Tamping with a perforator. How to make a concrete vibrator yourself. How to knead a solution to create a cinder block

The profitability of a homemade cinder block is not in doubt, but are there really reliable ways to ensure consistently high quality at sufficiently high production volumes? Let's try to answer this question and consider the main methods homemade cinder block with your own hands.

Choice of manufacturing method

Actually, there are not so many ways to make a cinder block as there are devices for this. In all cases, cinder concrete must be kneaded in a concrete mixer, in no case by hand. At this stage, the sequence of adding ingredients, their proportions, duration and other mixing features play a role.

But for the formation of cinder block there is a large number of all kinds of matrices, presses and machines. In general, all production methods can be divided into:

manual, when the mass is formed by tamping in single forms;
partially mechanized, where manual lever presses are used;
fully automated, based on vibration shrinkage or hydraulic pressing.

It is obvious that mechanization makes it possible to increase the accuracy of production parameters, so the methods of lever pressing and vibration shrinkage are most preferable. Small hand tools will be relevant if you need to produce only a couple of hundred stones.

After molding and setting the mass, the cinder block must be removed from the mold. These actions should also be mechanized, most of the marriage appears precisely at the cage stage. The simplest and most reliable devices for this are a lifting mold block and a damper.

Mechanisms can also be used for drying and storage. At a minimum, when moving raw material to the main drying site, it is preferable to use trolleys and manual forklifts.

Equipment: what to buy and what to make yourself

The desire to save money is quite reasonable, but there is equipment that is very difficult to assemble yourself and vice versa: you simply cannot buy some devices.

The production cycle, disassembled by stages

To prepare cinder concrete, you first need to mix bulk materials then add water little by little. You need to knead until the mixture acquires sufficient plasticity and stops crumbling if you squeeze it with your hands. It is better to add water with a sprayer, gradually wetting the mixture until it is semi-dry.

The prepared mixture can be poured directly onto the cement floor or onto a rigid sheet substrate near the machine. From there, we collect it with a shovel and carefully fill out the form. Periodically, vibration shrinkage is necessary to compact the concrete and squeeze out large air bubbles. When the form is filled to the brim with the mixture, it must be tamped.

In some machines, a reciprocal matrix with a small oppression is used for this, with which the cinder block is compacted in vibration mode. In other cases, the same frame is connected to a system of levers and simply squeezes the mass inside the mold. At the end of the molding, you need to wait 5-10 seconds and remove the mold from the product, leaving it on the floor for pre-drying. If the forms are equipped with shutters, it is better to immediately lift the block and place the product on a pallet.

The cinder block is dried from several hours to several days. It all depends on the composition of the mixture and the technical equipment of the site. Subsequently, the products are carefully moved to the place of storage, where they are stored.

What composition of cinder concrete is optimal

As the main filler, it is better to use granite screenings. Its structure is small scales, such material is well fastened in mass and gives excellent strength. A lighter, but not as hard, cinder block is made from crushed slag from energy and metallurgy enterprises. The latter type is characterized by the best heat-insulating properties.

Cement - only Portland grade not lower than 400. More precisely, cement grade 300 can also be used, but with an increase in its content by 15-25%.

Sand is used in the cinder block to increase the density, which is not always required. The material must be of quarry origin, necessarily washed. In total, sand in the total mass up to 20%. The filler is mixed with cement 400 in a ratio of 8:1 or 9:1.

What else can be included:

sawdust of all types;
foam crumb;
brick, concrete battle;
plasticizers and modifiers.

The use of the latter will provide an early setting of the mixture and a relatively free set of products. It is also recommended to use additives to increase frost resistance. It will be useful to familiarize yourself with the standards set forth in GOST 6133 as amended in 1999 - here are not only the requirements for the feedstock, but also the rules for organizing production, some specifications and quality control methods.

Cinder block storage

The cinder block gains full hardness a few weeks after production. All this time it is exposed to natural street drying under a canopy. If there is no place for storing the cinder block in one layer, it is allowed to stack pallets with one row of cinder block on top of each other. For the period of the main drying, it is important to ensure good ventilation of the stack and free removal of moisture.

