Why do fruit trees dry out? Fruit trees are dying. What to do? Why do strawberry berries dry out?

There was no such thing, the lion's share of the site was made up of plantings, and the beds and fruit trees could only divide the space around the house. In the front garden, as a hedge, piercing the old picket fence with elastic branches, they grew by themselves, and behind them, closer to the house, several cherry trees.

These few trees gave us a small but stable harvest of aromatic sour northern cherries. This happened year after year, and it seemed an unshakable and common occurrence. However, I don’t remember my grandmother somehow caring for cherry trees. They, like currants, lived their independent lives next to us.

Subsequently, when planting apple and cherry seedlings on my plot, I expected the same result. Alas, this did not work out. Very often in the spring I have to observe a sad picture - some young fruit tree does not wake up after winter sleep or, having woken up and begun to bloom small leaves, suddenly dries up on the root. This happened this spring too. Another cherry tree did not wake up, and out of the four varietal cherries planted, I now only have one tree left.

cherry with live buds

The issue became acute, and it was no longer possible to postpone the search for a way out of the current situation. An attentive reader of the Green Blog could not help but notice that the main idea of my articles is the idea of the inadmissibility of using any artificially created chemicals. But all the sources that I read, trying to understand how to prevent, said one thing: it will not be possible to do without chemistry.

And this tree died, the buds are dry and lifeless

I realized that in my case we are most likely talking about a monilial burn. I confess, I made a decision and settled on the drug Horus, which has not only a therapeutic effect, but also a preventive one. The manufacturer claims that it does not harm bees, but is dangerous for fish if it gets into water bodies. In addition to monial burns, this drug helps protect fruit trees from fruit rot, clusterosporiasis, coccomycosis, Alternaria blight, scab and powdery mildew. Chorus can be used in damp, humid weather (but not in the rain) and low air temperatures; in addition, two hours after treatment, the drug is not washed off by rain.

So I sprayed cherries, plums, young apple trees, cherry plums and sea buckthorn. After 10 days the treatment will need to be repeated. I will be able to tell you about the results of the work done only in a year. I really hope that the losses in my garden will stop.

It’s a shame when, despite all the efforts made, fruit trees become sick and bear fruit poorly. Often this kind of trouble happens with cherries: the tree dries out at the tips of its branches and loses its ovaries. Let's figure out why cherries dry out and what to do to save the tree.

The reasons for the drying out of a fruit tree can be very diverse - from improper care and violation of the watering regime to incorrect pruning and the development of fungal or infectious diseases. However, most often cherries dry out precisely because of a disease - a fungal pathology. If small characteristic spots appear on the leaves of a plant, measures must be taken immediately, as the infection spreads rapidly, covering not only the foliage, but also the ovaries, flowers and berries.

Sometimes in the spring gardeners notice that the cherries in the garden have dried up. This can be explained simply: the tree did not recover after the winter, having suffered from severe frosts. Or the soil moisture regime may be disrupted - felt cherries are considered capricious cultures in this matter.

Another explanation for why cherries dry out lies in the lack of fertilizer: the tree simply does not have enough nutrition to form a harvest, and it has no choice but to get rid of unripe fruits.

And the last, most unpleasant moment is infection with moniliosis. The disease can be recognized by the characteristic blackening of the ovaries. If you do nothing and do not fight the spread of the disease, it may well deprive you of not only your harvest, but your entire cherry orchard.

How to save a tree

Complex fungicides are used to combat fungal infections. When the first alarming symptoms appear, all affected trees should be generously treated with these drugs, otherwise the dried plants will inevitably die. The same applies to insects - to destroy them, there are insecticides with complex systemic or contact action that are safe for the crop. Mechanical destruction of pests would also be useful.

If the tree turns black due to irregular watering, try to regulate it. Cherry does not like close-lying soil groundwater, so you should carefully choose a place to plant a cherry seedling. Optimal mode watering for a tree - once every 2 months, using 3 to 5 buckets of water for each plant.

In order not to provoke a lack of nutrition, fertilize on time: in the fall the tree needs organic fertilizers, in spring and summer - mineral (in specialized stores you can find complex preparations developed for stone fruit crops).

But the success of treatment for moniliosis will entirely depend on how quickly the disease was noticed. To combat it, the drug “Horus” is used.

