Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on the floor. Laying tiles with your own hands: step-by-step instructions from preparing the surface to grouting the joints Installing tiles

Assortment construction stores pleases with constantly emerging new products designed to fulfill modern finishes housing. But be that as it may, ceramic tiles do not lose their popularity at all, and remain one of the most popular materials for cladding floors and walls in rooms with specific operating conditions - with high humidity, with direct contact with water on surfaces, with a pronounced abrasive load , with the need for frequent wet cleaning using detergents. According to such criteria, this includes bathrooms, toilets and kitchens, hallways and corridors, balconies and loggias, entrance groups and some utility rooms.

In a word, in any house or apartment there will definitely be such a finish. wide application. That’s why the question is so relevant: how difficult is the installation? ceramic tiles with your own hands, is it worth inviting a master, or is it quite possible to get by? on our own? We cannot agree with the opinion of the authors of individual articles who claim that tiling is a very simple task. Such finishing requires strict adherence to technology, knowledge of many nuances, a certain skill and increased accuracy. However, it doesn’t seem impossible either - many homeowners have successfully completed finishing work on one's own. We hope that this article will help the portal visitor understand the basics of ceramic tile laying technology, carefully assess their capabilities and make the right decision.

Tile - durable and practical material. For a long time, tiles have been the most popular material for finishing rooms, especially bathrooms and kitchens. The requirements for finishing materials under these conditions are very stringent. After all, there are constant temperature changes, high humidity. That's why tiles has found its practical application in the repair and decoration of these premises.

What are tiles?

Given finishing material are plates made of fired ceramics. It is noteworthy that the first examples of ceramic tiles were found in Mesopotamia. In size and shape it resembled a mosaic and at that time, 2-3 millennium BC, it was used to decorate temples and palaces.

Today, several tile production methods are common:

Casting, when the clay mass is poured into molds and then fired. The method is used extremely rarely, because the tiles are not uniform, and their edges are uneven;
Cutting when sawing occurs natural stone on the tiles. This is a fairly expensive production method and final product turns out to be of high cost;
Extruding or stretching and cutting clay mass using special equipment;
Pressing is the most common modern method manufacturing. Finished goods They are durable and have a good appearance.

Photo: bathroom tiled

On modern construction market The choice of tiles is very diverse. Tiles vary in color, shape and texture. By combining different layouts, you can create beautiful artistic masterpieces even with your own hands.

Advantages of tiles:

Durable and shock-resistant;
Easy to care for surface;
Not damaged by water;
Does not deform over time;
Not afraid of exposure to steam or hot fat;
Resistant to chemicals;

How are tiles different from ceramic tiles?

The technologies for their production are similar, but the tiles are stronger and of better quality (the price changes accordingly). The fact is that ceramics are simply fired in kilns at high temperature, A The tiles are also covered with glaze.

The tiles have a glossy surface

Thus, tiles have the following advantages: more beautiful appearance, glossy surface, high strength and durability, good performance. In addition, tile is an environmentally friendly and resistant to harmful influences material.

Tile laying technology

Laying this tile option is classic solution when renovating many premises. But it requires certain knowledge and consideration of some nuances.

Required tools and materials:

Plaster spatula;
Ruler;
Chisel and hammer (for cutting tiles);
Glass cutter (for cutting glazed tiles);
Level;
Weight and spatula;

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is important to clean the surface from dirt and dust. Then level the surface and prime it. It is a mistake to believe that irregularities can be closed by using more solution. A high-quality installation result will only be achieved if the surface is perfectly leveled.

Leveling the surface cement mortar

Surface priming

If so, then it is important to make a screed first. For baths and toilets, waterproofing is of no small importance. It would be best to lay on a concrete base.

Preparing markings and stops

Before laying, stops for the first row are also performed. Installation will be carried out on them. If the tile is placed on the wall, then it must be fixed at the bottom wooden slats so that the first row can rest on it.

Checking the level and marking

The edge line of the first row of tiles is simply drawn on the floor. starts from the far corner.

