Propagation of lilac cuttings. Learning to propagate varietal lilacs with cuttings How to propagate varietal lilacs

Some flowering shrubs have always been distinguished by the special attitude of gardeners who, by any means, sought to breed them in their garden. The article describes how to propagate lilacs using cuttings, root shoots, as well as layering at home in spring and in autumn period. Colorful photos and thematic video will complement the material.

popular garden plant

Under common name described about 30 species of shrubs that grow wild in Asia, as well as in the south and east of Europe. Many of them have long been grown in gardens, but the most widespread are varietal plants that differ in the shape and color of flowers - more than 1500 of them are now known.

The shrub looks like this:

The average height of an adult plant is from 1.5 to 3 m. Branched shoots grow upwards.
Leaves are opposite to each other. Most varieties are whole. Less common pinnately dissected. Leaves fall in winter.
Flowers are collected in inflorescences-panicles. Most often they are painted in lilac (lilac) color of various shades.
The fruit is a box with two wings.

The most common of the species is the common lilac. This shrub is very hardy, thanks to which it is able to feel good in both southern and northern regions. After planting, lilac practically does not need care, so it is actively used in landscaping cities and towns.
It is absolutely easy to propagate the bush you like on your own. They do this in several ways:

by rooting cuttings;
planting overgrowth;
with the help of withdrawals.

All methods are quite productive and are performed without much difficulty.

Advice. If the lilac needs to be transplanted, it is better to do this 2 weeks after the end of flowering. This period has been proven experimentally.

How to propagate shrub cuttings

Green cuttings are considered the best way. The areas of shoots taken from young (up to 6 years old) plants take root well. The optimal time for the procedure is the flowering period.

The procedure itself is carried out as follows:

In the early morning, with the help of an budding knife or a dangerous razor, green shoots of 3-4 orders are cut off. And you need to choose them in the middle of the bush. Zero, as well as fattening shoots, should not be taken: they do not take root.

Cut cuttings. Each of them must have at least 2 pairs of kidneys.
The lower leaves are cut off completely, and the upper ones in half. This is done to reduce water evaporation.

Advice. You can cut the leaf plate right on the bush, a day before harvesting the cuttings. In this case, the cut will have time to drag on before the shoot is planted in the cutting, which will preserve the leaf turgor and reduce the evaporation of moisture.

Prepared cuttings are placed for a day in a solution of root formation stimulants.
Planted in pre-prepared containers filled with a substrate, which is used as a mixture river sand and peat. Plots of shoots are immersed in the soil by 1.5-2 cm.
A polyethylene greenhouse is arranged on top of the container with cuttings. If the pot is small and there are 1-2 cuttings in it, then you can cover the planting with a cut plastic bottle.
Caring for the cuttings comes down to maintaining a constant temperature (22-24°C) and humidity (80-90%).

The roots on the lilac cuttings appear after a month. After that, you need to accustom the plants to fresh air by regularly opening the cuticle.
You can plant young lilacs in the garden in the fall, but it is better to grow them in a pot until spring.
When propagated by cuttings, the shrub will begin to bloom in 4-5 years.

Attention! Not all varieties are successfully propagated by the above method. Some have very low rooting. Such varieties can be propagated by grafting on a specially grown rootstock. common lilac.

Reproduction by shoots and layering

It is allowed to separate the shoots from the mother bush twice a season: at the end of spring and at the beginning of autumn.

In the first case, shoots with a height of 5-7 cm are carefully separated along with the roots and planted in the garden under plastic or glass bottles. Shelter is removed after 2 weeks, after which they try to shade the plants at lunchtime.
The shoots that are separated in early September are already completely woody and have a well-developed root system. Therefore, immediately after separation, they are planted on permanent place. Shelter is not required. For winter, plantings should be sprinkled with leaves.

Attention! Lilac does not give root shoots. The shoots that grow around the bush are germinated dormant buds located above the root neck of the plant.