After two weeks of drying, the cinder block can be stored without pallets, but be sure to at least cover it so that rainwater did not wash out the fasteners. If a cinder block is needed for own construction, prepare it in advance: one winter in outdoor conditions and most marriages will show up on their own.

Concrete is the most common building material. It is used for arranging foundations, pouring floors and even building monolithic multi-storey buildings. The reason for this popularity is high degree strength and durability of the finished material.

To achieve maximum quality characteristics requires not only the use quality materials, but also the observance of certain technologies. To ensure maximum strength, no air should remain in the solution. To condense cement mortar use a vibrator for concrete.

2 Types of vibration units

Vibrators for concrete can be divided into several subgroups based on the method and features of their application:

the submersible or deep manual vibrator of concrete got its name from the method of contact with the solution. The tip of such a unit is immersed directly in the cement-sand mixture. They are used when pouring monolithic concrete structures, foundations and other structures, providing for a large depth and width of the filled space;
surface concrete vibrator allows you to perform work during pouring large areas with a small thickness of the screed. They are used for concreting floors, ceilings, paths and other things;
the external vibrating unit is mounted outside the formwork. It is convenient to use for filling narrow walls and piers with a high coefficient of reinforcement.

By motor type vibrators can be electric, liquid fuel and pneumatic.

Most often in construction, units operating from a 220-volt network are used. There are models using a voltage of 42 volts.

2.1 Deep vibratory unit

Most often found in construction submersible unit, because the most common type of concreting is pouring the foundation.

This device also has various modifications and design features. Let's look at two main ones:

The portable vibrator for concrete is equipped with a built-in low power motor (up to 1 kW). Such a device has a small mass (6-10 kg) for the convenience of the operator. They are usually used for small volume construction. The vibrating tip, or mace, is connected to the engine by a rubberized sleeve, in which the cable runs. A vibration impulse is transmitted through the cable from the engine. The price of a new unit is quite high, so for home construction it makes sense to purchase a used concrete vibrator;
The portable submersible concrete vibrator consists of a motor, a flexible shaft and a vibrating mace. As a rule, the complete set of such units is purchased separately, based on the volume and conditions of construction. In this case, the engine is installed motionless on a solid platform. The length of the flexible shaft should allow work to be carried out on the entire site. Just like a deep vibrator, this device connects to a 220 V network.

2.2 Surface unit

A surface construction concrete vibrator can be found much less frequently, but it is also convenient to use for home construction.

Just like the submersible, this unit is powered by a 220 volt engine. Its peculiarity is that instead of a mace that is immersed directly into the solution, this model is equipped with a vibrating platform that can reach two meters in length.

The surface construction concrete vibrator is indispensable for pouring floors and ceilings. It allows you to perform work on the compaction of concrete many times faster.

A vibrator for concrete, used or new, of this type, can also be used when pouring shallow foundations, which are most often laid in private construction.

Before connecting the unit to a 220 V network, it must be grounded to avoid the occurrence of stray currents.

2.3 We make the vibration unit ourselves

You can make a vibrator for concrete with your own hands from any electric tool, the design of which allows you to adjust the number of revolutions. You should not look for an engine with a very large power, because it will not bear too much load. For the manufacture of a vibrator, it is possible to use a perforator, drills, grinders, etc.

To get the unit we need, we need to convert the existing torque of the power tool into the vibration of the connected tip.

A homemade vibrator for concrete is made by placing an unbalancer in the pipe.

Most often craftsmen make a vibrator for concrete with their own hands from a perforator. In this case, you don’t even need to strain and fantasize especially, because this tool, by itself, is percussive.

A do-it-yourself vibrator for concrete from a perforator can be used both for work on the surface and as a deep unit. In the first case, metal plates can be added to the tip to increase the oscillation area. If we are dealing with fittings - instead of plates, it is better to use a washer.

It is better not to equip a submersible concrete vibrator from a perforator additional extensions tip, because they can catch on the reinforcement and significantly complicate the work.

