How to apply white wax for wood. Oil-wax for wood: advantages, correct choice and application technology. Where can I use wood wax?

In this article I will tell you about an awesome thing - homemade wax impregnation.

With its help, you can make fabric, leather or wood waterproof, and also protect metal from rust.

What is extremely pleasing is that the cost of this cream is extremely low, and production is elementary.

All ingredients can be obtained without any problems, whether now or after the mythical BP.

This impregnation, in my opinion, should be included in the arsenal of every hiker, survivalist and bushcrafter. In any case, I am extremely pleased with her.

So. To prepare we will need:

Beeswax. It is purchased in stores selling honey. The cost is 500 rubles per kilogram. In case of BP, it is obtained by barter at the nearest apiary.

Natural linseed oil (not oxol). Purchased at hardware stores. It is inexpensive, 100 rubles for 400 g. In BP it is made from linseed or sunflower oil by long-term boiling.

Turpentine is also sold in hardware stores and is even cheaper than drying oil. In BP it is produced by distillation from resin.

Three wax on a grater.

Melt the grated wax in a water bath. After complete melting, remove from heat and stir in drying oil.

I prepared the first recipe without turpentine. I simply mixed wax and drying oil one to one by weight.

Then I poured it into the mold and set it to cool.

Looking ahead, I will say that the option without turpentine is not so convenient to use, but it can be smeared even on the face.

I liked the option with turpentine more in terms of ease of application.
To prepare it, you must maintain the following proportions: two parts wax, one part drying oil and one part turpentine.

The recipe is similar. Melt the wax in a water bath, remove from heat, add drying oil and mix thoroughly, add turpentine and also mix thoroughly, then leave to cool.

To fill this rather large jar (it's larger than shoe polish jars),
you need 75 grams of wax and two tablespoons of drying oil with turpentine.

After hardening.
The version without turpentine is very dense and does not melt in your hands.
The version with turpentine is quite dense, but at the same time the consistency is pasty. If you take a piece in your hands, it will slowly begin to melt. Due to turpentine it has a slight resinous smell.

There are several application methods:

Firstly, it is well suited for wood. Take a large piece of impregnation and spread it thickly on wooden surface.

Then we warm it up with a hairdryer; on a hike it can be a fire.

And polish it with some kind of cloth. As a result, the wax penetrates into the pores of the wood and it becomes moisture resistant. Water simply does not wet it.

We simply spread it thickly on the metal. You don't have to warm it up. Now the piece of iron will not rust because... no contact with water.

The second method of treating wood is vigorous rubbing of impregnation. As a result, it melts from the heat of the hands and friction and also covers the wood wonderfully.

German technician Winfried Müller tested the products of 13 of the largest European manufacturers of oils and waxes for wood. We present a shortened version of the article published on the website www.wikidorf.de.

Introduction

The beginning of the testing turned out to be simple: most of the products performed almost identically, since the main component was the same natural oil - flaxseed oil. However, the further we went, the more noticeable the differences were.

Confusion arose as soon as it came to the composition: some products resembled paint or glaze. One manufacturer's solid oil was similar to another manufacturer's glaze and a third manufacturer's waxy oil. If we were to take a strict approach, different formulations would have to be called differently - but we only need to know what can be expected from the product, so excessive detail is not required.

Types of coatings

Wood is usually protected in two ways:

impregnated with oil - then the fibers will not be able to absorb water and dirt;
covered with a protective layer (varnish, wax or paint).

But now there are many hybrid options on the market - so you need to look at whether the coating absorbs the wood or whether it forms a protective layer on it. In the second case, we need to know how reliable the protection will be.

When applying wax, the protective layer becomes soft and can even be scratched with a fingernail. Therefore, wax is most in demand as a filler for wood fibers to protect against moisture.

A thin protective layer is formed by oil, which contains wax (especially hard wax), resins and drying agents.

Solvent

IN recent years Manufacturers are increasingly offering products at water based. This trend is likely to continue as such formulations produce less pollution. environment. But water-based coatings also have disadvantages.

are distributed unevenly;
are not stored for a long time;
When applied, they dry quickly, which increases their consumption.

In this regard, I prefer solvent-based products, to which I am not allergic, or natural oils. The latter requires more time to process, but is also more durable than varnish or synthetic paint. This must be kept in mind - although we should not forget: durability largely depends on the ability of the wood to absorb the composition.

Another aspect: reviews various compositions can only be useful if they are not superficial. Unfortunately, reviews are often limited to only a few products, whereas for a full comparison it is necessary to consider all the well-known brands that are widely available for sale.

Overview of oils and waxes

Kreidezeit products

Since 1987, the company has been producing environmentally friendly products from natural, renewable raw materials. The compositions are based on traditional recipes, adapted to today's requirements.

The company's catalog contains about 200 products - they are developed and produced in-house (except for color pigments).

Solid oil PureSolid

Contains: linseed and tung oils and rosin. Does not contain synthetic solvents. The oil entered the market in 2006.

Can this solvent-free composition penetrate deep into wood? Experience with its use on beech has shown that yes. During the test (60 minutes, 20°C), the wood absorbed about 130 g/m² of oil. The manufacturer recommends PureSolid for covering countertops and wooden floors: Unfortunately, it was not possible to test the oil on surfaces subject to heavy wear, for example the floor.

If necessary, the oil can be diluted with turpentine, which makes sense when working with resinous wood (pine, larch, spruce).

The oil can be heated in a water bath to 60 °C for hot application, which, however, is not always necessary.

The oil takes a long time to absorb - you should wait at least 45 minutes before rubbing in any excess.

The surface treated with PureSolid oil becomes shiny, especially if you rub it twice with a soft cloth (for example, white pad).

In general, the composition is easy to apply, even beginners can work with it.

Hard wax Kreidezeit

Contains: linseed and wood oils, beeswax and carnauba wax and turpentine as a solvent. The consistency of the wax resembles solid honey.

The material is easy to work with, but it is important to apply it in a thin layer. If you do the opposite, then when the solvent evaporates, the thick layer of wax will become sticky.

4–6 hours after applying the wax, the surface must be polished; if you do this earlier, the pad will stick, the same is possible when applying a thick layer of wax. The end result: a silky-to-touch surface with a slight shine, on which, alas, even minor damage. The coating itself is durable.

Attention! Wooden children's toys are not covered with wax.

Carnauba wax emulsion Kreidezeit

This is a product for the care of waxed and oiled floors. It consists mainly of water-emulsified carnauba wax (from the leaves of the palm tree Copernicia cerifera).

