Installation of a drainage system at the bathhouse. How to drain water under a bathhouse. Building a drain well - a practical option

The main problem of a bathhouse with a washing room is the removal of waste from it. Therefore, technology options for how to drain water in a bathhouse with wooden floors made from leaking or solid flooring are relevant for each individual developer.

Let’s immediately define the terms; by wooden floors in the article we mean - wood flooring(ladders), i.e. finishing coating for the floor in the bathhouse. The floor underneath them can be either wooden (on beams) or concrete (on the ground).

The main nuances of the construction and use of a bathhouse are:

the building is usually heated wood stoves, not intended for connecting heated water floor circuits;
sewerage is necessary in the washing room, less often in the steam room;
with periodic heating, wood on floors heats up faster than concrete screed or stove;
maximum heat loss is traditionally present in the floors of the lower floor, so they need to be insulated;
a budget option for a bathhouse on an MZLF, columnar or pile grillage is a floor on the ground without overlap;
Overlapping with beams, which has a shorter lifespan compared to a concrete structure, is a little more expensive.

Important! For bathhouses, the regulation SP 29.13330 (Floors) remains relevant, according to which the finishing coating in the washing room should be 1.5 - 2 cm lower than the lining in other rooms.

Types of wooden floors in the bathhouse

Wood flooring has a pleasant tactile sensation when walking on it barefoot, unlike other claddings. There are 2 categories of wooden bath floors:

Depending on the design of the foundation, the floor of the bathhouse may have the following design:

On both types of floors, both solid and leaking wooden floors are made.

Organization of drainage

Despite the periodic operating mode, it is prohibited to discharge wastewater onto the ground under the bathhouse. It is necessary to collect and dispose of them in a separate septic tank or centralized system drainage.

Depending on the design of the wooden floor, the drain can be organized in the following ways:

It is physically impossible to thermally insulate a leaking floor, so the insulation is laid below a large-format funnel made from the materials discussed above.

Important! Maximum heat loss in floors is observed when there is an underground space in the building, that is, in hanging grillages. Therefore, the floor and sewerage of a pile or columnar high grillage should be insulated in mandatory.

It is prohibited to discharge bath drains directly onto the ground under this building for the following reasons:

detergents lead to gradual contamination, not only of your own area, but also cause similar troubles for your neighbors;
moisture inevitably accumulates in the backfill cavities and destroys the foundation;
even with partial replacement soil with crushed stone/sand, the heaving forces sharply increase due to the swelling of clay in a humid environment.

The septic tank must be placed on the site in accordance with the requirements of SP, SanPiN standards at a distance of at least 4 m from the foundation of the bathhouse, and not under its floor. This will improve the quality of service for water treatment chambers, an infiltration well or a field through which clarified water is discharged into the ground for natural purification.

Leaking floor

This option provides quick drying wood and increasing the life of the floor covering. Depending on the design of the bathhouse floor, a leaking floor can be constructed in different ways:

A funnel under a leaking floor, collecting liquid, is constructed from the following materials:

Advice! Leaking floor joists are treated with antiseptics or penetrating compounds to increase their service life in a humid environment.

A leaking floor is inconvenient from a hygiene standpoint - large debris inevitably penetrates into the funnel through the wide cracks (for example, broom leaves carried on the body from the steam room), so it is better to make the boards removable. A compromise is made with lattice pallets or fastening boards into special nests.

Another option is flexible board ladders for baths. The board is connected in these structures with a cord or cable; after laying on the logs, such wooden mats retain spatial rigidity. After washing, they can be rolled up and put away to dry.

Flexible wooden ladders for baths.

tongue and groove board

This option is more convenient to use, but moisture takes longer to evaporate and the boards warp when dry. A non-leakage floor can be made using joists laid on a floor slab or floor on the ground, or beams wooden floor. Therefore, the design of the drain unit is different:

There is no constant heating in the bathhouse, so insulation under the floor is necessary solely to reduce the time it takes to reach steam mode and increase operating comfort.

Selecting a drain unit

The periodic operating mode of the bath causes the water seal inside the classic bottle or U-shaped siphon to dry out. Therefore, in these outbuildings, dry drains of several types are more often used:

When installing a dry drain, harmful gases will not be able to penetrate from the septic tank through the pipes external sewerage into the bathhouse, relieving users of the smell of hydrogen sulfide and methane.

