Kitchen countertop made of ceramic tiles: practical and beautiful. Practical and original kitchen countertop made of tiles Do-it-yourself tiled countertop

The advantages of a tiled countertop are undeniable! Since the tabletop is made of natural or artificial marble Not everyone can afford it, let’s focus on making and tiling the countertops.

A countertop lined with tiles will look great in the kitchen - as a work surface, in the bathroom - combined with the tiles on the walls and our beautiful new sink. You can use tiles to lay out a tabletop, a window sill, etc. But if coffee table or a bedside table can be tiled without much difficulty, then the countertop in the kitchen or bathroom will be exposed to moisture, high temperatures, and chemical reagents included in detergents.

Stages of tiling a countertop

Let's divide the work into several stages.

Making a decision

This is still the simplest stage. I would like to note that the tiles laid on the countertop should be in harmony with the apron in the kitchen and the tiles laid either on the walls or on the floor in the bathroom. Therefore, it is better to immediately decide on the main tile.

Definitely, in the kitchen it is porcelain tiles. Mainly because of its durability and practicality. The strength of porcelain stoneware is not inferior to natural stone. Porcelain tiles are distinguished by one of the highest wear resistance, low water absorption - about 0.05%, high resistance to oil, fats, alkaline and acidic reagents that are part of modern detergents.

The only thing you need to consider when choosing porcelain tiles for the kitchen is the type of surface. Embossed or textured surface: subsequently, dirt may accumulate and make it difficult to clean the surface. Polished and semi-polished, it seems to me, will not cause any special problems. Although you need to choose what is more cute. I will not specifically dwell on mosaics, since this is a separate topic, and we will definitely consider it in the near future. I will say one thing: there are many types of porcelain tiles that imitate mosaics or small tiles (7×7; 10×10). If you have no experience working with tiles or mosaics, these options seem to be the best if you really want a mosaic countertop. This is especially true in small kitchens. If the kitchen is large or medium-sized, it is quite possible to cover the countertop and backsplash with tiles 30×30 or large sizes(up to a giant 60x60). A table top lined with the same material will look very original. working area kitchens and island countertops or kitchen table.

For a countertop in a bathroom, you can use a regular one. facing tiles, with which the walls are lined, or the floor.

So, we have decided on the choice of the type of tile, we have roughly sketched out a plan, still only in our thoughts. We can safely go shopping and look for tiles to our liking. A little later we will decide on the number of tiles we need to buy and all the accompanying materials.

Making a base for a future tabletop
Below we will look at three ways to make a base for a tabletop tile. Each of them has the right to life.

Let's take three sections of cabinet furniture as a basis:

• sink cabinet size 500×560×820
• work cabinet with drawers 500Х560Х820
• working two-door cabinet size 600Х560Х820

The cabinets will be placed in a row. The length of the section will be 1600 mm, width - 560 mm.

For work we need

• (cutting machine) with a disc for tiles (for dry cutting)
• rasp - for processing the edges of cut tiles
• - 60 cm
• 12 cm
• high-hold tile adhesive
• crosses for tiles 2.5-3 mm
• rags
• silicone sealant
• wood protective compound
• primer or latex
• wood glue
• liquid glass + quartz sand or waterproofing compound
• stainless steel self-tapping screws 3.5-3.8 cm within 200-400 pieces
• felt-tip pen
• pencil
• mixer
• wood drill 5-6 mm
• bucket for solution

The rest is as we go along.

For the base of the tabletop we will need two sheets of plywood 1500X1500X20 grade FSF or FB made of softwood.

• FSF - waterproof plywood glued with phenolic resin. Moisture-resistant plywood can be used outdoors.
• FB - bakelized waterproof plywood (impregnated with bakelite varnish). This moisture resistant plywood Can be used in hot humid climates and even in sea water.

We will attach the plywood in at least two layers with overlapping edges. First, all parts of the cut plywood are properly treated with impregnation (at least 2 times) and moisture. protective composition for wood or bitumen mastic. We cut plywood taking into account that the fibers should run along the section in all layers. On all sides, the plywood should protrude 3-5 cm from the walls of the section. The joints of the plywood strips should not fall on the hole that we will cut under the sink and, preferably, should overlap the cabinets at the point of their joining.

We cut the plywood approximately as shown in the figure using a jigsaw. We first measure the inner diameter of the sink and cut a hole for it on both layers of plywood, adjusting the transverse ties of the sink cabinet body.

