We glue everything. Bonding various materials: expert advice How to glue metal and plywood

In the process of repair, it is necessary to glue certain surfaces together. Since this operation can be present in all types of repair activities, we considered it necessary to put it in a separate article.

General rules for gluing surfaces

Whatever you glue, work always begins with surface preparation. It must be cleaned of dirt, degreased, treated with acetone, gasoline, alcohol or other solvent, and then dried.
When gluing wood, its surface must be treated with sandpaper or a file to give it a roughness - for better adhesion of the parts to be glued.
Do not leave traces of old glue or paint on surfaces. Bone glue and PVA can be removed with a cloth soaked in hot water.

Glue should not be taken too much - the film formed by it on the surface must be very thin. In order for it to be connected to the surface as firmly as possible, it is better to first apply a thin layer of glue and let it dry. Then apply a second layer on top of it, also very thin.
After the surfaces to be glued are connected, they must be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. This is done so that the adhesive penetrates the material better.
by the most the best option there will be clamping them in a clamp or in a vice. If you do not have these tools at hand, or the parts to be glued are too large, you can put a heavy load on them or tighten them with a tight tourniquet.

Wood bonding

For fastening wooden parts best material what remains is bone-based carpentry glue. The second place in terms of its adhesive qualities is occupied by polyvinyl acetate adhesives (PVA). However, their disadvantage is their instability to moisture. You can also use casein glue, made from dry casein powder, or synthetic carpentry. Bone, PVA and casein adhesives withstand loads up to 60 kg per 1 cm2, the rest - two and a half times less.

Bone glue, as a rule, is produced in the form of tiles, which are brought to readiness as follows. They are crushed and soaked in water for a day, after which the excess water is drained and the vessel with glue is placed in a water bath, constantly stirring the mass. When it becomes homogeneous, the glue is ready for use.
Powder casein glue is dissolved in water heated to 60-70 ° C (250 g of glue is taken per 1 liter of water) and kept for an hour and a half.
PVA is sold in a ready-to-use form.

Synthetic wood glue includes two components - resin and hardener powder. The powder is diluted in hot water and mixed with resin.
As a rule, instructions for the preparation of glue, indicating the exact proportions, are attached to its packaging. Synthetic glue begins to dry after 20-25 minutes, so you need to use it quickly enough.
When gluing wood and metal, you can use epoxy resin, KS-1 and 88N adhesives.

Metal bonding

Using epoxy resin or ordinary BF-2 glue, you can connect metal parts together, close up holes in sheet metal, pipes or tanks with a sufficient degree of reliability.

BF-2
The surfaces to be glued are carefully cleaned with sandpaper, wiped with gasoline or acetone, covered with a thin film of glue and left to dry for an hour, and then dried for 20 minutes at elevated temperature (about +50 ° C). Then a second layer of glue is applied, slightly thicker than the first, allowed to dry, after which the surfaces are connected, clamped with a metal clamp and heated for 1-2 hours in an oven at a temperature of about + 150 ° C.
The parts are left clamped in the clamp for two days. Surfaces glued in this way can withstand a load of up to 100 kg per 1 cm2.

Epoxy resin
15-20 minutes before work it is mixed with a hardener in a ratio of approximately 25/1.
Excess glue that has come out is removed with acetone, and the parts to be glued are clamped with a clamp for about a day.

Holes in products sheet metal and pipes are sealed with BF-2 or epoxy glue. If the hole does not exceed 2 cm in size, you can simply put a piece of cloth soaked in epoxy glue on it.
For holes bigger size, in addition to the fabric, a metal patch is also applied. Well, if it is possible to repeat this procedure on the reverse side.

How to make your own glue

We offer the novice master to get acquainted with some recipes for adhesives that can be prepared at home.

