How to cover up small cracks on the walls of the room. How to close a crack in the wall so as not to remember its existence? Causes of cracks in the wall

I saw several written requests on my mailbox, where people asked to tell why in the walls, and how to fix them. It turned out that everything they knew and did before did not work. No method saved them from new formations. That's why I decided to write this article.

For a long time I did not talk on this topic with anyone, and I came across similar works about a dozen years ago, so I decided to update my knowledge and see what great minds had time to come up with something new in this regard. By the way, we always try to give you the latest information so that you keep up with the times. After all, something new is often invented, and it is often cheaper and more efficient to apply it.

Getting to the bottom of the problem

Well, let's start by defining the types of cracks. Yes, they are fundamentally different from each other, dividing into two types. The first is erosional cracks, resulting from a process called erosion, although weathering may also be involved. So, erosion is a process of destruction that is associated with time, with the influence of mold, precipitation, wind or thermal expansion.

For example, we have a wall that was plastered with ordinary cheap cement, and even in a ratio of 1/3. Yes, the plaster holds and looks beautiful. But it absorbs moisture and crumbles due to insufficient molecular bonds. And as a result, water penetrates into it, washing out all our connecting elements from the top layer.

When the time comes for autumn rains, they abundantly saturate and saturate everything around with moisture. Before winter, the wall does not have time to dry properly, and the moisture freezes, and at the same time it greatly increases in volume. Try filling a glass bottle with water and putting it in the freezer. You will see that as soon as it freezes, it will easily crack the bottle. And if it is a metal container, then it will simply be unbent or inflated.

So, the same thing happens in the thickness of the plaster, water breaks it from the inside. See how many there are? So, all these factors, of course, destroy the surface layer more and more over time. And what is the result? That's right, microcracks appear. Each one is approximately 1 cm long.

If they are not sealed, then even more water will get into them, or some other factors will act doubly hard and increase the cracked places several times. If in this case they are not covered up, then after some time such plaster will completely fall off.

In general, you understand, we have just described an example of an erosion crack on the surface of the plaster of a building. Exactly the same can be indoors. For example, if the wrong cement composition was selected, then it may not react too quickly to thermal expansion and also crack.

There is another kind. For example, if we talk about a very old brick house, which was not finished with plaster, but just a brick was laid under the jointing. Yes, here erosion, even over a long period of time, cannot do anything to brick, that is, to pressed and fired clay.

Most likely, erosion will wash out the joint cement, and as a result of this, small cracks in the brick wall may occur. If the cement from the joints is sufficiently washed out so that the main load is removed from it, then where will it fall? Of course, either to the remainder of the concrete in the seam, or it will go down a whole section, and then it will overcome it.

All this, it would seem, is nonsense. But tell me, what is the task of plastering? That's right - to prevent harmful factors from reaching the main wall. And I will tell you that even plaster with minor defects copes with this. The cracks that appeared are the result of your savings, because the cement was selected not of the type that was needed. Or you did not know about the existence of another, or simply saved.

After all, cement mortars are anything. For example, decorative, heat-resistant, structural, lightweight, dense, porous, astringent, straining, radiation-protective, polymeric, chemical, heavy, and dozens more different ones!

Yes, you will not find them in ordinary hardware stores, because it is profitable for the buyer to purchase only one type, the cheapest one, and sell it to you with the highest markup. But, as you can see, if you want, you can choose a special one for any type of work. Well, not about that now.

In general, the plaster described above copes with its task, that is, it protects the main walls from destruction. And if you saved on it on purpose or not on purpose, then be kind, patch it up a little, and everything will be fine. How to do this, we will describe later.

And now the most interesting. I'm almost 100% sure that you asked for advice not because you need to fix a dozen tiny cracks, but because you have a real problem with the formation of large cracks. If you don’t have small cracks on your wall, but large ones, half a meter-meter long, and they appeared not just on the plaster, but in the body of the main, that is, the bearing wall, then you don’t have an erosion crack, but a real one deformation.

Remember for the rest of your life, a deformation crack never just appears, and you will never eliminate it with any smearing. If you have such a thing, then you need to fight not with it, but only with the cause of its occurrence.

So, let's figure out what are the causes of deformation cracks, list them.

Excessive unilateral shrinkage of the foundation

Worst kind of deformity. In addition, this is the most common situation, it occurs everywhere. If the foundation was not poured according to technology, if dozens of conditions for its pouring were not met, then it may crack. As a result, the wall on it will also crack. In this case, a cut will occur - not a shift, but a cut - of static loads, and the entire structure will begin to move relative to the axis, which will succumb to this movement.

Yes, it's a little hard to understand. Let's sketch what we're talking about:

As you can see, part of wall "A" is starting to move. This movement can be either vertical or horizontal. In any case, this is an extremely serious malfunction of the building. And in the event of such a nuisance, we will have to do global work.

