How to treat white coating on orchid leaves. Orchid diseases: description and control measures

Proper care of plants is the key to their long and flourishing life. But almost every fan encounters a number of orchid diseases, after which the plant begins to slowly die. Let's look at the main diseases of the phalaenopsis orchid, as well as methods of treating them.

What do phalaenopsis suffer from?

It is worth mentioning right away that phalaenopsis orchids have almost all the same diseases as other plants, ranging from indoor, decorative and ending with garden plants. However, the course of the disease can be almost imperceptible in some species, while in others it can cause serious damage from the very first days of infection.

Most ailments of orchids are associated with errors in care, because at home it is not always possible to provide all the factors that were present in the nursery. It is believed that varietal phalaenopsis can get sick more often; they are not recommended for beginners precisely because of their low adaptability to the conditions of an average apartment. Therefore, when purchasing a variety, many owners are faced with diseases and plant death.

Another cause of illness is viral diseases. For a long time it was believed that treatment of such diseases was impossible. But recent developments prove the opposite: infections caused, for example, by Orchid fleck virus, can be cured in the laboratory, which gives us optimism.

So, what will orchid lovers have to contend with? Let's look at the most common diseases of phalaenopsis.

Bacterial leaf spot

Phalaenopsis diseases can be associated with improper care; these usually include bacterial infections. They can appear on the roots, on the leaves, on the peduncle or on the trunk of the plant.

Symptoms and causes

Bacterial spotting is expressed in the following symptoms:

The plant develops dark, moist spots that increase in size when pressed.
The spots may be dry with clearly defined yellow edges.

Bacteriosis can be associated with a number of pathogens that arise as a result of high humidity and elevated temperatures from +28-32 degrees C.

There is an opinion that the culprit for the rapid spread of this infection is the lack of ventilation, but this is another myth: with active air movement, the emerging bacterium infects plants at an even greater rate. Moreover, even at moderate temperatures and normal watering, this disease is quite likely, but its course will be more measured, and therefore, the owner of the orchid will have a slight head start in time.

Quite often, beginners confuse bacteriosis with fusarium, since the latter also causes spots to appear, but their color is different. Firstly, with fusarium, the leaves turn red, becoming covered with darkish spots, and these manifestations have nothing to do with the crimson pigment in orchids, which appears in good lighting.

Of course, if the leaves of an orchid dry out, then you should understand the reasons and, of course, be sure to treat them.

Treatment

Treatment of bacterial diseases is quite rapid. The most important thing here is not to miss the moment when the plant becomes infected and take action in time. Quite often experienced flower growers they notice that during a rapid acute period, after a few days the process slows down and the growth of spots stops.

What should you do first?

We isolate the diseased plant from the rest.
We remove the affected areas with a sterile and sharp instrument.
The wounds should be treated with iodine or brilliant green, since activated carbon powder or cinnamon may be useless in this case.

If, after removing the spots, new foci of infection do not appear within 10 days, the phalaenopsis can be returned to its usual environment. If the disease continues to progress, then bactericidal drugs or antibiotics should be used. Also, similar treatment is used for damage to the leaf vein.

Typically, the following drugs are used:

metronidazole;
streptomycin;
tetracycline tablets.

These drugs can be purchased at your nearest pharmacy. We use them this way:

Dissolve 1 tablet in 100 grams of boiled, but not hot water.
Wipe all the leaves with the solution.

Avoid contact of antibacterial drugs with the root system of phalaenopsis, as they cause them to dry out.

To prevent bacterial rot, you should follow the rules of watering, and also use distilled water instead of rain or melted snow.

Powdery mildew

Unlike mealybug, which creates a white, dense web on the leaves, mildew manifests itself differently:

The upper side of the leaves is affected by a white coating that can be easily removed.
The underside is darker, yellowish or brown.

Cause of the disease and effect on plants

Diseases of orchids on leaves such as powdery mildew are caused by pathogenic fungi. In this case we are talking about a fungus of the mealy mildew family - Erysiphei or Podosphaera. Not only phalaenopsis, but also many other plant species are susceptible to diseases.

A warm and humid environment promotes their development. As the infection spreads, it practically blocks the process of photosynthesis, slows down the development of plants and reduces their immunity to other infections. Quite often, along with powdery mildew, fusarium also appears - an infectious disease in which phalaenopsis leaves turn red and other symptoms appear in the form of loss of turgor and general weakness of the plant.

