Inspection hole from. How to make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands. Self-installation of drainage

The love of cars is in men's blood. Whatever his financial situation, it is a matter of honor to look under the hood in the evening. You can change oil, spark plugs and other minor repairs yourself, without asking for help. service center. To solve more serious problems, an inspection hole is needed. It will not be difficult to build it; it is only important to organize the process correctly and calculate the dimensions.

An unpleasant moment that can be prevented

In addition to the obvious advantages, which there is no point in listing, an inspection hole can cause harm to your car. In lowlands, the humidity is excessively high, and if the car is constantly standing over an uncovered pit, this can cause corrosion of the bottom. The problem of high humidity and condensation occurs everywhere, and this does not depend in any way on the size of the inspection hole in the garage.

This problem can be solved with the help of high-quality waterproofing, which must be taken care of during the construction process. Initially, it is necessary to find out the level of groundwater. If it does not exceed a depth of 2.5 meters, then you will have to equip it, which will drain water into a specially designed well. When pouring walls, be sure to add a waterproofing compound to the concrete, which will prevent the formation of condensation. It is also possible to insulate the outside of the walls with a waterproofing membrane, but this must be done at the stage of installing the formwork.

inspection pit drawing
diagram of an inspection pit with niches

How to calculate the size of an inspection hole in a garage

The determining criterion when determining the size of the inspection hole is the car, or rather its dimensions. But what if you change cars often? Don't redo the hole after each new purchase? Of course not, you just need to immediately calculate the optimal width. It directly depends on the size of the car’s wheelbase and the size of the owner himself. A width of 70-80 cm is as close as possible to the universal value. With depth, things are even simpler. Here everything depends on the height of the owner, and he should be able to reach the bottom without any problems. It is also worth paying attention to the comfort of the position, because if you have to stretch out or, conversely, bend down while in a hole, you will not be able to work productively. To make it easier to calculate, add 10-15 cm to your height and you will get the optimal depth. These dimensions of the inspection pit in the garage are basic, but small changes can be made to them.

plan of an inspection pit with niches for tools
pit pit

Construction of an inspection pit

The process of constructing an inspection pit will not take a long time, but will turn out to be very labor-intensive. First of all, this concerns earthworks, that is, digging a pit. It is calculated taking into account the depth of the pit itself, the thickness of the floor, walls and waterproofing. You will have to add another 50 cm to the width, which will go to the walls.

waterproofing, formwork and reinforcement
vibrating concrete pouring

Now that the pit is dug, let's move on to the floor. It is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of crushed stone onto the bottom and compact it well. Pour half as much sand on top of it and compact it as well. This “pie” needs to be covered with a waterproofing film, on which the reinforcing frame will then be placed. Everything is ready, you can safely pour the concrete. At the stage of its preparation you need to add special remedy, which will give the dried floor waterproofing properties. The solution is poured into the formwork in a layer of 10 cm, leveled, and left until completely dry. As a rule, under favorable weather conditions, this takes about 3 days.

After the floor was completely dry, it was the turn of the walls. For them, formwork is also constructed, laid waterproofing membrane and a reinforcing frame is installed, which will add strength to the walls. At this stage, you can adjust the thickness of the walls to the finished dimensions of the inspection pit in the garage.

It is carried out along the dried walls finishing. They can be plastered, finished with tiles or gypsum fiber boards. A frame welded from metal corners is installed on the edges of the pit and secured. Subsequently, it will serve as a support for boards or other panels covering the pit. They can be covered with film, which will serve as additional protection against condensation.

In a garage, an inspection hole becomes simply irreplaceable. With it, you can regularly carry out almost professional technical inspections, make scheduled replacement of parts, as well as repairs, if necessary. Of course, if a car enthusiast devotes enough time to his car, repairs and inspects it himself, he simply needs to arrange the premises accordingly. Today we will learn how a building can be built with bricks. Let's determine all the most important stages, useful tips, let’s find out what algorithm to use to build the pit. In addition, we will consider a specific algorithm for constructing a brick inspection pit.

First of all, you will need to carry out comprehensive preparatory work. Now we will highlight all the most important points.

Groundwater

One risk factor is of great importance - the level of groundwater rise. The final success of the construction of the inspection pit largely depends on this. In some cases, it is necessary to abandon the construction of such a pit or cellar. You need to be prepared in advance for the fact that the water level will be critical.

Unfortunately, in some settlements there are no specialized geological services at all, where relevant surveys are carried out. But you can independently determine the level of groundwater rise with fairly high accuracy. This is done as follows. You need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep. Watch to what level the water rises. When the worst forecasts are confirmed, that is, the waters lie too close to ground level, it is better to abandon the construction of a viewing hole. Of course, purely theoretically, it is possible to ensure waterproofing even in such a situation, but then the pit will resemble more of a bunker, great effort and investment in construction will be required, and the danger of flooding will still remain.

Another option that will help cope with the natural risk factor is to arrange drainage. It happens that a car enthusiast works on his car professionally, he needs an inspection hole, but there is no opportunity to choose another area. In this case, high-quality drainage of groundwater should be done. A special drainage well is dug outside the garage, where the water is drained. But such work is labor-intensive and requires significant investments.

We correctly determine the dimensions of the inspection hole

It is very important to immediately accurately determine the optimal parameters of the inspection hole. It shouldn’t be too big, but it’s also inconvenient to work in tight spaces. Everything must be selected correctly, of course, in accordance with the dimensions of the car.

Let us dwell on the methods for determining key parameters.

Pit length. Consider the vehicle parameters. Typically, the standard length of an inspection pit for a passenger car is approximately 4-5 meters. To arrange a convenient descent with an extension or monolithic ladder, you need to add another meter. This good parameters, which are focused on comfortable, rational use of the inspection pit. You will no longer need to regularly move the car during repair work, as happens if the hole is too small or short.
Width. Here the distance between the wheels of the car plays a key role for you. Standard parameter for modern passenger cars- a hole with a width of 75-80 cm. This width will be quite enough, but it is not too large.
Depth. Everything here is strictly individual. Of course, they work standing in the inspection pit. Some people dig shallow holes so as not to provoke pressure and groundwater flow, but it is inconvenient to work while sitting on a stool. It is better to make a good deep inspection hole. Approximately 15 cm is added to the height of the car enthusiast. When any doubts arise regarding the depth (for example, when several people of different heights are planned to work in the pit), of course, it is better to make it larger. After all, if necessary, you can simply make a small platform under your feet.