All varieties remarkably reproduce by layering, which is obtained after hilling the young shoots of own-rooted bushes. Do it like this:

In autumn, the mother bush is cut off at the root.
In the spring, after the shoots have grown a little, they are pulled over with copper wire at the base or annular cuts are made there. Such techniques stimulate the formation of roots.

Treated shoots spud on half the growth.
Over the summer, roots grow in places of constrictions or incisions. At the beginning of autumn, hilling is raked and young plants ready for planting are cut with pruners.

There is another, the so-called "Chinese" method of diverting shoots. Lilacs that have reached the age of 3-4 years are cut off in the fall, leaving a stump with 2 pairs of buds. In the spring, new shoots are pruned at the same level. So do until the growth of 8 pcs. shoots. In early spring, they are laid out in grooves around the bush, pinned and sprinkled with soil. In autumn, already full-fledged plants are separated with secateurs and planted in the garden.

Reproduction of the beautiful lilac is a simple matter and accessible to everyone. Adhering to the basic rules, you can grow a single fragrant bush without any special skills.

Shrub breeding methods: video

Lilac care in autumn: pruning, top dressing, preparation for winter, how to fertilize, propagation by cuttings

Lilac cuttings are one of the most common ways to propagate a bush. Nonetheless, It requires compliance with several rules at once:

First of all, it must be taken into account that the rooting period of the cutting is quite long - at least 5 weeks. Therefore, selection occurs at the end of flowering or immediately after it. Lignified and even semi-lignified cuttings will not work - they do not take root. Therefore, you need to take only green layers, and it is from young branches. It is better to cut branches with 2-3 nodes. The best option- those layers that extend from the middle parts of the main branch. All leaves are removed from the lower node. Then a cut is made at an acute angle. It should come as close as possible to the place where the leaves were cut. At the same time, it is not worth cutting along the knot itself - such cuttings do not take root. All other leaves must be cut exactly in half. The upper knot is completely cut off along with the leaves - a regular cut is made perpendicular to the cutting. Next, the cuttings should be immediately placed in a solution of a root formation stimulator and left overnight. Then the shoot is completely washed under running water and landed in a semi-shaded place - either in a greenhouse or on ordinary soil, but in this case, the cuttings should be covered with 5-liter cut bottles. For the landing hole, a mixture of sand and peat is selected, taken in equal mass quantities. A hole is dug into the depth of no more than 20 cm. A cutting is planted, covered with a mixture. A 5-centimeter layer of sand is poured over the top. The hole is treated with a solution of any fungicide and watered thoroughly after a few hours. Further, the entire stalk is closed with polyethylene (or you can close each shoot with a bottle). Subsequently, you need to ensure that the sand always remains saturated with moisture, and also spray the shoots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate once every 7 days. It is also necessary to constantly ventilate the stalk, and it can be completely opened after 6 weeks - then almost all shoots should form roots.

How lilac breeds (video)

NOTE

Cuttings can be left for the winter, but if they have taken root by the beginning of autumn, they should be transplanted to a separate bed for growing. Compost or humus is added to the soil. If the soil is acidic, it is better to add ash or dolomite flour at the rate of 200-300 g per 1 m2. You can transplant to the main place in the spring.

Thus, the lilac needs basic care at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn. If you make some effort this season, the bush will delight with its fragrant, beautiful flowers all next summer.

How to propagate shrubs with cuttings

Watering

In order for as many cuttings to take root as possible, you need to water often a little, so that the earth is always wet, but do not flood! A greenhouse in this case is ideal, especially for hard-to-root plants. It can create high humidity, which helps to form roots easier and faster. When the first shoots and leaves appear on the branches, this means that they successfully grow roots. Most likely, not all branches will please you good growth(some of it will dry out). During this period, watering is reduced, watered only to prevent the soil from drying out.