The popularity of the cinder block is due to its practicality, low cost and ease of masonry. From this material you can independently build houses, outbuildings, baths, garages and other structures. And it is not at all necessary to purchase ready-made blocks, because making cinder blocks with your own hands at home is not particularly difficult. It is enough to study the features of the building material and the sequence of actions in the process of masonry. From this article you will learn how to make high-quality cinder blocks at home, what requirements should be followed, and what mistakes should be avoided.

What is cinder block

Consider what the cinder block consists of. This is a regular parallelepiped 39 cm long, 18.8 cm high and 19 cm wide. The more correct its shape is, the easier the laying process will be. Blocks can be solid or hollow. Full-bodied products are used for the construction bearing walls and interior partitions. In contrast, hollow blocks, having a voidage of about 30%, are more economical. Voids make cinder blocks warmer, increase their soundproofing properties. In addition to the construction of walls, such products are used to insulate the concrete frames of buildings.

The production of a hollow cinder block provides for the presence of several holes. The number of holes can be 2 or 3. The shape of the holes can also be very different: round, rectangular or square.

We make do-it-yourself cinder block mold

The first step is to purchase or make your own molds for cinder blocks. It is in them that cinder blocks will be made with their own hands. You can make one form if there is a small construction. If there is a desire to speed up the process of making a cinder block at home, then you can make a blank designed for the simultaneous production of 3-6 blocks. Design drawings are prepared in advance.

Consider how to make a mold with your own hands, the dimensions of which are 400x200x200 mm. To do this, you need boards or sheets of metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The structure itself consists of a bottom to which the walls are attached. The height of the walls corresponds to the expected height of the parallelepiped.

To form voids, metal pipes with a diameter of about 6–9 cm are taken. They must first be processed with a grinder so that cones are obtained. This is necessary to ensure the ease of removing them from the hardened cinder block or removing the mold from a block that has not yet hardened. The pipes are connected by a metal bridge and fixed at the bottom or on the side walls of the mold.

The production technology of cinder blocks allows the use wooden blanks in the form of cones. If you follow a very simple path, then bottles filled with water are used for the manufacture of cinder blocks, which are recessed in the solution. True, in this case, after pouring, it is necessary to wait for the solution to solidify in the form.

The form can be detachable. To do this, the walls are fixed so that they can be easily removed. In this case, easy release of the finished cinder block from the mold is ensured. Grooves are cut in the long walls of the mold, into which short transverse walls are inserted.

In the process of making the mold, a cover will be required, which will ensure that the surface of the solution is leveled, and will also be a kind of press. Holes must be made in the lid for conical components if they are not intended to be attached to the lid. If the conical protrusions are rigidly fixed on the lid, then the lid also acts as a press. If readers are interested in how to make cinder blocks full-bodied, then for this it is enough to remove conical cylinders from the structure, and make the lid monolithic.

Production of a vibrating machine

To provide best quality received products, applied special equipment for the production of cinder blocks at home. This is the so-called vibration machine. It allows you to create vibration after pouring the solution into the mold, which helps to compact the solution and increase the strength of the product. Consider how to make a homemade vibrating machine yourself. Its scheme is quite simple.

Vibrating Machine for Single Block Production

According to its design, the vibrating machine consists of the following elements:

A metal box (form) designed for the simultaneous production of 1-3 cinder blocks with your own hands. The box is made from sheets of metal. Its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of future products.
Cylinders for forming voids. In this capacity, pieces are used metal pipes, which are processed with a grinding wheel to form a taper. The cylinders are interconnected by a metal bridge along the long side of the mold and attached to the side walls. The distance from the bottom of the cylinders to the bottom should not be less than 3 cm.
A slotted cover that fits over the cylinders.
Handles on the sides for removing the mold from the blocks.
An electric motor with a power of 0.5–0.8 kW. It is bolted to one of the mold walls.

FROM reverse side forms, lugs are welded for attaching cylinders. If it is necessary to make full-bodied blocks, then the cylinders can be easily removed from the lugs. Finished equipment for the manufacture of cinder blocks is cleaned and coated with paint.