All parts of the structure are treated with moisture-proof impregnation for wood. I don’t mention a specific brand, since each region has its own manufacturers. We treat the edges of all parts of the plywood with a brush especially carefully. I repeat: all the edges of the plywood, including the places where you cut and cut out the holes for the sink! This is very important, since moisture, which can subsequently get into unprotected areas of the plywood, can cause delamination with all the ensuing consequences.

The kitchen section must be level when attaching the plywood sheets; The housings are tied together with special ties.

Our design will be quite heavy, so don’t skimp on the legs for the cases.

We close the kitchen section securely plastic film to avoid damage to facades and other parts. If we have a stove (gas or electric) next to the section, then we should calculate the height of its location based on the height of our tabletop (820 mm), adding to it the height adjustable legs(40 mm, two layers of plywood), the thickness of the tile backing layer (10 mm) and the thickness of the tile with adhesive backing (10 mm). Total: 880 mm. Thus, if necessary, we check the possibility of setting the slab to this level.

Let me summarize: we have parts of plywood covered for two layers of the future table top, the plywood is thoroughly impregnated with a protective compound, dried and processed liquid waterproofing. WITH special attention We have approached the processing of side edges, both in the cutting areas and along the entire perimeter of the sheets. Thus, we are confident that moisture that may accidentally get on the plywood will not cause delamination.

We fasten the first layer of plywood especially securely. Our design must be motionless. We choose stainless steel screws, 3.5-3.8 cm long. We attach the first layer of plywood to the side ties of the furniture cabinets from below, 3-4 screws on each side. We attract the side walls (they are highlighted in red in the diagram) to the first layer of the tabletop using metal corners self-tapping screws 1.5-1.8 cm.

Apply wood glue to the top layer of plywood. It could be wood glue (not very good option), moisture-resistant PVA (Profi) or more expensive brands of wood adhesives. There is only one requirement for glue - moisture resistance. The glue is applied to the surface in a zigzag manner, the second layer of plywood is pressed and tightened with self-tapping screws. To prevent the caps from sticking out, you must first countersink the places where the screws are attached with a drill. We place self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the sheets with a pitch of 15 cm, as well as deep into the sheets with the same pitch. We attach a strip of plywood 4 cm wide to the edges that will be lined with self-tapping screws. We cut the top layer of plywood using any disc on an angle grinder (the depth of the notches is 5-7 mm).

Using a stapler, we attach a painting mesh with a cell pitch of 0.5-2 cm to the upper side of the second layer of plywood. We place the mesh on the side edges of the sheets and fasten it tightly. The mesh must be tensioned and secured evenly and firmly.

The edges of the plywood can be additionally covered with masking tape (not to be confused with masking tape), burlap and coated tile adhesive with subsequent processing liquid glass or coating waterproofing. We pass the joints between the countertop and the wall silicone sealant or coating waterproofing.

In principle, the countertop is ready for cladding with porcelain stoneware. All we have to do is carefully treat it with a waterproofing compound: you can choose ready-made option or prefer the composition “liquid glass + latex + water + fine sand” (the recipe is given in the article “”), dry and veneer. This is the first option mentioned above.

Let's consider two options:

• the tiles are laid on a moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheet (GVL V) or on a DSP sheet (a more reliable method)
• the tiles are laid on a cement layer, which will certainly ensure the reliability and durability of our structure

Making a contact layer for tiles

The first option is quite simple. A cut sheet of GVLV or DSP with sawings for washing is treated on the inside with a primer. A layer of tile adhesive (the same one we purchased for the tiles) is applied to the top layer of plywood with a notched trowel. A sheet of GVL or DSP is laid on the layer, pressed down with a mallet and fastened with self-tapping screws to the top layer of plywood. The joints between the wall and the contact layer are treated with silicone sealant. A strip of GVL or DSP is attached to the outer side edges with self-tapping screws. The joints between the strip and the side edge are filled with silicone sealant, or covered with tile adhesive, and then coated with liquid glass. On the surface that will be directly tiled, it is necessary to attach a painting mesh and cover it with a waterproofing compound. Here all layers of the tabletop and side edges are already processed.

That's all, after drying the surface is ready for covering.

Hand on heart, I’ll say that throughout my entire career as a tiler, I made countertops this way.

However, while collecting material for this article, I came across a completely new (for me, at least) technology, which turned out to be “good old technology”. Moreover, in the West, where tile countertops are in fashion, it has received well-deserved recognition.

So, the second option. We have two layers of plywood fastened together and securely attached to the kitchen section. The side edges are treated with a waterproofing compound, a painting mesh is fixed to the surface, on top of which everything is treated with a waterproofing compound.