Universal glue
The recipe for this adhesive has been known since pre-revolutionary times, it was then that it got its name - syndeticone. The composition is suitable for gluing with the most wood various materials.
To prepare it, you will need: 120 g of wood glue, 120 g of sugar, 30 g of slaked lime, 450 ml of water.
Dissolve sugar in water, add lime and heat, stirring, for an hour. Drain the clear solution and add pieces of wood glue.
When the glue swells, it is boiled until the glue is completely dissolved.

Adhesive wood paste
Serves for gluing wood with metal, glass, stone, etc.
In hot wood glue add finely sifted wood ash until you get a thick paste.

Waterproof adhesive
natural drying oil or linseed oil(1 part) are added to hot wood glue (4 parts).

Dry powder casein glue
1 part of the finished dry casein powder is poured into a clean glassware 1 part water and leave for 3 hours. Then dissolve 1 part of borax in 7 parts of hot water and pour casein with it. The mixture is heated in a water bath to 60-70°C, stirring continuously.
Glue can be used 40-50 minutes after it is removed from the fire - during this time it must settle.

Casein glue from milk
Designed for gluing wood, ceramics and faience, as well as various plastics.
Casein is the protein in milk and is usually sold as a powder, but you can easily make your own as follows:
Skimmed milk is placed in a warm place until souring and then filtered through blotting paper or cotton wool. Casein remains on paper. It is washed in soft water, then, tied in a cloth, boiled to remove fat.
The casein is then laid out on paper and dried at room temperature.

After that, you can start preparing the glue.
10 parts of casein and 1 part of borax are kneaded in two parts of water until a dough is obtained, then two more parts of water are added.
The resulting adhesive is usable for 2-3 hours, after which it hardens.

Casein glue from cottage cheese
Add ammonia to the curd drop by drop - until a gelatinous transparent mass is obtained.
For greater strength, the surfaces smeared with glue must be allowed to dry, then covered with a thin layer of lime paste and only after that the parts to be glued are connected.
To obtain waterproof qualities, a few drops of formalin or a solution of aluminum alum are added to the finished casein glue.

Glue for wood, leather, leatherette, leatherette and fabric
It consists of 10 parts of water, 40 parts of wheat flour, 1.5 parts of aluminum alum and 3 parts of rosin.
. All components are poured with water, thoroughly mixed and put on low heat. As soon as the glue mass begins to thicken, it is removed from the fire and immediately (until it has cooled down) is used.

Glue for rubber
A piece of soft rubber is crushed into small pieces, which are insisted for several days on clean, light (aviation) gasoline.
The result is a rubber solution, which is carefully drained, filtered and left open in a warm place until a thick mass is obtained. It is also used for bonding rubber products. The surfaces to be joined must be free of all dirt and grease.

Dextrin glue
Dextrin is a breakdown product of starch. From it comes good glue, which can successfully glue paper, cardboard, fabrics, leather, etc.
The dextrin itself is prepared as follows:
Starch is placed in a porcelain or enameled container, or in a clean frying pan and placed in drying cabinet, and gradually raise the temperature to 160 ° C. At this temperature, the starch is kept for 1 hour 45 minutes.

In the process of thermal decomposition of starch, it acquires a yellowish color. In this state, it turns into dextrin. With a weaker heating, the splitting process is slower, and with a stronger one, the starch burns.

For the preparation of glue, 1 part of water is taken for 1 part of dextrin. Water is heated almost to a boil, dextrin is poured into it and stirred until it dissolves.
Ready dextrin glue quickly thickens and becomes unusable. To increase its shelf life, prepare glue according to the following recipe: 3 parts of dextrin are mixed with 4-5 parts cold water, then, stirring constantly, the composition is heated and 1 part of glycerin is added.
This adhesive is kept long time in a sealed glass container.

Often in everyday life or in the manufacture of furniture, we have to glue various materials together. AT carpentry and furniture In fact, the skills of the master in this type of work play a big role.

The quality of bonding depends primarily on the pre-treatment of the surfaces to be bonded. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, residues of old glue or paint, the surface must be dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or file.

