Artificial aging of wood. Synthetic wood - reasonable savings. How to paint wood correctly? Paints for wood and rules for their use. wood Antiseptic wood treatment

Sep - 28
2015

Wood is a popular building material

Beautiful type of wood- this is always popular building material or decor accent.

Features such as rustic ceiling beams are now returning to the style after a long hiatus. However, natural hard wood, is charming, but not always the most practical or affordable option.

Take a good long look at the new artificial forest – it is best choice for your floor, floors, decorative beams or project panel.

Here's an interesting one scientific fact Faux Wood: What most people think of as "fake" quality contains a high percentage of real wood, usually in the form of recycled pre-consumer waste. It may be surprising but it is an eco-friendly type of alternative.

Flooring

The most common type of artificial wood is used as flooring one of them is laminate. It consists of multiple layers, including a moisture barrier on the bottom surface, a layer of recycled wood fiber, a hardwood veneer and a melamine finish on top.

Laminate has quite a few advantages. It costs significantly less than wood hardwood, which makes it economical for your budget.

Decks and railings

Artificial wood Outdoor living spaces such as decks, balconies and railings are cheaper and easier to install than conventional wood. Heavier to wear and longer, it stands up to heat and cold, as well as rain and other forms of precipitation. And of course it's not appetizing to termites. natural wood. 🙂

Decorative ceiling beams

Ceiling beams are coming back into fashion from the distant past. These are decorative touches, along with the fireplace. Mantels, siding, and exterior walls or ceilings can give your home the look of a log cabin or Shakespeare. half-timbered houses Tudor.

Artificial wood can imitate various high-quality types of lumber.

Artificial Wood Beams and the panels are inexpensive, easy to lift and install. They can be cut with a simple hacksaw; can also be painted to suit any taste.

The downside to this type of faux wood is that they are typically made from vinyl or polyurethane. They have been poorly criticized in the past for their tendency to off-gas, compromising indoor air quality and causing health problems such as difficulty breathing, etc.

is a long and painstaking process consisting of mechanical processing of wood and working with paint and varnish materials. This finishing method is associated with leon42, a participant in the “Home and Dacha” forum, with naturalness, antiquity, and folk culture.

According to leon42, buying furniture and brushing it with a metal brush does not make it old, but simply scratches it or, in best case scenario, make a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of slats and “skinny” - is not suitable for texturing; it looks rather sad and defective.

leon42 believes that furniture for brushing should be rough and massive, capable of conveying natural beauty tree.

It is precisely the superficial approach to aging wood, according to a forum member, that forms in many people the opinion of products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims.” Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like they are in the Middle Ages.

Under natural conditions, wind and moisture, sun and temperature changes “work” on the aging of wood. How to do something that takes many decades to do in a few days?

Preparation of material

For brushing, it is better to use soft and medium-hard wood with a pronounced texture, for example, spruce, pine or larch. In these types of wood, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when intensive growth of growth rings occurs, and they are more “loose”.

Wood with a uniform and unexpressed texture, such as beech and maple, is not suitable for aging.

Before working with wood, you should prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, be it traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the tinting composition. Treat any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) after disassembling them: you will spend less time and can reach everywhere with a brush.

Brushing

Brushing (English brush - “brush”), or texturing wood, is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. At the initial stage, soft fibers are removed from solid wood. There are several processing options: light aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of the unevenness reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).

Can any detail, say, ceiling beam, pre-process with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling - no one but you knows what the result should be. In this case, you will receive a product with a deep micro-relief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.

Don’t forget about the “traces” of the vital activity of bugs and worms. imitate them before finishing using a drill or drill. You can also apply simple carving elements: braids, dragons, etc. – you will get “Scandinavian style”.

Sanding: tools and brushes

Large enterprises use machines and automatic lines, where everything is provided - from the feed speed of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is an expensive and, in general, unnecessary pleasure. If you will be doing this kind of work often, it is better to purchase a brush machine. The most common and widely available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a grinder or drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.

The entire brushing process can be divided into three stages:

1. Rough selection of soft fibers
2. Grinding
3. Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage ( brushing) use metal (brushing). If you are making structures for the street - a gazebo, canopy, fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.

When processed with a metal brush, scratches may remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.

