Soil nematodes fight. How to get rid of a nematode in a summer cottage. Methods of dealing with nematodes

Plants infect root nematodes, develop for forty days. The exact duration depends on the type of pest.

The life cycle flows in two directions:

during the laying of eggs, the female is in the ground, and not in the plant, the larvae settle in the ground. Pests begin to move until they reach the root system of the plant. This situation is observed during the primary infection of the garden plot;
in the second case, the female is in the roots of plants, where she lays her eggs. The larvae move over short distances, immediately actively feed on juices. It is more difficult to cope with such a lesion, biological methods are not suitable, the use of insecticides is necessary.

How to suspect the presence of pests in the soil

Nematodes can infect any plant, they can feed on tree sap. Currently, many breeders are breeding species that are resistant to worms. However, most plants do not have such immunity; gardeners have to deal with misfortune in various ways.

Suspecting the presence of nematodes in any part of the plant is quite simple, unpleasant signs are immediately noticeable:

the plant stops in development, its growth is noticeably inhibited;
new shoots appear later than the due time, the flowering of the plant is small;
shoots die, the rest lose their usual appearance;
fruits appear in small quantities, often there is no harvest at all.

Nematodes that infect the root system of plants impair its nutrition. Violation of the integrity of the roots leads to the attack of the plant by various microorganisms: fungi, viruses, bacteria. A weakened plant is not able to resist diseases; wounds, bulges, necrotic areas that have a yellowish color appear on its surface.

Causes

The main sources of infection are affected tubers nearby, damaged soil. Cysts are the main source of damage to other plants. They are well tolerated on garden shoes, tools. The main reason for the appearance of nematodes on the site is the incorrect alternation of crops, sometimes the complete lack of monitoring of this process. Pests are found on almost every garden plot where the same crops are constantly planted.

Note! Nematodes can infect other plants by appearing in only one bush. Regularly inspect your plantings, with special vigilance, it is not difficult to notice the affected plant.

Effective methods of struggle

When starting the destruction of nematodes on the site, follow two basic rules:

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mechanical methods. They represent digging, the complete destruction of infected plants. Bushes are removed by capturing an earthen ball (the main place of residence of nematodes). Burn the dug up plants or place in a container with bleach, then carefully pour urea;
biological methods. Alternate planting with plants that kill nematodes (beans, calendula, rye). Populate the soil with natural enemies (predatory nematodes), they not only eat pests, but also fertilize the soil, leading to increased yields;
chemical attack. Planted bushes, seed material carefully treat with special insecticides. Before planting, treat the plants with a growth stimulant, they increase immunity, help increase plant resistance to pests. extensive lesions a large number plantings, it is recommended to use nematicides that accumulate in plant cells, poisoning their juice.

See the next video for biological method the fight against a dangerous and difficult to remove pest - a nematode:

The body of the nematode is small, white, not divided into segments, and consists of a skin-muscle sac wrapped in a dense cuticle. Her oral cavity is usually equipped with a stabbing organ, similar to a spear. Nematodes pierce plant tissues with them in order to introduce herbal enzymes and draw out juices. Adult units lay up to 2500 eggs, from which larvae soon hatch, differing from their parents in a much smaller size.

Nematodes can damage both above ground and underground plant organs. Several generations can form in a year. Most nematodes are serious pests of fruits, vegetables and berry crops. In addition, they can be carriers of viral diseases.

Male nematodes are mobile, in contrast to the spindle-shaped immovable females. Their body has a worm-like configuration, 0.5-2 millimeters long, narrowed in front and rounded behind.
The larvae resemble the figure of a male, but are smaller. The back of the body is more transparent and pointed.
Eggs are microscopic, pale in color. The female lays them in the so-called egg sacs, consisting of a gelatinous film. One such bag contains a huge amount of them.

Varieties of nematodes

In this regard, herbivorous nematodes are divided into the following groups.

stem and leaf

Leaf and stem nematodes provoke fusiform thickening of the stems, underdevelopment of the leaf blade and its destruction. Leaves affected by the leaf nematode become covered with dried necrotic spots. irregular shape placed in a random order.

Strawberry, nephrolepis, chrysanthemum are especially often damaged by leaf nematodes. The stem nematode comes across on vegetable crops: garlic and onions, parsley, parsnips, tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers.

Beet nematode

The beet disease, caused by a nematode, was named beet fatigue (beet fatigue) of the soil, since its appearance was attributed to the depletion of the soil and its depletion of potassium salts; but then true reason disease was elucidated thanks to the research of Kuhn and others.