The disease can occur in various forms, among which the most severe one is not uncommon - perforated, causing tissue deformation and perforation of the tops.

Treatment

In the success of treatment powdery mildew the determining factor is how quickly you take action.

The first thing to do is to move the phalaenopsis into quarantine.
Remove all white coating on the plant.

The following drugs are used for treatment:

colloidal sulfur solution;
Speed;
Topsin-M.

Many orchid owners mistakenly use Fitosporin, but this drug is effective only for prevention; it is useless for treatment.

Sooty mushrooms

The black coating blocks the process of photosynthesis because the plant stops getting access to light. Without treatment, phalaenopsis will die.

Rot refers to diseases of orchids caused by improper care. In most cases, it is provoked by excessive watering, spraying, hypothermia and manifests itself mainly on the roots.

Treatment for rot is both simple and complex. The simplicity lies in the fact that most of the drugs are quite effective, but the difficulty is rather in the recovery period: after treating the disease, it is quite difficult to make phalaenopsis bloom.

To eliminate rot, use a sterile, sharp instrument to trim all affected areas of roots or leaves to healthy tissue. After such manipulations, the plant is dried and after 2-3 days it is treated with fungicides.

Treatment of root rot is effective with the following drugs:

0.1% Benlat solution;
0.2% solution of Fundazol;
0.2% Topsin-M solution.

The procedure is carried out 3 times with a break of 14 days.

Quite often, as a result of water entering the growing point, rot begins to spread inside the plant. The first signs may be the appearance of black spots on the neck of the phalaenopsis, as well as yellowing of the leaves from the growing point. The scheme of action in this case is the same, but it is worth remembering that if there is not enough leaves, the plant may not survive.

Bottom line

To summarize, we note that phalaenopsis orchids tolerate treatment quite well. The only infections that cannot be controlled today are viruses. Unfortunately, it is impossible to cure most of them at home, but flower lovers have hopes that a cure will appear in the near future.

What orchid diseases have you encountered? How did you treat your orchids? Share in the comments!

Orchid diseases are of great concern to collectors of these beautiful indoor plants. If an orchid is sick, the first thing to do is isolate it from the rest and immediately begin diagnosis and treatment. Smart advice comes to the rescue. We will show you orchid diseases in the photo and tell you how to deal with them.

Read in this article:

A Quick Guide to Orchid Diseases and Their Treatment

If your collection of orchids is valuable and important to you, then the first thing you should take care of is to isolate it from access various pests and diseases. And they may appear:

from a new indoor plant brought into the house;
a bouquet of flowers located nearby;
poor-quality contaminated substrate during transplantation;
inappropriate water for irrigation;
with overfertilization and lack of fertilizers;
from storing nearby contaminated (and this is not always visible) fruits and vegetables:
damp cold air and mold;
draft, etc., etc., etc....

So who will say after this that an orchid is an unpretentious houseplant, as many gardeners say.

Signs of orchid diseases associated with flowering

Of course, we grow orchids for long-lasting, lush and unusually beautiful flowering. But what to do if problems arise with flowering.

Flowers wither and fall.

Reasons: lack of lighting, too hot, dry air, draft, low temperature air, temperature changes.

Dark spots and dots on flowers.

Reasons: rot, poor ventilation, dampness at low air temperatures.

Lack of flowering.

Reasons: broken temperature regime.

Diseases and pests of leaves and peduncles

Green plaque

Reasons: colonies of microscopic algae have settled, constant high humidity. Most often the disease appears in greenhouses, winter gardens, greenhouses.

Struggle. Removing plaque from leaves with a piece soft fabric(gauze), moistened with oxen, at home - with laundry soap or a weak solution of potassium permanganate and subsequent bathing.

Cracks, most often along the midrib.

Causes: mechanical damage as a result of transportation or movement.

The base of the leaf (most often the apical one) turns yellow, the leaf withers and falls off.

Causes: Fusarium disease, or otherwise Fusarium wilt, appears when there is excessive waterlogging, watering at relatively low temperatures.

Remedy: Remove the affected leaf or peduncle to a healthy location. Pruning is carried out with a sterile instrument. Reduce watering and treat the cut area with Fundazol.