When working with brush, you must adhere to the following rules:

• move the brush along the fibers, otherwise you will damage the annual rings and spoil the wood grain;
• the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure must be approximately the same, otherwise pits will form;
• the light source should be placed on the side at an acute angle, directing the light beam across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface being treated;
• do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the motor, otherwise this may cause premature equipment failure;
• the rpm speed should not be higher than 3000, preferably 2000–2500: the brush can quickly fly apart;
• be sure to wear glasses and do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly several meters away, injuring others;
• take care of respiratory protection and dust removal: during this work, even your eyelashes become covered with “mealy mascara”, let alone your lungs;
• the new brush needs to be “run in”, otherwise it will strongly “whack” the workpiece, after a while it will begin to treat the surface cleaner;
• work only in one direction (rotation), do not turn on reverse - this will “kill” the metal brush;
• The humidity of the wood being treated should not exceed 15%, otherwise instead of a textured surface you will get a shaggy-hairy surface.

When processing stable and hard wood (larch, oak), be sure to use dust removal systems: the dust from these types of wood is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.

If you want get rid of lint and get a better finish, you will need another brush - plastic (nylon), or more correctly - a grinding disc made of polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

An abrasive brush is a universal one, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal one, especially if the element being processed needs delicate processing or if you want to avoid the specific scratches left by brushes.

The principle of working with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the speed to 1500 to extend the life of the brush. The dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and stickier, so don’t forget about a respirator.

Surface treatment specifics:

• do not sand the edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to varnish them later: they will cling and chip;
• do not make deep relief on seats, tabletops and other horizontal surfaces - they will make it difficult to clean the surface: spilled drink stains, crumbs, etc. will get clogged between the fibers;
• In order to prevent clogging of dust and snags of the rag during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of brushing is polishing or fine grinding: performed with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, and steel wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, they do tinting (changing the color of the wood by several tones), patination (emphasizing the texture of the wood with special compounds that penetrate the pores opened during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), and varnishing.

After brushing, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give her old look, it is coated with various compositions, dark colors look more natural.

Exactly correct game with the color of brushed wood gives it an aged look. Plots with soft wood(pores or depressions) are unevenly painted in a darker color, with solid ones (ridges) - in a lighter color. IN lately Popular options are those with light troughs and darker ridges.

The easiest way is to liberally apply dark stain and immediately wipe the area with a rag or wide rubber spatula. In theory, the stain should absorb quickly into the soft surface, but more slowly on the ridges. However, in practice this often does not work out, so leon42 stopped at more in a complicated way: After complete drying, the ridges are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further treatment with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the exposed top layer remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use paint of two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the latter is drying, run a wide rubber spatula, removing excess paint and exposing the ridges of the first layer.

Proper texturing is a simple but messy, time-consuming and unhealthy process.

As a result of difficult and hard work, you will receive decorative elements that carry the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high durability. Every detail made with love with my own hands, will be unique.

Based on materials from a participant in the "House and Dacha" forum

Editor: Olga Travina

Silk, leather, bone and horn have been used by people for centuries. In essence, they are all composites consisting of thin fiber and a resinous binder. Unlike artificial ones, natural composites have a much thinner and more complex structure.

In many respects, natural materials are superior to their artificial counterparts. An interesting study was conducted at the Biomimetics Center at the University of Reading in the UK. Longitudinal study natural materials was aimed at a detailed study of their microstructure, which would significantly improve the quality of artificial composites if it was possible to reproduce the structure of natural materials. For 20 years, research into the mechanical characteristics of wood and other lignin-containing plants has been carried out in the laboratories of the University of Reading.

Wood is a natural composite, in the structure of which four levels of organization can be distinguished: molecular, fibrillar, cellular and macroscopic. The main chemical component of wood is cellulose, the molecule of which in turn consists of many sugar molecules connected in a chain. These molecules are grouped into microfibrils containing varying numbers of sugar-based molecules such as hemicellulose.

The binder for these oxen is the phenolic polymer lignin. Cellulose fibrils form the walls of wood cells, tubular structures with a diameter of 0.1 millimeters and a length of several millimeters. The complex tubular structure of wood cells gives the wood high strength.

A clearly distinguishable spiral structure is observed in the structure of tree cells. The tensile strength of both softwood and hardwood is approximately 10 times higher than that calculated based on the assumption that tensile pulls the cellulose out of the resinous binder. In fact, when a wood sample is stretched along the length, the tubular structures stretch elastically, gaps are formed in the cell walls between the turns of the spiral, but the cellulose molecules themselves remain intact and withstand the load.

You can depict this process by stretching a spiral-twisted strip of paper or a straw. Tree cells can stretch up to 20 percent. This is what gives the tree its strength. And since this increase in strength is determined not by the chemical composition, but by structural parameters, it can be reproduced for other materials.

Initially, attempts to reproduce the structure of wood used cylindrical tubes made of spirally wound glass fiber impregnated with a thermosetting resin. Maximum tensile strength was achieved when the angle of winding was 15 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the wood cage.

