Weigela: landing and care. Weigela shrub - an excellent decoration for a country garden How long does weigela bloom

In some species of weigela, it is possible to obtain seedlings from seeds. The fruits of the shrub appear at 3-4 years of age. Small winged weigela seeds are hidden in oblong boxes (2-3 cm long), opening on both sides. In winter-hardy species, seeds ripen at the end of October. Weigela profusely flowering, pleasant and Korean seeds rarely ripen. Sowing is best done immediately in the fall with freshly harvested seeds, while they have good germination. After 1-2 years, their germination will greatly decrease, up to 1-5%. Until the day of sowing, the seeds should be stored in a paper or linen bag. Sowing seeds is carried out in the spring without stratification, preferably in boxes or pots with fertile soil and sand (2: 1). Seeds are sown superficially, lightly sprinkled with fine sand and tightly pressed with glass from above. During the period of seed germination, the soil is regularly and carefully watered, so that the seeds do not end up on the surface of the substrate. Seedlings appear after 3 weeks.

For good growth and flowering of weigela bushes carry out systematic sanitary pruning, cut out broken, dry, diseased branches. If the tops of annual shoots are frozen, then after sanitary pruning, the weigel is restored and blooms in the same year, thanks to active young growth. Sanitary pruning is carried out in spring or early summer. Places of cuts should be lubricated with garden pitch. Immediately after flowering, weigela branches with wilted flowers are recommended to be shortened, and old unproductive branches to be cut to well-developed renewal shoots. The most favorable time for rejuvenating weigela pruning is the end of June. At proper care shrubs live over 30 years.

Care

All weigels are better suited for a mild climate, especially the southern regions of Russia. At the same time, Middendorf's weigels and the early ones safely endure climatic conditions in areas located north of Voronezh, up to Moscow and St. Petersburg. In this region, flowering and hybrid weigela varieties can freeze slightly in years with very severe and little snowy winters. Therefore, their varieties, as well as pleasant, Korean and abundantly flowering weigels, are desirable winter shelter, especially careful at a young age and after planting. Young plants are wrapped with modern covering material, spunbond, or thick kraft paper. The trunk circle of the bush is sprinkled with a layer of dry foliage, or a layer of coniferous spruce branches is laid. With such care, bushes rarely freeze, and if they suffer from cold weather, they recover within one or two seasons. With age, the frost resistance of weigela bushes increases markedly.

Already adult plants growing in the garden for more than 3-5 years will require much less attention. In winter, after a heavy snowfall, and especially in March, when the snow begins to melt, you should walk around the garden and shake off the snow from the branches. From breakage and deformation of the branches of the weigela, a wire or rack frame installed in the fall above the bush will help. It will strengthen the fragile skeleton of the bush and relieve the overwhelming load from the snow that becomes heavier by spring.

In some years, weigela bushes can varying degrees be damaged by pests and suffer from diseases that weaken the strength of shoot growth, reduce flowering intensity and winter hardiness. To combat fungal and bacterial diseases, Bordeaux liquid is used (a mixture of copper sulfate with milk of lime). For the prevention of diseases - rust, leaf spot and gray rot, a weakly toxic broad-spectrum drug - Topsin is used: in the period before bud break in the form of a 3% solution, and during the growing season - 1%.

Pesticides are used against pests (aphids, leaf beetles), many of which are toxic - DNOC, nitrafen, rogor (phosphamide), keltan (dicofol). Because the chemical method pest control poses a certain danger to environment, to protect plants, it is better to choose decoctions and infusions of insecticidal plants (wormwood, garlic, potato tops, hot peppers, etc.).

Photo: Rita Brilliantova, Maxim Minin

Do you want to decorate your garden? Plant a weigela, you won't regret it!

- decorative deciduous shrub, with rather large funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flowers, collected in loose inflorescences, belonging to the genus of shrubs of the Honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae).

Weigela flowers can be white, cream, purple, pink or carmine red, and the color of weigela flowers changes during flowering: at the very beginning of flowering, the opening weigela flowers have a lighter color, gradually the color becomes brighter and more saturated. Another advantage of weigela is that it blooms twice a year.

The first flowering of weigela begins at the very beginning of summer, from mid-May to mid-June, on last year's shoots, when weigela branches are simply strewn with flowers.

Weigela blooms again in August-September on the shoots of the current year. Of course, the second bloom is not as plentiful as in spring, but it adds its own color to the autumn colors of the garden, its palette to autumn flowering plants. After flowering, fruits are formed - bivalve boxes filled with small, slightly angular, sometimes winged, seeds.

