How to polish varnish after painting wood. How to polish the varnished surface of a car after painting How to polish furniture varnish

One of the main things is polishing the varnish after painting the car. To be more precise, you will first have to grind and only then can you begin polishing work. Polishing work does not begin immediately after painting. Usually it should take about three weeks.

Preparatory stage

Work should start with preparatory work. To do this you need:

Carry out a thorough car wash;
dismantle or cover available material parts that will not be polished;
blow compressed air onto the polished panels;
perform degreasing.

Important! For degreasing, you need to use a special solvent or anti-silicone.

The last two points are best done in a pre-prepared garage or other suitable room. When all this is completed, you can begin performing further procedures.

About sanding body panels

After complete drying, when the surface of the car is sufficiently hard, you can begin the grinding procedure. It cannot be accomplished without the necessary tool And consumables. You will need:

a grinding machine with adjustable disk rotation speed;
block of rubber or hardwood;
dishes with water;
polishing wheels, they should be of different hardness, soft and dense;
clean, soft, lint-free cloth.
sheets of abrasive paper, with a grain size ranging from 1500-3000 units;
polishing pastes with or without abrasive, as well as for final polishing.

Now we can talk about how to polish the varnish on a car after painting.

About the technology of work

Polishing of varnish is carried out either using a special tool or by hand. In the second case, bars made of rubber, wood, or felt are used, which are wrapped with sanding paper of selected grain size.

Advice! There is no need to apply excessive force so as not to remove the “extra” layer of coating.

Polishing the body after varnishing with sanding pads is just the initial stage when minor defects are eliminated after painting the body. It is best to carry out the work using the “wet” method, that is, instead of sanding, the varnish is poured with water. The sandpaper should also be periodically moistened with liquid to remove adhering particles.

About polishing

Let's look at how to polish car varnish. This procedure may consist of two stages:

polishing with abrasives;
applying a protective layer.

The first type of work is designed to perform very precise sanding to achieve perfect smoothness. How to polish the varnish on a car depends on what paint is used to paint the vehicle body. The most thorough and high-quality processing Dark-colored bodies must be subjected to.

The layer of varnish that can be applied to the body can be approximately 35-40 microns thick. With such a thickness of varnish, 6 to 8 polishing operations can be performed. Polishing thin varnish on a car is done with pastes, which can be based on wax, silicone, etc. polymer composition. There are many such formulations available in retail chains. The greatest durability belongs to compositions based on epoxy resins.

Also gaining popularity are car polishes made using “ liquid glass" The unique composition of this polish allows you to visit a contactless car wash more than 50 times. It has a number of other advantages. For example, it repels water and dirt well from varnish, and also long time retains color and shine paint coating. There is no need to use a polishing machine for polishing. Among the shortcomings, one, but very significant, can be noted, this is the high cost of polish.

How to polish ceramic varnish

Lately, varnishes that are commonly called ceramic have begun to gain popularity among car owners. In fact, they never contained ceramics. The composition of this product is carefully hidden by manufacturers, but something is known about them. Manufacturers managed to invent a varnish composition that began to interfere with the abrasion process; it quickly restores the lost shine of the paint coating after minor damage.

This became possible due to the presence of solid particles in the top layer of the coating varnish. They are designed to provide obstacles when attempting to scratch. There is still talk among drivers that this is due to ceramic particles. This conclusion is incorrect, since the high performance of the material was obtained after a strong crystal lattice was obtained. With its production, it became possible to form a strong elastic film.

It will not be possible to polish car bodies coated with such varnish with ordinary polishes, so manufacturers have developed a number of products for polishing such coatings. One of them is the Polar Shine polishing system, which was developed and manufactured by Mirka.

There are two types of such products on sale: C20 and A12. The first is a coarse polishing paste, it is designed to work with two-stage polishing systems such as Polarshine. The A12 product is used for one-stage paint treatment when there are small or minor scratches on the surface of the car body. It can well restore lost qualities; you just need to change the polishing disc in a timely manner.

In addition to these products, you can successfully use the Farecla system paste; it is available in several types and is used for polishing both completely new coatings and car bodies with many years of use. You can also find polishing complexes from Festool, and some other materials.