When the parameters are determined, you need to make a drawing and write down all the exact dimensions on it. Then this diagram is transferred to the construction site, digging a pit.

Construction methods

The construction process will largely depend on the method of arranging the inspection pit. The best option is to lay the foundation right away, even at the construction stage. strip foundation and garage basement. In this case, the pit is also dug by an excavator. At the same time, work is underway to waterproof, ventilate and insulate the pit and the garage space as a whole.

But quite often you have to do construction after the garage box has been erected. Of course, then you have to dig the pit manually.

Please note one important point. You will need soil from the development so that you can then fill the sinuses with it, as well as raise the floor level in the room. The fact is that the garage floor is made at a level higher than the road on which the car drives.

Building a viewing hole

It's time to take a closer look at how to build a brick inspection pit with your own hands. Let's start by clarifying some points.

Determining the size of the pit

We have already talked about the parameters of the inspection hole. But it is important to remember: the pit must be larger than the pit! Please note the following:

You will have to lay out a leveling layer, which will consist of gravel, crushed stone and sand. The standard thickness of such a layer is 50-100 mm. This must be added to the depth.

The bottom is made of concrete with grade 150-200, the thickness of which is approximately 100 mm. This is also reflected in the depth of the pit.

The width and length also increase as the thickness brick walls is 250 mm when construction is carried out in one brick. In addition, a gap of approximately 30-40 mm must be left between the masonry and the wall of the pit, in order to then waterproof the outside and compact it with soil.

Work algorithm

You will need crushed stone, concrete grade 200, cement, gravel and sand, as well as waterproofing sheet materials (izolon), plaster, brushes with shovels, level, stepladder, metal corner, boards, polystyrene foam for insulation, metal pipes and grilles for ventilation devices.

Let's move on to step-by-step instructions.

First of all, all the markings from the drawing are transferred to the garage floor in the place where you decided to make an inspection hole.
Then you need to dig a pit. The bottom is thoroughly cleaned, after which the floor in the pit is arranged. While working, it is better to go down into the pit using a ladder.
After leveling the floor, horizontal waterproofing of the bottom is installed. Use rolled materials, for example, the well-known isolon. The material is popular and proven. You can take roofing material, or, in extreme cases, thick plastic film.
Be sure to extend the edges of the waterproofing material 50 cm beyond the bottom of the pit. Then they are wrapped and attached to the outer surface of the brickwork.
An important stage is concreting the bottom. Here you need to immediately take into account the dimensions of the concrete base. If the pit is planned to be 75 cm wide, add the thickness of the brickwork (50 cm around the perimeter), and also make a reserve of 5-10 cm. As a result, the width is 140 cm. The width of the concrete base is calculated using the same scheme.
Reinforcement is optional, although for greater reliability and durability it is better to lay reinforcement metal mesh. If you took the M-200 concrete mixture, and the thickness of the concrete bottom is more than 80 cm, it is quite acceptable to do without reinforcement.
Then the time comes when it is necessary to allow the concrete to harden. This will take at least 3 days.
Now it's time to start laying the brick walls of the inspection pit. Make arrangements carefully, use a level to ensure that the masonry is adjusted horizontally. There are enough walls of one brick here. Don't forget that you need to leave a gap between the walls of the pit and the masonry.
Carefully plaster the walls on both sides. A good solution is to plaster the masonry in parallel with the construction of the walls. So, having laid out 4 rows, you need to cover them with a layer of plaster on the outside and inside.
Please pay attention more attention exterior wall decoration. Quality is needed coating waterproofing. Use bitumen mastic, hot bitumen. Such waterproofing must be carried out in two layers. This cannot be avoided, since this is the measure that will prevent the appearance of dampness in the inspection hole. Otherwise, the walls will draw moisture from the ground.
When the masonry is completely completed, the external waterproofing is done, it’s time to fill the existing sinuses. Here you will need the soil left over from digging the pit. It is poured 15 cm deep, thoroughly compacted, then the next layer is made. This layer-by-layer compaction is also very important. The best solution is to add clay to the soil. The compacted clay layer will become a reliable additional barrier to moisture penetration, as well as a monolithic support for the masonry.

If you want to provide lighting into the inspection hole, immediately provide niches in the masonry for lighting fixtures. It is also worth making an additional large niche to store the most popular tool, wrenches.

Setting up a viewing hole

It is important to conduct a sufficiently extensive extra work to completely equip the inspection hole in the garage.

Niches

They are useful for lighting fixtures and tools. They need to be provided for during the laying of brick walls. Optimal sizes for a standard niche are as follows: depth 12 cm, height 25-30 cm, and length approximately 50-75 cm.

Water collection

The pit is very useful thing in the inspection hole. After all, even with impeccable waterproofing, you will need to somehow get rid of moisture that can be carried on the wheels or drip from the car. The best option is to make a liquid collector at the bottom of the inspection hole. To do this, to one corner it is done minimum slope. A small depression is dug there. It is also cemented so that the edges do not collapse. Since you can accidentally step on it, the pit is covered with a strong grate.

Ventilation

It is advisable to make forced or natural ventilation in the inspection pit. Use metal pipes small fan. Ventilation will help quickly remove all harmful fumes from the pit, as well as prevent the formation of condensation. And being in such a space is much more comfortable and safer.

Strengthening the edges of the pit

The edges of the pit must be well reinforced. Be sure to do this so that the hole does not crumble and can withstand the pressure of the car wheels. You will need a metal corner No. 45-50. A framing frame is welded from it around the entire perimeter of the inspection hole. In order for the frame to be securely fixed, anchor outlets with a diameter of 6-10 mm must be welded to the outer sides. They should be located every 25 cm. When the garage floor is additionally concreted, they go into the concrete base.

Closing the pit

To protect the pit from all external influences, it is advisable to close it for those periods when it is not in use. It is worth considering this point already at the stage of welding the corners for the frame. Weld them so that the boards fit comfortably into it along the narrow side.

Wheel limiters

Consider the moment the car enters the area above the inspection hole. To prevent the wheels from even accidentally getting into it, it is necessary to specially install limiters for them. To do this, take metal profile: corner, channel or pipes. The metal frame should rise above the floor, protecting the pit from the entry of a car.

Insulation

A good solution is to insulate the inspection hole. For this purpose, sheets of expanded polystyrene are suitable, which can simply be glued to brick walls.