Decorative weigela, unpretentiousness in cultivation and simple reproduction made this shrub popular among amateur gardeners. With the help of weigela, you can set a certain style for the garden, for example, poetic. Weigela plantings will add a little romance to the garden.

AT wild nature grows about 5-7 species, of which in Russia on Far East there are three types of weigel. On the basis of these species, 9 varieties of weigela were bred and introduced (relocated outside the natural distribution area and introduced into cultivation).

Growing weigela

Weigele, like many other perennials, it is advisable to pay a little more attention in the early years. It is necessary to choose the right place for planting, take into account its requirements for soil, moisture. With age, weigela care requirements are reduced.

The soil. Before planting, it should be noted that weigela is quite demanding on the composition of the soil, prefers to grow in loose, nutritious and permeable soil. On heavy and poor land, weigela will grow very slowly. She does not like strong waterlogging, therefore, from areas with long standing flood waters, spring flooding, or with a high level ground water better to refuse. If you have on the site acidic soil, then preliminarily in the fall, proizvodite the site.

Weigela planting dates. It is desirable to plant weigela in the spring. For landing on permanent place three-year-old seedlings are well suited in the garden. If you plant a weigela in the fall, then in the very first winter it may die. If you purchased weigela seedlings in the fall, then it is better to dig them in an inclined position, covering most of the crown with earth.

Weigela landing site. Under landing weigela better fit an elevated place, protected from the cold north and northeast winds. From strong gusts of cold wind, weigela flowers and buds can fall off. The place where you are going to plant the weigela should be well lit, since in the penumbra the flowering of the weigela will not be very plentiful, the flowering time is shifted, the seeds do not have time to ripen.

Planting weigela. The site must be dug up very well before planting. Lay drainage at the bottom of the landing hole. It can be broken red brick, expanded clay, gravel or a thick layer of sand (about 15 centimeters).

It is advisable to add 5-7 kilograms of rotted humus or compost from leaves, turf soil into the planting hole. If there is loam on the site, then add sand to the soil, which will allow water not to linger for a long time in the upper soil layer. Before planting, it is advisable to add 60-80 grams of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium salt to each planting hole. You can use other fertilizers, which contain phosphorus and potassium. Mix everything well.

Before planting, you can treat the roots of seedlings in a solution of a root formation stimulator, for example, Ribav-extra, Radipharm, Viva +. Then the survival rate of seedlings will be much higher.

If you have several weigela seedlings, then it is better to plant them at a distance of two meters from each other. Spread the roots very carefully, lightly compact the ground around the roots so that there are no air spaces near the roots. Water the weigela seedlings well. Once again, pay attention - the root neck of the seedlings should be at the level of the soil. After that, it is desirable to mulch the soil around the seedlings.

Further care will consist in moderate watering, especially if marco or there has not been rain for a long time. A thick layer of mulch can significantly reduce the time between waterings. Remove the weeds in time, they take away nutrients in cultivated seedlings.

Another important aspect when caring for weigela: watch the density of the soil. As soon as it has caked, compacted, immediately loosen it on the bayonet of a shovel, after which you can again put mulch from sawdust, chopped grass or bark. However, when loosening the topsoil, be careful not to damage root system weigels.

pruning. In the early years, only sanitary pruning of weigela is done. Remove only diseased, weak, frozen shoots during the winter.

Further, sanitary scraps better to spend in early spring when, after wintering, weak, diseased, heavily thickened and frozen shoots will be visible.

Formative pruning weigels are made in the middle of summer after flowering, while new shoots have not yet grown. If you hesitated and missed the time of trimming, then it is better not to do it. This is due to the fact that re-bloom Weigela will be on young shoots that have grown after flowering.

Conducted once every three years anti-aging pruning. All thickening branches are cut out, as well as branches older than three years. Such pruning stimulates the development of new young shoots, prevents the development of various diseases, the spores of which can persist in the old bark. You can even completely cut off all the shoots, weigela recovers well.

Preparing weigela for winter. In late October - early November, after all the leaves fall on the weigel, trunk circle sprinkle with earth, the height of the mound should be at least 15-20 centimeters. It is advisable to tie the branches of the weigela and bend them to the ground. If there is little snow in winter, then take care of sheltering weigela bushes with burlap, agrospan, roofing material.

Remember that weigela is still a heat-loving plant. AT middle lane Russia with cold winters is desirable to grow winter-hardy varieties weigels. But with age, the frost resistance of weigela increases markedly. And sometimes, even after severe damage by winter frosts, the weigela is completely restored and blooms in the same year.