The purpose of this article is to give car owners an idea of how to polish the varnish on a car. If you still have unclear questions on this topic, watch the video:

Polished furniture has a very “ceremonial” appearance. It is quite specific, but many people like it. The difficulty is that it is easy to spoil a shiny surface, but it is difficult to restore its attractiveness. Often the only solution is to polish the furniture.

The most common problem is scratches. You can still get rid of small ones using polishes with special properties. Deep ones, with damage right down to the wood or veneer, can only be removed by new polishing (if it is old Soviet-era furniture coated with nitro varnish). To do this, first completely remove all the old coating, then apply varnish and sand the entire part. That is, polishing furniture - new or old - occurs according to the same algorithm, with the only difference being that the old layer of varnish has to be removed.

If the product is newer, it is most likely covered with a thick layer of varnish. If the scratch is deep, but does not reach the veneer or wood, the situation is somewhat simpler. First, the scratched layer is cleaned off with 80 and 120 grit sandpaper. Then it is sanded with increasingly finer grains. Next, one or two layers of varnish are applied and, after drying, polished.

Another case when furniture polishing may be required is when the varnish becomes cloudy or yellowing. This happens often. Treatment is also difficult -complete removal old varnish and applying new with polishing. Problems with all other traces that cannot be removed are solved in the same way. by ordinary means ().

One more point: furniture polishing is done only and exclusively in a horizontal position. To do this, you often have to take everything apart. It's difficult, but there is no other way out. You can only work on a horizontal surface.

Pre-grinding

Polishing furniture is a long process and it begins with sanding. First, all cracks and other defects are covered with wood putty of a suitable color. After it has completely dried (the period is indicated on the label), sanding begins.

A sander is best for polishing wood or veneer. Tape or disk is a matter of taste and preference; it also depends on the complexity of the furniture shape. You will also need a set of sandpaper from coarse (80) to very fine (1200) grit.

In extreme cases, an angle grinder with a special attachment (disc and Velcro) may be suitable. But when working with it, it is difficult to achieve a really good result - there is no required mobility of the sanding platform, so the result of such wood polishing will not be above average.

We start sanding with 80 grit. We use it carefully, removing only large irregularities. Then we repeat the treatment with sandpaper at 120, then at 180 and 240. During the work, we must periodically remove dust and inspect the surface to identify unevenness and other defects. sometimes they are better identified by touch.

Then take water and 320 grit sandpaper. Wet the surface to be sanded and the sandpaper. We sand everything again, but this time with water. At this stage, you should get a good result - everything should be smooth. If everything is satisfactory, we move on; if not, we polish it for some more time.

Primer

It is necessary to prime wooden and veneered surfaces so that the varnish lays more evenly. When sanding, we opened most of the pores and released some of the fibers. If you immediately coat them with varnish, it will be absorbed unevenly, causing the surface to become stained. The primer closes most of the pores, so the varnish will lay more evenly.

Priming veneered furniture can be done in two ways. The first is quick, but accompanied by a strong odor. You need to take nitro varnish or polyurethane varnish, dilute it by 10-20% (depending on the initial thickness), and cover the surface.

The second method of priming is long, but correct and almost odorless. We take epoxy glue and a soft cloth swab. Better - flannel, preferably - white so that it does not fade or change the color of the furniture. Use this swab to rub the epoxy into the veneer.

While everything is drying, dust will definitely stick to the surface. It needs to be removed. This again can be done in two ways: scraping and grinding. If using a scraper, take a sharp blade (you can use a wallpaper knife) and use it to clean off all the excess. To avoid damaging the veneer, move the blade along the grain. With sanding everything is known: sandpaper with 320 grit and water. The prepared surface is cleaned of dust, washed with water, and dried. After drying, you can apply varnish.

In fact, further polishing of the furniture may not be necessary. Already at this stage the product looks decent.

Applying varnish

Let's talk about which varnishes are best to use. The best are considered alkyd (Tikkurila Unika-super series), polyurethane and water-polymer (good ones are Swedish Bask).

Despite the lack of odor, the varnish water based- not the best best choice for the first varnishing experience. Essentially it is a water-based suspension. But it is far from being as harmless as is commonly believed. Water-based varnishes contain very harmful solvents, albeit in small quantities. It’s just that the usual acetone and others cannot keep such a composition in a stable state. So we have to use much “cooler” solvents.

