Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house. How to build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands: design, site preparation, construction work

Recently, the construction of aerated concrete houses has become quite popular. After signing all the necessary documents and choosing a suitable place, it will be possible to plan the site for construction. You will need to install a fence, mount lighting fixtures, prepare scaffolding. Specialists must carry out geodetic measurements, determine the location of the axes of the building. You should also determine the level of the floor base of the first floor. After that, external communications will need to be brought to the place of manufacture of the building.

Elements that will be needed for the construction of private houses from aerated concrete:

• sand;
• gas blocks;
• rebars;
• jack;
• bolts;
• adhesive mixture;
• metal corners;
• Bulgarian;
• acrylic based sealant;
• putty knife;
• plane;
• brush;
• Master OK;
• building level;
• dowels;
• nails.

The technology of building the foundation of a house made of aerated concrete

Building a house always starts with the foundation. Some believe that aerated concrete is a lightweight material, and therefore you can save on the basis. You should know that a quality foundation is one that is able to provide a permanent form to the house. The loads from the weight of a private house, which are transferred to the ground, are small, therefore they cannot become the main criterion for choosing a foundation. If you try to save on the foundation, this will result in the formation of cracks on the walls of the structure. The base should not be made of aerated concrete, you will need to use more durable materials.

The best foundation in this case will be a reinforced concrete slab structure, which is able to ensure uniform deformation from shrinkage. As a base for a private house, you can also use a strip foundation on a sand cushion. You can also make a columnar base, which is tied with a reinforced concrete belt.

Aerated concrete is unstable to bending loads. Such loads can be minimized by a monolithic base. Reinforcement of the structure is carried out with reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12 mm or more. The structure can be installed on any type of soil.

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Construction technology of a solid base from a reinforced concrete slab

The slab, which makes up a single structure with formwork, is laid under the entire area of ​​​​a private house. For the manufacture of such a foundation, at least 2 layers of reinforcement mesh should be used. A large area of ​​the reinforced concrete base plate can reduce the pressure on the ground. In the event of soil vibrations, the slab will move along with the ground, as a result, the safety of the building will be ensured.

The thickness of the reinforced concrete slab should be approximately 40 cm. Such a structure will not need to be deepened to the freezing depth. Be sure to arrange drainage around the base and lay the waterproofing material in two layers. After laying such material, it will be necessary to reinforce and fill the foundation slab. When the concrete mixture hardens, it will be necessary to tie the frame from the reinforcement and build the frame of the walls. The formwork is constructed in the form of a one-piece structure that captures the blind area. The distance between the reinforcing bars and should be less than 30 cm. To prevent swelling of the walls, the formwork will need to be securely fixed with leveling beams, a jack and tie bolts. To avoid the leakage of concrete mortar, a plastic film will need to be attached to the inside of the frame.

Concreting is carried out in layers of a maximum of 15 cm. The concrete solution will need to be leveled with a shovel and tamped by bayonet. In order for the mixture to be able to fill all the voids between the frame and the reinforcement, the frame must be tapped from the outside. Reinforced structures are concreted in one go. An unreinforced base can be poured intermittently. The formwork will need to be dismantled after the concrete mixture has dried and gained strength. The cavities that form between the walls of the pit and the base must be covered with soil.

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Phased construction of a strip base for a house made of aerated concrete

A strip of reinforced concrete that runs along the perimeter of the structure forms a solid frame that can ensure the stability of the building. To arrange a shallow strip foundation, a concrete slab will not need to be poured. Instead of a pit, you need to dig a trench 0.5 m deep around the perimeter of a private house. A pillow of sand 0.4 m deep is arranged in the trench, after which it is compacted. Next, a wooden frame is installed into which the reinforcement is laid. The rods are fastened, after which the concrete solution is poured.

The pouring of the concrete mix cannot be carried out on a frozen surface. All work should be carried out during the warm period of time. If the structure is arranged at negative temperatures, then the filling should be carried out continuously. In this case, it will be necessary to insulate the frame with heaters and heat the poured concrete mixture until the material sets. You can pour pre-heated concrete mortar. In this case, concreting should be carried out using special additives and the concrete mixture should be heated with a heat gun.

Gas blocks have a small specific gravity, so the depth of the foundation should be at least 0.5 m. If it is planned to equip the basement under the building, then a recessed strip base should be made.

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Step-by-step construction of the walls of a house made of aerated concrete: technology

Aerated concrete is a lightweight material, so it will not squeeze out the adhesive mixture. The walls of the structure can be laid out without technological interruptions. For laying the outer walls, blocks with a thickness of 37.5-40 cm should be used. Interior walls are constructed from gas blocks with a thickness of 25 cm or more. Gas blocks 10 cm thick are suitable for interior partitions.

Before laying out the first row of gas blocks, you will need to prepare the surface. Cut-off horizontal waterproofing should be performed. In this case, roofing material or other material in rolls is suitable as a material. You can also use a polymer-cement mixture based on dry materials. To level the base with a trowel, a mortar of cement and sand will need to be applied to the layer of waterproofing material. The evenness of the surface can be assessed using the building level.

The layout of the initial row of gas blocks must be given special attention.

The convenience of further construction work and the quality of the entire structure will depend on it. You can control the evenness of the laying by using a cord and a level. Aligning the blocks horizontally is done with a rubber mallet.

If there is a gap in the first row of masonry, an additional block should be installed. Cutting aerated concrete can be done with a special hacksaw, hand or electric saw. The sawn base can be leveled with a planer. The end parts of the additional blocks will need to be completely coated with an adhesive mixture.

To perform the laying of blocks, it is necessary to use an adhesive solution of the consistency of thick sour cream. The adhesive mixture is applied with a trowel or ladle with curved edges.

After application, the solution will need to be leveled with a spatula. After laying the initial row of gas blocks, you need to level the base of the masonry with a special planer. Dust and other dirt can be removed with a brush.

The alignment of the masonry is repeated after the laying of each row of gas blocks. Block level fluctuations can lead to the formation of local high stresses, as a result of which cracks may begin to appear. After the adhesive solution dries, it will not be possible to dismantle the wall - it can only be damaged.

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Construction of subsequent rows of gas blocks

Each row of masonry should start from one of the corners. To make the row even, you will need to install wooden planks. If the wall is long, then additionally it is necessary to mount intermediate beacons from gas blocks. Laying the rows should be done with the dressing of the blocks - the displacement of subsequent rows in relation to the previous ones. The offset must be at least 8 cm. The adhesive mixture that protrudes from the seams should not be rubbed, but removed with a trowel.

As necessary, gas blocks can be freed from the film so as not to be exposed to precipitation. The laid out wall elements can be protected with a film that remains from the unpacked gas blocks.

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How to make openings for the windows of a house from aerated concrete?

Window openings can be made in various ways.