Weigela top dressing. If all the recommended fertilizers were applied during planting, then in the next two years the weigela can not be fed.

Further first feeding weigela done in early spring: a complete mineral fertilizer is applied, in which there is nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, for example, ammophoska, diammophoska or other fertilizers. Spring application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers stimulates the growth of leaves and new shoots. You can apply fertilizer separately, for example, ammonium nitrate, phosphate or double superphosphate, potassium sulfate. When applying fertilizers, you must follow the instructions for the use of fertilizers and safety precautions.

The second top dressing of weigela- in late May - early June, when flower buds form, weigela prepares for flowering. At this time, simple or double superphosphate, potassium sulfate is added. Fertilizers are applied strictly according to the instructions. The introduction of nitrogenous fertilizers at this time is undesirable, since they can already provoke the development of rot, slow down the maturation of wood. But phosphate fertilizer applied before flowering will make the weigela bloom abundant and long, and potassium will strengthen the branches and prepare for winter.

The third dressing of weigela done in the fall, potash fertilizers are applied for digging, for example, kemira - autumn, potassium sulfate or potassium chloride, or you can use ordinary wood ash at the rate of 200 grams per 1 sq.m.

Diseases and pests of weigela

The main weigela pests are aphids, various leaf-eating caterpillars. Thrips and spider mites can pester only if strong heat is established during weigela flowering. But, basically, weigela already has time to bloom by the time hot and dry weather sets in.

Young weigela seedlings are sensitive to any root system. If weigela seedlings suddenly begin to turn yellow, wither, shoot growth stops for no apparent reason, then it is probably possible to carry out preventive treatment, for example, shed the soil with any available insecticide: karbofos solution, aktara or any other. May beetle larvae, bears can be brought into landing pit when making humus, compost. Therefore, very carefully inspect all the compost introduced into the hole. If a bear is found on the site, then when landing in a hole, apply insecticides against the bear, for example, medvedoks. This will help preserve the root system of weigela seedlings.

Sometimes damage to the root system of young weigela seedlings is severe and can no longer be restored.

Weigela is rarely affected by diseases, but with improper, thickened planting during hot and humid weather, various bacterial rots can develop, for example, gray rot or Fusarium, sometimes, if the plant is weakened, various spots on the leaves may appear. In cold rainy weather with a thickened landing lower leaves weigels can be affected by powdery mildew. To avoid this, follow the rules for planting weigela, thicken the plantings, leave a distance between the plants so that there is ventilation around the plants in hot and humid weather. Do not plant weigela in drafts, cold gusts of wind in wet weather contribute to the development powdery mildew. Periodically treat weigela seedlings with fungicides. They help to strengthen the protective functions of plants, significantly reduce the development of various bacterial diseases.

Weigela reproduction

Weigela seed propagation. Weigela is easily propagated by seeds. You can, of course, sow seeds in pots and boxes, creating greenhouse conditions. But this is so much rigmarole! The easiest way is to leave the crumbled seeds on the ground under the leaves. In the spring, most of them will germinate. Thin out the ascended weigela seedlings, leave a few of the strongest seedlings for growing. You can transplant them into a school next year, or leave them to grow under an adult bush for another two years. By this time they will become full-fledged seedlings. However, not everything is so smooth in weigela seed propagation. Seed-grown offspring do not retain parental original forms and may produce heterogeneous offspring. Therefore, weigela is better to propagate vegetatively.

Vegetative propagation of weigela: propagation by green shoots of the current year, semi-lignified cuttings, cut from last year's shoots, undergrowth from a stump. Young shoots of the current year are taken on green cuttings. It is better to immediately cut the leaves completely or 1/2 of the leaf plate. Prepared cuttings are processed in a solution of a root formation stimulator.

Green cuttings of weigela are planted at the end of June in a mixture of peat and sand. The top layer of soil (about three to four centimeters) should be sand. Weigela cuttings should not be buried too deep, it is enough to immerse to a depth of one centimeter, it is advisable to cover the rooted cuttings from above with a plastic film to create a greenhouse effect or plastic bottles. Watering and airing the cuttings should be daily. Weigela cuttings take root very quickly. The rooting rate of weigela cuttings is very high - above 90%.

Weigela, propagated by summer green cuttings, blooms for the first time at the age of two years. For better development of the seedling, it is better to cut off the first buds.