Summer cuttings

If you did not have time to prepare the cuttings early in the spring or in the summer you saw some kind of interesting variety, you can try rooting a few branches. To do this, you need to carefully cut off the leaves and flower brushes from them, cut the cuttings, immediately split the tips of the branches stronger - “swirl” and put them in water for a couple of days with the addition of “root”. Then we do everything as with ordinary cuttings (we tirelessly monitor the humidity!). In this case, it is even more difficult to achieve the growth of cuttings, but it is possible. It all depends on your desire and perseverance.

In autumn, bushes grow from our cuttings. We choose the best of them and transplant them to a permanent place. Weak and fragile leaves for the second year for growing.

Video about propagation of shrubs by cuttings

Propagation of lilacs by cuttings step-by-step master class with a photo

Reproduction of lilac cuttings: step by step master class with photo

Lilac ornamental varieties propagated by shoots, layering, grafting and cuttings. To plant a lilac, you need to have some skills, and it is convenient to propagate a bush that is already growing in the country with shoots and layering. If you want to bring a plant from another place, it is best to resort to cuttings. Using this method, you can root lilacs even from a bouquet. Provided that it was cut no later than one day ago.

In addition, keep in mind that lilac is a difficult-to-root plant. Therefore, for successful reproduction, it is important to observe certain Terms:

Do not miss the right time for harvesting cuttings.

Use suitable cuttings.

Withstand temperature and humidity

Optimum temperature

Reproduction of varietal lilac

Not all methods transmit the genetic code in the same way. Therefore, for the reproduction of varietal bushes, a limited number of them are used.

Can be propagated:

vaccination; root growth; layering; green (not lignified) cuttings; merisystem way.

Cannot reproduce:

seeds.

Comparison of breeding methods for varietal lilacs

For each, there are positives and negatives.

Own-rooted lilac is healthier - it has high winter hardiness, large growth, shoots inherit signs. A significant drawback is that the flowering time comes three or even four years later than the grafted one.

The grafted syringa blooms earlier. It can be formed from clearstem tree. Reception is common in modern landscape design. Alas, she lives much less than her own root. More stable is considered to be grafting on a wild one. With proper care, a shrub with other rootstocks can become a long-liver.

Lilac, grown merisystemically, is also rooted. It conveys the characteristics of the variety better, suffers less from viral and other diseases, and more easily tolerates complex climatic conditions. A seedling obtained by the merisystem method gives a small increase in the first years. Blooms no earlier than the fifth year.

Methodology

Easiest to seat root growth. It is a little more difficult and longer to make layering. The most popular way is green cuttings, which is not suitable for all varieties. The grafting process is difficult for the gardener and requires good skill and experience. A special tool must also be available. It is impossible to propagate lilac merisystemically outside the laboratory conditions.

Now more about how to propagate lilacs.

Grafting

All varieties are propagated by grafting. The rootstock for grafting are wild seedlings, privet, Hungarian lilac.

In grafted plants, shoots in trunk circle and near the root collar it is unsorted, wild, so it is completely removed with pruners - “on the ring”.

For scion, take annual twigs of syringa. They are prepared in advance and stored until grafting in a damp, cold and dark place.

There are such ways:

budding; copulation; grafting into the side cut; split grafting; for the bark.

Root growth

The separation of the root shoots is best done in the fall. The desired specimen is cut off from the main root with the maximum preservation of its own fibrous root system. In the future, planting and caring for the separated plant is carried out as for ordinary seedlings.

layering

For propagation of varieties by layering, own-rooted uterine bushes are mainly used. The process takes several years.

1-2 year. To prepare for winter in the first and second year, the shrub intended for propagation by layering is cut to the very root collar.

3 years old By autumn, many young shoots will appear on the bush.

4 year. In the spring, the grown annual shoots are bent to the ground, fixed with hooks driven into the ground and sprinkled with soil. Throughout the season, you need to ensure that the soil near the layers is sufficiently moist. In the autumn of the fourth year, rooted layers are separated from the branches of the mother bush.