1. For the construction of such a structure, metal corners can be used. These devices must be selected depending on the width of the opening. If the dimensions of the opening are less than 1.2 m, then corners 4x4 cm or 5x5 cm can be used. If the opening is more than 1.2 m, then corners 7.5x7.5 cm and 10x10 cm will do. To lay the corners, in the upper part of the last row gas blocks, you need to cut out special grooves with the help of a grinder. Corners will be installed in these grooves; in the process, an adhesive mixture must be used. Blocks are installed on the corners in which special grooves should be cut.
2. Another method should be used if the width of the opening is more than 1.2 m. In this case, blocks without a bearing part or belt gas blocks will be used. The thermal efficiency of the material will remain the same, the bearing part will be made of a cast reinforced concrete beam. The decorative part of the material will need to be laid in advance on a reinforced steel square.

To seal the seams, it is recommended to use grout. In most cases, during the laying of blocks, gaps will form between them, which were not smeared with an adhesive mixture. These gaps will need to be sealed both from the outside of the house and from the inside.

Outside, the wall should be embroidered with masonry adhesive or acrylic-based sealant using a construction gun. Trying to fill the gaps between the laid material to the maximum is pointless. Excess sealant can be removed with a rag or spatula. The frozen elements are embroidered with a special device of a semicircular shape. To perform grouting on the inner base of the wall, you will need to use an adhesive solution. Grouting should be done with a spatula. In the process of grouting, it is also necessary to putty the window slopes. The outer base of the wall is being prepared for painting. Before that, all chips and irregularities in the masonry must be removed.

Cellular concrete has been used for a long time, but with the development of technology, the scope is expanding. If earlier a house of aerated concrete was built infrequently, today this material is already used in 15-20% of new buildings. They build both dachas of temporary residence and capital houses. Everything is explained by the availability of the material at a price, good thermal performance, easy and fast installation.

Foundation for a house made of foam blocks

As you know, foam concrete blocks are lightweight. On the one hand, this is good: it is easier to work and the foundation for such a building is required with a lower bearing capacity, and, therefore, cheaper. But, on the other hand, if there are movements in the foundation, the walls, due to their low weight, cannot “press down” the processes, like a heavier brick, or compensate them like wood. Which means that the requirements for the foundation for an aerated concrete house are increased: even minor miscalculations lead to cracks, which are very expensive to “treat”. Therefore, it is better not to save on the project: it will turn out more expensive.

What type of foundation to use

What kind of foundations are made for a house of aerated concrete. On soils that are not prone to heaving, they usually do it. Depth - below the freezing level of the soil and nothing else. Due to its design, the reinforcement of the tape will compensate for all heaving loads that occur.

If the depth of soil freezing is 2 meters or more, the strip foundation becomes too expensive. In this case, when soils with normal bearing capacity lie at this level, they make aerated concrete under the house. In this case, a grillage is indispensable: it compensates for uneven movements that often occur on a pile foundation: one pile has risen more, the other less. Without a grillage, this will lead to cracks, so its device for walls made of this material is mandatory.

The most expensive, but also the most resistant to damage -. It is placed on soils with low bearing capacity - peat bogs, fine-grained loose sands. It may turn out that it is cheaper than a strip foundation, with a laying depth of more than 2 meters. In this case, the slab is more appropriate if, due to geological features, it is impossible to make a pile foundation.

Prefabricated foundations for this type of material are not recommended. Most of the problems arise with houses made of aerated concrete on foundations made of FBS, building blocks or bricks. Due to the fact that they themselves have a tendency to crack, in tandem with cellular concrete this turns into a serious problem: too many and often cracks occur. Therefore, prefabricated foundations do not use.

And once we pay attention to it, only a designer with the available results of geological research of the site can answer with a 100% guarantee what foundation is needed for a house made of aerated concrete.

With or without plinth

Another feature of aerated concrete is its high hygroscopicity. With increasing humidity, it loses its heat-insulating properties, and prolonged exposure to water can lead to partial destruction of the material. Therefore, a house made of aerated concrete is necessarily placed on the basement, making several layers of cut-off waterproofing. And this is in addition to all measures for waterproofing the foundation, which are also determined by geology and the level of groundwater.

Aerated concrete house: block laying

It all starts with preparations:

• Checking the levelness of the foundation. If there are deviations of more than 30 mm, they must be eliminated. If there are small humps, it is easier to cut them off and fill the holes with mortar. If the surface is too uneven, additional formwork is installed, the surface is poured with concrete and leveled. Just keep in mind that the minimum thickness of the concrete layer is at least 3 cm, and for leveling you need to either add plasticizers that improve spreading, or treat the solution with a concrete vibrator. Work can be continued when the concrete gains 50% strength, which is 7-9 days at a temperature of + 20 ° C, and 14-20 days at lower temperatures.
• Cut-off waterproofing is laid. First, it is smeared with bituminous mastic, rolled waterproofing is rolled on top. And better not ruberoid. It is, of course, cheap, but in the modern version it is ineffective and very short-lived. At the junction of the tapes, one overlaps the other by at least 15 cm.

At the preparatory stage, everything must be done with maximum diligence. The smoother the base, the easier the masonry will go. We have already written about the importance of waterproofing: if you want a house made of aerated concrete to be warm, make sure that it is dry.

Rules for laying aerated concrete blocks

On top of the cut-off waterproofing, laying of aerated concrete can begin. It is carried out according to the same rules as a brick: with a horizontal dressing of the rows. This means that the vertical seam of the lower block is overlapped by the body of the block lying on top. The wall looks more beautiful if the seam is in the middle of the block, but the minimum indent is 10 cm.

For laying gas blocks, special glue is used. That's what it's called - for aerated concrete. It is applied in a thin layer of 1-2 mm using a special tool - a carriage with a serrated edge. Why is it desirable to lay such a layer? Firstly, glue is expensive, and secondly, it is a cold bridge, since it has a much higher thermal conductivity than that of a gas block. Therefore, the specified thickness is optimal: it provides a strong docking and minimal heat loss.

Tool

For uniform laying of glue there are branded carriages. They are a box into which is loaded up to a bucket of solution. Do-it-yourself laying of aerated concrete blocks using a carriage is shown in the following video.

Carrying it up and down the walls is a dubious pleasure and is justified only with large volumes, when the entire bucket can be rolled over the wall at a time. Therefore, during the self-construction of an aerated concrete house, simpler devices are often used - small manual carriages (see photo). As you can see, it looks like a scoop and is easy to make with your own hands from a piece of galvanized steel. The width is equal to the width of your block (exactly up to a millimeter, it can be 1-2 mm less). Teeth are cut along the edge (you can use a grinder), a handle is attached. In principle, you can get by with a trowel and a large notched trowel, but it will not work so conveniently.

The second necessary tool is a saw. She also has a special one, but foam concrete is perfectly cut with an ordinary hand saw with a well-sharpened tooth.

Carriage and saw - basic tools

Still need a device for shtobleniye. According to the construction technology of aerated concrete, reinforcement is laid in every 4th row. Under these rods, strobes are made in the body of the block. There is a special tool for this - a cutting edge on the handle with an emphasis for the second hand. You can also do something similar yourself.

You also need devices to transfer blocks. There are blocks with cutouts under the arms, but they are more expensive, and then the voids will have to be sealed with mortar. To transfer blocks with even edges, there are special tongs that work due to gravity.