Attention: Natural ventilation under the wood floor covering provided with decorative hatches (2 pieces per room are enough) and cuts in the joists. Hatches are located diagonally, decorated with gratings, usually located under shelves and benches.

Thus, in wooden floors it is possible to equip a sewer drain on our own. For most of these outbuilding projects, there are at least two options, allowing you to choose the most economical one. The best option There will be a floor on the ground with a leaking floor laid on joists.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

When building a bathhouse, special attention should be paid competent organization water drainage systems. If everything is done correctly, fungus will never appear in the sauna and there will be no unpleasant odors. And the building itself will last much longer.

Floors in the bathhouse - selecting a suitable base

Russian bathhouse or sauna on your own suburban area- the dream of many people. Bringing it to life is not that difficult. It is enough to understand all the features of the construction and arrangement of the steam room, in particular, the rules for organizing drainage in it. This issue needs attention increased attention. If you do not organize effective drainage of waste water from the sauna, within a couple of years after the start of operation, its foundation, floor base and lower parts of the walls will become unusable. Naturally, very soon all these problems will cause the destruction of the building.

It’s really possible to do the drainage in the bathhouse with your own hands, but first we need to deal with everything existing options drainage system, select optimal system, and only after that start arranging the drain. The first issue to be resolved is related to the type of flooring in the steam room. They can be done:

concrete;
wooden.

A concrete floor is ideal for a capital sauna, in which water procedures accepted throughout the year. Such a base consists of several successive layers. The first is compacted gravel, then concrete mortar, vapor barrier, heat insulator (it is best to use polystyrene foam boards). The insulation is covered with polyethylene, which acts as a water protector. Another layer of concrete is laid on it. The entire structure is secured with a reinforced cement screed. At the very end concrete base lined with tiles (ceramics) or other finishing materials.

A wooden floor is much faster and easier to build. It is installed in bathhouses used exclusively in the warm season. The costs for wooden foundations are significantly less than for concrete ones. But there is one problem. Even with careful processing of wood special. compositions, after some time it will begin to deteriorate under the influence of moisture and high temperature. After 5–6 years of operation, such a floor will have to be completely re-laid. This should be kept in mind when choosing the type of base for your bath.

Wooden floors are structurally divided into non-leaking and leaking. The first of these are always laid on a pre-made concrete screed (it must have a certain slope). Non-leaking structures are prone to rotting, since after using the steam room they take quite a long time to dry. From this point of view, leaky floors are more convenient to use. They are simply laid on the joists without rigid attachment to the latter. The boards are laid with small (about 5 mm) gaps. It is through them that water is removed from the surface of the flooring. At any time, such a floor can be removed, taken outside under the hot sun and dried.

If you plan to build a leaky foundation, you should make a pit (preferably sealed) under the sauna and connect a pipe to it, through which the drainage will be carried out.

Wastewater disposal systems - pros and cons during operation

Having figured out the type of flooring, we move on to selecting a suitable drainage system. There are several options for arranging a drain:

soil filtration technique;
installation of a drainage well;
pit.

The choice of one system or another depends on the geometric parameters and frequency of use of the bathhouse, the presence or absence of a centralized sewerage system on the site, the depth to which the soil freezes, and directly the type of soil available. If a person plans to go to his own sauna with two or three friends a couple of times a week, there is no particular need to organize a complex drainage (for example, ground filtration). IN similar situations you can get by at low cost by building a simple pit or well for waste water. If the bathhouse becomes a permanent gathering place large quantity lovers of hot steam will have to take care of arranging a more sophisticated and efficient system.

On the ground clay type The smartest thing to do is to make a drain hole. Used water will flow into it from the bathhouse through pipes and then be pumped out. For sandy and similar soils, systems in the form of drainage wells are more suitable. We also take into account the most important requirement - the pipes through which water will be drained must be laid below the freezing level of the soil. If we install them above the specified level, in severe frosts they will freeze, and we will not be able to fully use the private bathhouse.

Let's talk about the pros and cons of different drainage systems. And then we’ll find out exactly how each of them is mounted. Let's start with the simplest system - a pit. It is essentially a hole that is dug under the floor base of the steam room. A layer of filter material is placed at the bottom of the pit. Water passes through it, is purified, and then gradually seeps into the soil. The pit does not require pipes or any other communications to operate. Its arrangement takes a minimum of time. These are definitely advantages. But this solution also has disadvantages. Firstly, a pit cannot be made on soils that do not absorb water well. Secondly, it cannot be installed in saunas with a foundation in the form monolithic slab. Thirdly, even a deep pit is characterized by an objectively low throughput potential.

