Rooting lilac cuttings. Methods for propagating various varieties of lilacs at home. What does lilac prefer?

All cultivars lilacs reproduce vegetatively: shoots (own-root specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have grafting skills, and it is problematic for you to make layering, then the most suitable method for you is propagation by green cuttings.

Gardeners have the misconception that blooms worse. However, it is in no way inferior in terms of, moreover, it is more durable. There are landings that proper care do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years. refers to plants that are difficult to root, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings. Semi-lignified cuttings do not root. Most right time- the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when young overgrowing branches finish their growth.
It is desirable to cut the cuttings in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using twigs of medium thickness (in extreme cases, thin ones) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best to have 2-3 nodes on it and fairly short internodes.

Shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots are not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings. In lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings

First, completely remove the leaves from the bottom node.

Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which the leaves have been removed. Use a well-sharpened or special secateurs for this, in order to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internodes, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not take root.

Cut the remaining leaf blades in half.

Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top node.

Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in the stimulant solution Epin-extra at 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting lilac cuttings in a greenhouse

It is best to plant cuttings in a greenhouse or located in partial shade. In extreme cases, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with trimmed five-liter ones from under drinking water. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. Not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Fill the stalk with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. From above, cover it with a layer of sand (preferably river sand) 5 cm thick. Pour the prepared place well with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from damage by fungal diseases.

Lilac cuttings take root difficult, so the use of root stimulants is necessary. Dip the cutting with the wet end into the stimulator Kornevin.

Make a small indentation in the damp sand and place the stalk there, completely deepening the lower knot. Make sure that the root stimulator powder does not crumble from it. Seal. The lower end of the handle should be completely in the sand and not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves lightly touch each other.

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle with water. You can add the solution remaining from soaking the cuttings to the water. Epina-extra.

Cover the cuttings with two layers of polyethylene, placing between them a layer of rare or translucent fabric. You can use other methods of shading, for example, put a plastic mesh fruit box on top of polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow. Make sure that the sand in the cutting does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they successfully root at 100%. Spray once a week with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Lilac cuttings take root for a very long time, depending on the variety, the roots appear on the 40-60th day after planting. With the formation of roots, the stalk must be ventilated in the evening, and then open it completely.

Caring for rooted cuttings

If rooting happened late, then it is best to leave the cuttings for the winter in the cuttings. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, early autumn they can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing. In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but builds up. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not scary. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

For growing young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if necessary, 300-400 g or 200 g of dolomite flour per 1 square meter and dig a shovel onto the bayonet. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young lilac roots are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water it so that the earth settles a little.

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Lilac is famous for the beauty of its flowers and wonderful aroma, so many people want to plant it on their site. The tree will look great in the country or on adjoining territory city buildings.

Not everyone knows how to grow lilac from a twig. It is necessary to ensure that the plant is accepted, does not hurt and pleases with its wonderful flowers. More about this in the article.

Advantage of cuttings

Lilac cuttings have advantages over other options for obtaining ready-made bushes. At independent use seeds can be difficult, as they do not always germinate easily.

The purchase of seedlings leads to additional costs, so lilac cuttings will also be a profitable option. If you understand the intricacies of landing in other ways, you can choose any. Any method requires careful preparation and phasing. Do not forget about care, which should be regular.

Cutting selection

Before you learn how to grow a lilac from a twig, you should choose the right cutting - it depends on whether the shoot will be accepted or not. The branch must be cut carefully. This should be done in early spring when the stalk is not yet in active growth Otherwise, it will be difficult for him to take root.

It is necessary to cut green branches of medium thickness. A cutting from the crown of a young bush is perfect, preferably from the middle. It will be possible to grow a bush if there are 2-3 knots and small internodes on the branch. It is advisable to cut the cuttings in the early morning - they will be better accepted.

Treatment

How to grow a lilac from a twig? How to make sure that the stalk is well received? To do this, it is necessary to process it with high quality: remove the leaves from the lower node, and then make an oblique cut with a sharp knife. It is advisable to use a grafting pruner.

This must be done carefully so that the cut at the internode does not turn out. Next, cut the sheet plates in half. Remove the top of the shoot completely with a straight cut. After that, the cutting can be used for planting.

Landing

So, how to grow a lilac from a twig? After processing and trimming, the stalk must be lowered into the Epin-extra solution. After 16 hours, it must be removed and washed with clean water.