In addition to all this, you need a container for mixing glue, a paint bucket, a mallet - to align the blocks, a brush - to clean off dust, a building level, a cord, a set of skins or a special grater - to level surfaces. That's all the necessary tool. There is another interesting device - an angle that allows you to cut at a right angle. In the photo it is near the helmet, but if you wish, you can do without it.

Laying aerated concrete block

The technology of laying aerated concrete is simple: glue is applied more or less evenly on the lower surface. The recommended layer thickness is 1-2 mm. With this application using a carriage, there is no excess glue, and it is rarely squeezed out. Glue is also applied to the side surface of the adjacent block. This can be done with a trowel, spatula, or immediately with a carriage. The excess is also removed with the serrated side of the tool. When applying glue, try not to let it flow over the edges of the block: it is difficult to remove it from a white surface.

All of the above applies to laying on a special glue. Some, in order to save money, use a cement-sand mortar. You can’t lay it out in a thin layer, because there will be excess. They are removed with the edge of the tool, but the masonry still looks untidy. It is generally better not to talk about the thermal parameters of such a wall: the cold bridges are very wide.

Before installation, the block is dedusted: they take a brush and walk over all surfaces. If the weather is dry and hot, the block is sprayed with water. You can apply with a wide brush, you can - from a spray bottle. The cleaned and moistened block is lifted and placed on the glue, close to the already installed one. With the help of a mallet, knocking on the clean side surface of the installed block, the required joint thickness of 1.5-3 mm is achieved. Squeezing excess glue is removed with a spatula.

Now we take the level, and level the block in the vertical and horizontal surfaces: we knock on the corresponding places with a mallet. Efforts may be required serious. Extruded glue, if any, we select.

This operation is repeated over and over again. Simple but monotonous work. But you can build a house of aerated concrete with your own hands without any building skills. The main thing is to follow the technology.

Useful devices and useful refinement of masonry technology in the next video. People build a house of aerated concrete for themselves with their own hands, they do everything with high quality, but quickly using interesting devices. The solution is applied using a modified notched trowel. Small plates are attached to it from the sides, they do not allow the solution to drain outside the block. The design is obtained in the form of the letter "P", but with short "legs" and a wide "back", a spatula handle sticks out of the middle.

The structure is placed on a block, glue is thrown along the wide side. The edges or the handle are pulled along the block. At the same time, glue is squeezed out from under the teeth. It is immediately distributed evenly. Using the same device, glue is applied to the side, but not of the installed, but of the installed block. The laying speed with this method is high.

Very interesting device for transferring the block. This is a metal bar with two welded handles. Of course, each time it is screwed with two screws to the block, but it is more convenient to carry than just holding the edges. In general, a useful video, they just align the blocks “by eye”. This “technique” is hardly worth adopting, but otherwise the method of laying aerated concrete blocks in the video is very good.

Masonry of the first row of aerated concrete

With any construction, it is very important to correctly set the first row: we will then be guided by it when erecting walls. Therefore, we do everything very carefully, double-checking several times. We put the first row of aerated concrete blocks on a cement-sand mortar, all the rest on glue. Attention! The side surface is coated with glue: these seams should be normal - no more than 1-2 mm.

The corner blocks are laid out first. Very often, their outer edge protrudes beyond the base. Firstly, the base will then be further insulated and finished, and this will significantly increase its thickness. The wall hanging over the basement not only looks more organic, it also reduces the jamming of the basement, and first of all, its junction with the wall, and this is very important for an aerated concrete house.

First of all, using a laser plane builder or a water level, we find the highest corner of the base. We start laying with it. The whole point of the first row is to align the blocks in a horizontal plane by varying the thickness of the solution. At the preparation stage, the largest differences were eliminated, but the surface was still unlikely to become ideal. In order to make it easier to lay aerated concrete blocks in the future, the surface is leveled.

How to find the highest corner of the foundation, see the video.

Therefore, at the highest corner of the solution we put the minimum amount. Spread with a layer of 0.5-1 cm, level. We put the first block so that its outer edges protrude at least 50 cm beyond the base. As they wrote, this protrusion is not necessary, but it solves many problems, and, most importantly, it closes the joint with the base.

We take the level and, tapping with a mallet, align it in the horizontal and vertical planes. On the adjacent corner, we perform the same operation, only the height of the block is adjusted according to the first one, and for this we use the water level. To make it more convenient to work, the level flasks can be fixed on flat boards of the same thickness. By installing one flask on one corner block, the second one can adjust the height of the other.

We repeat the same operation on the remaining blocks. One subtlety: we transfer the level only from the first block. So the error will be less. After all the corner blocks are exposed (they are called lighthouses), a cord is pulled along their outer edge. Moreover, the cord marks the upper edge of the block and all the others are aligned along it. Pull on a self-tapping screw screwed into the block: it spins easily, but it holds up well. It is possible to fasten planks to the blocks into which self-tapping screws are screwed.

It is desirable to lay the masonry from two corners, moving to the middle. So there are more chances to avoid distortions, which then have to be leveled, tearing off already installed blocks.

Second and subsequent rows

Upon completion of laying the row, they take sandpaper, a planer, a building level and pass along the entire perimeter, removing too large height differences. This is an important point that allows you to spend a minimum of glue. But the minimum seam is not everything. If the height of each row is not equalized, places of local stresses form in the wall, which, under minimal loads, can cause cracks. Therefore, do not skip this step.

It is not very convenient to work with emery; there is a special grater for this purpose. She doesn't clog up like that. So, everything is aligned in the level. Then they take a brush and pass again along the perimeter, sweeping away the dust. This stage also cannot be skipped: the presence of dust significantly reduces the adhesion of the adhesive to the blocks.

All this in order to withstand the recommended adhesive layer of 1-2 mm. The geometry of even the best blocks still has a run-up. Let the difference be 1 mm, but with such an amount of glue it is significant. Therefore, everything is aligned to a complete match.

Hired crews often skip this stage and put glue up to 5 mm or more in violation of the technical process. But such houses turn out to be cold, and the consumption of expensive glue is huge. Average consumption of glue per cube:

• smooth blocks - 1.2 bags;
• with a groove and a ridge - 1 bag.

The laying of the second and subsequent rows of aerated concrete blocks also begins from the corner, only the corner block is set so that the seam is displaced. Now the adhesive composition is applied to all surfaces. The technology of laying aerated concrete block is described above.

Reinforcement of aerated concrete

To increase the degree of resistance of the building to the forces arising from heaving of the soil, longitudinal reinforcement of the walls is carried out. To do this, longitudinal grooves are made in the stacked row of blocks using a special device. For thick outer ones, two grooves are made for two bars; for jumpers up to 200 mm thick, one thread is laid. They should be at least 6 cm from the edge of the block. When chasing two grooves, it is more convenient to maintain a distance by laying the board: one strobe on one side, the second on the other.

When the grooves are ready, dust is swept out of them with a brush. Then they take reinforcement 8 mm, pre-lay out in prepared strobes. They guess so that solid rods lie in the corners: they are simply bent in the right place. The joints of the reinforcement should fall approximately in the middle of the block, but not in the corners of the building and not at the junction of the walls.

One bar is superimposed on another, laying side by side. The overlap should be 10-20 cm. So that the ends of the armatures do not stick out in the places of openings (door and window), small pieces can be bent by making small strobes under them.