This is a care product that can be added to water for cleaning floors (3 tablespoons per 8-10 liters). Since wax does not have a cleaning effect, first wash heavily soiled floors with a cleaning agent. If the floor has been oiled or waxed recently, it is best to treat it with a wax emulsion before you walk on it.

Products Natural

Natural is a small family business in Austria that has specialized in the production of natural paints since 1976. The company is a member of the registered association of natural paint manufacturers ENAV, which also includes: Auro, Beeck'sche Farbenwerke, Naturhaus, Leinos, Livos and Biofa.

Winfried Müller: “What I like more and more when working with natural oils is their smell. It can be addictive"

Solid wood oil

This is a classic processing oil that contains solid and solvent in a ratio of approximately 1:1. The oil is well absorbed and has a pleasant aroma - it contains isoaliphates (solvents with low toxicity) and orange peel oil.

The composition gradually penetrates into the pores of the wood and dries for a long time. Tests on beech showed that the wood was well saturated and the second coat required very little oil, but it also took a long time to dry.

The composition is suitable for children's toys. Due to the simplicity of application and processing technology, even beginners can work with oil. For heavily loaded surfaces (floor, countertop), the company recommends parquet oil, since it is even more durable.

Natural parquet oil

The product resembles solid wood oil, but contains less solvent: the ratio of solvent to solids is approximately 2:3.

The oil takes a long time to dry (60–90 minutes); when using a thin layer, a polymer film forms on the surface of the composition half an hour after application. In this case, you need to either add more oil or remove the supernatant (supernatant layer) after 10–15 minutes. It is important not to miss the moment.

The oil is mainly used for treating floors, but it is also recommended for countertops.

Finishing oil

This oil is applied to the oiled surface. It easily forms a polymer film and makes the surface more elastic. After polishing, the surface becomes silky-glossy - and this despite the fact that the oil contains no wax.

The oil forms a fairly hard surface (cannot be scratched with a fingernail), which is most likely due to the high content of resins (rosin and damar). It is well suited for processing softwood.

The smell is soft, slightly reminiscent of orange. It is important to shake the jar well before use; it is also worth stirring while working: the resins quickly form a sediment. Not recommended for use on waxed surfaces.

Finishing oil is suitable for treating surfaces that require special protection. It can also be used instead of natural oil glaze to temporarily protect the surface.

Winfried Müller: “Although oil is used only as a finish on an already treated surface, I used it as the only treatment for the wood. This works well on normally loaded surfaces (when applied in two coats).”

The oil has not been tested for suitability for processing children's toys!

Natural glaze for wood

Glaze can be used as a coloring oil: in this case it emphasizes the structure of the surface. But it is important to note: not all wood is suitable for glazing - coloring pigments may penetrate unevenly into the pores of solid wood. For example, beech becomes spotted after treatment.

There is an option: you can apply the coating in a very thin layer. In this case, the glaze (very liquid and easily absorbed) is well distributed.

At interior work Oh, it’s also better not to apply the glaze in a thick layer, since different areas of the surface will shine differently. In addition, azure is not very hard; its polished surface is easy to damage.

Another option for using azure on hard rocks wood – rough sanding (P120).

At the ends of buildings, azure should be used with caution: since in these places the composition is absorbed better than on a regular surface. This can lead to profound color changes on the edge surfaces.

Drying to form a polymer layer takes a little longer than with oil. The fully treated surface dries only after 1–2 weeks.

Natural oil for treating terraces

This oil - colorless or pigmented - is intended for external processing wood Because it dries quickly, it is ideal for patios, decking and garden furniture.

On the outside, it usually makes sense to use pigmented oils. The visual aspect plays a role here, although some woods treated with clear oil are also quite beautiful.

However, pigments always provide UV protection, although to a lesser extent than special additives.

Natural decking oil penetrates the wood like regular oil, but forms a hard, thin layer on the surface due to the natural resins it contains.

20–30 minutes after application, the oil must be spread over the surface again in an even thin layer. After drying, it will acquire a characteristic shine. Under natural conditions, drying lasts about a week, after which it is recommended to treat the surface with a second layer. To renew the coating, it is enough to coat the wood with one layer of oil.

Beginners like to cover the surface with too thick a layer, guided by the principle “A lot is not a little!” In this case, this is not true: excess oil will have to be removed from the surface with a rag or clothing (it depends on your luck), and the coating itself will remain sticky for a long time.

Osmo Products

Osmo products are noticeably different from conventional oils and waxes: when used, a polymer layer is almost always obtained on the surface of the wood. Unlike other manufacturers, Osmo uses not linseed and tung oils in its products, but sunflower, soybean and thistle oils. The composition also contains candelilla and carnauba wax, paraffins; White spirit is used as a solvent.

Osmo tries to combine the naturalness of the product and good properties, so sometimes you can find in the composition anything but “problem-free” chemical compounds, for example 2-butanone oxime (banned from production in Canada as a potential carcinogen). However, this substance quickly evaporates after processing and is not contained in the coating after polymerization. Also, in recent years (as of 2015), the company’s products contain sorbents based on cobalt salts, which has been criticized by Ökotest.

The oils used by the manufacturer are not as high quality as linseed, but Osmo somehow managed to make high-quality coatings based on them. Their advantage is the absence of a strong odor.

Osmo Hard Wax Oil

Osmo Hard Wax Oil is Osmo's most famous product. Treating countertops, floors, and other surfaces that are constantly exposed to it has proven to be very effective. Often Osmo Hard Wax Oil is considered as an alternative to classic oil in terms of application method.

It is applied to the surface in a very thin layer. It dries quickly enough without rubbing. For application, it is better to use a brush with artificial fiber; the bristles will be too rough for the oil.

It is very important to mix the oil well before starting work! Excess oil should not be allowed to form on the surface, so as not to spoil the natural grain of the wood.

There is no need to sand the surface between coats, but if the wood fibers remain rough after the first drying, they can be smoothed with a fine-grained sanding agent. sandpaper(P320-400).

Winfried Müller: “Even though the oil dries relatively quickly, I will still be careful with the surface during the first two weeks after applying the topcoat.”

The surface after treatment became pleasant and smooth to the touch. The film formed on top of the wood is strong and elastic. In addition, it is resistant to moisture: even after spilled water was left on the treated surface for a day, no stains formed.

It is better to treat small parts in another way: apply oil with a thin soft cloth in several layers (from 3 to 6 - depending on the load expected on the surface). The gloss in this case will be matte.

Osmo Hard Wax Oil, unlike most products, protects wood primarily on the surface: beech is characterized by a coating penetration depth of 0.1–0.5 mm (usually for oil this figure is 1–4 mm). Because of this, damage and deep scratches need to be treated again.