Another technology, borrowed from the production of corrugated cardboard, turned out to be easier and cheaper. Corrugated surfaces were formed from sheets of glass fiber impregnated with resin with parallel ridges so that the ridges were located at an angle of 15 degrees to the corrugation ribs. The molded sheets were then stacked one on one, thus simulating the long hollow cells of wood with spirally arranged cellulose molecules.

Mechanical tests have shown that engineered wood behaves like real wood under load and combines high impact resistance, tensile strength and low weight. Artificial wood has been measured to be the strongest known artificial material.
The results of this research make it possible to create materials that have specified strength characteristics, such as resistance to the impact of a massive body moving at low speed, the impact of a knife, as well as bulletproofness. Corrugated composite panels can be made from carbon fiber, kevlar, glass fiber, or a mixture thereof, impregnated with epoxy resin.

The experiment examined panels with twisted and parallel fiber structures. The orientation of the fibers in a certain direction, leading to different strength indicators along different axes of the samples, was neutralized by gluing the panels together like plywood.

The strength characteristics of the resulting composite depend on the angle of the fibers, the size of the corrugation and the thickness of the sheet in relation to the size of the holes. Upon impact, energy is distributed over a large area and absorbed. The strength of the material after impact does not decrease significantly; it can be reused.

Igor PRIVALOV

Construction and real estate

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Wood is beautiful material, from which various interior elements are made. It can be decorated in different ways. One of the popular techniques is wood aging. This is a rather complicated process that requires certain knowledge from the master.

Expert advice will help you figure out how to do this processing yourself. Aging of wood can be carried out in several ways. After considering all the techniques, you can choose the best option.

Why do you need to age wood?

Wood aging is carried out according to various reasons. This technology allows you to give the material the required decorative qualities. With the help of such finishing you can design certain interior styles. To save money on the purchase of antique, exquisite and very expensive decorative elements, technology is used artificial aging natural material.

The choice of such finishing may also be caused by the individual preferences of the home owners. If they want to decorate the interior of their home with just such products, artificial aging of wood will provide a wide field for creativity. Give the material the necessary appearance will be easy using the methods presented below.

There are several approaches that help give wood the necessary decorative qualities. Certain materials and tools are used for them. The master will also need a sufficient amount of free time. Rushing in this case can lead to unsatisfactory results.

Mechanical aging of wood

There are various methods aging of wood. They allow you to give the array a certain appearance. One of the most popular approaches is mechanical aging. It is also called brushing or texturing. Wooden surface processed using a special brush. This allows you to stylize the material, giving it an antique appearance.

Brushing wood involves removing the “pulp” from the structure. This gives relief to the workpiece. It is this process that occurs with wood over a long period of time. It dries out under the influence of various environmental factors.

Experienced craftsmen claim that this is one of the most simple ways wood processing. However, it is not always possible to apply this approach in practice. It depends on the characteristics of the wood species. Also, with this method it is possible to obtain a relief surface. In some cases, it is better to decorate the interior with other types of treated wood.

Features of mechanical aging

Brushing wood may not be used for all types of natural material. This method is suitable for processing almost all coniferous varieties, especially pine trees. Brushing is also used for larch, walnut, ash and oak. These are the most popular types of wood that are used today in construction and decoration.

Mechanical aging is not carried out for fruit varieties of natural material. Also, this technology is not used for processing beech, maple, teak, row exotic species wood They are rarely used for finishing work. That's why mechanical method is so popular.

To carry out the treatment you will need to prepare a special brush. It has a metallic “pile”. The procedure requires a sufficient amount of free time. There is no hurry. Otherwise, you can ruin the appearance of the array. This method can be used to age small pieces. For extensive work, it is necessary to use a grinder, drill or special machine.

Manual brushing

Aging wood with your own hands requires a certain concentration from the master. The material must be dry. Otherwise, it will not be possible to provide the required decorative surface. Bullies will appear. Brush along dry wood along the grain. To make the pile tougher, it can be trimmed.

As a result of such manipulations, it is possible to remove the softest fibers from the external structure of the array. After this, the grinding process is carried out. To do this, use a brush with finer bristles or coarse-grit sandpaper.

After this treatment, the array can be painted. For this, stain is most often used. This allows you to create the desired shade. Other dyes can be used. The appearance of the finish will depend on the correct execution of this stage. This is followed by polishing and varnishing. This allows you to protect natural material from rotting. The surface is coated with varnish several times.

Machine processing

To process a large volume of material, it is necessary to use special equipment. This could be a grinder or an electric drill. A special wire attachment is put on the angle grinder. The work must be carried out carefully so as not to damage the material.

A wood aging machine can also be used. Such equipment is most often used in enterprises. When using it, it is possible to achieve high speed and quality of aging of wood masses. Roughing takes just a few minutes. At this time, small soft fibers are removed.

