How to melt a plastic bottle at home. Remelting plastic bottles at home - how to melt plastic and why. Modern equipment for small business

Today, often doing housework or creativity, we have to face the task of melting plastic product or part of it. And I want to do it carefully and as carefully as possible. How is it happening melting plastic at home? This question was asked by our editors and that's what we came up with. We offer you the most popular plastic melting methods.

hot oil melting technology

In hot oil, plastic heats up very moderately, and this is very important and necessary when processing this material. The heating temperature of the oil bath is easy to adjust. The only drawback of this procedure is that after molding the plastic parts, it is difficult to glue them together. Then, how to completely clean the surface of plastic from oil is quite simple.

Other smelting methods

It is also possible through the use of hot sand. This method is most suitable if you need to bend pipes made of plastic material. By the way, if you are looking for a laser hair removal salon in Kyiv or the Crimea, we recommend contacting the Lazerok company http://lazerok.ua/action/lazernaya-epilyatsiya-za-49-grn.html.

In addition, melting of plastic can also occur under the influence of a jet of hot air. A hair dryer and even an ordinary vacuum cleaner will perfectly cope with this task. The only thing is that in this case you need to mount a special electric heating component in the tube, which is inserted into the outlet of the vacuum cleaner.

It can also be achieved with a regular iron ruler. However, this will be relevant if you need to melt flexible thin sheets of plastic. In this case, use one or two iron rulers, previously heated on an electric stove or over a burner fire.

For melting extremely thin plastic sheets, it is better to use an electrically heated electrode wire.

infrared lights

It can also be carried out by heaters of infrared lights. In that case, the most optimum temperature heating for different plastic materials will be different:

– for polyvinyl chloride 130-140°С;
- for organic glass 145-150°C;
– for celluloid 100°C.

When plastic materials are heated, it is very important to adhere to the recommended temperatures. After all, too long a heating time for plastics can affect the properties of the material and its appearance. Yes, by own experience we can say that for heating a plastic sheet 1 mm wide, a time of 1 minute is sufficient. 30 s.

plastics, plastics, - materials based on polymers, capable of acquiring a given shape when heated under pressure and retaining it after cooling. May contain fillers, plasticizers, stabilizers, pigments, lubricants and other components. Depending on the nature of the transformations that occur with the polymer during its processing into a product, they are divided into thermoplastics (the most important of them are plastics based on polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene, polyvinyl chloride, polyamides, polycarbonates, polytetrafluoroethylene) and thermoplastics (the most large-tonnage type is phenoplastics, widely plastics are also used epoxy resins, polyester resins, organosilicon polymers, etc.).

Plastics are also distinguished by the type of polymer (eg, aminoplasts, etrols), filler (eg, fiberglass, carbon fiber) and performance characteristics (anti-friction, atmospheric, thermal, fire-resistant, etc.).

The main methods of processing thermoplastics are injection molding, extrusion, vacuum and pneumatic molding; thermoplastics - pressing and injection molding.

The most valuable properties of plastics: low density, high electrical insulating and thermal insulation characteristics, resistance in aggressive environments, high mechanical strength under various types of mechanical loads.

Plastics are the most important construction materials modern technology used in all industries, in railway and other modes of transport, in construction, agriculture, medicine and life.

The majority of polymers are organic matter However, many inorganic and organoelement polymers are also known. characteristic feature polymer is that when its molecule is formed, it combines big number identical or different molecules of low molecular weight substances - monomers. This results in a long chain molecule, which is called a macromolecule. Its constituent low molecular weight repeating structural units, or elementary units, are connected by strong chemical bonds. The macromolecules themselves are interconnected by weak physical intermolecular forces.

The chain structure of macromolecules and different nature bonds along and between chains defines a complex of special physical and chemical properties polymer material, such as, for example, the simultaneous combination in it of strength, lightness and elasticity, the ability to form films and fibers. The chain structure of macromolecules is also responsible for the fact that polymers can swell significantly in liquids, thus forming a number of systems intermediate between solid and liquid. Polymer solutions are characterized by increased viscosity.

The combination of monomers into macromolecules occurs as a result of chemical reactions, which proceed according to the laws of chain or step processes. The number of repeating units in a macromolecule determines the molecular weight of the polymer, which can be tens, hundreds of thousands and millions of carbon units. Whatever reaction a polymer is obtained from, it always consists of a set of macromolecules of different sizes, so the molecular weight of the polymer is estimated by some average value,

During processing, which is usually carried out at elevated temperatures, various necessary additives such as plasticizers, fillers, stabilizers, property modifiers, and others.