Next, we plant the stalk in enriched soil. The earth must be mixed with sand, peat or perlite in equal quantities and a branch placed in it so that the lower node is covered. Water immediately with a fungicide solution to protect the plant from fungus.

Watering

How to grow a bush from a sprig of lilac? To do this, it is necessary to ensure high-quality watering. After planting, the plant must be sprayed with a spray bottle, and then shade it.

For several weeks, watering should be done 3-5 times a day. This is necessary to ensure the desired humidity. Every week you need to spray a solution of potassium permanganate on the leaves to protect the plant from bacteria and fungi. It is best to cover the bottle to retain moisture.

Care

The plant requires quality care. Roots will appear on it after 2 months. After that, it is necessary to ventilate the plant, preferably in the evenings: remove the bottle from it for 1 hour.

Rooting of the plant occurs by autumn. If necessary, it can be transplanted to a place where there is a lot of light and fertile soil. You can improve the conditions by fertilizing the earth with compost, humus, wood ash.

seeds

This option is suitable for species specimens, since the cultivation of lilac seeds entails the loss of the characteristics of the variety. The method is suitable for obtaining a rootstock. This option attracts breeders with the possibility of obtaining new varieties.

First, the seeds are stratified for 2 months at a temperature of +2 ... +5 ° C, and then they are sown in the spring in a soil mixture - peat and sand (2: 1). The germination time for all varieties is different, for example, for common lilac - 13-16 days.

After the formation of 4 leaves, the seedling is picked at a distance of 3-4 cm. In May, they can be planted in open ground, and by the autumn they adapt. With the first frosts, seedlings should be covered with a layer of peat 8-10 cm thick for the winter.

Lilac cultivation can be done in other ways, for example, layering and budding. Each method has its own characteristics, but in all cases it is necessary to go through all the stages of preparation so that the plant is well accepted and grows healthy.

How to grow a lilac from a twig in a pot? The procedure is performed as described above, you only need to choose a container - it can be a plastic or ceramic pot. It is important to follow the sequence of actions, as in the classical landing, only then can you expect excellent results.

It is easier to grow in a greenhouse, as the greenhouse effect allows you to create ideal conditions. In addition, the humidity is quite suitable for the root system. On the winter period the plant must be covered with spruce branches. For several years, the bush should be loosened, weeded, be sure to add top dressing. Fertilizer can serve as compost and humus. Proper care ensures excellent growth and luxurious flowering.

All cultivars of lilac reproduce vegetatively: by shoots (own-root specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have grafting skills, and it is problematic for you to make layering, then the most suitable method for you is propagation by green cuttings.

Gardeners have an erroneous opinion that own-rooted lilac blooms worse. However, it is in no way inferior to the inflorescences grafted in size and beauty, and besides, it is more durable. There are plantings that, with proper care, do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years. Lilac belongs to plants that are difficult to root, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings! Semi-lignified cuttings do not root.

1. The most suitable time is the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when the young overgrown branches finish their growth.

2. It is desirable to cut the cuttings in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using twigs of medium thickness (in extreme cases, thin ones) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best to have 2-3 nodes on it and fairly short internodes.

3. Shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots are not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings. In lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings.

1. First, completely remove the leaves from the lower node.

2. Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which the leaves have been removed. For this, use a well-sharpened grafting knife or a special pruner to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internodes, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not take root.

3. Cut the remaining leaf blades in half

4. Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top node.

5. Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in a solution of the stimulant "Epin-extra" or "Zircon" for 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting lilac cuttings in a greenhouse.

Planting cuttings is best in a greenhouse or cuttings, located in partial shade. In extreme cases, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with cropped five-liter plastic bottles from drinking water.

1. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix peat with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. Not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting.

2. Fill the stalk with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. From above, cover with a layer of sand (preferably river sand) 5 cm thick. Pour the prepared place well with a fungicide solution ("Fundazol", "Vitaros", "Maxim"). This will protect the cuttings from damage by fungal diseases.

3. Lilac cuttings are difficult to root, so the use of root stimulants is necessary. Dip the cutting with the wet end into the Kornevin stimulator.

4. Make a small indentation in the damp sand and place the stalk there, completely deepening the lower knot. Make sure that the root stimulator powder does not crumble from it. Seal. The lower end of the handle should be completely in the sand and not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves lightly touch each other.

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle with water. In the water, you can add the solution of "Epin-extra" or "Zircon" remaining from soaking the cuttings.

