Treatment of chipboard from moisture. How to treat the end of chipboard. Chipboard floor on a wooden base

Low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, versatility of use have made them a very popular material. Most common applications: furniture production and construction. The main enemy of these slabs is water - the chips increase in volume, the slab swells, warps and crumbles.

Even at the very beginning of production, sawdust and shavings, after drying, are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing, the surface of the boards is laminated, sometimes even varnished.

But protecting the surface does not prevent the penetration of moisture from the ends through which it enters. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the slab. Consequently, the ends must first be saved from liquid penetration during operation. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the slabs will be much longer.

Why are the ends the starting point for destruction? Yes, because the production of slabs is necessary standard sizes, as well as preparing pieces of material of different sizes, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is compromised.

Thus, chipboard protection from moisture is carried out in three directions:

impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
special surface treatment;
end sealing.

The first step towards moisture resistance

Already at the beginning chipboard production a process is carried out designed to protect them from water penetration - the so-called resinization of chips. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - saturation of the fibers with resins and their gluing. For most of the manufactured boards, formaldehyde resins are used, which by definition are a hydrophobic component of the product.

In cases where even greater moisture resistance is required from the boards, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea-melamine resin. It glues the chips together much more firmly, thereby being a stronger barrier to moisture. With the additional introduction of molten paraffin or its emulsion into the chip carpet, the moisture resistance of the chipboard further increases.

Surface treatment of plates

The front and back surfaces of the slab, as the most large areas contact, without any protection, can pass through and absorb, accordingly, greatest number liquids. It would be a good idea to cover these surfaces with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in factory conditions, some are also possible at home.

One of the main methods of protection is lamination. With it on sanded chipboard with high blood pressure and at high temperatures the melamine film is laid. The essence of this process is not pressing, but the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the slab, becoming one with it.

There is another method that is performed in the factory - laminating. Pressure and heat are also used here, but more gentle. The already hardened film is pressed against the glue-coated slab. If lamination is a chemical process, then laminating is a mechanical process.

At home, non-laminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Before painting, pre-treat the surface:

dust is carefully swept away and washed off the surface;
for the first time, the plate is coated with hot drying oil;
then this is done with cold drying oil until an outer crust forms;
the top is painted. With any painting method, you must remember that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several other ways to protect yourself from getting wet. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical stress can be protected as follows: rub it with stearin, then heat it with a hairdryer. Let cool and repeat this a couple more times. Or: one part of bitumen varnish is mixed with five parts of drying oil. Coating is carried out twice.

Processing joints and edges

Water always looks for the lowest place, the depression. And what, if not a recess, are joints on horizontal planes? There are especially many such joints in cabinet furniture, which is made from chipboard. Kitchen furniture in general is like on the front line: there is plenty of water and enough evaporation. The most susceptible to moisture are the sink, cabinet with dryer, countertop, and furniture near and above the stove.

The taps all start to leak at some point. So, the most potentially dangerous place in the sink is where the faucet crashes into the countertop. This is the point of contact between metal and wood. It is possible not only for the faucet to leak, but also for water to condense at the contact point. Therefore, this place is cleaned and dried with a hairdryer. Next, a layer of PVA glue is applied, after which it dries - silicone. You can use construction sealant, this is also a silicone mass, it even prevents leakage window frames sealed.

In the dish cabinet, you should check the presence or absence of a tray: if it is not there, the liquid, flowing to the bottom of the cabinet, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniture where it is possible to get wet, you need to make it a rule: degrease this area and then do not skimp on the sealant.

To seal the seams, it is better to use sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Non-laminated edges of the tabletop are covered with connecting or end strips. They come in metal or plastic. The protection is not so great, so the end of the tabletop should first be treated with silicone. Another method of protection is to apply it to the cut site. furniture varnish or PVA glue. Proposed construction market self-adhesive films or adhesive tape cannot be called reliable protection.

