

Then you need to pour the resulting solution into the sprayer, where there are already 8.5-9 liters of water.
Further, everything is similar to the previous recipe: add a full 1-liter jar of urea (carbamide) to the solution. If it seems to you that this is too high a concentration, then you can reduce the amount of urea to 500-700 grams.
Add 200-250 ml of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent.
Optionally, you can also take humates (according to the instructions).
Mix everything thoroughly and shake.
Carry out eradicating treatment of trunks and branches, as well as mosses in the garden (on the lawn), stones, foundations.

Video: eradicating the garden in the spring from pests and diseases

Folk remedies against pests

Folk remedies can be used as preventive measures to protect peach from pests. They are completely safe and environmentally friendly for both the garden and humans.

Infusion of tobacco. To prepare the infusion, you need: pour 0.5 kg of dried tobacco into 10 liters of water and insist for 2 days. Then boil for an hour, again let stand for 1 day. Next, add 1 liter of infusion, 40 grams of soap to 10 liters of water and spray.

By the way! Alternatively, you can use tobacco dust.

Infusion of chamomile officinalis. The mixture helps to scare away many pests. To prepare a working solution, pour 0.5 kg of dry plant collection with 5 liters of boiling water, leave to infuse for at least 12 hours. Grate 40 g into the resulting mixture laundry soap and add water to 10 liters. Strain and apply to spraying the trunk and crown.

Decoction of hot pepper. It is recommended to use against pests. Pour dried pepper pods (100 g) with boiling water (1 l) and cook for 2 hours. Insist for two hours, then clean and add water to a total volume of 10 liters. Use for spraying shoots and leaves.

And let your peaches be like that!

It is impossible to imagine a full-fledged peach care in the spring without pest and disease control, since the harvest can only be obtained if timely and quality processing tree. And what exactly to spray your peach trees with is your personal choice, just do not ignore the dosage and timing of spraying. And remember that peach processing in the spring is the most important crop protection measure that will allow you to get a rich harvest of tasty and healthy fruits.

Video: peach leaf curl, how to treat quickly and effectively

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The most common pest on peach is the aphid, especially the large peach, black and green aphids. In the fight against aphids on peach in horticulture, there are various methods.

In the article we will consider agrotechnical, mechanical, chemical and biological methods how to deal with aphids on a peach. Signs of aphids:

the accumulation of black, green or brown aphids are clearly visible on young shoots, plant buds, and especially on the lower part of the leaves;
leaves and buds are covered with honeydew, a sticky liquid secreted by aphids;
tops of shoots and infected leaves curl down, do not develop and dry up, buds do not open, and fruits do not develop;
gray-green fleas appear inside the twisted leaves.

Damage

Green aphids on peach damage young seedlings. Since their activity causes discoloration, wrinkling and random curling of the leaves at the top, the flowers fall off and dry out.

A large peach aphid sucks the juice from the bark and branches, with a strong infection with it, the bark will be wet and sticky, the upper leaves will tightly wrap up and turn red, and may even fall off ahead of time.

The black peach aphid populates the crown of trees in spring, and already at the beginning of summer it can fly to other crops, especially legumes. Since the black aphid colony on a peach consists of females, they multiply very quickly, which, in addition to the above harm, can lead to the appearance of black sooty fungus on the tree.

Agrotechnical and mechanical methods of control

Before treating a peach from aphids with various chemical means, one must use such simple agrotechnical and mechanical methods:

weed out or mow down unwanted vegetation, especially perennial weeds;
remove root shoots;
clean the lagging bark on boles and skeletal branches;
remove aphids on peach leaves with your hands or rinse with a strong jet of water from a hose;
invite natural enemies of aphids into the garden: ladybug, hoverfly, lacewing, wasps and small birds, planting fragrant herbs, nettles and green manure.

Chemical methods of dealing with aphids on peach

These methods consist in the selection of effective pesticides, which can be used to spray peach from aphids:

Before winter - 2% solution.
Before and after flowering - with a solution of your choice: 1% Bordeaux mixture, 0.8% thiozol 80 together with 0.12% fostiol H40, 0.15% vofatox 30, 0.15% dipterex, 0.1% sevinoma 85. Repeat after two weeks.
During the formation of buds - Confidor 0.25 l / ha.
At the first appearance, but only not when the fruits ripen - 0.2% solutions of Bi-58 or Dursban.
For a regular fight - 8 ml of Aktofit is diluted in a liter of water and 0.02% liquid soap is added, re-treatment is possible no earlier than after 15-20 days, it is better to do it before the leaves begin to curl.
Against black aphids - a 0.1% solution of thiophos or phosphamide, as well as nicotine sulfate and a 0.2% solution of anabazine with laundry soap or lime.
For the destruction of overwintered aphids, before bud break, - 0.5% DNOC solution, can be done once every two years.