This is by the way, but the reason is essentially different - difficulties during processing. When applying varnish, water is absorbed into the wood fibers and they rise. As a result, after the first treatment, the surface is far from smooth, but very rough. This effect is especially pronounced on pine products. So after the first layer of water-based varnish has dried, take an angle grinder or grinder, attach 320-grit sandpaper to it and sand it until smooth. If you're lucky, the next layer will lie flat and the pile won't rise again; if not, you'll have to repeat the operation again. The situation is not fatal, of course, but unpleasant. This does not happen with other varnishes.

How to apply varnish

Now a little about how to apply varnish. Professionals believe that the best method is spraying from a spray gun. This may be true, but not all home craftsmen have such a device, and you also need to be able to work with a spray gun. Among manual application methods, a popular method is application with a piece of foam rubber (or a new kitchen sponge) or a fabric swab (soft, white, lint-free fabric). To decide, you need to try what is more convenient for you, how it turns out smoother (if it works out at all).

The next method is with a small foam roller. Suitable if a simple shaped surface is being varnished without small parts (door leaf, For example).

Applying varnish with a brush is the most unpopular method

The use of brushes when varnishing furniture, oddly enough, is in last place. The fact is that it is difficult to evenly apply a layer of varnish in this way. You need a good brush with soft, thick, natural bristles, which should not tangle under any circumstances.

Technology

Regardless of the chosen method of applying varnish, its layers should be thin and of uniform thickness. Take a little product onto a brush/sponge/roller/tampon and rub it over the surface as thoroughly as possible. Next time we dip it in varnish only after the “weapon” no longer leaves any traces. In this way we cover the entire surface and leave to dry.

The applied layer of varnish does not dry completely, but the time indicated on the packaging of the varnish in the column “tack-free” or “application of the next layer”. On average, for water-based varnishes it is 1 hour, for alkyd varnishes - 5 hours. The next layer is applied using the same technique. The total number of layers is usually from 5 to 9, depending on the quality of the veneer and preliminary sanding. When the surface becomes absolutely flat, the varnish is dried until completely dry- 2-3 days. After this, sanding begins again.

Sanding the varnish

The process is the same as during preparation, only we use sandpapers with a finer grain - starting from 400. Be sure to sand with water - moisten the surface and sandpaper. Having finished processing, we attach sandpaper with 600 grain, then with 1000 and 1200.

This stage is the last one before actual polishing. After this treatment, the surface should be absolutely flat, uniform, without defects.

Furniture polishing

Final stage - finishing polishing paste. To do this you will need polishing paste. You can use furniture ones, but automobile ones are more often used. Any one that does not contain wax is suitable (for example, “Anticirapin”). Good results are given by those that contain at least a small percentage of Teflon. They also smooth out small scratches and irregularities.

Polishing furniture after applying varnish takes less time than all others. For this stage you will need natural felt - they use it to rub the paste over the surface. In order not to work manually, a felt circle cut to size is attached to the Velcro of a sander or angle grinder. Apply paste to the surface to be polished, turn on the sander at maximum speed and bring the furniture to the desired level of shine. With good preparation, it is possible to obtain a mirror surface.

Car polishing. Click on photo to enlarge.

To add an irresistible shine to a freshly painted car and deepen the color, you need to polish it. Polishing the varnish of a car surface after the painting procedure differs from conventional polishing by applying wax, since this is a complex work during which various car cosmetics and equipment are used. As a result of correctly performed work, all scratches and irregularities are eliminated from the surface of the car, and it becomes perfectly smooth. In addition, the varnish protects vehicles from the effects of adverse external factors.

It is important to remember that polishing is not done immediately after painting. The paint and varnish need to dry and harden well, which may take approximately 3 weeks. During this time, the varnish will settle a little, and defects in the repair will immediately become noticeable in the form of dips, scratches, and shagreen. Identified defects must be eliminated by grinding and only after this can you begin to polish the car - similar situation especially relevant for black cars and other dark shades.

The garage in which polishing will be performed must be prepared. The room must be clean, otherwise it will get under the varnish sandpaper, which can lead to serious damage to the enamel and varnish. Direct influence is also unacceptable sun rays at the time of polishing, since under their influence the polish dries too quickly.