Laying solid tiles

The solution is applied to the wall using a special spatula with rectangular teeth.

Applying tile adhesive

First, the tile is leaned against a support, and then carefully placed on the mortar. It is not necessary to press down; it is enough to rotate it a little along the axis to achieve uniform distribution of the solution.

Laying tiles on mortar

Important! It will be difficult to remove the tiles from the mortar after installation. Therefore, you must initially try to position it correctly. After installation, you can only move the tiles slightly to the sides.

It is important to maintain the same distance between tiles

The correct installation is checked using a level. You can use a hammer to press the tiles into the mortar. Place crosses at the corners of the tiles, which can maintain the correct, uniform gap between the tiles.
Usually, the distance between the tiles is made equal to 0.5 cm.

After the first row is laid, you need to wait a little for the solution to set. It is important to remember that if there is a break between laying rows, then the mortar that is located at the edges of the tile must be removed. Otherwise it will dry out and the work will be complicated.

Trimming tiles

When all the space where solid tiles could be used has been laid out, it is necessary to begin cutting and installing the missing fragments. You can cut tiles using glass cutter or tile cutter, in extreme cases, cutting with Bulgarians.

Manual tile cutter

Important!
Markings must be made taking into account gaps on all sides.

Seam jointing

After completely laying the tiles, you must wait completely dry mortar, and then start jointing the seams. To do this, remove all the crosses from the gaps. Can be used as a grout different means: cement, silicone or epoxy based. It is advisable to select the grout according to the color of the tile.

Grout preparation

Applying grout

Important! If the tiles are glazed, then grouting can be done immediately after the mortar has dried. If it is matte, then the tile must be pre-moistened before grouting.

Before starting jointing, the surface must be completely cleaned, and the seams between the tiles must also be cleaned. Ideally, vacuuming is recommended. Next, using a rubber spatula, apply grout over the seam and press it inwards. Place a putty knife over the seam and run along it, removing excess. The seam should be level with the tile. After the fugue has completely dried, its residues can be easily removed from the surface using a regular rag and water.

Installation of decorative profiles

To give the room its best appearance, as well as for corner protection, decorative profiles are installed. Corner profiles also carry protective function. When installing corners, first one side of the corner is made the same as the other. Then the end surfaces are aligned to the plane.

Decorative profiles for tiles

A profile is applied to the other side, which is pressed against the tiles of the bottom row. Both edges should be flush with the tile planes. There may be a gap between the profile and the tile, but not wider than the width of the seam.

Installation of ebb tides

This is especially true where, after tiling the walls, there remains a gap between the wall and the bathroom. In such a situation, low tide will help. The gap between the wall and the bathtub must be filled to the level of the top edge. Then apply the grout and lay the tiles.

Installing flashings between the bathtub and the tiles on the wall

If you know the technology, you can lay the tiles yourself. But it is necessary to take into account that there are different ones that can also be mastered. The main thing is to clearly understand what you want to get in the end.

Laying tiles with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. If you can’t afford to pay the cost of these works, but a beautiful bathroom and kitchen never leave your dreams, then with the right approach, you can do everything yourself.

If you take into account all our advice, practice, you will definitely get good at it, and you will never be interested in the cost of laying tiles. You yourself can transform your room with the help of this practical, durable, beautiful material.

We calculate the required amount of material

So, for this stage you will need: a level (plumb), a tape measure, paper and a pen. Calculations must be carried out very carefully.

The intended location of the tile, be it a wall or floor, is measured horizontally and vertically. According to the result obtained and the estimated size of the tile, the required number of tiles is calculated. Special attention should be paid to the corners. If the corners are crooked, you will additionally need several partial tiles to avoid gaps.

Next, you need to sketch out the layout of the tiles and choose the type of cladding. Possible options Laying tiles are: diagonal laying, “joint to joint” and laying in a run. On at this stage you also need to determine the availability and required quantity decorative elements: friezes, borders, slabs with drawings.