Biological methods of dealing with aphids on peach

There are less dangerous means than you can poison aphids on a peach - these are biological. Decoctions and infusions of tomatoes, dandelion, hot capsicum, garlic and onion peel are effective in the fight against aphids.

Sure to get more useful harvest, it is better to prevent the appearance of aphids on peach leaves using preventive measures such as applying ash and mineral fertilizers under the tree, which will increase resistance to peach aphids.

Video: APLI??? YOU WILL NOT HAVE IT ANY MORE!!!

Video: Ants and Aphids How to fight 2 Ants and aphids How to deal 2

Growing peach on your own plot is not the easiest task. Not only that, not every region can be suitable in terms of climatic conditions, so also a variety of misfortunes will periodically try to leave the gardener without a crop. And to provide the tree healthy life, you need to know all the possible troubles in person. Controlling diseases and pests is an important step towards a healthy, bountiful harvest.

Diseases and pests of the peach tree

Peach is characterized by all the main stone fruit diseases - leaf curl, fruit rot (moniliosis), powdery mildew, cytosporosis and clasterosporosis. In addition, sometimes it is attacked by pests - aphids, eastern codling moth, fruit mite, fruit moth, weevil. The gardener needs to react in time and get rid of problems.

The peach tree is a good target for diseases and pests, so you should not sit back, even if a variety resistant to many adversities grows on the site.

Table: disease-resistant peach varieties

Photo gallery of peach diseases and pests

Peach diseases and their causes + photo

All diseases that can be encountered when caring for a peach are conventionally divided into three groups - diseases of the leaves, trunk and fruits. Of course, this does not mean that this or that ailment affects only the fruits or the trunk, but it manifests itself most clearly on a specific part of the tree.

leaf diseases

Clusterosporiasis

Clasterosporiasis is one of the most common and unpleasant diseases that affects almost the entire tree - leaves, buds, flowers, ovaries and shoots. The disease manifests itself most clearly and most noticeably on the leaves, on which brown spots with a dark red border - foci of defeat by the fungus. Damaged leaf tissue dies and falls out, leaving a hole. It is because of this that klesterosporiosis got its second name - perforated spotting.

Klyasterosporiosis is called perforated spotting, because. leaf spot disease

The fungus, which is the causative agent of the disease, penetrates into the tissues of the peach tree and forms a mycelium there, which gradually penetrates into the cells of the plant and causes their death. The problem is that hiding on the shoots, flower buds and affected branches, it easily survives the winter and begins to spread to healthy parts of the tree when positive temperatures occur. It is important here to detect the symptoms of the disease in time and rid the peach of those parts that have already suffered. That is why early spring pruning, which is carried out with the onset of warm weather, plays such an important role as both prevention and treatment. Sections after treatment are disinfected with a solution of lime with the addition of copper or iron sulphate.

In the process of treatment, such well-known drugs as Hom and Meteor are used. Spraying is carried out three times - during the swelling of the kidneys, as well as before and after flowering.

Curly

Curly leaves are also not a gift - in a wet, rainy and protracted spring, the disease gets every chance for successful development and reproduction, attacking the leaves first. As soon as the leaves bloom, it will already be possible to see on them, in addition to the usual Green colour also purple. A little later, a border of the same color will appear. After a week or a little more, a gray coating can already be seen on the back of the sheet. The disease affects the shoots, and after a while the leaves curl and fall off, leaving the branches bare. At the first frost, the shoots are doomed to death. A tree affected by curliness almost ceases to bear fruit, and those rare specimens that did appear have a damaged pericarp.