Sealing chipboard joints on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that the slabs on the floor are constantly subjected to significant physical stress; they “play” relative to each other. For this reason, the putty does not want to stick. There are several folk ways sealing such seams.

The seams are covered with epoxy mixed with sawdust. The sawdust is first finely sifted. The composition sets very quickly, so you should not prepare a large volume of such putty at once. Such protection serves for a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and sealing joints is expensive.

You can replace the epoxy with hot wood glue. You need to mix sawdust in it and go through the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since the hot glue penetrates deep inside. This method also saves from moisture, and the joint stops “playing”. True, it is advisable not to walk on such a floor for several days, since wood glue takes a long time to dry.

This method is much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum on top, then about damage chipboards You can completely forget it.

Chipboard is one of the most affordable building materials, so many are interested in the question of what to impregnate this material from moisture? And, if moisture gets on the floor in the summer low probability, then in winter it is formed in any case. In this article we will give good advice about how and with what to impregnate chipboard from moisture?

Oil varnish or drying oil

In Soviet times the best way was, and now - special impregnating substances. Naturally, this does not mean that you cannot continue to use drying oil as protective agent from moisture. It is allowed to use it, but to achieve high level protection is almost impossible. Yes and necessary large number mixture, and the working procedure will have to be done several times.

Polyurethane mixture

One of the most popular means for treating chipboard is a polyurethane mixture, which is similar in composition to a primer. Impregnation is based on organic solvents and polymers, which, during processing, penetrate deep into the pores of the material. At the same time, the level of strength building material increases significantly.

Nitrocellulose varnish

There is another way chipboard protection from moisture - nitrocellulose varnish. Its protective effect is similar polyurethane varnish: it forms a certain protective coating on the surface of the product, preventing the penetration of moisture, while resistance to damage is equivalent to the maximum value. A significant advantage of nitrocellulose varnish over its predecessor is the application of the substance without preliminary preparation of the workplace, but to achieve best results We strongly recommend priming the chipboard.

To significantly protect chipboard products, you need to use a combined protection method. It is best if it not only consists of an impregnation stage with deep penetration substances, but will also include the application of additional paint and varnish substances.

Popular and in demand building material. It is actively used in the furniture industry, as well as in construction for wall and floor cladding. This love of builders for this material is due to its low cost and excellent properties. Chipboards are boards made from pressed wood chips, the big disadvantage of which is high moisture absorption. Moisture leads to deformation and further destruction of the chipboard. The solution to this problem will be chipboard processing. Let's take a closer look at how to treat chipboard from moisture.

Chipboard processing is carried out in three directions:

chip handling
processing of the front surface of chipboard
chipboard processing - end protection

Chip handling

Such chipboard processing produced at the time of production. For this purpose, shavings for chipboard manufacturing impregnated with formaldehyde resins. Such resins tightly glue the chips together, preventing moisture from penetrating into the interior of the slab. For the same purposes, urea-melamine resins are used; they glue fibers more tightly and, accordingly, have higher water-repellent properties.

Liquid paraffin can also be produced from moisture at the production stage. By saturating the chips with it, you can protect the slab from moisture penetration.

How to treat chipboard from moisture? One of the main and priority issues in the production of this material.

How to protect chipboard from moisture:

lamination. During the lamination process, a melamine film is applied to the prepared and sanded chipboard surface under the influence of high temperature (200 degrees) and high pressure (25 MPa). Surface polymerization occurs. using lamination helps protect the material from moisture, sun rays, temperature changes and various damages.
Laminating. The laminating process is similar to kelp, but is more gentle. in this case, it occurs at a lower temperature (up to 150 degrees) and lower pressure (up to 7 MPa). The film is applied under pressure to the chipboard surface treated with glue. Laminating is less resistant to moisture than lamination, and also suffers from various mechanical influences. The film may peel, swell and crack.
Surface painting. with the help of paint one of the most available methods protecting it from moisture. Using this method, you can process chipboard yourself at home. It is enough to follow a number of simple rules:

Before painting, it is necessary to clean the chipboard from dirt and dust, sand it

2. Then cover with a layer of heated drying oil

4.Now you can proceed to coloring. The paint is applied in several layers, waiting completely dry each of them.