In addition, the issue of lighting is extremely important. It is best to use lamps daylight, installed both above (under the ceiling) and below (at knee level). It is possible that you will have to additionally use a portable lamp.

Preparing the work surface

Before polishing the varnish applied to the body after painting, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the car. To do this you need to do the following:

thoroughly wash the car from dust and dirt;
Cover elements that will not be polished with masking tape (if possible, it is better to dismantle them altogether);
To remove dust residues, blow off the car, special attention devote to hard-to-reach places;
degrease the body surface.

If the first two procedures can be carried out even on the street, then the last ones can only be done in a prepared room, where polishing will subsequently be carried out. After all the procedures have been completed, you must begin the main task.

Body sanding

Tools. Click on the photo to enlarge.

Before polishing begins, the car undergoes thorough sanding, but only on condition that all layers of coating are completely dry. They must be hard so as not to deform during grinding, and the abrasive should not quickly become “greasy.”

plane or rubber block;
grinding machine with disk speed controller;
clean water container;
polishing wheels – dense (light shade) and soft (dark shade);
a piece of clean cloth.

Materials:

sandpaper with an index from 1,500 to 3,000 (depending on shagreen and the quality of painting);
polishing paste (abrasive, non-abrasive and finishing);

Surface grinding can be done using a special tool or manually. In the second case they use sanding paper, which is wrapped around a felt or rubber block. Exactly like this homemade instrument and the procedure is performed. Movements should be uniform and smooth; do not apply strong pressure to the surface. But polishing with a block is only the initial stage for comparing shagreen, smudges and eliminating debris that accidentally gets into the varnish (specks of dust, small insects, etc.). After this, you need to completely mat the surface by hand.

As it wears and gets salted, the skin needs to be changed. If the car part small size and with a rounded surface, then it should be sanded without a whetstone. The grooves, openings and narrow spots are sanded by hand.

The procedure can be performed in two ways: wet and dry. In the dry method, the car body is wetted with water or another inert solvent. Periodically, the sanding paper is also moistened to remove dust and contaminants. This technique helps reduce dust formation, improves the grinding process and extends the service life of the working tool.

If the car has a nitro varnish coating, then use waterproof sandpaper moistened with white spirit. Grinding wet method Can only be used for waterproof body coatings:

melamine alkyd;
oil-varnish;
epoxy;
nitrocellulose.

Sanding will be easy only if the surface is completely dry and the material is prepared correctly. After completion of the procedure, the surface of the body becomes smooth and even. The polished car must be rinsed with water and wiped dry. soft cloth and let it dry at a temperature of 18-20°C. Only then can the quality of the work be assessed. To do this, use an electric lamp, which illuminates the surface from the side during inspection.

The main thing is not to get too carried away and not to rub off the varnish in some place, since after this the part will have to be painted again. You should work especially carefully with the ends - it will be enough to simply wipe them with sandpaper 1-2 times.

Polishing process

Abrasive polishing of the varnish, which is performed after painting the car, eliminates surface defects and its dullness, giving the paint richness and shine. The process can be done manually or using a polishing device. An abrasive paste is used, which is applied to small areas of the surface and rubbed in thoroughly. It is worth noting that manual polishing is performed in a circular motion, while mechanized polishing is performed in a cross-shaped manner, i.e. vertically and horizontally. However, manual polishing is almost never used nowadays - only with the help of a grinding machine.

You need to polish your car with different pastes. During initial deep polishing, a coarse abrasive paste is used, then they switch to a fine abrasive one, and finally use a paste without abrasive. For cars of dark colors, the use of a non-abrasive paste after finishing polishing is mandatory, since flaws in the painting and varnishing are visible on their surface. If the car is silver in color, then a fine abrasive paste will be enough.

Polishing with abrasive paste allows you to achieve excellent result. Depending on the abrasiveness of the paste, it is important to choose a polishing wheel. It is made from foam rubber of different densities. If you select the wrong paste and polishing wheel, the surface of the car and the wheel itself may be damaged. Ideally, you need to purchase 2 circles - dense and soft. First, the surface is passed in a tight circle, after which a soft circle is placed.