We set up beacons. We need to make a cement pad 1-1.5 cm high. For beacons we will use 1.5x3 cm slats. We install the first slat and fasten it to the side edge of the tabletop so that it rises 1.5 cm above the plywood surface. We fasten it it is strictly level, maintaining the horizontal. The slats will subsequently be removed. This way there is no need to attach them a large number self-tapping screws, 2-3 pieces are enough. We attach the second rail flat along the surface. Using a level, we check the horizontal line between the first and second beacon slats. Next, we place lighthouse slats on the sides of the table top. We put them like the first one, fastening them with self-tapping screws. You can use gypsum profiles and stands as beacons.

In the place where I drank under the sink to a piece of plywood that remained as a result of drinking from reverse side, fasten two slats. It is inserted into the hole under the sink and secured using self-tapping screws that are screwed into the plywood through the slats.

Now we prepare the solution. What to choose as a cement pad for our countertop? It could be tile adhesive, cement-sand mortar, manufactured in a factory (since dry fractionated sand is used in its production), cement-sand mortar with the addition of some glue (for more comfortable work). The only thing I would like to advise is: when mixing the solution in water, add 1 part latex to 2-3 parts water. We will get a very durable and practically waterproof coating.

The resulting solution is applied with a trowel and leveled with a 60 cm spatula. installed beacons. When the mortar begins to set, we unscrew the slats, having previously cut the contours along the hole for the sink with a spatula, and take out a piece of plywood along with part of the mortar. We trim the edges. Smooth the surface with a spatula or metal trowel. In order to obtain a more even surface, you can lightly moisten it with a spray bottle. Once the solution has set (after about 4-6 hours for a cement-sand mixture, 12 hours when using tile adhesive), remove the lighthouse slats. We putty the edge with a solution and add the solution to the locations of our beacons. Level it to the level with the main mortar layer and smooth it. We leave our countertop for 2-3 days. At this time, you can start purchasing tiles and related materials.

Laying tiles

We will consider a simple cladding option: straight laying, seam to seam.

Let's take a tile measuring 10x10 cm as a basis. This is not the simplest of possible options, but you and I are not afraid of difficulties?

The next stage of our work will be marking the countertop for cladding. We measure the width of the tabletop from both edges. If we did everything correctly, then we should get 61 cm. Mark two middle points (30.5 cm) along the edges and connect them with a line. We get a line in the center of the tabletop. In the same way, we mark the center in width: 160 + 2 × 5 (our tolerance at the edges) = 170: 2 = 85 cm. Similarly, we set aside two points and connect them with a line.

As a result, we get two perpendicular lines running down the center of our tabletop. They will serve as a guide for us in further work on the cladding.

Our next steps

• We attach slats to the bottom of the tabletop, which we used as beacons. They will serve as a support for covering the ends of the tabletop. We fix the corner corner to the end of the tabletop with self-tapping screws. outer profile. We carefully prime the cement layer and wait for the primer to dry.
• We dilute the glue according to the instructions. To ensure strength, you can add a primer to the mixing water (1 part primer to 3 parts water).
• We carry out the cladding from the “red corner”, i.e. from those sides that will be visible. We will start from the outer sides of the tabletop, which we will cover with full-size tiles. Using a notched trowel, apply a layer of glue to the cement layer.
• We lay the first tile on the corner of the countertop. Next, lay out the first rows, observing the angle
  90°, checking the outer line with a level. Also, do not forget to check the horizontal plane in all rows using a level. Internal sides the tiles should be at the same distance from the lines we have cut off.

• A small nuance that we should think about before we start laying out the first rows: how will we veneer the end parts of our tabletop? There are several options to solve this problem. Let's consider one of them. The tile extends approximately one centimeter. The trimmed end tile or decorative border is glued at a right angle, with the factory side up. The size of the seam is adjusted with crosses and subsequently filled with grout. The underside of the undercut is hidden in profile. This is the easiest way to cover the end of a tabletop. To simplify the work, when laying the first row, we immediately set the end tiles. We observe the seams in the same way as on the main masonry. You can replace the end trim with a border. You can move the end tile up and attach the main masonry to it. It's just the way you like it.

• Can be mounted external corner, using an external corner tile profile. In this case, I advise you to place it under the top tile.
• Another option is to cut the tiles at a 45° angle. Please note that this is sufficient difficult work and, without special skills and additional equipment, it is better to do it in the two ways described above. If you decide to file, do not forget to sand the edges so that they are not sharp. It is possible to cover the end of the tabletop with shaped tiles or ceramic plinths. I’m not afraid to repeat myself: everyone here is their own creator and artist.