In order not to be mistaken in the quantity of tiles purchased, you can draw up a mini-diagram on paper on an appropriate scale, which will clearly indicate the location of both the tiles themselves and the decor. After this, you can only begin to purchase and lay tiles, the price of which is often quite high. So it should work important rule: “Measure seven times, and cut once!”

Laying tiles on the floor

The tiles are laid only on a perfectly flat floor surface. Therefore, if the differences are impressive, you should think about floor screed. All types of screeds are suitable for tiles. On top of gypsum fiber sheets with a dry screed, the tiles are glued with Fliesenkleber glue. Only fulfilling all preparatory work proceed directly to installation.

According to the rules for laying tiles on the floor, we first determine the pattern. To do this, we lay out two cross rows along the longitudinal and transverse axis. And special plastic crosses inserted between the tiles will help control the thickness of the seam.

There are different ways laying tiles.

Traditional

Diagonally

With offset (staggered)

Herringbone

Herringbone with attachment

Modular grid

Depending on what you choose, the first row of tiles is laid. When using the direct (traditional) method in large rooms, installation begins from the middle, and in small rooms - from the second row.

When using diagonal laying, the frieze is first marked, then whole tiles are laid around the perimeter, then cut tiles are laid, and then the frieze is laid. After laying the first trial row, be sure to check its flatness using a level.

Special attention should be paid to the corners. Since the tiles may not be concave in the same way, the corners may protrude, therefore, to avoid unevenness of the floor, the tiles must be set slightly below level. Be sure to ensure that the seams in perpendicular directions match.

Using a level and a corner, we lay the lighthouse tiles. If the floor is uneven, they are installed in the most high point. Next, mortar or glue is applied to the place where the tiles will lie, the tiles are placed on top and carefully tapped with a rubber hammer. Afterwards, you can fill the remaining space in rows, periodically monitoring the level of tile laying.

The tiles are perfectly attached to the floor using:

cement mortar;
glue;
cement mortar diluted with plasticizers;
bitumen mastic.

Laying tiles on the wall

Laying methods

Laying tiles on the wall can be done in three ways: traditional “joint to joint”, in a checkerboard pattern (“interlinked”) or diagonally.

In the first case, you need to constantly monitor the coincidence of the vertical and horizontal seams, and also measure the tiles by size.

When using “bandaged” cladding, the middle of the tile from the top row is located above the joint of the tiles of the bottom row. Installation using this method is greatly simplified, because... There is no need to constantly monitor the matching sizes of the tiles.

Diagonal laying can be seen more often in large rooms. The method is considered quite labor-intensive and complex, so if you decide to use the services of specialists, the prices for laying tiles may not please you. The main points to pay attention to are the perpendicularity of the seams and the correct abutment of the tiles to the walls.

Surface preparation

First, possible deviations of the surface from the axes are checked: horizontally for the floor and vertically for the walls. The maximum permissible percentage of deviation is 0.2%, i.e. it should not exceed 2 mm per meter of length.

Using a plumb line or level, we check the vertical deviation for the walls. At correct installation the plumb error will be smaller. It is best to hang the plumb line on nails specially driven into the corners of the room. Using a long ruler, the deviation is checked over the entire height and width.

A flat surface is the key to success. Possible gaps immediately become visible if you apply an even beam or level. If there are large recesses, they must be carefully filled with putty. Small gaps up to 2 mm can be left unchanged.

Now, tapping the surface, we test it for strength. The presence of a bubbling sound indicates a loose fit of the layer. In this case, the surface is cleaned until brickwork or concrete. During tapping, sand shedding is also possible: such a layer is removed or strengthened using specially designed means.

Technology for laying tiles on wooden surface involves the use of roofing material and metal mesh. Slats and roofing felt are placed on the wall, and a mesh is attached. It is plastered on top with a 15 mm layer of mortar, after which the tile dries.