For breeding weigela last year's semi-lignified cuttings shoots of last year's growth are taken in early spring, before the start of sap flow and before the leaves bloom. It is also desirable to process the cuttings in a solution of a root formation stimulator. You can also plant cuttings in boxes or pots under a jar, or in open ground in partial shade, also under a jar or plastic bottle. When propagating weigela with semi-lignified cuttings, the survival rate of cuttings is somewhat lower than with green shoots. After about a month, if rooting was successful and a new shoot appeared, then pinch it in order to stimulate the development of side shoots.

Instead of shoots from the crown for propagation of weigela, you can use the young shoots from the stump. Rooting will be exactly the same as described above.

Among other things, weigela can be propagated by layering. In the same way, many breed garden plants, for example, currant, honeysuckle, gooseberry.

Examine the weigela bush. Surely there is a branch, tilted low to the ground. Inspect this branch, bend it to the ground, scratch the bark of the shoot at the point of contact with the ground, treat it with a root formation stimulator and sprinkle it with earth. Next year in the spring you will have a full-fledged weigela seedling. Cut off the shoot from the main bush, and feel free to transplant it to a permanent place.

Image copyright flickr.com: Lee Wright , Rhian , Peter Stevans, Rusty Clark, Esther Westerveld, normanack, Gail Frederick, quattrostagioni, peganum, crabchick, Leonora Enking F. D. Richard

Each of the ornamental plants that adorn our garden has some kind of "highlight" - feature. For example, flowering shrub weigela surprises us with repeated autumn flowering. This is especially nice, because in autumn the choice of flowering plants is not so diverse. Weigela, planting and caring for her will be the subject of our article. Since it cannot be attributed to simple plants (this shrub is quite finicky), we will examine in detail the intricacies of growing.

Weigela is a flowering deciduous shrub from the honeysuckle family. Grows in the wild in South-East Asia and in the Far East. The name was given in honor of the botanist Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel. Grows up to 2 meters. Blooms profusely in late spring, and the second time - in early autumn. The flowers are large (about 5 cm) tubular bells. They can be pink, white, cream, red in various shades. The leaves are also quite decorative, they are slightly velvety, dark green, but may also be purple or have a white border. After flowering, it forms a fruit-box with small seeds that remain viable for only one year.

There are 15 species of weigela, and about 200 species have been bred by breeders. hybrid varieties. However, only a few are particularly popular.

Weigela early (Weigela praecox)- differs in decorative gray-brown bark, beautiful smooth foliage with unusual light spots. It has large, pink flowers with a yellow center.

Weigela Middendorff (Weigela middendorffiana)- a one and a half meter shrub, which differs among weigels in relatively good frost resistance. The flowers are creamy beige with orange spots in the middle.

Weigela early
Weigel Middendorf (flowers)
Weigel Middendorf

Weigela blooming (Weigela florida)- tall (up to 3 m) shrub with unusual bright green leaves with a light border. The flowers are white-pink. Represented by varieties: "Purpurea Nana", "Monet", "Nana Variegata".

Weigela Korean (Weigela сoraeensis)- the highest type of weigel (up to 5 m), in our conditions it reaches only one and a half meters. The leaves are elliptical with a pointed tip. Large flowers gradually change color. They bloom pale pink and fade bright carmine.

Weigela blooming "Monet"
Weigela blooming "Spilled-Wine"
Weigela Korean

Weigela profusely flowering (Weigela floribunda)- is considered a fast-growing species, grows well after a slight freezing. It has beautifully curved branches with bright red- pink flowers.

Weigela Maksimovich (Weigela maximowiczii)- differs in pubescent leaves and white-yellow flowers. Flowering is not abundant.

Weigela hybrid (Weigela hybrida)- this species combines all the varieties that were obtained by crossing. The result is a relatively low shrub with a variety of colors of flowers and leaves. Their frost resistance has also been increased. Some of the hybrid varieties: Desboisii, Rosea, Marc Tellier, Eva Rathke, Pierre Duchartre, Styriaca, Nana variegata, Looymansii Aurea, Bristol Ruby, Naomi Campbell "Victoria", "Sunny Princess", "Tango", "Bristol Snowflake", "Candida".

Weigela profusely flowering
Weigela hybrid "Nana Variegata"

Landing features

Planting weigela is most often carried out in the spring, as it is a heat-loving plant. Over the summer, she will have time to take root in a new place, and the bushes planted in the fall may freeze out.

It is very important to choose the right landing site. It must be sunny and, most importantly, protected from wind and drafts. Weigela grows worse in the shade and flowering will be poor.

Planting soil should be fertile, but very loose. A suitable soil mixture consists of garden soil, river sand, turf and humus. You can add a little complex fertilizer.