Further installation should not cause any particular difficulties. We lay the tiles in rows - it is best to keep “long” rows. Don’t forget to insert crosses into the seams and remove excess mortar. We control the plane: when applying a level, there should be no gaps between it and the tile.

When cutting tiles under a sink, you can allow an error within 0.5 cm. The most important thing is
the sink should rest on the lined surface along the entire plane. Note that porcelain stoneware is quite easy to cut with a lever tile cutter and very difficult to cut with an angle grinder with a diamond blade. In the case of sawing tiles under the hole for the sink, it is possible to make a template from cardboard and further mark it according to it. More details on how to lay tiles are described in the article “”.

So, we place the cut tiles against the walls and at the junction of the countertop with the refrigerator, cabinets, stove, etc. In the future, these joints can be closed using a plinth, having previously coated the seams with silicone sealant.

We rub the seams

Let's look at this stage of work in a little more detail. Our countertop, as we said above, will be subject to extreme loads - moisture, grease, chemical reagents, detergents and cleaning agents. That is why it is necessary to approach filling the seams very carefully. Regular tile grout simply won't work here. The fact is that limestone filler is afraid of acids. Remember the experience from the chemistry course high school: When a drop of vinegar was applied to a piece of chalk, the limestone reacted.

Most suitable materials for these purposes - grouts based on epoxy resin. They are resistant to chlorinated water, oils, fats and acids, as well as high temperatures.

The materials in this group are quite widely represented by Western and domestic producers. These are typically two-component formulations consisting of a modified epoxy resin (component 1) and fillers, pigments and hardener (component 2).

Preparation of the material consists of mechanical (preferably using a low-speed mixer) mixing of two components. When choosing a grout, you need to pay attention to the recommended joint width. Often, epoxy grouts are recommended for wide (from 8 mm) joints. In our case, compositions for a seam width of 2-12 mm are suitable. Let me make a reservation right away that working with epoxy grouts is quite difficult, since the mass turns out to be thick, and it is not very convenient to apply it in the usual way, rubbing it into the tile joints with a rubber or plastic spatula.

Moreover, it is necessary to remove the remaining epoxy grout from the tiles in a timely manner, otherwise it will be impossible to do this later.

One way to make grout filling easier is to protect the tile with masking tape, leaving the grout lines cleaned, and use a syringe to fill the grout lines. The container is filled with grouting compound, and the required nozzle is put on the syringe. After which the grout is squeezed into the seam. The seam surface is formed by a piece of curved electrical cable, or back side rubber spatula. Next, the protective tape is removed. According to the instructions, after 30-60 minutes, the remaining grout is soaked in water until it becomes an emulsion, after which it is washed off with a damp sponge. The sponge is washed frequently clean water. After another 2-3 hours, the entire surface of the tile is washed clean.

Alternative epoxy grout- combined epoxy-cement grout. It is easier to use. The disadvantage of this material: limited choice of colors.

Please note that epoxy and cement-epoxy materials are expensive. A package of 2-2.5 kg will cost you from 1,500 rubles.

Another option for grouting joints is cement-based grouting compounds intended for floors. In these grout compounds, the soft limestone aggregate is replaced with fine quartz. That is, the material itself is resistant to chemical reagents and has increased abrasion resistance. After applying such grout, after three days it is necessary to treat the seams with a strengthening water-repellent composition twice, with an interval of 12-24 hours. It is best to use a watercolor brush for these purposes. The glaze of the tile is sealed with masking tape. The resulting seams will be resistant to all surprises.

We fill the seam between the wall and the countertop tiles with silicone sealant.

If we decide to veneer the apron, the work procedure is described in detail in the article “”. The only thing is that it would be better to grout the seams of the countertop tiles together with grouting the apron. We fill the seam between the vertical and horizontal cladding using the technology described above. Possible options with ceramic or plastic skirting board. The seams of the apron can be grouted with the same compound, or you can use regular, cheaper grout.

When installing the sink in place, do not forget to coat the joint with silicone sealant.

With some ingenuity, we can turn your old kitchen furniture into a masterpiece. Some of the facades can also be tiled. You just need to secure it plasterboard sheet or the remains of our GVL to the facade. It won't be much work. It is enough to make a countertop from tiles and replace the facades. Using the same principle, you can make a countertop in the bathroom, veneer a table in a room, or in a country house. Even according to the most conservative estimates, savings (compared to the cost of purchasing and installing countertops made of natural or artificial stone) will be - at least 2 times.