It won't be much more expensive to install a drainage well. This is understood as a sealed tank for collecting wastewater, buried in the ground. When it is full, the owner of the bathhouse calls a sewer truck. She pumps out the water. Any summer resident will make a drainage system, spending a minimum of effort on the work. Here you just need to choose the right place to install the tank. It should be installed on the lowest plot of land. any special care behind the drain well is not required. The disadvantages of the system are the need to regularly call special equipment to pump out water and to arrange fairly wide access routes to the tank. The sewer truck will not pass along the narrow path.

A drainage well is a deep and wide hole that is filled with a layer of filter element. This may include furnace slag, small pieces of bricks, crushed stone, construction sand. Digging a hole is easy. Cover it with filtrate too. But here's to serving drainage system not at all easy. The wastewater is not pumped out of it. They go into the ground. In this case, at least once every 5-6 months you need to completely change the filter layer and clean the well. Such an operation requires considerable labor costs, which negates all the advantages of the system.

We will consider the advantages and disadvantages of the ground filtration method below. And we’ll immediately describe exactly how professional builders make such a system. It is considered the most effective option for draining wastewater from private saunas.

Soil filtration - how effective and durable?

The method of soil wastewater treatment requires the installation of a complete sewer system. It includes pipes for collecting and draining water and a special septic tank. The latter plays the role of a distribution well and at the same time a settling tank. Some craftsmen assemble the septic tank on their own, but more often they buy it ready-made in specialized stores. The advantages of the system are high-quality purification of heavily polluted water, completely autonomous operation, and no need to call in equipment to pump out the well. Disadvantages - a huge amount of land (very labor-intensive) work, the considerable cost of the consumables and equipment used, the need to allocate a large area for installing a septic tank.

A step-by-step guide to setting up a ground filtration system is provided below. First, we decide on the location of the septic tank. We bury it 150–250 cm into the soil. Then we connect the sewer pipe to the installed container. We remind you! It should be laid below the freezing mark of the ground. After this, we prepare perforated drainage pipes (the so-called drains). We select their cross-section and length taking into account the volume of wastewater. In most cases, plastic products with a cross-section of 110 cm are used as drains. You can also use other pipes by drilling a number of holes in them.

Length of one drainage pipe It is undesirable to take more than 25 m. The pipes are laid in trenches about 1 m wide (minimum 50 cm). The distance between individual drains must be maintained at least 150 cm. The system installation process itself looks like this:

1. We draw up a diagram for laying drains. We dig a trench with a slope of about 1.5°, checking its accuracy with a building level.
2. If the soil is sandy, we make a cushion of gravel and sand at the bottom of the trench (the thickness of each layer is 10 cm), and then lay geotextiles on top. For clay soils the procedure is similar. But in this case there is no need to use geotextile material. It is allowed not to make a pillow on loams. In this case, the pipes must be wrapped in geotextiles. In this way we will reduce the risk of siltation of the system.
3. Lay the prepared drains. At their end we install a half-meter (slightly more) pipe for ventilation.
4. Fill the drains with 10 cm of gravel. Fill the trench to the top with a layer of soil.
5. Cover the ventilation outlet. pipes with a protective cap. It will prevent leaves and debris from entering the ventilation duct.

The soil drainage filtration system is ready! At proper arrangement it will serve trouble-free for at least 15 years. But after a specified period of time, you will have to change the cushion under the drains, since it will gradually silt up during the operation of the sewer.

Making a pit - a simple and quick operation

As noted, drainage from small, rarely used baths can be organized using a pit. The diagram of its device is as follows:

1. We dig a hole under the future floor base of the steam room.
2. We fill our mini-pit with a layer of crushed stone, expanded clay or broken brick.
3. Pour sand on top.
4. We install wooden logs on top of the pit with the filter pad made.
5. We lay the plank flooring on the mounted supporting elements. As you remember, we install lumber not closely, but with gaps.

Boards can be nailed to the joists. But it’s better not to do this in order to be able to periodically remove the flooring and dry it outside.