Less commonly, grafted lilacs are transferred to their own roots by layering if the vaccine is not very high above the ground. The plant is planted obliquely. In the spring, shoots that are higher than the graft are attracted to the ground. Use special wire and pins. The plant is spudded throughout the growing season and watered. In autumn, roots will appear above the constriction, and the layers can be cut off from the bush.

With this method, you can get the largest number seedlings from a single shrub in a short time.

Propagation of lilac cuttings in spring

This method can propagate some varieties in one season. The process includes the following steps:

vegetative propagation

open ground

Let's take a closer look at the main points.

How to choose shoots for cuttings and prepare for cutting

The older the bush-mother liquor, the worse the rooting occurs. The plant should be at least 4-5 years old, but not older than 10-15.

Large green shoots, they are also called fat, practically do not take root. Vertical strong - also not very suitable. Best Ability to the formation of roots in medium-sized green branches growing sideways.

To increase the rooting of cuttings, gardeners use various tricks. In particular, "etiolation" is used. 3 weeks before grafting, dark-colored insulating tape is wrapped around young shoots that are not very tight from below under the internode. In essence, etiolation is the isolation of part of the branch from light. After some time, the areas of the bark under the insulation will become whitish, this is where the cut should be made, and after about 10 weeks, roots will develop in this place.

Pruning time is evening, morning is possible if the day promises to be cloudy. Then the branch will spend less moisture on its most difficult first day.

Rules for cutting green cuttings

Cuttings are carried out during the flowering period or immediately after it. Selected shoots are cut with a clean, sharp knife. The top of the shoot is cut off, two or three internodes are counted, and the lower part is cut off. Important! The bottom cut should be oblique and pass immediately under the third knot, but without touching it.

On the shoots, all leaves are cut to half and packed in a film in thin layers until planting. You don't need to put it in water.

Pre-planting treatment

Twigs take root very hard. Therefore, before planting, they must be treated with root formation stimulants (indolylbutyric acid, heteroauxin, zircon). The preparations are diluted with water or alcohol according to the instructions. If alcohol dilution was used, the shoots are dipped into the solution for 5 seconds and planted in the ground; if water dilution is used, they are kept up to 18 hours, dipped to a depth of 1 cm.

Soil preparation

Most often rooted in sand or a mixture of sand and perlite. But in order to achieve the highest percentage of rooting, it is better to use the following composition: part of large perlite, part of high-moor peat, two parts of low-lying peat.

Drainage layer of washed sand and expanded clay - 15 cm, then 20 leaf humus or rotted manure, and on top from five to eight centimeters of rooting mixture.

Landing

The finished soil is compacted and watered. The cuttings are deepened, immersing the first internode into the ground completely. It is under it that the system of fibrous roots will develop. Between the rows we leave a distance of 10 cm, and between the shoots - 5 cm. Water again.

The temperature should not be very high. If it is hot outside, the greenhouse is shaded and ventilated.

The most important condition for good survival is high humidity, ideally 100%. For rooting in industrial scale in greenhouses, a special fogging machine is installed.

The first roots may appear no earlier than in a month and a half.

Remember to periodically remove fallen or spoiled leaves to prevent fungal infections.

You can talk about the percentage of rooting only in the fall. Then they can be seated for growing in the garden-school. Do not forget to cover the resulting seedlings for the winter to prevent the still tender shoots from freezing. If in doubt, it is better to transplant rooted cuttings next spring, as usual, before the start of sap flow.

Merisystem method

Modern science allows you to get plants by growing tissues in the laboratory - this is a "merisystem" method of reproduction.
The technique consists in growing cells of a varietal shoot on a nutrient medium. Plants obtained by this vegetative method acquire all parental characteristics.

Reproduction of lilac cuttings, layering and seeds

With the advent of spring, another cycle in the development of plants begins, many of which bloom, filling the air with a wonderful aroma and pleasing the eye with a riot of colors. The month of May is the apogee in the extravaganza of spring: it is at this time that lilacs bloom, declaring that spring has fully come into its own, and prophesying with its flowering about the imminent onset of summer.