Curly hair is a fungal disease, which is one of the most common

To avoid yield problems, diseased shoots should be pruned before the start of the sporulation period. In autumn, before the rains begin, the so-called blue treatment is carried out with preparations containing copper. In the spring, the preparations "Skor" and "Horus", as well as "Hom" are used. This simple scheme looks like this: first, during the growing season, the peach is sprayed with copper chloride, and after 8-12 days, Horus or Skor is used.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the most dangerous diseases affecting shoots, leaves and fruits. It is easy enough to calculate white coating, which at the initial stage can be erased with a finger, but then it coarsens, turns brown and turns into dark spots. Shoots touched by powdery mildew lag behind in development, are damaged and die. Thanks to its sharp suckers, the mycelium successfully sucks out everything it needs from the tree. nutrients. The wind facilitates the easy movement of spores and spread over large areas. The disease is especially severe during drought.

Powdery mildew quickly spreads over the site and captures shoots, leaves and fruits

In order to prevent the disease from developing, the affected shoots, leaves and fruits (still belonging to the tree or already fallen) are removed. As a therapeutic measure, "Topsin" or "Topaz" is used at the end of flowering.

If insecticides are added to these drugs, the effectiveness of the treatment will increase.

trunk ailments

Cytosporosis

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that affects the bark of a tree. More precisely, the bast is a layer located between the bark and the wood, which acquires a dark brown color during illness. You can detect this disease by withering, drying tops of the shoots, as well as brown smudges and spots on the bark. From the tops of the shoots, cytosporosis descends, capturing the skeletal branches and trunk. After the defeat of the latter, the tree will be under serious threat.

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease, but unlike fruit rot or powdery mildew, it settles under the bark

Branches damaged by the disease are immediately removed. Shortening occurs to a length of 0.8 - 1.5 m, sometimes the entire skeletal branch is removed, but on condition that not a single millimeter of diseased bast remains below the cut point, otherwise cytosporosis will not stop. Cut parts of a tree, as well as dried trees, must be burned immediately or taken out as far as possible. The first option looks preferable, since the infection travels long distances without any problems, and there is no guarantee that after a while the disease will not return to your site.

Since cytosporosis primarily affects weakened trees, it is necessary to observe a full range of agrotechnical measures, such as timely (and, most importantly, correct) pruning, regular watering, timely treatment of wounds, etc.

A good means of preventing and treating cytosporosis is 3% Bordeaux liquid (300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water), used for spraying in early spring (before leafing) and autumn (during or after leaf fall).

Fruit diseases

Moniliosis

Fruit rot or moniliosis, monilial burn - all these are the names of one disease caused by the same fungus, which affects flowers, leaves and branches during flowering, and later fruits. The monilial burn got such a peculiar name, because the leaves and fruits affected by the scourge look like burnt ones. The disease manifests itself especially clearly on the fruits, on which brown spots appear, deforming them. These spots spread over the fruits, and light gray or gray pads of spores appear on them, forming concentric circles. The wind easily transfers spores to other trees, and if the weather is cool, damp, the disease spreads rapidly across the site, affecting almost all, without exception, fruit plants.

Moniliosis causes the fruits to rot on the branches up to their complete wrinkling and drying.

As a preventive measure, periodic pruning of the tree is carried out to prevent thickening of the crown. The parts of the plant found affected by moniliosis are removed. Prior to flowering, they are treated with the Chorus preparation. After flowering, "Topaz" is used, and after it - "Topsin". Thanks to this approach, not only the pathogen is destroyed, but also its carriers, which are oriental codling moths, geese, weevils and boucars.

Fallen fruits damaged by moniliosis are immediately collected and carried far beyond the site, and in the fall they are removed from the trees.

Table: peach diseases, treatment and prevention

Disease name	Remedy for treatment	Dosage	Multiplicity of treatments
Clusterosporiasis	Hom (copper oxychloride)	40 gr per 10 liters (2 - 5 liters per tree)	Triple treatment - during bud swelling, at the beginning and at the end of flowering
	Meteor	4 kg per hectare
	3% Bordeaux liquid		Treat in autumn after leaf fall
leaf curl	3% Bordeaux liquid	300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water	By sleeping kidneys
	2% Bordeaux liquid		By the opening buds
	1% Bordeaux liquid		On vegetative shoots
	Hom	40 gr per 10 l	During the growing season in combination with preparations "Horus" and "Skor"
	Horus	3.5 gr per 10 l
	Speed	2 ml per 10 liters of water (2 - 5 liters per tree)	8 - 12 days after the application of "Hom"
powdery mildew	Topsin	15 gr per 10 l	At the end of flowering
	Topaz	2 ml per 10 l	At the end of flowering
	Fundazol	10 gr per 10 l	In combination with preparations "Topsin" and "Topaz" First spraying before flowering
Cytosporosis	3% Bordeaux liquid	300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water	Early spring (before leafing) and autumn during or after leaf fall
	Hom	40 gr per 10 l	During the growing season
fruit rot	Horus	2 - 3.5 gr per 10 l	Before flowering
	Topaz	2 ml per 10 l	After flowering
	Topsin	15 gr per 10 l	Two weeks after treatment with Topaz

