Diseases of home roses description with photos. Diseases of roses and methods of treatment. Known diseases of roses

Any plants, and especially those with such beauty as roses, are prone to fungal diseases. In this article you will find all the detailed information about such diseases and their treatment. An indispensable source of information for the prevention and proper care of diseased flowers.

Types of diseases

There are many reasons why roses can get sick, at least it is the wrong place or the wrong time to plant these flowers. Also, their health is affected by the conditions of their cultivation: lighting, indoor air circulation and weather conditions. When buying seedlings, you should pay attention to their physical damage.

So, diseases of roses are divided into:

Bacterial diseases:
- root cancer;
- stem cancer;
Various spotting:
Ceproscorosis (rusty-brown);
Septoria (whitish);
Sphaceloma (crimson);

fungal diseases:

The reasons. The main factors in the occurrence of black spots on the leaves of roses are the wrong place for planting and too wet weather.

You should also pay attention to the variety of roses. There are varieties (tea, polyanthus, climbing) that are most prone to diseases of this nature. They need more careful care.

The infection begins to show its activity in early July, when the air temperature reaches 20-25 degrees. Then small black spots begin to appear on the leaves, which continue to grow in the future, until the leaves fall off.

Treatment. To treat roses from black spots, it is necessary to treat the plant with preparations that contain zinc and manococeb with a regularity of 2 weeks. For example, Topaz and Profit are in demand. At the beginning of the spring season, spraying helps the plant become stronger and more disease-resistant, and if treated at planting, then disease can also be prevented.

Cercosporosis, septoria, sphaceloma

As already mentioned, they belong to the same group of diseases along with black spots. The difference between them is only in their manifestation:

In the prevention of treatment, treatment and careful care are also necessary.

stem cancer

The reasons. Infections of the flower with cancer can occur as a result of rain, a contagious insect, poor soil and often this is due to external damage from garden tools. As a result, the bark begins to die, and on the shoot, the lesions become brown or yellow. The leaves dry up and curl, but stay on the stem.

Treatment. Infected shoots and stems must be cut immediately disinfected garden shears. A solution of 3% zinc sulfate is commonly used for processing. For the complete destruction of the disease, regular frequent treatment (2-4 years) is necessary.

root cancer

Cause. A hard growth at the point of contact of the earth and the stem of a rose - this is how root cancer manifests itself. The main factors in the occurrence of a bacterial disease are external damage to the flower or overdoing it when fertilizing it. Such hard compactions in most cases lead to the death of the plant. It is also possible the manifestation of the virus at the grafting site of the occluded rose.

The infection can affect any variety of roses, but flowers that are grown on clay surfaces are most subject to it.

Treatment. The first step is to remove the growth from the site of the lesion of the flower. You need to cut carefully, using a processed sharp knife. Everything cut from the plant must be removed from the garden and burned.

After that, the affected areas on the roses need to be treated with special preparations. There are many specialized disinfectants available to fight bacteria. But summer residents usually use a one percent solution.

After processing, you need to wait 5-7 minutes and rinse the flower with water. In most cases, after providing such first aid, the flower survives.

The reasons. The development of such an infection is affected by the discrepancy between the weather and the seasons. Warm winter or cold, rainy summers favor rust on roses.

The disease manifests itself as an orange-brown rash on the stems and leaves of flowers, usually appears in late spring, during high humidity. With the evolution of the disease, over time, the rust completely covers the leaves, they darken and this leads to their fall.

The main victims of rust are moss and centifolia roses.

The sore is easily transmitted from the patient to a healthy bush.

Treatment

To get rid of rust you need:

Cut off diseased branches, leaves, shoots from the bush and destroy;
Carefully inspect the plants for the content of diseased spores, otherwise the disease will return by the beginning of the next flowering season;
Before flowering, it is necessary to carry out foliar top dressing using a superphosphate solution of 0.3%;
Wipe the leaves with potassium nitrate;
If the disease did not have time to spread greatly, then it is enough to treat the bush with one percent.

To prevent the invasion of infection in the garden, regular cleaning of the garden is necessary, with the elimination of fallen or withered parts of the plant.

The most common disease among roses. It got its name because of the white powdery coating on the flower, which soon releases a dew-like liquid.

The reasons. Like other ailments, it appears during high humidity, too much fertilizer or a lack of oxygen. The infection first attacks young shoots, and then spreads through the air. Also lends itself well to endemic Chinese rose. The disease can appear at any time when the summer coolness appears.

It is a white coating, which after a few weeks can plant the entire flower. Also, at the same time, the bud is bent, and the flower loses its color.

Treatment. To prevent such ailments or to prevent treatment, use. An excellent assistant here is the drug GreenCure.

The soap and soda solution that needs to be treated with all the roses in the garden copes well with the already present disease. Such prophylaxis should be carried out once a week. Using a solution of colloidal sulfur, you need to wash the flower every ten days.