In the figure: 1 - stuffed bars, 2 - wooden base, 3 - roofing felt or roofing felt, 4 - mesh, 5 - cement plaster, 6 - tile

Grease stains, dirt, remnants of soap solution, paint - none of this should be on the prepared surface, otherwise the tile will not stick firmly enough. Painted walls are particularly troublesome. Removing paint is a rather labor-intensive process, but with the help of a hammer drill with a spatula or a cutting machine with a card brush, it can be significantly simplified and speeded up. The tile will stick better if the surface is primed.

Laying technology

The technology for laying tiles on the wall involves preliminary laying of lighthouse tiles. To install the beacons evenly, pull the thread, which lags behind the surface by 5 mm. They are guided by it when installing beacons and leveling the plane. In this case, the vertical and horizontal parameters must be monitored. It is best to use alabaster for installation, because... it hardens instantly, and after laying the row, it is quickly and easily cleaned from the lighthouse tiles, which are already installed on a permanent base.

The wall begins to be covered from the center of the wall towards the corner. The center of the wall must be marked by drawing a pencil vertically to the floor. From this place they begin laying. If, in a checkerboard pattern in the first row, the center line runs along the junction of two tiles, then in the second row it will be on a whole tile.

Now we mark the rows horizontally and carefully lay the tiles, starting from the very bottom. If you are sure that the floors are level, then the tiles can be installed directly on them.

If during the installation process you notice that you have deviated from a straight line, the already laid tile can be slightly raised. This is done using wedges that are tapped under the tiles.

The tiles can also be installed on a screwed rail, in the corners of which plumb slats with an attached cord are placed. All this is done in order to lay the tiles evenly both horizontally and vertically. After the tiles are laid, all fixtures are removed and the voids are filled with mortar.

We carry out installation directly as follows: on reverse side tiles, using a trowel, apply a solution (cement, glue), distribute it with a comb, press it tightly to the surface, and tap it. To do this, use a rubber hammer. The level of the tile should coincide with the level of the previously stretched rope. The entire space between the tile and the wall must be filled with mortar, otherwise adhesion will decrease over time and the tile may fall off. The applied layer of solution should be from 7 to 15 mm. The remaining mortar that appears on the seams is removed with a trowel.

We insert special crosses between the tiles, which will allow you to control the thickness of the seam. After the installation process is completed, carefully clean the seams from any remaining mortar and dust, and remove the crosses.

Cutting tiles

In some cases, if the size of the room requires it, you need to cut the tiles. For floor ones, a tile cutter is used, for wall ones, a roller glass cutter or carbide cutter is used.

Before cutting, the tiles are marked. Then a cutter is drawn along the attached metal ruler with pressure, after which the tile itself is broken, placing it under it. wooden block, or special forceps.

Grouting joints

The last stage is grouting the joints. Their width for tiles whose size is 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 60 cm should be on average 3 mm. The surface will look more aesthetically pleasing if colored grout is applied to the seams. But even ordinary white grout will give a wall with tiles a neat and finished look.

The grout is applied either with a special scraper, grater, or using a bag with a nozzle, reminiscent of a pastry shop. After application, the grout is spread evenly to fill all the seams. Then the dry excess is removed with a grater, and the seams are treated with a sponge soaked in water.

If the tiles are glazed, then grouting can be done immediately after the mortar has dried. If the tile is matte, then before grouting it is moistened with a sprayer.

Used for grouting cement mixture or epoxy resin. Unglazed tiles are additionally treated with sealant. This will prevent stains from appearing both on the tile itself and in the seams.

A master class on laying tiles (video) is easy to find on the Internet. Are you now wondering how much it costs to lay tiles? We are sure you can do everything yourself!

Ceramic tile flooring is quite popular. This material is often used to decorate floors in the bathroom, toilet or other utility rooms (for example, a boiler room). Laying floor tiles do it yourself - a rather labor-intensive process. It requires care and accuracy. And we will tell you how this is done in this article.

Preparatory work

Ceramic tile laying work requires preparation. The first thing you need to do is stock up necessary tool. You will need:

trowel, notched and wide spatula;
building level and ruler;
marker or pencil;
tile cutter;
hammer (simple and rubber), pliers, drill or hammer drill;
plastic crosses for aligning seams;
primer, grout, adhesive;
ceramic tiles.