Pasting chipboard with polymer film or polymer plastic. This type of chipboard processing involves applying a protective layer in the form of a film or polymer to the surface of the material. For such purposes, polyvinyl chloride films are most often used. Before sticking it to the surface, you need to clean it thoroughly, because even the smallest particle of dust can ruin it. appearance material unevenness and roughness. Covering chipboard with film is not a durable method of protection. The film has low protective characteristics and suffers from temperature changes.
Chipboard veneering. This method involves covering the chipboard surface with natural veneer. This method is not particularly popular, since veneer is not resistant to mechanical damage. It will be difficult to maintain veneered chipboard.

Chipboard processing - end protection

Another vulnerable place for moisture penetration into chipboards is the ends. Therefore, their processing should be given special attention. How to cover chipboard?

Processing of chipboard on the sides is done using:

PVA glue. The ends are thoroughly coated with glue, allowed to dry and then another layer is applied.

Silicone.

Construction sealant
Furniture varnish
Liquid paraffin

Used for flooring can be done using heated wood glue mixed with sawdust. This is a simple and inexpensive old method.

We hope the information on how to treat chipboard against deformation and moisture will be useful to you.
Irina Zheleznyak, Staff correspondent for the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"

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How to coat and treat chipboard from moisture

The low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, and versatility of use have made them a very popular material. The most common areas of application are furniture production and construction. The main enemy of these slabs is water - the chips increase in volume, the slab swells, warps and crumbles.

The photo shows the effects of water on a chipboard countertop.

Why are the ends the starting point for destruction? Yes, because the production of slabs of the required standard sizes, as well as the preparation of pieces of material of different sizes, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is compromised.

Thus, chipboard protection from moisture is carried out in three directions:

impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
special surface treatment;
end sealing.

The first step towards moisture resistance

Already at the beginning of the production of chipboards, a process is carried out designed to protect them from water penetration - the so-called resinization of chips. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - saturation of the fibers with resins and their gluing. For most of the manufactured boards, formaldehyde resins are used, which by definition are a hydrophobic component of the product.

Green inclusions in chipboard are special water-repellent components

Surface treatment of plates

The front and back surfaces of the slab, as the largest contact areas, without any protection, can pass through and absorb, accordingly, the largest amount of liquid. It would be a good idea to cover these surfaces with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in factory conditions, some are also possible at home.

One of the main methods of protection is lamination. In this case, a melamine film is laid on sanded chipboard at high pressure and high temperature. The essence of this process is not pressing, but the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the slab, becoming one with it.

Components of laminated chipboard

At home, non-laminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Before painting, pre-treat the surface:

dust is carefully swept away and washed off the surface;
for the first time, the plate is coated with hot drying oil;
then this is done with cold drying oil until an outer crust forms;
the top is painted. With any painting method, you must remember that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.

Processing joints and edges

The edge not only protects the chipboard from moisture, but also reduces emissions of harmful substances

To seal the seams, it is better to use sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Non-laminated edges of the tabletop are covered with connecting or end strips. They come in metal or plastic. The protection is not so great, so the end of the tabletop should first be treated with silicone. Another method of protection is to apply furniture varnish or PVA glue to the cut area. Self-adhesive films or tape offered by the construction market cannot be called reliable protection.

Sealing chipboard joints on the floor

You can replace the epoxy with hot wood glue. You need to mix sawdust in it and go through the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since the hot glue penetrates deep inside. This method also saves from moisture, and the joint stops “playing”. True, it is advisable not to walk on such a floor for several days, since wood glue takes a long time to dry.

This method is much cheaper. And if the floor is covered with linoleum on top, then you can completely forget about damage to the chipboards.

