What material to put together a veranda from. How to build a veranda with your own hands - an open and closed extension to the house. For a multi-level terrace

The terrace is in some way the face of the house - it expresses the main preferences of the owner. Being a recreation area, the terrace is as comfortable as possible for both peaceful relaxation and noisy company.

Place for a terrace

Terraces can be adjacent to the house, surround it around the perimeter, or be located at a distance from the building. In this capacity, with skillful design, you can use a balcony or patio.

Very often the question arises - how to orient the terrace to the cardinal directions? It is believed that it is best to arrange it on the south side– here the terrace will be illuminated for the longest time all year round. However, it is important to provide some kind of canopy over it - on hot days it will be uncomfortable to be here. You can use sliding curtains, roller blinds, awnings.

Terrace With west side home will be comfortable in the afternoon. In summer it is warm here until late in the evening. East orientation The good thing about the terrace is that it will be pleasant to start the morning here - the sun is not yet shining at this time. On hot days here best place for the summer dining room. North terrace the house will always be in the shade, so it is often extended in the direction from the walls of the house deep into the site. In this case, some part of the terrace will still be illuminated by the sun. It should not be closed.

Materials for building terraces

The choice of finishing materials depends on the style of the house, your preferences and the desired quality. If we talk about the last criterion, then the material that will become the covering of a durable terrace must meet three requirements: be frost-resistant, abrasion-resistant and non-slip.

Frost-resistant materials are indicated on the packaging with a “snowflake”. As a rule, they also have a low moisture absorption coefficient. (experts recommend considering moisture absorption of no more than 3%). The less the coating absorbs moisture, the less susceptible it is to deformation during repeated freezing and thawing.

The importance of low abrasion is difficult to overestimate for exterior finishing. Sand on the coating works no worse than an abrasive. Therefore, to preserve the original aesthetic appearance of the terrace, preference should be given to materials with a very high abrasion class. For example, ceramic tiles must be at least class IV abrasion class. In the case of choosing products made of stone and concrete, it is recommended to study abrasion using the Boehm method: this is how the loss of height of the sample is measured - materials that are most resistant to abrasion lose no more than 4-5 mm.

The safety of the terrace is largely determined by the anti-slip effect of the coating - slippery coatings pose a threat to your personal safety. There is even a special designation: materials marked R 9-13 are suitable for terraces.

Among the most common finishing materials for terraces are ceramics (clinker, gres), wood, wood-polymer composite boards, concrete tiles And natural stone. These materials meet the above characteristics in varying degrees, however, they are good options for a compromise solution quality+safety+aesthetics. It is worth noting that only such terrace coverings as wood and WPC do not require a concrete base.

CERAMICS

Ceramic tiles are the most common type finishing material for terraces. This is due various options offered by manufacturers: shape and color allow you to solve most design issues. Among the species ceramic tiles It is worth noting gres (ceramic granite) and clinker. Gres, which is made from kaolin, mineral dyes and feldspar, has low water absorption and would be a good choice for finishing terraces. However, you should not give in to the temptation and purchase polished gres: not all manufacturers give it an anti-slip effect. Unpolished gres, also known as technical, will be the best solution– the material is durable, with a low degree of wear and almost minimal deformation during operation. The thickness of the tiles can be from 6 to 30 mm. Optimal sizes products for the terrace – 45x45 or 30x60 cm.

Practically perfect choice You can also use clinker for your terrace - it meets the characteristics of frost resistance and low water absorption (0.5-0.7%). Clinker is made from clay fired at high temperatures, and its natural color is red or brown. Manufacturers of building materials offer both glazed and unglazed clinker. Glazed, of course, impresses with its variety of texture and color. But, as in the case of gres, you should pay attention to the presence of an anti-slip coating. The thickness of the tiles is from 10 to 16 mm.

Ceramic tiles on the terrace are also a good solution because they are not prone to deformation and change in color and texture during use. It is easy to maintain, and its price rarely goes beyond the average price segment.

If your choice is clinker or gres, you will have to come to terms with their shortcomings. So, ceramics accumulate heat - on a hot day you are unlikely to be able to walk on it barefoot. There is also a possibility of plaque formation on clinker. But the most unpleasant drawback is still the seams. Firstly, during installation you need to monitor the width of the joints (unless you want to hide the transition from one tile size to another) and carefully select the grouting compound. Secondly, dirt and sand accumulate in the seams. Therefore, almost without exception, caring for ceramic finishes involves cleaning the seams from contamination.