Dark sunken spots (black, brown)

Causes: bacterial rot.

Elimination. Trim leaves to healthy tissue, making each cut with a sterilized blade. Treat the sections with one of the fungicides (Maxim, Fundazol, Topaz).

Brown spots with a yellowish or whitish rim

Causes: bacterial spotting.

Treatment. The orchid must be isolated from the rest, cut off the affected tissue or entire leaves, treat the sections with antibacterial drugs (sulfur powder, activated carbon, wood ash, potassium permanganate - solution). Watering is moderate.

Dark streaks on the leaves quickly merge into stripes.

Cause: virus.

Elimination: immediate isolation and destruction of the plant. Viruses multiply very quickly and can affect all orchids.

White spots.

Cause: – sunburn.

Remedy: early spring and in summer shade the plants, do not spray under direct sun rays, water droplets become small lenses.

Wilting of leaves.

Reasons: rotting of the root system.

Elimination. Carefully remove the orchid from the pot and inspect the roots. Remove soft and blackened ones and treat the sections with antifungal drugs.

Uneven coloring, deformation of the sheet.

Reasons: lack of mineral nutrition.

Remedy: regular feeding complex fertilizers for orchids.

Diseases of the root system of orchids, treatment

Causes: fracture, mechanical damage.

Remedy: cut a little above the fracture, sprinkle with activated carbon powder. If the roots do not have visible damage, but dry out, it is likely due to insufficient watering and low air humidity. Watering and humidifying the air with a humidifier will help.

Drying of roots in the substrate

Reasons: insufficient watering.

Elimination. Place the pot for 30 minutes in a container with warm water, take it out and let it drain. Healthy roots are clearly visible in a transparent pot; they are saturated with moisture and have a greenish tint.

Root rotting

Causes: excessive watering. At first the roots become covered with spots, then become wrinkled, soft, brown.

Remedy: removal of damaged roots, disinfection of cuts with solutions of fungicides diluted by a third with water (relative to the norm), replanting into a fresh substrate. Watering is weak, the substrate dries out completely between waterings.

Orchid pests - description and control

Aphids and thrips

Description. Very small leaf-sucking insects. Aphids settle in colonies and resemble small droplets in appearance. The color is greenish, yellowish or black. Adult Thrips are very small flies, have wings, an elongated body, black or yellow, the larvae are whitish or transparent.

Insects attack young tender parts of orchids: buds, flowers, growing shoots.

When affected by aphids and thrips, the flowers fall off, silvery stripes and spots are visible on the leaves, and the surface becomes bumpy due to dead cells.

Struggle. Removing severely affected parts of orchids, spraying with insecticide Aktara, washing with laundry soap.

Repeat the treatment procedure 2 more times with an interval of 5 days to destroy the larvae hatched from the eggs.

Mealybug

Description. Small insects that resemble pieces of cotton wool. It feeds on the juice of leaves. Usually introduced with new plants. In case of defeat mealybug the leaves turn yellow and wither.

Struggle. Mechanical removal with a cotton swab dipped in vodka or alcohol. Subsequent treatment with Aktara 2 times with an interval of 10 days.

Snails and slugs

Description. Orchids kept in greenhouses, greenhouses and winter gardens are susceptible to attack. It may also appear on the windowsill. the source of infection is a poor-quality substrate.

The mollusks hide in the substrate, where they eat the roots. Crawling out, they gnaw leaves, young shoots and flowers. Signs of obvious presence of snails are bitten edges of leaves and round holes in the ground.

Control measures. Collection and destruction.

Scale insects and false scale insects.

Description. Pests look like small, hard growths on stems and leaves. Easily removed. Color brown or black. They leave sticky marks after their stay.

Control measures. Mechanical removal with a cotton swab dipped in vodka or alcohol. Then wipe the plant with a soapy pad, leave for 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Treatment with Aktara - 2 times with an interval of 7 days - will not hurt either.

Prevention measures - increase humidity.

Description. A very small insect of a reddish color, difficult to see with the naked eye. Moves slowly. Attacks orchids in low humidity. It is detected when there are thin cobwebs on the plant. The leaves become covered with a silvery coating and die.

Struggle. Rinsing with warm water, treatment with acaricides, e.g. Aktelik.

Prevention. Quarantine new plants, eliminate drafts blown by the wind, spray with warm water.