Lighting

Also take care of lighting the pit space. Install lamps in pre-prepared niches and run cables through plastic channels. Lighting will ensure comfortable work at any time.

Step-by-step instructions with photos from the garage man

Instructions with step-by-step photos allow you to get a clear idea of the process of building a brick inspection pit with your own hands.

At first it was easy to work: sand was being dug.
Then the clay came in, so it became more difficult to dig.
I made a waterproofing box from isoplast. Temporarily laid down boards for fixation.
I laid the reinforcing mesh.
I started laying brick walls.
I made niches on the sides.
Recesses different sizes: for tools, for lamps.
The niches were also decorated with metal frames.
The niche for the lamp is small.
I took one part of concrete, two parts each of cement and crushed stone. Made a concrete pour.
Concrete was poured carefully: inside the floor, outside, around the hole to further strengthen it.
Carefully plastered the walls.
I made a socket in my pocket for a portable lamp.
I ran the cable.
I inserted a lamp into the niche.
This is what the finished pit looks like with lighting.

Video: learning to make a viewing hole

You will be able to better understand all the intricacies of building an inspection hole in the garage if you look next material on video. You can make a hole with your own hands. The main thing is to remember everything important tips, operating algorithm. A complete picture will be obtained after watching the following video: it explains in detail and is shown on specific example How to build a viewing hole in a garage.

Be careful, act carefully.

To make it easier for a good owner to carry out preventive maintenance and repairs, the garage is usually equipped with an inspection hole. This is not surprising - the mentality of most of our men is such that almost every car enthusiast prefers to monitor the condition of the car himself, and, if necessary, to repair it. Having invested in such arrangement of the garage once, in the future you can save a decent amount on service maintenance by carrying out such simple but necessary procedures as changing the oil or coating the bottom anti-corrosion composition, as well as a number of other works related to the underbody or suspension of the car, you can do it yourself.

However, it must immediately be noted that optimal location An inspection pit is considered to be a place under a canopy next to the garage, or in the garage, but next to the area intended for parking the car, since wet vapors accumulating between the bottom of the car and the bottom of the pit often contribute to the activation of corrosion processes. But, as you know, most often space in the garage is limited, so the inspection hole is installed in the middle part of the room. Based on this circumstance, we will further consider how an inspection hole can be made in a garage with your own hands with the arrangement reliable waterproofing, ventilation and using various materials for the construction of walls.

When and how to plan the construction of an inspection pit?

The best option would be to build a pit before the construction of the garage walls begins, in the place planned for it, in parallel with the creation of the foundation and floor. It is clear that in a ready-made building you may encounter a number of restrictions that significantly complicate the work.

For example, the same pit laid in an open space can be dug quickly and accurately using special equipment. In a finished garage, you will have to dig it exclusively by hand, and this work is quite labor-intensive, since you will have to not only loosen it, but also remove several cubes of soil from a fairly large depth, and then also organize its removal from the garage and further removal from the territory.

When planning to dig a pit, it is recommended to obtain information in advance about the location of groundwater at the construction site in order to protect the building from its penetration into the pit, otherwise it will become unsuitable for work, and over time it will begin to collapse. In this case, you will have to “save” the garage, bring soil and dig a hole. Therefore, it is best to think through all the nuances of its arrangement in advance and obtain all the information necessary for this, otherwise the work may be done in vain.

Materials for constructing a pit

To build a viewing hole, you will need quite a lot of different materials, which need to be purchased with a small supply. Typically, professional builders advise increasing their number by 10÷15%.

So, to create a full-fledged inspection hole, you may need the following materials:

Sand, gravel or crushed stone. Sand and gravel are necessary for masonry or filler mortar, and to create a cushion at the bottom of the pit, in addition to these materials, crushed stone will be required. Cement is required for mixing all types of mortars.
with a cross section of 30×30 or 40×40 mm, 25 mm boards or plywood 10÷15 mm thick - for the manufacture of formwork, and well-processed boards 40÷45 mm thick - for the pit cover.
Reinforcing rod with a diameter of 6÷8 mm for knitting a reinforcing grid when strengthening walls and floors.
Waterproofing materials – thick polyethylene film, roofing felt and mastic. More can be used for waterproofing modern materials, but they have a higher price.
Metal corner measuring 50x50 mm to secure the perimeter of the pit at floor level. Often a corner is also used to make a wheel guard.
Steel wire with a cross-section of 1.5÷2 mm - for twisting the reinforcing mesh.
Plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 mm - for arranging the ventilation system of the pit.
Brick or foam blocks, if you plan to build pit walls from them.

Determining the dimensions of the inspection hole

Work on planning and arranging an inspection pit usually begins with determining its dimensions. It is recommended to immediately record all parameters for further drawing up a project in which it is necessary to show the location of the hole in the garage, its width, length and depth. These values primarily depend on the base of the car, that is, the distance between the wheels along the length and width of the car, as well as on the height of the garage owner. Correct determination of these parameters is important for ensuring safety, comfortable work, and ease of parking the car in the garage.

The width of the pit should be 300÷350 mm larger than the intended size of the inspection hole, and its finished width should be 200 mm less than the distance between the wheels of the car on the same axle (with the measurement between the inner surfaces of the tires). At the same time, the pit should be comfortable for a person to be inside. When planning an inspection hole, you should not take the exact dimensions between the wheels of a particular passenger car, since you may want to replace it with a new one over time. Therefore, it is recommended to take the average distance for various options car.

The generally accepted, most convenient pit parameter is a width of 800÷850 mm.

The length of the pit can be different, and this depends on the wishes of the car owner, taking into account, of course, the length of the garage space. The standard length of the pit should be equal to the length of the car plus 1000 mm, but in some cases it is necessary to make it smaller. Therefore, this parameter can vary from 2000 to 6000 mm.

When making calculations, you also need to take into account the space for descending into the pit when the car is parked in the garage. The descent must be equipped with an extension or step ladder. Usually a ladder is chosen as it takes up significantly less space.

copper cable

The depth of the hole is determined by the height of the garage owner. It should be such that a person, standing at the bottom, can freely reach any mechanism of the car that goes to its lower part and requires maintenance or repair.

It should be noted that it will be better if the pit is dug a little deeper than required, since the required depth can be compensated by raising the floor, increasing its thickness. Usually the depth of the pit is equal to the height of the owner plus 100÷200 mm and is approximately 1800÷1900 mm.