If you plan to polish the body using a machine, it is important to remember that the surface being treated should not overheat. To prevent this, the number of revolutions of the device cannot exceed 2500. Many craftsmen exceed this speed threshold, quite significantly and there is nothing wrong with that. But in this case, you need to avoid rubbing in one place for a long time, so as not to overheat the varnish. In such a situation, the circle literally “gets stuck” in the varnish.

As with stripping, you should polish the ends very carefully so as not to rub them. The circle must be periodically cleaned of adhering paste. In addition, you should not completely polish the shagreen - the part will appear “bald”, and problems will arise with re-polishing (after some time).

After polishing with the machine is completed, it is necessary to pass the car with another paste in order to remove the holograms that arise from the rapid rotation of the polishing wheel. To do this, polish is applied to large plot parts and rubs it with a piece of fabric in a circular motion.
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The final stage is protective polishing of the body. When performed, the smallest scratches that remain after using abrasive polishing are eliminated, and a thin protective layer. Its existence will directly depend on the polish used.

There are two types of protective polish. Wax-based - washed off from the body surface after 4-6 washes, or Teflon-based - a more expensive, but also durable polish, which is washed off after 12 washes.

Knowing exactly how to polish the varnish on the surface of a car after painting it with a Teflon-based product, you can ensure gloss for a long time. Teflon polish creates effective surface protection and protects it from the harmful effects of acids, alkalis and other aggressive substances. In addition, the Teflon contained in the polish has an antistatic effect, and, as a result, the car remains clean longer.

The polish is applied using a soft cloth, after which it is lightly rubbed over the body until a uniform layer is formed, which is allowed to dry for 4-5 minutes. As a result, the surface becomes matte white. Next, polishing is performed using a machine or manually. During the mechanized process, it is important to monitor the speed of rotation of the disk and periodically interrupt the work so that the surface of the body does not overheat.

For polishing a car after painting it large number manufacturers offer all kinds of equipment and car cosmetics. It is recommended to give preference to well-known brands. Of course, their products will cost an order of magnitude higher, but it is with their help that the best results can be achieved.

You have used the correct finishing compounds and applied them correctly. A durable protective film has formed on the surface of the product, and you love the way it looks. What to do next? Perhaps nothing. In some cases it's time to endure finished project from the workshop so everyone could see it. However, most often last layer the coating is not good enough for you to be proud of your work. By carefully examining the surfaces with your eyes and fingertips, you can easily detect dried dust particles, shagreen or roughness. Get rid of these defects by polishing. This operation consists of leveling the coating film and giving it the desired degree of gloss using fine abrasives. You can achieve a perfectly smooth, glass-like surface using a simple technique similar to sanding the underlying wood. We can't let you touch the finished surface with a polished varnish film, but you can see the difference by comparing photos A and B.

First of all, you need to polish products with surfaces located in plain sight, which are often touched. These include table tops and doors. Start honing your skills on them. Polishing is not difficult and is more than worth the effort.

First, let's list the polishing methods

COATING POLISHING METHODS
Coverage type	Alignment	Matte or semi-matte gloss	Mirror gloss
Oil or oil-varnish polish	Waterproof sandpaper No. 320 and finishing composition as a lubricant	Polishing with white abrasive pads and wax paste	Unattainable
Polyurethane, alkyd-oil varnish, water-based compositions
Nitrolac and shellac	Waterproof 600-grit sandpaper or white abrasive pads for random orbital sander	Polishing with a wool roller with polish or white abrasive pads with wax paste	After obtaining a silky-matt shine, polish with wool and a fine polishing paste or sandpaper №800-1500

First a necessary condition for polishing is a coating film, which must be thick enough so as not to rub through it. To do this, the previous finishing stage requires correctly applying several thin layers of varnish. In addition, patience is required. Allow the film to fully harden before polishing. Remember that it is impossible to add shine to a film that is not sufficiently hard and elastic. Depending on the finishing compounds used, film thickness, temperature and humidity, drying of the coating can last for a month.

If you want to achieve a mirror gloss, it is especially important that the surface of the wood under the varnish is perfectly smooth. Fill open wood with a special filler paste or use a wet sanding method.