With the help of such a machine, the cinder block at home is very durable, has correct geometry.

After making cinder block molds, you can proceed to direct process production.

The proportions of the solution for the manufacture of cinder blocks

There is a certain recipe for the production of cinder block:

The main filler - 7 parts. Slag filling is usually used, but it can be replaced with crushed ceramic bricks, gypsum, sawdust, gravel and other similar components.
Cement - 1.5 parts. You should take cement grade not lower than M400.
Sand sifted - 2 parts.
Water - to the point. To determine the optimal density of the solution, you need to squeeze the solution in your hand, and then throw a handful on the ground. At normal density, the solution will disintegrate, and upon re-compression, a single mass will form again.

The cinder block production technology provides for the additional introduction of a plasticizer intended for concrete into the composition of the solution. It helps to increase the strength, water resistance and frost resistance of products. The plasticizer is taken in the amount of 5 g per 1 block.

The technology of independent production of cinder blocks

Before making cinder blocks, you should study the recommendations experienced craftsmen, telling about the most popular mistakes of beginners.

Scheme of production of one block with manual rammer

The production of cinder blocks at home consists of several stages:

1. A concrete solution is being prepared. To do this, it is better to use a concrete mixer.

2. The concrete mixture is poured into the prepared form. It is superimposed with a slide, which settles in the process of ramming. In the manufacture in the usual form, you can use the rule by which the mixture is smoothed flush with the walls.

3. The form is closed with a lid.

4. If a vibratory machine is used, it is turned on for a few seconds, during which the mixture is compacted. When using the usual form, you can tap on its walls with a hammer. This is necessary so that air bubbles come out of the concrete, and all voids are compacted.

5. The compacted mass can be immediately removed from the mold, but it is recommended to keep it inside the mold for a day.

Many are interested in the question: how much dries ready product? Within a day, the blocks can be transferred to a place of permanent storage. If a plasticizer was used in the process of their manufacture, then the solution solidifies after 7-8 hours. During the storage of the material, it is not allowed to be on straight lines. sunshine. It is best to store blocks in a warehouse at a constant temperature and high humidity. In a month, any structures can be built from blocks.

As you can see, making a cinder block with your own hands is quite simple. And its cost is such that it allows you to save twice on materials.

We figured out how to make a cinder block with your own hands. If you want to build a small outbuilding on your site, then there is no need to buy a ready-made cinder block. It is easier to make it yourself by buying cement and a slag machine. Moreover, the equipment for this can be made by hand.

Wall blocks have long become one of the most common building materials. When building a garage, residential building or other outbuildings for building walls, the cheapest building materials are cinder blocks. They are made from almost any waste material. At the same time, cinder blocks are laid into the walls not only on sand-cement mortar, but also on clay mortar, which further reduces the cost of construction. Unlike brick, building blocks are much easier to do at home with your own hands. The process of making cinder blocks and the technology is quite simple and accessible to anyone who wants to save money and who likes to do it himself.

Briefly, what is a cinder block?
According to the prevailing opinion, cinder blocks are usually understood as blocks made by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from concrete mortar, the main components of the solution are slag and cement as the main binder. However, today cinder blocks are conditionally called any building blocks obtained by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from a concrete solution. The presence of slag is not necessary - as components of the concrete solution can be: slag, granite screenings, crushed granite, river rubble, gravel, brick and concrete breakage, hardened cement breakage, glass breakage, expanded clay and even sand.
Usually the size of the cinder block is in the range of 200 mm by 200 mm by 400 mm or less. There are two types of cinder blocks - hollow and solid. There are a lot of varieties of blocks: these are ordinary wall blocks (for example, cinder block, smooth block 140), wall blocks (used for building partitions indoors, has a thickness of 90 mm), decorative blocks for walls (decorative block 190), blocks for fences ( decorative block 140, decorative corner block), blocks for facade finishing ( facade stone), etc. At home, you can also make clay bricks - the choice is yours.

For the manufacture of cinder blocks, you need two things: shape and raw materials.