The solvent used is gasoline with aromatic compounds. The treated surface smells strongly, especially in the first weeks, and then the smell is practically not felt.

If you need oil for painting wood, the manufacturer's line includes colored oil with hard wax. After applying it, it is recommended to renew the coating with a colorless compound or decorative wax.

Before using oil, the wood must be sanded with an abrasive of at least P150 grit. For furniture made of hardwood, this figure should be increased to P180–240.

After processing and polishing the coating, the thin layer of wax becomes quite hard, but it is important to note: if the layer of oil is more than recommended, the layer will remain soft even after years.

Sometimes information appears on the Internet that the treated coating can deteriorate if you place a hot bowl on it, etc. The test results (a cup of boiling water stood on the treated surface for an hour) showed that there were no marks left on the wood.

In 2009, Osmo Hartwachsöl Pure was developed, which contains virtually no solvents (less than 1%). The way it treats wood will be different, because the composition is more viscous compared to the oil in question.

The oil contains white pigments, but the resulting color is quite subdued. Apply the oil in a thin layer no more than 2-3 times.

Testing the composition on pine and beech showed good results. The oil was applied twice, and the surface was polished after each layer.

Osmo Low Wax Oil

The composition is quite liquid, the consistency resembles water. Unlike many other Osmo products, this oil penetrates deeply into the wood and does not form a protective layer on the surface. 30 minutes after application, the composition should be completely wiped off the surface.

Testing has shown that beech absorbs about 100 g/m² of the composition in 30 minutes. During this time, the oil penetrates quite deeply into the pores of the wood and gives the material a slight yellowish tint.

The processing technology is simple: it is unlikely that anything will be done incorrectly. The oil does not stick if you wipe off any remaining residue after processing.

The composition of the oil is approximately the same as other Osmo oils: sunflower, soybean and safflower oils, carnauba and candelilla waxes, paraffin, drying agents, polysiloxanes (silica based), 2-butanone oxime, dearomatized white spirit.

Osmo glaze for application in one layer and transparent glaze

Winfried Müller: “Advertising claims that to protect the wood, applying this glaze in one layer is quite enough. I'm very skeptical and think this is a "lazy compromise". Of course, it will take less time to process the wood if you apply the coating in one layer, and the result is quite acceptable.

But there is also a problem: there will always be a surface that was accidentally not treated properly, and one layer will not cover all the flaws, but covering it with two layers will solve this problem. Therefore, I believe that a coating with good protective properties is always applied in 2-3 layers. Everything else is nothing more than advertising promises.”

Azure is intended for both internal and external work (except for windows - they require a coating with a thicker protective layer). After the first application, the effect is barely noticeable, unless the wood does not completely absorb the composition: in this case, a transparent layer remains on the surface. After applying the second layer, a satin shine remains on the surface in any case.

Thanks to its oily-liquid consistency, the glaze saturates the wood well. In places where there is resin on the tree, a shiny surface is initially formed, but after weathering it becomes dull.

After processing with transparent glaze, a matte shine remains on the surface; otherwise, it is no different from single-layer glaze.

Livos products

In 2003, the company, with a turnover of approximately €4 million, employed 55 employees. Now the company's products are one of the best-selling natural paints and oils on the market.

Manufacturers do not use drying agents based on cobalt salts. The most commonly used solvents are isoaliphates; despite the fact that these substances are petroleum products, they practically do not cause allergies. Some of the company's products contain orange oil and turpentine along with ethanol and water.

Typically, Livos oils are liquid in consistency with a sediment due to the small amount of wax they contain. When wood treated with Livos oil dries, it acquires a uniform silky shine.

Natural oil Koimos 196

Koimos 196 is especially interesting to test because it contains neither cobalt salts nor solvents. This good alternative for people who suffer from allergies or are sensitive to chemicals.

Winfried Müller: “Is this oil as good as others? I think there will be some compromises to be made when using it. Firstly, the oil takes quite a long time to dry. Practical tests showed that 8 hours after applying it to a glass plate it was still liquid. After 24 hours it was quite soft. The oil finally polymerized only after 4 weeks.

Second point: even after drying, the oil remains much softer than Kunos Arbeisplattenöl or natural Kunos oil.”

Since the oil contains wax, it lends itself well to polishing; the second layer of coating is actually polishing and is - after applying it to the surface with a very thin layer (about 3 g/m2), the wood must be polished with a soft cloth, a white pad or a special machine.

Parquet oil Livos Koimos 277

The composition of Livos Koimos 277 parquet oil is practically no different from the previous composition.

For floors that are subject to heavy loads, it is worth using oil with a stronger protective film - at least for applying the finishing layer. Oil consumption is quite small - about 30–40 g/m².

Liquid oil Livos Kunos 243

This oil is suitable for treating countertops, window sills, and also for work in bathrooms. It is resistant to prolonged exposure to water, and the presence of wax in the composition makes it possible to polish to a shine.

Since 2012 (from batch No. 21281), orange oil has not been added to the composition, and now it can also be used by allergy sufferers.

To process wood, 3 layers are enough. The second and third are applied 12 and 24 hours after the first, respectively. The oil dries completely within a month after finishing coat.

Its consumption when applied in 3 layers is approximately 65–100 g/m2. For subsequent restoration of the coating, a minimum of approximately a teaspoon per m2 is sufficient.

Natural oil Livos Kunos 244 for highly loaded surfaces

Livos Kunos 244 is a universal oil in the Livos range. It is suitable for treating any surface: floors, furniture, tables (including multiplex), children's toys.

However, this is a Classic oil, so people who are sensitive to chemicals may experience allergies (this applies to processing, not subsequent use).

Natural oil can be colorless or pigmented in different colors. Colorless oil is almost no different from Kunos 241 in composition, processing technology and price.

Wood with small pores must be sanded before processing. Tests on beech showed that when finely sanded (P180), the pigments do not stain the wood, but when sanded with P120 abrasive, the color is clearly visible.

After polishing, a thin protective coating with a silky glossy shine is formed on the surface of the wood.

Furniture oil Livos Darix 297

Darix is very similar to colored oil, but it is also suitable for fine workmanship to achieve more coloring options. After initial treatment with colorless oil, surfaces experiencing high loads must also be treated with Darix oil. This will protect the color pigments from abrasion.

As with Livos Kunos 244, pre-treatment is important: dense woods absorb pigments slowly. Testing showed that when treated with P120 abrasive, the color was better than after P180. The final result also depends on the color of the wood.

Direct comparison with Natural's glaze: Natural is applied thinner and stains the wood more strongly. You can remove the supernatant completely, but the color will still show up well.