You will need various abrasives (photo C). All abrasive materials create small marks-scratches on the surface of the film; the size of these marks affects the reflection of light by the surface (Fig. 1). The finer the abrasive particles, the smaller and finer the scratches and the more shiny the surface will be. Large abrasive particles will leave rough scratches and the surface will have a dull shine. A highly polished gloss varnish looks like glass, reflecting light and surrounding objects.

Any other varnish contains some amount of matting additives, mainly in the form of small particles of silica. These additives reflect light in different directions, giving the coating a soft shine. You can reduce the gloss level of the coating, but you will not be able to make a matte varnish as shiny as a glossy one, so you should determine the desired level of gloss in advance and choose the appropriate finishing composition.

Glossy varnish provides more options. Its shine can be easily reduced to matte. If you decide that you have overdone it, you can restore it to its original gloss. Remember that on surfaces that are not too shiny, coating defects become less noticeable, but on glossy surfaces they appear clearly. To obtain a mirror gloss, the coating film must be very hard. Such a film can be obtained using shellac or nitro varnish for finishing. Polyurethane, pentaphthalic and water-based varnishes produce a softer, more flexible film and, as a rule, cannot be polished to high degree shine. The surface will, at best, be semi-matte with a slight silky sheen. Oil-based varnishes and oil-varnish polishes almost always remain matte, with only a slight increase in shine.

Grinding and polishing: if done correctly it's quite simple

Start mastering the polishing technique from the very beginning. simple way. Apply a layer of wax paste to the surface finished with oil-varnish polish. When the coating is completely dry, use a soft non-woven swab to spread a paste of soft beeswax and hard carnauba wax over the surface (photo D). By rubbing the paste, you smooth out all traces of dust particles, making the surface smooth and pleasant to the touch.

Photos: A – B: When spray coatings are applied, surfaces often develop a so-called shagreen pattern, resembling the skin of an orange (left). You can make such a surface smooth and shiny by polishing (right). C: Polishing pastes can be found in auto care stores, wool rollers and sandpaper in hardware stores, and felt blocks, Abralon discs, abrasive sponges and pads in specialty stores that sell everything needed for a professional finish. D: Minor scratches on a walnut table finished with an oil-varnish polish can be buffed out with non-woven abrasive pads using Briwax dark brown wax. E: When dry sanding nitro varnish with fine-grained paper, the top layer of the film turns into white dust. Change the paper frequently to avoid getting greasy. When finished sanding, clean the surface with a cloth or compressed air.

The likelihood of rubbing through the coating film is low, and the product acquires a soft, radiant shine. Surfaces finished with shellac, nitro varnish or alkyd-oil varnish usually have more defects than those coated with oil-varnish varnish. Often you can find specks of dust, brush marks, bubbles and drips. If the defects are minor, polishing will be as simple as in the previous case. At the same time, numerous microscopic scratches are created on the surface of the film, giving the coating a soft shine.

Open pores, bumps and other defects will not disappear, but they will be less noticeable on a semi-matte surface. You can use mineral spirits, soap, or any other lubricant instead of wax, but it is better to remove defects while applying wax.

More defects - more work

Now let's imagine a thicker coating film with several a large number defects, among which dried dust particles are more common, especially on slow-drying oil-varnish coatings. Most of them can be easily scraped off with a knife blade after the next layer has dried. Keep the blade large and index fingers almost vertically and carefully scrape the surface, making smooth movements towards you.

Be careful not to scratch the film. Dried dust can be remove by sanding, but the blade allows you to do this faster and with less effort, especially on flat surfaces. Curved, profiled and carved areas should be sanded. The blade scraping method also reduces the risk of through-damage to the coating film, as occurs when sanding the edges of flat surfaces. The finishing composition applied in liquid form seems to tend to the middle of the surface, forming a thinner layer along the edges, where it can be easily damaged.

Spraying a finish allows for a thicker film at the edges, but achieving a smooth transition using a brush or dip is nearly impossible. After scraping off the dust particles, you need to additionally sand the coating to even it out and get rid of other defects. This operation will not take much time if the dried layers are sequentially sanded during the coating process. For leveling the film, waterproof abrasive paper with silicon carbide grains wrapped around a block with glued felt, cloth, cork or rubber is best suited (photo E). If you want to sand dry, stearate coated paper (usually gray) is the best choice. This paper contains a soap-like substance that protects the abrasive from clogging. However, it should not be used when an additional layer of coating is going to be applied. For sanding water-based varnishes and polyurethane, it is better to use waterproof silicon carbide paper (usually black).