When gluing metal, porcelain, glass stone and some other parts, you must first degrease them by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab dipped in a solution ammonia gasoline, acetone, baking soda solution.

When gluing various materials, you need to follow a few rules: apply glue to the surface only in a thin layer, but so that there are no missed places. The glue must be free of any impurities (sawdust, dust, and so on) and of a homogeneous consistency, that is, it must not contain lumps. A thick layer of thick glue does not in any way contribute to a stronger bonding. Some types of adhesives, according to the instructions, should be heated before use. We would advise you not only to heat the glue itself, but also to heat the materials to be glued. Then the bonding strength will increase.

As a rule, the parts to be glued are dried in heat not lower than 18 °C. The parts should be pressed tightly against each other with a press, oppression or vice.

When gluing wood, it is recommended to heat the surfaces to be glued. It is desirable that the humidity of the parts to be glued be the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. Dry wood we would recommend you glue with animal and synthetic adhesives. Animal glues include bone and casein. We note right away that the preparation of bone glue for work requires quite a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than offset by its advantages. It is beneficial to use when a large amount of work is being done. The joints glued with this glue are very strong, which distinguishes it favorably from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. The glued parts can withstand a load of up to 60 kg per 1 sq. cm, which is several times higher than that of other adhesives. And finally, dry wood glue tiles can be stored for an unlimited time, they practically do not deteriorate.

Wood glue should be prepared in a special glue pot. The glue cooker consists of two tin vessels, one of which (wider) is filled with water, and glue is poured into the second (smaller) and placed in the first. Glue cooker can be successfully replaced with ordinary tin cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device (water bath) prevents the glue from burning and can keep heat for a long time. To weld bone glue, first break the dry glue into small pieces and fill it with water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then set to boil. For cooking liquid glue for 4 weight parts of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. The glue should be heated, stirring, so that the whole mass is obtained without clots and grains. Do not bring the adhesive to a boil, as this may reduce its tack and durability. Determine the readiness of the glue by dipping a stick in it.

The glue is ready if it flows slowly from the stick, in a thick, even stream. If the glue is too thick during cooking, you can dilute it hot water. When working, hot glue is used, if it has cooled slightly, it can be heated in a water bath. Don't brew right away. a large number of glue. Brew as much as you need to do the job; reheating already hardened glue worsens its properties. When preparing bone glue, you can also give it refractory properties. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and boil it in a glue pot until a thick composition is obtained, and then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil it again. An increase in the adhesiveness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the glue at the rate of 25:2.

When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of water room temperature and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. Glue powder should be poured into water gradually, stirring constantly until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. The finished mixture will be thick at first, and it is set aside for a while to thin. There is no need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should flow off the stick in a continuous stream, leaving a thin, shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue is not heated, because at temperatures above 40 ° C, casein coagulates and loses its adhesive properties. You can also prepare glue powder at home, provided you have the necessary components. The glue contains 7 weight parts of dry casein powder and 1 weight part of borax (sodium boric acid).

To prepare glue from such a powder, you need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour casein with cold water in a ratio of 1:1 and soak for 3 hours. Dissolve the borax in hot water and pour the swollen casein with the resulting solution. Stir continuously until you get a fairly thick homogeneous mass. Parts glued with casein glue are kept under pressure for 4 hours, but the glue dries completely only after 12 hours. The big advantage of casein glue is that it can glue wood together. high humidity. Wood can also be glued with other adhesives such as synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses.

Sometimes it is required to stick plastic, leather, leatherette, decorative plywood, cloth or synthetic film. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood with casein or synthetic wood glue. You can also glue plywood with tile wood glue, but it forms a noticeable dark-colored seam. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood as it may shrink. It is better to cover the surface of the wood with a layer of glue, and then put a plywood sheet on it and press it firmly on top with a yoke. The pressure should be about 8 kg and should lie under pressure for about 7-8 hours.