When everything is laid out, we take out the bar, moisten the strobe with water and half fill it with glue or concrete mortar. And it is necessary to clean and moisten, otherwise the solution will not adhere to the material of the block and there will be no sense in the reinforcement. We sink the bar into the glue, then we pass the spatula along the grooves, removing the excess and leveling the layer.

Such reinforcement is carried out in the first row, and then in every fourth. With regular bandaging, even with uneven foundation settlement, the aerated concrete house will stand normally.

But this is not all reinforcement. Above the window and door block, as well as in the last row of the floor, more reinforcement elements are required, but already more serious ones, with 4 bars connected into a single system. There are special U-shaped blocks for this. They are placed as the last row under the ceiling of the second floor or under the Mauerlat of the roof. One side wall of the block is thick, the other is thinner. With a thick wall it is deployed and the street, with a thin wall - into the room.

A continuous reinforcing belt is knitted from 4 bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It is knitted according to the same principle as in the strip foundation (you can read it). An example of a reinforcing frame is in the video.

The finished elements are placed in the cavity of the block, poured. After the concrete has gained 50% strength, it is possible to lay floors or install a roof truss system.

Reinforcement of window openings of aerated concrete houses

According to technology, if a house made of aerated concrete has a window opening wider than 1.8 meters, the penultimate row of gas blocks is additionally reinforced. For this, two longitudinal strobes are made, which are at least 0.5 m longer than the window opening. For reinsurance, you can make more protrusions - up to 1 meter, and reinforce under each window opening.

The technology is similar to the wall one: two strobes into which the bar is placed are filled with glue or mortar. On top of the reinforcement, the last row of blocks is installed, and subsequently a window frame is installed on it.

The general principles of working with foam concrete blocks are described in the following video, and the principles of reinforcing window and door openings are also highlighted

How to winter without heating

It is often impossible to build a house from aerated concrete in one season, as a result, the box - with or without a roof - goes into the winter without heating. So that after wintering cracks are not found in the walls, a whole range of measures is needed:

• If the groundwater is high, it is necessary to make a drainage system before the onset of cold weather.
• Waterproofing and external insulation of the foundation and plinth (for the middle strip of XPS with a thickness of at least 100 mm).
• insulated
• Underfloor heating in the basement.

All these measures are designed to prevent freezing of the soil under the foundation and, in particular, under the basement floor. If the soil under the slab freezes, it will begin to bulge in the most unloaded place - in the middle. If the brick and other heavier materials simply press down on the bulge, then the gas silicate does not have enough mass. Therefore, all of the above measures are required.

In addition to them, in cold weather it is necessary to maintain a positive temperature in the basement - at least to heat a couple of stoves. If there is no way to organize heating, from autumn it is necessary to load fallen leaves into the basement. The layer is preferably large - at least 20 cm. In conjunction with thermal insulation, it will not allow the plate to freeze. Otherwise, it will still bulge, as a result, the walls will crack - under tensile loads, the gas silicate wall cracks not under the seams, like a brick one, but along the “body” of the block. It looks frightening, although with a normal foundation (if it remains intact), everything is not so scary and this may not happen again during heating in all subsequent seasons.

Many people, living in small apartments, dream of building their own home. Gradually accumulating financial resources, they come to the idea of ​​starting construction. This is a responsible decision. How to start the task? What material to give preference? We recommend building a house from a gas block. This will reduce the estimated cost, as well as greatly simplify the construction process. The gas block surpasses traditional brick and wood in its characteristics, ensuring the stability and durability of a private house.

Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house: construction features

We are preparing to build a house from aerated concrete blocks - we are studying the standards

Thinking about how to build a house from a gas block, you need to study the regulatory framework:

• provisions of state standards;
• building codes and regulations.

Regulatory documents contain technical information related to the construction of a gas block house:

• technical requirements for cellular concrete used as the main building material;
• requirements for the design and construction of walls of buildings from porous concrete blocks;
• characteristics of steel reinforcement used to increase the strength of gas-block walls;
• recommendations for the construction of the foundation of the building, ensuring the stability of the structure.

The standards also contain requirements for thermal insulation, noise protection, as well as a range of other issues that are inextricably linked with the construction of an aerated concrete house. Building houses with your own hands from aerated concrete requires the study of standards.

Gas-block house - advantages and disadvantages

Building a house from aerated concrete

Aerated concrete blocks, successfully competing with other building materials, have a number of advantages and, at the same time, have weaknesses. The properties of aerated concrete affect the construction technology, as well as the operational characteristics of an aerated concrete building.

Consider the main advantages of the material:

Thanks to this set of advantages, many developers carry out the construction of houses with their own hands from aerated concrete. Along with the advantages of gas blocks, there is a drawback - the ability of an unprotected cellular array to absorb moisture. The increased humidity of aerated concrete material causes the development of mold and is the cause of freezing.

Having studied the properties of the material, we can conclude that aerated concrete blocks are a good option for building a private house.

We plan to build a house of aerated concrete with our own hands - where to start work

Prior to the start of construction work, it is necessary to carry out geodetic studies and determine:

• soil characteristics;
• ground water level;
• freezing depth.

Based on the results of the survey, a building project is developed, documents are prepared, and a permit for construction work is issued. You can use a typical project for the construction of a private house or order the development of professional designers.

Do-it-yourself armored belt for aerated concrete

The standard project contains:

• floor plans with sections;
• foundation drawings;
• documentation for the truss structure;
• strength calculations;
• material consumption rates.

The project documentation also contains information on the implementation of finishing activities.

How to tie masonry when building a house with your own hands from aerated concrete

The construction of the walls of a gas-block building is carried out using the following compositions:

• cement mortar;
• special glue.

Before developers, the question arises, what is better to use for laying blocks. After all, each composition has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of using glue:

Disadvantages of the adhesive mixture:

• release of toxins during drying;
• increased, in comparison with cement mortar, cost.

Advantages of using a cement mixture:

• ease of preparation;
• affordable price.

Weak sides:

• height differences when laying blocks;
• increased consumption of the solution;
• the formation of cold bridges after solidification.

After analyzing the structure of aerated concrete, you can make the right decision - to use glue. After all, the blocks are characterized by increased porosity and hygroscopicity. The cellular array rapidly absorbs moisture, which is present in the cement mortar. As a result, the cement composition loses its working properties, worsening the strength of the masonry. The adhesive mixture is devoid of these disadvantages. It is applied in a thin layer, which helps to save the binder composition.

Concrete mix for aerated concrete

We build a house with our own hands from gas blocks - preparatory measures

The construction of a block structure is preceded by preparatory work:

• supply of electrical energy to the working area;
• preparation of a place for storage of gas blocks;
• organizing a warehouse for building materials and tools;
• delivery of equipment, inventory, building materials to the site;
• study of the design features of the future building;
• familiarization with the methods of conducting work;
• organization of safe working conditions at the site.

When performing preparatory work, the requirements of the project, as well as temperature conditions, should be taken into account. In the hot season, at temperatures above 25 ºC, water will be required to constantly wet the surface of the blocks.