The reasons. It differs from ordinary powdery mildew only in that ordinary powdery mildew spreads along the upper part of the leaves and flower, while downy mildew spreads along the lower part and tends to grow inside. On leaves it appears as dark spots with a purple tint.

Hybrid tea and English varieties are most prone to the disease.

The infection is activated with the advent of cool and humid weather.

Treatment. When the air temperature reaches more than +30 degrees, the disease begins to recede. Therefore, in the very heat, the progress of the disease is unlikely.

Experienced rose growers fight the infection using preparations based on zinc fungicides.

This is a rather old method, but very effective. A solution of Topsin-M with water (20 g of solution per 10 liters of water) helps well in the fight.

The reasons. A virus that appears in the process of breeding roses. The disease begins to be pronounced only in hot and dry weather. Represents yellow patterns on the leaves of the plant. The carrier of infection is aphids or infected garden tools. The disease is so strong that it can be easily transmitted by contact of the roots.

Treatment. Rarely leads to the death of the plant. To avoid disease, it is necessary to carefully examine the seedlings. You can get rid of the infection only with the help of heat treatment in a specialized laboratory.

Foreword

The delightful aroma of a room rose will not leave anyone indifferent, however, in order for the resident of the pot to please the eye for a long time, one should Special attention measures to combat various pests and diseases.

This one for real royal flower easily wins hearts, and what a shame when he dies as a result improper care. In our article, we will consider not only the means of dealing with problems that have already arisen, such as pests, fungi and viruses, but also how to prevent them. To do this, you should learn a little more about the characteristics of the plant.

indoor rose

Rose is the collective name of various representatives of the genus Rosehip. At the same time, the main part of the varieties was obtained by selection. Most species are thermophilic, but there are also individual representatives that survive even in a rather harsh climate. indoor plant preferably placed on windows with south side because they love the sun. If you place this representative of the flora in the shade, then it may not bloom at all.

Preference should be given to neutral soils. But if you want the flower to have a more pronounced color, then you need to plant it in soil with an alkaline reaction. It is very important that the soil is well drained. At the same time, you should not relocate a newly acquired inhabitant to another pot. It is necessary to allow the plant to adapt to new conditions, and only after that it is possible to start a transplant.

Briefly about the variety of these beauties

Now for the most common types. indoor roses. The most popular species can rightly be called polyanthus and miniature plants. The first were bred by crossing climbing and tea varieties. Such representatives of the flora bloom all year round, while their small double flowers are odorless. But some miniature specimens can fill the room with an amazing aroma. They got their name from small sizes. But despite such compactness, the bushes are covered with dense foliage, and terry inflorescences are distinguished by an elegant shape. The birthplace of such roses is China.

More rare representatives can be called hybrid tea varieties, which were bred by crossing remontant and tea roses. The main difference of this type is a delicate exquisite aroma and rather large flowers.

Most varieties of indoor roses are susceptible to various diseases, and only when proper care for the inhabitants of the pot, you can grow a strong plant with good immunity. Be sure to maintain the desired temperature. Despite the fact that the flower is thermophilic, during the dormant period from October to February it is better to keep it in a cool room. Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, even if it is frosty outside, and in the summer, move the resident of the pot to a balcony or garden.

The soil should not be allowed to dry out, because after that the plant does not recover well. Water the soil regularly warm water and apply fertilizer. Top dressing is best done once every two weeks. To maintain the desired level of humidity, it is necessary not only to water the ground, but also to spray the leaves.

rose pruning

It is best to transplant in the spring and very carefully so as not to disturb root system. Carefully take out an earthen ball with roots and place it in new pot slightly larger volume. In this case, the top layer of the earth should be removed, it has a characteristic white coating - the protruding salt.

It is also important to carry out timely pruning. In the spring, all weak and small branches are removed. It is enough to leave only 5 well-developed shoots. If their wood is mature enough, then these shoots are cut into 3-6 eyes, 4-5 can be left on shoots of moderate growth. But weak branches are shortened by only 3 eyes. Then the representative of the flora should immediately be taken out to a cool place, and as soon as the first green leaves appear, we place the flower on a well-lit window. It is worth noting that the cooler it is in the room, the longer the rest period will last.

Now we will talk about fungal diseases that are most often affected indoor varieties roses. They are quite difficult to diagnose, contagious and treated only with certain drugs. Most often, the fungus affects the weakest representatives of the flora. High humidity combined with high temperature – optimal conditions for its development. Quite often, such diseases are introduced with earth, dust, or newly acquired green inhabitants.

If spots are found on the surface of the leaves, then most likely we are talking about a disease such as spotting. Ignoring the danger, you run the risk of saying goodbye to the flower, as the spots will increase in size over time, and as a result, the green foliage will simply dry out and fall off. Most often this disease is yellow roses. Mostly the symptoms appear in the second half of the growing season.

rose spotting

Contributes to the spread of the fungus: thickening of the crown, excessive moisture and poor ventilation, too dense soil in the pot. Noticing the affected areas, immediately remove them and treat the plant with copper-containing or sulfurous preparations. In addition, until complete recovery, avoid spraying with plain water and pay special attention to watering. The treatment of roses with a special antifungal soap has also proven itself well.