To glue plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. These can be adhesives such as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, Elastosila-2. Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of wood or plastic.

Clean the wood from dust, and sand the back of the plastic until the plastic becomes slightly rough. Be especially careful with corners and edges. Then wipe the treated plastic surface with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply glue in a thin layer on both surfaces to be glued and connect them. Pressing the plastic firmly against the wood, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze out all the air from under the plastic, and then put something heavy on the plastic so that the oppression is evenly distributed over the entire glued surface to be at least 4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq. . see Oppression leave for half an hour. Such gluings finally harden within a day.

For sticking to wooden base fabrics, leather, leather substitutes, use glues: "Oak", "Unicum", BF-6, "Polyvinyl acetate".

Also at home, with the necessary components, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive composition. To do this, you will need 400 g of wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix the dry ingredients, fill with water and put on low heat, or even better, use a glue cooker. In the process of preparing the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically so that lumps do not form. As soon as the glue begins to thicken it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive composition is homogeneous. This glue is used only when hot. Leathers and leatherettes (without a fabric base), degrease synthetic films with gasoline with acetone. Fabrics do not need pre-treatment before gluing. Cover both surfaces with glue, with yourself and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until it dries.

It is better not to glue fabrics and synthetic films with BF-6 and Polyvinyl acetate glues, since BF-6 glue can shine through the front surface and stain the fabrics yellowish. Glue "Polyvinyl acetate" collapses under the influence of water.

It is best to glue metal parts to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Pateks, Elastosila-2. If you need to stick to wooden surface small metal objects (hooks, shelves), we would not recommend using the first three brands of adhesives mentioned. These adhesives form the so-called "creeping seams", that is, under the influence of loads, a metal object will move out of a wooden surface. Before gluing, file the metal surface with a file to make it rough, and then degrease with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces to be bonded, clamp the parts in a vise and leave for a few minutes. Finally, the glue will dry in 10-12 hours.

For gluing smooth surfaces, use the same adhesives - Elastosila-2 glue.

Apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces previously degreased with acetone and leave it for one hour. After that, wipe the surfaces with a swab dipped in acetone, and connect them. Clamp the glued parts for 4-5 hours in a vise. Finally, the glue will harden in 10-12 hours.

Glass is most often glued together with such adhesives as "Polyvinyl acetate", "Mars", "Supercement", BF-2, "Pateks", "Unicum". These adhesives form almost colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and let it dry a little for 10 minutes. Apply the second layer and after 2-3 minutes connect the parts to be glued. Details within 20-30 minutes should be tightly pressed against each other. The glue completely hardens only after a day.

To glue glass and metal together, take Adhesive Sealant, Elastosila-2, Unicum. Degrease both surfaces, grease with glue and clamp the parts in a clamp for 30 minutes. The glue will finally harden and become waterproof after three days.

You can glue glass to a tree, as well as stick fabric or cardboard on it with PVA, PVA-A, "Polyvinyl acetate" adhesives. Degrease the glass with acetone, grease the surfaces with glue and put the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.

At home, glue BF-2 or "Epoxy" is used for bonding metals. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust, sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with gasoline or acetone. Apply glue on the surface in a thin layer and leave it for an hour. Then place the blanks smeared with glue in an oven heated to 50-60 ° C and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it starts to dry (stops sticking to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vise and dry in the oven at a temperature of 130-150 ° C for 1-2 hours. When cold drying
completely hardens only after 2-3 days.

Epoxy glue is indispensable in some cases. It consists of two components resin and hardener.

When using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is poisonous; if the hardener gets on your hands, remove it with a swab dipped in acetone, and then wash your hands running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to heat the resin in a bowl of hot water, but not higher than 30°C. Mix warm resin with a hardener in the ratio indicated in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as you would others.

Also read in this section:

Useful repair tips
Tips for housewives on cleaning the apartment, cleaning carpets, caring for furniture. What cleaning products to use. And also how to quickly eliminate blockages in the kitchen or restore chipped enamel in the bathroom. How to repair a rubber boot.