Some craftsmen make an improved pit. It serves as a collector for wastewater, which, after reaching a given level, goes into the sewer. This pit option is also quite simple to construct. We dig a cubic hole under the floor. We take the length of the ribs of such a pit to be at least 50 cm. We protect the walls and bottom of the pit from moisture. The easiest and most reliable way is to fill them with concrete mixture. Although you can use any roll waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt.

Further, at a height of approximately 10 cm from floor base we bring the pipe to the pit. We take it outside the building on a slope (otherwise the drains will not be able to leave the pit by gravity). We install a water seal. It is a device that prevents unpleasant sewer odors from entering the steam room. The simplest water seal is a metal plate installed at a slight angle. Its lower end should be about 5 centimeters away from the bottom of the pit. The shutter can also be made from an ordinary rubber ball. It should be secured above the pit (directly above the drain). When the tank is empty, the ball covers the pipe, and when the tank is filled, it floats up and the water flows freely through the pipe.

Building a drain well - a practical option

Drain pit is rightfully considered the most rational way to organize drainage from a bathhouse. We need to dig a hole and install a metal or plastic tank in it. This option does not require serious expenditure of effort. But also durability drainage structure it turns out not very big. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer other methods of arranging such a system. They make pits from reinforced concrete rings or line the walls of the well with bricks. In this case, the structure becomes more reliable, due to which its service life is significantly increased.

Working with reinforced concrete products is difficult. But it’s quite possible for any self-taught craftsman to do brickwork. Let us describe the last option for organizing the drain step by step:

1. We choose a place for a well, remembering that it is always located at the lowest point of the land plot. In addition, we need to immediately take care of arranging the access to the drainage pit for the machine pumping out the wastewater.
2. We dig a hole of the planned size. It is recommended to make it rectangular or square. Then the volume earthworks it will be smaller. We make sure that the walls of the pit are smooth and dense (we do not allow soil to fall off them).
3. We make the bottom of the pit with a slope, directing it towards the hatch.
4. Pour a 15-centimeter layer of sand into the hole and tamp it down. Pour concrete mortar on top. It is allowed to install a finished slab (reinforced concrete) on the bottom. Due to this, it is possible to reduce the time required for the work, since you do not have to wait several weeks for the concrete solution to completely harden.

Now we begin laying the walls of our drain structure. We carry out the operation using new or used red brick. We make the masonry 25–30 cm thick. We install the bricks with an offset of half a stone. We fix the products with a composition made up of sand, clay and water. We install a pipe in one of the walls for the wastewater entering the well.

Brick is a permeable material. Therefore, the masonry needs to be additionally sealed. We use any bitumen mastic. We apply it strictly according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After waterproofing the walls, we install a ceiling on the well. It should be 25–30 cm larger than the pit (on each side). It is advisable to make the ceiling from reinforced concrete. This design has a considerable weight, but is distinguished by its durability and unique strength.

The process of installing the ceiling is as follows: we assemble the formwork, fill it with concrete (layer - about 7 cm), install metal reinforcement, and add another concrete layer on top. We are waiting for the ceiling to harden. After the concrete has crystallized, we install a hatch in the center of the slab. Let's take it plastic film. We cover the flooded floor with it and fill it with soil. Only the hatch remains on the surface of the earth. Through it, wastewater will be pumped out from the brick tank after the tank is filled to a critical level.

Drainage structure - how to do it?

A drainage well is made exclusively in areas where groundwater flows very deeply. If they are located high, the structure we are interested in will not be able to perform its function. It will begin to fill up groundwater, and the drainage from the bathhouse will simply have nowhere to collect. The drainage well should be dug 2–2.5 m from the walls of the building. If, the risk of subsidence or wetting of the foundation will increase. With a smaller distance between the wall of the building and the pit, we will not be able to organize the required slopes to ensure gravity flow of water.

By selecting suitable place, we dig a cylindrical hole in the ground. Theoretically, the well can have any other shape. But practice shows that cylindrical pits are much less likely to need repair work. In addition, they show a uniform distribution of loads on the walls. We can choose any depth and size of the well. For large and actively visited baths, the parameters of the well, of course, should be more impressive than for saunas that their owners use only from time to time.

Laying walls with brick or wild stone. Important! We lay the products with small gaps. They are needed to naturally remove moisture.
Installing containers made of metal or plastic. Before installing it in a hole in the tank, you need to make holes on the sides and cut off the bottom.
Stacking a few old ones car tires at each other.
Installation of slate sheets. This option is suitable for wells in the shape of a rectangle or square.