Main types of plastics

Main types of plastics	Main characteristics	Scope of plastics
HDPE low density polyethylene	Lightweight, durable, flexible material with low gas and water permeability, good dielectric. AT certain conditions possesses high chemical resistance to organic solvents and hostile environment. Melting point 105-115ºС Frost resistance -70ºС	Used to make: Films, insulation of wires and cables, children's toys, products household purpose, medical and cosmetic packaging, packaging for water, juices, detergents etc.
Polyethylene high density LDPE	Compared to HDPE, LDPE is characterized by higher heat resistance, fire resistance, and increased physical and mechanical characteristics in tension and bending. Melting point 125-135ºС Frost resistance -70ºС Some brands of this plastic can be operated at temperatures from -260ºС to +120ºС. Some brands of this plastic are resistant to cracking, chemical resistance in the most aggressive environments.	It is used for the manufacture of pipelines, corrosion-resistant equipment, cosmetic and medical packaging, in the production of automobile gas tanks, in the manufacture of packaging for meat and fish products.
Polypropylene PP	PP is a tougher plastic than polyethylene. The melting temperature of this plastic is 170ºС, and the operating temperature range is from -10º to +140ºС, so products made from this plastic can be sterilized Frost resistance of certain types of this plastic can be increased to -60ºС	Widely used for the manufacture of various types of medical packaging. Various technical parts.
Polystyrene PS	This plastic is distinguished by high dielectric properties, optical transparency, low heat resistance (up to 70ºС) and low impact strength, it is well processed into products by injection molding and extrusion.	It is used in the production of electronic, electrical and radio engineering products, consumer goods, as well as sheets, profiles and films.
ABS plastics	Compared to high-impact grades of polystyrene, ABS plastics have increased heat resistance, impact strength and chemical resistance. These plastics are highly resistant to oils, glycerin, alkalis, acids, atmospheric aging. Some brands of plastics have a fairly high transparency. Melting point 190-230ºС	They are used in the manufacture of products in the automotive industry, instrumentation, all kinds of office equipment, medical equipment, etc.
Polyamide PA	Polyamides are engineering plastics; they are characterized by excellent resistance to oils, gasoline, kerosene, high chemical resistance to alkaline media, high wear resistance. The disadvantages of this type of plastics include the instability of dimensions under operating conditions, associated with a rather significant water absorption. Melting point 180-260ºС	They are used in the production of technical products.
Polycarbonate PC	Polycarbonate refers to engineering plastics; it is characterized by high strength characteristics, especially under impact loads, low water absorption, high dielectric characteristics, high optical transparency. Temperature range of PC operation from -100ºС to +135ºС	It is used in mechanical engineering, instrument making, for the manufacture of various case products. Due to its high transparency, this plastic is used in medicine and in the manufacture of food packaging.
Polyvinyl chloride PVC	The brand range of this plastic is very wide. Divided into rigid PVC This plastic is water and chemical resistant and has good dielectric properties. The disadvantages include neither low impact strength and low operating temperature (not higher than 70-80ºС) and flexible pvc This plastic is characterized by high elasticity in a wide temperature range (from -60ºС to +100ºС), good dielectric characteristics, high water, gasoline and oil resistance.	These plastics are used for the manufacture of pipes, hoses, various types of profiles, insulating gaskets, medical products, etc.

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Working with PVC How to bend and grind it.

Today we will soften, bend and sand PVC.

And again, before I start, I want to note that when PVC is heated, fumes that are harmful to the body are released. Therefore, heat the PVC in a well ventilated area, wear a mask, and do not use the stove in which you cook food to heat the PVC.

Choosing glue

We will glue various PVC parts to each other using superglue. You can use the first available from Soyuzpechat, helium, liquid, or at least the ubiquitous 401 glue. He will fit too.

Why Superglue? Everything is simple. Firstly, it dries very quickly, which saves you a lot of time, and secondly, the glued places will be even stronger than the PVC itself. So it's good for strengthening.

For example, let's make a simple shoulder pad

First, you need to get some refs, which is quite obvious. Making a shoulder pad from scratch is not very efficient.

Now we need patterns. For their manufacture we use cardboard. Just apply, estimate and cut off the excess. When the shape is more than suitable for us, we transfer to PVC.
We also need a shoulder pad.

Types of automotive plastics

I think it’s not difficult to guess how to make a pattern for him.

We arm ourselves with a clerical knife and carefully cut the details. You should have something similar to the picture above.

Now glue the pieces together. Apply glue with a thin uniform strip. Do not pour it like a bucket, everything is needed in moderation. Adhesive smudges along the edges are unlikely to add beauty to the shoulder pad.

If your parts don't really fit together and there are gaps between the surfaces, it may happen that somewhere they won't stick. In this case, you need to use a knife to fit the parts to the degree of maximum grinding to each other. Then lightly sand the surface to be glued with sandpaper (this will help the glue to grip better) and glue the parts to each other again.

After you have glued the side, trim the edges so that there are no protruding corners.

By the way, when applying glue, do it in a continuous line or zigzag. This will ensure even coverage and bonding of the surfaces. If you apply glue in dots, then later, after heating, an unpleasant surprise in the form of wavy surfaces may await you.