This most common fungal disease most negatively affects the general condition of the plant and leads to its complete death. It can be determined by white bloom on leaves, which gradually spreads to stems and even buds. Affected parts should be removed immediately before the fungus has moved to healthy branches. But at the advanced stage, the flower should be cut off at the root. It is enough to leave small shoots about 5 cm high. Next, you need to process the rose, the soil, and even flower pot foundationol or other special means. Spraying is repeated several times.

Powdery mildew on leaves

Contributes to this fungal disease excessive fertilizer and deficiency fresh air. The peak of its activity is the period when a significant temperature difference begins between day and night.

There is another disease with similar symptoms - downy mildew. But only in this case, the raid mainly spreads along inside leaf and primarily affects wet areas. From above, the leaves are covered with purple or light spots. On the Internet you can find photos with symptoms. Control measures also have similarities with the previous disease. All affected parts are removed, and the plant is treated several times with fungicides. At the same time, to enhance the effect, it is recommended to change the drug each time.

In addition to fungal, there are also. One of the most terrible diseases of the rose can rightfully be called bacterial cancer. In this case, the stems and even the roots of the plant, depending on the type of disease, are covered with tuberculate growths or rounded depressed spots. The affected areas gradually die off, but the bacteria continue to live in the soil for several more years.

To avoid mass infection, it is not enough just to remove the affected areas, they should be disinfected in a solution blue vitriol within minutes. In no case should you throw away the soil in which an infected plant grew in a garden or vegetable garden, as you risk being left without a crop for several years.

Infectious burn on a rose

Rose jaundice is also dangerous. The causative agent of this infection is carried by pests such as psyllids and leafhoppers. You can determine the disease by yellowing veins of young leaves. In addition, over time, the leaves themselves begin to brighten and deform, if no action is taken, then larger areas appear. yellow color and the plant is weakening. The affected areas are cut off and burned. And if the flower cannot be saved, then it should also be burned.

But this is not all diseases, it is worth paying attention to the rose wilt virus. In this case, the buds do not tie, the leaves become narrower and gradually dry out, and the young shoots do not grow. As a result, the bushes completely dry out. The same measures to combat the disease are applied as in the previous case.

There is also an infectious burn. Spots appear on the leaves with dry patches in the center. Their color can be either light brown or darker. Characteristic crimson edging. The affected areas rapidly increase in size with poor ventilation of the premises. After the spots ring the shoot, it dies off completely. It is best to cut off the infected shoots, but if the disease has not had time to develop, you can save the plant without such drastic actions. It is necessary to completely clean off the stain with a knife and cover the already healthy tissue with Runnet.

Regardless of the disease, the tools used for pruning must be disinfected. They are treated with either a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol, otherwise there is a risk of transferring the infection to other plants and losing them. In addition, do not underestimate the danger that they can pose, because they not only spoil the representative of the flora themselves, but also carry various viruses.

Let's start about dangerous pest which is almost impossible to avoid. main reason its appearance can be called insufficient humidity in the room. Therefore, for prevention, the plant should be regularly sprayed and even bathed in the shower. Basically, a tick appears in late autumn and winter, because during this period, many owners of indoor roses do not pay enough attention to the prevailing microclimate and allow the soil to dry out.

Signs of a spider mite

To minimize the likelihood of damage, even only acquired plants should be treated with special non-toxic preparations. Garlic infusion will perfectly cope with the task. To prepare it, you need a liter of water and 170 g vegetable crop. The remedy is infused for 5 days. You can also use tobacco infusion, while a small layer is poured onto the ground mustard powder or wood ash. Prevention is repeated several times a year. One of the most effective yet non-toxic chemicals- "Arrow", "Aktellik", "Neoron". Also, Akarin and Vertimek have proven themselves well. The flower is completely sprayed with a solution, and for a better effect it is recommended to process an earthen lump. The procedure is repeated 3 times with an interval of 7 days.

Small pests are usually located on the underside of the leaves and look like small red, red or dark brown dots. Having slightly wetted the flower, you can see how the tick begins to move. The larvae of this insect are light and are also found on the green part of the plant. Over time, the foliage turns brown and falls off.

Of course, huge damage. indoor flowers cause diseases of roses, but insects should not be underestimated. For example, small beetles settle inside a flower and gnaw through its leaves. But the caterpillars can not only make small holes in the green parts of the plant, but also gnaw them completely. You can get rid of such unwanted guests with the help of preparations containing karbofos.