We fill the reinforced pit with crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay, making a cushion 10–15 cm high. Then we cover it with sand (the thickness is similar). We dig a trench to the well from the sauna (don’t forget about the slope, optimally if it is 1 cm for every meter). We put a drain pipe into it. We put the last one into the drainage hole. After this, you need to install a cover on the well. It is better to make it metal and always removable. After all, we will have to regularly maintain the drainage pit, changing the filter layer in it and cleaning it. All that remains is to cover the lid with polyethylene and fill the structure with soil.

Choose suitable option sewerage for the bathhouse and do all the work ourselves. Guided by the given instructions, we will arrange a truly effective system drainage.

A well-planned bathhouse design not only increases the service life of the building, but also protects it from the appearance of mold and pathogenic fungi, and also increases the heat transfer of the heating installation. The main requirement of the bathhouse is to thoroughly drain the wastewater.

A properly designed structure using concrete and boards will eliminate odor and reduce the proliferation of pathogenic microorganisms.

How to make a drain in a bathhouse with your own hands? You will find the answer to this question in our material.

How does the internal sewage system work?

Proper drainage of wastewater in a bathhouse can be done in several ways:

leaking;
not leaking.

In the first case, it is collected in a special department, where the waste liquid flows into the sewer pipes. In the second option, during the construction process the building is made at a certain angle of inclination with additional gutters to drain dirty water.

A detailed diagram helps to avoid common mistakes when self-construction. It includes:

Preparing a trench for laying pipes. The depth of the grooves should not exceed 0.5 m. During the installation process, it is necessary to observe correct angle tilt To do this, each subsequent pipe is fixed 3 cm higher than the previous one.

The bottom of the trench is sprinkled with sand. The height of such a substrate should be 16 cm after compact compaction. During the installation process, it is important to maintain the angle of inclination.

Next, all the pipes are connected to each other and laid at the bottom of the pits. If the bathhouse will have a bathroom, then it is necessary to install an additional sewer riser. To do this, it is fixed to the wall surface with a special clamp.

For proper circulation of air masses in the toilet, additional ventilation must be installed. This will reduce the lingering of unpleasant odors indoors.

After this, they move on to laying the flooring. During the sewer installation process, it is necessary to connect additional metal gratings. They will prevent large debris from entering the drain hole.

Eliminate bad smell, special water seals will help. They are rubber pads that are fixed in the area of the drain hole.

Basic parameters for choosing a sewer system for a bathhouse

How to drain a bathhouse? Before proceeding with the construction of an external sewage system, it is recommended to consider several main factors:

intensity of use of the bathhouse;
dimensions of the building;
variety soil composition on the site where the premises will be located;
level of soil freezing in winter period time;
connection to the central sewerage.

These factors are an integral part in the initial stages of bathhouse design. For frequent use of the room, it is necessary to design complex system drainage of sewage water.

For this purpose, ground filtration is additionally carried out. In addition, it is enough to use a waste pit here. The waste will gradually be absorbed into the thickness of the soil cover.

If the area is dominated by sandy soil, then for reliability, drainage rings are used. For clay soil, optimal solution there will be strengthening interior walls. As the pit fills with waste, it must be cleaned with special equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages of sewer drain devices

Today, there is huge amount devices for arrangement drainage sewer for a bath. They have both positive and negative sides. These include:

Drainage well. It is a deep pit, the walls of which are filled with filtrate. For this, sand, small crushed stone, and pebbles are used.

The advantages of this method include: low cost of materials, ease of installation. The disadvantages include the labor-intensive process of replacing filtered masses with new ones.

Drain well. This is a large container for collecting sewer liquids, in which waste from the bathhouse gradually accumulates. As it is filled, it is cleaned using special equipment or cars.

The advantages of such a system are: ease of installation and arrangement of the drainage pit, low cost. Negative qualities include: frequent cleaning, inconvenient location of the drain well. As a rule, installation should be carried out at the lowest point of the site.

Pit. It is located under the floor covering of the bathhouse. Drain waste is collected in this pit and undergoes independent cleaning through a filtrate of fine fraction materials.

TO positive qualities systems include: low cost of materials, easy installation. Disadvantages similar structure considered: low throughput, it can be used on sandy and sandy loam soils.