After the first treatment and drying, the supernatant is leveled with a cloth or a dry brush. To apply the second layer, simply wipe the surface with a cloth soaked in the composition.

AURO products

The AURO company is located next to Livos and produces natural paints. After Hermann Fischer, the founder of Livos, left his post in the early 80s, he founded AURO some time later. Today he still works at AURO Aktiengesellschaft. In 1992 he was recognized as “Eco-Manager of the Year” (Capital/WWF).

In recent years, a variety of water-based products have been developed to reduce the amount of solvents in oils, varnishes and paints. This transition was not always easy. Experience shows that some water-based products do not produce the best results, but they do not have a negative impact on the environment. It is obvious that development will continue in this direction.

AURO refrains from using petrochemical raw materials. Orange oil is used as a solvent, if necessary.

Hard wax AURO No. 171

The consistency of AURO hard wax is pasty, slightly softer than candied honey. Contains only natural oils and waxes.

After application, the composition must be left for an hour and then polished while it is still soft. Smooth the surface with a dry brush or cloth and remove excess wax. If the surface has already been treated with oil or wax, it is enough to apply a thin layer and leave it without further polishing. A thick layer will take a long time to dry and will be sticky for a long time.

The resulting protective layer is quite hard and durable, but it should not be used for countertops because wax is sensitive to high temperatures—even a hot cup will leave marks on the countertop.

Hard wax AURO No. 171 is suitable for stressed surfaces and even untreated wood. Thanks to the oils it contains, the surface of the wood becomes less susceptible to moisture, which does not happen when treated with pure wax.

After a day, the surface dries, but still not completely. The wax finally hardens after 3–4 weeks.

Attention: in an open jar, a film quickly forms on the wax. The container with wax should be closed to prevent oxygen from reaching the composition.

AURO oil for application in one layer No. 109

The composition of the product is flax, tung and milk thistle oil. The oil does not contain any resins and can be used by people allergic to rosin.

The consistency of the oil is quite viscous; in half an hour when applying the first layer on the beech surface, from 30 to 60 g/m² was absorbed (at a temperature of 20 ° C).

After application, the oil should be left for 30 minutes and then the supernatant should be removed, as after an hour surface polymerization will begin and the supernatant will be difficult to remove. And if direct sunlight falls on the coating, polymerization will occur even faster.

The oil dries completely only after a month, which is quite a long time, but this is compensated by a good end result.

Solid wood oil AURO PurSolid No. 123

This oil is suitable for treating surfaces subject to increased stress: floors, furniture, work surfaces. It contains linseed, tung and thistle oils. Resins, as in the previous case, are not used, which is important for allergy sufferers.

The consistency of the oil is similar to AURO No. 109, but is less prone to polymerization within an hour. The problem, however, remains: if the “capture” process has already begun, it will be extremely difficult to remove the supernatant: even adding fresh oil does not help.

It takes longer for the oil to be absorbed into the pores of the wood, but the consumption is much higher: 150 g/m² - with polishing and 132 g/m² - without polishing. When applying the second layer, the consumption is minimal - about 5 g/m2.

The oil finally hardens 2–4 weeks after applying the finishing layer. The smell from it disappears completely after 6–8 weeks.

You can add a solvent to the oil (up to 20%), but the manufacturer assures that for most wood species this is not at all necessary. This may be necessary for processing species that contain a lot of resins (pine, larch).

It is worth noting: although the oil dries slowly, if you leave the jar open for several days, a jelly-like film forms on the surface.

Experiments on beech, spruce, pine, paulownia, oak, ash and walnut gave good results.

Hard primer AURO No. 127

The primer with an aqueous solvent is suitable for pre-treatment of wood before applying AURO wax No. 187 or finishing the floor with AURO No. 267. It contains flax, ricin, sunflower, rapeseed oils, rosin, mineral fillers, borates and several additives.

A test on beech showed that the original color of the wood was almost preserved: the primer does not penetrate only into the very top layer of the wood and makes it insensitive to moisture and dirt. After applying the oil, the wood should be brushed with a dry brush so that the primer penetrates completely into the wood.

After 24 hours, the surface is well dry and can be treated with abrasive. It is enough to use sandpaper P180–240, gently wiping the surface. Do not sand the wood too hard; the protective effect of the primer will be lost.

Biopin products

Biopin Biopin is the largest manufacturer of natural paints in Europe; not in last resort this is due to attractive prices.

Some Biopin products contain water as a solvent: you can almost completely abandon other solvents, this will have a good effect on the environment, but may complicate the process of working with materials.

Many Biopin products were developed before 2009 and used orange oil as a solvent. After it was found to be an "irritant and environmentally hazardous substance", the product was reformulated. Biopin now does not use orange oil and has switched to using isoaliphates.

Natural hard wax

Usually wax is applied to an already oiled surface. The consistency is similar to cream, the smell is reminiscent of lemon.

Provides additional protection to an already treated surface. The application process is very simple: just apply the wax and rub it in with a soft cloth.

Initial drying takes from 10 to 30 minutes, the coating can be polished after 3-6 hours. Wax is relatively soft, so it should be used on surfaces that are not heavily exposed.

Oil for countertops

This oil has a very low viscosity, so it can penetrate deep into the wood. A measurement carried out by Winfried Müller showed a ratio of about 60% solvent and about 40% solid content. Previously, orange oil was used as a solvent; since 2009, isoaliphates have been used.

To apply the first layer you need a lot of composition, because it penetrates deeply into the pores of the wood. The second layer is applied more economically, so when working in two or three layers (which is how it is recommended to use oil), the consumption is small.

Both beech and spruce showed good saturation of the wood after the second coat, but for heavy-duty surfaces such as tabletops, it is recommended to work in three layers.

The oil is easy and quick to apply; it is better to remove its excess with a cloth: when applying the composition in a thin layer, a film quickly forms on the surface; too thick a layer will complicate the drying process. When in doubt, it is better to apply too thin a layer than too thick.

After treating the surface, you need to wait 15–30 minutes (the manufacturer recommends 15 minutes) and wipe off the remaining oil on the wood with a cloth.

Furniture treatment oil

The composition of the oil is approximately the same as countertop oil, but resins are listed as additional ingredients.

It is suitable for any type of wood from Europe, in fact it is universal remedy for wood processing.

After applying the oil, the surface should be left for 10 minutes (as stated by the manufacturer), and then the supernatants should be removed. Testing on wood showed that even after an hour the oil does not polymerize and is easy to wipe off.

During the application of the second coat, the oil continues to be strongly absorbed into the wood. Total consumption it is up to 150–200 g/m2, but with timely removal of the supernatant, the consumption will range from 50 to 80 g/m2 - depending on the type of wood.