If the leaves of the flower are deformed, and the plant itself lags behind in development, then most likely it was struck by the rose sawfly. The females of this insect lay their eggs under the bark of a representative of the world of flora. But this is not the worst thing, such a pest feeds on young buds and shoots of roses, which causes incredible damage. To destroy the sawfly, the plant should be treated with special karbofos-containing preparations or fufanon. But insecticides irreplaceable if the rose was struck by a scale insect. You can recognize it by the brown plaques that will cover the foliage and stem. In addition, the plant lags behind in development, sheds leaves, and if you ignore the symptoms and do not provide timely assistance, it will die altogether.

rose sawfly

You can find out that the plant was struck by cut aphids by the following symptoms. Firstly, young shoots and buds will teem with colonies of small pests. Secondly, the foliage of the flower will take on an unnatural look, begin to curl, deform, and eventually dry out altogether. Timely treatment with tobacco infusion or soapy water will help to overcome the problem that has arisen. Moreover, if you decide to give preference to the second remedy, you should use insecticidal soap.

Yarrow infusion has also proven itself well. To prepare it, fill half a liter jar with dried herbs and fill it with water. The remedy is infused for 3-4 days. To enhance the effect, you can add a small bar of soap. There are also chemicals that will help in the fight against this insect. These include pyrethrum, actellik and other agents based on karbofos. If the colonies are insignificant, then you can cope with them with the help of biological method by placing several ladybugs on the plant.

Consequences of improper care

Pests and diseases can deprive you of a pet, but sometimes we ourselves can cause such a loss by making mistakes during care. For example, a change in living conditions can lead to the drying of a flower. In this case, the previous microclimate should be resumed and pruned. And excessive moisture and excessive irrigation will lead to decay. To reanimate such a plant is quite difficult task. To do this, remove the rose from the pot and cut off the rotten roots. Next, transplant the plant into new land and do not allow overflow. At the same time, complete drying of the soil should be avoided.

But insufficient watering leads to the drying of the plant and without proper care the problem cannot be solved. All dead shoots should be removed, but only so that a few centimeters remain to the trunk. Then we water the inhabitant of the pot and place it under a plastic bag. Thus, the desired humidity can be ensured. As soon as young shoots appear, you need to start airing the "greenhouse" so that the plant gets used to dry air.

Rose, as a true queen of the garden, requires special attention. If the rules of cultivation are not followed, adverse weather conditions develop on roses, various diseases that cause fungi, bacteria, viruses. Treating rose diseases is always more difficult than preventing their development. Therefore, always try to take preventive measures to prevent diseases.

Disease prevention

To protect these beautiful flowers from diseases, it is important to take a number of preventive measures:

Pruning and destruction of weak and diseased shoots, dried leaves and other plant residues on which pathogenic fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
To prevent diseases, rose bushes are sprayed with chemical and biological preparations. a wide range actions: Alirin-B, Skor, Topaz, etc.
Periodic checkups required rose bushes so as not to miss the onset of the disease and its spread to neighboring plants. A neglected disease is difficult to treat and can lead to the death of the rose.
Do not overfeed plants with nitrogen fertilizers, and in the second half of summer, completely exclude nitrogen from top dressing.
Periodic top dressing with potassium and phosphate fertilizers increase plant resistance to disease.

Rose diseases are divided into fungal, bacterial and viral. This article provides descriptions, photos and methods of treating the following diseases:

powdery mildew

The spread of this disease is facilitated by dense plantings, prolonged summer rains, big difference day and night temperatures, excessive nitrogen application with top dressing. First of all, powdery mildew affects young green shoots and leaves.

Powdery mildew on roses

Description of the disease

The spores of the fungus that have fallen on the plant germinate and form whitish mealy spots on the leaves and shoots, which gradually grow. The rose bush is covered with an ash-gray powder coating. The leaves dry up, the shoots are deformed and stop developing.

Methods of treatment

If signs of the disease are found, the leaves and shoots with a coating are urgently cut off and destroyed.
Spray the bushes with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. The working solution is prepared immediately before use. 100 g of sulfur is taken per bucket of water. The foliage is sprayed from the upper and lower sides in dry, calm weather.
With a strong lesion, drugs are effective: Skor, Topaz, Fundazol, Vitaros. Fungicides need to be alternated, because. the fungus develops drug resistance.

Folk remedies

Alternative methods of treatment work at the initial stage of the disease of rose bushes and as a prevention.

4 g of soda ash is stirred into 1 liter hot water, add 4 g of soap chips. The resulting solution is sprayed on the diseased plant twice with a weekly interval.
A third of a bucket of fresh mullein is poured with water and left for three days. The mixture is periodically stirred. The resulting infusion is diluted with water 1:10 and sprayed with rose bushes in the evening.
Mix 1 kg of ash with 10 liters of water, leave for two days. Add 40 g of soap chips and spray the affected bushes twice with a week break.

Prevention measures

Timely removal and destruction of fallen leaves, weeds, on which fungus spores can persist.
From mid-summer, feed only with potash and phosphorus fertilizers. surplus nitrogen fertilizers reduces the resistance of roses to powdery mildew.
In the spring, after removing the shelter and in late autumn, spray rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, 0.4% copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties of roses.
Avoid crowded bush planting.

rose rust

The disease is caused by a rust fungus, the spores of which are carried by wind or insects. Rust development is favored by wet and warm weather. The disease spreads easily and is difficult to treat.