Parks, squares and other places of public recreation at this time are in power blooming lilac, because it is capable of transforming even the most dull landscape beyond recognition. This is why culture is highly valued by landscape designers.

Every year the need for high-quality lilac planting material increases. Its wild varieties are quite decorative, but their magnificence cannot be compared with the charm of varietal lilac, the color palette of which is diverse.

Seed propagation of lilac

Varietal lilac breeds mainly vegetative ways, of which the methods of layering and green cuttings are most widely used. No less common is the method of vaccination garden forms on rootstocks of common lilac or privet (less commonly used). For this purpose, it is necessary to grow a rootstock from seeds.

They start harvesting seeds in late August - early September in order to have a supply for stratification within one and a half to two months. Stratified seeds are sown to a depth of 2 cm, after which the crops are mulched with humus. The rate of consumption of seeds per 1 running. meter - 2 grams (this amount is enough to get more than 200 seedlings).

After 2 years of cultivation, the seedlings are suitable for grafting by budding.

Growing lilacs from cuttings

Grafted lilac has the advantage of adapting to growing conditions, but also has a significant disadvantage - the need for regular removal of root shoots. In terms of labor costs for maintenance, growing own-rooted lilacs is more attractive, in addition, life cycle of such plants is longer (up to 25 years or more).

Reproduction of lilacs from layering is considered the most promising method, since it ensures the production of conditioned planting material in one year. Important condition- the mother plant must be own-rooted, that is, not grafted.

vaccinated varietal lilac can also be "translated to one's own roots". To do this, it is necessary to plant the plant obliquely, make the constriction of the stem of the young shoot above the grafting site (copper wire can be used), and then spud the plant to a height of up to 30 cm. During the summer, the plants will need to spud several more times. By autumn, roots should form above the constriction, after which the layer is cut off from the mother plant. For a season, up to 100 seedlings can be obtained from one bush using this method.

Reproduction by horizontal layering is somewhat different from the vertical (“Dahlem method”), but there is much in common between them, namely, the obligatory constriction at the base (!). Shoots are placed in prepared grooves and covered with soil. As the vertical shoots grow, they are spud several times. In autumn, up to 10 seedlings are obtained from each shoot.

Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings

"Green cuttings" is considered the most time-consuming method, since successful rooting requires a number of preparatory operations, as well as strictly observing the temperature and humidity regime. In addition, rooted cuttings require mandatory rearing before planting in a permanent place.

Propagation by green cuttings has advantages in terms of efficiency (multiplication rate), so this technique is mainly used in industrial cultivation lilacs. If desired, every gardener can successfully master the technique of rooting green cuttings.

It is advisable to start harvesting cuttings during the period of mass flowering of lilacs (at the beginning), when the bark begins to harden. The cutting is carried out in such a way that there are 2 buds (1 internode) on the handle. The lower cut is half a centimeter away from the kidney, the upper one is 1 cm above the kidney. bottom sheet shortened by 1/3, and the top is cut in half. Planted cuttings to a depth of 1 cm.

Pre-planting treatment of lilac cuttings in solutions of growth regulators stimulates the development of the root system. For this purpose, indolylbutyric acid (50 - 100 mg / l) and heteroauxin (150 - 200 mg / l) are most often used. Exposure time - 12 - 16 hours; immersion depth - 1 cm.

Rooting at home can be carried out using micro-greenhouses (closable containers with a lid made of translucent material). Stacked in a container nutrient soil(10 cm) and coarse sand (3 cm).

The optimum temperature for rooting is 25 - 28 ° C, relative humidity in the range of 80 - 90%. To maintain moisture, lilac cuttings are sprayed daily with water from a spray bottle.

Root formation begins in a month, and in the fall, the cuttings are transplanted into open ground for growing, taking care of providing protection from freezing.

autumn next year get well-developed seedlings.

What if you saw a chic lilac bush at a dacha neighbor, and you want the same, but don’t know where to buy planting material?