Form options for cinder blocks

Form from sheet metal 3 mm thick. Together with assistants, using a concrete mixer, you can “produce” up to 300 pieces of blocks per day without much effort. Is it a lot or a little? Judge for yourself: a 6x4 m garage will require 450 such blocks, and 1000 pieces per floor of a 6.5x8 m house.

Form for concrete blocks (all dimensions are internal, welds are external).

Block making mortar prepared like this. Knead a slightly moistened mixture (the amount of water is determined empirically) in the proportion: cement - 1 part, slag or expanded clay - from 7 to 12 (the proportion is given for M400 cement). Having set the form on a flat area, fill it with mortar, ram it with a manual tamper and, having aligned it along the upper edge, cut off the excess with a metal strip. Now carefully remove the form (it is without a bottom) - the block is ready.

Place the form side by side and repeat the process. At the end of the work, do not forget to thoroughly wash the mold with water. After 24 hours, the blocks can already be stored (no more than three in height), making room for the next batch. The size of the form is given in case you decide to lay walls with an additional 1/2 brick cladding. If your building will have walls plastered on both sides, then you can take arbitrary sizes - if only you could then lift such a block with your hands. And when laying walls with a thickness of 50 cm, do not forget to “bandage” with a bonded brick row every two rows of blocks.

The sizes of home-made cinder blocks can be chosen "for yourself".
most the simplest form, which satisfied me the most, I made as follows. I picked up planed boards with a width along the height of the cinder block (140 mm). The length of the board should be no more than 2 m, since working with a longer form is more difficult: you have to do a lot of unnecessary movements. Next you need cross bars. The two extreme crossbars are connected to the longitudinal boards "on sliding grooves" (Fig.).

Form for three cinder blocks

FROM inside longitudinal boards (between the crossbars) every 140 mm form a cut with a hacksaw and a chisel transverse grooves with a depth of 7 ... 8 mm. The width of the cut depends on the thickness of the dividing plates made of sheet iron, textolite, getinaks. Plates from other durable sheet material will also work, as long as it is smooth enough. From fig. 1 it is clear how to make a mold. To describe it for a long time and there is no point, I just want to say that the finished form is placed on an absolutely flat surface before pouring the solution into it. All details of the form made of wood, it is desirable to paint any oil paint, which will provide easier removal of cinder blocks from the mold. Each time, before pouring into the solution form, all its internal surfaces are wiped with solar oil (diesel oil) or used engine oil. Rub lightly, not too much. To reduce the consumption of the solution, and cinder blocks turned out to be light and with voids, - and this is additional heat in indoors, - forms pour the solution up to half, after which champagne bottles are pressed into the solution.

Form filled with mortar

If, after installing the bottles, the level of the solution does not rise enough, the required amount of solution (up to the top of the mold) is added with a trowel. After 2 ... 3 hours, the solution will significantly settle and get stronger, then the bottles are pulled out, carefully turning them around the axis, and immediately washed with water, otherwise the solution will firmly stick to them and the bottles will be unsuitable for further use.
The process of removing cinder blocks from the mold is very simple. Just lightly tap the mold around the perimeter with a hammer and disassemble it. The side boards are easy to separate, but the separation plates are somewhat more difficult to remove. You will have to carefully beat with a hammer on the protruding plate from above and slightly to the side.
Every day, that is, after 24 hours, I took out the almost hardened cinder blocks from the mold and poured the solution into it again. I did not use any compaction of the solution with a rammer or with the help of vibration. A few words about the solution. Despite the fact that it was quite liquid, cinder blocks, after appropriate exposure, acquired such strength that they could then be split or hewn with great difficulty.
For one part of cement brand "400" I took 9 or even 10 parts of slag. There was no marriage. Why did I tell this? Yes, in order to quickly make a solid number of excellent quality cinder blocks with just a few forms. I made cinder blocks in the evening after work every day, and I will say that this work was not a burden for me.I don’t have a concrete mixer and I knead the mortar manually in a pallet with a capacity of 300 p. .

And one more option self-manufacturing blocks. Sheet metal mold.