The harm caused by the nematode consists in browning the leaves and in reducing the size and weight (by 2–3 times) of the plant root, moreover, the latter often completely rot. The amount of sugar in a diseased beetroot decreases by more than 6%. With the grandiose fecundity of the nematode, it can quite harm sugar beet plantations.

potato nematode

Development from caterpillar to adult potato nematode passes through the tissues of the root (tuber) of the plant. Worm-like colorless males crawl out of the root into the ground. Females remain attached to the root (tuber) with their head end; swollen body, covered with a thick cuticle, protrudes outward.

After insemination, the male dies, and the female forms over 1000 eggs, which remain in the mother's body, which becomes a cyst after her death. In spring, the larvae emerge from the cyst and penetrate into the roots of plants.

Potato nematode suppresses the development of potatoes, significantly reducing the level of yield; with severe infection, tubers are not formed or only 1-3 small tubers grow.

Root nematodes

Formation takes 19−45 days. The female inside the gall lays up to 2 thousand eggs in her life. The nematode larva formed in the egg bypasses the first molt in the egg, hatches, is introduced into the root and intensively feeds on the juices of the host plant, transforming into a motionless female or a mobile male leaving the gall in search of a female.

The growth and formation of the nematode is facilitated by moderate soil moisture and temperatures in the range of 20–30°C. In some breeding areas, soil pH levels of 5.5-5.8 favor the emergence of the nematode. Other factors such as soil type and organic fertilizers, similarly affect life cycle nematodes.

Symptoms of a nematode infection

Stem nematodes colonize stems, flowers, and leaves, initiating thickening of affected tissues and organs. These representatives of roundworms do not exceed 1.7 millimeters in length. Stem nematodes cause swelling on the stem and tarnishing of the affected parts of the plant. Damaged organs turn brown and die over time.

The above-ground parts of plants affected by root-knot nematodes have external signs that can be attributed to signs of a deficiency of certain mineral elements. From time to time, plants do not show such signs at all. AT closed ground with a powerful infection, wilting of the leaves is observed. But it is quite easy to diagnose infection with nematodes by the root system of a plant: on the roots, most often in the places of branching, one can notice galls - thickenings, which in some susceptible species can reach several centimeters in diameter.

Galls on the roots can be formed not only under the influence of gall nematodes, but also as a result of the formation of bacterial infections, therefore, for correct installation diagnosis, it is necessary to confirm the presence of nematodes in the roots of females. With meloidoginosis, females and egg sacs on affected roots can be easily seen with a binocular loupe.

The principal element of diagnosis is the presence of egg sacs with eggs on the outside of the galls. Moreover, the largest egg sacs develop on small galls and are almost never found on the surface of singalls, in which the entire cycle takes place inside the root. Young egg sacs are 0.5-1.5 mm in size, yellowish in color, becoming brown over time.

Nematode control methods

In general, describe a different kind of nematode on various plants you can endlessly, let's better move on to a story about methods of dealing with this infection.

Folk remedies

The main and, perhaps, the only effective folk remedy fighting the nematode "angrily and cheaply" - spilling the soil on the eve of landing with boiling water.

High temperatures are disastrous for tiny nematodes, and at the end of such a procedure, their number on the site really drops noticeably. You just need to remember that for a real effect, the earth must be watered. hot water with a temperature of at least 50-55 ° C to a depth of at least 15-20 centimeters. After that, it can also be covered with polyethylene to cool more slowly.

In addition to the soil, the affected plants themselves should also be treated with hot water - as a rule, this applies to the roots and bulbs affected by the gall nematode. They are washed off the ground and then soaked in warm (45-50°C) water for 10-30 minutes. Formalin at a concentration of 0.06% can be added to this water as a useful additive.

Chemicals

Some chemicals have complex action in particular chloropicrin. They lead to complete sterilization of the soil. Planting after processing can be done only after a few weeks, and after using some, in general, only for the next season.

The chemical method of control consists in spraying horticultural crops with chemicals to exterminate leaf and stem nematodes. To exterminate the root, you need to shed the soil with a solution of the drug. It is necessary to spray and spill in dry, sunny, calm weather, preferably before noon or after 17:00 in the evening. The procedure must be performed several times, since poisons act only on mature worms.

The most effective chemicals are "Dimethoat", "Bi-58", "Rogor", "Vidat", "Nemaphos".

Chemicals must be used in strict accordance with practical guide with the use of protective equipment.