WOOD

If you are inclined to traditional style When designing a terrace, pay attention to the wood. It gives a noble look and is to some extent a status decision. Choosing the appropriate type of wood, caring for it and correctly performing the supporting structure help preserve the material for as long as possible. For finishing it is recommended to use exotic wood species - teak, ipe, cumaru, massaranduba. Their wood contains the necessary biological preservatives that prevent rotting. These species have a beautiful natural pattern, which can always be shaded with wood oil. Color tends to change over time - this is one of the integral characteristics of natural wood; color changes do not affect the quality.

Exotic breeds are, of course, not cheap, but they have good reason to claim to be good decision for finishing the terrace.

As a compromise, you can use more affordable wood species. For example, oak is considered the most reliable and durable wood. Covered with stain and treated with vacuum impregnation, solid oak can be considered as an option for a terrace. Pine and fir are not suitable - even with abundant impregnation with all sorts of compounds, such a coating will not last long. These species are too soft, their wood is easily damaged. Larch covering will last longer.

There is also heat-treated ash wood. It is stable, durable, and not susceptible to biodestruction.

Choosing any type of wood guarantees leveling of visible slope and ease of installation. The wooden covering of the terrace makes it possible to create an original combination with the terraced area. In addition, in hot weather, wood will not act like a hot frying pan, as is the case with ceramic tiles.

Among those characteristics that can definitely be attributed to disadvantages, it should be mentioned that during rainfall the wood becomes slippery. It tends to change color with inevitable exposure to the sun. Any natural coating, and especially wood, requires maintenance - cleaning and seasonal treatment.

DPK

WPC (wood-polymer composite) decking boards also find their fans. WPC is made from wood flour with the addition of modifiers and dyes. Installation terrace boards simple, their frame elements with fastening allow you to create a flat “nail-free” space. The coating of the boards is frost-resistant. The presence of grooves provided by the design creates an anti-slip effect.

WPC decking boards have all the characteristics to be perfect coverage compared to natural wood, – they look neat and do not change color. When heated, the material changes its linear dimensions, so it is necessary to provide gaps between the wall and the panels, otherwise installation is extremely simple. Also, WPC boards do not require seasonal processing.

The only one possible disadvantage becomes a price that is usually higher than the average price segment.

NATURAL STONE

Another attractive material for finishing a terrace is natural stone. As with wood, it will harmonize with the natural environment and provide the opportunity to create interesting combinations. Commonly used stone tiles are granite, syenite and basalt. But slates are more durable. Sand rocks require special care. One way or another, all breeds and types of natural stone vary in their degree of wear.

Depending on the texture of the chosen tile, it is worth making a slope of up to 3-5%. Further, the principle of laying natural stone differs little from laying ceramic tiles. True, the possible troubles with the seams will still be the same: you need to strictly monitor the distance, avoid getting the mixture on the tiles during installation, and take care of the finish during use.

Like every natural material, stone tiles require regular care – seasonal coating with impregnant. The stone may become very hot. And although massive stone slabs inspire a feeling of strength and reliability, they can still break if damaged. strong impact. Otherwise, natural stone is pleasant to use.

Of course, the choice of finishing material will depend on your preferences and correspond to the aesthetic design, money and effort that you are willing to spend. Materials chosen wisely will reflect your love and care for your home.

Text: Natalia Rak

Terraces to a house are most often constructed from wood, even if the house is made primarily from other building materials. This is due to the availability of the material, ease of processing and plays an important role appearance wood.

What is a terrace and why is it needed?

At its core, a terrace is a continuation of the house, an extension to it. The shape and purpose of the area can be anything. The terrace is usually used as a place to relax. But sometimes it does the option summer kitchen or garden, depending on the design.

As a rule, a terrace is an open area with or without a roof - which is why there are many options for how to design it. The terrace is an extension to the house, so before starting installation, you will have to obtain a building permit if the house design did not include it previously. The object will require correct calculation, since it has a base and load-bearing parts. How to do this correctly is described below.

Selection of material for construction

As already mentioned, it was decided to build the frame from wood. You need to choose timber coniferous species– it has its own antiseptic properties and is able to preserve the structure on its own. However, this does not relieve owners of the responsibility for regular treatment.

In addition, before purchasing, you should make sure that all the wood is free from damage, knots, and cracks. They can affect the strength of the frame and its bearing capacity. Before completion of the work, all material must be stored in a separate place for safety during the entire process. After work, the structure is immediately processed.