I chose the dimensions of the blocks 510x250x215 mm (the volume is 14 bricks). I welded 11 molds without bottoms from sheet iron waste. From the sides welded on 2 handles.

Right on the ground I spread the roofing material, put the form. To prevent the mixture from seizing with the walls of the form, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with used oil or diesel fuel. I fall asleep there hard expanded clay concrete. Ramming is not very strong. I remove the first form after backfilling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes later. The blocks stand still for 12 hours. Then I shift them under a canopy. They harden at a positive temperature for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing material, tarpaulin or plastic film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.

Tried make blocks with voids. Inserted two wooden round timber, turned into a cone and wrapped roofing iron. Hollow formers can be round, square, rectangular ... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the wall thickness is 215, 250 or 510 mm.

For thick walls, it is better to make the blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215 mm without voids can be called cold, 250 mm - semi-warm, 510 mm with voids - warm.

To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron in the center of the mold. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the wall of the house, you have to make wooden plugs to secure the door and window frames.

Tried make building blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, general form for multiple blocks. The vibrator was fixed on the side. I made the walls of the mold 1/3 higher - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.

Fillers can be local non-deficient materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1 to prepare the mixture.

The hardest work is the preparation of concrete. It is advisable to use a simple home-made concrete mixer or a ready-made purchased one.

Cinder blocks were and are one of the most popular materials for the construction various designs in construction. Their characteristic strength, as well as good thermal insulation properties, make it possible to build quickly and relatively easily and quite cheaply. Both a professional and an inexperienced bricklayer can build from them.

Cinder block is one of the most popular building materials. It is made by the method of vibrocompression from a concrete solution. A wide variety of buildings are being built from cinder blocks - from sheds and garages to residential buildings.

Planning to build something out of cinder blocks? Make them yourself! There is nothing complicated in the production technology of these concrete blocks. You need to thoroughly understand the order of work, find out the basic requirements and withstand the recipe.

The dimensions of the cinder block are standardized - 188 x 190 x 390 mm. Each block has holes. Usually there are 3. For manufacturing building elements a mixture of cement grade not lower than M400, blast-furnace slag and coarse sand is used. Often additional fillers and plasticizers are added.

It is possible to make blocks both manually using molds, and using equipment with the function of vibrocompression.

On average, one bag of cement is enough to make 36 blocks. The savings are obvious.

The cinder block must have the correct geometry. Even small irregularities will lead to a deterioration in the quality of the masonry. To get even blocks, the forms need to be filled not just to the brim, but with a small slide, because. during vibration, the concrete will slightly shake and settle.

How to prepare a solution?

some universal composition there is no solution for making cinder blocks - each master has his own unique recipe. In general, it is necessary to focus on the features of the composition of the slag.

Components	Volume, l, per block	Dry block compressive strength, kg/cm2	Frost resistance of the finished block, cycles	The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the finished cinder block
Slag up to 8 mm	10	30-40	30	0.35-0,4
Sand up to 3 mm	1,8
Cement	2,75
Water	1,5

There is a standard "factory" recipe, you can focus on it. The proportions are as follows:

slag - 7 parts;
sand - 2 parts;
cement - 1.5 parts;
water - 1.5-3 parts. More about the definition required amount water will be discussed later.

Useful advice! Previously, the standard dimensions of cinder blocks were given. However, for private development it is more convenient to use products with dimensions of 400x200x200 mm.

In addition to slag, such blocks can include ash, sawdust, gypsum, broken bricks, coal combustion products, gravel and other similar materials.

Take Special attention determination of the required volume of water. It must be added so much that the products do not spread after formation.

You can do a simple test. Throw a handful of the solution on the ground or other surface. If it crumbles, but when compressed back by hands, it reunites into a single mass - the consistency is optimal.

Making cinder blocks by hand

If not too large-scale construction is planned, blocks can be made without a vibropress.

We make a form

We collect the form with dimensions of 40x20x20 cm. If you wish, you can adjust the dimensions at your discretion. For the manufacture of molds, we use metal sheets or wooden boards.