We are going to build a house with our own hands from a gas block - we are preparing tools and equipment

The list of materials is limited to three positions.

Laying foam concrete blocks

Will be required:

• gas blocks;
• glue;
• fittings.

You also need a tool:

• drill, equipped with a mixing nozzle;
• container for preparing glue;
• "Bulgarian" or saw for metal for cutting reinforcement;
• wall chaser for making grooves for reinforcement;
• brush for cleaning strobes and surfaces from dust;
• rubber mallet, designed for upsetting blocks;
• aerated concrete planer or grater, accelerating surface leveling;
• a file that allows you to adjust the size of the block;
• flat and notched trowels for grouting and applying glue;
• cord, level and plumb line for quality control of masonry.

To eliminate minor irregularities, you will also need a sanding board.

Do-it-yourself construction of houses from aerated concrete - work technology

Foundation for a house made of aerated concrete

When building a house with your own hands from gas blocks, it is important to follow the following sequence of technological operations:

1. Determine the need for materials. Dividing the total area of ​​the walls (without openings) by the area of ​​the side surface of the block, we obtain the required amount of material, which should be multiplied by a safety factor of 1.05–1.1 and rounded up.
2. Select a base type. When choosing between a monolithic and tape base, it is worth giving preference to a tape base. It is necessary to dig a trench according to the marking, install the formwork, fill in the gravel pad, place the reinforcing cage in the formwork and pour it with concrete.
3. Build the basement of the building. The basement can be a continuation of the concrete foundation, rising above the zero mark by 0.5–0.6 m, or it can be built of brick laid in four rows on the waterproofed surface of the foundation base.
4. Build an aerated concrete box. Lay the first row of gas blocks, starting from the corners, check the horizontal level. Cut a groove in the center of the bottom row, clean it and lay the reinforcement. Lay the next rows on the adhesive mixture, reinforcing every 5 rows.
5. Reinforce masonry with reinforcement in the opening area. Reinforce the openings intended for the installation of window frames and door frames with a steel profile in the upper part. When installing the corners, provide a supporting surface on each side of the opening of at least 15 cm.
6. Build an armored belt, install an interfloor overlap. To fill the armored belt, fix the formwork elements at the upper level of the masonry, lay the reinforcing mesh and fill with concrete. Ceilings can be made of wood, as well as from aerated concrete slabs and hollow core panels.
7. Install the roof structure. To do this, assemble the truss truss, fix the crate, attach a waterproofing coating to it. It remains to mount the roofing, for which you can use many modern materials.

Aerated concrete house - the beginning of construction

At the final stage of construction work, window and door frames are installed, external cladding is performed, and internal improvement work is carried out.

We build a house with our own hands from aerated concrete - work schedule

The total duration of the construction cycle consists of the duration of the individual stages of work:

• the construction of the foundation will take 15–20 days, but it is advisable to start it a year before the start of construction, so that the concrete gains strength;
• the construction of a gas-block house box and the construction of internal partitions will take 3–6 weeks;
• the construction of the truss structure and the attachment of roofing material to it will require from 2 to 5 weeks;
• installation of doors and windows in openings, laying the floor and thermal insulation work will take up to one month;
• for the facade decoration of the foam block structure, it will take no more than a week, depending on the materials used;
• to dissolve communications inside the building and connect them quickly - within a period of 2 to 4 weeks;
• the duration of the interior decoration event depends on the requirements of the owners, as well as the characteristics of the finishing materials used.

With independent construction work, the construction of an aerated concrete building will take up to six months. By entrusting the construction work to professionals, you can finish the construction at an accelerated pace within two months. The duration of construction activities is determined by the complexity of the project being implemented, the level of mechanization, the degree of training and the number of construction personnel.

Conclusion

By building a house with your own hands from gas blocks, you can realize an old dream of your own hearth, as well as master the skills of performing construction work and save a lot of money. Aerated concrete blocks have increased performance characteristics that ensure stability, reliability, strength and durability of an aerated concrete building. It is worth considering how to decorate the house with your own hands from aerated concrete to give it an original look.

Recently, the construction of private houses quite often takes place with the participation of aerated concrete. And it is no coincidence: this material has numerous positive properties, including an acceptable cost. When building a house on your own, follow the rules below. This will help you get the best result.

Preparatory stage

Aerated concrete blocks are considered the best option for low-rise construction, their use does not require labor-intensive work. However, building standards and regulations should not be neglected.

If the construction site has already been selected, it is necessary to prepare project documentation, having assured it in local governments. Design can be done independently, or you can purchase ready-made drawings.

It is very important to carry out geodetic work or use ready-made data, which are reflected in the relevant documents. Such documents can be requested from the BTI.

When designing a future home, consider the layout of the rooms. Experts do not recommend placing children's rooms and bedrooms on the north side.

Prepare the construction site: temporary power supply, aerated concrete storage area, etc. Blocks should be stored packed in polyethylene film on pallets and under a canopy. Remove the film only from those blocks that you will need when working in the near future.

Aerated concrete blocks are usually sold in cubes. You can calculate the number of cubes you need as follows: multiply the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls by the thickness of the block - 0.3, as a result you will get blocks in cubes. For the construction of a basement and a main wall, a brick may also be needed, its quantity is calculated in a similar way.

Attention! Take care of the organization of delivery in advance. Not all firms deliver building materials to places remote from the city or to sites with poor access roads.

In addition to aerated concrete blocks, the list of materials for building a house includes:

• hand planer;
• paddle mixer for solution;
• hand saw or electric saw;
• pen and screw drills;
• hammer, including rubber;
• bit;
• toothed trowel and bucket-scraper for applying the solution;
• rack and water levels;
• brick (for basement);
• glue for aerated concrete blocks;
• wall chaser.

What type of foundation to choose?

With its low weight, aerated concrete blocks are a rather fragile material. Therefore, the construction of a light, shallow foundation is highly undesirable. In this case, the best solution would be to build a solid monolithic foundation of a tape type.

Casting a strip concrete foundation is a fairly simple way to create a foundation for an aerated concrete structure. It is erected directly at the construction site and can withstand a "solid" load. Depending on the characteristics of the soil layer and the weight of the future house, the strip foundation may differ in size and depth. For a one- or two-story house, a monolithic foundation is being erected with a depth of 180 cm and a width of 40 cm.

Before starting the construction of the base, it is necessary to clear and level the place. It is necessary to dig a hole under it around the entire perimeter. For marking, you can use U-shaped structures and a stretched cord. It is necessary to monitor the correctness of the geometric shape and align the angles. To dig a trench, use a shovel, if necessary - a jackhammer. Using an excavator with a narrow bucket will significantly speed up the work process.

The design of wooden formwork must be reliable and durable, since heavy concrete can simply destroy it. To strengthen it, you can use diagonal stops. Bearing bars, opposite to each other, are connected by wire.

The use of aerated concrete blocks provides for the creation of reinforcing belts from metal rods. The number of belts depends on the design of the building itself. One of them is placed in the concrete casting of the foundation. It is important to ensure that at the junction of the walls, the reinforcing rods bend and go behind each other. This results in a high level of structural reliability.