It looks like a plant affected by rust.

Description of the disease

In the initial stage of the disease, bright red spots appear on the leaves of the rose. If you look at the underside of the leaf, then in these places you can see such orange tubercles of sporulation. This is the spring stage of rust fungus development.

With further development of the disease, the pustules acquire a brown-rusty color. Yellow-red spots spread throughout the leaf blade, the leaves dry up and fall off. Shoots crack, bend and dry out. In the autumn stage of development, the pustules become dark. In this form, the fungus overwinters on the infected parts of the plant.

Treatment Methods

Cut off and burn all leaves and shoots with orange spots.
Spraying the rose and the soil around the bush with a solution of fungicides: Titan, Strobi, Falcon, Bayleton. Processing is carried out repeatedly with a two-week break, changing preparations.
Spraying roses copper-containing preparations: hom, Bordeaux mixture, blue vitriol.

Folk remedies for rust treatment

For 10 liters of warm water, 1.5 kg of crushed milkweed stalks are taken. The mixture is infused for a day in a warm place. The resulting infusion is filtered and used to spray the leaves.

Disease prevention

Pruning and destruction of diseased plant parts and weeds.
Spraying in late autumn and early spring of bushes and soil around 3% solution of copper sulfate, 3% solution iron sulphate.
Autumn digging of the earth near the bushes.

Downy mildew or rose downy mildew

Peronosporosis is a fungal disease of roses that spreads in conditions of high humidity. Cool rainy weather, sudden temperature changes at night and during the day with heavy dew contribute to the development of the disease. The fungus reproduces by zoospores, which move quickly in the water. For infection, a wet film on the leaves is enough for the zoospores to infiltrate the stomata of the leaf and begin their destructive work.

Rainy weather favors the development of the disease.

Description of the disease

Downy mildew on roses appears as a light grayish or purple bloom on the underside of the leaves. The spores of the fungus germinate through the tissue of the leaf, and red and purple-brown spots appear on the surface of the leaf plate. The leaves turn yellow and fall off literally within two to three days. First of all, the disease affects the upper young leaves.

With further spread, spots may appear on the shoots, the buds are deformed, the outer petals darken and fall off. In a hot dry summer, the disease stops, but closer to autumn it begins with renewed vigor.

Treatment Methods

Destruction of infected leaves and shoots.
Solutions of drugs are used for treatment: Ridomil Gold, Thanos, Alirin-B, Gamair, Profit. Spraying roses and the soil around the bush should be done every 10-14 days.

Folk ways to treat the disease

1 liter of skimmed milk is mixed with 9 liters of water and 10 drops of 5% alcohol solution of iodine are added. The resulting mixture is sprayed with bushes.
Pour 1 cup of ash into 2 liters of boiled water, add water to 10 liters. Filter the solution and spray the roses.

Preventive measures

Pruning and destruction of affected leaves, shoots and plant debris.
In late autumn and early spring, spraying with solutions of preparations containing copper.
Top dressing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers improves plant resistance to disease.

Black Spot or Marsonina Rose

Black spot is a common fungal disease of roses that develops in damp, warm weather, in thickened plantings, with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

This disease begins to spread from the bottom up.

Description of the disease

Black spot begins to spread from the lower leaves to the top of the bush. Green shoots may also be affected. Dark brown and black spots with uneven blurred edges appear on the foliage. Leaves turn yellow and fall off. Without treatment, the rose bush may lose all foliage and remain bare. Shoots will not have time to mature and prepare for winter. With a high probability, such a bush will die in winter.

How to treat the disease

It is necessary to remove and destroy all damaged leaves and weak thin shoots.
Spray with fungicides three to six times with a week break, alternating preparations. Nice results give Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Fundazol.

Folk methods of treatment

Folk methods are best used for the prevention of black spot.

Spraying with infusion of mullein. 1 part of mullein is mixed with 10 parts of water and infused for several days.
200 g of onion peel pour 10 liters of water and heat to a boil. Insist 8 hours. Strain the infusion and spray the rose bushes and the ground around.

Prevention

Before sheltering roses for the winter, remove all foliage and weak shoots, clear the ground around from plant sediments.
In early spring and late autumn, spray roses and the surrounding soil with 3% iron or copper sulphate.
Do not overfeed with nitrogen, and exclude nitrogen from top dressing from mid-summer.
Top dressing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers increases the resistance of plants to fungal diseases, incl. to black spot.
Spraying with Fitosporin serves as a good protection against many fungal diseases.

Among the fungal diseases of roses there are leaf spots, which appear in much the same way as black spot: Leaf septoria, leaf phyllostictosis, purple rose spot, grayish spot (cercospora). Determining which type of spotting struck a rose can be difficult. But all these diseases of roses are treated in the same way as black spot.