Phalaenopsis is the most popular orchid hybrid. He is distinguished by his capriciousness, subject to negative influence many diseases, susceptible to pests.

Therefore, in addition to proper care for it, you need to know how to deal with pests and “sores”. Let's look at these questions in more detail.

Diseases of Phalaenopsis orchids

This orchid can have a lot of diseases. We will list only the main ones and find out how they manifest themselves.

Powdery mildew

Refers to fungal infections. Manifests itself in the form of plaque on leaf plates. It may be white or purple in color. Appearance the flower changes as if it had been sprinkled with white powder.

The disease is very insidious and can completely kill the plant. The main reason for its manifestation is the increased temperature and humidity in the room, which provokes the “steaming” of the flower.

For prevention purposes, it is necessary to systematically spray the flower with Fitosporin. If the flower is already sick, then it is necessary to use Skor spray, or mixtures based on colloidal sulfur.

spotting

It is also bacterial in nature. Its main symptoms are a change in the color of the leaves to darker, sometimes yellow. Ulcers appear on them, which constantly secrete fluid. The leaves may also lose their elasticity and fall off.

Treatment for this disease consists of removing the diseased leaf or treating the ulcer with iodine solutions.

Anthracnose

A very common disease. It usually appears on leaf blades. First, small round spots form on them, which gradually begin to turn black. After some time, a yellow coating appears on these spots.

The cause of the disease is high humidity air, as well as accumulation of liquid in the leaf plates.

Rust

Fungal infection. Affects leaves. The most “sensitive” to this disease are weak and young flowers. Rust begins to “act” from the inside of the leaf and gradually moves outward in the form of red spots. The infection is caused by a fungus.

Methods to combat rust are quite simple - all affected leaves need to be treated with alcohol and then sprayed with products such as Skor, Mikasan or Ritomil.

Fusarium, root, gray and brown rot

Gray rot- a frequent “companion” of Phalaenopsis. This disease manifests itself in the form of gray spots on the leaves, which can have a wide variety of shapes. The spots on top are fluffy. The main reasons for the appearance of such rot are the same high air humidity.

Almost any rot can be combated by systematically spraying the plant with Kendal. It acts in such a way that it protects the plant from diseases for a long time and successfully copes with rot.

Root rot appears on flowers that are already susceptible to the negative influence of various fungi and bacteria. To get rid of the problem, you need to treat the affected leaf with colloidal sulfur.

Another common disease of Phalaenopsis is fusarium rot. The leaf blades begin to turn yellow and curl. The color of such rot has a gray tint. It is necessary to treat with a 0.3% solution of Fundazol.

Brown rot appears as bright brown “rashes” on the leaves. You can fight it using the same methods as in previous cases.

Sooty mushrooms

They can affect young and weak flowers that are located in poorly ventilated areas with high air humidity. But, main reason, through which the fungus arises - pests (aphids, whiteflies, etc.).

Sooty fungi clog the pores of the plant and disrupt metabolic processes in its system. If this infection spreads to the entire “organism” of the flower, it can lead to its death.

Treatment of diseases of Phalaenopsis orchids

The main cause of Phalaenopsis diseases is high air humidity and improper care. And, if you notice the manifestations of any “sores,” then most likely the plant will die (if measures are not taken).

What to do in case of flower disease:

These measures will be quite enough to cure the flower.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests

Let's now figure out what pests Phalaenopsis has and how to deal with them.

Aphid

Aphids can be: gray, green, black and yellow. “Settles” on thin sprouts and peduncles. It can get on the plant while still in the store, or fly in through a window. He builds his “farm” on a flower.

Aphids can eat the roots of Phalaenopsis, which subsequently leads to the complete death of the plant. You can get rid of the pest using fungicides.

Whiteflies

Outwardly they look like white fluffy butterflies. They eat the stems, flowers and leaves of the plant, causing it to turn yellow. Plants with thick and dense leaves are not affected.

Whiteflies lay yellow larvae, which can be located both on the leaves of the flower and under them, less often on the stems.

Thrips

Small pests 2-5 mm. in length, they look like oblong “sticks” that have 2 pairs of wings and move very quickly. Thrips, as soon as they sit on a plant, immediately try to hide in it, therefore, they can only be identified at night, and only with the help of a flashlight.