Wood processing machines are purchased only if it is necessary to process large volumes of materials. The most popular variety is the Festool Rustofix RAS 180 unit. The Makita 974 sanding machine, which includes an abrasive brush, is also used for self-processing wood.

Chemical aging

Artificial aging of wood can be done using other technology. During the processing process, the array is cleaned with coarse sandpaper. Then they begin chemical aging. If you need to treat hardwood, you can use an ammonia solution. You can also use ammonia. It contributes to the darkening of the array.

You can simply clean the surface slightly to highlight the growth rings more clearly. After this, stain and varnish are used. There is another method. One more possible option chemical aging is the use of water-based stain. When the desired shade is obtained, the composition is washed off with a sponge and water. This emphasizes the contours of the rings, making the edges darker.

Another option is patting. This is the most complex and highly decorative treatment. In this case, it opens the pores against a more even surface. For this purpose special chemical compositions. They can be purchased in specialized stores.

Heat treatment

Thermal wood aging technology is another way to give wood an antique appearance. The procedure is carried out in several stages. First, firing is carried out over the entire surface of the material. It is also possible to perform treatment only on certain areas. This also adds a decorative touch to the finish. Best used for these purposes gas burner. Before starting work, you need to practice on an unnecessary piece of wood.

Firing will remove all soft fibres. After this, the knots and annual rings of the wood appear more clearly. Next is produced machining. Carbon deposits must be removed using a brush with metal bristles. This will also increase the relief of the pattern.

Dry brush method

Another relatively uncomplicated approach is to dry brush aging wood. To carry it out you will need to use your imagination. First, scratches, gouges, and chips are created on the material. You can skip this step, since this processing is irreversible.

First, one layer of paint is applied to the surface, and then a second. Then they should dry well. Next, use fine sandpaper to remove the top layer of paint. This needs to be done unevenly. In some places the wear should extend to the first coat of paint, and in others to the wood. Particular attention should be paid to protruding parts and edges.

Next, paint is applied using a dry brush. You need to choose a flat, hard brush. The paint should be contrasting. If the base is light, the top layer should be dark. The paint should look like a bristle mark. Strokes cannot be crossed. Next, fresh strokes are lubricated with a cloth. Then apply transparent varnish. It is applied in 2 layers.

Wood restoration

Another type of wood aging is its restoration. This must be done if the appearance of the decor is lost. First you need to clean the surface. Next, the wood is covered acrylic paint in 2 layers. Then the protruding surfaces are rubbed with paraffin. They are painted in the required shade. Then, after drying, the areas treated with paraffin are cleaned off. The final finishing is carried out using varnish.

Having considered the features of wood aging, you can create the necessary decor yourself.

Currently, the following groups of thermal wood consumers can be distinguished:

Construction companies performing finishing work– the use of thermal wood in the finishing of luxury real estate;

Construction companies specializing in wooden house construction - using glued or solid thermal timber as a frame element or wall material;

Designers – finishing of interiors and exteriors of serviced objects;

Specialists landscape design– decking, lining of water spaces, small architectural forms, furniture, etc.;

Trading companies – wholesale and retail sales for repair and finishing works;

Furniture manufacturers – production of garden and home furniture from thermowood;

Professionals in the field of woodworking, they buy thermal wood for personal needs: building gazebos, terraces, laying floors in their own homes.

The main consumers of thermowood can be considered construction organizations that use thermowood as a finishing material at luxury facilities commercial real estate(offices, hotels). In addition, as long as the material is innovative for the market, it will be in demand among interior designers and landscape designers.

Antiseptic wood treatment

If there is any brickwork, which came into contact with fungal formations or affected wood, then it must be cleaned of fungus and rot and burned with a blowtorch or subjected to antiseptic treatment.

Antiseptic treatment consists of twice brushing all surfaces and ends with a hot (at least 70-80° C) water solution of sodium fluoride (or replacing one percent with fluoride-silico), and each time the treated surface of the wood is dried. Since this solution is colorless and leaves no traces after drying, for control it is necessary to add some bright paint, for example a mummy.

Consumption of sodium fluoride per 1 time per 1 sq. m area - about 15 g.

In the absence of sodium fluoride, it can be replaced with fluoride, but with the indispensable addition of soda ash. This solution is prepared in the following way. For 76 liters of water heated to 30-40°, take 1.8 kg of soda fluoride; after dissolving it, carefully add 2.32 kg of soda ash and then 5 g of dye in parts.

It must be remembered that the specified antiseptic is important only when it is applied to more or less dry wood, which is not subject to moisture in the future, and also when it does not come into contact with lime and chalk, since in this case sodium fluoride turns into an insoluble compound and loses its antiseptic properties.