To calculate the required number of tiles, you should resort to simple mathematics. Knowing the area of the room, divide it by the area of one tile. In this case, it is worth taking into account the width of the seams, 2–5 mm. As a result, you will receive the required amount of material. Add 10-15% to this value. This reserve is necessary; the tile may crack during operation, or you may cut a piece incorrectly.

It is imperative to make a reserve. The fact is that the shades of tiles can vary even in the same batch. Therefore, if you are missing just one square, it will be very difficult to find the right color.

Now you need to prepare the surface. Remove all items from the room (furniture, plumbing fixtures, etc.). If it was on the floor old tiles, you need to get rid of it. You also need to do the same with the old adhesive mass. A hammer drill with a special attachment in the form of a spatula or a chisel with a hammer will help you with this.

When performing dismantling work, do not forget about your own safety. Put on your glasses, mask, and gloves on your hands.

The next step is to clean the entire surface. Remove large and small debris, sweep away dust and sand (or vacuum). Then start leveling the base. If dismantling results in large depressions or bulges, then leveling should begin with them. The bulges are knocked down with a chisel, and the depressions are sealed with cement-sand mortar. Then a sand-cement screed is laid on the concrete floor and leveled. At each stage, check the levelness using a level. Unevenness is allowed in the range from 0.5 to 1 cm.

If the room has wooden floors, then the leveling technology is different. First of all, the boards need to be impregnated with special paint. oil based. When the surface is dry, a layer of waterproofing is laid. Then a reinforcing mesh is installed to a height of 4-5 cm (for this you can use nails that are not completely driven into the floors). And only after that the entire area is filled with a leveling mixture (sand-cement mortar).

In rooms with wooden floors It is allowed to use thick plywood as a substrate (thickness of at least 12 mm). But the sheets must be laid on a surface without significant unevenness. Otherwise, under the weight of the tiles and the adhesive mass, the plywood may bend and break.

We carry out the markings

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor begins with markings. The first step (especially if you are installing for the first time) is to do a dry layout. The tiles are placed in place without adhesive. This way you can calculate everything (where you need to cut, where difficult angles are formed, etc.). When laying out, do not forget about future seams between the tiles.

There are two main ways to lay out slabs.

The easiest one is to start from one far corner of the room. This method is considered the fastest. This is how all novice tilers lay, or if they have to work in small narrow rooms, or rooms with complex geometry.

The second method is more complex - laying from the middle of the room to the sides. This is how tiles are laid in large and free rooms. In this case, the room is divided into four equal parts. The first line is drawn from the middle of one wall to the opposite, the second is also in the middle, perpendicular to the first. Laying begins from any corner formed in the center of the room. In this case, you will have to cut the tiles around the perimeter of the room. When using this method of installation, a more attractive pattern is formed.

You can also choose the direction of laying the tiles. Can be laid diagonally or in the usual straight way. The first one looks much more beautiful, but to create it you need to have experience in such work. That is why the second installation method is much more common.

Whatever method you use, you will still have to cut the tiles. It is important to remember one recommendation here. Try not to cut strips that are too narrow, as they will look bad. From full tiles At least 20 percent of the area must remain. Also make sure that the most visible area is made of whole tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles

Now let's take a closer look at how to lay floor tiles. First of all, prepare the glue. If you purchased a ready-made mass, then carefully read the instructions. If you like dry glue, then you need to dilute it with water (also according to the manufacturer’s recommendations).

Since the process of laying tiles is quite long, it is necessary to dilute the adhesive mass in small portions. Otherwise, it will simply dry out and increase your financial costs.

Work is carried out squarely. That is, areas with an area of square meter and an adhesive mass is prepared for this area. After finishing one area, we move on to the next.