They manifest themselves as small black dots on leaves and can create certain “roots” that look like various tangles. These insects lay eggs in the leaf tissue, making them very difficult to get rid of.

Shields

Measuring 1-2 mm, scale insects tightly cover the leaves of the flower and remain there for long term, up to several months. Females have neither legs nor wings, and when they eat the plant they secrete a viscous liquid.

Most often, scale insects settle on a plant in whole groups, and if you remove the pest from a leaf, it will leave a kind of wound on it, which must be sprinkled with charcoal or cinnamon.

Ticks

You can “meet” several types of mites on an orchid. The most difficult thing is to determine whether the color was infected at home or in the store. The main pests of this family are practically no different from each other, but the symptoms of their “presence” are the same, and appear in the form of white dots on the leaves.

The result is that the flowers of the plant begin to curl, fall off, and a cobweb becomes noticeable on them. The ticks themselves can be yellow or red, and their larvae can be greenish and almost invisible.

Most often you can find on Phalaenopsis: common mite, false spider mite and flat mite. The bodies of all these types are divided into 3 parts: middle, posterior and anterior.

There is also a root mite, which eats the roots of the flower. It penetrates inside the plant, making hollow threads from the roots. As a result, the plant dies completely. The color of this tick is yellow or white, the shape is oval.

The oribatid mite resembles a pea and eats plant organic matter. You can find it on leaf blades, bulbs and on the walls near the flower. Lays larvae gray, you can find it on the plant without any problems.

Mealybug

Reminds me of a light fluffy ball. If you look closely, you will notice that it has antennae and a ribbed body, adapted for rapid movement around the plant.

Mealybug is the most dangerous for a plant, since its presence at the initial stages is practically not manifested in any way. And when the leaves begin to turn yellow, then, most likely, the plant cannot be saved.

This pest is carried along with dust, wind, etc. It often climbs onto Phalaenopsis from another infected plant. Also, it can be in the soil where the flower is planted.

As the pests develop and colonize, they begin to lay eggs in prominent places on the flower, but always in the shade. At first, the young individuals will stick together, and then they will begin to spread out and look for new places to “settle.”

Phalaenopsis orchid pest control methods

After purchasing a flower, you should not immediately place it on the windowsill. Especially near other flowers or plants, since they may already have pests, or they are already “sick.”

What are the causes of flowering problems?

Phalaenopsis is most often purchased precisely because of its simple amazing flowering. But, poor lighting and insufficient ventilation of the room can lead to the flowers becoming sluggish.

If spots of any color appear on the sheets, this may also indicate a stuffy room or too low a temperature. If there is no color at all, the reason lies in the wrong temperature.

There may be no color due to diseases of the peduncles. The most common of them:

Green plaque. The reason is increased humidity, the formation of algae. Such plaque must be removed with gauze soaked in water, or potassium permanganate, or soap solution;
Cracks. Occur due to inaccurate movement of the flower;
Yellowing and wilting of leaves. Reasons: improper watering, too frequent treatment of the flower with Fundazol;
Bacterial rot. Removed complete removal affected leaf blades. Fungicides can be used;
Viral activity. Appears as dark spots, stripes and strokes. Such a plant must be destroyed;
Sunburn. They are “treated” by moving the flower to a darker place, and all wilted flowers are removed.

Prevention and care at home

Make sure that there are no spots or any other “pathologies” on the leaves and flowers;
Protect the plant from mechanical damage, shaking, etc.;
If the stem or flower is broken, the cut site must be disinfected;
Do not allow the soil to become too wet or dry;
It is important to provide Phalaenopsis correct lighting and temperature conditions;
Systematically treat the plant with special fertilizers.

Even with careful care indoor flowers, they may get sick. Phalaenopsis orchids are no exception. They often get sick, as it seems to us, with fairly careful care on our part. But that's not true. Only violations of the rules for growing beautiful orchids lead to disastrous results. We will analyze diseases that are common in the Phalaenopsis orchid and their causes, and also tell you about treatment methods.