The oil dries quite quickly: after 3–5 hours it hardens (unlike 12–24 hours for other oils) and a second layer can be applied.

Always open the jar only briefly to ensure the oil lasts longer. Never apply directly from the can unless you plan to use the whole thing in the near future.

Solid oil

The composition of the product remains essentially unchanged: linseed and tung oil, isoaliphates as a solvent, resin. The ratio of solvent to solids is approximately 55 to 45.

The thinner the layer, the faster it becomes sticky (10–20 minutes after treatment). If you did not have time to remove the supernatant layer, you can dissolve the polymer film in fresh oil.

After polishing, the surface acquires a silky glossy shine. Since the oil contains quite a lot of resins, a protective layer is formed after two coatings.

To work with oil, you need a lint-free cloth; paper towels will not work.

Beginners may find working with oil difficult, but experienced users will appreciate all its advantages.

Hard wax oil

Contains: linseed and tung oil, isoaliphates as a solvent. Rosin and carnauba wax add additional properties to the oil.

After processing the wood, a waxy film appears on its surface, which remains very soft in the first few days. Hardening takes approximately 1–2 weeks: until this point the surface remains sticky.

Polishing wax that has not had time to dry is difficult: 12 hours after application, working with a cloth did not bring any results. A week later, the same surface after polishing gives a beautiful silky glossy shine.

Leinos products

Since 1986, Leinos has been one of the leading manufacturers of natural wood products. However, Leinos GmbH went bankrupt in 2007, and production under its brand is now carried out by Reincke Naturfarben GmbH from Buxtehude.

Almost all products are hypoallergenic, but a number of impregnations contain turpentine and orange oil, which can cause allergies. In other cases, isoparaffin is used as a solvent.

Leinos interior oil

This newly developed product of the company is intended for the treatment of wooden surfaces mainly in public places and retail outlets. The oil forms a strong protective film on the surface of the wood - probably due to the ingredients used: urea polycondensate and polysilicate nanoparticles.

The oil must be stirred well before application as it contains suspended solids that dissolve quickly. The supernatant must be removed within 20–45 minutes after application. After 5–8 hours, you can apply the second layer.

It finally hardens, as testing has shown, in approximately 2–5 days.

The main problem with the composition is that it is not resistant to moisture: stains appear on the surface, which is especially noticeable on beech and pine.

Leinos wood coloring oil

A liquid oil that is mixed with a reddish-brown pigment. It manifests its properties differently on various breeds wood: on beech, for example, it lays down with a warm reddish-brown tint.

Before processing, it is necessary to carry out testing - because if the wrong choice is made, the color of the wood may deteriorate.

The composition and method of application are no fundamentally different from the previous composition. It is important to know that when working with any pigmented oil, it must be stirred well before use.

Coloring oils sometimes reveal previously invisible wood structure, including defects and scratches. To ensure that the result does not disappoint, it is necessary to pay special attention to surface preparation.

Naturhaus products

Naturhaus is focused on the use of renewable and natural raw materials. The company is known as a supplier of finishing materials for large cruise ships such as the Queen Mary II, one of the largest passenger ships in the world.

Naturhaus High Solid oil

This solid oil contains virtually no solvents: it contains little orange oil (less than 5%). Nevertheless, there are drying substances - compounds of calcium, zirconium and cobalt.

The oil is easy to apply; long term polymerization of the supernatant layer (about an hour) makes it easy to remove the supernatant.

During an hour of operation, oil consumption on beech was 84 g/m2; when applying the second layer - about 10–20 g/m2. Drying time is about 12 hours; Complete drying takes several weeks.

Where the surface is subject to severe wear, the manufacturer recommends pre-priming with hard oil.

Naturhaus hard wax for interior work

Naturhaus hard wax, close in consistency to ointment, contains carnauba wax, beeswax, and linseed oil. It does not contain solvents.

The surface should be polished 1–2 hours after applying the wax: at this time the wax is still soft and polishing will be easy.

The wax hardens quite slowly: you will have to wait 2-3 days before it becomes hard. The manufacturer talks about 12 hours, but this is too little. The wax hardens completely after 7 days.

Wax in a jar often polymerizes on the surface if oxygen access to it is not blocked.

PNZ Products

PNZ has been in business for over 20 years and has been increasingly switching to solvent-free products since 1994.

The peculiarity is that most PNZ wood oils are not based on linseed or tung oil, but contain thistle, poppy, walnut and canola oils, sunflower and soybean oils.

On the one hand, this ensures the absence of a bitter odor from linseed oil. On the other hand, the used components are much more difficult to use and obtain good results from their use.

Colored oil PNZ

This is not a classic wood oil, but rather oil paint water based. The manufacturer indicates that one layer is often enough: for a water-based oil, this is a very good result.

The surface dries quite quickly: after an hour, the colored oil is usually already dry. Grinding, polishing and removal of supernatant are not possible. The oil is suitable for both internal and external work.

Hard wax PNZ

This is an oilseed wax product that penetrates the wood to a very shallow depth and leaves a protective layer on the surface. It is designed for use on surfaces that are subject to heavy wear and tear, such as wood floors and countertops.

Due to its slightly thick consistency, it is also suitable for wood with large pores: even in this case, the consumption remains quite low. However, the surface must be smooth, so after drying it is necessary to polish the coating under pressure.

The supernatant must be removed 10–30 minutes after application. The sediment on the surface is vigorously wiped off with a cloth. Final polishing is carried out one day after the finishing coat. Result when correct use: homogeneous silky-glossy surface.

Beginners should not use this composition; you should at least try to work with wax on small area before starting work.

And the main point regarding the composition is water resistance. Tests on beech have shown that short exposure to water has no effect on the surface. A long test (1 hour) showed catastrophic results: water penetrates into the wood, which begins to swell greatly. Ugly matte spots remain on the surface. If such an impact is possible extremely rarely, this is not critical: you can make a good partial repair - sand the surface and reapply the composition.

Wood treatment oil PNZ

The composition of the product remains virtually unchanged: flaxseed, nut, sunflower, poppy, rapeseed, tung and thistle oils. This ensures an almost complete absence of odor, which is characteristic of impregnations based on linseed and tung oil or containing a solvent.

On the other hand, the oil takes a long time to dry - complete hardening occurs 7-10 days after application. The coating remains relatively soft even after this period. It is much softer than after treatment with other oils - even the relatively soft thistle. Testing has shown that the coating is easily scratched by a fingernail even with slight pressure.

Although the recommended area of use is wooden floors, this oil is not suitable for treating highly loaded surfaces as a topcoat - only as a primer, over which a solid oil or wax is applied.