Pests and their control

Aphid

Aphids are perhaps the most frequent intruder on peach trees. It settles on young shoots, sticking around them and sucking out the juices vital to the plant. The seedlings begin to hurt, dry, the leaves crumble. While the number of aphids is small - it is easy to crush it with gloved hands right on the spot, but if you show slowness, this pest will significantly increase its population, and then you will have to resort to potent pesticides, since weaker solutions will no longer have the desired effect.

Peach aphids can be green, orange, and yellow - the color changes, the essence remains

Weevils

Weevils damage buds, buds and flowers by gnawing out stamens, pistils and petals. Sometimes it spreads to young leaves. Small holes are created in the fruits for oviposition. They are carriers of the main fungal diseases of peach.

The surest action will be the chemical treatment of the tree before the buds swell. Good trapping belts are applied above the trunk, removing damaged buds (these usually show a brown top) and removing exfoliating and dead bark. Whitewashing the trunk with lime also makes a good contribution to the fight against weevils.

Weevils damage buds and spread fungal diseases

Ticks

Ticks are known for their ability, like aphids, to suck out all the useful and nutritious substances from a tree. They successfully winter in the bark at the base of large branches and in the warm period are able to weaken the plant so much that its shoots stop developing, dry out, the yield decreases significantly, the tree stops bearing fruit, and the leaves lose color and fall off.

Regular peach pruning, keeping the trunk circle clean, whitewashing the trunk and installing trapping belts help to cope with the tick. But also greater effect achieved with the use of drugs such as "Fitoverm", "Neoron", "Apollo" and "Karate".

Fruit mite indiscriminately attacks any fruit trees, including peach

fruit moth

Fruit moth delivers the most trouble in the form of a caterpillar, which in the spring is taken for buds, and then for young shoots. Since the pest gnaws out their core, the shoots begin to wither and die off, the tree may shed its leaves. One caterpillar is capable of destroying 5-6 shoots, which is already significant damage. AT adulthood caterpillars climb into dry leaves, bark or earth in the trunk circle.

Moth-damaged shoots are cut and burned. The same is done with carrion and root shoots. A good result is achieved with regular loosening of the soil and the imposition of trapping belts on the trunk and skeletal branches.

Fruit moth damages shoots, causing the tree to stop developing

Eastern codling moth

The eastern codling moth hibernates on damaged shoots, in cracks in the bark, and also under fallen leaves. Caterpillars feast on young shoots, small ovaries, and even peach pits that have not yet had time to harden. The codling moth, like aphids, is a carrier of various fungal diseases, including moniliosis, so you need to get rid of it immediately.

This is how peach fruits slightly damaged by the eastern codling moth look like

Table: pest control methods

Pest	Remedy for fighting	Dosage	Periodicity and frequency of treatments
Aphid	2% Bordeaux liquid	200 g of copper sulfate and 250 g of lime per 10 liters of water	Spray before winter
	1% Bordeaux liquid	100 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of lime per 10 liters of water	Treat before and after flowering
	Confidor	0.25 l per hectare	During bud formation
	Dandelion infusion	400 g of leaves and 200 g of stems with roots (collected during flowering) pour 10 liters of warm water. Infuse for two hours, strain and spray	During the growing season
Weevil	Lime milk for whitewashing	1.5 kg of freshly slaked lime per 10 l	Beginning of kidney swelling
	Fitoverm	2 ml per 10 l	During the growing season
	Fufanon	5 ml per 5 l (2 - 5 l per tree)	Spraying three times: green cone phase (beginning of bud break), end of flowering and ten days after it
Mite	colloidal sulfur	80 gr per 10 l	During the growing season from 1 to 6 treatments with a difference of one day
	Fitoverm	1.5 ml per 1 liter	During the growing season twice with a difference of two days
	Neoron	15 ml per 10 l (from 2 to 10 l per tree depending on age)	One treatment per season no later than 45 days before harvest
	Apollo	0.4 - 0.6 liters per hectare	Vegetation period, then at least 30 days before harvest
	Karate	5 ml per 10 l	During the growing season, two treatments with a difference of 20 days
fruit moth	Karbofos	30 gr per 10 l	During bud break
	Chlorophos	20 gr per 10 l	During bud break
Eastern codling moth	Benzophosphate	60 gr per 10 l	The treatment is carried out 3 times per season with a difference of 15 days between peach sprays, starting from the moment of spring emergence of butterflies and excluding flowering
	Chlorophos	20 gr per 10 l
	Rovikurt (25%)	10 gr per 10 l