Cover the stalk with two layers of polyethylene, placing a layer of thin or translucent fabric between them. You can use other methods of shading, for example, put a plastic mesh fruit box on top of polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow.

Make sure that the sand in the cutting does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they successfully root at 100% humidity. Spray once a week with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Caring for rooted cuttings.

If rooting happened late, then it is best to leave the cuttings for the winter in the cuttings. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, in early autumn they can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing.

In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but increases root system. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not scary. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

For growing young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add if necessary to reduce acidity, 300-400 g wood ash or 200 g of dolomite flour per 1 square meter and dig a shovel onto a bayonet. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young lilac roots are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water it so that the earth settles a little.

For the first winter, cover the seedlings with spruce branches or provide any other dry shelter. In the spring, with the onset of warm weather, remove the shelter. At good care(weeding, loosening, regular feeding) after two years, lilacs can be planted on permanent place. Lilac blooms after cuttings in the 4-5th year, but after 1-2 years of growing, you can plant it in a permanent place.

In our country, lilac is rightfully considered one of the most beloved ornamental shrubs. To date, there are more than 30 varieties of it in the world and more than 200 have been bred. different varieties. This article will consider the methods of propagation of lilacs, all possible nuances and features of each of the processes.

The main methods of reproduction

For the full development and growth of this shrub, as well as for a long and lush flowering requires a combination of several factors:

full lighting;
wind protection;
good drainage to prevent moisture stagnation.

Subject to these conditions, the plant will grow quickly enough, which will allow the grower to independently propagate his favorite varieties of lilacs in his area.

Lilac reproduces in the following ways:

Cuttings.
Growing from seed.
Root growth.
root cuttings.
Grafting.

Each of the above methods has its own advantages and difficulties, and in order to achieve a successful result, you must follow the requirements and rules.

Lilac cuttings

Growing a beautiful lilac from a twig is not too difficult and even an inexperienced amateur gardener can do it. There are two types of this method:

green cuttings;
woody shoots.

Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings

With this method, planting material is prepared either during flowering or immediately after, that is, lilac cuttings are carried out in the spring. Side shoots, branches from the central (main) branches are selected.

Lilac cuttings must be cut from shoots on which 4-6 leaves have formed, while each of the cuttings must be at least 15 cm long and have at least 3 pairs of buds. The lower cut is made obliquely, slightly below the last kidneys. For each prepared sprig of lilac, you need to remove 2 lower leaves. All leaves must be cut in half, as shown in the picture.

Next, all the tops of the cuttings are cut off, the cut should be straight. The lower end of the branch is treated with some kind of growth stimulant, for example, Kornevin. The stalk should be kept for several hours in a solution prepared according to the instructions for the preparation, or simply dipped in rooting powder to save time.

After cooking planting material you need to organize a bed for rooting lilacs. To do this, a small depression is dug at the landing site and drainage (sand or expanded clay) is laid with a layer of about 12 cm. Next, humus is placed and covered with earth, then the landing site must be carefully shed with water.

After that, the planting material is planted on the prepared bed, keeping the distance between plants and rows of at least 10 cm. After planting, it is necessary to arrange a greenhouse - install the frame and stretch the film. The height of the frame should not be less than 50 cm. An example can be seen in the picture below.

Optimal conditions for rooting, a combination of temperature of 20 - 25 degrees and humidity at the level of 90 - 95% is considered.

The greenhouse should be regularly ventilated, for which you need to slightly raise the edges of the film, avoiding a sharp temperature drop and cold drafts getting inside. After a month and a half, after the start of intensive root formation, the greenhouse can be removed. Further care summer is regular watering as the soil dries out and weeding. In autumn (September), the strongest seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place, and the weak ones should winter covered.

You can also root green lilac cuttings in flower pots or boxes at home. Preparation is carried out in the same way, the cuttings are planted as in the picture.

When harvesting planting material, one should take into account the fact that about half of the branches will take root and survive, so that initially 2 times more shoots need to be prepared for rooting. Thus, lilac propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring.

You can get acquainted with the opinion of a specialist on the topic of how to propagate lilac cuttings in the video below.

Reproduction by lignified shoots

Lilac propagation by cuttings can also be done by rooting already adult shoots, usually one-year-old branches. In this case, planting material is harvested from autumn or already at the end of winter. Branches should also not be shorter than 15 cm, have at least 3 pairs of buds. The shoots must either be dug into the sand and put away for the winter in a cold cellar, or simply buried in the snow until spring.