Wood wax PNZ

A water-based product that more closely resembles a wax glaze. A viscoplastic layer is formed on the treated surface. protective film with silk shine.

The results of applying the first layer are not impressive: the wax is almost completely absorbed into the wood and does not give shine. The second coat after polishing gives a light silky shine.

The instructions say that the composition is well suited for treating wet rooms: the treated surface has good water-repellent properties. The test showed that even after 8 hours, water does not penetrate the wood. The staining liquid left a barely noticeable stain on the wood after 4 hours.

PNZ wood wax is heat sensitive and all it takes is a hot coffee cup to damage the surface. Therefore, the material is very conditionally suitable for processing tables and countertops.

Volvox/Ecotec products

Volvox / Ecotec is a manufacturer of natural paints that has been on the market since 1989. It is a relatively small manufacturer in Lüdenscheid.

Volvox solid oil

A classic oil containing about 60% solids and about 40% solvent (isoparaffins). The oil contains skin preventatives (possibly butanone oxymone, which many other natural dye manufacturers avoid).

Dried oil is of medium hardness: a scratch will form even if you press hard on the protective layer with your fingernail.

Products Dick GmbH

The company has been specializing in the manufacture of high-quality tools for many years; the production of oils and paints for it is a related field. Moreover, the products are 100% natural oils.

Chinese tung oil Lignea

Tung oil is found in most of the stains we've reviewed above, but in this case it's a pure oil that typically dries to a tack-free finish in a week or less without drying additives.

The oil has a rather strong odor, sometimes described as "the smell fried potatoes" It is very persistent and will appear even after many years if there is a lack of oxygen, so it is not recommended to treat the internal surfaces of cabinets and chests of drawers with tung oil.

In its liquid state, tung oil can irritate the skin, so wear protective gloves when working with it.

Swedish linseed oil Linolja

Pure flaxseed oil is available pre-oxidized or unprocessed. “Pre-oxidation” occurs by bleaching it in the sun; it dries on the surface without driers in a short time (1–3 days).

Drying of untreated oil will take more than 1 to 4 weeks, which is impractical without drier. Swedish linseed oil is said to dry out faster.

Poppy oil

Poppy oil is also completely drying; it is popular because it does not have a yellow tint and is therefore well suited for processing light-colored wood: maple, birch. It dries much slower than linseed oil.

Poppy oil is rarely used by manufacturers of natural paints: it technical properties not as good as flax or tung oil.

Commercially available poppy oil is safe and can even be used in food. But it is strictly not recommended to pour oil from a jar into a frying pan if you want to fry cutlets.

Camellia Sinensis oil

Camellia oil is a non-drying liquid with a slightly nutty odor. In Japan, it has been used for centuries to care for knives and weapons. To treat the surface of wood, oils that do not dry should not be used. The exceptions are kitchen boards that are regularly oiled (for example, Adam's wood boards).

Products Erzgebirge Steinert

Erzgebirge Steinert does not specialize in the production of natural paints, but its catalog includes oils developed and produced by Livos. This is due to the fact that they so closely resemble these oils both in composition and technical characteristics.

Biofa products

The production of natural paints Biofa was founded in the late 70s. Ingredient information is completely transparent, so consumers can decide for themselves what risks they are exposed to. This is especially important for allergy sufferers.

In recent years, the company has developed several solvent-free and water-free products that are nevertheless easy to use.

Working surface oil Biofa 2052

Solvent-free oil contains some microlax, which settles to the bottom. Therefore, the composition must be shaken or mixed before use. The smell is quite weak, a little nutty.

Processing is carried out as usual: after 20-30 minutes the supernatant must be removed. The oil penetrates the wood very sparingly: a test on sanded beech for an hour showed that the consumption would be 46 g/m². The second layer is almost not absorbed - less than 3 g/m².

In general, wood should be treated in 2-3 layers. Depending on whether the wood absorbs oil well, even the second layer after hardening can be easily polished with a cloth. The first coat should be applied with a brush so that there is enough oil on the surface.

The composition of the oil is by no means indisputable: in addition to linseed, tung and ricin oil, it contains rosin ester, microlax, drying agents based on cobalt, zirconium and manganese salts.

It is suitable for treating countertops and can also be used as a universal furniture oil.

Any wood requires protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture damage, mold and other negative influences of the environment. For such protection, wood oil-wax is used. Waxing is considered an effective ancient method for coating solid wood structures.

Today, a variety of such compositions are offered for sale. Ready-made ingredients are prepared and additives of inorganic origin, oils, and beeswax are added. The solution is applied directly after the package has been opened.

Upon completion of application, the wood changes, acquiring a velvety tone and smoothness. Waxing qualitatively protects the surface from moisture. Now this composition can be purchased in any shade.

Shades

Wax for wood processing is offered by manufacturers in a variety of colors. Different shades can be combined if you need to get a certain shade. That is why light solutions can be obtained from dark solutions. To do this, they are diluted with colorless wax.

The varnish applied to the coating will make the surface much thicker and change the shade of the coating. To prevent wood deformation, white alcohol is added to the wax.

Application

As a building material, wood has various advantages, and when treated with special wax it can last for a long time. If you need to coat wood that already has a coating, then it is important to prepare the surface before waxing.

First of all, the existing layer should be removed with a solvent. Varnish inclusions that are not removed with a solvent are removed with a blade or a knife. After cleaning, you need to sand the surface and apply pre-prepared wax. Before applying it, it is important to dry the board thoroughly and also clean it with sandpaper.

In wax huge amount solid particles, so applying several layers is quite enough. In addition, the more solid particles in the material, the less the composition will need to be processed.

Drying procedure

The wax takes quite a long time to dry. It is desirable that the process occurs at night when room temperature. To level out the dried coating as much as possible, a special wood trowel in the form of a rounded plank is used.

Final processing stage

At the final stage, to give the surface a beautiful shine, it must be polished with a special brush. Best choice will become a rotating tool, fixed in a shaft chuck, with a drill drive or electric drill.

When processing this type of wax for interior wood work, the surface must be slightly warmed up so that the product will acquire a beautiful gloss.

Species

Wax intended for wood processing can be liquid, soft, or hard. Soft is used when it is necessary to update the array, give it attractive appearance, eliminate minor defects in the form of scratches, remove chips and dents.

Hard wax is also used for restoration purposes, but it gives a better effect when it is necessary to get rid of imperfections on the wood. Best qualities This wax is achieved due to its high degree of strength and increased resistance to mechanical influences.

The wax has a liquid consistency and contains additives of synthetic origin, due to which the desired liquid composition is achieved.