A peach, as a fruit tree, is subject to the same diseases as an apple tree, pear, plum, and others, therefore, in some ways, measures to combat ailments in all cases turn out to be similar. The list of pests is somewhat different for peach, but in this case there are universal means which can be used for most fruit trees. By observing the indicated dosage and carrying out timely prevention, as well as acquiring varieties resistant to certain diseases and pests, you can avoid problems during cultivation and achieve a large harvest every year.

So, aphid is small insect, no larger than 3 mm. It is worth highlighting that the most widespread aphid of the following species:

blood;
aphid large peach;
green;
and black.

As a rule, if an aphid has settled on a peach tree, then the gardener will see the following:

the bloody appearance of aphids is very visually visible, since individuals tend to accumulate;
if aphids attack, then dark dots will be visible on the back of the foliage;
peach buds will be covered with secretions of this insect;
the tops of the pagons may begin to dry out and then die off;
spots first appear on the leaves, then they dry and curl;
in the very thick of the tree you can see the so-called fleas of a green or grayish color.

If an aphid attacks, then the culture completely stops developing fully, begins to weaken, while the yield decreases several times. Moreover, a diseased tree loses its resistance to frost.

What are the ways to fight

agrotechnical and mechanical methods;
fight with chemicals;
folk recipes.

Each of these methods can good result. Furthermore, seasoned gardeners strongly recommend that you first do not resort to drugs of chemical origin, but try to overcome the invasion with natural and available means.

Way of struggle: agrotechnical

As already described above, before arming yourself with a heavy arsenal and attacking uninvited guests, you can try several agricultural techniques that successfully help fight a small enemy, namely:

destroy all weeds growing around the peach;
cut the entire root thicket;
clean the remnants of the old bark, on the trunks and on the skeletal branches;
using a jet of water supplied from a hose, remove all aphids placed on the foliage;
plant green manure and herbs around the peach.

As a rule, these agricultural practices give a valid result. If it was not possible to solve the problem using these methods, then we arm ourselves with mechanical methods and proceed to the fight.

It is worth emphasizing that mechanical methods aphid control can only be used if the tree is relatively small. So, how to destroy aphids, ways:

knock down aphids with a broom;
destroy with a brush;
we tear off all the affected foliage and burn it behind the site.

Well, with the onset of autumn, we begin to dig the zone where peaches are planted. Then sprinkle well. trunk circle ash and top with boiling water. These methods have the following properties:

Fighting with chemicals

If the above methods did not help, and precious time was lost, you should resort to heavy artillery in the form of insecticides. First of all, it is worth emphasizing that such drugs retain their poisonous properties for 20 days. Therefore, in the case when the aphid attacked before the harvest itself, it is strictly forbidden to process with these means.

Of course, processing with chemicals is not desirable. But if it so happened that the army of the most dangerous insect was noticed too late, then only such means can save your crop.

Well, as for the name of the drugs, today there are a lot various means, among which are the following:

If aphids attack during bud formation, use Confidor.
In the event that aphids appeared during the formation of fruits, the Bi-58 solution will become indispensable. The only thing to keep in mind is that this tool is strictly forbidden to use during the ripening of peaches.
If the aphid of the black variety attacks, then Phosphamide will help the gardener.
Well, for the destruction of overwintered individuals, a remedy called DNOC solution is recommended.

At the same time, always remember one simple rule, it is not recommended to constantly process with the same tool.

Folk recipes to help

So, what are the ways to destroy aphids with improvised means:

Onion skin tincture

Then, the tightly sealed mixture is infused for two days and the peach is sprayed with the finished infusion. This procedure is repeated after two days. But as a rule, after the first spraying, the aphid dies or disappears from the tree.