Infectious burn of roses

Infectious burn develops in conditions of poor ventilation and high humidity. Such conditions are created under shelter during thaws in winter.

In the photo, an infectious burn of roses

Description of the disease

In early spring, black spots appear on the shoots with a characteristic red-burgundy border. With the further development of the disease, the spots increase and ring the stem, the bark cracks and flakes off. Sick shoots inevitably die.

How is an infectious burn on roses treated?

If signs of the disease are found, all damaged parts should be cut out to healthy tissue. Cover the cut points with garden pitch. Severely affected shoots must be cut out completely. Spray the bush with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Preventive measures to prevent the disease

Before shelter, all leaves and weak shoots, plant debris from the ground near the bush must be removed from the bush.
You need to cover roses for the winter in dry, cold weather.
Before shelter, treat the bush and soil around with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
In the spring, open the roses as soon as weather conditions allow and spray with a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride (HOM) or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Bacterial diseases of roses

Bacterial root canker is caused by bacteria that live in the soil. Bacteria enter the roots and shoots through cracks and wounds caused by planting or pruning with tools or obtained from pests.

In the photo, bacterial root cancer

Description of the disease

The bacteria attack the root tissue cells, which begin to divide uncontrollably. Light soft growths and sagging appear on the roots and root neck. They grow, become dark and hard. In the future, the growths rot. Plants affected by cancer develop poorly, wither and subsequently die.

Treatment of the disease

With early detection of cancer, you can try to cure the plant. The bush needs to be dug up and cut off the roots and shoots with growths. Immerse the root in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 5 minutes, then rinse with water and dip in a clay mash. Severely affected bushes are best burned.

Preventive measures

Before planting roses, disinfect the roots in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, rinse in water, and dip in a clay mash.

Pour the planted bushes under the root with a solution of Fitolavin or Fitoplasmin. Preventive watering can be done several times.
Organic fertilizers enrich the soil with antagonistic bacteria that inhibit the development of bacterial cancer.

Bacterial stem cancer

The bacteria are spread by insects, wind, rain and infect young shoots of roses.

Bacterial cancer on a rose trunk.

Description of the disease

Dark brown spots form on young shoots. In the future, deep ulcers form at the site of the spots, nutrition and growth of the shoot are disturbed. Black spots appear on the foliage. The affected stems dry out, the leaves turn black and crumble.

Treatment of the disease

Trim diseased areas to healthy tissue. Disinfect the cut sites with a 5% solution of copper sulphate, cover with oil paint. Severely affected and dried shoots cut and destroy.
If the disease has spread strongly throughout the bush, then it is better to dig up such a rose and burn it.

Stem Cancer Prevention

Treatment of rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulphate before shelter for the winter and in the spring after removing the shelter. A 1% Bordeaux mixture is also suitable for spraying.

Viral diseases of roses

Viral infections appear on the foliage as a variety of alternating light and dark green spots. various shapes. It can be a mosaic pattern or an annular spot. Leaves and buds are deformed, the rose lags behind in growth, blooms poorly.

There are several types of viral diseases of roses with similar symptoms. Only a specialist can determine which virus has infected a plant.
Viral wilt

With viral wilt, the bush stops developing, the leaves become narrow, filiform and dry out. Gradually, the bush dies.

What does a diseased bush look like

The mosaic virus has infected the rose bush.

Small yellowish or light green spots appear on the leaves, which spread throughout the leaf blade, forming a mosaic pattern. Depending on the type of virus, spots can be of various shapes and spread to young shoots and buds. There is a deformation of the leaves and petals. Bushes lag behind in growth, bloom poorly.

To date, does not exist effective drugs for the treatment of viral diseases. You can stop the development of the disease by cutting off diseased leaves and sections of stems. Rose bushes heavily affected by the virus must be removed from the garden so that the disease does not spread to other plants.

Prevention of viral diseases

Timely detection and destruction of infected bushes.

Control of aphids, nematodes, thrips and other sucking insects that carry diseases.

Disinfection of garden tools after working with diseased plants. For processing, you can use alcohol, 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

Continuation of the topic:

For effective treatment roses, it is important to notice the onset of the disease in time and properly help the flower cope with it. Without knowledge of the signs of diseases and methods of treatment, this will not be possible.

powdery mildew

The disease appears in early summer. Then, when the fungus Sphaeroteca pannosa, which causes it, is activated after wintering. He likes warm, rainy weather with sudden changes in temperature.

It is easy to recognize it by its white coating. The plant appears to be floured. The raid appears first on lower leaves, then gradually rises to the top of the plant. In the advanced stage, brown dots form on the affected leaves, they curl and dry out. The rose stops blooming.

For treatment, a systemic fungicide should be used. For example, Fundazol. Dilute 10 grams of the substance / 10 liters of water. To obtain a homogeneous solution, the substance is first diluted in a small amount of water, then topped up.

Processing is carried out three times with an interval of 10 days. After the last operation, two weeks later, the rose is sprayed with any biofungicide, such as Fitosporin.