With impressive volumes of the tape base, it is quite justified to use a concrete mixer machine to pour concrete. If the volumes are not large, you can mix the solution yourself, adding frost-resistant additives if necessary. Concrete poured into the formwork should be compacted with wooden devices.

The poured concrete base should harden within a few weeks. To avoid evaporation of moisture, it is covered with a waterproofing material and periodically moistened with water. After the concrete has completely hardened, horizontal and vertical thermal insulation of the foundation is carried out.

Attention! In order for the marking of the foundation to be done correctly, it is necessary to measure the sides of not only the resulting perimeter, but also its diagonals.

How to fasten the blocks?

For fixing and cohesion of aerated concrete during masonry, an adhesive or cement mortar is used. Each of them has its pros and cons. Glue is very easy to prepare by adding water to the dry mixture. With it, you can get perfectly smooth walls and block joints. But at the same time, the adhesive solution releases toxins during its use, and its cost is quite high.

Cement mortar is made from cement and sand 1:3 with the addition of water. It is more difficult to work with, but it is easier to fix uneven areas with cement mortar than with glue. The quality of the solution is determined by its position on the trowel. If it does not freeze on it and does not leak, then the prepared composition has the correct consistency.

Start the block laying process from the highest corner of the foundation. Laying the first row is carried out on waterproofing. Any rolled bituminous material (for example, roofing material) can be used as a waterproofing material. The quality of the future design depends on the correct execution of the first row. First, corner blocks are laid, they are placed on all planes using a level. Cords are stretched between them, setting the level and direction of the masonry. It is recommended to control the horizontal laying again with the help of a cord and a level.

To ensure the horizontality of subsequent rows, install wooden orders and intermediate beacons. The laying of the rows is carried out with the dressing of the blocks due to their displacement relative to the previous ones (at least 8 cm).

If mortar protrudes from the seams, remove it with a trowel without rubbing. During rain, the blocks must be covered with a film. Lay floor slabs on the constructed walls, and if the house is two-story, after the slabs, start building the second floor.

Important! After completing the next row, trim the surface with a special planer, sweep away dust and remove pieces of aerated concrete. Repeat this procedure for each row.

Door and window openings

In the walls above the openings, use aerated concrete lintels, insulating them with mineral wool or other heat-insulating material. This prevents the formation of cold bridges at the junction and provides good sound insulation.

Fastening wooden frames of doors and windows is made with galvanized nails or anchors. Do not forget to add insulation to the gaps between the opening and the window or door frame. It will also not be superfluous to use mounting foam. Plaster the slopes of all openings. Installing a galvanized steel drain will protect the window sills of the outer wall. You can independently cut out a variety of arches from aerated concrete and give them the shape of columns and openings.

Important! A house built using aerated concrete blocks should be plastered from the outside and inside. This will help protect the walls and become the basis for subsequent finishing.

Roofing for a house made of aerated concrete

Roof construction begins with the installation of extreme rafters. After completing the installation, fix them with a ridge beam, and attach the rest of the rafters to it.

The next step is to raise the gables from aerated concrete blocks to the attic. In this case, be guided by the extreme rafters, as they are considered guides. Next, you need to overlay the Mauerlat with blocks from the inside. Fill the gaps between them with mounting foam. Nail the boards on the outside of the Mauerlat, in the future it is convenient to insulate the roof with their help.

In that part of the roof where adjacent gables converge, two slopes have one common support on the valley. The beam of the valley should rest against the Mauerlat. It is recommended to strengthen this beam at the bottom of the roof.

Then attach the crossbars to the opposite rafters. If this is difficult or not possible at all, install an additional beam. The work on the truss system is completed, now you can do the insulation. The best option in this case is mineral wool. Lay the mineral wool between the rafters on the filing of the boards. You can lay several layers of insulation, but its thickness should ultimately be 15-20 mm.

The insulation can be closed with a vapor-permeable membrane, which does not allow the penetration of moisture from the outside. You can fix it with a stapler, and then with battens, on which it is necessary to install the roof sheathing with an allowable interval of 45-50 mm. Then proceed to cover the surface with roofing material (for example, ondulin). Many experts recommend using ondulin, as it is lightweight and resistant to various mechanical damage. The process of erecting the roof should be completed by covering the vapor-tight film from the inside of the attic.

Aerated concrete today is a worthy representative of modern building materials, perfect for both construction and repair of private sector buildings.

Video: Building a house from aerated concrete - instructions

How to build a house from round logs correctly?

Before we learn how to build an aerated concrete house with our own hands, let's talk about aerated concrete itself, its properties and characteristics.

aerated concrete- building material, which is one of the varieties of cellular concrete. This material is an artificial stone, throughout the entire volume of which spherical pores are evenly distributed, having a size of 1-3 mm and not communicating with each other. In appearance, aerated concrete resembles stone foam.

In the production of aerated concrete, quartz sand, cement and various special blowing agents are used. Also, in the manufacture of aerated concrete, lime, gypsum or industrial waste can be added to the mixture, among which slag and ash can be distinguished.

In a mixture mixed with water, gas formation occurs due to the interaction of a gas-forming agent, which can be finely dispersed metallic aluminum, and a lime or alkaline cement slurry. The result of this chemical reaction is hydrogen gas, which foams calcium aluminates and cement slurry.

When mixing the solution, it is not very convenient to use powdered aluminum, since it is very dusty. For this reason, aluminum suspensions and pastes often act as a specialized blowing agent.

The production of aerated concrete takes place according to the following cycle. All dry ingredients are mixed, then mixed with water and after that the solution is poured into a mold where the gasifier and calcium hydroxide react, which releases hydrogen, which inflates the mixture. Puffing up like dough, the mixture increases in volume. After the cement mortar has set a little, the monolith is removed from the mold and cut into blanks of panels, slabs and blocks. Further, all blanks are treated in an autoclave with water vapor in order to give them final strength, or they are dried in drying chambers. Aerated concrete can be divided according to the finishing technology into non-autoclave and autoclave.

To begin with, it is necessary to note the unique properties of cellular concrete, which combines the best properties of wood and stone.

Aerated concrete products have a number of advantages, among which are:

1. Houses built of aerated concrete cost about a third less than houses made of stone or brick. This becomes possible due to the fact that gas blocks have a lower price, and such characteristics of gas blocks as size, shape and weight allow significant savings on consumables. For example, the load on the foundation is reduced due to the light weight of aerated concrete walls, which saves money already at the stage of laying the foundation of the house. Also, when building the walls of the house, you can significantly save on a small consumption of mortar, and in the process of facing the house, you do not need to perform plastering, which is a costly and rather laborious process.
2. Aerated concrete products have high thermal insulation performance. Aerated concrete is approximately 85-90% air, making it an excellent heat-insulating material. The use of gas blocks in the construction will significantly save on heating the house and completely abandon the use of auxiliary thermal insulation.
3. Fire safety and soundproofing. are one of the leaders in terms of sound insulation performance and fire resistance. This building material itself is non-combustible and is able to prevent the spread of fire. Due to the excellent soundproofing characteristics, aerated concrete blocks can be successfully used in construction in urbanized megacities. Gas blocks have long been one of the main structural and composite materials in the construction of residential buildings.
4. Environmental friendliness and vapor permeability. Aerated concrete products can, like wood, breathe, so that moisture will not accumulate in the house. But at the same time, gas blocks, unlike wood, have a longer service life, do not burn or rot, and also provide the premises of the house with fresh air. It should be noted that, in terms of environmental properties, aerated concrete products can be put on a par with wooden structures.
5. geometry accuracy. Due to the high accuracy of aerated concrete products, it is possible to build very even walls, which in turn greatly facilitates the work of builders.