With the described antiseptic method, the water-soluble antiseptic penetrates the wood no deeper than 2-3 mm. For deeper penetration of the antiseptic, they resort to treating individual elements in hot-cold baths, pressure impregnation and, finally, a diffuse method of protecting wood using antiseptic pastes. The last of these methods is the simplest and most accessible in practice. It is based on the diffusion of fluoride water-soluble antiseptics into wood with significant humidity, and the antiseptic penetrates quite deeply and ensures the safety of not only unaffected raw wood, protected from the ingress of droplet-liquid moisture, but also affected by the process of decay.

This antiseptic method consists of applying an antiseptic to the surface of any wooden parts in the form of a thin layer of a semi-liquid mass consisting of a fluoride compound (as an antiseptic), an adhesive and water. The antiseptic, exposed to the action of water contained in the wood, slowly goes into solution, gradually penetrates the wood and eventually permeates it to a considerable depth. Such wood is firmly protected from damage by house fungi.

There are several antiseptic pastes, the name of which depends on the adhesive they contain, namely:

a) extract - with an adhesive base in the form of sulfite-alcohol stillage or extract of sulfite liquors;

b) bitumen - with an adhesive base in the form of low-melting bitumen;

c) silicate - with an adhesive base in the form of liquid soda glass;

d) clayey - with binder base in the form of exhumed liquid clay with the addition of sulfite-alcohol stillage.

Without entering detailed description All these pastes, we will focus on extract as the most often used in practice.

The best methods of combating all wood destroyers - house mushrooms and borer beetles - are methods of chemical protection of wood, i.e., the use of pesticides that are lethal to fungi and borer beetles.

Antiseptic treatment of wood (chemical protection) during renovation of residential and public buildings carried out mainly by two methods: deep impregnation wood with diffusion pastes and surface treatment with aqueous solutions of antiseptics.

The main antiseptics approved for use in residential and civil buildings, are water-soluble compounds - sodium fluoride and sodium fluoride.

Sodium fluoride is a white (to gray) powder. Its solubility in hot water ranges from 3 to 4.5%. It is highly toxic to house fungi, easily penetrates wood, does not cause metal corrosion, and is one of the most common and frequently used construction antiseptics.

Sodium silicofluoride is similar to sodium fluoride. Its solubility in cold water equal to 0.65%, and in boiling water - 2.4%. Sodium silicofluoride mixed with soda is a good antiseptic. It is stable, non-volatile, non-flammable and less deficient than sodium fluoride, and therefore can be widely used, especially in combination with alkaline additives.

Numerous laboratory tests and long-term observations of treated wood at repair work and on new construction they showed that the AEG-2 preparation, although it does not penetrate deeply into the surface layers of wood, does not leach for a long time and protects wooden structures well from wood pests for several years.

The positive properties of the emulsion preparation of shale generator resin also include the fact that it does not interfere with the drying process of wood, does not increase moisture capacity and hygroscopicity, reduces the flammability of wood and does not cause metal corrosion. Antiseptic-treated wood has a dark brown color, which makes it easy to control the quality of antiseptic work.

The disadvantages of this antiseptic include the odor it emits, the severity of which gradually decreases and completely disappears within a month after treating the wood.

When surface treating wood, water-soluble antiseptics penetrate the wood no deeper than 2-3 mm. For deeper penetration of the antiseptic, they resort to processing individual elements prepared in advance for the construction or repair of a building in hot-cold baths and to the diffusion method of protecting wood using various antiseptic pastes.

The diffusion method of wood protection is simple and accessible in practice. It is based on the diffusion (absorption) of fluoride water-soluble antiseptics into wood with significant humidity, while the antiseptic penetrates quite deeply and ensures the safety of not only unaffected raw wood, protected from the ingress of droplet moisture, but also affected by the process of decay.

This antiseptic method consists of applying an antiseptic to the surface of any wooden parts in the form of a thin layer of a semi-liquid mass consisting of a fluoride compound (like an antiseptic), binder and water. The antiseptic, exposed to the action of water contained in the wood, slowly goes into solution, gradually penetrates the wood and eventually permeates it to a considerable depth. Such wood will be quite well protected from damage by house fungi.

Using the diffusion method, structural elements made of raw wood with an initial humidity of 40% or higher or elements whose moisture is inevitable during operation are antiseptic (pillars and chairs in the part buried in the ground; ends wooden beams embedded in brick walls).

Based on the type of astringent base, the following antiseptic pastes are produced:

a) extract - with an astringent base in the form of solid or liquid concentrates of sulfite-alcohol stillage;

b) clay - with a binder base in the form of exhumed fatty clay, with the addition of sulfite-alcohol stillage or bitumen grade II or III;

c) bitumen - with a binder base in the form of fusible bitumen;

d) pastes - with an astringent base in the form of coal varnish (kuzbasslak).