Ground filtration. This is a system that consists of a septic tank and several pipes. Purified water passes through them. The pipeline is laid at a certain angle, due to which all the liquid will drain on its own and be absorbed by the soil.

The advantages of such a system are considered to be: it can be used for the entire sewer network; with its help, the liquid is thoroughly cleaned from harmful impurities. A photo of a bathhouse drain shows the process of filtering sewage waste.

Photo of a drain in a bathhouse

A bathhouse is a place that often comes into contact with water. Moreover, this happens both outside and inside. AND Protecting wooden walls with a waterproof coating is not enough- it is necessary to organize high-quality drainage to avoid frequent foundation repairs, damage to the bathhouse by pathogenic fungus and wood rotting.

Water is drained from the washing room directly into the drain tank or into a place designated for drainage. Options for organizing a water intake system may differ quite significantly depending on the conditions in which the bathhouse is built and the type of drainage.

First, you need to know the answers to several important questions regarding the conditions for constructing a branch:

Where will the drain be located and what area should be allocated for it?
What type of soil is on your site where the bathhouse will be located?
Is it possible to connect to the central sewer?
What budget are you looking for?
Will you build the drain yourself or use hired labor?

From the right organization drainage communications depends on the longevity of the building and the quality of the bath procedures. Even if the volume of wastewater is small, you should not hope that the soil will absorb all the liquid: the remaining water will still spoil the foundation and the soil itself, which can cause shrinkage of the structure. The only case when a drain may not be necessary is if the bathhouse itself will be used no more than once a month by a small number of people (2-3 people). Here you can use a so-called leaky floor, with widely laid boards. In all other cases, this is the first thing you need to plan after laying the foundation. Therefore it is very useful to know various ways organizing a drain for a bathhouse, even if you do not do it yourself, but order it from a construction company.

Autonomous sewerage system with settling well

The first and most labor-intensive method is a filter settling well based on autonomous sewerage. Here the system consists of two tanks, preferably made of plastic. The first tank filters wastewater from coarse particles using a simple mesh filter installed in the tank. The second tank carries out a second stage of wastewater treatment before sending it to the waste pit. But for any drainage option with sewerage it is necessary special design floor in the bathhouse.

The whole point of such a floor is to tilt towards the center of the room at the initial stage of construction. A fitting is mounted in the center of the floor, which fits closely to the connector in the floor, tightly sealed with sealant around the installation site. The fitting funnel is selected within 5 cm, with slight deviations. Drain pipes from all rooms, if several, are connected by a splitter. But it's worth knowing that the construction of a cesspool is advisable only in the case of deep groundwater, at least 4-5 m deep. Otherwise your pit will be flooded. all year round and the odors of putrefactive bacteria from it will haunt you until each subsequent cleaning. If the conditions for sewage pit favorable, then the second point in calculating the flow will be to determine the volume of the pit according to several criteria: the number of people in the bathhouse, frequency of use and water consumption.

Next, when the drainage project is ready, the location of the pit is calculated: it should be no further than 2 meters from the bathhouse. If the drain is placed too close, there is a possibility of water penetrating into the foundation. If it is too far away, then it will not be possible to make a sufficient slope for water to drain naturally.

When laying the foundation, you most likely have already become familiar with the type of soil on the site and its properties. When creating a drain hole important to understand physical properties land, since taking this into account, accompanying measures will be selected to strengthen the pit frame. However, if the soil is not loose and does not crumble, then nothing will need to be strengthened. But excessively dense clay soil also has a disadvantage in the case of drainage - it does not absorb well. Sometimes in areas you come across good combination sufficiently dense soil with good absorbent properties. Then work with the hole will be limited to the fact that you just need to dig it and arrange filtration according to one of the described methods. But such conditions occur very rarely. Most often, the soil crumbles and you have to resort to strengthening the boundaries of the pit. For strengthening, they often use brickwork with gaps to absorb water, or wild stone (any waterproof material). The easiest option is to use a large plastic tank with many holes as the internal frame of the pit.

It is also important to choose optimal size for holes in the tank. The optimal shape for the tank in this case is a streamlined cylindrical one, since it in the best possible way holds the pressure created by water. It is also necessary to provide the pit with a heavy ceiling made of or iron.