My special thanks to my Canadian colleague Yuri Litvichko for his help in writing the article and advice.

The kitchen cannot do without an element that is so popular now – the countertop. Many materials are used to make this product. Today, a very popular solution is tiling. This surface looks very attractive, and it is very practical to use. The material perfectly withstands all the loads that act on the tabletop.

Material selection

For the kitchen, it is better to use porcelain stoneware rather than standard tiles. Its strength will ensure high performance, comparable to the properties of stone.

Porcelain tiles have excellent properties in terms of use in the kitchen. When choosing it, it is important to pay attention to its surface. If you settle on a textured finish, it will cause dirt to accumulate. Therefore, it is better to use samples with a flat surface.

• The polished surface is pleasant to the touch and easy to clean.
• Relief surface requires frequent care, but thanks to this solution you can get a unique design.

You can also use mosaics to create a tabletop with your own hands. This option looks especially good in small room. For larger area It is worth using a size of 30x30 cm or more.

The color should be selected based on the interior design, as well as color design kitchen set and an apron. Examples can be seen in the photo. You can learn more about the procedure from the video provided.

Creating the Foundation

If you have furniture, you need to do the following:

First, the plywood needs to be cut so that it hangs a little. Considering the standard tabletop size is 60 cm, do not forget about a tolerance of 2 cm on each side and 1 cm on the front.

When the cutting is completed, the material can be processed protective agent in several layers, especially the ends.

Securing the Foundation

We fix the first layer with self-tapping screws to the cabinets so that their caps are recessed. Next we apply glue to the surface, you can use PVA.

Preparation of the solution

It's time to prepare the solution. You can purchase a special one or make a cement-sand one. A little PVA is sometimes added to the latter.

To prepare the solution you will need cement and four times more sand. First, a certain volume of water is poured into the container. Then a mixture of cement and sand is gradually poured in in a ratio of 1 to 4. In this case, the composition must be constantly mixed. This is convenient to do with a drill with a mixer attachment. When the consistency of sour cream is achieved, you can stop adding powder. Then the composition should be allowed to stand for about five minutes. Then before use it must be stirred again.

Application of the solution

Using a trowel, it is necessary to apply the solution to the prepared base, distributing it evenly. For this it is better to use wide spatula with teeth. It will allow you to get better surface for adhesion, while saving solution. You need to create a flat surface.

Laying tiles

We will consider the easiest way to do it yourself - seam to seam. First we make markings to understand what will happen in the end.

We start laying from the corner that is best visible. Apply the solution, focusing on the marked lines. In places where porcelain tiles need to be trimmed, they should be cut with a tile cutter rather than a grinder.

When the tiles are completely laid, you need to take care of the ends.

Decorating the ends of the tabletop

1. The end tiles can be laid with an overlap, or the horizontal ones should be placed with an overhang, which will correspond to the thickness of the porcelain stoneware, in order to then substitute the tiles at the ends.
2. You can cut the material at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a special tool, which is not always possible.

Seam processing

Even if you lay the material without joints, they will still be present, so grouting will be needed. It is better to use a composition based on epoxy resin. This material has good durability, considering the operating conditions in the kitchen.

You can use or ready-made composition, or a dry mixture, which is prepared similarly to tile adhesive - mixed with water.

• For grouting, it is better to take a rubber spatula, which will definitely not damage the finishing material.
• To protect adjacent surfaces, masking tape will come in handy, as it leaves no marks behind and adheres easily.
• It is better to remove excess grout with a sponge after 24 hours.

Original solution - excellent repair

If you create a countertop in the kitchen from tiles, you can get a non-standard interior look. At the same time, it will be no less practical than using a regular countertop. Thus, the design created by yourself will be harmonious and comfortable.

The kitchen is exactly the place where each of us spends at least several hours a day. And every good housewife certainly dreams of a beautiful dining room, with an original kitchen furniture. So, achieving your dream is not so difficult - you just need to make sure that the tile countertop is made with your own hands!

A countertop is to the kitchen what a sofa is to the living room.

It is stupid to underestimate the role of the countertop, as every experienced housewife will say. And she will be right, because you often have to cook using this convenient invention of mankind.

Almost all dishes begin to be “born” here, and the countertop becomes the main assistant and multifunctional highlight of your kitchen.