You can ask her for a few shoots and master the propagation of lilacs by cuttings, which is nothing complicated. Learn how it reproduces flowering plant with the help of shoots cut in late spring or summer, how to plant and root them.

You can get lilac bushes by cuttings even from a bouquet collected the day before. The main thing is that it should be cut no earlier than a day before planting, and the branches should not be overgrown with bark.

Before planting and rooting a cutting or several, we prepare green shoots:

We cut them in the early morning from the middle of the upper part of the bush, which has not reached the age of six, and from the middle of the shoots. The length of the cutting should be about 15 cm, two to three buds should be present on it.

If the shoot comes from a thick bough, it is not suitable for rooting and getting a new bush.

The temperature of the solution should be at least 18 degrees Celsius. The cuttings aged in the growth stimulator are rinsed with running water before planting.

Soil preparation for planting

Lilac shoots should be planted in specially prepared soil:

We prepare the soil mixture by mixing peat (a couple of parts) and coarse-grained perlite (one part). Soil cannot be mixed with ordinary sand.
In a closed container, we pour a thin layer of shell rock, small pebbles, expanded clay or other drainage material, on top - a soil mixture, the layer of which should not exceed 10 cm.
We sprinkle the soil with coarse-grained, preferably river, sand with a layer of 3 cm.

spilling the soil warm water or use a solution of Fundazol or another fungicide - to protect against fungal diseases.

Planting lilac cuttings

To propagate lilacs with cuttings, we make holes no more than a centimeter deep. The main thing is that the cut is immersed in the sand, but not in contact with the soil mixture. Planting material should not cling to each other with leaves.

Using a spray bottle, spray the shoots with water room temperature, cover the container with a lid or polyethylene and put it in a shaded place.

Care for lilac plantings

To get healthy plants from cuttings, we provide seedlings with good care:

Every day we spray the shoots with water from a fine sprayer so that the leaves do not dry out. We also spray the sand: it should always be wet.

Every 7 days we spray the planting material with a pale solution of potassium permanganate, otherwise the leaves may become moldy.

From time to time we remove the emerging condensate, and when the roots appear (in 1-2 months), we ventilate the container.

The soil moisture level should be 90-95%, air temperature - at least 22 degrees.

In September, we plant lilac branches every 30 cm in a well-lit place with light fertile soil and water it. If the leaf darkens over time, do not worry, the main thing is that the roots and buds of the plants survive.

For wintering, we cover the plantings using spruce branches or spunbond, in the spring we remove the covering material. A year later, we transplant the young lilac to a permanent place. It will begin to bloom after two to three years.

Now you know that propagating lilacs with cuttings is a fairly simple task that even an inexperienced gardener can master.

Finally, plant several cuttings at once in order to get the desired result for sure, because rooting of planting material at home is possible only by 50-70%.

In early-mid May, our parks and country estates are filled with the scent of lilacs. Elegant brushes of flowers of various shades of purple, snow-white, create the impression of a holiday. Botanists counted about 30 of its species. Often, when you see a beautiful bush, you want to grow the same one in your area. But how do you reproduce it? In our article, we will reveal to you the secrets of lilac breeding.

What does lilac prefer?

Having set out to grow the variety you like in your country house, you should know that lilacs have their own breeding characteristics that should not be neglected.

Lilac loves to be warmed by the sun, a lot of light, and most importantly - she needs freedom. Any soil, even not too fertile, is even more suitable for her, but what she does not tolerate is stagnant moisture, so drainage is necessary. Does not like lilacs and drafts.

In general, so that there are no problems with lilacs, plant them in a plot with not too rich nutrients soil and maintain moderate moisture. Most varieties of lilacs are self-sufficient and do not need fertilizers, which can only slow down development.