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All about how to insulate doors, walls, windows, floors, ceilings or ceilings. Here is how to make the attic warm, what materials to use. All about the methods and technologies of warming houses, cottages, basements. You will be able to calculate the consumption of material.

Materials for insulation
How to correctly select materials for thermal insulation work, in what proportions to prepare cement mortar for walls, how to insulate Vacation home. Recommendations will help you choose materials that have fire-resistant and low heat-conducting properties.

Joinery is based on precise fitting and gluing of parts, and it is the last part that is responsible for the strength and durability of the product. There are quite a few varieties of wood adhesives, and today we will talk about the difference between them and the rules for use.

General classification of wood adhesives

The modern assortment of glue for carpentry includes more than a hundred items. Therefore, to begin with, let's briefly go over the types of glue, their properties and the most popular brands.

By origin, all types of glue can be divided into compositions of natural origin and synthetic. In turn, natural adhesives may include binders animal and vegetable origin, while synthetic ones are divided according to the method of production into condensation (formaldehyde) and polymerization (PVA, polyamide). The list of natural adhesives includes compositions based on casein, collagen and albumin, to chemical compounds include PVA, formaldehyde, PVC, epoxy, as well as most universal varieties of glue. As you might guess, natural adhesives are most widely used, primarily due to their low cost and well-established production technology.

Wood is a material with high porosity, which means that almost any adhesive composition can be used for gluing. However, since most joinery is used for domestic purposes, it is not customary to use adhesives based on volatile solvents for gluing them. This is the second advantage of natural glue - it provides sufficient strength while not releasing any toxic substances into the environment.

However, for a number of products it is required to provide resistance to different kind external influences. Mostly the fight is over increasing moisture resistance, because most varieties of natural glue lose strength when wet. Increased adhesion may also be required, mainly such a need arises when gluing parts made of hard and dense species of small-vessel wood. Here best performance demonstrate connections on synthetic adhesives.

How to choose the right glue

If you are not a professional carpenter, do not be intimidated by such a variety of wood bonding compounds. You can go the easier way - use time-tested types of wood glue, environmentally friendly and with a certain set of special properties.

Glue of natural origin is supplied mainly in dry form and must be prepared before use. Main disadvantages natural adhesives- short lifetime (up to 2-3 days) and low strength of the joints, due to the low degree of chemical purity and errors made during preparation. Wherein natural glue — optimal choice for bonding non-critical parts with a large area of ​​adjacent surfaces.

As a universal adhesive, most joiners use factory-prepared compositions based on PVA. Well-established manufacturers - Titebond, Kleiberit, "Moment", they are listed in order of decreasing cost of products and, accordingly, quality. Such types of glue are classified according to the reliability and quality of the connection by index D with four serial numbers. The higher the number, the more pronounced the moisture resistance and strength of the seam, and additional properties may appear. Yes, glue. Titebond III, aka D4 in general classification, allows contact with food products after drying, this glue is mainly used for assembling end cutting boards.

If the contact area of ​​the parts to be bonded is low, high bonding accuracy or load resistance is required, it is better to use compounds based on synthetic resins. Even ordinary EAF epoxy resin in such cases will give odds to any water-soluble adhesive. It is especially advantageous to use it for gluing hardwoods, including thermally modified ones, as well as when joining wood with foreign materials.

Gluing wood to plastic with epoxy

Preparation of parts for gluing

When gluing wood, general rules making glue joints. The fixation will be the stronger, the smaller the thickness of the adhesive seam, deeper impregnation and below the content of foreign impurities. For these purposes, the surfaces to be bonded must be carefully prepared.

Bonding of wooden parts is carried out up to final grinding. Pre-contact surfaces must be carefully sanded with at least 300 grit abrasive paper to remove fine pile that prevents the absorption of glue. It is important to remember that the cleaned surface is suitable for gluing only certain time: over time, the top layer of wood oxidizes, the vessels are clogged with dust and new portions of pile rise.