The design is extremely simple: bottom and side walls. We fix the walls taking into account the selected width and length of the block. The height of the form faces must also correspond to the planned height of the building elements.

Useful advice! You can make molds with cells for the simultaneous production of 4-6 blocks - very convenient. It is only necessary to increase the length and width of the outer faces and install partitions between them.

Prepare empty glass bottles. You will use them to create voids in blocks.

Pour blocks

Pour the solution evenly into the mold to the brim.

We place the bottles with the neck up in the poured mass. Level the surface of the fill, removing excess mortar.

We wait about 5 hours and get the bottles. We leave the cinder blocks in the forms for a day, after which we carefully take them out and lay them out on a horizontal surface in piles.

We leave the blocks to dry for a month. Only after the specified time, the material can be used for construction.

Useful advice! Cover the blocks while drying. plastic wrap. It will protect products from cracking during the heat and will not let them get wet in case of rain.

We make cinder blocks on the machine

The machine allows you to significantly increase productivity. The equipment has a fairly simple design.

We assemble the machine

The main element of a home-made vibrocompression machine is a form (matrix) for cinder concrete mortar. By design, this form is a metal box with internal elements in the form of voids. The void spacers can also be removable.

Work set includes the following materials and tools:

First step. We make a form according to the size of future blocks. We cut out the side faces of the matrix from sheet steel. We will make the form immediately for 2 blocks. To do this, we cut out the inner central partition from steel and fix it in the box.

Second step. Determine the height of the elements for the design of voids.

Important! In accordance with the technology, the height of the voids should be such that the bottom wall has a thickness of 3 cm or more.

Third step. We cut off 6 pieces of pipe along the length of the restrictor cylinders to form voids.

Fourth step. We give the pipes a conical shape. To do this, we cut each piece of pipe longitudinally to the middle, crimp it with a vise and connect it with welding machine. each cone on both ends.

Fifth step. We connect the limiters in a row along the long edge of the cinder block. We add along the edges of the row along a plate of 3 cm thickness with holes for fastening with eyes.

Sixth step. We make cuts in the middle of each such compartment. From the reverse side of the form we weld the eyes. They will allow temporary fastening of elements to create voids. A very convenient solution - it will be possible to remove the cylinders and make monolithic blocks.

Machine for cinder blocks compact (press from above)

Seventh step. Outside one of the transverse walls, we weld 4 bolts for the mounting holes of the vibration motor.

Eighth step. By welding, we attach an apron and blades along the edges from the loading side.

Ninth step. We prepare all structural elements for painting - we clean them and carefully polish them.

Tenth step. We do a press. It will look like a plate with holes that repeat the location of the holes in the block.

Important! The diameter of the holes on the plate should exceed the same parameter for the recesses in the block by about 0.5 cm.

We make the plate of this size and fix it in such a way that it can go deep into the box at the place where the limiters are installed by 5-7 cm.

In conclusion, it remains to weld the handles to the press, cover the structure with a primer mixture and mount the vibration motor.

An ordinary electric motor can be turned into a suitable vibration motor. To do this, it is necessary to weld eccentrics to the motor shafts. We won’t bother much - we’ll just weld the bolts so that their axes coincide. To regulate the frequency and strength of vibration, we wind the nuts onto the welded bolts.

Making blocks

Recommendations for the preparation of the solution were given above. You can use the standard recipe or modify it to your liking. The main thing to get optimum viscosity. It can be determined "by eye" - a lump of the mixture must hold its shape steadily.

Before loading the mixture, lubricate the contact metal planes with oil. Due to this, the solution will not stick to the iron.

We put the finished mixture in the matrix and proceed to pressing.

We install the filled forms on the vibrating plate and let it compact the solution for 5-15 seconds. After the specified time, add more solution to the form, because. previously loaded will inevitably settle.

We repeat the process, only this time we do not turn off the vibrating plate until the clamp reaches the limiters. We remove the form until the machine stops.

We give the blocks 1-3 days for primary drying, carefully remove them from the blocks, lay them out on a flat horizontal surface and cover with plastic wrap. You can use the material for its intended purpose no earlier than a month later.