In the spring, planting lilacs with cuttings is carried out similarly to the previous method. When harvesting branches, it should be borne in mind that such shoots take root poorly, the survival rate will be at best 30%. If you plant a lilac from a twig in this way, then the seedlings will begin to bloom no earlier than in 5 years.

Growing method from seeds

Lilac seeds are usually collected in late autumn, after leaf fall, before the first frost. After harvesting, they must be dried until the valves are fully opened.

The next step is to stratify them. To do this, the seeds are mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 3 (for one part of the seeds, 3 parts of wet sand) and kept in a refrigerator or cellar for two months.

Seedlings are sown in March. The soil requires preliminary disinfection (steaming, treatment with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, etc.). Lilac seeds are deepened into the ground by several centimeters, after watering the container must be covered with a film, creating a mini-greenhouse.

seedlings common lilac appear after 2 weeks, and varietal - 2-3 months after sowing.

After the appearance of sprouts, the coating from the container must be removed. At the age of 2 weeks, seedlings should be dived into separate containers. Further care is regular watering (avoid waterlogging the soil).

You can also sow seeds directly into the ground, sowing dates - before winter, before frost, until the soil is frozen. In the spring, when the shoots get a little stronger and several true leaves appear on each, the seedlings are seated.

Growing lilac from seeds does not retain the characteristics of the variety, the result can be unpredictable. Usually this method is used when growing a stock for subsequent grafting of varietal lilacs.

Root growth

Reproduction of lilacs by young root shoots is the easiest and most natural way at the same time, because. lilac has the ability to independently form shoots from the mother bush. In this case, the transplant is carried out only once, immediately to a permanent place, and the seedling receives minimal injury.

The main advantage of this method is that young plant will have all the varietal characteristics of the parent.

You need to plant lilacs in the fall, before mid-October, no later. The procedure is best done on a cloudy day. Before separating a young plant, it is necessary to shed the soil well with water, the main root must be cut carefully, minimally injuring the fragile root system of the young bush, at a distance of at least 15-20 cm from the mother bush. After planting in a permanent place, it must be well watered and provide shelter for the winter.

Some experts advise to carry out this procedure in the summer, starting in July, to give the young plant time to take root and grow stronger after transplantation.

root cuttings

Lilacs can be propagated by layering. This breeding option can be done in 3 ways:

simple abduction;
Dalem method (vertical layering);
Chinese way (horizontal layering).

simple abduction

This breeding option for lilacs is very simple to perform. In the spring, strong branches at the age of 1 year must be bent to the ground and dug in, previously secured with a hairpin or bracket. During the growing season, it is necessary to moisten and add soil to the shoot in a timely manner in the place where it was dug.

This method requires a long time, since it will be possible to separate a young plant from the mother bush no earlier than 4 years after full rooting and the formation of its own root system.

Dahlem way

The breeding process of lilacs in this case will also be delayed for several seasons, since only preliminary preparation takes 2 years. It consists of the following steps:

choice of mother bush;
full pruning of branches in the fall for two seasons.

In the third year, as soon as the branches on the mother bush reach 20 cm in length, it is necessary to carry out the procedures in a certain sequence. Step by step it looks like this.

The very first kidneys, which are the most developed, are chosen, and an incision is made on the cortex under them. It is wrapped with wire in several turns, this is necessary in order to stimulate root formation. This is done with several of the strongest shoots, so as not to weaken the entire bush.
The shoots are dug in half, then the earth is sprinkled in the process of growing a young bush so that it is always half in the ground.
In autumn, layering should be dug up and transplanted for growing.

Chinese way

This method of lilac propagation is also called the horizontal layering method. It is also easiest to use by following the following sequence of steps.

In early spring, after the ground dries out a little, choose a strong bush at the age of 3-4 years. Furrows 2 cm deep are drawn around it.
Strong branches at the age of 1 year should be laid in furrows and fixed in several places.
Using copper wire, wrap each branch three times in front of the buds.
Cover the furrows with soil and water regularly.
After some time, new shoots will begin to grow from the ground, which, as they grow, must be covered with soil at half their height, before the onset of autumn.
During the season, add soil 3 times, as a result, the height of the embankment will be approximately 25 cm.
In September, young layers should be separated and grown over several years.

Lilac grafting

On the awakening kidney (carried out in early spring, from early March to early April).
On a dormant bud (budding), carried out from the first decade of July to the first decade of August.