When using a water-soluble adhesive, degreasing is not necessary. However, when gluing on epoxy resin or polyurethane hot melt adhesive, it is desirable to remove residues of wood resins and natural secretions from the surface using concentrated technical acetone. The humidity of the parts to be glued should be mentioned separately: a moderately high moisture content (20-22%) when working with water-soluble adhesives slightly slows down the hardening process, but at the same time promotes deeper absorption and ultimately has a positive effect on the strength of the joint. But when using adhesives on liquid resins, an increased (more than 12-14%) moisture content is categorically unacceptable, therefore, the adjacent surfaces are pre-dried with hot air for 2-3 minutes.

Application of glue and curing

The adhesive is applied to the surfaces to be joined as evenly as possible. The thickness of the layer should be as small as possible, but at the same time sufficient to compensate for the curvature. The presence of air cavities in the adhesive seam affects the reliability of the connection extremely negatively. Special attention give seams with an uneven thickness, reaching a peak of several millimeters: in such joints, it is recommended to mix the glue with wood flour or cellulose fiber.

In certain cases, the adhesive does not have the main fastening function, but is used as a plastic filler. Such situations include the strengthening of the joints on the spikes and lamellas with glue, and the splicing of wood using the groove and micro-thorn method also partly belongs to this category. In such cases, the glue is applied with a clear excess, after which quite painstaking work is carried out to remove the protruding residues.

On flat and smooth surfaces it is convenient to apply glue with a small flexible spatula, which can be used as a regular plastic card. In the grooves and small holes, as well as on the spikes and folds, glue is applied with a brush with synthetic bristles. When gluing parts with a large contact area, it is necessary to apply a large amount of glue as quickly as possible so that it is absorbed evenly. For example, you can take all the same end boards and furniture boards: to glue several dozen bars, the glue is quickly rolled out over them with a roller. The same applies to sticking veneer, and gluing flat parts of plywood.

Almost all types of glue require exposure after application in the open air. Upon contact with oxygen, the adhesive undergoes primary curing, which speeds up the drying process of the assembled parts. For PVA-based adhesives, the exposure time can be up to 20-30 minutes, for natural ones - up to several hours. Manufacturers may give special recommendations, for example, polyurethane adhesive is aged until the viscosity is completely lost, after which it is activated by temperature.

Positioning, compression of parts

Holding parts helps to increase the viscosity of the adhesive, which is good for keeping the parts in the bonding position. However, this approach is used mainly in modeling and the implementation of irresponsible glue joints. In most carpentry adhesive joints, rigid fixation of parts using clamps and stops is required.

Fastening parts with additional pressure not only allows you to maintain their position during the drying of the glue, which is almost always accompanied by shrinkage and warping of wood from local moisture. As the adhesive becomes more viscous, the pressure helps to push the compound that has not yet set deep into the pores, which increases the strength of the adhesive line.

AT carpentry used great amount clamps of various types and sizes. For gluing flat parts, you can also use the usual oppression, pressing the product to the table with a load of 7-10 kg. But to connect linear elements, it is necessary not only to withstand the corners, but also to squeeze parts that can be very overall. Ordinary linear clamps do an excellent job with this task, with a lack of length, an emphasis can be attached to the parts, but only if the place of its fixation is blocked by another part of the product. It is also widely practiced to temporarily fasten the stops to the clamps.

For gluing parts at an angle, clamps of a special shape are used, having two pairs of clamps and fixed jaws, rigidly fixed to the frame in a given position. This tool can be replaced with a number of fixtures, which is often practiced when gluing at angles other than straight lines. For example, wedges cut according to a common pattern can serve as a temporary stop. With this method of positioning, it is important that the pressing force has a direction as close as possible to perpendicular to the adhesive line. For these purposes, the occipital parts of the clamps and stops can take a variety of forms.