How to impregnate chipboard from moisture

Chipboard is one of the most affordable building materials, so many are interested in the question: how to impregnate this material from moisture? And, if in summer there is a low probability of moisture getting on the floor, then in winter it forms in any case. In this article we will give practical advice on how and with what to impregnate chipboard from moisture?

Oil varnish or drying oil

In Soviet times, the best way was oil varnish or drying oil. and now - special impregnating agents. Naturally, this does not mean that you cannot continue to use drying oil as a protective agent against moisture. It is allowed to be used, but achieving a high level of protection is almost impossible. Yes, and a large amount of mixture is needed, and the working procedure will have to be done several times.

Polyurethane mixture

Nitrocellulose varnish

There is another way to protect chipboard from moisture - nitrocellulose varnish. Its protective effect is similar to polyurethane varnish: it forms a kind of protective coating on the surface of the product, preventing the penetration of moisture, while resistance to damage is equivalent to the maximum value. A significant advantage of nitrocellulose varnish over its predecessor is the application of the substance without prior preparation of the workplace, but to achieve better results we strongly recommend priming the chipboard.

To significantly protect chipboard products, you need to use a combined protection method. It is best if it not only consists of an impregnation stage with deep penetration of the substance, but also includes the application of additional paints and varnishes.

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Methods for treating chipboard from moisture

Chipboard is an excellent construction material, but is not very attractive in comparison with wood, and is also particularly susceptible to the influence of factors external environment. Products made from chipboard receive certain protection during the manufacturing process. For this, all kinds of impregnations and additives are used. However, under intensive operating conditions, such factory measures are not enough, so it is recommended to further protect the material. About how to protect chipboard and also process it finishing materials, will be discussed below.

Surface treatment of plates

Facial and inner part slabs have the largest areas, so if they are not protected, they absorb the most moisture. At the same time as protection, you can decorate the material. Below are several such techniques.

Lamination

The lamination process involves finishing chipboard with paper-resin films. The lining is carried out at high temperature (150-200 degrees) and high pressure (25-30 MPa). The protective and decorative layer occurs due to the spreading of hot resin over the surface. The resin then polymerizes, forming a hard, uniform coating.

If complied with process, there is a reliable adhesion between the chipboard and the resin. During lamination, a certain surface texture is created - usually glossy or “wood-like”. Laminated surfaces are resistant to mechanical stress, moisture, ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures.

Laminating

During lamination, the chipboard is covered with an adhesive layer, on which hard paper-resin unvarnished films are then placed. The difference between lamination and lamination is that when laminating, the decorative coating is glued to the slab in finished form. For example, wood grain embossing is done in advance. Such films are called “finishing films”.

As in the case of lamination, when processing material using the lamination method, increased pressure and high temperature. However, the parameters in this case are more gentle: temperature - from 20 to 150 degrees, pressure - from 5 to 7 MPa.

The disadvantage of laminating is that the coating is unstable to mechanical stress and moisture. This surface is easily scratched and swollen. Lamination is used mainly in the manufacture of inexpensive furniture, as well as for the production of parts that are not subject to aggressive influences. environment(for example, the back walls of a cabinet).

Paint coating

A non-laminated chipboard sheet can be coated with several layers of paint and varnish material. Sequence of work on chipboard staining is presented below:

remove dust and dirt from the sheet;
coat the chipboard sheet with heated drying oil;
coat the sheet again, but this time with cold drying oil (a thin crust should appear);
apply the first layer of paint;
After the first layer has dried, apply the second.

Finishing with paper-laminated polymers

Laminated plastic is a polymer in which there are niches for filler. Fabric, paper, veneer and other materials are used as filler. The basis for the manufacture of paper-laminated filler is paper. It acts as a reinforcing layer, and also gives the layered polymer ductility, strength and visual appeal.

Finishing begins with cutting chipboard sheets of the required size. Using compressed air and brushes, dirt and dust are removed from the sheets. If contamination is not removed before painting, high-quality adhesion will not work.