Reproduction methods

Lilac can be propagated both by seeds and vegetatively. Let's consider everything in detail.

cuttings

Cuttings for propagation are suitable both green and stiff. They are harvested in different periods - green during the flowering period of the bush, stiff - when the wood matures. Let us first dwell on the method of propagation of lilacs with green cuttings:

We cut cuttings from green shoots with 4 to 6 sheets. Experienced gardeners recommend choosing for this purpose flowering branches or only a faded plant located at an angle to the vertical shoots. The length of the handle is 150 mm, 3 pairs of buds. We leave the leaves.
Before planting with secateurs or sharp scissors, remove the leaves from the lower pair of buds.
Slightly retreating from the node, we perform a cut along the oblique.
The leaves that are above the harvested ones are shortened by 50%.
Cut off the top of the cutting in a straight line.
We process the shoots prepared for planting with some kind of root growth stimulator, heteroauxin, for example, by dissolving 200 mg of it in a liter of water. Keep the planting material in the solution for about 18 hours.
Preparing a place for landing; we dig a hole, arrange a drainage about 12 cm thick. Lay a 20 cm layer of humus on top and cover it with 5 cm of soil, compact the cake and pour it with water.
We plant the cuttings in a row, leaving a 5 cm gap between them. We do the next row, deviating from the first by 10 cm.
We moisten the landing, build a half-meter frame, cover with a film.
We water once every 7 days, remove the leaves, which will begin to fall off during the rooting process.
After 1-1.5 months, we ventilate the greenhouse, just at this time roots will begin to form.
We remove the film and keep the cuttings open until autumn, not forgetting to water them and remove the emerging weeds.
We transplant strong plants to a permanent place, and leave the weak ones in a greenhouse until spring under cover.

Sometimes cuttings are rooted not in a greenhouse, but in pots or boxes. In any case, as a rule, 100% rooting will not be. Usually half of the material suitable for planting is obtained from total number blanks.

In order to grow lilacs from woody cuttings, you should prepare them in autumn or winter. They are cut from annual branches, then buried in wet sand and taken out to a cold basement, and in the case of winter harvesting, the cuttings are simply buried in the snow. In the spring, they are treated in the same way as with green cuttings. You should know that this type of cuttings takes root very poorly.

Lilacs propagated in this way will be covered with flowers in 5 years.

Root growth

The method of propagation of lilacs by root shoots is the simplest, not requiring much effort. A plant that has good roots is obtained immediately, it is strong, develops quickly and fully retains the characteristics of the variety.

The seedling is separated from the mother bush in autumn in September or, in extreme cases, until October 15th. At this time, the intensity of sap flow is significantly reduced and the trauma for the donor bush will be minimal. Better if it's a cloudy day. Before carrying out the procedure, water the bush well and do everything carefully, because. the roots of the shoots are tender and fragile.

layering

Reproduction of lilac by layering is carried out in 3 ways:

simple abduction;
Chinese;
Dalemsky.

The essence of a simple assignment is that in the spring one-year-old shoots are selected, bent to the ground, pinned and covered with earth. Throughout the season, make sure that there is enough moisture. Separate bushes that are rooted only for 4 years.

Technology Chinese way is:

In early spring, after allowing the soil to dry out a little, grooves are made around a 3 or 4-year-old lilac bush to a depth of about 20 mm.
The strongest annual shoots are laid in prepared places and fixed at 2-3 points.
They take a copper wire with a diameter of not more than 50 mm and pull the shoots, wrapping them 2-3 times in front of the buds tightly enough so that the wire does not slip.
Cover the shoots with a layer loose earth. Vertical shoots will grow from the nodes.
They begin to spud shoots as soon as they rise by 15 centimeters. At the same time, they cover half of their height with earth. Until autumn, this operation is repeated 3 times. As a result, the thickness of the earthen layer will reach 25 cm.
Water regularly, but so as not to erode the ground around the plants.
In September, the ground around the bushes is removed, and the layers with roots are cut off and placed for growing. They move to a permanent place in 2-3 years.