Laundry soap

Pepper

And the third effective method of dealing with aphids called pepper platter. To do this, take a pack of red and black ground pepper and a pack of dry mustard. Everyone is well mixed, just do not forget to put on a mask and goggles in advance. The finished powder is poured with a bucket of water and everything is thoroughly stirred.

Then, the resulting solution is sprayed onto the tree. From such a tool, aphids will begin to die almost instantly.

The best remedy is prevention

In order not to look for options to combat this insect, regularly carry out preventive treatments in the front garden. To do this, use the following processing schedule:

after all the foliage has fallen, the peach culture is treated with Bordeaux mixture strictly according to the instructions;
before flowering, peach culture will need treatment with tizol;
after flowering, spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture.

It is worth noting that most gardeners are advised to keep a drug such as Actofita in a green medicine cabinet. It is mainly used together with laundry soap as an emergency aid for aphid attacks.

Conclusion

And one more tip from experienced gardeners: in order for the fight against aphids to be effective, before choosing a particular remedy, evaluate the damage caused to these insects. In this case, you can choose the right tool and minimize losses.

Peach trees can be attacked by garden pests (aphids, scale insects, codling moths, weevil, etc.).

Peach pests damage leaves and shoots, slow down development, destroy the crop and can lead to the death of the plant. To avoid this, you must:

timely detect the appearance of pests (each pest has its own handwriting, by which it can be calculated);
take appropriate action.

Pest control measures include certain agrotechnical actions ( autumn and spring digging, getting rid of fallen leaves, cleaning the bark, pruning shoots, spraying with milk of lime, setting traps, etc.) and chemical treatment peach from pests special preparations (For each type of pest, it is necessary to choose a specific insecticide.).

Important! Pesticides should be sprayed and mist - the smallest spray - the whole tree evenly. It is necessary to ensure that the solution gets on both sides of the sheet - the outer and inner, wet the bark (especially cracks).

Weevils and their larvae cause serious damage to the peach tree - they gnaw on young leaves, buds, damage young buds and flower ovaries (gnawing petals, pistils and stamens), and carry fungal diseases.

The fight against weevil includes, first of all, preventive measures (competent preventive actions will ensure reliable protection of the garden). Prevention is as follows:

viewing and checking the branches of garden trees, checking seedlings (especially the root ball of the earth);
competent planning of sites with crops vulnerable to weevils, in different parts garden;
autumn and spring digging of the earth around the peach, cleaning the old bark;
spring whitewashing with lime milk (1.5 kg of slaked lime per 10 liters of water) of the lower part of the trunk (during the swelling of the kidneys);
installation of a hunting belt on the trunk (from the ground to the first branch);
pre-spraying the buds with an aqueous mixture of laundry soap and mustard powder (can be replaced with wood ash);
planting garlic-onion beds around the peach (the pungent smell repels the weevil).

Did you know? Weevils are black-brown beetles ranging in size from 7 to 12 mm with a long proboscis (because of it, the insect is often called an elephant). They reproduce by parthenogenesis (only females live in our region). One female can lay up to 1000 eggs. Weevils hibernate in the soil, crawl out into the air in April, lay their eggs in May (in flower buds).

If pest prevention did not help, and the weevil still wound up, biological (natural) and chemical (insecticide) methods are most often used.

biological method safer for the plant and pollinating insects (bees):

If safe methods did not lead to the desired result, more radical means should be applied - spray the buds with insecticides.

The use depends on the preparation, but the first time must be treated a week before the opening of the flowers (preparations "Karachar", "Fitoferm", "Iskra M"), a number of preparations allow three times the application - before flowering, the last phase of flowering and 10 days after the end of flowering ("Fufanon", "Kemifos", "Novaktion", etc.).

Before use, read the instructions carefully. The usual fluid consumption is from 2 to 5 liters per tree.

Important! In order to avoid addiction of pests to an insecticide, it is not recommended to use the same one in a row, it is more expedient to use different preparations. If there are many trees, then before the first use, you need to test the effect of the product on one tree.

Ticks (red spider, common, etc.) feed on the juices of the plant and can not only reduce peach yields, but also destroy the tree.

A tick on a peach is practically invisible - its size is up to 1 mm. They live on the inner surface of leaves, fruits, shoots.

A signal of their presence is the appearance of cobwebs between the leaves, on the stems (on the cobweb threads, mites can be carried by the wind to other trees).