By using ceramic tiles for tiling, you will soon experience the benefits of your kitchen table. Well, at least the costs for such a countertop will be much less than for a similar one, but from natural stone(there are countertops and ). As a work surface for the kitchen, this will be what you need. You can quickly and easily wipe, place hot food stands on top of the tiles, and enjoy the beautiful colors you chose. You have the opportunity to take advantage different options(it can be rectangular or square or some other shape).

A product tiled with tiles will “revive” your kitchen; you can also highlight the beauty of your countertop by tiling, for example, a window sill. However, if other surfaces that are located far from water (in the room, and not in the kitchen or bathroom) will serve you for a long time, then if there is constant moisture on the kitchen countertop, you will be provided with the harmful effects of water (if the tiles are often covered with water). Chemical reagents, like high temperature, will also not please your countertop. But even despite such disadvantages, it will serve you for a long time and, believe me, not even 5 or 10 years.

Many owners of this kitchen decor They simply adore a tile countertop and do not replace it with any other. Exactly tiled option choose for your favorite kitchen in private homes or luxury apartments. The ceramic tiles in the dining room really look quite original. Well, housewives unanimously claim that it is not only convenient to wash, but also, in principle, quite difficult to damage. We have already talked about design and coloring, and the ability to create compositions to suit your taste is also one of the main advantages.

Disadvantages and features - everyone needs to know!

When purchasing any material from which your countertop will be made, you should know not only its advantages, but also the disadvantages of the future product. To make it easier to understand the features, you need to take advantage of the experience and advice of specialists.

1. Ceramic countertops have some cleaning issues (the grout between the tiles is not as easy to clean). At the same time, we eliminate the shortcoming. Numerous seams are filled with a special resin (epoxy), and then solving the problem of washing a ceramic countertop becomes much easier.
2. Don't buy the most ordinary one cheap tiles for the kitchen. It is for the dining room that it is advisable to choose impact-resistant and fairly wide tiles that will last you a long time.
3. Find out from the seller what characteristics your tile has (they vary).
4. Do not attempt to use a knife or meat tenderizer directly on the surface of the tile. Be sure to use a board.
5. Cleaning should be done without using metal jaws, it is better to use foam sponges.

DIY ceramic tile countertop

Those who do not want to call a specialist can try to make their own countertops from ceramic tiles. The cost of a countertop lined with ceramic tiles can vary greatly - it will be cheaper if the tiles are domestic, and more expensive if they are foreign - for example, Italian or Spanish.

So, a do-it-yourself tile kitchen countertop is a reality in our time. And it's not difficult to do. The main thing is to correctly calculate the distance for laying, have a special putty for the seams, and measure the corners. You should also choose the right ceramic tiles, which can be wall or tabletop. It is best to purchase porcelain tiles. It is both durable and thicker.

You can also buy clinker or terracotta tiles for cladding. The choice in this case is entirely yours. You will need to tile the built-in furniture with ready-made structures from chipboard or plasterboard. It is convenient to use a ceramic countertop if it is located next to hob or a sink.

Well, there’s one more big plus for those who value originality - using ceramic tiles to cover your countertops, you can quite easily use them to cover your walls, tables, etc. You can also experiment using the irreplaceable one and with mosaics. In this case different color solutions tiles can create a unique pattern.

Installation of tile countertops - step-by-step system

So, to the installation of a kitchen countertop from ordinary material(chipboard or MDF) must be approached wisely. And then even the most ordinary board will turn into the highlight of your kitchen and a real work of art. We propose to consider a high-quality and affordable option for everyone - to diversify our countertops with tiles. As we have already mentioned, it will not allow moisture to pass through, will not absorb odors, and is quite easy to clean and install. So, we buy tiles and prepare the surface.

The kitchen is a place that receives a lot of attention as it plays an important role in the life of every family. Its design and functionality are taken care of with the utmost care.

One of the most important functional elements of the kitchen is the work surface. But, in addition to functionality, the work surface plays an important role in the design of the kitchen, creating its image and style. Depending on the size of the room and design, the work surface may have different shapes and be made of different materials.

There are two ways to organize your work surface: buy a ready-made countertop or make a wonderful kitchen countertop from ceramic tiles with your own hands.

Ready-made countertops are made from the following materials:

From chipboard with plastic coating (postforming);

Made from artificial stone;

Made from natural stone.

Ceramic tile work surface

As an alternative to store-bought countertops, you can make your own work surface.

Work surface as a functional element of the kitchen

The work surface, tabletop, can be a separate element of the kitchen. It can, on its own, independently, regardless of the presence of other furniture, fully fulfill its purpose.