If you need to apply any pattern or engraving, it is best to do this before heating and bending the PVC. It will just make you feel better, trust me.

Now, let's get to the most interesting part.

Prepare some foil. On it we will put our detail.

Preheat the oven to 225 degrees.

And finally, place the parts in the oven. Now you can put on gloves. After 3-5 minutes, your PVC will be soft and pliable. Take out the heated parts as soon as possible and start bending them with your hands or using prepared forms.

A few words about forms. For them, almost everything will fit. If only the surface could withstand not very high, but still temperatures. After all, you can bend PVC even on your own body. The main thing is that a layer of clothing separates you from the heat.

You can talk a lot about how to bend PVC, but in my opinion, it's better to see it once. That's why I made this video for you:

(editor's note: in general, she does not say anything useful, so the video does not need to be translated)

After you have given the details the desired shape, we arm ourselves with sandpaper and begin to process the edges of the side. Your task is to round the edges so that the pauldron looks more naturalistic.

With the help of glue, you can also eliminate small cavities and scratches. Just apply a little glue on them and spread it in a thin layer over the surface. Then clean everything with fine sandpaper.

Also with the help of glue, it is good to mask the cracks. Just repeat the procedure of applying glue to the gap and cleaning the surface with sandpaper until you are satisfied with the result.

Once you're done with the rough sanding, take your finest sandpaper and go over all the sanded surfaces. This will help smooth out the contours even more and get rid of the scratches left by the larger sandpaper.

At this step, you should have a shoulder pad ready to be primed and painted. Congratulations on this.

Well, and finally. Above you can see my entire set of surfaces that I use as shapes. As you can see, almost anything will do. From a mannequin to a tin can. That's all.

Good luck in crafting,
your revision.

Discuss VKontakte…

26.04.2018

How do different plastics burn and melt?

Polymeric materials and plastics (plastics) can burn, releasing a large amount of substances into the air, including very toxic ones. But the combustion features of each group of plastics are different, therefore, during production, a certain set of materials is selected that can be used to obtain specific products. In addition to direct combustion, which completely destroys any material, plastics are able to soften and melt, and become brittle when strongly cooled, which also limits their application.

Technologies for the production of plastic from polymers and copolymers take into account the entire set of physical and chemical parameters of the material. In modern production, special additives are used - antipyrines, which can significantly change the melting and burning temperature of plastic, but as a rule this has the effect of changing its mechanical properties. What determines the strength of plastic is the subject of a separate description.

Behavior of plastics when heated and cooled

The suitability of polymers and plastics for the manufacture of products and subsequent use depends on the behavior of the material during heating and cooling. Combustion is the last, decisive point, and before it, any plastic goes through several more states:

a gradual increase in plasticity - not typical of all materials, but can manifest itself in the loss of shape of the finished product and part;

plastic softening limit - the temperature at which the material becomes pliable, but does not melt yet;

melting limit - the temperature threshold, after reaching which the property of fluidity manifests itself without the application of extraneous forces;

brittleness limit - the lower temperature threshold upon cooling, upon reaching which the chains of polymers break, the filler is separated, and the plastic becomes brittle, collapses from small loads and shocks.

Sheet plastic is made on equipment that maintains the exit temperature between the limits of softening and melting, due to which a thin film comes out of the extruder. Then it cools, acquiring the strength of a sheet or remains a film with great plasticity and stretching property.

Temperature limits for the use of plastics

When choosing a material for the production of plastic parts, all temperature conditions its operation. The finished product must be in conditions under which a gap of approximately 20 - 30 ° C remains to the limit of brittleness and melting, but some materials are recommended to be used even with more significant deviations from the boundary values.

Let's bring concrete examples temperature limits of softening, melting and loss of brittleness for different groups the most common plastics.

Polyolefins - PVD, HDPE, PPP

Polyolefins, a large category that includes polyethylene, polypropylene, and derived copolymers, have a wide range of temperatures. LDPE softens at 80 C, HDPE - at 130 C, polypropylene is able to become completely plastic at 95-100 C. Melting begins with further heating to 105, 130 and 170 C, respectively. -60°C, polypropylene -8 to -15°C. Operating temperature limits may be changed by modification, but this will affect physical properties material.

PVC and ABS plastics

Plastics based on PVC and ABS plastics have a wide range of values ​​critical for production and operation. PVC foam can be used in the temperature range from -70 C to +70 C, specific values ​​​​depend on the brand and composition. ABS plastic softens when heated to 95 - 120 C.

Harmful and safe plastics

Apart from temperature limits the ability of plastic to burn, fade, release soot into the air (smoke) or imperceptibly fill the room with toxic substances when heated is also taken into account.

What is the softening and melting temperature of polyvinyl chloride (PVC)?