We prepare a hole about half a meter long and wide. We make good drainage from expanded clay, crushed stone or crushed brick. Weigela does not like stagnant water, so a drainage layer of at least 15 cm is required. The distance between plants should be from one and a half to three meters (depending on the variety). When planting weigela, the root neck is located on the same level with the ground, but a slight (1-2 cm) deepening is allowed. After planting, the top layer should be mulched using sawdust, straw, dry foliage and needles.

reproduction

Weigela, like most plants, propagates by cuttings and seeds. Best rooted in summer cuttings. At the beginning of summer (after flowering), cuttings are prepared. For this, young green shoots about 15 cm long are used. For better rooting, it is recommended to put the cuttings in a solution of a drug that stimulates root formation for several hours. Then they are planted in a sand-peat mixture at an angle of 30 degrees, deepening a little (about 1 cm). After that, to create a greenhouse effect, the cuttings are covered with a transparent film. Every day they need to be aired and sprinkled with water. next spring young plants are already planted in open ground. And two years later you will be pleased with the first flowering.

For reproduction, you can also take last year's woody stalk. They are cut in the spring before the start of sap flow. They are also treated with a root stimulator. They can be planted both in a container and in open ground in partial shade. Be sure to cover with foil or PET bottles. After about 5 years, the first flowering occurs.

Propagated by weigela and seeds. But young plants in this case may differ in their external data from the parent. Seeds collected in autumn can be sown in a seedling container in early spring, being sure to cover it. plastic wrap. Do not forget about ventilation and watering. After the appearance of 3 leaves, the seedlings dive. And when the earth warms up well, and the young plants get a little stronger, they should be planted in open ground. Flowering occurs in the sixth year.

You can also propagate weigela by dividing the bush and layering. But these methods are less common.

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Subtleties of care

1. top dressing. Like any plant, weigela needs fertilizer. the first complex top dressing should be carried out in early spring, scattering it directly on the snow in the root circle. The second - in late spring before flowering.
2. Watering. Since weigela does not like stagnant water, moderate watering is needed. It is plentifully watered in the spring, if the winter was not snowy, as well as during top dressing, and in the summer - during the dry period.
3. loosening. After watering and removing weeds, be sure to loosen the soil around the bush. This will ensure the flow of oxygen to the roots. After loosening, mulching can be carried out.
4. pruning. In early spring, be sure to remove dry, frozen, diseased, as well as branches that bend inside the bush. Once every three years, anti-aging pruning is carried out. To prevent the bush from losing splendor, cut branches with wilted flowers to a third of the length.
5. Wintering. Modern varieties are relatively frost-resistant, however, weigela needs shelter for the winter. After the leaves fall, the trunk circle is well mulched and covered with dry leaves, straw, needles. The branches of the bush are tied, bent to the ground, pinned with wire and covered with one of the covering materials. Some flower growers build a simple frame. If the bush is small, then after tying it, you can simply wrap it with agrofiber in several layers.
6. Problems. If the weigela planting is very dense, as well as during the rainy season, its leaves can be affected by various fungal diseases. In this case, the plant should be treated Bordeaux mixture or suitable fungicides. The main pest for weigela is aphids, occasionally it can be affected by mites or caterpillars. To combat them, spraying with acaricides and insecticides is used.

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Use in design

Weigela in the landscape design of the garden occupies a fairly high position. After all, she has a lush crown with decorative leaves, and also blooms very beautifully and profusely.

The weigela plant (lat. Weigela) was named after Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel, a German botanist, chemist, and pharmacologist. In the natural environment, the plant can be found in the southeast, east of Asia, the Far East, the island of Java.

Weigela is a deciduous shrub with erect stems belonging to the Honeysuckle family. The genus consists of 15 species, 7 of which, together with 10 varieties, are cultivated. The oval-shaped petiolate leaves have serrated edges, are opposite, colored green, and may have a beige border.

Bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers reach a length of 5 cm, are located singly or are collected in loose inflorescences. The color of the corolla as it blooms from a dull shade turns into a more saturated one, it can be yellow, cream, pink, burgundy red and other colors. Flowering occurs twice a year: mid-May-mid-June, late August-late September, the second bloom is less lush.

Weigela loves moisture, shade-tolerant, easy to care for and reproduce.

When and how to plant weigela

Note that the article deals with the conditions of the middle zone, including the Moscow region. In order for the plant to take root well, it is best to plant in the spring, when the soil has not warmed up much yet, and the buds have not begun to swell. Planting in the fall most often leads to death - the plant does not have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

The ideal place would be South side on a slight elevation, since the abundance of flowering is facilitated by warmth and bright lighting. When planting in another place, protection from strong gusts of wind and drafts is necessary, due to which the buds may fall off.