Antiseptic pastes are produced in two grades: grade “100” - with an antiseptic content of at least 100 g/m2 of the treated wood surface and grade “200” - with an antiseptic content of at least 200 g/m2 of the treated wood surface.

Do-it-yourself artificial aging of wood

Many masters secrets DIY wood aging they are not given to anyone. But if you try to depict the technology in general terms, it can be divided into the following stages:

1. Mechanical surface treatment by planing (cutters, plane, axe, drilling, hand carving).
2. Grinding the surface of a part (brushing) with metal brushes, polymer abrasives, grinding brushes, and disc grinding wheels.
3. Finishing operations (applying dyes, intermediate sanding, varnishing, waxing, patination).

All processed products, be it furniture, flooring, parts interior design or exterior finishing, require not only an individual approach when choosing technology, but also must take into account the artistic requirements of the customer. for artificial aging of wood have the following differences:

1. According to the dimensions of the processed parts, which can be furniture parts, carpentry construction products, .
2. By the number of spindles carrying the processing tool, which can be stationary or oscillating along different axes. The rotation speed of the tool can be constant or adjustable within a specified range.
3. It is possible to use several types of tools in various combinations.
4. The transport system in combination with the pinch roller system also has several options and must meet the required performance and safety regulations regarding reliable retention processed parts.
5. The electronic control system of the machine must provide necessary adjustment speeds of movement of the moving components of the machine, as well as its protection in case of overloads, short circuits and other reasons.

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Main properties of heat-treated wood:

Moisture repellency – the ability of heat-treated wood to absorb moisture is significantly reduced. High moisture resistance. The equilibrium moisture content of heat-treated wood is 4 - 6%. Dimensional stability under changes in humidity and ambient temperature. Swelling and shrinkage as a result of changes in humidity are reduced. Absolute resistance to biological damage - due to high processing temperatures, polysaccharides decompose in wood, which, against the background of low equilibrium humidity, eliminates the conditions for the emergence and proliferation of fungi and microorganisms. The durability of products made from such wood increases by 15 - 25 times. Biodamaging agents (insects and their larvae, bacteria, fungi and their spores) are destroyed. The color becomes more saturated and uniform throughout the entire cross-section, and the wood texture is effectively revealed. The effect of valuable wood species is achieved, and under certain conditions - the effect of artificial aging. Absolute ecological cleanliness. Easy to care for. Decreases specific gravity lumber. Thermal conductivity decreases. Thermal insulating properties are increased.

What are the types of wood defects and their characteristics?

Deviations from the norm in the structure of a tree trunk, appearance and shape, as well as a violation of the physical condition and damage to wood, reducing its quality and possibility of use, are called wood defects.
All these deviations are formed in a growing tree mainly due to unfavorable climatic conditions, accidental mechanical damage and natural aging.
Characteristic defects in the shape of the trunk are: curvature, burrowing, swarms, growths.
The main defects of wood include: knots, cross-grain, curl, heel, double core, internal sapwood, false heartwood, sprouts, cracks, resin pockets, tar, cancer, wormholes, rot.

Photo Bog oak

Curvature of the trunk along the axis of the tree. It can be simple (the trunk has one bend) or complex (the trunk has several bends in different directions).

Buttiness is characterized by a strong thickening or increase in the diameter of the butt in relation to the tree trunk. When making boards from this part of the trunk, large waste is inevitable. The resulting material when sawing is of low quality, as it appears large number cut fibers.

Revealed by longitudinal depressions in the butt part of the trunk. The cross cut of the end of the log looks star-shaped with a wavy arrangement of growth rings. When cutting into boards, most of the trunk is discarded as waste, since such boards warp greatly and have reduced strength.

Local sharp thickening of the trunk various shapes and sizes, in most cases they are found on deciduous trees - birch, maple, alder, oak, etc. There are two types of growths - burls and burls.

This is an internal disease of the tree, accompanied by growths with smooth surface, are more often found on the butt part of the tree.

Expressed by a more relief surface; when cleared of bark, the relief appears in the form of drops.
The wood of growths is very difficult to process, but it has a beautiful curled texture.
Widely used in manufacturing art products, when covering furniture with veneer.

Knots are found in all wood species; this is the most inevitable defect of wood. They represent the base of the branches enclosed in the wood of the trunk. Bitches always stand out more dark color and increased strength compared to the wood itself. This defect worsens the quality, appearance, structure of wood, and complicates mechanical processing.
The place where the knot is located is always noticeable, and this reduces the artistic value of the piece. But many masters use this vice for good. Healthy knots, without rot, with certain cuts and long-term processing, have a picturesque texture and can serve as a background for products or as material for work.