When propagating by the Dalem method, there is more trouble, because first you need to choose a bush for propagation, then cut off all the branches on it to the very base before the cold weather. Moreover, it is desirable to repeat this procedure 2 years in a row. Only after that, when the shoots grow up to 20 cm on the bush and begin to ripen in the lower part, do the following manipulations:

Under the first sufficiently developed buds, the bark is cut across or wrapped around the shoot 3 times with wire in the same place. This is necessary to stimulate root growth. Part of the shoots on the bush is left untouched so as not to weaken its vital activity.
Bury the shoot with soil halfway. In the future, soil is added as the new plant grows, so that ½ of its height is underground all the time.
They dig up the bushes in the fall, grow them up, transplanting them to a place specially designated for this.

seeds

This method is used to grow a rootstock for grafting some valuable variety lilac or to obtain a new variety. To propagate lilac seeds, they are harvested in late autumn. Having collected them, they are dried until the wings open. Then they are subject to stratification, for which they take three times as much wet sand per 1 part of the seeds, place the mixture in a container and store it in the refrigerator in a vegetable box for 2 months.

In March, the seeds are planted in a container. The earth must be steamed to avoid infection of weak plants. If you have collected the seeds of an ordinary lilac, then they will sprout in 2 weeks, but you will have to wait 2 or 3 months for the seedlings of the Amur lilac.

Then, after 14 days, the seedlings are dived, and already in May they are moved to a permanent place.

Practice and sowing seeds directly into the ground. Do it closer to winter, when the first snow falls. In the spring, when they rise and grow a little, they dive and grow them.

You can propagate lilacs in any of these ways, but remember:

If you do layering, then from the bushes with their own root. Sometimes this happens with grafted lilacs, if the branches located above the scion are close enough to the ground.
When propagating lilacs with seeds, do not expect to get the variety from which you collected them. It can grow something completely inconspicuous or, on the contrary, more beautiful than the source.
Lilac care is necessary at the very beginning, and then you will only have to admire the fruits of your labor.

For harvesting cuttings for planting future lilacs, the moment of flowering of the plant is best suited. Cuttings should be cut from bushes in the morning. At the same time, it is better to take those branches that are still green and have not had time to stiffen, have an average thickness and are located in the middle of the crown. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that each of the cuttings has 2-3 nodes, and the internodes are not long.

All leaves present on the lower node are removed. After that, a cut is made at an angle, located as close as possible to the lower node. For cutting, it is recommended to use a special secateurs or a sharp grafting knife. The remaining leaves on the handle should be shortened by half. The tip of the shoot itself is removed with a straight cut above the topmost node. The stalk prepared in this way is placed in a growth stimulator solution for 18 hours. Not all lilac cuttings can take root, so it is advisable to prepare several branches at once.

Lilac cuttings are planted in a container, which is filled with a mixture of peat and perlite in a ratio of 1: 1. The thickness of such a layer should be about 20 cm. It is recommended to pour a small layer of river sand on top of this mixture, after which it can be shed with a fungicide solution. Immediately before planting, each cutting must be dipped in the Kornevin stimulator. The lower end of the lilac cutting should be completely placed in the sand. After planting, all cuttings are sprayed with water (you can use a spray bottle), to which you can add a little solution left over from soaking.

Then the container with plantings is covered with two layers of polyethylene and darkened (should stand in partial shade). In order to prevent the sand from drying out, it is recommended to spray it 3 times a day. The success of rooting cuttings largely depends on the maintenance high humidity. About once every 7 days, you can use a solution of potassium permanganate to spray the plantings, this will help prevent the development of mold on lilac leaves.

The roots on the cuttings appear approximately 45-55 days after planting (depending on the variety). From about this time, airing of lilac plantings is allowed, after which they fully open.

The young roots that have appeared in the cuttings are still very weak, so they need to be planted with great care. Rooted lilac cuttings are planted for growing at a distance of about 35 cm. The leaves may turn black - this is not scary, the main thing is not to damage the roots. For the first winter, young lilac seedlings are recommended to be covered with spruce branches, and removed in spring. Such a lilac is planted in a permanent place after 2 years, and it can bloom in the 4-5th year.