Prevention

So that you don’t have to frantically search for an answer to the question of what to do to save the garden if the cherries in it dry out, try to follow the rules of agricultural technology. Do not neglect mandatory preventive treatments, do not forget to cover your cherries for the winter, protecting them from the cold, apply all the necessary fertilizers on time, water correctly and prune the branches.

IN recent years Cases of verticillium disease in cherries have become more frequent, which leads to premature drying of both individual branches and the tree as a whole.

On young trees (3-7 years old), the disease begins in the spring; the apical buds of bouquet branches turn black and do not bloom one to two weeks before flowering; inflorescences often wilt. Look carefully. Such spots can sometimes be separated from living tissue by cracks from which gum flows out. The disease progresses intensively. If not accepted preventative measures, the tree may die during the current growing season.

In trees older than 7 years, the disease becomes chronic: necrotic lesions form on the trunk bark and sedate branches. The bark around it cracks and peels off from the wood in the form of continuous longitudinal stripes, forming depressions from which gum flows abundantly. Gradually growing wounds completely cover the affected part of the plants and fungi settle on them. Trees slowly dry out over 10-15 years.

Solving the problem

To prevent premature drying of cherries, it is necessary to the following requirements. In the area where it grows, you cannot grow nightshades, vegetables, melons, strawberries, sunflowers, that is, plants that are severely affected by verticillium wilt - they can be a source of infection.
The soil for cherries should be breathable. Sweet cherries do not tolerate heavy clay soils, saline and “alkaline” soils are also undesirable, with a close level of groundwater that impairs the aeration of the root system. Based on my experience, I plant trees in the fall, while root collar I place it at a depth of 4-5 cm from the soil surface. I perform formative pruning of trees in the summer (end of May-August), when the development of bacteria is suppressed high temperature air. Cutting tool I disinfect with a 10% solution copper sulfate, formalin or carbolic acid. I always cover the sections with garden varnish or oil paint.
To protect trees from sunburn and frost damage, which contribute to the development of verticillium wilt, in the fall and in winter-autumn I whitewash the trunks and bases of skeletal branches with a 20% lime solution with the addition of a 2% solution of copper sulfate. I clean the gum ulcers and cover them with clay and mullein putty (1:1), also adding a 2% solution of copper sulfate to it. After heavy rains in August-September and at the beginning of leaf fall, I spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture or cuproxate. In October - two more treatments with the same drugs with an interval of 15 days.
In the spring, to disinfect the apical buds on which the pathogen overwinters, I spray the trees with 3% Bordeaux mixture or cuproxate. Immediately after the end of flowering, during the period of intense leaf disease, I spray with polychome (40 g), cuproxate (35 ml), radomil (40 g) or polycarbacin (40 g). At the end of July - beginning of August I repeat spraying with the same preparations. Reduced complex protective measures It is also effective against premature drying of apricot and other fruit trees.

Why do fruit trees dry out?

Drying out is a fairly common phenomenon, which, as a rule, leads to the death of individual branches or the entire tree. There are many reasons for drying out. Therefore, it is impossible to name one of them without specifying details related to the conditions of planting, growth and phytosanitary condition of fruit trees.

The drying out of young trees in the first year after planting is most often associated with the quality of seedlings, poor planting conditions and the survival period.

Trees often dry out because the roots of the seedlings were very weak or dried out, and after planting they did not provide the supply of water and minerals to the developing above-ground organs.

It also happens that the roots of the purchased seedlings were normal, but you were delayed in planting and did not ensure the safety of the root system. Therefore, both autumn and spring planting It is advisable to carry out this as soon as possible, and if this fails, then bury the seedlings in moist soil or cover them with wet material.

Poor quality seedlings can be purchased unknowingly from unscrupulous sellers, especially during spring sales planting material, not sold out since the fall.

High-quality seedlings most often take root poorly and dry out for the following reasons:

* after planting there was no proper watering or natural soil moisture. In this case root system is not able to provide the necessary moisture to blossoming buds and growing shoots;

* in early spring or late autumn planting the roots fell into cold soil. In spring, the buds begin to bloom, but the roots are not yet functioning. A moisture deficit is created for the growing aboveground part. Watering with warm water can help in such a situation;

* planting was carried out on poor, infertile soils in poorly prepared planting pits. You need to know that planting pits must have appropriate sizes for each fruit crop and be filled with fertile soil mixed with humus or compost. Sometimes, when determining the reasons for the drying of young trees, it turns out that they were planted in small holes, covered with the same dry soil. In fact, they were “stuck into the ground.”