According to these properties, plastic can be distinguished if, for some reason, there is no marking on the part or fragment.

Heating PET

The widely used PET, which bottles are made of, begins to soften already at 60 C, which means that in hot water a strong antimony poison and a set of carcinogens will fall. The whole set of hazardous substances will be released during the combustion of such plastic. When working with such materials, it is better to use hot water to increase plasticity, and if it is impossible, work with a powerful hood.

Behavior of polyethylenes

HDPE, also known as low pressure polyethylene (high density), is considered one of the most safe materials when heated. In containers made of HDPE, you can pour heated water and edible milk. At a melting point of about 130 C, the material practically does not emit hazardous substances into the air and liquids. LDPE or high pressure polyethylene (low density) melts at about 90 C, so its use with hot water undesirable. The material is classified as safe, does not emit hazardous components into the air and liquids.

The danger of PVC when heated

A serious danger when heated is PVC, which is often called vinyl. It is impossible to melt and burn it if there is no special hood. The material softens at a temperature of about 60 C, releases lead and dioxin, which makes it a very dangerous composition. Use of PVC at room temperature it is safe, but it is not worth heating products above 45 ° C without ventilation or an exhaust hood, as well as pouring hot drinks into them.

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Plastic panels: characteristics and advantages.

If the walls inside the house are characterized by high tuberosity and significant irregularities, then the plaster will most likely have to be abandoned. Not only will all this take a lot of mortar, which is very undesirable for walls, it will also hit your pocket hard. An ideal and more attractive alternative to plaster and all types of finishing work is plastic panels.

Compared to drywall, plastic panels have a number of significant advantages that make them rightfully the most practical and comfortable material for interior decoration walls. Panels are easy to install - for installation of ten square meters a solid wall takes about three hours. Installation does not require any special tools and complex equipment. And with a superficial acquaintance and methods of mounting panels, even an inexperienced person can install them ...

Plastic panels are multifunctional. No matter where you install them - in the kitchen or in the bedroom - everywhere they are well washed and do not require much maintenance. In addition, the panels are resistant to sudden changes in temperature and mechanical influences which makes them durable in service.

It makes no sense to talk about a huge selection of panels of any design - to your taste. The panels are narrow and wide, “solid” (there are no joints - the wall will be solid) and “separate” (there are joints). There are options of any color, with or without a pattern, with all sorts of patterns and abstract structures. Simply put - choose, I do not want.

Plastic panels feature a range operational properties. First of all, the panels are not afraid of moisture. Thanks to this, the bathroom can now be completely finished with plastic. You do not have to mess with expensive tiles, hire teams of workers for wall cladding. All that is required is to nail the slats to the walls and ceiling and install panels on top of them.

The light weight of the panels is another important advantage over all other materials for wall upholstery.

Melting point of plastic

Contrary to all unhealthy prejudices, the material of manufacture plastic panels fireproof. For example: the melting point of PVC is approximately 450 degrees Celsius, while dried wood ignites already at 270 degrees. In addition, the panels are environmentally friendly, as plastic, as you know, has found application in all areas of life and in packaging.

Affordability is a very significant advantage of plastic panels. Inexpensive and beautiful PVC panels are able to turn an outdated and not renovated room or kitchen into a comfortable room.

It is important to know that upholstery of the room with panels will entail a slight decrease in area. But on the other hand, all pipes, cracks, wiring and everything else will go “into the wall”. And for the next ten years, repairs can be completely forgotten.

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high melting point plastic

Home » Articles » Styrofoam properties (combustion, freezing, loads)

Styrofoam properties

Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) is a gas-containing material obtained from polystyrene and its derivatives, consisting of sintered granules with pores and voids between the granules. The strength of the material directly depends on its apparent density: the denser, the stronger.

Foam plastic is used in construction as a heat insulator, heat insulator, low-combustible (subject to flame retardant treatment) material for facade decoration.

What are the main properties of expanded polystyrene?

The main properties of expanded polystyrene include:

1. low vapor permeability;
2. water absorption (depending on the density of the material), preventing the accumulation of moisture near the walls, moving the dew point into the material (all together allows the effective use of foam in structures with external wet-type insulation);
3. resistance to mold, fungus, microorganisms and moss (colony formation was not recorded);
4. non-nutritive for rodents (however, they can use foam as a material for bedding or for grinding teeth);
5. durability (no loss of quality for at least 60 years, in favorable conditions from 80 years old);
6. the coefficient of thermal expansion is from 5-10 to 7-10 (i.e. from 0.05 to 0.07 mm per 1 m and 1 C), which should be taken into account when designing buildings in places with strong temperature fluctuations.

At what temperature does styrofoam melt?

The operating temperature of expanded polystyrene is from -180 to +80 C, for a short time up to 95 C (withstands contact with bitter bitumen). The melting point of polystyrene foam will be 120 C (at this point, irreversible depolymerization occurs). The processed foam may have different exact heat resistance data related to which impregnations were used during production.