In conclusion, we give a couple good advice about how to ensure the invisibility of adhesive seams. Most wood adhesives have a translucent color for a reason. White color: after drying, minor streaks are easy to hide under a layer of protective and decorative coating. But there are also a number of exceptional situations.

For example, initially imperceptible traces of glue getting on wood are clearly visible when impregnated with oil. If such a coating of the product is planned, it is necessary to work with glue as carefully as possible. Excess glue that has come out of the seam should not be wiped off immediately, it is better to wait for their preliminary setting, and then cut them off with a modeling knife. With streaks, the same story: attempts to wipe will only lead to deeper absorption, so it’s better to just blot the drop with a foam rubber sponge, and after drying, clean the defective place with a cycle.

If it is necessary to remove small residues of adhesive that has come out, solvents can be used. Depending on the type of adhesive, these can be acetone (for most adhesives based on synthetic resins), isopropyl alcohol (for PVA-based adhesives), toluene (for universal rubber adhesives and epoxy resins), as well as ordinary soapy water (for natural reversible adhesives). Dried excess must be wiped off with an absolutely clean rag or cotton napkin strictly in the direction of the glue line.

Tell me the brand of glue or special adhesive tape, the cost of such materials.

Epoxy resin is an adhesive that is almost always used to glue, for example, a wooden handle, and a metal blade of a knife inserted into the wood of the handle. This glue is two-component, and consists of resin and hardener. Immediately before gluing, the compounds are mixed in the proportions indicated on the package. It used to be that "epoxy" is the most reliable and effective tool, for gluing including wood and metal. In principle, this adhesive belongs to the category inexpensive materials, and therefore the price here will mainly depend on the volume of the package. Two hundred rubles is quite possible to keep within.

If, for example, no large loads are expected in relation to the parts or elements to be joined, then synthetic and rubber adhesives can also be used. The main thing here is to compress the glued surfaces well. As for rubber-based adhesives, they are easy to work with, since the excess without a pipe is removed with a sharp chisel or knife.

Elastic glue costs about one hundred and fifty rubles for a tube of thirty grams.

The use of double-sided adhesive tape is also common. The tape itself is soft, made of foam material. Thanks to a rich assortment, you can choose a tape that will most support the connection of the selected materials. Particularly on acrylic base the tape costs about one hundred and seventy rubles, for one roll. Including, with regard to the manufacturer, the manufacturer 3M is a recognized leader in this field.

Summarizing, we can say that prices range from two hundred rubles to five hundred rubles for a small package.

The superiority among the adhesives used for gluing metal and wood belongs to the "old-timer" in this area - ordinary 88th glue. The correct name is 88N. In principle, all rubber-based adhesives are capable of reliably bonding metal to wood. In this case, the non-static nature of the dried adhesive material is important, which, for example, is well provided epoxy resins, but on the contrary, "stickiness" adhesive composition. This is due to the adhesive properties of the surfaces to be bonded. Example: gluing wooden blocks, using PVA adhesives and its analogues, we achieve the strength of the connection when the adhesive penetrates into the material - wood, thus "joining" homogeneous materials. But when gluing metal and wood, it should be borne in mind that the glue does not penetrate the metal, but only remains on its surface. In addition, the expansion coefficient of metal and wood, with a temperature difference, is very different. Therefore, when gluing, you should rely on the plasticity of the glue, its "mobility".

A number of adhesives have such properties. It is worth mentioning "Elastosil-2" and "Pateks", I did not use other brands, therefore I consider it incorrect to comment on their properties.

As for adhesive tapes, their choice is very diverse. I did not pay attention to the manufacturer, I often came across double sided tape Made in China, but I don't think there's much of a difference. The only clarification should be applied to the choice of these adhesive tapes. I advise you to purchase a tape made of irradiated polyethylene, the strength is simply cosmic, in addition, these tapes are always coated with high quality non-drying adhesives.