Calculation of a wooden terrace for a house

As a rule, timber with a cross-section of up to 150 mm is used for the frame, but it is also possible large values, if the terrace area allows for summer receptions there. More details in the table:

As you can see, as the height increases, the site parameters decrease - this is natural. To maintain the intended value, timber should be installed in sufficient quantity.

The rafter system requires a special calculation of the frame for a wooden terrace - terraces can have a roof. If doubt arises, then for reliability, a polycarbonate roof is recommended - it will not discord with the rest of the covering, its weight is light, therefore, wood of a smaller section can be used. An inch board is best suited for sheathing.

Otherwise, if the owners wish not to change the material, the roof will require a separate project for the rafter system. Below are instructions for building a wooden frame.

Installation

Work will begin with choosing the base for the terrace. The extension is light, despite the presence of a roof, so a better columnar foundation cannot be found.

The height of the pillars should correspond to the level of the base of the house. Depth – the level of soil freezing. How to make it:

The area under the pillars is leveled - turf and soil are removed in sufficient quantities to fill the pits with sand and crushed stone, as well as reinforcement.
You can use ready-made reinforced concrete products or make removable formwork as for an ordinary foundation.
The frequency of installation of pillars is determined by the area of the terrace - for example, three posts should be 9 m long. Also, we must not forget that the floor joists must receive support.
After pouring, the foundation is given time to shrink - it is slightly less than for a monolithic one - up to three weeks. After time has elapsed - the pillars are checked for the position of the ends in the same plane - it is impossible to say how the soil will behave during shrinkage.

The columnar foundation can subsequently be made decorative by lining it with stone or brick. Or use special basement siding for this.

Frame

Finished pillars should be waterproofed - concrete is able to absorb moisture and transfer it to the wood. The beams themselves should also be waterproofed, or there is an alternative - lay larch boards around the perimeter. This type of wood does not come into contact with moisture at all. Next:

The timber for the frame is connected to each other using the “claw” method. If the shape is incorrect, you should try on all the components in advance and mark where to cut.

Grooves for the floor joists are cut out in advance in the timber. You can fasten wood using nails, staples or reliable self-tapping screws.

The logs are installed in the grooves according to the design, but not less than 60 cm apart. Subfloors should be laid immediately for ease of installation of the frame.
The racks are set up - timber with a cross section of 150 mm. Its height is different, if it is necessary to form a slope for the melting of snow masses - the longest racks are adjacent to the house.

The upper ends are tied and grooves for the logs are cut out on the timber rafter system. A middle frame is also used, which will subsequently serve as a fencing for the terrace.

Actually, polycarbonate can be laid directly over the joists, but if the terrace area is large, then sheathing will be required - timber with a cross-section of 50 mm.

So, wooden frame terraces are ready. The finishing begins.

Roofing and decor

Work on processing the finished frame is completed before laying the selected roof. This is necessary so that the logs and the rest of the wood of the rafter system receive protection before they are covered with polycarbonate or other roofing. So - wood is subject to any processing:

Coloring. The palette is varied, and the color is easy to match to the tone of a residential building or other adjacent structure.
Varnishing.
Matting.
Selecting a tree pattern. This can be facilitated by glazing compounds that have antibactericidal properties.

By choosing your own style, you can make your terrace individual. In addition, as already mentioned, the middle frame frame can become a terrace fencing - the voids are filled with carved gratings or plywood processed with a jigsaw. Nothing is impossible for home craftsmen.

Floors. The terrace is an open object, so there is no question of insulation. However, the floorboard will have to be protected - moisture will be constantly present during the rainy season. Therefore, boards intended for the floor are filled with some gaps - they will allow water to drain and protect the area from deformation if the wood begins to swell.

Next is the roof decking. By choosing polycarbonate, owners will receive large number heat and light - plastic allows them to pass through in sufficient quantities. Therefore, if the goal is to relax in the shade, then the sheets are selected in the appropriate color - light shades are able to reflect radiation and not heat up.

The polycarbonate is attached to special thermal washers - the edge of the sheet is fixed with self-tapping screws, the connecting profile is put on, the next sheet is inserted, and so on. The master should remember that the eaves overhangs should extend 30-40 cm from the edge of the site, this will allow rain to flow onto the ground and not onto the wood.

IN mandatory, from the inside and at the ends, plastic raw materials should be closed from the accumulation of condensation. A special profile is put on the ends, and a special waterproofing film is glued to the inside of the sheet.