The processing option used by us has a flammability class G1 and is not destroyed by more than 65% when exposed to temperature.

What load can the polystyrene foam withstand?

Expanded polystyrene withstands the load in accordance with its density class (and the strength directly related to it) and an infinite number of load cycles, if they do not exceed 80% of the maximum possible compressive strength for a given block. In the studies, materials with a density not higher than 20-25 kg/m3 were used; this version of a lightweight design is the most convenient in operation and gives a low load on the supporting elements.

There are only four orders of columns in architecture Gustave Flaubert

melting point of foam

Main Insulation Extruded, extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam resistant to the action of most used in construction work solutions of salts, acids and alkalis, oils, alcohols and alcohol dyes. When interacting with cements and gases, extruded polystyrene foam is not destroyed or damaged.

Along with this, it must be protected from the action of organic solvents: gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, aldehydes, ketones and ethers.

Create extruded polystyrene foam from granular polystyrene. Polystyrene granulate is loaded into an extruder, where it is first melted, and later the melt is forced under pressure through a spinneret. Since at the same time as the granulate, a blowing agent (a blowing agent, for example, a mixture of carbon dioxide CO2 and light freons) is loaded into the extruder, closed pores 0.1-0.2 mm in size are formed in polystyrene. Closed pores make extruded polystyrene foam impervious to dripping liquid, steam, dust and other substances.

Some insulation vendors who specialize in selling extruded polystyrene foam claim that expanded polystyrene in general, and extruded polystyrene foam in particular, is almost a panacea for all the troubles in the field of thermal insulation. This is of course not the case. But it must be borne in mind that in some cases such a conclusion may be honest. Of course, any type of heat-insulating materials has its pros and cons and, accordingly, has specific areas of application in which its advantages are manifested to the fullest extent.

For example, the low vapor permeability of extruded polystyrene foam can be considered as an advantage over such insulation as mineral wool. they say that the thermal insulation is not blown by the wind, does not let moisture through and does not require additional waterproofing.

But, if you look at the situation differently, the same property is a drawback. Wall insulation with extruded polystyrene foam will transform the room into warm bath With high humidity. Such walls do not breathe.

How to be, what to choose?

You decide. It is fundamentally important only to know the properties of the selected heat-insulating materials and to understand how these properties will affect the microclimate in the room. And it is imperative to take into account in which room the heater will work. It may happen that this particular property of the thermal insulation material does not matter for this particular room. This is true not only for extruded polystyrene foam and not only for polystyrene foam in general, but also for any other heat-insulating materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam prices are very moderate. And despite the fact that the price of expanded polystyrene is its undoubted advantage, one should not get hung up on low cost. There is no need to look at the price of extruded polystyrene foam in isolation from its other properties. You can be sure that expanded polystyrene has enough other advantages ...

So certain types extruded polystyrene foam can withstand a load of up to 35 thousand kilograms per m. And in this sense, extruded polystyrene foam is beyond any doubt superior to the hardest mineral wool boards.

Manufacturers of thermal insulation materials claim that extruded polystyrene foam is difficult to ignite and is prone to self-extinguishing. There is no reason not to believe them. The formulation of modern extruded polystyrene foams, in addition to polystyrene granules, without fail includes additives that discourage extruded polystyrene foam from burning.

But one should not deceive oneself due to the fact that polystyrene foam is a polymer and, like most of the compounds of this glorious kind, easily melts.

It should not be explained that at the end of melting, its pores stick together and the property of extruded polystyrene foam to insulate something completely disappears. Based on this, by the way, extruded polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, by and large, under no circumstances are used for thermal insulation in the broad sense of the word. Some explanation is needed here.

The term thermal insulation, in contrast to the term insulation, is broader. To insulate means not to allow to freeze. Imagine some object that will be in the environment negative temperatures to which it is not adapted. It needs to be insulated. And in this case, expanded polystyrenes fully cope with the functions assigned to it.

But quite often the opposite situation appears - some object is very hot and it is necessary not to allow it to cool or heat what is around. And here the situation for extruded polystyrene foam is not so encouraging.

According to various data and for various polystyrenes, its melting point lies in the range of 250-300°C. Along with this, expanded polystyrene melts faster than a solid piece of polystyrene, which is harder to warm up. But already at 250°C, in addition, the most refractory polystyrenes begin to smell and by no means violets.

Experts will explain to us, they say, the polymer begins to decompose. And what is formed during the decomposition of polystyrene can be assumed. They can, for example, emit styrene vapors - a kind of bad with a benzene ring in the right side. Quite unnecessary for health, it must be admitted, the connection. And it would be nice if only this - styrene itself can decompose at high temperatures. And no matter what stands out in the investigation, it will definitely not be necessary.