Preventive methods

Both preventive measures and means of combating the nematode without the use of chemicals are conditionally effective. It:

Compliance with crop rotation.
The choice of hybrids and varieties that are relatively stable to nematode damage (in particular, for tomatoes - Nagano F1, Evpator F1, Malika F1; for garden strawberries- Festival, Pearl, Dessert, Saxon, Rocket; for potatoes - Scarlet, Fresco, Picasso, Diamond).
Rigorous selection of healthy seeds.

Heating bulbs and corms before planting for 15 minutes at approximately 45-50°C, or 3-5 minutes at 55-60°C.
Before planting soil disinfection with hot water, removal of the top layer, digging and indispensable mulching.
Systematic planting care - thinning and weeding.
Accurate watering - drops of water should not remain on the leaves and stems for a long time, because. this favors the development of nematodes.
Planting phytoncidal plants between rows that help repel pests, for example, marigolds or calendula.
If infection is detected during the growing season, the affected and oppressed plants are cleaned in time.
At the end of the harvest, remove all grass residues from the site, remove (burn) all other infested plant material along with the surrounding soil.

To increase fertility and partially exterminate the nematode, the area vacated at the end of harvesting in August - early September should be sown with grain (preferably winter) crops. First, the site is cleaned of weeds and plant fragments, the soil is loosened and only then it is sown with grain "scattered", to a depth of 2-3 centimeters.
With the arrival of stable frosts, the earth, together with winter crops, is dug up, making a complete revolution of the reservoir. So she gets rich organic matter and gets rid of the most dangerous pest - the nematode, which in such unfavorable circumstances simply freezes.

There is no easy solution

Discussing the issue effective protection from the spread of nematodes, experts from the three companies noted that there is no easy solution to this problem. Comprehensive programs that combine the use of biological and chemical nematicides, optimization of crop rotations and the creation of modern, more resistant hybrids and varieties that are not infected by the nematode will be more effective.

Hello dear readers!

This short article is about root nematodes and how how to deal with nematodes Location on. Before we talk about methods of dealing with the nematode, let's get acquainted with this merciless pest of our green pets.

Root nematodes - small, quite dangerous pest, it can hardly be distinguished with the naked eye, since the length of this transparent roundworm migrating in the soil is no more than 1.3 mm.

Root nematodes are one of the varieties of nematodes; in nature, in addition to pests, there are also beneficial species. The classification of nematodes that cause harm depends on their habitat. There are root, leaf, stem nematodes.

Root nematodes live in the soil, most often near the roots of plants. First of all, they suffer vegetable crops. This type of nematode can be divided into the following three groups - free-living root-knot nematodes and free-cystic nematodes.

The first species of this subgroup exists by sucking the juices of plants. By secreting saliva, they cause the formation of peculiar thickenings - galls on the roots of plants, thereby slowing down the growth and development of plants.

The second species is free-living nematodes, they live in sandy soils. After being hit by them, the roots of plants change color - they become brown, all root system gradually dies off, the plant withers and dies as a result.

Free cyst nematodes lay their eggs in a cyst on plant roots. Laid eggs can remain viable in this form for several years. The larvae emerging from the eggs again infect the plants.

Eggs and larvae of root nematodes, despite their adaptability, require the presence of certain conditions, they should be: wet, warm earth(lower temperatures prevent reproduction), slightly acidic soil (regular liming inhibits the spread of nematodes), sandy soil(the sandy structure facilitates the movement of nematodes, provides them with oxygen).

How to deal with the nematode

You won't find it in stores chemicals control of nematodes, but there are means of influencing this pest, they are available to any gardener. Crop rotation, mixed landings, use, selection of varieties of vegetables resistant to this pest, these are simple and effective measures to prevent the spread of nematodes.

But, if a lesion has nevertheless arisen, do not plant crops or plant varieties susceptible to this pest on such a site for 6 years.

During the cultivation of ornamental and fruit plants summer residents often face different problems. After all different cultures Gardens and orchards may require some special soil and care, and besides, they may be affected by pests and diseases. Having identified any disturbances in the growth of plants, it is necessary to determine in time what happened to them and take action. effective methods to correct problems that have arisen. So, nematodes are becoming a fairly common problem among gardeners. Let's talk about how the fight against nematodes in the soil can be carried out.

Fighting nematodes in the ground

However, sitting back and waiting for the pest to transfer itself is also wrong. On the market, you can find Fitoverm (in the form of 0.2% powder), which effectively copes with many varieties of nematodes and is practically safe for humans. It must be used in accordance with the instructions.