Pasting facing material is carried out by direct pressing of a paper-laminated polymer, onto which glue and chipboard are previously applied. Pressing can be done hot (using adhesives based on urea or PVA) or cold (using contact adhesives PVA dispersion). In practice, cold pressing is not used very often, since the process requires large areas and the productivity is relatively low.

The finishing is completed by postforming. The task is to give the plastic bends and other irregular shapes. The process is carried out on special equipment at elevated temperatures.

Pasting with polymer films

The process of applying polymer films is similar to decorative cladding plastics. The difference lies in the materials used. In this case we are talking about a thermoplastic film applied by pressing to chipboard treated with an adhesive composition.

For chipboard finishing PVC films are used. Polystyrene and acrylic films are occasionally used.

Finishing with polymer films is carried out on the same technological equipment, on which finishing materials such as veneer or paper-laminated polymers are applied. The cladding process can be either hot or cold.

The advantage of cladding using the polymer method is the ability to process profile parts. However, the use of polymer films has limited potential, since the coating does not have high physical and mechanical properties and is also unstable to temperature influences.

Vacuum pressing

Vacuum (or, as it is otherwise called, membrane) pressing is a technological process during which furniture is covered with decorative film. The main advantage of the method is the ability to coat parts of complex shapes.

For example, using membrane pressing you can veneer furniture self made with all kinds of recesses, cutouts, miniature parts, etc. The part is placed in vacuum press, where a heated polyvinyl chloride film fits tightly around it, repeating the surface relief.

Veneering

The correct name for the process is veneering. However, the term “veneering” is often used in everyday life. Natural veneer can be used to decorate both chipboard and furniture board. Veneered furniture is of higher quality than laminated furniture. However, maintaining the safety of veneered furniture is quite difficult, since veneer is not as durable as laminate.

Table top made of chipboard or MDF

For finishing chipboard sheet or MDF you will need plastic (laminated paper, polycarbonate, polystyrene).

Work progress:

We cut out the necessary parts from the chipboard and connect them with a stapler.
The joints between the chipboard base parts must be identical. If this is not the case, smooth them out with sandpaper.
We make facings for the ends.
We cut the facing part using a grinder.
We glue the finishing material and secure it with light blows of a rubber hammer.
We install the end trim level with the bottom edge of the tabletop.
At the same time, coat the base and apron with glue.
When installing laminate flooring, we use separators. After installing the sheet, remove the dividers.
Smooth the surface with a roller.
Using a router, cut a hole under the sink.
When the structure is assembled, we sand all the edges.

Protection of joints and edges

Any liquid always seeks and finds the lowest place on the surface. The joints are recesses and are therefore vulnerable to water penetration. There are a considerable number of joints in cabinet furniture, where the main structural material is chipboard.

Because of high humidity and frequent contact with liquids is especially vulnerable kitchen furniture. The sink, countertop, and furniture next to the stove are the most frequently moistened pieces of furniture in the house. An example is the part of the countertop that is in contact with the mixer. Sooner or later, the faucet leaks, which means that unprotected chipboard will inevitably begin to get wet and collapse.

To protect the joints, we first clean these places and dry them with a hairdryer. Then we apply PVA glue to the joints, and when it dries, we treat the protected surface with silicone or, alternatively, construction sealant.

If there is no tray in the cupboard, then sooner or later the liquid draining from the wet dishes will destroy the chipboard. Therefore, the material must be degreased and then treated with a sealant.

We seal the seams with sanitary silicone in the color of the furniture. This will prevent mold from growing on the furniture.

In those places on the edges of the tabletop where there is no lamination, we install end or connecting strips. These elements can be made of metal or plastic. Planks are not perfect protection, so the edges still need to be pre-treated with sealant. Another common method of protecting chipboard is applying PVA glue or furniture varnish to the edges.

Protection of joints on the floor

The main difficulty in protecting joints on the floor is that such slabs are subject to increased mechanical loads and constantly shift slightly under load. Because of this, the putty does not adhere well to the chipboard.