In other words, if it is necessary to isolate a warm object with a temperature of 200 degrees or more, extruded polystyrene foam will obviously not be suitable for this work.

Is it not good or not?

To put the question this way is not entirely correct. You just need to understand that any thermal insulation material has its own areas of application and do not use it where it cannot fully work.

Extruded polystyrene foam is used as thermal insulation…

Melting and softening temperature of plastics, operating temperature of plastics

AT recent times plastics and plastics find wide application in industry and life. Therefore, it often occurs the problem of choosing a specific plastic for the given temperature conditions of its operation. When choosing a plastic, it is necessary to take into account the range of its operating temperature or the temperature at which the plastic begins to soften and melt. The table below contains all the data required for this.

The table shows the density values ρ . plastic melting point t pl. Vicat softening point t size. brittleness temperature t xp. as well as the operating temperature range t slave under which plastics are allowed.

The values ​​in the table are given for more than 270 types of plastic. For each plastic, at least one temperature is indicated, which makes it possible to assess the permissible temperature conditions for its operation. Considered the following types plastics and plastics: polyolefins, polystyrenes, fluoroplasts, PVC, polyacrylates, phenolics, foams, ABS plastics. polyurethanes, resins and compounds, anti-friction self-lubricating plastics, fiberglass, etc.

Polyolefins include plastics and plastics such as polyethylene, polypropylene and copolymers based on them. The melting point of polyethylene is 105-135°C depending on the density, and the operating temperature range of this plastic is from -60 to 100°C. High-strength low-pressure polyethylene can be operated at very low temperatures: The brittleness temperature of this plastic is minus 140°C.

The melting point of polypropylene is in the range of 164-170°C. At low temperatures, this plastic becomes brittle already from minus 8°C. Among other representatives of polyolefins, it is necessary to note a plastic resistant to high temperatures, based on templen. This plastic withstands temperatures up to 180-200°C and has a frost resistance of -60-40°C.

It should be noted the modes of operation of plastics based on PVC and abs-plastics. PVC-based foams have an operating temperature of -70 to 70°C, depending on the brand. Softening temperature abs plastic equal to 95-117°C.

Plastics with a high melting point include fluoroplastics and polyamides, as well as heat-resistant plastic niplon. For example, the melting point of fluoroplast is 327°C(for fluoroplast-4 and 4D). Polyamides (kaprolon, caprolite) have a softening point of 190-200°C, and the melting point of such plastic is 215-220°C. Glass and carbon fiber Niplon has a melting point above 300°C.

Of the variety of polymers for operation at high temperatures, plastics based on silicone resins are suitable. Maximum temperature operation of such plastic can reach 700°C.

Density and characteristic temperatures of plastics and plastics

You will need

• - container for melting plastic;
• - soldering iron or soldering station;
• - gas-burner;
• - industrial dryer;
• - welding gun.

Instruction

Before you start melting the plastic, try out a small piece of it. Not every type of plastic can be melted in ordinary ones, so it is advisable to find out during the experiment. Grab a piece of material with tongs or tweezers and bring it to an open or gas burner. The heated plastic will either melt slowly or start burning immediately in the open air.

After making sure that the plastic can be melted, grind raw material and place it in a metal container, for example, in tin can. To ensure the melting of the material, insert the container with crushed plastic into another container with big sizes. Pour water into it and put the entire structure on a fire or stove, making a kind of water bath. This method is suitable for processing plastics with a low melting point.

To melt small pieces of plastic, use a heated soldering iron tip or gas burner. If possible, use soldering station with built-in tip temperature control. Select the temperature required for melting, based on the experiment. Too high a temperature can ignite the material or make the plastic brittle.

Use a welding gun or blow dryer to melt plastic with increased strength. The procedure for working with a welding gun is indicated in the technical documentation for it. The kit also includes filler materials that allow welding different kinds plastics and plastic, for example, to melt the seams of the connected products.

Take precautions when processing plastic at high temperatures. It is advisable to carry out all procedures in the open air in order to avoid poisoning by combustion products. Avoid getting the melt on exposed parts of the body and clothing to prevent burns and tissue damage.

Sources:

• how to handle plastic

If any plastic parts break, many try to repair them on their own. However, not everyone succeeds. Since when choosing a connection method, it is necessary to take into account the rheological properties of plastics and their type: easily weldable, difficult to weld, or those to which the fusion welding method is not applicable at all.

Instruction

You can use either a semi-professional hair dryer, with continuously adjustable temperature and flow. Additionally, you will need nozzles for welding. To do this, it is necessary to clean both sides of the weld. Select filler rods according to a fragment similar to the material. If possible, make a test welding to check the compatibility of materials, as well as to select the required temperature, speed of the blow dryer and indentation force. Preheat the hair dryer for 10 minutes to stabilize the hot air.