Rose diseases are mainly found in the flower beds of inexperienced gardeners who pay little attention to pre-planting soil treatment, the choice of seedlings, and also naively think that flowers do not get sick. So that you also know why rose buds dry, and how to deal with the main diseases of these flowers, below we have prepared instructions for their treatment.

Why do roses get sick

Anyone who loves roses should also know their diseases, as well as the causes of their occurrence. Flowers can hurt different reasons, and basically all of them are associated with the carelessness of the gardener:

So when planting roses, it is important to properly prepare the soil and choose neighbors in the flower bed, and also do not forget about regular feeding and pruning. If you had to deal with diseases of roses, then we have prepared their description and treatment below.

Did you know? Roses are not only a garden crop, they are also found in the wild, and some of them are able to show incredible endurance. For example, there is a variety of these flowers, which has successfully taken root even in the Arctic Circle.

Methods of dealing with infectious burns

Infectious burn appears on rose bushes in the form of reddish spots, which over time can be reborn and completely kill the plant. The cause of this rosary problem is excessive accumulation of moisture under cover during winter, excess nitrogen fertilizer in the soil, and weakening of shoots due to the presence of wounds. The fungus that causes rose blight can be transmitted from plant to plant through pruning shears.

The most effective way to deal with an infectious burn is to regularly carry out its prevention:

remove leaves and shoots that have infection lesions;
before sheltering for the winter, spray the bushes and the soil around them with a solution of iron sulfate (about 30 g per liter of water);
it is necessary to cover rose bushes only in dry weather with an air temperature not higher than + 10 ° С;
after removing the shelter from the bushes, they can also be treated with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%;
while pruning shoots on roses, all tools must be disinfected;
vegetative shoots, it is important to get rid of the affected areas by cutting them out and treating them with garden pitch.

How to remove rust from roses and why it appears

Another disease is rose rust, the causative agent of which is presented in the form of a particularly dangerous fungus. He is able to spray his own spores, thereby affecting neighboring plants. You can notice rust on rose bushes in the spring, as this disease leads to cracking of last year's shoots and pollen from them. Weak plants that lack nutrients and moisture are most susceptible to this disease. In some cases, the appearance of rust is caused by weather conditions.

In order to prevent the appearance of rust on roses and help flowers get rid of it, it is important to use the following rules:

Try to open rose bushes as early as possible in the spring so that they do not get tired.
Affected and dead shoots must be cut and burned.
To maintain the vital activity of the affected plants, they are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, adding 4 g per liter of water.
In order not to bring the disease into the rose garden through an infected seedling, be sure to dip it in a 1% solution of copper sulfate before planting.
If you cannot get rid of the rust on the plant within a year, donate it, otherwise the infection will spread to other inhabitants of the flower bed.

Also, do not forget that roses like to grow in a sunny place and need saturated fertile soil. The soil under the rose bushes should have good drainage, and the acidity should not go beyond the value of 7.5. Strong bushes will be more resistant to rust.

Important! For good growth roses require a lot of moisture, but they need to be watered rarely, but very plentifully.

Powdery mildew: removing powdery mildew from the leaves and stem of a plant

This disease does not manifest itself only if the air humidity does not rise above 60%, and the temperature is in the range from 16 to 18 ° C. In a situation with unstable weather conditions it is difficult to avoid it. Often, powdery mildew forms mold on roses, which makes them completely unsightly, since the disease affects stems, leaves, buds, and even thorns. The longer the plant hurts, the more extensive the plaque spots become. Since powdery mildew often affects young shoots of plants, without taking measures to combat the disease, the rose may not bloom.

To cope with powdery mildew and prevent its recurrence, it is necessary to resort to such measures:

1. Every autumn, cut off all diseased shoots, and burn the leaves that have fallen from them.

2. Digging a flower bed, in which the raised layer must be turned over, which will lead to the death of pathogens from insufficient air.

3. Spraying roses in the fall with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.

4. Spraying bushes during the growing season with a copper-soap solution (200-300 household or liquid soap for 9 liters of rainwater, into which it is necessary to pour another liter of water, in which 25-30 g of copper sulphate were previously dissolved).

5. Spraying roses with a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1%). This is necessary to stimulate the growth of plants, as well as increase their "immunity" to the disease.

6. Fertilizing flowers with fertilizers that contain potassium. But in no case should you use nitrogen, as it will only aggravate the situation.

7. When powdery mildew on roses progresses especially strongly, the bushes can be sprayed with a solution of 50 g of soda ash in 10 liters of water.

8. In autumn and spring, the soil around the bushes should be fertilized with ash in a concentration of not more than 120 g per 1 m2. At the same time, it must be slightly covered with the top layer of soil. Infusion of ash diseased bushes can be sprayed (to do this, prepare a solution of 100 g of ash and 10 liters of water, which must stand for 5 days), which must be done every 7 days.