Drying of young, older and fruit-bearing trees is also a very common phenomenon. It can be transient, when individual skeletal branches or the entire tree die in a few weeks, or one growing season, and chronic, in which gradual drying occurs over several years.

The initial causes of fruit drying can be divided into non-infectious and infectious.

The most common non-infectious causes are:

Planting fruit trees in areas with high level occurrence of groundwater. In this case, trees on tall rootstocks dry out first, and drying occurs from the apical parts of the crown. In the first years after planting, trees can grow and develop normally. When the roots reach groundwater, the bulk of the suction part of the roots begins to experience oxygen deficiency and dies. It happens that the initially normal level of groundwater rises after irrigation work carried out near the plantings (construction of artificial reservoirs or filling existing ones with water);

Gradual soil salinization due to irrigation with mineralized groundwater and waste water. In this case, the drying process proceeds approximately the same as with high groundwater levels. Only the death of the roots occurs due to the excess salt content in the water (0.15-0.25% or more);

Poor growing conditions for fruit trees: very poor and compacted long time soil, severe drought, prolonged flooding;

Drying often begins due to partial freezing of last year's growth. First of all, not fully ripened and lignified shoots freeze, which are formed due to the lengthening of the growing season, associated or with increased doses nitrogen fertilizers, or with a long warm and humid autumn. Sometimes normally mature growth is subject to freezing, falling under winter or early spring thaws, when fruit crops The winter dormancy period ends.

Chronic gradual drying is caused by freezing of bark and wood during the winter. In stone fruit trees, long-term gum deposition greatly weakens the tree.

Infectious drying is associated with the development of diseases such as black cancer, cytosporosis, monilial burn, bacterial bark cancer, clusterosporiasis, coccomycosis, and verticillium wilt. The symptoms of each of them are specific at the initial and subsequent stages of their development, but the final result is drying out skeletal branches or entire trees.

Often, diseases of infectious drying out begin in those areas of the crown that were initially susceptible to such non-infectious diseases as freezing and wounding of the bark, sunburn, frost and growth cracks in the bark, and dryness. The causative agents of black cancer, cytosporosis, bacterial bark cancer, and milky sheen infect only dying tissues of bark and wood, and then, due to their toxic secretions, penetrate into adjacent healthy tissue, leading to its death.

To protect fruit trees from drying out, it is necessary to eliminate the causes that cause it. Of these, only the groundwater level and winter weather conditions are beyond the gardener’s control.

But if the disease does appear, it is necessary to immediately cut out the drying parts of the crown (with the obligatory capture of an apparently healthy area) and create a tree optimal conditions growth.

Yu. Stroikov , candidate biological sciences, TSHA, Moscow

(Garden and vegetable garden No. 7-8, 2010)

Twice a year you can enjoy raspberries. Ripening begins in early summer, the second stage of fruiting occurs in September, when raspberries can be enjoyed until the first frost. Raspberry bush unpretentious plant, but it is also subject to various diseases . One of the most common is drying of leaves, berries and shoots. In this article we will try to figure out why berries and leaves dry out and what to do in such cases, what treatment methods exist.

Reasons for drying of branches and berries

The drying process is called withering away syndrome. Most young plants are susceptible to it, because as the bush grows, the young shoots crack. This facilitates the rapid penetration of insect larvae and phytopathogenic fungi, the main culprits of drying, into the stem.

Disease caused by the proliferation of phytopathogenic fungi, manifests itself in the death of stems early spring. After winter, infected branches slowly grow back and dry out. If the plant does not have enough moisture, the process occurs faster. If you do not take action, you can lose more than half of the raspberry stems and ovaries.

The stems will crack more if they do not receive enough water. Excessive fertilization of the soil with growth accelerators will also affect the integrity of the branches, because they do not have time to sod.

The culprit of infection of raspberry bushes is shoot gall midge. Getting through natural cracks or mechanical damage into the stem, it lays larvae that feed on the bark of the plant and destroy it protective layer- periderm. This is the main barrier that prevents the penetration of phytopathogenic fungi into the plant.

The shoots become a feeding ground for the larvae. At the site of their larger accumulation, ulcers appear, which prevent the spread of nutrients throughout the plant. This leads to the death of the upper part of the stem. The disease manifests itself in the form of purple or dark brown spots on the shoots.

Why do the berries dry out?

Drying of raspberries is caused by various viral diseases that are spread by cicadas and aphids. These sucking insects spread infection from diseased plants. The diseases are different, but the result is the same for all - drying of the berries.