Why do the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid turn yellow and what to do?

if Phalaenopsis stands on a sunny windowsill, its leaves may get sunburned;
if a flower stands in the back of the room, away from sunlight, its leaves will stretch out, become sluggish, and lose turgor. Therefore, it is important to guess where the flower is most comfortable and organize a place of residence for Phalaenopsis there.
if you do not protect it from drafts when ventilating the room;
if the pot is in the way of air flow from the air conditioner;
if you support it long time at low temperatures;
if you over-moisten the substrate, the roots may not have enough oxygen and they begin to rot. Leaves turn yellow and fall off;
sometimes, with frequent heavy watering, brown spots soaked in water appear on the leaves, stems or flowers. Over time, they increase in size and merge into large spots. During humid, warm weather, pink, gelatinous masses of spores appear in the centers of these lesions. This - characteristic features a disease called Anthracnose. Treatment begins with removing diseased areas from the plant, then treating the sections with crushed coal or iodine. To be more sure, process biological drug Mikosan or copper-based fungicide;
with bacterial or fungal infections, spots appear on the leaves different colors, sometimes, getting wet. Bacterial leaf spot is especially dangerous. It is necessary to prune all affected areas of the plant. Treat the sections with crushed activated carbon or iodine. If no new spots appear within 10 to 14 days, the treatment can be considered successful. If there is the slightest doubt, treat the orchid with Mikosan and the substrate with a 0.2% solution of Previkur.

Diseases of Phalaenopsis orchids

Let's look at some diseases and the causes of their occurrence.

Fusarium

If you use soil that is not suitable for orchids as a substrate, if you often over-moisten this substrate, if the roots are constantly in heavy and not drying soil and do not receive enough oxygen and sunlight, then your flower may become infected with a fungal disease called Fusarium.This is a very dangerous disease that has no cure. The plant will have to be destroyed along with the pot.
Root rot
Phalaenopsis roots have rotted, what should I do? In a humid and warm environment with frequent and abundant watering, it rots. root system Phalaenopsis. They also suffer lower leaves plants. This disease is called Root Rot. The rosette of leaves turns creamy yellow and other parts turn brown. Sometimes porcini mushrooms can be found on the stems, pseudobulbs and leaves. If the disease is detected early, cut out the affected areas with a sterile instrument and treat the wounds with a fungicide. To prevent recurrence of the disease, after treatment, move the Phalaenopsis to a cooler, dry place for a while. If you missed the onset of the disease, and the disease has spread widely throughout the flower, then the chances of saving it are slim.
Hives
If there is musty air in the room with the flower, if you rarely ventilate it, then there is a danger of a viral infection called Urticaria.
Sometimes it appears on the leaves of Phalaenopsis brown spot. If it is not a sunburn and your orchid is not exposed to the sun, then it may be a dangerous bacterial disease. It first appears as a small blister spot on the leaf, which gradually turns brown and forms a bacterial fluid. Once you locate the stain, use a sterile, sharp instrument to cut it out. Treat the damaged area with cinnamon or crushed charcoal. If you do not detect this disease in time, it will spread to the entire crown and the plant will die.
Black rot
Sometimes, when too high humidity and the temperature of the content, individual parts of Phalaenopsis become black as coal. The disease begins with the leaves, then the shoots and roots turn black. The disease is called Black Rot. Remove affected areas, then treat the plant, especially cuttings, with a suitable fungicide.
Other viral infections can affect Phalaenopsis if it is not properly cared for, for example, Cymbidium mosaic and Odontoglossum virus. They are very similar, but they are different diseases of orchids. The first appears on the orchid flower in the form of stripes or spots on the petals, and the second affects the leaves. They become stained, discolored and deformed. If your sick Phalaenopsis has similar symptoms, we advise you to get rid of it along with the pot as soon as possible so that the infection does not spread to other flowers, since these viral diseases are incurable.
In a too humid room, when after spraying or watering moisture remains in the axils of the leaves and on the petals of the flowers, small black or light brown spots appear on the buds and flowers. It's evolving fungal disease- Botrytis. If left untreated, the buds will wither and fall off over time. It is necessary to carefully cut off the affected flower with a sterile instrument and treat the cut with a fungicide. To prevent the spread of the disease, remove all wilted flowers from the plant promptly. And carefully spray the blooming butterfly orchid. Drops of water remaining on flowers contribute to the appearance and spread of Botrytis disease.
Gray rot
If small watery spots appear on the buds and flowers, which then turn into dead brown areas, your Orchid has become infected with the disease Gray Mold. At the same time as the flowers, the leaves of Phalaenopsis also suffer. Gray spots appear on them with an ashen coating inside them. This plaque can be easily wiped off with your finger. The cause of the development of Gray rot can be any of the following:

improper watering and spraying of Phalaenopsis during flowering;
lack of lighting;
room temperature is too low;
ambient air humidity is too high;
lack of ventilation;
high concentration of fertilizers in the substrate, especially its nitrogen part;
water unsuitable for watering orchids.