The tabletop can also be presented as the upper part furniture cabinets. Most often in practice we come across the second option - these are our traditional kitchens in which the top of the cabinets is also a work surface.

Characteristics of working surfaces made of ceramic tiles

The decision to make a work surface from ceramic tiles can be made for various reasons:

Design solution;

Standard tabletop sizes do not fit;

The need to use existing building materials;

The opportunity to realize your creative abilities.

The result is an individual product that will fully comply with the wishes of the owner.

Countertops with a ceramic tile surface have the following qualities:

Durable, wear- and moisture-resistant;

Easy to care for, easy to clean;

It’s easy to choose the color and pattern that suits your design;

Affordable price;

Durability;

Possibility to use non-format or cut tiles to create a mosaic.

Working surface made of tiles you can give the desired shapes and sizes, which can easily fit even into non-standard or small rooms.

Ergonomics - work surface height

When choosing a kitchen, the question arises what the height of the kitchen countertop should be.

Working surface height – important point to create comfortable conditions

The comfort and well-being of the housewife who will be working in the kitchen depends on the height of its placement. A kitchen is not only an object of design, but also an object of application of ergonomics, because... it can be considered as a workplace.

For different types work in the kitchen: washing dishes, cutting food, kneading dough, cooking, turns out to be necessary different heights working surface. This is important so that work in the kitchen is less tiring and does not bring discomfort, because the greatest load and fatigue for a person occurs when working while standing. And in order to make cooking and table setting as comfortable as possible, you need to take care of the correct height of the working surface.

The appropriate height of the table top can be determined by the following method: while standing, bend your arm at the elbow, the comfortable zone for working will be within 15 centimeters below elbow level

In the area where the sink is located, the height should be greatest. The optimal height is 85-95 cm, for tall people maybe 100cm. This height of the sink helps correct position body, helps to work with a straight back and keep your arms bent at the elbows at a right angle. In this position it is much more comfortable to work and not get tired. What about washing food and dishes, if not? dishwasher, takes up almost half the time spent in the kitchen. For cooking and frying, a stove height of 80-85 cm is suitable.

The procedure for making a countertop from tiles with your own hands

First, a drawing of the countertop is made. Its main dimensions and configuration are determined. The places where the inserts for the sink and hob will be located are marked.

Frame installation, materials

We determine the height relative to the floor, beat off the horizontal level.

Horizontal mounting strip

A mounting plate is installed on it. The frame is mounted in accordance with the plan.

Metal frame for a separately placed work surface

Tile marking

The seams between the tiles can be sealed with silicone sealant.

The work surface can function as an independent element

The tabletop frame can be metal or wood.

Wooden frame and base for plasterboard tiles

The basis for laying tiles can be OSB board, gypsum fiber board or moisture-resistant plasterboard.

You can also use laminated chipboard or an old countertop as a base. In this case, the surface must be thoroughly sanded and degreased.

Laying tiles

The tiles are laid with tile adhesive. The tiles can also be laid with glue for floor coverings or liquid nails.

Option for laying tiles at an angle

The layout of the tiles must be done in advance. It is better to choose such tile sizes and distances between kitchen equipment so that the tiles do not need to be cut. For standard size kitchen countertops good tiles will do 60x60 cm. Then you can get an almost seamless surface that will imitate stone. But you can make a countertop from any size of tile, it depends on the design.

First, solid tiles were laid out on the surface. Then the tiles will be laid with trimming

Before gluing, the tiles must be laid out on the surface, taking into account necessary stitches and gaps to make sure that it is laid out in the right way. It is better to start laying out tiles on a straight surface from the center. If the working surface is angular, then it is better to start from the corner.

A porcelain stoneware countertop is a base, the upper surface of which is lined with porcelain stoneware tiles with minimal joints between the tiles. The end is finished with the same material, or supplemented with another material that is suitable in texture, color and quality.

Granite countertops have become popular because of their practicality and durability, but they come at a high price.

How to make such a tabletop? What should you pay attention to when preparing the base and choosing tiles? What are the disadvantages and advantages of porcelain stoneware surfaces? Let's consider the answers to these and a number of other questions.

A cheaper alternative to granite countertops is porcelain tile countertops.

You can order the tiling of a kitchen work surface from a master tiler, or if you have some skills and tools, you can actually do it yourself.

Of all finishing materials ceramic tiles are perhaps the oldest and most familiar.

The secret to the success of making a porcelain stoneware countertop depends on the quality of the preparation of the base. It is important to make the entire structure as rigid as possible to avoid movement and deformation during operation.