Most often, lilac vaccination is carried out in the summer, since in early spring it is very difficult to catch the right moment. The procedure consists of several stages:

rootstock preparation;
scion preparation;
shield manufacturing;
budding procedure;
care after budding.

Rootstock preparation

The most optimal is the independent cultivation of the rootstock from seeds, because. Vaccinations on layering are less likely to end successfully. In preparation, you need to do the following:

in June, cut off the side branches, leaving shoots 10 - 14 cm;
a week before the procedure, you need to water the bush well for easier separation of the bark.

The root neck should be up to 1.5 cm in diameter.

Scion preparation

When preparing material for budding, the following conditions must be met:

the shoot for the scion must be at the age of 1 year;
the length of the grafting cutting should be from 20 to 30 cm, thickness up to 4 mm;
the shoot for the scion must be completely lignified, with large buds in the axils;
it must be cut off a week before the procedure;
after cutting, you need to remove the leaves, leaving the petioles;
before inoculation, store the inoculation material in a cool wet place(in the refrigerator, wrapped in a damp cloth or moss).

Shield manufacturing

The shield is a scion prepared for grafting. Prepare it as follows:

large buds must be removed from the shoot (recommended in the middle part of the cutting);
at a height of 0.7 mm above the kidney to be cut with a sharp knife, make a shallow incision at an acute angle, a little deeper under the kidney itself;
move the bark away from the edge of the cut, being careful not to damage the wood, otherwise the grafting will not work.

Budding procedure

The vaccination process consists of a certain sequence of actions.

Clean the rootstock site, wipe the grafting site with a damp cloth.
With a sharply sharpened knife blade, make an incision in the shape of the letter T from 2 to 3 cm long, its height above the ground should be at least 3 cm from the ground surface.
Lightly separate the bark at the incision points.
Carefully insert the shield into the incision in the center, under the bark on the rootstock.
Fix the vaccination site with a bandage of electrical tape or elastic bandage. The bandage is fixed on the entire surface of the graft, from top to bottom, but the kidney must remain open.
The rootstock must be sprinkled with soil, you can water it in a week.
After 3 weeks, you can evaluate the result of budding. If the corymb bud remains fresh, then the inoculation was a success. If the bud on the shield is dry, then budding has failed.

Before the onset of frost, the grafted stock is mulched with peat, the place of budding should be at a depth of at least 10 cm.

In the spring, from the second half of March to the beginning of April, peat should be removed, the bandage removed and the stem cut to a height of 5-7 cm above the kidney, leaving the so-called spike. The place of pruning must be treated with garden pitch. So that the young grafted shoot does not break, it is tied to a thorn. Starting from the third year, the grafted shoot can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Care after budding

Starting from the second year after grafting, you can begin to care for the grafted plant. You need to water it regularly, loosen the soil and cut off new growth. You can fertilize in the spring complex fertilizer in the amount of 20-30 g according to the instructions for use.

In conclusion, it can be noted that among several types of lilac propagation, each grower can choose the most interesting for him. A novice flower lover is able to grow his lilac from a cutting, and an experienced one can bud on a grown one. with my own hands from rootstock seeds.

Lilac care in autumn: pruning, top dressing, preparation for winter, how to fertilize, propagation by cuttings

Lilac cuttings are one of the most common ways to propagate a bush. Nonetheless, It requires compliance with several rules at once:

First of all, it must be taken into account that the rooting period of the cutting is quite long - at least 5 weeks. Therefore, selection occurs at the end of flowering or immediately after it. Lignified and even semi-lignified cuttings will not work - they do not take root. Therefore, you need to take only green layers, and it is from young branches. It is better to cut branches with 2-3 nodes. The best option- those layers that extend from the middle parts of the main branch. All leaves are removed from the lower node. Then a cut is made at an acute angle. It should come as close as possible to the place where the leaves were cut. At the same time, it is not worth cutting along the knot itself - such cuttings do not take root. All other leaves must be cut exactly in half. The upper knot is completely cut off along with the leaves - a regular cut is made perpendicular to the cutting. Next, the cuttings should be immediately placed in a solution of a root formation stimulator and left overnight. Then the shoot is completely washed under running water and landed in a semi-shaded place - either in a greenhouse or on ordinary soil, but in this case, the cuttings should be covered with 5-liter cut bottles. For the landing hole, a mixture of sand and peat is selected, taken in equal mass quantities. A hole is dug into the depth of no more than 20 cm. A cutting is planted, covered with a mixture. A 5-centimeter layer of sand is poured over the top. The hole is treated with a solution of any fungicide and watered thoroughly after a few hours. Further, the entire stalk is closed with polyethylene (or you can close each shoot with a bottle). Subsequently, you need to ensure that the sand always remains saturated with moisture, and also spray the shoots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate once every 7 days. It is also necessary to constantly ventilate the stalk, and it can be completely opened after 6 weeks - then almost all shoots should form roots.