At the dacha you can easily equip your own relaxation place, where you can have a great time fresh air with family or friends. The easiest option is to start building a terrace to the house. This will allow not only to organize gatherings, but also to receive sunbathing, or enjoy a delicious dinner. If desired, you can perfectly protect the structure from bad weather and dust, and also arrange it as part of the house.

The terrace is a fairly practical building. It is a wooden flooring, the area of which is enough to accommodate a large number of people. You can place a barbecue or recreation area on it. In addition, the decorative possibilities of the terrace are limitless.

Design features of the terrace

If there is no experience in constructing a terrace, you should create an open summer deck attached to country house from timber. To properly construct the structure, you will need to familiarize yourself in detail with all stages of construction. It is important to correctly develop a terrace project, select materials, install the structure, and complete the finishing. Each stage should be considered in more detail.

First you need to decide on the design of the future building. It may be open or have a small canopy. The terrace can also be equipped as a full-fledged veranda with sliding windows. The final decision should be made only after taking into account all factors.

Among the presented options, the more interesting design is in the form open area. It has several features:

The deck in most cases is an open wooden deck that is built on the same foundation as the house. It can also be installed on a separate base - in the case of adding a terrace to an already finished building.
The terrace is usually not protected from the wind by awnings or walls. The main purpose of this design is summer vacation.
The terrace fencing is a railing. It is not equipped with walls.
The terrace is usually placed near one of the walls of the house. The building can also be completely ringed wooden flooring. The veranda, unlike the terrace, should be attached to the entrance to the house.
This flooring has enough large area, which allows you to accommodate a fairly large number of guests during your vacation.

A building like this has quite a lot of similarities with a terrace. garden gazebo. This design is also most often made open and can be attached to the house with your own hands. The main difference is the mandatory presence of railings at the gazebo. The terrace may have neither railings nor fencing.

Location

Where the gazebo will be located depends on many factors. Among them are the following circumstances:

Most often, for installing a terrace, they choose the side of the house that is illuminated by the sun for the most time during the day.
Of particular importance when choosing a vacation spot is the view that opens from the observation deck.
It is also important to choose a design that will be as economical as possible in terms of location on a certain ground.
Exterior of a personal plot - it is better that the terrace fits harmoniously into the overall style of the building and the landscape.

A terrace can also be built near the pool. Its shape can be round or rectangular, and also have complex shapes.

Multi-level terraces are especially attractive. By creating such a design, the need to create separate steps is eliminated. It also becomes possible to provide efficient drainage.

The terrace is usually placed:

directly at one of the sides of the house in such a way that the structure becomes an extension of the house;
around the building;
separately from the house - at a certain distance from it.

Such design layout options are the most common. In each of them, the design is practical and attractive.

Selection of material

What material should you choose to build a beautiful and comfortable terrace? There are quite a lot of options:

During the construction of the terrace it is not necessary to purchase new materials. It is enough to use the remains that were obtained as a result of the construction of the house. The basic rule to follow is concrete blocks must not have any defects. They should also be reliably protected from exposure to various natural phenomena. Only with such preparation will the terrace stand for decades.

Project

Before starting work on adding a terrace to country house you should understand the basic subtleties of designing such a structure. If the drawing is drawn up correctly, the terrace will be stronger and of higher quality.

First, you need to decide which components of the structure should be included in the project. First of all, the drawing should show technical specifications terraces:

area - the exact dimensions of the structure and its individual elements are entered into the drawing;
materials used;
mass of terrace components;
type of foundation installed under the terrace.

When creating a project, you should take into account both your tastes and the characteristics of the place where you plan to build a terrace. It is important to take into account the condition of the soil (type and structure), as well as the condition of the wall of the house to which the structure will be attached. In addition, the mass of the terrace should be correlated with the type of foundation. It is also necessary to take into account the climate of the area and weather conditions.

If the terrace will have complex shape, it is better to contact specialist designers. Only a person with an engineering education will be able to correctly calculate possible loads and take into account all the subtleties of the construction of the structure.

Project approval

Before adding a terrace to wooden house, you should contact several services. Regardless of the size and purpose of the building, all changes that will be made to the original design of the building should be agreed upon with the following authorities:

sanitary and epidemiological control body;
fire safety authority;
local administration.

If there are unregistered buildings, they will be considered unauthorized construction, which will not allow the house to be sold in the future or used as collateral.