The soil needs loose, fertile: loamy, sandy loam with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Weigela middendorffiana species also grows well on slightly acidic peat soils.

A planting hole should be dug about 30-40 cm deep. If the soil is poor, deepen another 10 cm to lay a fertile layer (1.5 buckets of compost) with fertilizers (100 g of nitrophoska). Lay a drainage layer about 15 cm thick on the bottom, consisting of coarse sand, then, if necessary, lay a nutrient layer (compost with fertilizer).

For the best, treat the roots of seedlings with a growth accelerator. For tall species(up to 2.5 m tall) it is necessary to observe a distance between plantings of 1.5-2 m, undersized species (up to 1 m tall) should be placed at a distance of 80 cm from each other. Straighten the roots, place the seedling in the planting hole, fill the soil gradually, tamp each layer. Water thoroughly after planting. root collar should be flush with the ground surface or a maximum of a couple of centimeters deeper. Mulch the trunk circle.

How to care for weigela in the garden

Watering and loosening

Moderate required. Mulch around the trunk will help keep the soil moist. In dry weather, water more abundantly. In the spring, if the shoots are very frozen, it is necessary to add 8-10 liters of water under each bush.

In order not to damage the root system of the plant, gently loosen the soil, deepening by 5-8 cm, remove weeds.

top dressing

If during planting you made nitrophoska and compost, the next top dressing should be carried out in the 3rd year of life. To stimulate growth in early spring, apply the complex mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. When the weigela begins to form buds (end of May-beginning of June), add superphosphate and potassium sulfate - flowering will be more lush, the stems will become stronger. For autumn digging, add wood ash (for each square meter 200 g of ash) or autumn Kemira fertilizer.

Young bushes need sanitary pruning: in early spring, remove frozen, broken, weak branches, thin out the bush a little.

pruning

Formative spend for adult plants: after flowering, shorten the young shoots by half the length.

Every 3-4 years, rejuvenate the weigela: remove all branches that are more than 3 years old, shorten the rest by 1/3. You can cut off all the shoots completely - the plant will recover perfectly.

Pests and diseases

Caterpillars, aphids, thrips, spider mites – possible pests plants. First of all, treat with natural preparations that are gentle on the environment. Spray with an infusion of hot pepper, wormwood or garlic. In extreme cases, resort to treatment with insecticides purchased at a flower shop.

After planting, seedlings may wither, turn yellow. Most likely, the roots are eaten by bears or larvae of the cockchafer. The soil must be spilled with a solution of aktara or karbofos.

Weigela can be affected by diseases such as gray rot, rust, spotting. Treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture. For prevention, with the beginning of the appearance of leaves, treat with Topsin solution at a concentration of 3%.

Growing weigela from seeds

The plant is propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

Weigels retain good germination for about 1 year. Stronger, more viable plants grow from seeds, but varietal characteristics are lost, so seed propagation is suitable for obtaining a large number species seedlings. There is no need to grow seedlings. You can sow before winter (November) or spring (end of April).

Winged seeds sow superficially, sprinkle with sand. For the winter, it is necessary to prepare a shelter, which should be removed in the spring. Seedlings appear after 3 weeks.

Weigela propagation by cuttings and layering

In early spring, root cuttings from lignified last year's shoots. In the period from the end of May to the beginning of June, root cuttings from slightly lignified young shoots of the current year.

The length should be 10-15 cm. Remove the lower leaves, shorten the upper ones by 1/2 of the length, treat the lower cut with a growth stimulator. Plant the cuttings in a wet sand-peat mixture, deepening by 1 cm, cover from above glass jar or plastic cap. Air daily, spray regularly. To stimulate bushiness, young shoots must be pinched.

In autumn, it can be propagated by layering. The lowest shoot must be bent to the ground, at the place of contact with the soil, make an incision in the bark, sprinkle with earth. In the spring, separate the seedling from the mother plant and transplant.

How to collect seeds

Seed boxes open on their own, so it is advisable to wrap several pieces with gauze so that their contents do not spill out onto the ground. Do this from mid-October, and in November, cut off the boxes along with gauze, gently shake the seeds onto a newspaper and dry them in a warm room with good ventilation. Place the seeds in a paper bag and store in a dry, warm place.