In addition to the above parameters, when digging a pit, you need to take into account the distance for waterproofing, laying or filling the walls, as well as for backfilling clay around the inspection hole, a layer of which will become an additional waterproofing. If the walls are laid out of brick or filled with concrete, then the pit should be increased in width in each direction by 120÷150 mm, for gas silicate blocks by 200 mm, for arranging a concrete floor the depth should be increased by 200 mm. If a drainage or waterproofing layer is installed around the pit, the pit will increase in width by another 150÷170 mm.

As mentioned above, it is necessary to obtain information about the depth of groundwater. These data must be indicated in the report, which is given after surveying the site before constructing the garage.

The level of groundwater plays an important role in the construction of any building, be it a residential building or a garage. If it extends higher than 2500 mm, then it will be difficult to dig an inspection hole in the garage or make a cellar under the house, since they will fill with water, even if high-quality waterproofing is done.

In some cases, there is a way out - to avoid this unpleasant situation, along the perimeter of the entire pit to the height of its walls and under drainage system, which will help drain water into the sewer well.

Provided the groundwater is located below the level indicated above, there are no restrictions on the construction of an inspection pit.

Almost always, when installing a viewing hole, garage owners prefer to make niches in its walls, placing them in the upper or middle part of the side walls.

The depth and width of such “windows” must be calculated in such a way that it is convenient to put a tool in them during work, from small to fairly large. These niches must also be calculated and included in the construction plan.

Work on creating an inspection hole in the garage yourself

Marking the inspection hole and digging a pit

The marking of the inspection pit is carried out in different ways, since it can be installed in a ready-made garage or before its construction.

Illustration
	It is easier to mark the location of the inspection hole in an already built room with a finished floor, but it will be more difficult to equip it. If you plan to make an inspection hole in an already built garage in which the floor is covered concrete screed, then marking is quite simple - measure the required distance from the walls, make marks and draw the outline of the future pit. But here it is necessary to take into account that the distance between the walls of the future pit and the garage must be at least 1000 mm.
	When the marking is completed, the most difficult stages of the work will begin. If the garage floor is wooden, then removing the covering is naturally easier: following the markings, the boards are simply cut out and removed. It is much more difficult to get rid of a well-made screed, since it will need to be removed down to the ground. To do this you will need a jackhammer or at least a hammer drill and a grinder with a metal disc. First, the concrete is broken according to the markings, and then the rods of the reinforcing structure are cut out with a “grinder”.
	In any case, the foundation pit for the inspection hole in the finished garage will have to be dug manually, since no digging equipment will be able to get into the room. This stage of work can be called the most labor-intensive, since it usually standard size the pit is 1800x1100x6000 mm, which is almost 12 cubic meters of land. It is quite difficult to extract such a volume of soil alone, so it is best to have two or three assistants.
	The duration of this stage of excavation will depend on the activity of workers and the composition of the soil. For work, you will need bayonet and shovel shovels, buckets for lifting soil from the depths, and a wheelbarrow for removing it from the territory of the constructed or future garage. It should be noted that for difficult clay or rocky soils, a pick or crowbar may also be required.
	When determining the place where the soil will be transported, it is necessary to take into account that in a loosened state it will occupy 20–25% more space than it occupied in compacted form. The only obvious advantage of this method of constructing an inspection pit is that it will not get wet in the rain during the digging of the pit, which means that work can be carried out at any time, without much regard for the prevailing weather.
	If this excavation of a pit for an inspection hole is carried out in a still open area, then in this case it will be more difficult to carry out markings with high accuracy, but it is much easier to carry out excavation work, since specialized equipment can be used. The disadvantage of this method of digging a pit is that the hole will still have to be leveled by hand, and also that it will not be protected by a roof. If it suddenly rains, especially if it rains for a long time, then after it you will have to wait a long time for the soil to dry out before continuing work, and sometimes even resort to pumping out the water using a drainage pump. Therefore, in case of a sudden change in weather, it is necessary to prepare material or devices in advance (for example, wooden boards, covered with film), which can be used to cover the pit on top, thereby protecting it from water ingress.
	If clay layers are discovered during the digging process, it is recommended not to transport this soil far, but to leave it close to the garage or dump it next to the pit, since clay is best suited for filling the external cavities around the walls of the pit.
	Next, you should immediately think about ventilation. If it is discharged through a wall or passes under the garage foundation, then a trench is dug for the ventilation pipes.

Planning and arrangement of ventilation of the inspection pit

Despite the measures taken to protect the pit from moisture, over time, one way or another, it may appear bad smell mustiness, gasoline and used engine oil, so installing ventilation in it is simply a must. It is equipped according to the same principle as the basement ventilation system.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Work on the installation of ventilation ducts is usually provided for at the stage of digging a pit. The ventilation system can be common for the inspection pit and the garage, or it can be carried out individually for each of these rooms.
	The presented illustration diagram shows the principle of an integrated ventilation system. Air enters the inspection pit and the garage room through one supply pipe (item 1), which branches into two pipes - straight for the garage (item 2) and descending downwards for the inspection pit (item 3). The air also exits through one exhaust pipe (item 4), passing through the roof to the street and raised at least 500 mm above the roofing of the garage. This pipe also has two holes: one of them is located in the upper part of the wall of the inspection pit (item 6), and the other ventilation window placed under the garage ceiling (item 5) on the opposite wall from the inlet. It must be said that such a scheme can be called the best option that work efficiently and do not lead to unnecessary costs.
	If you plan to make a separate ventilation system for the inspection pit, then both openings are located on one of its sides or on opposite walls. In this case, the pipes can be led out onto the street not through the roof, but under the wall of the garage, through the foundation.
	The supply pipe rises approximately 500 mm above the ground and is closed on top with a protective grille or a special “pass-through” cover. The exhaust duct rises 2000÷2500 mm above ground level, and a metal umbrella is attached to this pipe on top to prevent moisture and dirt from getting into it during wind and precipitation.
	It would be optimal to embed the supply pipe into the ground from the outside of the inspection hole, and draw its lower edge with a pipe through the thickness of the wall in its lower part. However, if space allows, the pipes can be left in the garage. In this case, they are mounted, fixed to the wall and discharged through the ceiling and roof of the building.
	If the channels are located on one wall of the inspection pit, then the supply pipe is lowered to the floor, and the hole for it is arranged at a distance of 100–150 mm from it and must be covered with a protective grille. The exhaust duct opening is mounted 200÷250 mm below the upper edge of the inspection pit. Ventilation pipes are embedded in brickwork(or filled with concrete - if the walls of the pit are monolithic). From inside the inspection pit they look like windows.
	For laying ventilation ducts, it is optimal to use plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. They are mounted on top of a waterproofing sheet laid around masonry walls or concrete formwork.
	After the work on the ventilation is completely completed and the ends of the pipes are embedded in the walls of the pit, it is necessary to test the system for performance. The test itself is not difficult. It is necessary to carry the lit candle first to the hood - its flame should clearly deviate towards the exhaust duct. Then they check at the supply opening, where the spark plug may even go out under strong air pressure. If the tests passed with this result, then the ventilation system is equipped correctly and is fully operational.