Open terrace construction technology

Construction of the terrace includes several important stages. Each of them must be performed in compliance with certain rules. The following stages of terrace construction should be followed:

erection of the foundation for the structure;
laying flooring;
installation of fencing, installation of roofing, decorative elements.

The last step can be omitted, however, due to the presence additional elements the design will have an original appearance, and will also gain functionality and an attractive appearance.

Construction of the foundation

Before attaching a terrace to the house, it is necessary to create a foundation. The base can be made ribbon or columnar. However, owners of suburban areas often install a terrace on curb stones. In this case, the work on constructing the terrace is carried out in the following sequence:

Using reinforcement, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the terrace. To increase the convenience of work, you should stretch the cord between the rods.
Temporary supports are placed in the corners, which should have a height of 40 cm. They are often made of bricks.
Logs can be laid on the supports. Using a spirit level will help level them to ensure an inclination of approximately 2 degrees. This indicator is optimal for ensuring good precipitation runoff.
It is necessary to align the cord along the top of the logs, and then remove the wooden elements.
Concrete pillars are installed in place of temporary supports. Between them it is necessary to dig trenches into which the curb stone will be laid. Then the base structure is filled with concrete mortar.
Stones are being installed.
When the mixture has completely hardened, the spaces between each base element are filled with expanded clay to ensure maximum thermal insulation.

If the house was recently built, the foundations of the terrace and the house should not be connected. Such a decision will subsequently result in the destruction of the building - during the shrinkage of the building, the structure will be deformed. When building a terrace in the case of a house that has been built a long time ago, you should connect the foundations with metal fasteners.

Creating a deck

The most popular way to create a deck is to lay planks of natural wood. The work of constructing a terrace at the dacha is carried out in the following sequence:

logs are laid on the foundation;
mark the points where the bars will be attached;
fix the bars on metal corners;
lay the boards - first they should be carefully treated with special compounds against insects and fungus;
to make the flooring look more attractive, its edges should be trimmed;
The surface of the boards is covered with paint or varnish.

It is better to use larch to construct the flooring. This is explained by the fact that it is rich in natural resins, so it is ideal for constructing a terrace.

Roofing installations

If the terrace is covered, you should approach the installation of the roof correctly. In addition, such an element will give the structure an original appearance.

There are several roof options for the terrace:

a roof that matches the design of the house - it is laid on rafters made of timber, which are attached to the top frame;
polycarbonate roof;
slate roof ( interesting option material - transparent slate);
removable roof, which is made from a stretched awning.

There is no special need to build a roof. From sun rays A simple umbrella can protect. However, it will have to be constantly brought to the site.

To make the terrace more attractive appearance, it can be decorated with various elements. For example, if the terrace is open, it can be equipped with beautiful railings with carved balusters.

Be sure to install various elements on the terrace that will provide maximum comfortable stay. Even if you need to create an open terrace, you can make a simple but beautiful fence.

Competent construction of extensions for various purposes can not only expand the living area of the house, but also improve its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. The construction of a veranda adjacent to the house, regardless of the type of structure, requires careful development of the project, with the determination of materials and construction technology.

Proper execution and approval of project documentation by government authorities will not only insure against problems with the law, but will also help to draw up a plan and estimate for the structure.

Design

A typical veranda is a roofed frame structure built on a strip or column foundation, with glass or half glass walls. The statement that the veranda should be built from the same materials as the main building, with the emergence of new styles and fashion trends in architecture, has lost its relevance.

In the photos below - ready-made solutions verandas attached to the house, with different principles compatibility. In some cases, the new extension is made of the same materials and is completely combined with the house, in others the new is combined with preservation common elements– roofs, beams, etc.

There are also projects in which original design The extension introduces a new architectural touch, updating the exterior.

When choosing materials and construction technologies, you should also take into account the parameters of proper ventilation, moisture resistance and thermal insulation. With full glazing, it is necessary to provide opening segments for ventilation.

In case it is being built open veranda, or as it is also called - a summer terrace, you need to take care of the frost-resistant cladding and the slope of the floor towards the site.

Designs with removable frames are optimal for year-round use. Installation of large sliding doors will also allow the building to be used in a dual-mode version.

IN standard project The area of the veranda is rectangular and ranges from 10 to 15 sq.m. For smaller areas it will be too cramped; for larger ones, additional reinforcement for the roof will be required. Polygonal and semicircular foundations are also possible.

According to its location, the veranda can be corner, end or facade. An original solution can be considered the construction of a terrace around the entire perimeter of the house, which can have glazed, open and closed areas for various purposes: they can accommodate a hallway, a recreation area, and a large storage room.