Weigela shelter for the winter

Many do not know how weigela for the winter. Meanwhile, a good shelter allows you to save the bushes not only in the conditions of the Moscow region, but also in the Leningrad region.

• After the leaves fall, sprinkle the near-stem circle with soil, forming a mound 15-20 cm high.
• Bend the branches to the ground, fix with staples, cover with roofing material.
• You can also pull the branches with twine or rope, mulch the near-stem circle with dry leaves, build a frame, wrap the structure with non-woven material.

Popular types and varieties of weigela

Weigela early or weigela pleasant Weigela praecox

A bush of spherical shape, reaching a height of 2 m. The leaves are pubescent. Flowers of a bright pink color with a yellowish-white throat are collected on lateral shoots in 2-3 pieces. Variegated weigela is a variegated variety - yellow spots, which become creamy in summer, cover green leafy plates.

Weigela florida Weigela florida or blooming weigela

The pubescent shoots reach a length of 3 m. The leaves are serrated, petiolate, there is pubescence along the central vein on the surface of the leaf plate, the veins on the underside are completely pubescent. Inflorescences are brightly colored pink color.

Popular Shapes:

• Weigela purple (Weigela Purpurea) or weigela red - limited to a height of 1.5 m. The leaves are red-brown. The color of the corollas is pink with a yellow throat.
• Alba is a dwarf shrub with white flowers.
• Weigela variegata ( Weigela florida Variegata) - has small leaves and bright pink flowers. The most frost-resistant form.
• Weigela pink (Weigela florida Bunge) - the outer part of the corolla is painted in a pink-burgundy shade, inside it is pale pink, almost white.
• Weigela Victoria (Weigela florida Victoria) - bush 1 m high, red-brown leaves, crimson corollas.

Weigela hybrid Weigela hybrida

Spreading shrub 1.5 m high. Flowers are singly or collected in loose inflorescences of 2-3 pieces. The color can be pink, white, purple, lilac, purple-red.

• Bristol Ruby - a bush 2.5-3 m high. The leaf plates are bright green. Pink flowers have a red-ruby throat.
• Red Prince (Red Prince) - sprawling bush with drooping shoots, height is 1.5 m. Flowers are red.
• Eva Rathke - compact bush reaches a height of 1.5 m. Reddish-pink corollas have a lighter inner surface.
• Rosea (Rosea) - the shoots bend, reach a height of 1.5 m. The flowers are large, painted pink with white specks.
• Styriaca (Styriaca) - abundant flowering. Corollas 2.5-3 cm long have a pinkish color, by the end of flowering they become red-brown

Weigela Middendorffiana Weigela middendorffiana

A bush with ascending shoots 1-1.5 m high. Corollas 3-4 cm in diameter are painted yellowish, the pharynx is covered with orange spots.

Weigela Korean Weigela coraeensis

The bush reaches a height of 1.5 m. The shoots are bare. Leaves 12 cm long, broadly elliptical, glossy above, covered with sparse fluff below. As it blooms, the corollas turn from pale pink to maroon.

Weigela Maksimovich Weigela maximowiczii

The height of the bush is 1.5 m. The leaves are obovate. Large flowers of pale yellow color are arranged in 1-2 pieces.

Weigela floriferous Weigela floribunda

Reaches a height of 3 m. Petiolate leaves 10 cm long are rarely pubescent on the surface, the pubescence runs along the veins from the bottom of the leaf plate. At the first flowering, the flowers are dark red, and later - pinkish.

Weigela Japanese Weigela japonica

Grows up to 1 m in height. Elliptical leaves are slightly hairy. Dark pink flowers are collected in 3 pieces.

Weigela garden Weigela hortensis

Height is 1 m. Flowering is plentiful. Pinkish-burgundy flowers are collected in dense inflorescences.

It has a graceful spreading crown and luxurious flowering. Shrub up to 1.5 m tall. It is especially beautiful during flowering. The flowers are tubular-funnel-shaped, solitary or collected in a loose inflorescence. They bloom on young leafy shoots. They are pink, purple, white, pinkish-violet and violet-carmine of various shades, have a delicate, pleasant aroma.

Under this name, several hybrid forms are combined that differ in the color of flowers and leaves. They are obtained as a result of crossings between species of weigel: flowering, garden, Korean and abundantly flowering. In horticulture, hybrid forms are used more often than wild species.

In Russia, the following varieties are popular among amateurs:

"Bristol Ruby" ("Bristol Ruby") - variety obtained in the USA in 1941. The height of the bushes is 2.5-3 m, the crown diameter is up to 3.5 m. The leaves are bright green, 6-10 cm long. The flowers are ruby ​​red at the edges, sometimes with an orange-red center. Blossoms in June-July, grows quickly.