First you need to cover the entire area with primer. This will prevent the formation of mold and make the surface more suitable for high-quality bonding. Depending on the level of humidity in the room, the primer is made from one to three passes. Only after it has completely dried can you begin laying floor tiles.

The surface is slightly moistened, and a layer of adhesive mass is applied to it. Using a notched trowel, the glue is leveled. In this case, you need to ensure that voids and air bags do not form.

On back side The tiles are also covered with a layer of adhesive. This is done using the same notched spatula. You need to cover the entire surface with a thin layer. The tile is then turned over and neatly placed in its place. In this case, you need to apply even pressure over the entire surface.

The tiles are leveled by gently moving from side to side. Horizontal evenness is checked using a building level or using a simple stretched thread. If the tile lies below the desired level, then a little adhesive is added; if it is higher, the excess glue is removed.

A rubber hammer is used to level the tiles flat. With its help, accurate blows are delivered. This way you can move the tile to the desired place.

An even gap must be left between the tiles. Its accuracy is achieved by using special plastic crosses. They fit into the resulting seam. If the tiles are aligned along the crosses, the gap will be smooth and neat. Such a seam (2-5 mm wide) is needed to prevent the coating from swelling.

Near the walls you will have to cut the tiles. This is done using a tile cutter. A line is carefully drawn along the ruler, and then the tile is simply broken. But this must be done carefully.

Final stage

While working, you need to periodically wipe the already completed area of masonry with a rag. This is necessary to wipe off any remaining adhesive before it hardens. And after laying the entire flooring, you cannot walk on it for at least two days.

After the glue has hardened, you can begin grouting the joints. For this, a special moisture-resistant putty is used. This work can be done using a rubber spatula. But first you need to clean the seams from construction waste and dust.

After all the seams have been rubbed, you need to clean the entire floor of debris with a rag. Then the grout is given a day to dry and you can begin wet cleaning.

This completes the tile laying work. You can learn some tricks and installation techniques by watching videos and photos.

Video

Video material about the features of laying tiles on the floor:

Photo

Ceramic tiles are a popular type flooring, which is a fireproof and moisture-resistant finishing material made from silica, clay and sand. Ceramic tiles differ from ceramic tiles only in their glossy coating, which gives them shine and glamor. It is used as facing material for any surface due to its unique qualities: high term service, wear resistance, heat resistance, resistance to pollution and chemicals.

The coating is divided into several types, depending on the location of use. Floor tiles are available for:

low traffic areas;
residential areas;
kitchens, bathrooms and bathrooms;
shopping and office spaces;
crowded areas.

Ceramic tiles have a classification, a huge color palette and maximum quantity invoices This allows you to choose a product that preserves the integrity of any interior.

The advantages of tiles compared to other flooring materials are very significant:

higher resistance to mechanical damage;
durability;
preservation of its original appearance for a long time;
moisture resistance;
resistance to deformation;
resistance to low and high temperatures;
environmentally friendly material;
safety for allergy sufferers.

Along with the advantages, the product has a number of disadvantages that should be taken into account:

quite high cost of material;
the need to purchase related materials;
the desirability of providing underfloor heating;
The coating is not impact resistant.

Laying floor tiles with your own hands is labor-intensive and requires special knowledge and skills. But thanks modern technologies Doing this work yourself is quite a feasible task. Let's look at how to lay floor tiles step by step.

Tile selection

Ceramic (or tile) tiles can be single-color, multi-color, regular and shaped. By quality characteristics divided into three varieties.

Ordinary products are square and rectangular. Square ones have dimensions of 150x150 and 100x100 mm, and rectangular ones - 150x100 and 150x75 mm.

Corner elements having different shapes and purpose are called shaped. The scope of their application is the angular layout of cornices and baseboards.

You can learn a lot of additional information from the pictograms on the packaging: a foot drawn on a black background means that the material in the box is intended for the floor, a brush means walls, a snowflake means frost resistance, and a foot on a shaded background indicates the high strength of the coating.

The most important indicator for flooring is wear resistance. The abrasion class must be at least 1 or 2. Marking AA - best indicator resistance to aggressive environments.