To ensure protection of joints on the floor, the seams are treated epoxy resin, mixed with sawdust. Moreover, the sawdust must be very fine - it must be sifted in advance.

Pay attention! The epoxy-sawdust composition sets extremely quickly. Based on this, you should not mix too much putty at once.

A mixture of epoxy and sawdust will reliably protect the joints, but the cost of such a solution is quite high. You can replace epoxy resin with wood glue. You need to add sawdust to the hot glue, and then treat the seams with the resulting composition. If done correctly, the effect will be even better than when treated with epoxy resin, since the glue penetrates deeper.

After processing the seams, the chipboard joints will become more resistant to moisture and, just as important, they will stop “playing” with each other. If you decorate the chipboard with linoleum, you no longer have to worry about the safety of the slabs.

After processing the seams, it will take several days for the putty to dry. At this time, you cannot walk on the slabs so as not to disturb the joints.

Coating chipboard with protective and finishing materials in many cases requires certain experience and qualifications, and sometimes even the presence special equipment. If you are not sure about own strength, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

Primer for chipboard

Personal website - how to prime chipboard

How to prime chipboard?

Chipboard can be primed with a regular primer. If the chipboard structure is located in a dry room, then any primer will be suitable for priming the chipboard. If the chipboard is exposed to moisture, it must be treated with a moisture-resistant primer, which contains additives that protect the chipboard from destruction by microorganisms. Available on the market wide range, a primer that will protect chipboard from destruction in wet rooms, such as a bathroom, kitchen, or shared bathroom. Primers of this type are represented by the brands “Tex”, “Tikkurila”, “Neomid”, “Eskaro” and others trademarks. It is best to prime the chipboard twice on all sides, for reliability. Primer compositions form a polymer film. This film with additives will protect the chipboard from destruction.

How to putty on chipboard?

After the chipboard surfaces have been primed, they need to be puttied. Since the surface of the chipboard is rough, but you want to make it smooth and beautiful, so that it pleases the eye, you need to putty the chipboard. For puttying chipboard, ordinary dry putty is suitable. final leveling. Putty is applied to chipboard in two stages. The first time the surface of the chipboard is puttied to cover all the irregularities. The second time it is puttied to eliminate minor defects. If necessary, you can putty a third time. You can putty the second time with oil-adhesive putty. Can be puttied with latex putty. When puttying chipboard with latex putty or oil-adhesive putty, the surface will be smoother than putty with regular dry putty. Regular putty is easier to sand sandpaper. If you putty the chipboard with latex putty or oil-glue carelessly, then sanding the putty surface of the chipboard will take more time. Therefore, it is recommended to putty the first layer with ordinary putty, and the second after sanding the first, with latex. If the surface of the chipboard is smooth, then you can putty it with oil-glue and latex putty twice. If you carefully putty the chipboard with oil-adhesive putty or latex putty, you will hardly need to sand the surface. If chipboard is puttied with latex putty, the surface will be less exposed to moisture.

How to paint chipboard?

After priming and puttying, chipboard can be painted with any paint. What paint and varnish materials You can cover the surface with chipboard.

Untreated chipboard can be coated with water-based or alkyd-based varnish. But before coating the chipboard with varnish, it is necessary to treat it with a primer that is suitable for varnish. Only in this way does the varnish manufacturer guarantee the reliability of the coating. Thus, before varnishing chipboard, you need to learn about primer compositions. Mostly primers are provided by foreign manufacturers.

Domestic varnish PF (pentophthalic) can be applied without a primer. On the other hand, if the chipboard is not very good quality, or old chipboard, it must be primed before applying varnish. You can make the primer yourself. Dilute with 50% varnish and 50% white spirit. You will get about a liter of liquid for priming chipboard. A liter of such primer is enough to prime 15 square meters or even more. It all depends on humidity, air temperature, atmospheric pressure and the condition of the chipboard. After priming the chipboard, you must allow time for the surface to dry.