Arrangement of the floor and walls of the inspection pit

Now, having understood in general terms the issues of ventilation of the inspection pit, let’s return to general construction work - in the dug pit it’s time to work on the floor and walls.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Having dug a pit, the soil at its bottom must be compacted very well using a hand tamper. After this, gravel or small crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pit and compacted again. In the compacted state, the thickness of this layer should be at least 100 mm. The next layer, 50 mm thick, is filled with sand and compacted, then the sand “cushion” is covered with another five-centimeter layer of gravel. Some builders limit themselves to two layers of backfill - 100 mm sand and 100 mm gravel, which should also be compacted. Most often, the thickness of the layers and their sequence depends on the soil moisture at the bottom of the pit.
	The next step is to cover the bottom and walls of the pit with waterproofing material. For this, dense polyethylene, roofing felt or one of the modern waterproofing membranes can be used. If roofing felt sheets are used, they are laid overlapping one on top of the other by 120÷150 mm. And this strip of mutual overlap is missed bitumen mastic, since the waterproofing layer must be sealed.
	The material is wrapped around the edges of the pit and secured with a load of stones or pipes. However, you should not tighten it too much: the sheets should be positioned freely, since a screed will be poured at the bottom of the pit, which will inevitably pull the sheets down. Next, ventilation pipes are laid, as mentioned above.
	The next step is to strengthen the entire bottom of the pit with a reinforced screed. To do this, a lattice is knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 6÷7 mm using wire, which rises above the compacted rubble by 50÷70 mm - it can be installed on fragments of bricks, since their height is 60 mm. If it is necessary to make the screed thicker, formwork is installed around the perimeter of the pit for pouring concrete.
	The screed mortar is made from sand, gravel (fine crushed stone) and cement in proportions of 2: 4: 1 (more precisely, 1.9: 3.7: 1), assuming that M-400 grade cement is used. Typically, concrete mortar for pouring a floor is prepared in a concrete mixer, then it turns out homogeneous and is easier to work with.
	If the solution is mixed by hand, it is recommended to add one of the plasticizers or liquid soap to it. Some craftsmen recommend adding liquid glass to the solution at the rate of 250 grams per 5 liters of concrete. This additive is recommended if increased soil moisture was found in the lower part of the pit during excavation.
	The floor is filled with ready-made mortar so that the concrete layer above the reinforcement grid is at least 40÷60 mm. Poured concrete can be leveled well using the rule. Thus, the screed will have to be done in two stages - first, most of the floor area is poured, and when it sets and you can stand on its surface, the work is completed. The screed should dry and gain primary strength for 3–4 days. Only after this time has passed can further work be carried out. During the initial ripening period, it is recommended to moisturize daily. concrete surface water - this will make the screed more monolithic and stronger.
	The construction of walls can be made from different materials- they can be derived from piece material- bricks or blocks, or made monolithic, that is, poured from concrete. Further actions depend on which method is chosen. When choosing a method for constructing walls made of brick or gas silicate blocks, the masonry is made along the perimeter of the concrete floor, reinforcing it after 2-3 rows with a wire mesh. There should be a gap of 100÷120 mm between the walls covered with waterproofing and brick, which will later be filled with soil mixed with clay and then compacted.
	Masonry can be done in half or quarter bricks. The solution for it is made from sifted sand and cement, taken in a ratio of 1:3. If you choose red brick for work, then before building the wall, it is recommended to soak it in water for 15-30 minutes so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the solution dries out naturally. To ensure the evenness of the masonry, a stretched rope is used as a guide, and when performing it, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical positions using a building level.
	In addition, niches are immediately planned and formed for convenient placement of tools when performing repair work. For this purpose the brick certain place, is shifted outward by ½ of its thickness, or a metal box is built into the brickwork, which can extend beyond the thickness of the wall, creating a sufficiently deep niche for tools or installation of lamps.
	After the walls are raised, sheets of waterproofing material are wrapped on them, leaving free space between them and the ground walls of the pit. The next step is to gradually fill the resulting gap with clay mixed with soil, while every 150÷200 mm of the filled mixture is moistened and thoroughly compacted.
	If you plan to build concrete walls, then you need to build formwork for them. It can also be installed in different ways. In the first option, it is bent from the walls of the pit waterproofing film and folded onto the cemented floor. Along the perimeter of the pit, a formwork wall made of boards or plywood (OSB) with a thickness of at least 10 mm is installed. Then, a film is lifted onto the wooden walls; here it is necessary to prevent concrete from flowing out through the cracks formed between the boards.
	Next, a reinforcement grid with cells 150×150 mm is mounted along the waterproofed outer surface of the formwork. You can use ready-made mesh cards, or tie them from reinforcing rods with a diameter of 7–8 mm, securing them together with twisted wire.
	It should be noted here that when choosing this option for constructing walls, the reinforcement of floors under the screed, and then its arrangement, can be carried out simultaneously with the reinforcement of future walls. In this case, first of all, the floor is poured, and then the second, inner wall of the formwork is installed, which can be made of plywood (OSB sheets) or boards.
	Thanks to plywood (OSB) formwork, the walls will be guaranteed to be smooth, and the concrete will not be in large volume leak between joints. In order for the concrete to be evenly distributed inside the formwork, it is not necessary to raise its inner wall immediately to the top. Filling is usually carried out in tiers. To begin with, it is enough to erect formwork with a height of 500–700 mm around the entire perimeter, and strengthen the opposite walls with spacers to avoid their deformation under the weight of the raw mortar.
	Then, concrete solution is poured into the formwork. After this tier has set, another superstructure of the inner wall of the formwork is erected, which in turn is also filled with concrete. And so it continues until the very top edge.
	In the second option, the waterproofing film remains on the walls, and along it, with an indent of 50÷70 mm, a reinforcement grid is mounted, that is, the pit wall covered with waterproofing acts as the outer side of the formwork. After this, the first tier of the inner wall of the formwork is erected along the entire perimeter of the pit, which is filled with mortar. Then it is built up and filled again, and so the work continues to the top. Formwork can be removed no earlier than two weeks after the last concrete pouring. The disadvantage of this manufacturing option is the higher consumption of concrete solution.
	To form niches for tools, a reinforced recess is made in the wall and closed on the outside with plywood, that is, concrete will be poured into the formwork around the recess without getting inside. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed and the niche is cultivated concrete mortar. In this case, a metal box can also be used to arrange niches. It is fixed to the reinforcing grid using welding or wire, depending on the thickness of the steel sheet used to make the box.
	Poured reinforced concrete walls must be left to dry and gain strength for about two weeks. After this, the formwork is removed. If you plan to decorate the walls, for example, ceramic tiles, then the concrete is left to mature for another one and a half to two weeks. However, most often the walls remain concrete, in which case it is recommended to cover them with a special strengthening primer deep penetration. Such compositions penetrate into the thickness of concrete, filling all its pores and microcracks, protecting it from moisture, preventing dust, erosion and destruction.
	In addition, after pouring and leveling the concrete in the formwork along the top of the walls, it is recommended to fasten metal corners along their edges to studs (150÷200 mm long). The studs are immersed in the solution through holes drilled in the corners, and so that they do not pull it down with them, metal strips are placed perpendicularly under the edging from the corner, the edges of which will lie on top of the walls of the formwork.
	The corners will serve as a limiter for the pit, a stand for laying boards covering the pit, as well as a wheel guard that will prevent wheels from getting into a dangerous area. In order for this element framing the pit to perform its functions, it must be raised above the level of the main surface of the garage floor by approximately 50÷70 mm.
	After removing the formwork, the gap between the constructed and the ground wall, if any, is filled. To do this, the mixture of clay and soil, after filling it into the space between the walls, is well compacted and reinforced, since the floor screed will be placed on top of it.
	The design and material of the ladder for descending into the pit may be different. But no matter which option is chosen, securely fastening this element to the wall and floor is a prerequisite.
	To cover the inspection hole from above, ordinary individual boards or assembled into panels are most often used. There are more interesting options, for example, when the boards are loosely fastened together with a strong waterproof rope. This approach is convenient in all respects - such a “mobile” lid quickly rolls up and unfolds in the frame from a corner, so you don’t have to select and lay each of the boards separately.