Drawing a scheme for laying the coating

It is necessary to select tiles so that their dimensions are in perfect harmony with the size of the room. In a narrow and long room, it is better to install the covering widthwise. This will hide the length a little and visually expand the room.

For clarity, it is better to draw on paper a diagram of how ceramic tiles will be laid on the floor. This will make it easier to see whether the ornament should be supplemented with borders and decorations. It is necessary to calculate the connection of the ceramics to existing plumbing or communication elements. And also know how and how the final row of finishing will end.

Materials and tools

To install floor tiles, you need to purchase some tools and materials. Since there are many ways to level surfaces and lay flooring, this list can be considered approximate.

Tools:

hammers;
chisel for dismantling old tiles;
trowel (plaster spatula) and rubber spatula;
plumb lines and level;
triangle;
wire cutters and pliers;
polyethylene film;
brushes;
bucket and rule;
grinder and tile cutter;
floor heating;
plastic crosses for precise placement.

Materials:

ceramic (tile) tiles;
bitumen mastic;
polyethylene film;
self-leveling composition for floors;
anti-mold primer and antifungal solution;
adhesive composition for tiles;
grout for joints, preferably epoxy.

The quality of tile adhesive and grout often depends on the brand of the coating manufacturer. Often on the packaging with glue and grout there is a recommendation about which company’s products are best to use in a particular case.

When choosing a grout for tile joints, you should remember that it becomes lighter after drying.

Preparing the subfloor for finishing

After the tools and materials have been prepared, the coating diagram with all the additions has been drawn, you can begin preparing the surface of the subfloor. It must be clean and dry.

The wooden floor is leveled by sanding: putty tiny cracks, irregularities are covered and sanded. Or you can just put moisture resistant plywood, the thickness of which is from 12 mm.

Laying floor tiles on a concrete floor should be done after correcting the surface with self-leveling mixtures. Before this, the surface must be dried and cleaned. In addition, a number of conditions must be met:

the difference in unevenness and roughness is no more than 2 cm;
complete absence of cracks;
the surface must be treated with a primer;
the mixture should not leak into adjacent rooms.

After leveling the surface, you should waterproofing works and priming the floor.

Waterproofing under tiles is carried out:

roll materials, the advantage of which is low cost, but the disadvantages are: pungent odor, the need to use a burner, difficulty in installation, raising the floor level;
bitumen mastics, which are easy to use, especially in difficult rooms, but they have a pungent odor and cannot be used in a heated floor system;
cement-polymer mixtures, easy to apply and firmly adhere to the surface, but they dry very quickly (small volumes can be diluted).

The primer is applied in several layers until it stops being absorbed immediately.

We do the laying of tiles with our own hands

To lay the tiles evenly and neatly, you should mark the prepared floor surface:

remove skirting boards and thresholds;
measure the middle of the walls and draw center lines;
draw diagonal lines for diagonal laying.

After this, you can begin laying along the outlined lines, according to the drawn sketch. You can try laying the material on the floor without glue to find the best placement.

The glue is applied to one square meter of surface in any selected corner, which are formed at the intersection of the marking lines. For this work you should use a spatula or spatula.
We press the tile firmly to the floor, pressing on the adhesive base. Marking lines are used as a guide for movement. Laying is carried out over the entire surface on which the glue is applied. If you need to maintain a special distance between the tiles, then you should use plastic crosses prepared in advance.
Following the direction created by the lines, we lay the covering, heading towards the center of the room. Carefully close one half of the room, only then move on to the second part.

Pay attention! The same level must be maintained; in some cases, a little more adhesive base can be applied.

Next, you need to fill the empty space between the floor and walls, where the solid tiles did not fit. To do this, the material is cut with a special cutter with an adjustable size for uniform cutting.

A product that is cut on all sides may look bad after installation.

After installation, the glue must dry and harden. After this, if the tile is porous and not previously coated with primer solutions (see the instructions for the tile), it should be coated with a primer.