In hot summer, ticks breed especially quickly (from an egg to an adult - seven days). Ticks do not like rain, coolness and dampness.

Did you know? Ticks are a family of a subclass of Arthropods of the class Arachnids (8 five-membered legs, two pairs of eyes, a head fused with the chest, high adaptability). There are more than 50 thousand varieties of them in the world. Small sizes (from 0.4 to 1 mm) make it difficult to timely detect the pest.

Regular preventive measures (whitewashing the trunk, trapping belts, destruction fallen leaf etc.) reduce the risk of peach infection with a tick, but do not guarantee 100%.

Therefore, it is necessary to systematically inspect the leaves and branches of trees. If signs of ticks appear, take action. In an unopened case, it is possible to offer effective folk methods wrestling (without heavy chemistry). This is spraying:

tobacco solution. The solution is prepared from a kilogram of tobacco dust (sold in garden shops) and 20 liters of water (it is better to first dilute to a uniform state in a bucket), add 50 g of laundry soap (for better adhesion). You need to spray twice with a seven-day break;
chamomile infusion(insist 12 hours a kilogram of chamomile in a bucket of water). You also need to process twice with a week break.

If the tree has undergone a massive invasion of ticks, then insecticides and acaricides will come to the rescue. Spraying is carried out twice - after the appearance of the ovary and a month before harvesting (this will make it possible to destroy first the larvae and adults, and then hatched from the eggs).

The most effective means:

colloidal sulfur(per 10 l - 80 g) - processed during the growing season from 1 to 6 times (each subsequent treatment - every other day);
« Phytoferm"(per liter - 15 ml) - 2 times during the growing season (the second - after two days);
« Neoron"(per 10 l - 15 ml) - once 45 days before harvest;
« Karate"(per 10 l - 5 ml) - 2 times during the growing season (the second - after 20 days).

codling moth

Codling moths pose a serious threat to young shoots and to the crop (if the fight against these peach pests is too late, then all the fruits may die). Most often, peaches fall prey to oriental and plum codling moths.

The harm from the eastern codling moth comes down not only to damage to the fruit. Caterpillars devour young shoots, carry fungi (including ascomycete, which causes moniliosis). The first signs of pests are:

gum on young shoots, longitudinal cracks, their lethargy and death;
wormholes on the surface of peaches.

Did you know? Eastern codling moth is a lepidopteran butterfly (15 mm in length). The female is larger than the male. The wings are gray-brown, the body is dark. Homeland of butterflies - countries East Asia. The flight of butterflies lasts a month during the peach blossom period. More active in the evenings and early mornings. Eggs (from 100 to 200) are laid on shoot tips, buds (first generation females), sepals and stalks (second generation females). One generation lives from 24 to 40 days. During the season, up to 4 generations can pass, overlapping one another. They wait out the winter in cracks in the bark, under fallen leaves.

In the fight against the eastern codling moth, agrotechnical, natural and chemical means are used:

Important! During the flowering period peach trees treatment with insecticides is strictly prohibited. Other crops in the garden during the period of treatment of peaches with insecticides should be covered with a film.

Plum codling moth larvae infect peach fruits: they eat away the pulp and the core of the stone, break the vessels from the petiole (the influx of juices stops), the fetus begins to wither, sing prematurely and falls.

The first sign of the presence of a plum codling moth is massive fall of green peaches with wormholes, as well as the appearance of cobweb lumps on fruits and leaves.

Did you know? Plum codling moth appearance resembles oriental, has more large sizes(up to 2 cm). The flight of butterflies occurs at the end of May - beginning of June. The butterfly lives from 4 to 15 days, manages to sow up to 50 eggs for fruits. Caterpillars independently gnaw through the peach skin and take root in the fruit. During the season, two generations of codling moths have time to go through. Caterpillars hibernate in dense cocoons of cobwebs in the cracks of the bark, in the soil under the tree.

The protection of peach from these pests by agrotechnical and natural means is similar to that applied to the eastern codling moth. With a small number of pests, it is advisable to use the biological product "Bitoxibacillin" against each generation (40-80 g per 10 liters).

The use of chemicals has its own specifics:

processing is carried out until the appearance of caterpillars (when lumps of cobwebs appear) - "Intavir" (one tablet per 10 l);
against caterpillars of the second generation - "Fufanon", "Sumition", "Novaktion" (but not less than 30 days before harvesting).

mole

A serious threat to the buds, young shoots and leaves of peaches is the garden moth and its larvae (especially the miner moth and fruit striped moth).