There are special requirements for garage floors

It is important that the coating is durable, wear-resistant, and not afraid of exposure to fuels and lubricants or other aggressive technical fluids. Detailed information on how to do it correctly and what coating to choose for it can be obtained in a special article on our portal.

As a “bonus”, there is a calculator below that will help you quickly and accurately determine required quantity concrete of grade strength M300 for pouring a garage floor. In the options of this mini-application it is possible to take into account the amount of mortar that is required if the walls of the pit are also filled with concrete.

If we are talking only about a hole, without taking into account the garage floor (for example, the screed has already been poured earlier), then in the first group of value entry fields you can specify not the length and width of the garage, but the corresponding parameters of the hole itself. In this case, the calculation will be made only for the screed on the floor of the pit, which will be required in any case.

You can also take into account the entrance ramp in the calculations, if it is also planned to be concrete - when you select this calculation path, additional fields for entering the relevant data will open.

The final result will be given, first of all, in the total volume of concrete solution - this is convenient if it is ordered from a specialized enterprise. And for those who are going to make the solution themselves, the quantity of necessary ingredients is given. Moreover, it will be shown both in weight and in volumetric measurements, since various trade organizations can sell, for example, sand or gravel both by weight and by cubic meters.

A brick inspection pit in a garage is a simple construction necessary for self-repair vehicle. In advance, experts advise preparing a plan diagram of the future structure, determining the groundwater level, purchasing building materials and tools.

The inspection pit for the garage should be located in the middle of the building.

A brick inspection pit is built taking into account the purpose of the garage:

for storing a car - the pit is located in the center of the building;
for repair and storage of vehicles and food - the pit is moved towards the wall of the main building.

The diagram indicates the length of the pit, which should exceed the length of the car by 1 m (to provide a comfortable descent and steps). The width of the recess ranges from 75-80 cm. The next stage is digging a pit in the garage.

To do this, use a shovel and a drill with an attachment. A drill will be required in case of rocky and hard terrain. Experts recommend pre-planning the use of the excavated soil. The next stage is the construction of walls. First of all, insulation with roofing felt is carried out. Rigid roofing material is installed on top. The inspection pit is reinforced with mesh. Then the walls in the pit are plastered. The final finishing is carried out after the solution has dried. The edges of the recess are first secured with aluminum corners.

Additional points

If the inspection pit in the garage is built from brick, then the floor is first installed, then the walls are erected.

The thickness of the partitions is one whole or 1/2 brick. If old brick is used to build the structure, then the material must first be cleaned of old plaster. To do this, use a grinder. Mortar for bricklaying is prepared taking into account the ratio of 3:1. It is recommended to add liquid soap to the resulting composition. In this case, the solution will be more elastic. This will increase the hardening time, which is very important for novice builders.

To ensure that the brick wall is level, first tension the cord and check the verticality. Experts advise placing niches in the side walls of the pit. They can be used to store tools. The upper rows of the masonry are protected from destruction by installing strapping from metal corners. The last elements must be welded taking into account the formation of a shelf on which the flooring from the boards will be laid. The resulting coating ensures safe entry of the vehicle into the inspection pit.

On flooring laying down wooden grate, and paint the walls with water-based emulsion. If the inspection pit is installed in northern regions, then thermal protection is carried out by laying polystyrene foam 50 mm thick.

Creating a pit with close groundwater

Before starting work, it is necessary to clearly determine the location of the pit.

The inspection hole in the garage is built taking into account the depth of groundwater. To do this you will need to dig a pit. If the value of the indicator is less than 2 m, then it is waterproofed. To do this, experts advise using:

polymers with one or several layers of membranes - such materials must be installed by specialists;
liquid or rolled bitumen is the cheapest and available method waterproofing a brick inspection pit - the service life of such a structure reaches 15 years;
penetrating waterproofing - unlimited duration.