Weigela "Bristol Ruby"
Photo by Andrey Ganov

"Gustav Malle" ("Gustave Mallet") - a hybrid between blooming and in Korean. Shrub up to 2.5 m tall. It has large (up to 5 cm in diameter) pink-carmine flowers with a wide white border. Blooms in late May for three weeks. In GBS since 1948, 3 samples (5 copies) were grown from seedlings obtained from Potsdam and from cuttings taken from collection plants. Height 2.8 m, crown diameter 250 cm plant grows from late April to October. The growth rate is average. Blooms in June. The fruits are not tied. Winter hardiness is high. 100% of cuttings take root when treated with phyton.

"Debussy" ("Desboisii") - a hybrid between garden and c. profusely flowering, with dark carmine small flowers. Blooms profusely in the second half of May for 20 days. Shrub 2.5-3 m tall. One of the early flowering varieties.

"Eva Rathke" ("Eva Rathke") - a hybrid between Korean and c. profusely flowering. Obtained in 1890 in Poland (Gdansk). Low shrub (0.7-1 m tall), compact, crown diameter 2-3 m. Leaves elliptical, pointed, 6-10 cm long, bright green. The flowers are red-carmine, tubular, shiny, lighter inside. Blooms in June-August, grows moderately fast. In Moscow winters with shelter.

"Fieri Lemoine" ("Feerie Lemoine") - bush up to 1 m high, flowers rather large, light pink. The origin of the variety is unknown.

"Rosea" ("Rosea")- a hybrid between blooming and in Korean. It has very large flowers with a spike-shaped limb, pink, slightly dazzled with white. The height of the bush is up to 1.5 m, the crown is spreading. Leaves are variegated red in autumn. This variety winters better than all the above, it needs only a little cover with a leaf.

Varieties are widely known abroad:

"candida" ("Candida")- a hybrid between blooming and in Korean with pure white flowers. Shrub up to 2 m high. Flowers retain purity of color even during wilting. Blooms in the third decade of May. Flowering continues for three weeks.

"Styriaka" ("Styriaca")- a hybrid between Korean and c. profusely flowering with light green leaves and pink flowers 2.5 cm long, reminiscent of the color of strawberries. It blooms profusely in May-June, when the flowers fade, they become carmine. Flowering lasts 16-18 days. The height of the bush is 2-2.5 m, the diameter of the openwork crown is 3 m. It grows quickly. Winters with cover. Unlike other weigels, cut flowers remain fresh for a long time. In GBS since 1948, 1 sample (2 copies) was grown from seedlings obtained from Germany. Height 1.5 m, trunk diameter 150 cm plant grows from late April to October. The growth rate is average. Blooms from mid-June to early July. The fruits are not tied. Partially freezes over in winter. 100% of cuttings take root when treated with phyton.

"Newport Red ("Newport Red") - variety with bright green leaves and large flowers. The height and diameter of the crown of the shrub is about 3 m. The leaves are bright green. Flowers carmine red to purple. Corolla length 3 cm. Flowering time: June-July. Flowering time is about three weeks. It grows quickly, winters with shelter.

"Marc Tellier" ("Marc Tellier") - shrub up to 3 m tall. The flowers are very large, up to 5 cm in diameter, carmine-pink. Blooms from the end of May. Flowering time is 20 days. Flowers do not fade in the sun.

"Pierre Duchartre" ("Pierre Duchartre") - shrub up to 1.5 m tall. The buds are blackish. The flowers are medium in size, dark brown-red with a purple edge. Blooms in late May for three weeks.

Among the group of weigels with different leaf colors are interesting: f sieboldii argenteo-marginata - with white-bordered leaves and pink flowers; f. kosteriana variegata - undersized, with yellow-bordered leaves and pink flowers; f. nana variegata - white-and-white, dwarf, with almost white flowers, etc.

"Looymansii Aurea". A small shrub about 1 m high, a little wider. Leaves 5-8 cm long. At the beginning of summer they are pale yellow, and then turn green. The plant is also spectacular at the time of flowering in spring, when it is covered with pink flowers collected in a brush. This weigela is better to plant in light partial shade, in the light it often suffers from heat.In light shade, it looks, although not so golden, but more attractive, since it does not “burn” in the sun.

Most hybrid forms can be cultivated in the southern and middle zones of the European part of Russia. Insufficiently hardy, needs shelter for the winter in central Russia. Likes moist, fertile soils.