The mining moth reduces the viability of the peach, inhibits growth, and reduces the yield of the plant. Signs of moth damage - premature yellowing and falling of leaves damaged by larvae. On the leaves there are characteristic spots-mines (in the form of tunnels, spots, etc.).

The mining moth has a size of about 4 mm. female moth with back side leaves lays up to 90 eggs, from which larvae hatch, gnaw mines in leaf plates (the skin is not damaged in this case). Miners hibernate in damaged bark, under fallen leaves.

In the fight against mining moths, an important role is played by the cleaning and destruction of fallen leaves, autumn whitewashing of the trunk, digging, washing off with a stream of water during the summer of butterflies.

Used as a natural insecticide red pepper tincture (boil for an hour, for 10 parts of water - 5 parts of pepper, then insist for a day).For 10 l - 125 ml of tincture, add 40 g of laundry soap. Spraying is carried out twice, with a gap of a week.

The use of these funds does not guarantee complete release from the pest, therefore, chemical preparations are used against moth pests of peach (for spraying leaves, applying to the soil, injection into the trunk).

These are drugs that affect the development of insects (Dimilin, Insegar, Match, etc.) and organophosphorus and organic insecticides (Bi-58 new, Zolon, Konfidor Maxi, etc.) of double use .

Fruit moth caterpillars are gluttonous (one caterpillar is capable of destroying 5-6 shoots), devouring buds, leaves, eating away the bones of young peaches. Caterpillars overwinter, climbing under the bark of a tree, in its folds, crawling out during the budding period.

The first butterflies appear in June, laying eggs at dusk. The ripening period is two weeks. At the end of August, butterflies of the second generation appear.

Among the methods of pest control, agrotechnical ones occupy a large place (pruning the affected branches and shoots, cleaning fallen leaves).

During bud formation, the peach crown can be sprayed with an emulsion with industrial oil 1-20A, "Karbofos" (for 10 l - 30 g) or "Chlorophos" (for 10 l - 20 g). During oviposition, foliage can be processed chemicals based on fenoxycarb, and the task of how to get rid of moths on a peach will temporarily recede into the background.

Aphid

Aphid is a sucking insect. With the defeat of aphids, young shoots wither, dry, lose leaves, the tree begins to hurt. Signs of the presence of aphids:

accumulations of aphids (buds, bottom of leaves, young shoots);
sticky liquid (pad) covering the leaves;
twisting the tops of the shoots;
the formation of buds and fruits stops;
a large number of ants (they are attracted by honeydew).

Important! With the timely detection of aphids, it is easy to deal with it - remove it with your hands, wash it off with soapy water, etc. If time is lost, you will have to use strong pesticides.

Green, black and striped peach aphids pose a particular threat to peaches.

light green insects small size(1.5 mm), form colonies. Especially great harm is done by green aphids to young seedlings: it pierces the leaf with its proboscis and sucks out the juices (the leaves become discolored, curled, fall off, the flowers crumble, the seedlings can dry out).

Damaged shoots freeze in winter, mushrooms settle on the honeydew, wood borer beetles appear on weakened trees.

You need to start destroying aphids with softer methods for a peach tree:

agrotechnical: cutting down root shoots, weeding or mowing vegetation, stripping bark, removing aphids by hand or with a strong stream of water;
biological: use of natural enemies of aphids ( ladybugs, wasps, hoverflies, etc.). Planting nettles, onions, herbs and others. In addition, effectively ( in the early stages) the use of decoctions and infusions of dandelions ( 400 g of leaves insist 2 hours in 10 liters warm water ), garlic ( 300 g chopped garlic in 10 liters of water, leave for 20 minutes), onion peel ( 150 g of husk per 10 liters of water, leave for 5 days, add 50 g of laundry soap) and etc.;
chemical: spraying pesticides. In autumn - Bordeaux liquid (2%), in spring, before or after flowering - Bordeaux liquid (1%), a mixture of thiazole and fostiol, "Dipterex". With the advent of fruits - "Bi-58 New", "Aktofit" ( 8 ml per liter of water), etc. In spring, aphids can be destroyed after winter with the help of DNOK ( every two years).

The striped aphid on a peach sucks the juice from the bark and shoots (the bark becomes sticky), the leaves on the upper shoots turn, turn red and fall off.