How lilac breeds (video)

NOTE

Cuttings can be left for the winter, but if they have taken root by the beginning of autumn, they should be transplanted to a separate bed for growing. Compost or humus is added to the soil. If the soil is acidic, it is better to add ash or dolomite flour at the rate of 200-300 g per 1 m2. You can transplant to the main place in the spring.

Thus, the lilac needs basic care at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn. If you make some effort this season, the bush will delight with its fragrant, beautiful flowers all next summer.

How to propagate shrubs with cuttings

Watering

In order for as many cuttings to take root as possible, you need to water often a little, so that the earth is always wet, but do not flood! A greenhouse in this case is ideal, especially for hard-to-root plants. It can create high humidity, which helps to form roots easier and faster. When the first shoots and leaves appear on the branches, this means that they successfully grow roots. Most likely, not all branches will please you good growth(some of it will dry out). During this period, watering is reduced, watered only to prevent the soil from drying out.

Summer cuttings

If you did not have time to prepare the cuttings early in the spring or in the summer you saw some kind of interesting variety, you can try rooting a few branches. To do this, you need to carefully cut off the leaves and flower brushes from them, cut the cuttings, immediately split the tips of the branches stronger - “swirl” and put them in water for a couple of days with the addition of “root”. Then we do everything as with ordinary cuttings (we tirelessly monitor the humidity!). In this case, it is even more difficult to achieve the growth of cuttings, but it is possible. It all depends on your desire and perseverance.

In autumn, bushes grow from our cuttings. We choose the best of them and transplant them to a permanent place. Weak and fragile leaves for the second year for growing.

Video about propagation of shrubs by cuttings

Propagation of lilacs by cuttings step-by-step master class with a photo

Reproduction of lilac cuttings: step by step master class with photo

Lilac ornamental varieties propagated by shoots, layering, grafting and cuttings. To plant a lilac, you need to have some skills, and it is convenient to propagate a bush that is already growing in the country with shoots and layering. If you want to bring a plant from another place, it is best to resort to cuttings. Using this method, you can root lilacs even from a bouquet. Provided that it was cut no later than one day ago.

In addition, keep in mind that lilac is a difficult-to-root plant. Therefore, for successful reproduction, it is important to observe certain Terms:

Do not miss the right time for harvesting cuttings.

Use suitable cuttings.

Withstand temperature and humidity

Optimum temperature

Reproduction of varietal lilac

Not all methods transmit the genetic code in the same way. Therefore, for the reproduction of varietal bushes, a limited number of them are used.

Can be propagated:

vaccination; root growth; layering; green (not lignified) cuttings; merisystem way.

Cannot reproduce:

seeds.

Comparison of breeding methods for varietal lilacs

For each, there are positives and negatives.

Own-rooted lilac is healthier - it has high winter hardiness, large growth, shoots inherit signs. A significant drawback is that the flowering time comes three or even four years later than the grafted one.

The grafted syringa blooms earlier. It can be formed from clearstem tree. Reception is common in modern landscape design. Alas, she lives much less than her own root. More stable is considered to be grafting on a wild one. With proper care, a shrub with other rootstocks can become a long-liver.

Lilac, grown merisystemically, is also rooted. It conveys the characteristics of the variety better, suffers less from viral and other diseases, and more easily tolerates complex climatic conditions. A seedling obtained by the merisystem method gives a small increase in the first years. Blooms no earlier than the fifth year.

Methodology

Easiest to seat root growth. It is a little more difficult and longer to make layering. The most popular way is green cuttings, which is not suitable for all varieties. The grafting process is difficult for the gardener and requires good skill and experience. A special tool must also be available. It is impossible to propagate lilac merisystemically outside the laboratory conditions.

Now more about how to propagate lilacs.

Grafting

All varieties are propagated by grafting. The rootstock for grafting are wild seedlings, privet, Hungarian lilac.

In grafted plants, shoots in trunk circle and near the root collar it is unsorted, wild, so it is completely removed with pruners - “on the ring”.