Fold the fragments of the part and fix in desired position using special clamps. Sharpen the end of the rod to make the initial welding process easier. Tilt the rod at a 45° angle while welding, or use the fast welding attachment. The use of the nozzle facilitates the welding process as it has fixed positions for both the rod and the hot air gun. In work, press the bar a little. As a result, you should get a smooth seam that rises slightly above the surface. After complete cooling, it is necessary to sand the seam and paint, if necessary.

Related article

Sources:

• melting of plastics

If you need to connect plastic parts You don't always need to glue them. In some cases, to connect the plastic, it can be melted in the right place, and then the parts are combined. When choosing the type of joint, the type of material and its ability to be joined by such impromptu welding should be taken into account.

You will need

• - building hair dryer;
• - welding gun;
• - soldering iron (soldering station);
• - filler rod.

Instruction

Determine if the plastic is melt-weldable. Plastics can be welded easily, difficultly, or not meltable at all. You can find this out by experience. Take a piece of the test material using pliers or tweezers and heat it on an open flame. Carry out this procedure in air to avoid exposure of the respiratory tract to combustion.

If you want to melt plastic, cut it into pieces and place it in a saucepan or other container, and then heat it over a fire, making a water bath first. Pour the softened plastic into the mold or process the seams of the products to be joined with it. In this case, not only caution should be taken, but also quickly, otherwise the plastic will harden prematurely.

Use a soldering iron tip to melt the plastic. It is more convenient to use not an ordinary soldering iron, but a soldering station, which makes it possible to regulate the heating temperature of the tip. The required temperature parameters are also selected empirically on pieces of material. If careless with a soldering iron, there is a risk of spoiling the plastic surface or making the seam unnecessarily fragile.

If possible, get a special welding one that melts plastic and various types of plastics. The set also contains material samples, which are used to fuse seams and joints. The procedure for use and safety measures when handling it are set out in the instructions for the device.

For some types of plastic, you can use a hair dryer, which allows you to heat the material to the required temperature. Pre-clean the surfaces to be joined on both sides of the future seam. Select the required nozzle and filler rod. It is advisable to make a test melting of the plastic and how compatible the materials to be joined are.

Preheat the hair dryer to stabilize the temperature. Secure the parts to be joined by melting using a vise or clamps. To make the melting process go faster, sharpen the end of the filler rod. Weld the parts by melting them with a hairdryer, while lightly pressing the rod against the melted surfaces. After the melt has solidified, process the surface of the seam, giving it a smooth appearance.

Plastic bottles serve as a universal container for liquid. They have an advantage over glass containers due to their elasticity and larger volume. First plastic containers appeared in the United States in 1970 and have since become widespread throughout the world.

In this guide, I will show you how to melt plastic at home. Remelting plastic bottles from high density polyethylene (HDPE) and making blocks from them that can be used in many ways.

Every day we use and throw away a lot of plastic bottles... Let's change that!

Dave Hackens amazing guy who has made many videos about plastic recycling. He shows how to collect, melt down and process plastic objects to create new things. However, if you just want to try recycling a few bottles, follow this quick guide.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

MATERIALS:

• High density polyethylene (HDPE) bottles
• Wooden planks (for mold making)

TOOLS:

• clamps
• baking paper
• thermal protection gloves
• scissors/knife

Step 2: Shape

There is no need to make a very complicated mold to melt the plastic.

Since we're going to melt down the plastic and get a regular block, we need a simple box. The more accurate and accurate the box is assembled, the more accurate and accurate the block will be.

As you can see from the pictures above, I used wooden planks, which were in my workshop, I also covered each inside of the box with baking paper. This will be important later, when we will retrieve the block from the form. Wood - porous material, and melted plastic is very sticky, so don't touch them.

Step 3: How to cut bottles

First of all, HDPE, what is it? How can you distinguish it from all other types of plastic?

HDPE is high density polyethylene. This is a fairly common material used specifically for the production of plastic bottles and corrosion-resistant pipelines.

As you can see in picture #1, it's easy to tell it apart from other types of plastic thanks to the number "2" as the resin's identification code.

After removing the labels and washing the bottles, we need to cut them into small pieces. The smaller the better, as it will take less time to melt. Use a knife or strong scissors.

I usually start with the knife, cut off the neck (photo #2) which is the tougher part, then cut off the base and finally the handle.

After that, you can use scissors to cut the larger pieces into smaller pieces (photo #4).

Step 4: Melting

Each type of plastic has a different melting point.

Dave Hakkens did a great job studying each type to individualize right point melt().

I learned that in my oven HDPE usually melts at about 180°C.

While the oven is heating up, place a piece of baking paper on a baking sheet and arrange the pieces of plastic on it. Finally place the baking sheet in the oven and check it every 10 minutes.

Step 5: Marble Effect

The first coloring I will show you is my favorite: marble effect.

After 10/15 minutes, if you see that the plastic looks sticky, you can take it out of the oven. Put on heat-resistant gloves and twist the plastic (photo #2/3).