Healthy and strong plants are never affected by gray rot.

If you suspect a Phalaenopsis disease, isolate the flower from other plants. Remove affected areas of the plant. Treat the flower with some fungicide. Correct any errors in its content.

Pests of Phalaenopsis orchids

Most often, Phalaenopsis is attacked by insect pests such as thrips, spider mites, scale insects, . They feed on plant sap, disrupting the process of photosynthesis in the tissues of the flower. The stems wither, the buds and leaves of Phalaenopsis wither and fall off.

Thrips on Phalaenopsis leaves

Scale insect on Phalaenopsis

But, unfortunately, there is no escape from them. The diseased plant must be destroyed.

If light brown and watery spots appear on the shoots and young leaves of the orchid, most likely the plant has contracted brown rot. Over time, the spots may begin to darken, increase in size and join together. Most often, this disease affects young leaves.

The process of destruction is especially accelerated by abundant watering and low air temperature in the place where the orchid is kept.

How to treat?

If damage is minimal, the orchid can still be helped. To do this, you need to cut out the affected areas using a sharp instrument to remove healthy tissue. Next, the cut areas should be sprinkled with crushed coal and treated with a copper-containing preparation. After the “surgery,” the orchid should be kept in the conditions indicated for the specific species.
If the damage is too severe, then it is almost impossible to cure an orchid that has become infected with brown rot. No matter how pathetic the plant is, it is best to destroy it before the diseased flower infects healthy plants.

Prevention. To prevent brown rot, you can spray the orchid copper sulfate 1 time per month.

Which orchids get sick more often? The plants most susceptible to root rot are phalaenopsis, cattleya, cymbidium and paphiopedilum.

This disease occurs most often due to too low a temperature. Orchids are heat-loving plants, and if they are left in the cold for a long time, they can develop black rot. The disease can also appear on plants that have been weakened as a result of attack by pests or due to existing other diseases.

How to treat?

The affected areas should be removed to healthy tissue with a sterile knife (or scissors), and the affected areas should be treated charcoal or Bordeaux mixture. After this, the substrate in which the orchid grows must be disposed of, and the pot must be sterilized. When the plant is replanted, it should create conditions favorable for successful restoration.
It is almost impossible to cure an orchid, most of which is affected by black rot - all that remains is to get rid of the plant as soon as possible. But you can save the neighboring orchids in the collection and other house plants. In the case of black rot, this can be considered great luck. To do this, treat the flowers closest to the diseased orchid with Bordeaux mixture or some other copper-containing preparation.

Prevention. The best prevention of many fungal diseases, which include black rot, is to follow all the rules for caring for an orchid.

Which orchids get sick more often? Fungal rot, which is the cause of the disease, most often affects orchid genera such as Paphiopedilum and Cattleya.

If an orchid is affected by root rot, the leaves of the flower begin to turn brown, and the roots rot and become soft. Too much high temperature and high air humidity are often the main factors accelerating the development of the disease.

How to treat? It starts with creating favorable conditions orchid maintenance, since the disease occurs most often due to violations in care. If an orchid is found to be damaged by root rot, it is necessary to treat the roots and substrate of the plant with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol or a 0.2% solution of Topsin. To achieve a positive effect, it is advisable to carry out the procedure 3 times with an interval of 10-14 days. The easiest way to carry out the treatment is by immersing the pot in the solution.

Prevention. When planting an orchid, you should use high-quality disinfected soil - this will be the best prevention of root rot.

Which orchids get sick more often? Cymbidium, Miltonia, and Paphiopedilum are more susceptible to root rot than other orchids.

Fusarium rot

This disease also refers to rot and is manifested by yellowing of leaves and the appearance of spots on them. The disease also affects young shoots. The easiest way to identify fusarium is by the leaf blades, which become soft, curl and may become covered with a pinkish coating (fungal spores). If this happens to your orchid, the prognosis is disappointing. The cause of the disease is most often the lack of air circulation in the room and high humidity.