When the tank is ready, filtration material (broken or) is poured into the bottom of the pit and then covered with a layer. The waste pipes, previously connected under the floor of the bathhouse into one, are discharged at a slope to the pit. Moreover optimal slope required for rapid drainage varies within 1 cm per 1 meter of pipeline.

Arrangement of a simple drainage pit

This method of organizing drainage is simpler than the first one due to the elimination of several stages of filtration. It involves all the stages of organizing drainage in the bathhouse itself and digging a hole, but in this case only a septic tank without filters will be used. The method is used if there is no desire to bother with replacing the filtration material and it is possible to use a sewage machine to pump out wastewater.

But in this case, you should think about approaching the pit within reach of the car’s arm. The second way to clean a simplified pit system is the use of special bacteria to process rotting residues in a septic tank. Its effectiveness is, of course, several times lower than complete waste removal or natural filtration, but it also has its place.

Ground filtration method

In this method, the main thing is the organization through which the liquid will be supplied to the sewer. The system will be distributed over the entire area of the site so that the water has time to go through several stages of filtration before draining.

Filtration is carried out according to the principle of drainage: the first stage is to install a grate on the pipe (in the initial section) to catch large waste. Then, in the future, the water flows through a section of pipes covered with large filter material. The last stage is a fine filter, that is, coarse sand.

Thus, the water from the wastewater will be filtered throughout the entire area at the same time creating an additional source of irrigation I. This method is suitable only in case of low groundwater, since the location of the pipes must be more than 0.5 meters above the water level.

Drain pipe method

In general, this method is similar to the previous ones and differs only in the type of materials and slight differences in the design of the septic tank. Longer pipe length is important here. At the same time, it is important to install the pipe itself at the stage of pouring the foundation with a slope towards the area for building a sump.

The sump is made on the basis that make up the walls of the pit. The bottom, in turn, should not be covered with anything for better absorption of waste. The pipe is laid without corners or bends, and the diameter of the pipe is taken to be the maximum possible among sewer pipes for domestic waste. When installing a pipe, it is important to insulate it, since when the soil freezes and deforms the plastic, at best.

Drainage material (crushed stone, broken brick, or slag from coal combustion) is placed at the bottom of the trench and covered with a small layer of sand. Then it is placed on the bottom drain pipe, taken away from the bathhouse. The pit will be designed for a small volume of waste, no more than 100 liters. Therefore, you should think carefully before choosing this option.

If there is at least some possibility of connecting your drainage system to the central sewer system, then this is the most optimal and most effective option for organizing wastewater. If the site is located in an area that is not suitable for this, then you will have to carefully study the soil characteristics, the slope of the site, internal communications, the presence and level of groundwater, and correctly calculate materials and energy costs. Bathhouse owners are often faced with a choice: septic tank or well? Both options have their pros and cons. Setting up a well, for example, will take more time than installing a septic tank. But the right well provides the best filtration of water and virtually eliminates the appearance of unpleasant odors. A septic tank is more suitable for frequent use of a bathhouse, as it provides faster absorption of water. In financial terms, the organization of a septic tank and a well are almost the same.

The drainage ditch, which was described in the last, fifth method, is only permissible in the case of a small volume of water and the absence of cultivated plants on the site. Otherwise, they will simply be poisoned by detergents coming from the drains, even though the water will undergo filtration to some extent. Nevertheless, This is the cheapest and fastest option for organizing a drain.

In general, despite the apparent ease of performing the task of organizing a drain, It’s not so easy to calculate all communications correctly. Therefore, if you do not have experience in construction, it is better to hire a team of builders - today this service is not too expensive.

Proper drainage of water from a bathhouse is one of the most important points during construction. Its durability, the absence of harmful odors of raw materials or fungus, and how often the foundation will subsequently have to be repaired directly depend on this. In this article we invite you to understand various options drainage system devices.

The easiest way is to install a drain pipe

The simplest and most tried and tested method for draining water in a bathhouse for decades is a drain pipe, which is laid during the construction of the foundation of the steam room. It needs to be made obliquely in relation to the drainage hole itself - this way you won’t have to additionally insulate it.

The hole itself should be dug at a distance of 3 to 5 meters from the bathhouse, and its edges must be strengthened from possible collapses. It's better if they are concrete rings– or a frame filled with concrete. But it is important to make the bottom of the hole so that the water in it is freely absorbed into the soil.