Foundation

The foundation of terraces and verandas attached to the house must fit tightly to the main building, but at the same time have independent supports.

The strip foundation is suitable for large and heavy structures; in all other cases it can be erected columnar foundation. When pouring concrete, you need to leave a gap of 3-4 cm with the main wall, which will subsequently be filled with waterproofing foam.

At the first stage of preparation for construction, the soil is cleaned and compacted. Then, for the pillars, corner holes are dug along the depth of the house foundation (about 1 m on average), a cushion is made of crushed stone, gravel and sand, onto which concrete is poured.

After setting, asbestos or asbestos supports are inserted metal pipes. Concrete pillars or brick can also be used. The same method is used to lay high piles for buildings adjacent to the second floor level.

Depending on the area and weight of the terrace, intermediate posts may be needed, installed every half meter.

For the foundation belt type a trench of 30-50 cm is broken, the formwork is placed 15-20 cm higher. Metal reinforcement bars or reinforcing mesh are placed into the soil. Concrete is poured onto a layer of crushed stone and sand.

Wood frame

The frame is assembled from beams or logs with a width of at least 12 cm, which are covered with a waterproofing layer. For the strength of horizontal knitting, experts recommend using fastenings in the foot, the surface of the connection will be at an angle. Vertical posts are secured with diagonal interceptions.

At the final stage, the wooden frame is covered with rafters for the roof. For cladding you can use plywood panels, chipboards, etc.

Construction of a wooden veranda is the best budget solution in terms of materials prices, but when choosing this type of construction you need a professional approach and knowledge of the nuances of construction from wooden beams.

Other materials for verandas

The foam block structure is erected on strip foundation. This type of masonry is easy to do yourself. The masonry is carried out using a special glue, with the seams bandaged for strength.

When finishing, an internal and external waterproofing layer, finishing with plasterboard, wooden panels, moisture-resistant wallpaper and paints are provided. The outer surface can be lined with ventilated facades.

The construction of the structure is made of polycarbonate, a modern and attractive option. This material goes well in buildings with wooden and brick frames.

For a building that consists entirely of bicarbonate panels, you do not need a foundation. The earth can simply be compacted and covered with paving slabs.

The structure is created using aluminum profiles, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of ventilation and water drainage. Polycarbonate panels and frames various types can be tailored to specific needs for lighting and thermal insulation.

Before you attach a veranda to the house, you need to decide on the functions that it will perform. In addition to the necessary drainage and ventilation systems in any case, proper connection to the permanent structure and roof structure, the schedule for using this part of the house is important.

The design and construction of summer verandas differs from the requirements for premises with year-round use. It is also important to note that any extension will require the same care and updating as permanent buildings.

Photo of the veranda attached to the house

The veranda allows you to profitably expand the useful space of a residential building. In a properly constructed and well-equipped extension, you can comfortably spend time both in the warm and cold seasons.

It is best to build the extension so that it covers front door V main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda on any desired side of the already completed main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be separated from the main building and you will have to enter it from across the street.

The dimensions of the extension are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people, a veranda measuring 3x4 m is enough. It is also important to consider general view from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. For compact houses, you can safely add verandas the width of the entire wall of the main building - it looks great.

Important note! Regardless of the chosen dimensions and the overall features of the extension, its construction must first be legalized. To do this, you must have a project on hand. You can find it in open sources or order it from a specialized company.

WITH finished project head to your local architecture department. Department employees will study your project, make the necessary changes and issue a permit. Keep in mind that on average it takes about 2-3 months to review and approve a project, so it is best to resolve this issue in the winter, before the start of the construction season.

Construction site marking

We are starting to prepare our construction site.

First step. We remove about 150 mm of the top layer of soil from the perimeter of the future building and take it to the flower beds, vegetable garden or other place.

Second step. Align the resulting depression.

Third step. We carry out the markings. First, focusing on the project, we drive in metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then in the same way we drive in intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then we pull a rope between the pins. We will use it to guide us in the process of arranging the foundation.

Making the foundation

Most often, verandas are built on columnar or strip type foundations. The depth of the support is assumed to be equal to the depth of the foundation of the main house. It is strongly not recommended to connect the main support to the foundation of the extension, because these structures will have widely varying weights. Consequently, the degree of their shrinkage will also vary. To prevent a heavy house from dragging down a relatively light extension, the latter must be built on a separate foundation. To do this, leave approximately a 3-4 cm gap between the foundations.

Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, consider, first of all, the soil characteristics in your region and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on heaving soils, monolithic ones are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on columnar supports.

Tape base

A strip-type foundation is optimally suited for the further construction of a veranda on it from building blocks or bricks. The thickness of the base, as already noted, is maintained equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, keep the thickness at 70-80 cm.

First step. We dig a trench around the perimeter of the walls of the extension.

Second step. We level the bottom and walls of the trench using wooden boards or panels to the height of the future concrete support.

Third step. We successively fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of sand and the same layer of crushed stone, making sure to compact each ball of backfill.

Fourth step. We lay a reinforcing mesh of 10-12 mm bars. The recommended mesh size is 10x10 cm. This way the base will be as strong as possible.

Fifth step. We pour concrete prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 portions of crushed stone and water.

Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In hot weather, we pour concrete every day to prevent it from cracking.

Columnar base

Perfect for a veranda made of timber or polycarbonate. It is recommended to make holes for posts with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small (up to about 3x4 m), it will be enough to install supports in the corners. However, professional builders recommend installing intermediate posts for any size veranda. We maintain the distance between supports within 0.8-1 m.

First step. We dig holes in the places where the pillars will be poured. The most convenient way to do this is with a drill.

Second step. We fill the bottom of each depression with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. Additionally, it is recommended to pour approximately 10 cm of crushed stone. We compact each layer.

Third step. Pour the concrete to the ground level and let it harden.

Fourth step. We coat the finished concrete supports with bitumen.

Fifth step. We fill the gaps between the ground and the supports with sand.

Sixth step. We erect the above-ground part of the pillars from brick. We make the height equal height the foundation of the main house.

Making a subfloor

The floor can be wooden or concrete. For example, in frame veranda made of wooden beams, a wooden floor would be more appropriate. Concrete pouring will best fit into a brick extension.

We make a wooden subfloor like this:

fix the beam on the foundation bottom trim. We use suitable fasteners, for example, anchors. To connect the beams directly, we first make samples at the places of their joints and additionally fasten them with galvanized nails;
attach to the bottom harness wooden joists. We keep the step at 50 cm - this way the floor will definitely not fall through. We use the connection option described above;
fill the space between the joists with expanded clay;
We make the flooring from unedged boards or plywood with a thickness of about 50 mm. We attach the flooring elements to the joists with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We make a concrete screed like this:

fill the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
pour a layer on top;
lay the reinforcing mesh. For the floor of the veranda, a mesh of rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 25x25 cm is sufficient;
pour concrete.

Important! The screed should be as even as possible. We carry out the work with the obligatory use of a level.

Building a wooden veranda

Basic properties of the material

Wood is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other low-cost and easy-to-arrange elements, wood practically did not lose ground.

Almost anyone can handle the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda. You just need to properly mount the frame posts and cover them with shields, clapboard or other suitable material.

The undeniable advantages of wood are its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively low weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the construction of expensive and difficult to construct foundations.

The main disadvantage of a wooden veranda is its fire hazard - installing a barbecue in such an extension or in the immediate vicinity of it is a very important undertaking that requires taking into account many nuances and details. Therefore, it is better to move the source of fire somewhere further outside the wooden veranda.

Another significant disadvantage of wood is its poor tolerance to high humidity, which is why the material requires serious pre-treatment with special ones. Without such preparation, the wood will rot very quickly.

Construction order

To build the frame, we use high-quality wooden beams with a cross-section of 100x100 mm. We already have the bottom trim and subfloor, so we continue to work, adhering to the instructions below.

First step. We cut grooves in the beam of the lower trim for installing vertical supports. We maintain a half-meter step.

Second step. We install vertical racks. To fasten the frame elements we use staples and screws or nails.

Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be sloping. That's why vertical beam installed at the bottom point of the slope, we make it 50 cm below the opposite posts.

Third step. We mount the beam of the upper trim. On higher racks no questions will arise - we perform the connections in exactly the same way as in the previous stages.

When installing the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the pillars longitudinally with a strapping beam, and then we fix the transverse crossbars connecting the high and low posts at the height of the low posts. We fasten the crossbars to the high posts using pre-created samples and nails.

Fourth step. The top trim is ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. Additionally, we nail a girder near the roof slope. To fasten the beam to all supports, we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability, it is recommended to fasten the strapping beams with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary (we focus on the weight of the future roofing material). We will attach racks and struts to them for greater strength of the rafter system.