Waterproofing work begins with preparing the flooring. To do this you will need to compact the soil. They lay it in the trench bulk material. Ruberoid or brizol is laid after treating the surface of the GGP pit. The first layer of roofing felt is used in strips. In this case, an overlap of 15 cm is maintained. The joints are treated with hot bitumen. If the last material has cooled, then layer 2 is laid.

Experts advise insulating the inspection hole in the garage using penetrating waterproofing.

It is applied to the damp wall covering, and then to the brick. This mixture includes a mineral filler and various additives. To prepare a sealant solution, use 1 kg of powder mixture and 0.3 liters of water.

If the inspection hole in the garage will also be used for storing vegetables, then you will need to make a partition. Particular attention is paid to humidity and air temperature in the storage. If the flooring and walls are poured with concrete, then formwork is installed.

Installation of hoods and lighting

For digging, it is better to use a shovel and a drill with an attachment.

The next work plan is to install the ceiling, insulate the pit, possibly insulate the garage itself, install ventilation and lighting. The hood is necessary to ensure normal operation in the garage. If it is planned to lay waterproofing material in the pit, then the hood is installed before work begins. Otherwise, its integrity will be compromised.

2 pipes are installed in the pit:

Supply air - removal of clean air masses from the street into the inspection hole;
Exhaust - removal of polluted and humid air masses from the pit to the street. In this case, the following requirement is met: the pipe is installed 1 m from the roof level. To construct such a system, plastic or metal pipes are used.

The inspection hole requires lighting. The following should be taken into account:

electrical safety requirements - it is recommended to draw up a lighting diagram with the help of a qualified specialist;
to ensure uniform lighting in the room, general and local electricity is installed;
sockets and switches are installed in the garage;
section copper cable should be equal to 4 sq. mm.

To provide the room with light, low-voltage lamps are installed. For them to work, it will be necessary to equip a step-down control system.

Types of light sources

Lighting in the garage and inspection pit is carried out using:

12V lamps;
36V lamps;
battery lamps.

When using the above lighting devices, an additional transformer (200/12 V) is installed near the meter. Experts advise installing lamps in the inspection hole daylight. They are located on both sides of the pit. Special recesses are pre-arranged. Lamps must be protected from moisture with a hermetically sealed shell. If you need to illuminate hard to reach place V vehicle, then use a portable lamp. It is connected to an electrical wire more than 4 m long.

Lighting in the garage is carried out using lamps:

incandescent;
energy saving;
LED;
luminescent.

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Characteristics of lighting fixtures

Each lamp has certain advantages and disadvantages. It is not recommended to install incandescent lamps in a garage with an inspection hole, since these lighting devices are highly dangerous, consume a lot of electricity, and emit light of different shades. This negatively affects vision.

It is recommended to install fluorescent lighting fixtures in a warm room. If the air temperature does not exceed +5°C, then the fluorescent light bulb is not reliable in operation. Experts attribute the presence of mercury to its disadvantages. Therefore, after the end of its service life, the lamp is disposed of.

More often, energy-saving lamps are installed in the inspection pit, which provide bright and uniform illumination and have long term operation. Their performance does not depend on the temperature in the garage. Experts consider the disadvantages to be high price and careful handling(due to the presence of mercury).

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LED bulbs are used for local lighting. They do not blink, providing an even light. At the same time, these devices will require a minimum of energy without causing negative influence on human health. Once the electrical work is completed, you can begin

Arranging an inspection pit in the garage helps to carry out independent car repairs much faster and cheaper, without the involvement of specialists. In addition, it is used to carry out periodic technical inspections of various types of equipment. Correct arrangement The inspection pit has a lot of advantages, but to implement it you need to follow a certain technology, which we’ll talk about later.

Advantages and disadvantages of arranging a viewing hole in the garage

Arranging a viewing hole in the garage has both positive and negative sides. At a time when the network of service stations was poorly developed, inspection pits were in almost every garage. When a large number of service stations appear, many car enthusiasts refuse to build an inspection pit, primarily due to factors such as lack of time to repair the car, accumulation of excess moisture in the pit, and additional time and material costs for constructing a pit.

In addition, increased humidity in the pit contributes to faster deterioration of the car, since moisture evaporates from the pit and falls on the lower part of the body, thereby accelerating its corrosion.

Despite this, the inspection pit has a number of advantages in favor of its arrangement in the garage. First, the ability to independently repair or inspect the vehicle. This fact allows you to save on a trip to a service station. In addition, for some men, checking a car is a kind of hobby. Periodic oil changes in a garage with an inspection hole become quite possible at home.

Arrangement of the correct inspection hole in the garage

If you nevertheless decide to build an inspection hole in the garage, this is not always possible, primarily due to the height of the groundwater. If the water is located at a distance of about 200 cm from the garage, then constructing a pit is unacceptable, since you will have to constantly pump water out of it.

Although, with proper waterproofing and installation of a drainage system, this problem is completely solvable.

Arrangement and installation of drainage requires consultation with specialists, since even the slightest mistake will lead to improper functioning of the entire system. If the drainage system is laid during the construction of the house, then it is quite possible to build an inspection hole. Otherwise, this procedure will be too costly and troublesome.

If the groundwater is too high, then the only option would be to equip an inspection pit with a recumbent direction.

To check the level of groundwater, you will need to consult specialists, although it is quite possible to cope without them. To do this, you should dig a small pit at the location of the inspection hole and measure the level at which the water begins to rise. The water will begin to rise during heavy rains, therefore, until this period, the pit is not subjected to concreting.

Dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage: features of calculations

In relation to the design features, the inspection hole is:

complex, consisting of a pit and a cellar;
narrow, in this case, a small staircase is enough to go down into it;
the recumbent option involves staying in a pit, exclusively in a supine position.

In addition, these options differ in various modifications of the pits. The size of a standard inspection hole in a garage depends, first of all, on the number of people who will be in it, on the size of the garage itself, on the type of car or other equipment that will be in the garage.

If you have several cars, it is better to use classic version, which assumes the following dimensions:

the width of the inspection hole in the garage is from 80 to 100 cm;
the depth of the inspection hole in the garage is about 170-200 cm;
the length of the inspection hole depends on the length of the garage and is at least 160-200 cm.

Before planning the inspection pit, you should take into account the individual characteristics of the structure, which will affect the determination of the size and configuration of the pit. The hole is dug with allowances that are about forty centimeters in length and width, and about twenty in height. If it is necessary to insulate the walls, the size of the pit should be increased by the size of the material from which the insulation will be made.