To prevent the water drain for the bath from becoming clogged, it is advisable to make the pipe completely without bends - after all, it is from them that it is most difficult to remove debris. And yes - you can only take a sewer pipe for these purposes, the diameter of which has its own strictly defined value.

Installing the drain pipe is quite simple, just follow these instructions:

Step 1. A hole is prepared, and a trench is dug from it to the bathhouse.
Step 2. The drain pipe is installed - it is not necessary to insulate it, but it won’t hurt.
Step 3. A cement floor is made in the washing room, with a slope along the entire perimeter towards the drain pipe. It is important that the floor actually turns out without dents - water should not stagnate anywhere later.
Step 4. So that the bathhouse can operate all year round without any problems, the water drain is equipped with a mesh - all the garbage will be collected on it, and there will be no blockages in the pipe.
Step 5. After all this, you can lay tiles on the cement floor - the color and style that you like and matches the style of the bathhouse interior. And then wooden grates with special impregnation are placed on the tiles so that during pleasant bath procedures you do not have to walk barefoot on the hot tiles.

Where and how best to drain the water?

But where the water itself will go - it all depends on the planned budget and the load on the drainage. So, it never hurts to build a separate cesspool, and then lay a trench from it and put a sewer pipe in it with good insulation.

And the most budget option– directly under the sink there is a gravel bed (both large and small), where the water will go.

Funnel made easy

Some bath attendants also make something like a funnel under the washing and steam room - they concrete its walls and coat it with liquid glass. In the center of such a funnel is a drain pipe that extends beyond the bathhouse: into a pit, the walls of which are reinforced with bricks, or the pit itself is an old one. iron barrel without bottom.

At the bottom of the pit there is gravel, at the top there is a thick metal lid and a hole for the ventilation pipe. Judging by the reviews, such a simple but reliable system may not be opened for ten years.

We also recommend reading the article about installing a shower drain in the floor under tiles on the Vannapedia website - the technology for installing a classic water drainage system is very well described there.

Drainage hole outside the bathhouse

But some builders today are convinced that the water must be removed outside the bathhouse. They say that sand takes a long time to dry even in summer, and in winter all the water that goes under the foundation in the old fashioned way will simply turn into ice - and you can forget about warm floors in the steam room until spring.

Others are sure that very little water is used for one or two people in a bathhouse, the steam room is usually used from time to time, and if you take not ordinary sand, but a large fraction, then no problems should arise...

But the pit itself can be made using a technology that lately becomes especially popular among bath attendants: the pit is made from tires of a jeep or similar car. The water flows into this pit through plastic pipes, and so that the bathhouse in winter is neither cold nor unpleasant odors didn’t hit, a water seal is made - something like a hydraulic lock:

Step 1. Take a plastic five-liter bucket, make a handle from galvanized tape and place it on the lowest cord from the top tire iron pipe- across the pit. A bucket is hung on it - it will hang like a cauldron over a fire, below the top level of the pit.

Point 2. At the end sewer pipe a corrugation is put on, which is lowered into the bucket from above - it will be located at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom and 10 cm from the edge, i.e. in the middle of the bucket. That's the whole hydraulic lock - after draining, all the water will be collected in a bucket and overflow, carefully flowing into the hole. And when the draining stops, the water that remains in the bucket will prevent the same air from entering the bathhouse. And, even if dirt or leaves settle on the bottom of the bucket, you can always turn it over to clean it.

What system to make for a large number of people?

For a steam room, which is visited from time to time by three or four friends, you need one water outlet in the bathhouse, but for a whole group of regulars, it’s a different one. In a bathhouse for a small number of steamers, a drainage hole is usually installed directly under the foundation. Its walls can be lined with bricks and covered with coarse sand - just right for a summer bath. But in the second case, you will need a special pipe that will go into the drainage well - and below the freezing level of the soil, otherwise it will freeze. Or you can combine both methods - using the first in the summer, and the second in the winter.

And so that the water from the bath does not go to waste and does not pollute environment habitat, you can use a septic tank, which will clean it and distribute it through irrigation pipelines. The most complex and expensive way to remove and purify water from a bathhouse is a well with biological filters. It contains slag, broken bricks and crushed stone. The whole secret is that when bath waste water constantly enters a well, it becomes covered with silt over time, and in the silt there are microorganisms, which are then purified waste water. Such a septic tank is usually built in the lowest place on the site.

That's it! Nothing complicated - you can do a proper drain in a bathhouse with your own hands.