For scion, take annual twigs of syringa. They are prepared in advance and stored until grafting in a damp, cold and dark place.

There are such ways:

budding; copulation; grafting into the side cut; split grafting; for the bark.

Root growth

The separation of the root shoots is best done in the fall. The desired specimen is cut off from the main root with the maximum preservation of its own fibrous root system. In the future, planting and caring for the separated plant is carried out as for ordinary seedlings.

layering

For propagation of varieties by layering, own-rooted uterine bushes are mainly used. The process takes several years.

1-2 year. To prepare for winter in the first and second year, the shrub intended for propagation by layering is cut to the very root collar.

3 years old By autumn, many young shoots will appear on the bush.

4 year. In the spring, the grown annual shoots are bent to the ground, fixed with hooks driven into the ground and sprinkled with soil. Throughout the season, you need to ensure that the soil near the layers is sufficiently moist. In the autumn of the fourth year, rooted layers are separated from the branches of the mother bush.

Less commonly, grafted lilacs are transferred to their own roots by layering if the vaccine is not very high above the ground. The plant is planted obliquely. In the spring, shoots that are higher than the graft are attracted to the ground. Use special wire and pins. The plant is spudded throughout the growing season and watered. In autumn, roots will appear above the constriction, and the layers can be cut off from the bush.

With this method, you can get the largest number seedlings from a single shrub in a short time.

Propagation of lilac cuttings in spring

This method can propagate some varieties in one season. The process includes the following steps:

vegetative propagation

Let's take a closer look at the main points.

How to choose shoots for cuttings and prepare for cutting

The older the bush-mother liquor, the worse the rooting occurs. The plant should be at least 4-5 years old, but not older than 10-15.

Large green shoots, they are also called fat, practically do not take root. Vertical strong - also not very suitable. Best Ability to the formation of roots in medium-sized green branches growing sideways.

To increase the rooting of cuttings, gardeners use various tricks. In particular, "etiolation" is used. 3 weeks before grafting, dark-colored insulating tape is wrapped around young shoots that are not very tight from below under the internode. In essence, etiolation is the isolation of part of the branch from light. After some time, the areas of the bark under the insulation will become whitish, this is where the cut should be made, and after about 10 weeks, roots will develop in this place.

Pruning time is evening, morning is possible if the day promises to be cloudy. Then the branch will spend less moisture on its most difficult first day.

Rules for cutting green cuttings

Cuttings are carried out during the flowering period or immediately after it. Selected shoots are cut with a clean, sharp knife. The top of the shoot is cut off, two or three internodes are counted, and the lower part is cut off. Important! The bottom cut should be oblique and pass immediately under the third knot, but without touching it.

On the shoots, all leaves are cut to half and packed in a film in thin layers until planting. You don't need to put it in water.

Pre-planting treatment

Twigs take root very hard. Therefore, before planting, they must be treated with root formation stimulants (indolylbutyric acid, heteroauxin, zircon). The preparations are diluted with water or alcohol according to the instructions. If alcohol dilution was used, the shoots are dipped into the solution for 5 seconds and planted in the ground; if water dilution is used, they are kept up to 18 hours, dipped to a depth of 1 cm.

Soil preparation

Most often rooted in sand or a mixture of sand and perlite. But in order to achieve the highest percentage of rooting, it is better to use the following composition: part of large perlite, part of high-moor peat, two parts of low-lying peat.

Drainage layer of washed sand and expanded clay - 15 cm, then 20 leaf humus or rotted manure, and on top from five to eight centimeters of rooting mixture.

Landing

The finished soil is compacted and watered. The cuttings are deepened, immersing the first internode into the ground completely. It is under it that the system of fibrous roots will develop. Between the rows we leave a distance of 10 cm, and between the shoots - 5 cm. Water again.

The temperature should not be very high. If it is hot outside, the greenhouse is shaded and ventilated.

The most important condition for good survival is high humidity, perfect - 100%. For rooting in industrial scale in greenhouses, a special fogging machine is installed.

The first roots may appear no earlier than in a month and a half.

Remember to periodically remove fallen or spoiled leaves to prevent fungal infections.

You can talk about the percentage of rooting only in the fall. Then they can be seated for growing in the garden-school. Do not forget to cover the resulting seedlings for the winter to prevent the still tender shoots from freezing. If in doubt, it is better to transplant rooted cuttings next spring, as usual, before the start of sap flow.