For viral chlorosis of berries They develop poorly, do not have time to gain juice and color, and eventually dry out.
With yellow mosaic If the berry does not dry out completely, it develops one-sidedly and has a dry, insipid taste.

Curly characterized by underdeveloped berries and their drying. Bushes infected with this virus die within several years.

First of all, diseases affect the harvest. The one-sided development of berries, their shedding and drying out should be a signal for the start of emergency action.

Why do leaves dry and curl during fruiting?

Viral and bacterial diseases of raspberries, spread by flying insects, provoke drying of the leaves, even during fruiting. Diseases that affect berries primarily affect the condition of the leaves and their development. The same viruses have negative influence per plant and yield:

Viral chlorosis. Infected leaves begin to turn yellow, dry out and curl in the midst of growth and flowering along with the berries, the shoots become small compared to healthy ones.
Yellow mosaic. This disease is characterized by yellowing leaves with curled, dry edges. This is an insect-borne virus that appears in late spring and mid-August.
Curly. You can distinguish healthy shoots from diseased ones by several signs:

slowdown growth;
thickening in diameter;
change in leaf color until brown;
reduction in leaf size and their drying out.

What is chlorosis and how to treat it

A disease that often infects raspberry bushes is chlorosis. His by nature of origin they are divided into:

What does a bush infected with this virus look like:

yellowing first in the center, and then entirely leaves;
shoots become thinner and stretch out
berries either do not form at all, or half ripens and the other half dries.

The fight against chlorosis should begin immediately after planting the plant. For this there is a whole a number of products for spraying the plant and protecting it from sucking insects. If you want to harvest this year, you should process it in 2 stages:

Early spring, before the buds open, use a 3% solution of Nitrafen or a 0.2% solution of Nicotine sulfate.
Before flowering emulsion of 30% Methylmercaptophos.

At least 45 days must pass before raspberries begin to ripen after spraying.

If chlorosis was provoked by unfavorable weather conditions, watering cold water or lack of organic compounds, you need to try fix the quality of plant care:

normalize watering warm water , it is better if it is river or lake, heated in the sun;
make the soil more fertile through the introduction of mineral fertilizers;

soften the soil forest litter or peat.

Remember that it is easier to protect against a disease than to treat it later.

How to protect raspberries from pests and diseases

Mulching is one of the ways to protect. By protecting the roots of the plant, such a surface layer will allow the plant to grow stronger and postpone the process of cracking of the stems, when they become resistant to the disease, to a later date. The mulch layer must be removed when the first buds appear. The soil underneath is always saturated with moisture, this can cause rotting, death of the buds and ultimately drying out.

Mulching is one of the the most important conditions preparing the plant for winter. It prevents freezing of roots and shoots, prevents moisture evaporation and protects from constant winds in some regions.

If you trim damaged stems in time, you can save part of the bush. You need to trim all areas covered with dark spots and small growths.. It will be better to completely remove the entire “sick” shoot.

Spraying, which should be carried out during the period, will help to allow the bush to strengthen and grow. rapid growth , at the beginning and in the middle of summer. The lower part of the plant is treated, 25–30 cm upward from the ground level. Suitable mixtures for this are “Actellik” - 0.2%, “Fufanon” - 0.3% and “Topaz” - 0.1%. Fruiting raspberries should be sprayed with the same preparations before flowering and after harvesting. To preserve the integrity of the berries, after flowering you need to carry out 3 treatments with the biological product “Fitoverm” - 0.3% with an interval of 1 week.

Proper planting of young plants

How new bushes are planted will determine their resistance to shoot gall midge larvae and viral diseases.

Young plants need to be planted away from old bushes, which can be infected with larvae and fungi.

It is necessary to rinse the roots under the pressure of water and wash away all the soil from them. It is recommended to dig a small hole nearby where water and remaining soil will drain. There may be unhatched shoot gall midge eggs in the roots that need to be neutralized, i.e. bury

The roots should be placed on a hard surface or placed in metal mesh so as not to damage.

After landing completely trim raspberry stems, even if you plant it in the spring.

If possible, The raspberry plant should be covered with non-woven material to prevent infection with viral infections spread by flying insects.

Spray once every 2 weeks Bordeaux mixture or other chemicals approved for raspberries. During this period, it is not the high yield that is important, but the strengthening of the stems and protection from pests and diseases.

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