The cross-layer is a pronounced oblique (helical) arrangement of fibers in the wood relative to the longitudinal axis of the trunk. The cross-layer causes warping (twisting) of the boards.

Curling in wood is expressed by a wavy and tangled arrangement of fibers, most often found on deciduous trees in the butt part of the trunk. Curling increases the strength of wood and the beauty of its texture, but makes it difficult to process and is difficult to carve. Karelian birch is distinguished by its very strong curl, which is why it is so highly valued.

Heel often forms in the wood of twisted and inclined trunks. The heel disrupts the homogeneity of the wood structure, reduces strength, and contributes to strong longitudinal warping of boards and beams.

The double core is clearly visible when the trunk is cut crosswise at the bifurcation site. The end of the tree in this place usually has an oval shape. Often there is a closed growth (overgrown bark) between two cores. Unusual shape sawing together with a textured pattern can give an interesting decorative effect.

Internal sapwood is a group of annual rings-layers located in the heartwood, having the color, properties and structure of sapwood. At the end of the trunk it is clearly expressed in the form of one or several rings different widths, lighter than the wood core. This defect is observed in the trunks of deciduous trees, especially oak and ash.

The false nucleus is dark in color different shades the inner part of the trunk, occurring in birch, alder, maple, etc. The false core can be round, eccentric, star-shaped or lobed. From sapwood l.i. differs in darker color.

Sprouts are completely or partially dry wood or bark. Sprouting occurs as a result of external damage to the tree and significantly reduces the strength of the wood. It can be closed or open.

Cracks in tree trunks occur as a result of wood breaking along the grain. They are formed from shrinkage, frost damage, frostbite - an internal crack between adjacent annual layers. The crack can also be metic – formed inside the trunk along a radius or diameter.

A resin pocket is a small cavity between layers in softwood wood, filled with resin.

Destruction of wood by larvae and beetles eating the bast layer of the tree of freshly cut unbarked timber. When clearing wood of bark, traces of insect activity are clearly visible in the form of passages and grooves of various shapes and configurations. The wormhole can be superficial, when the beetles make passages in the bark and phloem layer; deep and shallow, when the passages of wood beetles penetrate several centimeters in depth or even pierce through the wood.

Rot occurs in dead, dead and felled wood under the influence of wood-destroying fungi. In the initial stage of decay, an abnormal color for wood appears, mechanical strength changes, and gradually the wood collapses, turning into dust.

Develops in the core of the trunk of a growing tree. Infection in the form of bacteria and fungi penetrates the trunk and roots through broken branches and other wounds and destroys the tree. Internal rotten rot affects the wood so much that it turns into powder or is torn out in tufts of fibers. Rotten rot occurs in wood of all species.

Tools

New technology for heat treatment of wood

The Russian company Barkett has created its own technology for heat treatment of wood. Its essence is that wood is processed in a closed chamber at high temperatures, humidity and pressure. As a result, the material changes its physical and chemical properties: it becomes resistant to decay, the effects of bacteria, fungi and insects, and does not swell when exposed to high humidity and even when immersed in water. Its thermal insulation properties also improve. Conifers completely deprived of resin. Hardness and strength change - in most species they decrease, but in ash and oak they increase.
The moisture content of the finished wood is only 2–5%. Both hard and soft species are subjected to heat treatment - pine, spruce, birch, aspen, beech, oak, etc. The raw material can be used as already dried traditional way, and raw, freshly sawn wood (it is pre-dried using steam). Depending on the selected processing mode (there are four in total), ready material takes on shades from light (cream and sand) to dark brown and even black.
Heat-treated wood products can be used for interior and exterior finishing buildings, in baths, saunas and swimming pools, for the construction of yachts and boats, the manufacture of garden furniture and paving paths.

Thermowood and its main features

Thermowood - unique material, which in the very near future will begin to displace conventional wood. Try thermowood in use and you will understand the difference. Created by you wooden structure will not lose its shape, will not dry out or swell.
Until recently, the most common technique for changing the properties of wood was chemical wood treatment. However, due to the harmfulness of the resulting product, from the beginning of 2004 the European Union introduced a ban on the use of chemically treated wood. In this regard, the world is currently actively developing various technologies heat treatment of wood, which is the only alternative to chemical treatment and leads to a significant improvement in the properties of wood, which opens up new areas of its application.

Steam stabilization technology - modern technology, using a natural thermochemical reaction and superheated water vapor at temperatures up to 230 °C without adding any chemicals.