After drying, you can apply the first layer of alkyd or varnish to the water based, i.e. acrylic, latex. It all depends on the goals you are pursuing. For example, PF varnish (aka Pentophthalic) makes the surface translucent. Acrylic or latex based varnish makes the surface less transparent.

A chipboard surface that is coated with PF will be more transparent than one that is coated with acrylic or latex-based varnish.

The advantages of acrylic and latex-based varnishes are that they are impact-resistant, which cannot be said about Pentophthalic and Alkyd-based varnishes.

Chipboard can be covered decorative plaster, can be covered with decorative putty. Any patterns can be applied, it all depends on the goals. There is a whole set of tools for such purposes. Special rollers, sponges, brushes, spatulas. On the other hand, texture can be created using any available means.

Decorative plaster or decorative putty applied to chipboard can be varnished. So that the decor does not collapse and the color of the decor does not fade.

Chipboard can be painted with regular paint alkyd paint, any color. Can be painted with water-based enamel.

Primers - types and properties

A primer is a mixture that contains a binder. By type of binder primers are divided into: acrylic, epoxy, polyurethane.

Acrylic the primer can be used for all surfaces (screed, concrete, wood, chipboard, fiberboard, etc.). This primer is diluted with water, has no odor and dries in 2-4 hours.

Epoxy And polyurethane Primers are used to ensure good adhesion of the materials being laid to the base and to reduce the porosity of the base.

In the process of installing floors, primers are used to treat all kinds of screeds, concrete and cement floors, painted and unpainted wooden bases, stone coatings and ceramic tiles, as well as for self-leveling mixtures.

It is also necessary to highlight the protective properties of primers, such as preventing the appearance of rust, salt stains, and mold.

A whole range of primers with special properties are produced:

suitable for heated floors;
electrically conductive (electrically conductive coatings can be laid on this primer using antistatic adhesives);
to impart water-repellent properties to the surface.

Description of the properties of Bamard primers

UZIN-PE 260 Has white. It has adhesive properties and does not allow water to pass through. Dries within 2-24 hours. 100-150 Dispersion primer for treating substrates made of chipboard, fiberboard, wood and with firmly adhered glue residues, asphalt and magnesite screeds. Used for interior works. When processing absorbent cement screeds You can use a mixture diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.

UZIN-PE 260L Has a black color. Has electrical resistance

Usadba primer for fiberboard, chipboard, plywood for painting, 2.5 kg - products » buy

PRIMER for fiberboard, chipboard, plywood, 2.5 kg

The composition stabilizes the absorbency of porous wood, fiberboard, chipboard, plywood, significantly reducing paint consumption. Provides reliable adhesion of highly absorbent wood surfaces to alkyd, oil enamels, acrylic compounds, water-based paints. Contains fungicidal and insecticidal additives that prevent the formation of rot and mold on the treated surface. After using the PRIMER, it is enough to apply one coat of paint to obtain an optimal painting result, which allows you to reduce paint consumption by at least 3 times. Increases the service life of the painted layer.

The surface to be treated must be dry (humidity no more than 20%), cleaned with a brush from peelings and dust, including wood. Carefully remove peeling varnish and oil coatings with a spatula. The PRIMER can be applied with a brush or roller, thoroughly saturating the surface. To obtain an optimal result, processing in 1 layer is sufficient. Operate at air temperatures above +5°C.

Water, acrylic latex, tannin inhibitor, functional additives.

Store the composition in a hermetically sealed container from the manufacturer, in a dry room at an air temperature of +5 to +30°C. Shelf life: 3 years.

Oil varnish or drying oil

In Soviet times, the best way was, but now - special impregnating substances. Naturally, this does not mean that you cannot continue to use drying oil as a protective agent against moisture. It is allowed to be used, but achieving a high level of protection is almost impossible. Yes, and a large amount of mixture is needed, and the working procedure will have to be done several times.