If you prefer wet sanding, choose plain waterproof paper without a stearate coating. Lubricants protect the abrasive from clogging with coating particles that stick together into tiny lumps and get stuck between the abrasive grains.

These lumps can leave noticeable marks on the coating film. You can use soap oxen, white spirit, kerosene, wax or oil as lubricants. Experiment with them to feel their properties. With soapy water the process is more active, but the paper clogs faster. With oil, sanding slows down, but the paper remains clean for a long time. Speeding up the process may seem in an efficient way saving time, but this often leads to through sanding of the coating (photo F). This is possible when using any lubricants. You can remove a large area of the coating, creating a hard-to-fix defect, and not even notice it until the lubricant dries.

To even out the coating film, sand carefully and little by little. Then clean the surface and point it at bright light. If shiny areas are noticeable, the surface is not yet leveled. Continue sanding the entire surface, not just the shiny areas.

Each new layer of composition (nitrovarnish or shellac) softens the previous layer and firmly connects with it, forming almost a single layer (Fig. 2). However, each layer of so-called reactive (or polymerizing) compounds dries as separate layer, which can create problems during grinding and polishing. If you sand unevenly, you may remove some of the top layer and affect the underlying layer, resulting in patchy areas. irregular shape with sharply defined light borders. Level the coating film until it is pleasing to the eye and touch, then apply a layer of paste wax using an abrasive sponge as in the previous cases.

Figure 1 (top): How polishing changes shine

Figure 2 (bottom): Two types of coatings: organic solvent formulations and polymerizing ones

Each new layer of a composition based on organic solvents, such as nitro varnish or shellac, is firmly connected to the previous one, so such a coating is easily polished. Polymerizing (reactive) compounds, like polyurethane, form separate layers. Sanding through the top layer results in unsightly streaks.

How to achieve a mirror gloss

If you want the surface finished with nitro varnish or shellac to shine like a mirror, first level it as described earlier. Then continue polishing, gradually moving to finer abrasives, until the desired result is achieved. You can use abrasive paper with a grain size of 800-1500 units, polishing pastes and microabrasives, the grain size of which is measured in many thousands of units.

Leveling and polishing pastes, as well as polishing liquids (polishes) for cars, suitable for our purposes, are not difficult to find on sale, and they do an excellent job with furniture coatings. Most leveling pastes that are orange or pink, allow you to achieve a matte shine. After using them, move on to white polishing pastes to achieve a glossy surface.

These pastes can be rubbed over the surface by hand or using a machine. A piece of felt or a short-haired tampon is suitable for applying them. It is better to polish the coating with a sheep's wool roller (photo G). These rollers are commonly used on hardwood floors and can be found at hardware stores. A special polishing machine will help speed up the processing of large flat surfaces, but you can also use a regular eccentric one. Many models are equipped with an additional polishing pad (check the manufacturer's instructions).

Photo 2: F: If the coating film is thin, it is easy to rub it through with sandpaper and expose the wood, as happened with the frame for the mirror. G: The sheep wool roller is comfortable to hold with both hands, applying pressure in the right places. Polishing compounds are sold in auto cosmetics stores and car dealerships.

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Polishing the varnish is done to make surfaces, even wooden ones, look mirror-like. The most popular options and solutions for making wood shiny as a mirror include polishing, varnishing and waxing the surface.

Polishing lacquerware is a process with many steps to consider.

The process is not complete without the use of abrasive materials and the polishing material itself, which in this case is called polish. The completion of processing leads to the appearance of the following types of surfaces:

Nitro varnishes and shellacs are a way to get a sparkling gloss.
Water, pentaphthalic or polyurethane varnishes make the coating semi-matte.
The result of using oil-varnish or only oil-based compositions is a matte shine. This ideal option for users who need to figure out how to polish varnish.

The product is coated with several layers of varnish, then wait until completely dry.

Waxing

There is nothing complicated about this process. Any master can handle it on his own. By treating the product with wax mastic, the owner has the opportunity to make the natural texture clearer and brighter.