Due to high processing temperatures, hemicelluloses decompose in wood, which, against the background of low equilibrium humidity, eliminates the conditions for the emergence and proliferation of fungi and microorganisms.

As a result of molecular changes in the structure of wood, primarily due to the depolymerization of cellulose and an increase in its crystallinity, the wood is stabilized - its chemical resistance and stability of geometric dimensions increase, that is, heat treatment leads to protection from deformation (including “swelling” and “drying”) with changes in humidity and ambient temperature.

Heat treatment gives ordinary wood unusual decorative properties, the texture of the wood is effectively revealed. Moreover, the shade that wood acquires as a result of heat treatment is caused not by tinting, but by changes in the wood itself under the influence of high temperatures, and the color of the wood is uniform throughout the entire cross-section. Depending on the specified heat treatment mode, you can achieve different colors wood (from light beige and golden to dark brown).

Heat treatment gives each breed extraordinary expressiveness. Space opens up for creative imagination. Although heat-treated wood products usually do not require additional treatment, oiling or varnishing adds an interesting decorative effect. Fans of artificially aged wood should also like thermowood. For example, thermal oak, under a certain heat treatment regime, looks aged without any chemical treatment. At the same time, the wood remains absolutely environmentally friendly.

Absolute environmental cleanliness. Heat-treated wood is a 100% environmentally friendly material, which is why it has gained such popularity in Europe. Thermal treatment of wood occurs without the addition of any chemicals; only two environmentally friendly components are used: water (H2O) and high temperature(220-230 °C).
Heat treatment provides at least the same resistance class as chemically protected wood, but does not cause harm environment. You can no longer worry about the health of your loved ones, and also no longer waste time and money on regular chemical protection tree. https://

Repair

Wood aging process and methods

How to force a new one bookshelf look like he's two hundred years old? Well, okay, you can stain the wood, however, then it will only become darker, but will not “grow old.” Therefore, many woodworkers try in vain to age the wood by recreating the chips and dents that usually appear over many years of use of the product. However, the worst thing is when it is done carelessly with chisels or axes. The poor piece of wood looks worn and broken, not old at all. Some damage to the material is, of course, necessary, but this must be done carefully and not look contrived. Remember, accidental damage is never like a series of monotonous marks!
Another problem also arises here. If physical wear and tear is recreated, what about the effect of fading due to polishing or dust accumulation? What about the luxurious shine of wood that has been polished with wax for generations? Together, these two effects create the appearance of antiquity. There are many technologies to obtain each of them. Essentially, aging is a fairly simple process, albeit a long one.
A little theory
In the past, fraudulent antique dealers would first examine the parts in detail old furniture, paying attention to the smallest details of a real antique. They would then use some tricks, like adding a fine dust of polishing wax to recreate the dust build-up in the corners that usually takes many years to appear. Or they could increase wear and tear on the armrests, seats, grab handles and braces. In some cases, the wood itself was placed in animal bedding for several weeks (if not months) before use. And now we want to get the result in a day!
Quick method
Remember that each piece may require a different treatment and coloring, so it would be wise to do some research by looking closely at similar furniture before you begin. Whether you are “aging” an entire piece of furniture or just a chair leg being replaced, in any case you will need several very simple tools. Typically a ball hammer and a few sharp tools are used.
Damage
1. It is very important to strip the wood sanding paper to the extent that would be expected for a new finish. Just because a tree is old doesn't mean it wasn't carefully prepared at the time.
2. Wet the surface of the wood to lift the pile, and after drying, lightly sand again. Here it is ideal to use dark red (garnet colored) 240 grit paper.
3. Using a set of tools, carefully “damage” the wood, paying attention special attention edges. Damage usually takes the form of scratches, dents and holes. You can even recreate small area, damaged by worms, using a thin drill. In this case, try not to drill in a random order, but, on the contrary, note that in reality the worm holes are located in small clusters.
4. Fill in deep holes dark putty, simulating dust accumulation.
Staining
5. Apply a dark water-based dye/stain to highlight age. For dark oak, mix e.g. water stains"walnut" and "dark oak", adding black or other pigments to achieve the desired color.
6. Rinse off the stain using clean tap water to create a distressed effect.
7. After drying, sand the wood if the previous operation did not give the desired result.
8. Touch up imperfections or scratches that you want to either hide or highlight with a cotton swab or a sharp brush using pigments dissolved in water.
9. Apply a top coat of stain, which should have a different base to the water-based “aging” stain. For oak, this is usually a stain based on (white spirit, naphtha, gasoline solvent) “dark oak”, “dark mahogany” or “golden oak”, or a combination of two shades. Shades of “dark oak” or “golden oak” can be warmed up by adding a little “red mahogany”.

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