Fifth step. We install in increments of 50 cm. For this we use a wooden beam with a section of 100x200 mm. We connect structural elements using any of the previously discussed methods.

Sixth step. We cover the frame. Lining is perfect for interior cladding, and siding or other material for exterior cladding. We lay layers of hydro- and thermal insulation between the external and internal cladding materials. We attach the film to the frame. The position of the insulation is fixed by transverse slats. The finishing material is also attached to them. When covering, do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.

Prices for various types of timber

Brick verandas

Basic information about building materials

Brick is excellent for constructing permanent verandas. A building made from this material will be cool in the summer and, provided the insulation is properly insulated, warm in the winter. Brickwork durable, fireproof and easy to maintain.

The main disadvantage of a brick building is its heavy weight. Such structures are built exclusively on , which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.

The procedure for constructing a veranda

The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is poured, the base is level and there are no additional preparatory activities does not require. Let's start laying out the walls.

Pre-select suitable look masonry The simplest options, perfect for self-construction verandas are as follows:

spoon masonry. The final wall thickness will be 120 mm;
bonded masonry. Wall thickness – 250 mm;
chain laying. Allows you to obtain walls with a thickness of 380 mm.

First step. We attach a mooring cord to two opposite ends of the foundation with a tie. It should run along the edge of the base.

Second step. We place the corner bricks along the cord, and then fill the space between them in accordance with the chosen masonry method. For fastening building elements We use standard cement mortar.

Third step. We check the evenness of the first row and similarly lay out the walls to the required height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.

Important! will be inclined, so we make the wall at the bottom of the slope, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, a row lower compared to the wall supporting the top of the roof.

Having laid out the last row of walls, we arrange an armored belt. To do this, we fix formwork about 70 mm high on each wall along the upper surface of the walls, place anchor bolts in the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.

We let the concrete harden, and then attach a strapping of wooden beams with a section of 10x10 cm to the anchor bolts. The further procedure for arranging the rafter system remains similar to the situation with

If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the walls can be laid in two rows, filling the gap between the rows thermal insulation material. For single masonry insulation, moisture insulation and interior decoration we do it by analogy with wooden veranda. Exterior decoration is at your discretion. You can simply carefully unstitch the seams and call it a day.

Masonry size	Length, L	Width, V	Height, N	Number of bricks excluding thickness mortar joint, pcs.	Number of bricks taking into account thickness mortar joint 10 mm, pcs.
1 m3 single brick masonry	250	120	65	512	394
1 m3 thickened brick masonry	250	120	88	378	302
	250	120	65	61	51
1 sq. m of masonry in half a brick (masonry thickness 120 mm)	250	120	88	45	39
1 sq. m of masonry in one brick (masonry thickness 250 mm)	250	120	65	128	102
	250	120	65	189	153
1 sq. m of masonry of one and a half bricks (masonry thickness 380 mm)	250	120	88	140	117
	250	120	65	256	204
1 sq. m of masonry in two bricks (masonry thickness 510 mm)	250	120	88	190	156
	250	250	65	317	255
1 sq. m of masonry in two and a half bricks (masonry thickness 640 mm)	250	250	88	235	195

Prices for construction and facing bricks

Construction and facing bricks

Making a veranda roof

And the rafters are installed. All that remains is to make the sheathing, install the insulating layers and lay the finishing roofing material.

The lathing can be solid (for rolled materials) and sparse (for sheet roofing). We make a continuous sheathing from OSB boards. To do this, we attach them to the rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. We fasten the sparse sheathing beams at a pitch recommended by the manufacturer of the selected roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. To attach the sheathing to the rafters, we use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We fill the cells between the sheathing beams mineral wool for thermal insulation. We lay a waterproofing film on top and attach it to the sheathing using a stapler with staples. In the case of arranging a continuous sheathing, we fix the thermal insulation from the inside of the room. We secure the insulation boards using transverse slats, nailing them to the sheathing.

Finally, all that remains is to mount. It is better that it matches the roof covering of the main house. For the rest, we focus on our preferences and available budget.

Finishing the floor

If the subfloor is wooden, we lay insulation in the space between them and fill the flooring from edged boards to the joists. We paint and varnish the boards.

On top concrete screed You can also arrange a boardwalk, similar to the previous method, or lay other material at your discretion, for example, linoleum.

Finally, all that remains is the doors, furnishing at your discretion and connecting lighting if necessary. We won't pull the wiring. It is enough to remove the extension cord from the house and turn on the necessary lighting fixtures.

Good luck!