Fight against strawberry nematode

Toward the end of spring, and also in the fall, remove the entire area from the affected leaves and weeds. Remove the collected material and burn it. Choose for planting those varieties of strawberries that are resistant to nematodes. And before planting seedlings in without fail spill the soil with sufficiently hot water (more than 50C). Also provide landings proper care, avoid thickening, spend time weeding and thinning. In addition, it will not be superfluous to plant calendula with marigolds in the aisles.

As chemical methods to combat the strawberry nematode, you can use products that contain mercaptophos or phosphamide. Such compositions are represented by BI-58, Dimetoatom, ROGOR, etc. Readers of "Popular about Health" should use them only in accordance with the instructions.

potato nematode

As an effective measure to combat the potato nematode, it is recommended to prophylactically apply a kilogram of urea per hundred square meters even before planting potatoes. After that, it is worth shedding the soil using an infusion of potato sprouts. To prepare it, it is necessary to turn a kilogram of prepared sprouts through a meat grinder and pour a bucket of water (the resulting amount of infusion is enough for one hundred square meters).

The use of such a solution early exit larvae from cysts, after which they die due to insufficiently high temperature environment.

When planting, it is advisable to add a couple of handfuls of rotted manure or compost into each hole, as well as one handful wood ash and a tablespoon of dried bird droppings. All these components should be sprinkled with soil and the tuber should be planted so that it is directed upward by the sprout.

After planting, water the soil with a solution of chicken manure (use one part of the manure per bucket of water), while for each square meter soil pour a bucket of this mixture.

You need to feed potatoes with fresh and dried chicken manure, you can also use liquid manure or mullein infusion for this purpose.
After harvesting, spread lime in empty holes or bring it into the ground during digging. So you can reduce the number of pests in the ground.

onion nematode

There is also an onion nematode to combat which you need to follow the rules of crop rotation. So, onion planting can be carried out in the same place only after five years, no less. It is extremely important to use only high-quality planting material.

When planting onion sets, disinfect in hot water- for a quarter of an hour at a temperature of about forty-five degrees or for five to ten minutes at a temperature of about fifty to fifty-two degrees.

After harvesting, be sure to burn plant debris, as well as weeds. If the bulbs have been infected, spill the soil using a solution of Carbation (two hundred milliliters per square meter).

Nematodes are very voracious pests that multiply actively and are difficult to eliminate. Therefore, it is better to adhere to the rules of crop rotation so that you never encounter them. If you find a pest in the soil, then do not dismiss the fight. At least somehow you can minimize the possible damage.

External signs of damage

Nematode larvae enter the stem of the plant through the root, in addition to the stem, they infect foliage and buds. Of the external manifestations of nematode damage, the following can be noted: plants take on an unsightly appearance, thickenings form at the sites of the worm settlement due to the release of enzymes and poisons. New shoots develop poorly or stop developing altogether. At first, the infected parts of the plant become pale, then turn brown and completely wither.

leaf nematodes

Root nematodes

Attention! There are plants (for example, indoor plants - chlorophytum or arrowroot) that have thickenings on the roots with a supply of moisture and nutrients. The difference between such thickenings and galls is the color and shape. Useful thickenings are oblong, white.

Folk ways to treat the earth from a nematode

Stem and leaf nematodes

Dealing with a pest is not an easy task, especially during the period when nematodes are in the ground. Yes, and there are no ways to guarantee the complete destruction of the pest, preventive measures will rather help here.

First of all, when an infected plant is found, it must be dug up and burned; in no case should such a plant be placed in compost.
You always need to monitor the condition of the soil, nematodes often settle in acidic soil.
If after long waits legumes never came up, you need to dig up the seeds, they may already be chosen by the nematode, the worms completely wrap around the seed. Film mulching can be used, the soil under the film will warm up from sun exposure, and nematodes under the action of high temperatures are dying.
Plants that can destroy the pest are ammobium, cumin, helichrysum and acroclinum.

Root nematodes

And for those who have the Albin Compound primers available for sale, they generally benefit - feel free to use the Protect primer. It contains predatory nematodes that displace even a potato, even a strawberry nematode. When planting under each tuber / bush, just add a tablespoon of this mixture, and this will be the best biosecurity against herbivorous nematodes for many years - cute predators will perfectly take root in the garden and calmly overwinter. The only condition is not to overdry the open mixture, otherwise you will ruin the biological product.