The advantage of this type is that it is easy to apply with a brush and penetrates even the smallest cracks.

Various modern manufacturers They offer wax for treating wood in the form of oily, pasty, and creamy formulations, which differ in consistency, application method, and the nature of the existing damage.

Processing nuances

Once you have decided which wax is best for wood, you can begin to apply it, after which a slight yellow tint can be seen. This is what is called waxing, that is the old fashioned way processing of products made from solid wood.

The texture of the wood becomes original, the board not only acquires an interesting natural tone, but also exudes a pleasant natural aroma.

In the process of treating a floor surface with wood wax, as in the photo, chemicals are included in the components of the hard grades, for this reason they are heated before use. Products with earth tones are now on sale.

This type of composition is applied with extreme caution, because the possibility of obtaining an uneven layer that is practically impossible to correct is not excluded, and the difference in shade will be too noticeable. To completely change the shade of the coating, it is not recommended to use an earthen coloring product, saturating the array not with oil, but with stain.

Photo of wax for wood

To protect wooden products and surfaces, water-repellent impregnation is often used. Impregnation for wood against moisture, fungi and rot is universal, so it can be applied to all types of wooden products and surfaces (walls, ceilings, floors, furniture, and so on).

Purpose of water-repellent impregnation

Water-repellent impregnation is a special substance that coats the surface to increase its protective properties. Typically used as such impregnation special mixtures which are sold in stores. There are both internal and external wood impregnations, as well as universal ones. You can also make protective impregnation yourself at home using oil and wax.

Wood impregnation performs the following functions:

Protection from water and precipitation. Wood can absorb water on contact, resulting in poor performance.
Protection from harmful bacteria. In case of prolonged contact with water, pathogenic microorganisms can settle in the wood and begin to destroy such a product from the inside, and the main danger is that such bacteria are almost impossible to destroy.
Protection from bugs and mechanical damage. Bark beetles have powerful jaws, and they usually live in large colonies, so they can very quickly destroy wooden products.

Oil or wax

The best substances for impregnating wood against fungus and mold are oil and wax. These substances have been used for more than 500 years, so their effectiveness has been proven in practice. Many people use either oil or wax for impregnation, however experienced craftsmen they prefer to use these substances together as part of a complex impregnation. Wax impregnation with the addition of oil perfectly protects wood from moisture, mold, fungi, bacteria and light mechanical damage, but at the same time they are completely safe for humans. It should be borne in mind that there is only one type of wax, but oils are different, but most often tung, teak, tar and linseed oil are used for impregnation.

Pros and cons of oil impregnation

Water-repellent impregnation based on wax and oil has many advantages:

Environmentally friendly (oils and wax are of natural origin).
The appearance of a beautiful matte shine, which improves appearance wooden surfaces and products.
Ease of processing. You can do the impregnation yourself at home, since this does not require special skills and knowledge.
Cheap and accessible. Oil and wax can be purchased at any specialized store that sells paint and varnish products, and their cost is quite low compared to chemical impregnations.

However, wax and oils for external impregnation tree has its limitations:

The protective impregnation wears off quite quickly, so it is recommended to impregnate the wood at least 3 times a year.
If the impregnation was applied carelessly, then at the end you will have to do additional cleaning to hide this defect.
Grease stains are clearly visible on the impregnation, so they must be promptly removed so that wooden surfaces and products look beautiful.

Tung oil

Tung oil is universal - it can be used to treat floorboards, ceilings, furniture, various products and so on. After application, it penetrates into the deepest layers of wood, so tung oil is usually used in cases where the master wants to emphasize the texture of a wooden product. Tung oil consumption - 100-150 g per 1 square meter(however, please note that if the air temperature is below +15 degrees, this impregnation thickens, which increases its consumption). Drying time is 1-2 days.

Linseed oil

Flaxseed oil is one of the the best materials for impregnation of wood. This oil has high waterproofing properties, so it is usually used to coat furniture, walls, floors, ceilings, interior doors, facades and so on. After application, linseed oil easily penetrates into any unevenness and cracks, so even old wooden products can be coated with it. Please note that after impregnation of wood with linseed oil, adhesion to the surface does not occur immediately, but optimal time Drying time is 2-3 days for each layer (for example, you applied linseed oil in three layers - in this case, such a substance should dry for 6-9 days).

teak oil

Teak oil is universal and is most often used to impregnate wood. Teak oil consists of three components - tung and linseed oil, as well as pine turpentine. In fact, teak oil is an improved version of tung oil because the flax and turpentine prevent thickening. You can treat floors, walls, ceilings, decorative items, toys, railings, furniture, dishes, various elements wooden elements landscape design and so on. Please note that teak oil is not recommended to be diluted with water, but it can be used in high humidity conditions (for example, in the kitchen or bathroom). Drying time is 1-2 days.

Tar oil

Tar oil has the strongest antiseptic properties, so it is usually used to coat large wooden objects - boats, external doors, houses and outbuildings, outdoor furniture and so on. It also dries very hard, so it can also be used as a protective coating against bugs and insects. Tar oil consists of linseed oil, stump resin and pine turpentine, and it can be stored even at negative temperature air. Consumption - 100-150 g of oil per 1 square meter. Please note that in some cases tar oil sets on the surface rather slowly, so after application the wooden surface or products must dry for at least 6-7 days to reduce the likelihood of peeling.

Tinting oil

So-called hydrophobic tinting oils have also become widespread. These impregnations are usually made from linseed and tung oil with the addition of various additives that improve the technical properties of the oil. There is no need to be afraid of such oils, since they also protect wood well from water, fungi, bacteria, insects and mechanical damage. They can impregnate almost all wooden surfaces - furniture, floors, ceilings, floors, various products, and so on. The most reliable are tinting oils such as “Shishka Premium”, “Mahogany”, “Walnut” and so on. When purchasing, it is recommended to read the label, since some tinting oils have their own application characteristics.

Impregnation of wood at home

You can also do wood impregnation yourself. To make such a mixture and apply it to wood, you will need the following tools:

Oil and wax.
Brush.
Kitchen grater.
Glass jar.
Any heating element (for example, a gas stove).
Large bowl (for heating wax and oil)
Foam sponge and soft cloth (to remove excess moisture-resistant impregnation).
Wooden or metal stick (for stirring the hydrophobic impregnation during heating).
Metal brush, spatula, construction hair dryer, sandpaper or any other available wood processing tools.

Impregnation technologies

Do-it-yourself hydrophobic impregnations for wood are applied to surfaces in various ways, but the most commonly used method is the smearing method and the soaking method. You also need to take into account that impregnation can be applied to wood only after preliminary surface treatment.