How to make a viewing hole in the garage: the initial stage

After constructing the necessary pit and after setting it up before the first rain, an important process follows - the construction of the floor of the inspection pit. If you adhere to all the technological aspects associated with this process, then problems with the accumulation of excess moisture will not appear.

First of all, the inspection pit needs natural ventilation, so when arranging the floor you should take care of the presence of an opening through which the hose will pass in the form of an air duct.

This hose is closed with a lid and inserted at least twenty centimeters. Next, the concrete pad is prepared, which consists of two layers. First, gravel is poured, at least ten centimeters thick, and then sand, about six centimeters thick. Thanks to this, a drainage system is installed, which is responsible for removing moisture from the pit.

Each of the previously filled layers requires careful compaction and leveling. For these purposes, a special tool and water are used.

After this, metal reinforcement is laid on it, and the surface is filled with concrete mortar. When the concrete has dried, another waterproofing layer is laid, and only after that, the pit passes finishing or treatment with thermal insulation materials.

If the groundwater is too deep, it is possible to lay the floor in the inspection hole with bricks.

Waterproofing an inspection pit in a garage: features of implementation

Modern market building materials offers a huge amount waterproofing materials different shapes, size and purpose. The main requirements for material for waterproofing inspection pits are efficiency and high quality work at a reasonable cost.

Therefore, based on these criteria, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main options that help to waterproof the inspection pit:

polymer single-layer membrane - the thickness of this material is about two millimeters, it is durable and highly resistant, but at the same time, this option has the highest cost, in addition, installation of the membrane will require availability special equipment and tools for working with it;
materials based on bitumen in the form of roofing material or bitumen lubricant - are affordable and easy to install, the service life of this waterproofing option is at least 15 years, but at the same time, you do not need to hire specialists, the material has a roll form, is easy to lay and cut, for gluing joints it is heated or a bitumen solvent is used;
lubricant for waterproofing inspection pits is low-cost, easy to apply; to install it, you must first moisten the surface with water.

Choosing insulation for an inspection hole in the garage

The procedure for insulating the inspection pit is not a common option, which needs to be carried out only if additional material resources are available and when working in a heated garage room.

Insulation will reduce the amount of electricity required to heat the garage space. The material in the form of insulation is glued to the wall and floor of the pit. After its installation, the walls undergo final finishing.

Among the large number of insulation materials, it is best to give preference to expanded polystyrene, which has the following advantages:

duration of operation;
high resistance to heat losses;
moisture resistance;
affordable price;
fire safety.

Please note that the material chosen for floor insulation is denser than for the walls of the inspection pit.

How to build a viewing hole in a garage: technology for working with walls

In the process of erecting the walls of the inspection pit, there are two options for further actions:

concreting;
brick.

After this, tiles or other finishing materials are laid on the walls.

Before laying bricks or pouring concrete, a series of preparatory work, which consist of applying clay to the surface of the walls, laying a dense film in the form of waterproofing, and installing formwork, the thickness of which is about 12 cm.

Please note the technological nuances associated with carrying out this work:

in order to prevent the car wheel from accidentally falling into the inspection hole, you should make sure that there is a safety rail in it; in addition, it will prevent moisture and dirt from entering from the car wheels;
the inspection rail has a T-shape; its manufacture requires metal, which is fixed on the surface of the formwork and is a supporting element on which the lid is placed;
in addition, it will not be superfluous to arrange ledges and niches in the wall, on which they will be conveniently located various kinds accessories.

Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage - arrangement of lighting and cover

Lighting in the inspection hole is not necessary, since using a portable flashlight or light bulb is sufficient. However, if the inspection hole is used too often, then it is better to foresee this moment in advance.

The maximum voltage of the socket that is installed in the inspection hole should be 35V. Moreover, due to high humidity, it must be high quality and moisture resistant. The use of standard two hundred and twenty volt lamps in the inspection pit is prohibited, as they pose a threat to the life of the person working in the pit.

When choosing lighting fixture, you should proceed from the power of the outlet for which special types of lamps have been developed.

The work of arranging the inspection pit is completed by installing a cover, which is most often made of wood. Minimum thickness material is 3 cm, because it is too solid boards It will be difficult to get up.

There are several options for making a cover for the inspection pit:

when using metal corner, to make the lid you will need several shields on small rollers, it is with their help that the shields are moved together. For each shield there is a wooden strip, the width of which is about 25 mm;
if there are only two corners fixed along the contour, two shields are used to make the lid, which are located in different areas, rollers are installed on the movable shield, and limiters are installed on the extreme parts of the planks, thus, when the shield is moved, the pit opens halfway;
the lids, which open according to the roller shutter principle, are made of wood, about 4 cm thick, and the length, depending on the width of the pit, each board is processed in such a way as to construct a grooved hole on it, a metal cable is installed in them, between which the installation is carried out springs, with light pressure on the handle the pit opens, this cover is convenient, but during its manufacture it should be treated with an anti-corrosion compound and a waterproofing solution.

How to fill a viewing hole in a garage

As mentioned earlier, the walls of the inspection pit are made of concrete or brick. The first option is less expensive financially, but requires a higher time investment. Concrete walls are characterized by higher strength, durability, and reliability.

Inspection hole in the garage photo:

After compacting the crushed stone, the construction of the concrete floor begins; its height is about six centimeters. The floor first needs reinforcement. For these purposes, a wire mesh with a cell size of 15x15 cm is used.

To prepare one cubic meter of concrete you will need:

three hundred kilograms of cement, grade more than 400;
700 kg of sand;
200 liters of water;
1200 kg of crushed stone.

If the batch concrete mixture If done manually, more water should be added. When using a concrete mixer, the proportions are maintained.

If the water content of the concrete mixture increases, a little cement should be added. This option concrete has good strength and durability.

The optimal wall thickness is about fifteen centimeters. To prepare the solution you will need:

350 kg of cement;
660 kg of sand;
1200 kg of crushed stone;
210 liters of water.

For concreting walls, layering technology should be followed. That is, the concrete composition is applied in layers. The height of each tier should not exceed thirty centimeters. To compact the composition, use a bayonet shovel or an internal concrete vibrator.

The arrangement of the walls of the inspection pit requires reinforcement using the same mesh as on the floor. The mesh is installed in strips, just like concrete is laid. After the work is completed, the concrete is left for three days, and then the formwork is removed.

Inspection hole in the garage video: