First aid for geraniums: what to do if the leaves turn yellow. Geranium diseases - we use simple ways to combat flower diseases Geranium is frozen, what to do



At this time, it is already necessary to prune geraniums. After all, geranium is light-loving, but in winter there is little light, and the plant stretches out and becomes not very beautiful.

In geraniums, you need to trim the bare shoots to the height you need (but not quite to the stump, of course), new branches will come from them.

Or you can renew geraniums every year by replanting them from new cuttings, as our great-grandmothers did in the old days.

For propagation of geraniums, apical cuttings approximately 7 cm long with 3-5 leaves are suitable.

We cut the cuttings, making an oblique cut under the bud, tear off the lower pair of leaves, dry the cut and the place where the leaves are broken for 2-3 hours, so that the cut is covered with a film, and plant immediately in prepared pots with soil, water lightly.

To form a lush bush, we pinch the apical bud. We put it in a bright place, but not in the sun!

Many people simply cut cuttings and put them in water; you can put tablets in a jar of water activated carbon so that there is no rotting.

Roots form very quickly. Then they are planted in pots.

You need to take a small pot. Geraniums don’t need a lot of soil. The faster the roots entwine a clod of earth, the faster the plant will bloom, and the smaller the pot, the more abundant the flowering will be.

In large pots, the plant may not bloom at all, it doesn’t need it - life is already good, why bother? You can even plant several cuttings in one pot.

During the rooting process, the lower leaves may turn yellow - tear them off when a couple of new leaves appear.

To form a beautiful lush bush, pinch the top on the 8-10th leaf, the side shoots on the 6-8th and constantly turn the pot so that the bush is even.

Geranium loves:

- sun (but tolerates light shade);

— warm (but will survive very light autumn frosts);

- not frequent, but abundant watering;

- good drainage in the pot;

- moderately fertile, even poor soil (otherwise there will be a lot of greenery, but few flowers);

regular feeding;

- removing faded inflorescences to continue flowering.

In June-July, if necessary, cuttings can be made.

A very good feeding is iodine water: dissolve 1 drop of iodine in 1 liter of water and pour 50 ml of this composition over the walls of the pot. Don't overdo it so you don't burn the roots!

After such watering, the geranium blooms continuously and gorgeously!

If the leaves turn yellow, the reasons may be as follows:

- if only the edges of the leaves dry out, the cause is lack of moisture;

- if the leaves are limp or rotting, the reason is excess moisture.

In both cases, leaves may fall off. Stem exposure lower leaves fall off - lack of light. In summer, geranium loves to live in the fresh air - take it out to the balcony or into the garden and plant it well in the ground.

At first, having experienced the stress associated with a change of place, the geranium will hurt, its leaves may turn yellow and fall off. But then she will delight you with abundant flowering.

On the street, the geranium blooms amazingly, and the bush grows strongly like never before.

In the sun, sometimes geranium leaves become pink- this is a normal phenomenon, like a “tanning”, the plant is no better or worse from this.

In autumn, when the weather is cool at 10-12 degrees, geraniums “go crazy” from this temperature!

You can keep geraniums outside until frost starts, until the temperature drops to +2-5. Then it will need to be trimmed, transplanted into pots and placed in a cool place (10-12 degrees) for winter hibernation or, gradually accustoming it to more high temperature, bring it into the room where it will continue to bloom.

WHAT IS PELARGONIA AFRAID OF?

There is an opinion that pelargonium never gets sick and is not afraid of pests. But there are still times when the plant begins to feel unwell. What could be the reason?

It happens that the leaves of pelargonium begin to turn yellow and fall off, after which the plant completely dies in a matter of days. To accurately determine the disease, you need to take a closer look at the symptoms.

Pelargonium diseases

1. Bacterial spot. A warm and humid microclimate causes the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris to appear on the plant. Because of them, pelargonium leaves turn brown and fall off, and black rot may appear on the stems.

How to avoid: Check whether the seedlings are infected. When planting, leave free space between plants. Water the pelargoniums in the morning, do not splash the water around. Examine leaves often and remove suspicious ones. If signs of disease appear, treat the plants with copper sulfate.


2. Black leg and/or black stem rot. This is usually a disease of cuttings, but sometimes signs of damage can also occur on adult specimens. First, the stem turns black at the base, and then the disease gradually “rises” upward.

How to avoid: Take cuttings only from healthy plants. Before pruning, do not water pelargonium for a couple of weeks. Before planting, spill boiling water with the addition of potassium permanganate on the soil. Infected cuttings can be saved if they are treated with a fungicide in time.

3. Gray rot . Spots appear not only on the leaves, but also on the petals. The gray mold fungus develops on pelargoniums that grow in too cold and damp areas. If at least one diseased specimen appears in the collection, it can soon infect all nearby plants.

How to avoid: Inspect your plants regularly. Keep the pots at some distance from each other so that good ventilation. Place pelargoniums on bright light, V dry room. If a gray-brown coating appears, treat the plants with a fungicide

Pelargonium is sick

4. Rust. Most often this disease affects zonal pelargoniums. At the same time, spots appear on the leaves: yellow on the upper part of the plates, brown on the bottom. Over time, the leaves become deformed and fall off. The fungus also attacks stems and petioles.

How to avoid: Check your flowers regularly. The disease can come to you with a sick “newbie” brought from the store. Treat new pelargoniums with a fungicide and keep them in quarantine for the first time.


Pelargonium pests

When growing pelargoniums in flower beds, there is a possibility that people will be interested in the plant cabbage caterpillars. They can be collected by hand or treated with 70% vinegar essence (1 tablespoon) diluted with 10 liters of water.

Colonies may settle on the underside of the leaf blade greenhouse whitefly. To get rid of this pest, just spray the pelargonium leaves with water: the larvae are washed off, and the butterflies get wet and die.

At this time, it is already necessary to prune geraniums. After all, geranium is light-loving, but in winter there is little light, and the plant stretches out and becomes not very beautiful.

In geraniums, you need to trim the bare shoots to the height you need (but not quite to the stump, of course), new branches will come from them.

Before considering what diseases can affect your loved one blooming geranium and how to deal with them, let's look at other reasons why plants begin to fade. For example, external signs such as the appearance brown spots on leaves or dropping flowers, may be associated with:

  • Too small a pot, which is why the plant’s root system simply does not develop.
  • Lack or absence of drainage in the container.
  • Drafts or lack of sunlight.
  • Excess moisture during watering.
  • Frequent application nitrogen fertilizers, as a result of which green mass quickly develops to the detriment of flowering.
  • Deficiency of phosphorus or potassium in the soil.

Wilting geranium

To eliminate these factors, you just need to reconsider, putting watering and fertilizing in order. But coping with diseases and their consequences is quite difficult. Let's take a closer look at how diseases can “attack” indoor geraniums and what methods against them are considered the most effective.

A frequent “guest” of geraniums is the Botrytis mushroom, which can appear at any time of the year and infects flowers. of different ages. Most often, this fungus appears as a result of excessive watering or due to too humid air. Its main feature is the dark fluff that appears on the leaves or stem. At first the spots are small, after a couple of days they begin to grow, which can lead to complete infection of the flowers.

TO preventive measures This includes cleaning the soil in the pot from weeds, removing all wilted flowers, and proper watering - water should not stagnate in the ground. And during watering, make sure that water does not get on the leaves and flower buds. It happens that the mushroom appears as a result of too dense plantings, when individual flowers do not have enough ventilation. That is why, when planting geraniums, keep in mind that the distance between plants should be about 10 cm. If you notice sprouts affected by the fungus, remove them and treat the flowers themselves with fungicidal agents.

Removing faded geranium flowers

Another well-known fungal disease is root rot, which most often appears due to severe stagnation of water in the soil.

From the roots, rot spreads to the stem and leaves, the plant turns brown, the roots are usually covered with a gray coating, which is somewhat reminiscent of a cobweb. If you don’t know how to deal with this disease, the plant will rot very quickly. The first thing to do is improve the drainage in the container. It is also worth replacing the soil mixture with a new one, looser and more breathable, which will avoid stagnation of water. While fighting the disease, you should stop using nitrogen-containing fertilizers. It is also worth removing all affected parts of the flower and treating it suitable means.

Unlike fungal diseases, bacterial diseases caused by various pathogenic bacteria. Usually on affected flowers appear brown spots, which at the very beginning of the disease are small in size and located on back side leaves. Another characteristic feature– black veins of leaves and their drying.

Bacterial disease of pelargonium

If the disease becomes systemic (appearing and then disappearing), the plant becomes very weak and lethargic, the branches gradually die, the stem turns black, and the flower eventually dries out. Prevention is simple: provide good drainage, monitor watering, use soil for planting that allows air and water to pass through well. Sick plants also need to be watered with fungicides. But if the stage is too thick, when there are no treatment options, the geranium will have to be burned so as not to infect the rest of the plants.

Thus, the most famous disease caused by “bacteria” is rust, when red spots form on the leaves, in the middle of which there are spores. If you don't know how to deal with the disease, it will very quickly consume your favorite flowers and destroy them. To the most effective remedy anti-rust copper sulfate– prepare a solution, tear off all infected leaves and water the plant with the prepared mixture. To consolidate the result, repeat the treatment after a week.

Indoor geranium, like any other plant, has quite a few enemies. For example, these are aphids, caterpillars, ants, whiteflies. We will tell you about the most proven methods of pest control:

  • Aspirin, which can be used to combat almost all pests. Just dilute one tablet in 1 liter of water and treat the flowers three times a week until you kill all the pests.
  • Marathon counts good remedy against whiteflies and aphids. This drug is convenient because it does not need to be diluted in water, and its duration of action is almost three months. Just sprinkle with granules Marathon pots of flowers and water.
  • In the fight against a pest such as a caterpillar, you need to use a product Monterey. Simply spray the flowers and buds with a liquid solution, preparing it according to the instructions. To increase effectiveness, repeat treatment every other week.

Spraying flowers with Monterey liquid solution

And to make geranium more resistant to pests, diseases and their consequences in the form of poor growth and lack of flowering, be sure to use the product for preventive purposes Messenger. This drug helps increase the immunity of flowers. Just dilute the product according to the instructions and water the soil. By the way, this drug will also help you with.

Why geranium stopped blooming - find out and fix it

Geranium is very responsive to good care and, with the right actions, gardeners will delight with their bright flowering. But even with proper care geraniums sometimes stop blooming. What to do in this case? The beginning of long flowering in this plant is due to proper maintenance in winter time year. In winter, this plant prefers cool conditions and minimal watering. The cooler it was in the winter, the longer the geranium will bloom in the summer.

In April, the flower should be transplanted into new pot and feed using potash fertilizers. To stimulate the development of new buds and further flowering, be sure to remove all faded inflorescences. One more thing important condition– high-quality lighting. In summer, it is advisable to place the pot of geranium in a lighted place, but at the same time so that direct sunlight does not fall on the plant - this will lead to burns. In winter, geraniums need to be created artificial lighting for 4-5 hours every day. In spring you should also trim the flower, leaving 2-3 of the most powerful shoots.

Other reasons why your indoor flowers suddenly stopped blooming:

  • The pot is too large, as a result of which the geranium develops its roots and does not have time to bloom.
  • Too little watering can also result in geraniums not blooming.

So that your plant does not get sick, has a beautiful, lush appearance, it is important to know and strictly apply the basic conditions for caring for it:

  1. Geranium loves bright lighting, about 3 hours a day it should be in direct sunlight, but no more.
  2. During the warm season, it is necessary to maintain the room temperature no more than +25°C. During the cold season, the plant is dormant. Optimal temperature for him during this period + 10-15°С.

    If there is no necessary place for wintering, the flower can be located room temperature, but with additional lighting.

  3. When it’s summer and hot outside, you should water the flower every day, not allowing the soil to dry out. In winter - up to 3 times a month.

    Attention. Do not water the plant with cold water.

  4. IN high humidity the plant does not need. Spraying is not necessary.
  5. Every year the flower requires replanting. The process is best carried out in mid-March.

Indoor flowers begin to fade if there is a certain discomfort or lacking any nutrients.

The reasons for this are varied:

What to do and how to save the plant?

If this happens, and your favorite flower begins to wither and the leaves fade, this is a signal to take action.

The sooner you find out the cause, the sooner the plant will recover.

  • You need to check whether the pot is well suited for geraniums, whether there is enough space, whether the roots do not stick out, and whether it has drainage. If in doubt, you should transplant the plant into a container. larger size. Don’t forget to use a special primer.
  • Try moving the flower to a window where there is more sunlight. If direct rays hit it, temporary darkening will be necessary.
  • It is important not to flood the plant. The water should not stand in the pot. If this happens, you need to drain excess liquid. When the soil is abundantly wet, rotting processes develop, it is important to prevent this.
  • Geranium does not tolerate temperature changes well. You can't put it close heating devices. In winter, the flower is removed from the window sills so that cold air does not reach it. It is advisable to avoid drafts. The plant does not tolerate even slight frosts, but loves fresh air. If, in your opinion, this is the reason, move the geranium to a place that is comfortable for it.
  • Do not allow the soil in the pot to dry out. Especially in summer, the plant must be watered abundantly. If after watering the leaves do not restore their shape, then the reason for the wilting is different.
  • When fertilizing geraniums, you must strictly follow the instructions on the packaging. After all, increasing the dosage can have a detrimental effect on the flower. There is no need to fertilize in winter.

How to prevent the problem?

For that to prevent the appearance withered leaves, all negative factors should be eliminated, re-read the basic rules for caring for geraniums, set up an orderly schedule for watering and feeding the plant. After all, coping with diseases and their consequences is not always easy. It's better not to let this happen.

When it is correct to follow the above instructions and devote more time to your favorite indoor plant, then the geranium will delight you for a long time with lush, juicy foliage and bright colors. And the aroma will calm her down and set everyone in the household positive.

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It died in my pot indoor geranium, which I transplanted from the garden in late autumn and brought home. First question: why could my geranium die? I poured fresh, purchased soil into the pot and watered it well. And second: can I use the soil from this pot to plant other flowers or grow seedlings?

N.G. Krupinina, pensioner

Pelargonium, or indoor geranium, is a fairly unpretentious plant, if we talk about “ordinary” varieties. But replanting from the garden, especially in late autumn, is very stressful for any plant. Wet, cool earth is ideal conditions for the development of fungal diseases. The roots could rot from them. Without the use of fungicides, such a plant cannot be saved. Sometimes medications don't help either. You have to re-grow geraniums from cuttings, cutting them off from a healthy part of the plant.

In addition, “purchased” land is not always available good quality. It may look black, crumbly, airy, but this does not mean that it is free from pathogens. Unscrupulous producers can package “waste” soil from industrial greenhouses, and there are always plenty of different diseases there.

In addition, the soil from greenhouses is often oversaturated with salts from the application mineral fertilizers and repeated treatments with plant protection products. In such a land even the most unpretentious plants may get sick.

Signs of root rot are wilting of leaves even in moist soil. Later - darkening of the lower part of the stem, almost complete absence of roots, and if they are preserved, they also have a black color and a soft structure.

It is better not to reuse the soil from under such plants. But if you feel sorry for the purchased land, you can steam it in the oven or microwave.

There is quite a lot of soil in a large pot. You need to pour it in a thin layer on a baking sheet or in a bowl, and for processing in the microwave, divide it into 2 parts and pour into a large bowl.

The soil should be slightly moist, since steaming comes from the word “steam.” Place the microwave for 5-7 minutes. If necessary, repeat the procedure. The soil should be very hot to the touch and steam should be coming from it. A characteristic smell will also appear.

However, you need to take into account that flowers grow poorly in steamed soil. It kills all microorganisms that produce humus, that is, food available to plants.

After steaming any soil, it is advisable to soak it with some biologically active preparation - Baikal, Empact, Siyanie (according to the instructions). Then let it sit for a couple of weeks to allow microbial life to revive in the soil.

The pot must be washed thoroughly (with detergent) and dry. Only after this can you use it again.

A home healer on the windowsill - fragrant geranium. She is absolutely unpretentious in her care and has no whims when choosing a place to live. An adequate young lady, what can I say. But search engines often ask why geranium leaves turn yellow and dry out. What to do?

Some flower growers believe that if a flower is described as unpretentious, it means it grows on its own. If they remember, they take care of him, if they don’t remember, maybe he’ll survive somehow. But after all indoor plant requires at least minimal care. And geranium is no exception.

Let's look at the reasons for yellowing and drying of geranium foliage.

Lack of light

Signs. The lower leaves gradually turn yellow and dry out, the stem becomes elongated, and the geranium blooms very rarely and little.

Solution. Change your young lady's place of residence. Place it closer to the light or hang it completely additional lighting phytolamps. Do not touch the leaves themselves. You can pinch the crown so that the geranium grows wider. Otherwise, only a bare stem and a bunch of leaves at the top will remain.

If you already have such a “miracle”, then the best option There will be cuttings and rooting. Because new leaves will no longer grow on the stem.

Sunburn

Signs. The leaf blades turn yellow and then turn white throughout the entire plant. Then they dry out.

Solution. Geranium is of course light-loving and can easily tolerate direct exposure. sun rays. But there is a limit to everything. For example, in recent years summer middle zone brings incredible surprises. On the windowsill the temperature can be well over +40°C. Even a cactus will wither here, let alone a geranium.

Be sure to shade the bush for the summer with white paper or a curtain made of cotton fabric. If the window design does not allow it, then simply move the pot from the windowsill to a table or bedside table near the window. There will be enough light, but there will be no burn.

Excess moisture

Signs. The leaves turn yellow at the tops of the shoots, then become limp and watery. The last stage is the rotting of the stem and drying of the leaves.

Solution. Stop creating a swamp in your geranium pot. Check the drainage holes for debris and overgrown roots. If this problem persists, then carefully remove the holes. Or better yet, transplant the plant into another pot.

Water your pet correctly. Since geraniums are often placed on a sunny window, the top layer of soil dries out quite quickly, forming a crust. But it's still quite humid down there. Many people are too lazy to dig up the soil before the next watering and see what is happening below the crust level. And the geranium is watered again.

Get into the habit of sticking a wooden skewer or sushi stick all the way to the bottom of the pot for 12-14 minutes. Then take it out and look. Unpainted wood will clearly show the moisture level in the ground.

And one more thing. Geranium does not have a strict regular drinking schedule. Water is given to the plant only when the soil in the pot is almost completely dry.

Lack of water

Signs. The leaves of geranium have a dry yellow border of a dark, almost brown hue. Pigmentation is noticeable throughout the plant.

Solution. Watering is discussed above. You should not rush from one extreme to another and completely dry out the earthen lump. Geranium too living plant, loves to eat and drink. Especially in summer and in the heat.

Don't have time to water your flower often? Place him in more reliable hands. Or change the geranium’s place of residence, where the temperature is lower. This way, the moisture from the pot will evaporate more slowly, and the roots will not absorb it at the speed of the pump.

By the way, if possible, then in the summer you can not torment the beauty with a hot window sill, but transplant her directly into open ground. Just not in direct sun. Preferably where you most often run with a watering can or watering hose. In autumn you won’t recognize your geranium. Instead of a stunted stick with yellowing, drying leaves, a beautiful powerful bush with juicy green burdocks will grow.

Just don’t plant it in the far corner of the garden or plot. You'll definitely forget.

Low temperature content

Signs. The border on all leaves is red at first, then turns yellow and dries.

Solution. The normal temperature range for keeping geranium is from +15 to +24°C. A lower thermometer reading is completely uncomfortable for the plant. The cold season is especially rich in unpleasant surprises. Hot, dry air comes from the heating radiators, and cold and damp air blows from the window. So it’s no wonder that geraniums get sick.

Move the pot to a more comfortable place with an acceptable temperature and normal air humidity. If this is not possible, then do the following:

  1. Cover the radiators under the window with a thick towel or blanket. Better wet. This eliminates excessive dry air.
  2. Cold glass is fenced off from the pot with a plate of polystyrene foam or a strip of foam insulation. Even a piece of cork coaster or a piece of thick woolen fabric will do.
  3. The same materials are placed under the pot to insulate the root system.
  4. Place the geranium on the windowsill so that the shoots and leaves do not touch the glass.

As you can see, the procedures are not that complicated, but the benefits from them are enormous. Thanks to these actions, the temperature of keeping geraniums on the windowsill in winter is equalized. It is close to the room and does not fluctuate from drafts from the window. The leaves will stop turning yellow and drying out.

Fungal diseases

Signs. First, yellow spots appear on the leaves. Over time, they grow over the entire surface. Sometimes a gray or whitish coating of mold may appear. Then the leaf blades dry out. The fungus affects the entire plant.

Solution. When the disease has just begun, treatment should be started immediately. Otherwise, it will be impossible to save the geranium later. Spray with any suitable systemic fungicide. Strictly according to the instructions and without increasing the dosage.

Young plant small size you can simply dip the whole thing into the medicinal solution. Adult big bush, most likely, it will not be possible to atone. But it is necessary to spray thoroughly, until all leaf plates from the outer and inside. Because the fibers trap microdrops of the solution and prevent it from working directly with the green mass.

If time has already passed and the plant is completely affected (the fungus has spread to the stem), then fungicides will no longer help. Can you find shoots that are not heavily infected? Cut them off with a sterile knife or blade. Then try to root it. Couldn't find at least one healthy twig? You'll have to say goodbye to geraniums.

By the way, the soil from under it also needs to be thrown out. Before the next use, the pot must be disinfected with boiling water or a hot, strong solution of potassium permanganate.

Pests

Signs. Small yellow dots appear on the leaves. Uninvited guests are always clearly visible from the underside of the burlap trees. Sometimes there are cobwebs or a sticky coating on the shoots. Then the dots grow into spots and the leaves dry out. Absolutely any part of the plant can be damaged.

Solution. Found enemies? Get rid of them immediately! Not only do they suck out all the nutritional juices and vitality from the geranium, but pests also often carry pathogenic bacteria and spores of pathogenic fungi.

There are recommendations to use a solution of laundry or potassium soap to wash the leaves. You can try it. This method works well with nasty guests. The difficulty of using it is that the fluff on the geranium prevents the soap solution from thoroughly washing the leaves.

It is much more convenient in this regard to any systemic insecticide complex action. Even if you fail to properly wet the leaves with the solution, some part will remain on the fibers and will certainly fall on insects.

Closeness

Signs. The leaves turn yellow evenly throughout the entire plant, first from the edges, then as a whole. They gradually dry out and remain bare trunk. There is no flowering and is not expected. From drainage hole roots are visible.

Solution. The reason is banal: the geranium’s pot has become too small. This plant is quite tolerant of small containers. Requires transplantation every 3-4 years. But sometimes, when good care and high-quality feeding, the flower grows too quickly. This is especially true for young plants.

Just transplant the geranium into a larger home. Just not by much. Otherwise, you won’t see flowers in the next 2 years. The plant will begin to grow vigorously root system to the detriment of foliage and buds. It is very important not to feed it for 3 months after transplantation. This is a time of acclimatization and habituation.

By the way, if you notice thickenings, tubercles or knots on the roots, then we sympathize with you. Geranium is affected by root nematode. This can also cause yellowing and drying of the leaves. Unfortunately, this problem cannot be cured. You will have to throw away the entire plant along with the soil and pot.

Even prolonged soaking of the container in bleach or boiling does not give 100% results in getting rid of the larvae and the worms themselves.

After discovering such nasty things, you will have to inspect all neighboring plants. Often they also have to be disposed of. Do not buy plants at spontaneous markets and avoid a similar fate.

Those who truly love home flowers will never worry about why geranium leaves turn yellow and dry. What to do? - they also know very well. This article will help everyone else, including beginners.

Video: how to care for geraniums



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