Preliminary stage

Water-repellent impregnation is applied only to the treated surface. Processing algorithm:

If the tree has an old coating (impregnation, paint, etc.), then it needs to be removed. This can be done using a spatula or a wire brush. If old paint If it is cleaned very poorly, then in this case it must be preheated with a hair dryer.
Now you need to sand the surface to make it smooth. It is recommended to do the treatment 2 times - with coarse and fine sandpaper.
Finally, use a rag to remove dust and various construction debris.

Preparation of the oil-wax mixture

Impregnation is done as follows:

Take the wax and grate it on a coarse grater.
Pour oil into a large metal container and place it on the fire.
When black smoke appears, add the grated wax and stir the mixture with a stick.
When the wax is completely dissolved, turn off the heat.
When the solution has cooled slightly (to +60 degrees and below), pour it into a glass jar.

The ratio of oil and wax should be:

Coating

Coating is used to protect large objects and/or surfaces (walls, ceilings, doors, large furniture, etc.). Algorithm:

Take a jar of oil-wax mixture and stir it with a stick.
Using a brush, apply impregnation to the wooden surface (it is recommended to apply the composition along the grain).
20 minutes after application, carefully remove excess impregnation with a rag.
Wait completely dry impregnation (in the case of tung oil - 1-2 days, in the case of linseed oil - 2-3 days, and so on).
If more durable protection of wood from rotting is required, then after drying you need to apply another 1-2 layers according to the standard algorithm.

Soaking

Soaking is suitable for impregnating small items (toys, wooden dishes, decorative items, etc.). Theoretically, it is possible to soak large removable surfaces and products, but this will require a large container, and the consumption of the composition will be very large. Algorithm:

Lay several layers of newspaper or protective paper on the floor.
Place a large metal container and fill it 50-60% with the oil-wax mixture.
Place wooden products there for 1 day.
Remove the products from the container and place them on newspaper or paper (it is recommended to place them on some inclined surface so that the oil drains).
Wait for the impregnation to dry.
If necessary, after complete absorption and drying, repeat the procedure again.

Waxing

If, in addition to beekeeping, you are interested in woodworking, or simply buy furniture, for example, from Ikea or other products made from natural wood, then this article is for you.

Today we will tell you how to make your own polishing wax or wax paste.

Wax has a wide and versatile application: for the production of wax, in cosmetics (lipstick and face creams), for the production of candles, as a waterproof product, as a base for polishing pastes and mixtures.
During World War II, wax was used in an unusual way: hundreds of thousands of kilograms of wax were used to coat metal parts of aircraft, shells, waterproof ignition devices and canvas tents. But traditionally, wax is used in the production of wood polishing wax (wax paste).

Old ones especially need waxing. antique furniture. Natural wood needs real nutrition and nothing better than beeswax brings a tree back to life.
Beeswax contains three main groups of substances: esters (70 - 75%), free fatty acids (12 - 15%), hydrocarbons (11 - 17%). Wax oxidation occurs so slowly that it can be neglected - pieces of wax found in excavated burials in Egypt still retain their flexibility. Wax, washed away by water from coastal rocks and buried for a long time on the seashore, can easily be recovered and suitable for use. The specific gravity of beeswax is 0.960-0.972 at a temperature of 15 C, and the boiling point is 62-66 C. Due to its ductility, the boiling point of beeswax is higher than that of any other type of wax. Beeswax is an amorphous wax and is not susceptible to moisture. It reacts well with solvent and thus beeswax is the best wax for making emulsion. It gives the wood a silky, soft shine.

Wax is an excellent alternative to varnish. Varnishes containing harmful chemicals continue to be the most used coating product wooden furniture. The chemicals that make up varnishes have a persistent odor that pollutes the air during interior spaces long after the varnish has dried. Using a mixture based on natural beeswax is completely environmentally friendly.

There are several recipes for polishing mixtures, where the main element is beeswax. Final product may be liquid, paste or solid depending on the proportions of the constituent ingredients. The proportions can be changed using a solvent: the more of it, the more liquid the mixture turns out.
One of the oldest traditional recipes is a mixture of wax and turpentine.
Traditional recipe
Ingredients:
1) Beeswax. You can purchase wax in a store, or it is better to do this from a beekeeper in your region, whom you can easily find in our groups on social networks.
2) Turpentine.
IN traditional mixture Equal parts of wax and turpentine are used, i.e. 1 to 1.
Crumble the wax

Then melt the wax either in a water bath

or in the microwave.

Be careful when using turpentine. Fire hazard! It is recommended to carry out everything in a well-ventilated area.

Slowly pour the turpentine into the hot wax, stirring constantly.

Pour over ready mixture into a container, such as a shoe polish can, and leave to cool.
Currently, it is increasingly recommended to replace turpentine with another solvent. Despite the fact that turpentine is obtained from trees, it is quite dangerous. chemical agent, causing eye and skin irritation, damage to the lungs and central nervous system when inhaled.

Instead of turpentine, you can use other solvents - various oils (jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, nut oil, citrus oil). Choose your oil depending on where you live and its availability.

Olive oil recipe:

The easiest way to make polishing wax involves using just 2 ingredients: olive oil and wax. The resulting mixture can be used to coat any type of wood. To prepare the mixture you need:

2 tablespoons wax
6-8 tablespoons olive oil

Crumble the wax.

Add 6-8 tablespoons of olive oil to the container

Melt the wax and oil in a water bath or in the microwave. After mixing the wax and oil, you can add additional various extracts. All that's left to do is pack it.

Recipe with Jojoba oil.

This mixture is perfect for polishing children's wooden toys In addition, it is absolutely safe even for the smallest children.

Beeswax (50 mg)
Jojoba oil (150 ml)
Additionally possible: extracts + vitamin E

Ratio of wax to jojoba oil 1:3

Crumble the wax. Melt it in a water bath and add oil.

As you can see in the photo, the wax can curl up when it cools, so it is important to stir the finished mixture until completely dissolved.

Depending on what consistency you want: more liquid or more solid, you can change the ratio of wax to oil. The more wax, the harder the mixture.
The mixture is ready for use when warm. Pack it in separate jars

or use right now.
The olive oil mixture can be stored for 1 year in a closed container in a cool place and out of reach sun rays. The mixture with Jojoba oil can be stored for up to 2 years. A warm mixture is best used for insulating purposes; a cold mixture is better for polishing wood.
Depending on the consistency, the polishing wax can be applied with a brush,

But more often this is done using fabric.

Wax restores the color of old products, removes abrasions, and gives new ones a darker and more saturated color. Below are examples of using polishing wax from the BEFORE and AFTER series