It's no secret that the main quality of a kitchen is maximum convenience and functionality.

1. Preparing the base

Anything will do – wood, metal, concrete, plastic.The easiest way to veneer concrete is that porcelain tiles are simply laid on its surface. The disadvantage of a concrete base is its weight.

For an apartment in multi-storey building it is not applicable.

The metal base is treated with appropriate primers, a steel mesh is stretched, onto which a suitable tile adhesive is applied. The treated surface is dried. The selected tile is laid on top.

Apply the mixture in sections, otherwise after 15 minutes it will become covered with a film and lose its elasticity.

Plastic kitchen worktops use MDF or chipboard as the base. The structures made from these materials are quite durable and allow you to put heavy porcelain stoneware on top.The preparation of the plastic plane can be carried out in two ways - by attaching a mesh and in a more simplified way- direct gluing of tiles with silicone.

Check the levelness of each tile using a short level and make adjustments while the adhesive is still wet.

For wooden surfaces, due to the nature of wood to “play” from changes in temperature and humidity, it is especially important to fix the rigidity of the base. The strength of the structure is achieved by fastening two layers of thick birch plywood.

You can additionally lay a sheet of DSP on top.

All wooden parts are treated with protective impregnations against mold and fungi to prevent wood rotting in conditions of high humidity.

1. Laying. Grout.

Economic effect

With all its advantages, strength, decorativeness, ease of manufacture- This inexpensive type cladding. The cost of its production is comparable to the price of a PVC countertop with much more positive aesthetic and performance qualities.

A tile countertop can be wiped down easily and quickly.

Having selected porcelain tiles that imitate natural stone(marble, granite), you can get an excellent coating that is not inferior to natural and even exceeds it in terms of strength. In terms of price, a countertop made of porcelain stoneware will cost tens of times less than a similar stone one.

You can also place coasters for hot dishes on top of the tiles.

Artificial stone, used to create monolithic surfaces, is also inferior to porcelain stoneware in strength, and is much higher in cost.

The tile is not afraid of physical impact, is easy to clean and has a pleasant appearance.

A working surface made of porcelain stoneware can be tiled with your own hands, even from remnants of tiles left over from the renovation of other rooms. The main thing is to group the materials well according to the color, texture and thickness of the tiles.

If you create such a tabletop yourself, it will become a source of pride for the whole family.

Flaws

The weak point is the tile seams. Over time, grout may lose its freshness and acquire a dirty tint. This defect can only be corrected by replacing the grout.

When choosing a material for a tile countertop, consider all the pros and cons of this material.

Porcelain stoneware is a very durable material and difficult to cut. Used for cutting tiles diamond blade. To cut porcelain tiles efficiently, you need to have skill.

Porcelain tiles are very durable and are not inferior in their properties to natural stone.

Technical and operational advantages

Requirements for a kitchen countertop: waterproof, easy to clean surface, aesthetically pleasing.

The currently available options for color tile effects allow you to create absolutely any solution in your kitchen.

Porcelain tiles – perfect coverage. Specifications(strength, moisture and heat resistance) make it an indispensable finishing material.

The color design of the tabletop can be completely different.

Any type of porcelain tile is suitable. When choosing it, you should pay attention to the smoothness of the tiles. At uneven surface caring for it is difficult, particles food products during processing they will get stuck in the relief pattern.

Do not use ribbed tiles on horizontal surfaces.

Porcelain stoneware surface in kitchen design

A significant place is allocated to the countertop in any kitchen; this interior detail affects the overall mood, and sometimes sets the style for the entire interior. On the other hand, it is massive and solid, and is made for a long period.

The end result should fit into the overall color scheme of the kitchen.

The walls can be repainted kitchen fronts replace, but changing a countertop is a troublesome and expensive task, so you need to approach the choice of material for its manufacture especially carefully from the very beginning.

The size of the tiles must be selected based on the size of the room.

Wood-like finishing will bring warmth and coziness to the interior. Clinker-like tiles will add brutality, the severity of knightly times and the feeling of a medieval castle.

The tabletop can be monotonous, have a simple pattern of multi-colored tiles, for example, stripes of different colors.

Covering the kitchen work surface with expensive polished tiles, combined with wooden facades cabinets, will bring a touch of luxury and nobility.

To avoid mistakes, read the rules and procedure for installing tiles.

Experiment with porcelain stoneware in your kitchen, you will certainly be pleased with the results.

These countertops are distinguished by their practicality and excellent appearance.