Aluminum is a metal that is light, strong and resistant to external influence environment. This metal has its drawback - it does not have adhesive properties.

Therefore, it must either be welded or glued. Since welding can only be done by professionals, aluminum glue is a great household option. But for this metal, only special glue is suitable.

Any adhesive intended for aluminum must contain alkalis and acids in its composition, which destroy its oxide film and increase adhesion, providing a strong connection.

• Adhesive for aluminum Mastix. It is used to glue aluminum, seal containers and joints, repair non-ferrous and ferrous metals, wood, ceramics and plastic in any combination. Even with low temperatures, as well as on greasy and damp surfaces, quickly and reliably glues parts together. This is a heat-resistant adhesive for aluminum, so the products glued with it can be operated at very low and extremely high temperatures(from -60 to +150 degrees). The cost of a tube with a volume of 55 g: 33 rubles.

• Cold welding ASTROhim ACE-9305. This is a reliable adhesive for instant repairs, which can come in handy in an emergency to fix a breakdown. Its use provides strong bonding of aluminum and its alloys, as well as restoration of broken or lost fragments, including threads. Temperature range: from -60 to +150 degrees Celsius. Packing cost: 82 rubles.

• Cosmopur 819. A one-component polyurethane adhesive solution that can be used to bond aluminium. It gives a viscous and elastic seam between the surfaces to be glued, is used to fill gaps, glue corners aluminum structures designed for doors and windows. It is also designed to work with assembly and structural connections. Solvents are not included in its composition. The cost of a package with a volume of 310 ml: 456 rubles.

• Moment Epoxy Metal. Two-component adhesive that guarantees the bonding of aluminum, steel, copper, iron and many other metal products among themselves and in combination with stone, concrete, marble, organic glass and other materials. Suitable for filling cracks and gaps between surfaces. The cost of a 50 ml package: 320 rubles.

How and how to glue aluminum to aluminum

With development modern technologies it became possible to firmly glue aluminum parts together thanks to the cold method.

For this you will need:

• Glue cold welding Mastix;
• Sandpaper;
• Alcohol, acetone or any other degreaser.

To glue aluminum together with this glue, you need:

• With sandpaper, clean the surfaces for connection from rust and dirt;
• Degrease with alcohol or acetone;
• Wait until the surface is dry;
• Cut off the required amount of the rod and mix the two components well with your fingers so as to obtain a homogeneous mass in the form of plasticine. Coloring should be uniform;
• Apply the adhesive mixture to both aluminum surfaces to be joined;
• Press firmly and fix them for 15 minutes until the adhesive hardens.

To what and with what else can aluminum be glued

A two-component epoxy-based aluminum adhesive with high adhesive and heat-resistant properties.

With it, aluminum can be bonded to other materials with different thermal expansion: stone, porcelain, wood or plastic.

To glue an aluminum surface with other metals and materials, it is necessary to prepare:

• Epoxy Heat Resistant Adhesive Moment Epoxy Metal;
• Sandpaper;
• brush;
• Means for degreasing the glued surface (alcohol or acetone).

After that, you can get to work:

1. Clean the surfaces to be bonded with coarse sandpaper to remove dirt and rust;
2. Degrease parts with acetone or alcohol;
3. dry;
4. Squeeze the contents of two glue syringes (epoxy mass and hardener) into a separate container in a ratio of 1: 1;
5. Mix the epoxy mass and hardener together well with a brush;
6. Apply glue with a brush on both aluminum surfaces to be glued;
7. Connect the parts and press them tightly for a few seconds;
8. Wipe off excess glue immediately with a cloth;
9. Wait 30 minutes for the adhesive mixture to harden.

Although many do not recognize the effectiveness of using glue for aluminum, by choosing the right product and performing the glued work clearly according to the instructions, it can be used to achieve the most durable connection.

Moreover, this type of connection can be combined with mechanical fastening.