How to treat?

To rid an orchid of fusarium, you need to treat it for 10 days in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol, immersing a pot with a plant in it 3 times a day. It is also worthwhile to completely stop spraying for a while, so as not to provoke the rapid development of the disease. It is also recommended to ventilate the room more often, while avoiding drafts.

Prevention. Best protection orchids against fusarium - compliance with all necessary rules care

Which orchids get sick more often? Orchids such as phalaenopsis, miltonia, and epidendrum most often suffer from fusarium rot.

The presence of gray rot on an orchid is not difficult to determine: it is characterized by dark islands covered with a gray fluffy coating, which can be seen first on the leaves, then on the soil and ultimately on the flowers of the plant. Brown specks on flowers will also indicate the presence of this disease. Gray rot is another disease resulting from improper care for the orchid. The reasons for its occurrence are still the same - low temperature in combination with high air humidity. However, excessive application of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content can also cause damage to an orchid by gray rot. A high concentration of this element often leads to plants becoming less resistant to this disease.

How to treat?

If the orchid is severely damaged, the damaged areas should be removed and then the plant should be sprayed with fungicides. It is worth noting that, if the same orchid is again affected by gray rot, the same drug cannot be used. Fungal spores very quickly develop immunity against fungicidal drugs.

Prevention. When watering orchids you can use special drugs, increasing its resistance to diseases. Then the appearance of gray rot can be avoided. So oh proper care Orchids should not be forgotten.

When placing orchids in a home flower garden, you should not place them close to each other. If one of the plants gets sick with gray rot, the disease can very quickly spread to neighboring plants.

Which orchids get sick more often? Phalaenopsis, cymbidiums and cattleyas, which bloom with white flowers, are susceptible to gray rot.

This disease is quite dangerous. It refers to infectious diseases, the development of which is promoted too bright lighting in spring and summer, improper watering and excessive fertilization. Leaf spotting can be determined by dark, wet spots that appear on weakened orchid leaves.

How to treat? To save the orchid, you will have to remove all the affected leaves from the plant, and then spray the flower with a fungicidal preparation and do not water it for the next 4-5 days.

Which orchids get sick more often? This disease most often affects phalaenopsis.

This disease most often appears on leaves and sometimes on pseudobulbs. Signs of anthracnose are small and round but distinct brown spots that may enlarge and coalesce over time. Large areas gradually become black and form dents. At a completely advanced stage, a yellowish or pinkish coating may appear on the spots. Most often, an orchid is affected by anthracnose due to too high air humidity, as well as stagnation of water in the axils of the leaves or in the core of the pseudobulbs. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus.

How to treat? Areas affected by anthracnose should be cut off from the orchid and burned. The cut areas should be treated with activated carbon or ash. Copper-containing preparations will help cure the orchid. They need to treat the flower 3 times, taking a break of 10 days between each procedure. After this, you should reduce watering and stop feeding the plant.

Prevention. To prevent anthracnose from appearing on the orchid, it must be kept at an air humidity of 40 to 70%. In addition, it is recommended to periodically ventilate the room with the flower so that the air does not stagnate, but circulates well. In addition, after watering, water must be removed from the leaf axils and cores of the pseudobulbs using a cloth or napkin.

How to treat? Powdery mildew must be combated as soon as its signs are detected on the plant. This will allow you to cure the orchid without significant losses. A solution of colloidal sulfur helps well against powdery mildew. You can also cope with the disease with the help of drugs Skor or Topsin-M.

Prevention. In order to prevent powdery mildew, the orchid should be sprayed with Fitosporin (according to the instructions).

Which orchids get sick more often? All home orchids are equally susceptible to powdery mildew.

Viral diseases

You should be wary of viral diseases in the most last resort, since orchids are rarely affected by them. Most often they appear as mosaic spots on leaves and flowers. Also, with viral diseases on domestic tropicals, you can see characteristic spots in the form of circles, stripes or arrows.

How to treat? Unfortunately, it is not possible to cure an orchid affected by a viral disease. If you suspect something is wrong with an epiphytic pet, it should be urgently isolated from other plants. If the assumption is confirmed, you should get rid of the orchid.

Which orchids get sick more often? More often than other genera of orchids, cymbidiums can contract a viral disease,