Like any other building material, gas blocks also have disadvantages:

1. Low compressive strength. Based on the practice of using gas blocks, over time, some blocks may become covered with cracks that will go along the blocks themselves, and not along the seams of the masonry. In principle, this fact does not affect the strength of the house in any way, but no one can say what will happen to the blocks in a few years. In addition, when constructing partitions from gas blocks with masonry reinforcement, vertical cracks may appear on some partitions crossing several blocks, which will affect at least the aesthetics of the walls.
2. High water absorption. This feature of gas blocks can significantly complicate the finishing work, since the absorption of water from the putty applied to the wall can result in it not sticking to the wall surface. To reduce the water absorption of the walls, it is necessary to cover them with any penetrating primer, preferably in two layers.
3. The fragility of aerated concrete blocks. Gas blocks are a rather fragile material. Often there are situations when cracks appear on them.
4. Various types of fasteners are held very poorly in aerated concrete blocks, since aerated concrete products do not have high strength. Therefore, when installing window and door blocks, they are held not on mounting anchors, but on mounting foam. But the self-tapping screws hold very well in the aerated concrete wall, but at the same time they can oxidize over time and require replacement.

Which blocks are used for which structures?

1. Fences and partitions. Gas blocks designed for these needs weigh less than blocks that are used for load-bearing walls. The width of the block can vary from 5 to 24 cm, and the side faces are often made in a tongue-and-groove form. Blocks larger than 24 cm wide are not equipped with grips, which makes them more difficult to carry.

2. Single layer exterior walls. Solid blocks with a density of D350, D400 or D500 and a width of 30 to 48 cm are best suited for such walls. The height of such blocks can be 20 or 25 cm, and the length is 59.9, 60 or 62.5 cm. Very often on such blocks you can find the tongue-and-groove structure of the end sides, which are narrower. Thanks to this, during the laying process using an adhesive solution, they can be easily joined without vertical seams. From such blocks it is possible to build walls that have a heat transfer resistance of 2.67-3.31, which is in full compliance with the existing standards.

3. Internal load-bearing walls, as well as three-layer and two-layer external walls, can be built from blocks whose thickness is 20 - 36.5 cm. ends, it is possible to carry out laying without vertical seams. Such walls must be insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

4. Tray blocks that have a U-section can be used for jumpers. Such blocks have a density class D400-D500, a length of 49.9-59.9 cm, a width of 17.5-40 cm and a height of 19.9-24.9 cm. These blocks are ready for filling with concrete and reinforcement, they are used for lintel sheathing and as formwork. Thanks to these blocks, the walls will acquire uniformity, which will reduce the risk of cracks and facilitate plastering.

Using these blocks in single-layer walls, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation with a thickness of about 4 cm at the places where the reinforcement is installed. Before filling the blocks with concrete, be sure to install them on a support made of boards, so that the depth of support on the wall is approximately 20-25 cm. In addition, these blocks can be used as formwork for pillars that strengthen attic attic walls.

Foundation for aerated concrete house

To build a house of aerated concrete with your own hands, you need to start from the foundation. You can often hear that due to the light weight of aerated concrete blocks, you can save on the foundation. But there is also a theory that it is possible to build a house from aerated concrete blocks only if there is a plinth made of ordinary dense concrete, which significantly increases costs. But in fact, both of these statements are not true. Only one thing is certain - the foundation can be considered reliable if it can guarantee the integrity of the entire structure. Yes, the load on the ground that a small aerated concrete building creates is not so great, but the role of the foundation cannot be underestimated because of this. It is impossible to build a foundation from ordinary aerated concrete, since a more durable material must be used for the foundation.

Experts believe that the best foundation for an aerated concrete house is a reinforced concrete slab, which is able to provide uniform load distribution, which in turn minimizes shrinkage deformations. But in practice, most often for the construction of houses from aerated concrete, monolithic foundations of the tape type or combined are used - columnar, having a monolithic belt of reinforced concrete. These types of foundations fully satisfy all requirements.

This type of foundation is located under the entire area of ​​the building, including even the blind area. The double layer of reinforcing mesh gives it sufficient strength. In this case, the load on the ground will be minimal, due to the fact that the reinforced concrete slab has a large area. In addition, freezing and subsequent thawing of the soil does not affect, since the plate moves synchronously with the soil, thereby ensuring the integrity of the entire structure.

According to calculations, the optimal thickness of a monolithic foundation slab should be about 40 cm, and 10 cm of the slab should fall on the underground part, and 30 cm on the aboveground. This type of foundation does not need to be buried to the depth of freezing, but at the same time, one should not forget about drainage in the adjacent area. Also, on a thin concrete layer (footing), waterproofing should be laid in two layers. Then you need to lay the reinforcement and pour it all with concrete, so that in the end you get a foundation slab. When the concrete hardens, it will be necessary to prepare a solid reinforcing cage for future formwork, which should cover the blind area. Between the bars there should be a distance of no more than 30 cm. The formwork should be rigidly fixed using leveling beams, jacks and tie bolts for this. Inside the formwork wall, it is necessary to line it with roofing material or a thick plastic film in advance. This is necessary so that the concrete does not flow out.

It is necessary to lay the concrete mass in layers of 15 cm. Each layer must be rammed with a bayonet using a bayonet shovel and leveled with a shovel. The bayonet helps to evenly distribute the concrete mixture and expel all air bubbles from it. Also, for the same purpose, it will be necessary to tap the formwork from the outside. It is not recommended to make long time intervals between layers, since a reinforced foundation, unlike a simple one that is not reinforced with reinforcement, should be concreted in one go. After the concrete has become strong enough, it will be possible to remove the formwork and then backfill with soil. Now your foundation is ready.

A monolithic reinforced concrete structure, which forms a closed loop, must ensure the stability of the structure. For construction, you need to dig a trench about half a meter deep around the perimeter of the entire future building. At the bottom of the trench, it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion, whose thickness should be approximately 0.4-0.5 m, and carefully compact it. This pillow is needed to prevent freezing and drainage of groundwater. After that, it is necessary to build a formwork in which the reinforcement must be laid and interconnected. Next, you can start pouring the concrete mixture.

A shallow foundation can be poured only in the warm season, when the soil is completely thawed. If there is a need to perform these works in the cold season, then you need to fill continuously and use special additives. With another method of pouring, it is necessary to insulate the formwork and heat the concrete during the solidification process. Concrete can be heated using heaters and heat guns.

Due to the fact that aerated concrete is a building material with low weight, when erecting buildings from this material, it is possible to use a strip shallow foundation with a depth of about 0.5 m. .

This type of foundation consists of pillars that are installed where there is a high load, at the intersection of walls and always at the corners of the building. You also need to remember that between the pillars there should not be a distance of more than 2.5 m. Such pillars are most often constructed from reinforced concrete, concrete, brick and stone (buta). For the construction of some temporary structure, you can use poles made of metal pipes that are susceptible to corrosion. Such a foundation should be laid to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m, that is, a little deeper than the freezing of the soil. When installing, make sure that the poles are installed strictly vertically.

The columnar foundation is considered the most economical, but it cannot be used for the construction of buildings on loose soils and soils prone to slipping. Also, it is not allowed to use it where there are significant differences in height. If a house made of aerated concrete will have a basement, basement or garage, then this foundation will be inappropriate here.

It doesn’t matter what type of foundation you will use to build a house of aerated concrete with your own hands, in any case, it is imperative to do waterproofing, since aerated concrete is a hygroscopic material that absorbs moisture very well, and this can reduce the life of the building. When building a basement or basement, it is imperative to waterproof and insulate the walls. In this case, you can use aerated concrete blocks having a density of at least 700 kg per cubic meter, while making the strapping with reinforcement to increase strength.

In order to carry out the correct laying of walls from aerated concrete blocks, it is necessary to purchase the following tools:

• a grater with a coarse-grained skin;
• coarse grater with metal teeth;
• square to cut at a right angle;
• mixer blade;
• manual wall chaser;
• rubber mallet;
• a saw with carbide teeth;
• special buckets designed for applying the solution.

It is recommended to start laying gas blocks from the corners of the house, moving further along the entire perimeter in rows. First you need to make waterproofing in the form of 1-2 layers of roofing material laid on the foundation, and only then lay the first row, all blocks of which should be laid on a cement-sand mortar in a 3: 1 ratio, whose thickness should not exceed 3 cm. laying the first row with maximum attention, since if you make a flat horizontal surface when laying, then this will make it as easy as possible for yourself to lay the subsequent laying of the remaining rows. After the first row has been laid, it will be necessary to remove all irregularities with a sanding board or planer. Carefully monitor the height of the rows from the very beginning using laser coordinators, vertical and horizontal levels or a stretched mooring line.

If a gap remains in the first row, which turns out to be less than the length of one block, then you will have to start manufacturing an additional block right in the place. Before installing the additional block in the masonry, it is necessary to completely coat with glue all its end surfaces. The installation of each block must be controlled using a mooring cord and a level, and the position of the block can be adjusted using a rubber mallet.

After laying each subsequent row, it is necessary to level the surface of the masonry with a grater. Make sure that there are no level differences between adjacent blocks, as in the future, because of this, local vertical cracks may form in the masonry in those places where there will be a concentration of stress. Dust generated during the work must be brushed off.

Before laying, all blocks should be thoroughly cleaned from dirt and dust, and in winter from ice and snow. Blocks that have chipped corners or edges should be set aside. Then these blocks can be machined with some tool (a chamfering planer, saw or hand saw) and used later in interior walls or when laying piers.

Glue preparation

In the manufacture of aerated concrete blocks, the geometric accuracy of +/-1.5-2 mm is maintained. Masonry should be done using an adhesive solution based on a dry mixture consisting of cement, sand, hydrophobic, plasticizing and water-retaining additives. The seam should have a thickness of no more than 2-5 mm. Also, masonry can be carried out on a light mortar, with a joint thickness of about 8-10 mm.

In addition, masonry can also be done on a cement-sand mortar. In this case, the thickness of the horizontal joint should be on average 12 mm (10 to 15 mm) and the thickness of the vertical joints should be on average 10 mm (8 to 15 mm). Remember that the use of masonry mortars leads to a decrease in the heat transfer resistance of the walls. If masonry work will be carried out in dry weather, the blocks must be pre-moistened before laying.

The mortar to be used for laying walls must be prepared on the spot from a binder aggregate and various additives or from factory-made dry mixes. The adhesive solution must be prepared in accordance with the instructions printed on the bag, and the mortar must be prepared according to the instruction CH290.

Take a small container (a plastic bucket is best) and fill it with the required amount of water. Then, stirring constantly, you need to add the dry mixture. Five minutes after mixing, the solution will need to be mixed again. In the process of performing work, the solution must be periodically mixed so that its consistency remains homogeneous. In cold weather it is necessary to use antifreeze additives for the adhesive mixture.

Laying on glue subsequent rows

The finished glue (solution) must be unloaded into some bucket and, using a special container (scoop or trowel), distributed along the entire length of the wall, leveling the bed with a notched edge of the trowel. Next, the block is lowered from above onto the adhesive (solution), but at the same time, more than 5 mm of horizontal movement should not be allowed. All glue that squeezes out must be immediately collected with a scraper until it seizes. Blocks should be straightened by tamping with a rubber mallet or by rocking. Make sure that all seams are completely filled with glue.

Do not forget to follow the dressing rules when laying, that is, the vertical seams of the next row must be placed with a slight offset - about 8-12 cm.

In order to perform masonry work efficiently, it is recommended to use various devices that can facilitate the work. For example, at the corners of the building, you can install wooden slats-orders. To do this, you need to install vertical slats so that they clearly indicate the corners of the masonry. Then they will need to apply risks that will correspond to the height of the rows and pull a mooring cord between the slats.

When performing masonry, it is necessary to decide in advance what you will do when laying with an end tongue-and-groove surface. If you plan to plaster the walls on both sides, then in this case the vertical seam must be performed without filling with glue, that is, dry, as this will increase the thermal uniformity of the masonry. And in the event that there is no wet finish on at least one side, it is necessary to at least partially fill the vertical seams so that the masonry is not blown through.

Each subsequent block must be installed on the glue and then aligned with the mooring cord. The installed block must be leveled with a mallet. When the row of masonry comes to an end, you will need an additional block, the size of which is easy to determine by measuring on the spot. After sawing, the additional block must be smeared on both sides with glue and installed in place.

Pledge of building strength - laying with reinforcement

Masonry reinforcement is a very important point. In order to implement it, the master will need the following materials and tools:

• a narrow brush with which dust will be removed from the strobe;
• corrugated bars (reinforcement) having a diameter of 8-10 mm;
• wall chaser (electric or manual).

Reinforcement should be made in every third row. To do this, using a wall chaser, it is necessary to make two channels in the stacked blocks, the width of which should be 4 cm and remove all dust from them. Channels should be located no closer than 5-6 cm from the edge of the block. Then, one or two rods must be laid in these channels and filled with a cement-sand mortar or adhesive mixture flush with the surface of the gas block.

In addition, reinforcement must be done under the windows. In this case, the reinforcement bars must be inserted on both sides into adjacent blocks by 20 cm or even more. The upper door and window lintels are most often made of the same aerated concrete, and to be more precise, from U-shaped structures, into which about five reinforcing bars are fastened together and poured with concrete. Before installing the jumpers, it is worth making wooden supports so that they do not hang in the air, and then, after the concrete has dried, the supports can be dismantled. Remember that the roof truss system and floor slabs must be securely supported, therefore, on each floor, it is necessary to mount the load-bearing walls around the entire perimeter.