The polishing surface becomes soft and velvety, at least visually. For hard rocks this method has become especially relevant. For example, it goes well with oak, ash and walnut.

Tinting for greater effect used in conjunction with soft woods. As an example, you can take linden or alder, birch. A special type of wood polish is used.

During this process, it is necessary to carefully fill the distances between the wood fibers with material. The varnish is applied only after the surface has been given the desired level of smoothness.

Sanding the varnish using wax will look like this:

The wood is covered with a thin layer of mastic. How to polish correctly? The main thing is to first clean the surface of lint using sanding. When drying is complete, wipe the base with a fine rag against the grain. After applying the first layer, literally all spaces left empty must be filled, otherwise smooth surface it won't.
Coverings and products are placed in a warm room for two hours.
A soft rag will help when applying the second coat. While the mastic is applied to the product, the pressure is constantly increased. We get a perfectly smooth and matte surface.
A thin layer of shellac-based furniture varnish makes the product finished.

This processing method is not without its drawbacks. In particular, resistance to large amounts of moisture suffers. Small drops are enough to cause defects to appear on the surface.

In the video: how to polish furniture with wax and transparent resin.

Varnishing works

Micropores after painting are filled with varnish. A surface with the formation of new pile is unacceptable. When working on wood, you can use a cotton swab. It is important to first wrap it in a canvas cloth. It does not leave lint on the surface.

The treatment promotes the appearance of a special protective film. It is resistant to dust and moisture. Images get more colors and clarity.

Subsequence independent work, including with acrylic, looks like this:

Apply the varnish itself in two layers. It is important to ensure that absolutely all surfaces are treated.
Delete everything varnish coating produced by grinding materials. Only cracks and pores should contain small amounts of material.
Applying the second layer. It is considered to be a preliminary primer. Paste is used the same way.
After secondary coating, dust is removed.
Small thickness is a requirement for the third layer. We must leave everything in indoors at least for a couple of days. The main thing is that no dust gets inside during this period.
Finally, they move on to the finishing coat for polishing the wood - in one or two layers.

If smudges appear on the surface at this moment, they will remain in the form of stains in the future. This can be avoided if the varnish layer is thin enough.

The main thing is not to destroy the film that formed during the previous movement. The work must be done quickly and efficiently, without interruptions. It’s good if you have the opportunity to use so-called control samples to test your skills and technique.

You can use both shellac varnish and regular oil varnish. Polishing pastes are also suitable.

Rules for varnishing with oil varnish

Varnish with oil base takes a long time to dry after the base is painted. The main recommendation is to use 200 grams of varnish per 1 kg of water.

During sanding, liquid varnish is applied with a thick brush to a surface that has been previously dried and sanded. Adding turpentine is permissible if the solution is too thick. Movements should be uniform, in no case sudden. If something unnecessary appears, it is removed. It is important that no bubbles appear when moving the brush.

Polishing technique

Thanks to this technology, the most beautiful textures are obtained. The grain of the wood is preserved quite well. As a result, varnished wooden surface indistinguishable from a tree. The process does not cause problems even when processed independently. True, not all materials are amenable to such processing.

Wood with a coarse texture is the least resistant to polishing.

The work is performed in the following order.

First of all, the surface is primed in three layers. After the first, a thorough polishing is carried out, cleaning from all contaminants. Two subsequent layers are applied to the dried surface. Varnishing is done using a different technique.
The so-called polishing is performed with a tampon. The polish is applied in a very thin layer. Grinding machines or abrasive materials are used during polishing. It is better to use automatic devices, otherwise the process will take too much time. Drying and sanding are repeated after each layer of polish. It is as a result of these actions that gloss is added to the surface. A couple of drops of oil will eliminate the danger of the tampon sticking to the surface.
The next stage is to obtain a polished surface, for which polish is used. Then add oil in a small amount. You need to rub the surface until it is smooth and shiny enough. You only need to add a couple of drops per 10 cm2 so that the previous layers do not disappear. The work is done many times. A rag for wiping surfaces is used between stages. It is dipped into a solution of water and polish. In this case, the polished base will look better.

There are a large number of compositions with polymers on the market. Those that contain special additives work especially well. The main thing is to contact companies that specialize specifically in the production and sale of this type of product.