9. An infusion of mullein will also help fight the mycelium, which will need about 1 kg per 10 liters of water. Spraying should also be done once a week.

It is important to spray the bushes until the traces of powdery mildew completely disappear.

Important! Hilling roses is necessary not with peat, but with ordinary sand. Thanks to this, at the first thaw, the bushes will not begin to grow, but will continue to sleep until real heat arrives.

Leaf spot and its elimination

You can get rid of spotting only by applying a whole range of measures:

it is important to immediately cut off and burn all affected shoots and leaves;
every autumn, digging of the soil is carried out, in which it is important to completely turn the layers of soil over to limit air access;
usage a special preparation for spraying bushes, which should be carried out both in autumn and early spring.

How to deal with gray rot: a description of the disease

Gray rot it is dangerous because, with almost completely healthy shoots, the affected rose bushes will still not be able to bloom, since the fungus of this disease often affects the buds and upper parts of the shoots. Whites and pink roses that receive insufficient nutrition and moisture. Gray rot mycelium is quite resistant to temperature extremes, therefore it calmly survives the winter, and in the spring continues its reproduction with the help of spores.

This disease is also inherent in strawberry and wild strawberry bushes, planting roses near which is not recommended. To prevent the development of gray rot, rose bushes should be planted in a wide enough space so that each plant is well lit. It is better to water roses in the morning or in the middle of the day, because after evening watering they will not have time to dry out by night.

It is better to pluck and burn all affected plants in order to destroy the fungus itself. At the first signs of gray rot, you can use a decoction of forest horsetail for spraying, and if the lesions have spread greatly through the bushes, it is better to resort to a solution of foundationol in an amount of 0.2% per liter of water.

Bacterial cancer on roses

Rose bacterial canker is one of the most common problems gardeners have to deal with. This disease can affect not only the stems, but also the roots of the flower, which is why it is rarely possible to save it.

root cancer

This type of disease is characterized by the formation of hard growths on the roots of the plant, which eventually begin to rot. This leads to the drying of the bush, as the growths prevent moisture from entering the shoots. The reason for the development of root cancer in rose bushes is damage to their root system during planting, as well as growing flowers on clay soils With high content nitrogen.

If you notice such symptoms on your rose bushes, be sure to cut off all growths and dip the entire root system for 2-3 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate. After that, the roots are washed in water, and the plant can be planted in specially prepared soil.

However, if the roots of the rose are completely affected by cancer, and there are traces of it even on the root collar, it is better to burn the plant immediately.

The stem cancer of the rose needs immediate treatment, since its pathogen reacts stably even to severe winter frosts and can rage especially intensively in the spring. It can take up to 3 years for a plant to fully heal.

In the process of fighting stem cancer in rose bushes, it is important to regularly inspect the flowers and remove any affected areas. Every year, when the buds swell, the affected bushes must be treated with a solution of zinc sulfate (to do this, dilute 300 g of the substance in a liter of water).

For preventive spraying, you can also use solutions from:

copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid - 200 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water;

Copper oxychloride (per 10 l - 40 g of the substance);

Topsina-M (per 10 liters of water - 20 g).

A plant weakened by cancer will also need additional feeding. To do this, at the end of summer, it is useful to strengthen rose bushes with fertilizers rich in potassium. Before sheltering for the winter, it is important to spray such roses with 2% bordeaux acid.

Cytosporosis and its treatment

A symptom of this disease is a cardinal structural change in the bark on the shoots of rose bushes. Under the influence of the causative agent of cytosporosis, it first becomes brown, and then begins to die. Also, over time, many inflamed tubercles appear on the surface of the affected areas, and the bark itself begins to urinate.

Treatment of cytosporosis consists in treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux liquid. This treatment is important to carry out even before the blooming of the bushes. All affected areas of the plant must be cut and burned in a timely manner.

Did you know? Sometimes small rosebuds are not the result of a lack of care for flowers or their diseases, but a feature of the variety. So, in a variety of roses called "Ci", the size of a flowering bud does not exceed the size of one grain of rice.

Viral wilt

This disease is also quite common. It is characterized by the painful development of bushes: shoots and leaves grow strongly, but at the same time they have a deformed appearance, the leaves are filiform in shape. Over time, the shoots and leaves become brown, as a result, buds do not form on the bushes; by the end of summer, such a bush usually dries up.

Fighting viral wilt is almost impossible. It is important to cut and burn all affected shoots in a timely manner, and if the disease has affected the entire bush, it will be right to dig it up and burn it completely. It should be understood that viral wilt can be transmitted from bush to bush through a pruner, which is important to disinfect when working in a rose garden.

Disease prevention

Preventive actions to prevent the appearance of diseases on rose bushes are important to carry out annually. In particular, the treatment of roses from fungus with the help of Bordeaux liquid should be carried out both in the fall, before sheltering the bushes from frost, and in the spring, even before they begin to grow. When planting rose bushes, it is also important to prepare clean, nutritious soil that is free of fungi and other pathogens.

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