Be quick (the plastic cools down), but be aware that it is very hot and sticky.

Once you have something like what you can see in photo #4, you can put it back in the oven.

WARNING: Use gloves! If plastic comes into contact with your skin, immediately wash the affected area with cold water to relieve pain.

Step 6: Fixing the Form

After 10 minutes, remove the plastic from the oven and place it in the mold. Clamp it as hard as you can, and every 5 minutes, tighten the clamps harder. HDPE shrinks as it cools, so you have to tighten the clamps often to get a flat block.

Step 7: Marble Block

This is the result after 2 hours of cooling.

As you can see from the photo, thanks to the twist-rotation technique we used, we got a beautiful marble effect. I really like this method because you can see all the colors used.

Step 8: Camouflage Effect

Here is another coloring page. I call it the camouflage effect.

It is easier and safer than the marble effect because there is no need to touch the plastic with your hands. As in Step 5, after 10/15 minutes, if you see that the plastic looks sticky, you can remove it from the oven.

This time we will use the folding technique. Very carefully (and always use gloves), lift up the baking paper on one side and fold the plastic over onto itself (photo #2).

Repeat the same on the other side and put back in the oven.

Step 9: Fixing the Shape

After 10 minutes of melting, remove the plastic from the oven, put in last time, making something like an egg roll (photo # 1) and place it in a mold.

As in step 6, clamp it as hard as you can and come back every 5 minutes to tighten the clamps. Then leave it to cool down for a couple of hours.

Step 10: Camouflage Block

Here is the result. It really looks like camouflage.

Details you can cut and sharpen each of them by hand, but this technique very imperfect: it takes a lot of effort, and it is impossible to get two absolutely identical products. Therefore, in this material you will learn how to carry out plastic injection molding at home.

What we might need

For self-made plastic molding, we do not need any special tools or materials. We can make a template model, a kind of matrix, from almost anything - from metal, cardboard or wood. But regardless of which option you choose, in any case, it must be impregnated with a special solution before starting work. This is especially true for wood and paper, because they actively absorb moisture and to prevent this process, we need to fill the pores, preferably with liquid wax.

Silicone.

If we settled on this option, then you should buy it with the lowest viscosity - this will contribute to a better streamlining of the part. Of course, the results will be more accurate. There are a great many of its varieties on the modern market, and it makes no sense to compare them with each other: we have neither the time nor the opportunity for this. We can only say with certainty that sealant for cars, preferably red, is ideal for coating. With it, pouring plastic at home will be much easier.

Determining the casting material

To be honest, there are even more molding materials than silicone grades. Among them are liquid plastic, and ordinary gypsum mixed with PVA glue, and even polyester resin. Substances for cold welding, low-melting metals, and so on are somewhat less popular. But in our case, we will be based on some other characteristics of casting substances:

• The duration of their work.
• Viscosity.

Regarding the first point, it indicates the time during which we can carry out manipulations with the material that has not yet hardened. Of course, if the manufacture of plastic products takes place in the factory, then two minutes will be more than enough. Well, we, who do it at home, need at least five minutes. And if it so happened that suitable materials If you couldn’t get it, then it’s quite possible to replace them with a simple epoxy resin. Where to look for it? In auto shops or in stores for fans of aeromodelling. In addition, such resin is often found in ordinary hardware stores.

Making a cut shape

This one is ideal for pouring plastic with your own hands, because unusual types of resins can be poured into it. A little trick of this technique can be considered that at the preliminary stage the entire surface of the model must be treated with silicone, and then, after the material has completely hardened, the matrix can be cut off. After that, we extract its “insides”, which will be useful to us for further casting. In order for us to fit the form, we must apply a three-millimeter layer of sealant, after which we simply wait until the material hardens - usually it takes two hours. In this case, it is desirable to apply it with a brush. When applying the first layer, we must try to fill all the irregularities or voids with the material so that air bubbles do not subsequently form.

How is the casting process

First step.

We take the casting mold and thoroughly clean it - it should be dry and clean. All remnants of the material remaining after the preliminary procedures must be removed.

Second step.

If the need arises, we can slightly change the color of our composition: for this you just need to add one drop of paint to it, but in no case water (liquid plastics have a personal dislike for them).

Third step.

There is no need for degassing of our casting mix. This can be explained by the fact that plastic molding at home initially provides for the relative short duration of its "life". At the same time, in order to extract air bubbles from small-sized products, it is only necessary to manually remove them after pouring.

Fourth step.

Thoroughly mix all the necessary components and pour it into the template shape slowly, in a thin stream. This should be done until the mixture fills the entire volume and some more of the casting channel. And soon, when the degassing procedure takes place, the volume of this material will decrease significantly and become what we need.

And last tip: in order for the quality of the model to be high, it is necessary to cool the template gradually, slowly. So, follow all the instructions and you will succeed!