Merisystem method

Modern science allows you to get plants by growing tissues in the laboratory - this is a "merisystem" method of reproduction.
The technique consists in growing cells of a varietal shoot on a nutrient medium. Plants obtained by this vegetative method acquire all parental characteristics.

Reproduction of lilac cuttings, layering and seeds

With the advent of spring, another cycle in the development of plants begins, many of which bloom, filling the air with a wonderful aroma and pleasing the eye with a riot of colors. The month of May is the apogee in the extravaganza of spring: it is at this time that lilacs bloom, declaring that spring has fully come into its own, and prophesying with its flowering about the imminent onset of summer.

Parks, squares and other places of public recreation at this time are in power blooming lilac, because it is capable of transforming even the most dull landscape beyond recognition. This is why culture is highly valued by landscape designers.

Every year the need for high-quality lilac planting material increases. Its wild varieties are quite decorative, but their magnificence cannot be compared with the charm of varietal lilac, the color palette of which is diverse.

Seed propagation of lilac

Varietal lilac breeds mainly vegetative ways, of which the methods of layering and green cuttings are most widely used. No less common is the method of vaccination garden forms on rootstocks of common lilac or privet (less commonly used). For this purpose, it is necessary to grow a rootstock from seeds.

They start harvesting seeds in late August - early September in order to have a supply for stratification within one and a half to two months. Stratified seeds are sown to a depth of 2 cm, after which the crops are mulched with humus. The rate of consumption of seeds per 1 running. meter - 2 grams (this amount is enough to get more than 200 seedlings).

After 2 years of cultivation, the seedlings are suitable for grafting by budding.

Growing lilacs from cuttings

Grafted lilac has the advantage of adapting to growing conditions, but also has a significant disadvantage - the need for regular removal of root shoots. In terms of labor costs for maintenance, growing own-rooted lilacs is more attractive, in addition, life cycle of such plants is longer (up to 25 years or more).

Reproduction of lilacs from layering is considered the most promising method, since it ensures the production of conditioned planting material in one year. Important condition- the mother plant must be own-rooted, that is, not grafted.

vaccinated varietal lilac can also be "translated to one's own roots". To do this, it is necessary to plant the plant obliquely, make the constriction of the stem of the young shoot above the grafting site (copper wire can be used), and then spud the plant to a height of up to 30 cm. During the summer, the plants will need to spud several more times. By autumn, roots should form above the constriction, after which the layer is cut off from the mother plant. For a season, up to 100 seedlings can be obtained from one bush using this method.

Reproduction by horizontal layering is somewhat different from the vertical (“Dahlem method”), but there is much in common between them, namely, the obligatory constriction at the base (!). Shoots are placed in prepared grooves and covered with soil. As the vertical shoots grow, they are spud several times. In autumn, up to 10 seedlings are obtained from each shoot.

Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings

"Green cuttings" is considered the most time-consuming method, since successful rooting requires a number of preparatory operations, as well as strictly observing the temperature and humidity regime. In addition, rooted cuttings require mandatory rearing before planting in a permanent place.

Propagation by green cuttings has advantages in terms of efficiency (multiplication rate), so this technique is mainly used in industrial cultivation lilacs. If desired, every gardener can successfully master the technique of rooting green cuttings.

It is advisable to start harvesting cuttings during the period of mass flowering of lilacs (at the beginning), when the bark begins to harden. The cutting is carried out in such a way that there are 2 buds (1 internode) on the handle. The lower cut is half a centimeter away from the kidney, the upper one is 1 cm above the kidney. bottom sheet shortened by 1/3, and the top is cut in half. Planted cuttings to a depth of 1 cm.

Pre-planting treatment of lilac cuttings in solutions of growth regulators stimulates the development of the root system. For this purpose, indolylbutyric acid (50 - 100 mg / l) and heteroauxin (150 - 200 mg / l) are most often used. Exposure time - 12 - 16 hours; immersion depth - 1 cm.

Rooting at home can be carried out using micro-greenhouses (closable containers with a lid made of translucent material). Stacked in a container nutrient soil(10 cm) and coarse sand (3 cm).

The optimum temperature for rooting is 25 - 28 ° C, relative humidity in the range of 80 - 90%. To maintain moisture, lilac cuttings are sprayed daily with water from a spray bottle.

Root formation begins in a month, and in the fall, the cuttings are transplanted into open ground for growing, taking care of providing protection from freezing.

autumn next year get well-developed seedlings.