Many advise the crack to foam, cover up, and that's it. But if you think rationally, you can realize that on average a square meter of a wall weighs about a ton. Of course, there are also 500 kg, there are also 5 tons - it doesn’t matter. So, a part of the wall weighing 20-30 tons goes down, while also pushing through the foundation. To solve such a colossal problem with a simple putty is simply unrealistic. Well, nothing, more on that later.

Damage to the foundation due to damage to the blind area

The blind area is connected to the base and is an element that protects the foundation from water. So, if the blind area is damaged, water begins to flow into the foundation space. It liquefies the soil and accelerates shrinkage.

If the thickness of the freezing layer reaches the level of water in the foundation, then when it freezes, it similarly begins its destructive effect. And when destroyed, we get, again, the consequence that was described above.

thermal expansion

There is a problem with this, but quite rarely. The atmosphere inside the room does not change quickly. The house is like a thermos in which the temperature is constantly maintained. Inside, it is almost equal to the temperature of the walls of the room. If it is -10 outside, and +25 indoors, then there is a constant heat exchange. From heating devices to walls, from walls to atmosphere and vice versa. So, the temperature inside, as you know, does not change, and thermal expansion is either completely absent or extremely insignificant.

Now let's imagine a house in which there was no window for several years. For example, in your country house they broke it, but you didn’t see it or decided not to insert it. So what's going on? The weather outside changes very quickly. In the autumn-winter period, it often happens that during the day the temperature is +2, and at night it drops to -8. As you remember, we have a broken window, and the temperature in the room is changing at exactly the same rate as it is outside.

The walls of the building, heated during the day, cool down very quickly at night, and vice versa. So they begin to play like an accordion: then they expanded, then they narrowed. Since the rate of temperature change is high, the speed of this "game" is also high. And concrete or brick walls are not an accordion, so they do not withstand, they burst.

In this case, only the walls burst, and the foundation remains intact. It is difficult to fix such a malfunction, but it is possible. At the same time, it is realistic to make it seem as if it did not exist.

Structural changes

These also cause deformation cracks. To make it easier for you to understand, let's use an example. Let's say you bought a house, and there is a column in the middle of the hall, and you have it like an eyesore. Don't like it, kill me. You, without thinking for a long time, demolish it, and six months later you start, perplexed, asking: why are the walls cracking?

Well, how can they not crack and burst if you demolished the support beam, on which the lion's share of the load was located. The walls took on a load they were not designed for and began to burst. Everything is simple and sad. If you have a similar situation, now you have serious work ahead of you, which we will describe below.

Rotting, damage to stiffeners or support beams

Cracks can also occur for this reason. If, for example, you have a two-story building, and the span above the window was built using not a channel, but a wooden bar, then when it can no longer carry the load, what will happen? That's right, at this point the wall will burst, or something worse will happen.

The same applies to damage to stiffeners, or concrete lintels. If, for example, there was a seismic beam in your apartment, but you didn’t like it, and you demolished it unauthorized, get ready for serious problems and punishment, because cracks are now inevitable. And they will arise not only for you, but also for all neighbors who will definitely call the BTI.

Let's say you live in your private house, which you recently bought, you have one room upstairs empty, and you decide to put a lathe there. Yes, somehow you manage to put it in there, you are happy and everything is fine. A month later, they discovered that on the wall you have a crack as thick as a finger. Strange, yes, where did she come from?

Well, of course! You have placed a machine, the minimum weight of which is 3 tons, on an area of three squares. And that slab, which took on the load, began to put pressure on a section of the wall with a huge mass, which as a result could not stand it and burst.

Eliminate erosion cracks

Let's move on to the sweetest part of our story. I say this because everything is done very simply and does not require much effort. Understand that all your actions should be aimed only at preventing the damaging factor from entering the body of the crack, and nothing more.

If you pursue the goal of preventing their occurrence, then this is pointless, you still will not be able to do this. Unless, you can treat the surface with a strengthening primer, but the effect of this is minimal. So, in order to eliminate erosion cracks, do the work in the following sequence.

Since you still have to worsen the visual condition of the wall by applying it or some other solution, leaving stains, then treat the entire wall with a strengthening compound. It won't be redundant. And if you do not want to do this manipulation with the entire wall, then apply it only on the crack and, preferably, in its cavity too. You can do this with a syringe or sprayer, which, for example, you have left from window cleaner.
Dilute the solution, and it is better not to use gypsum-based putty or cement, but, for example, tile adhesive or a similar composition. Such products bind better to the surface, and in this case, your putty will definitely not fall out of the wall.
We draw glue or some other solution into a large syringe or similar device and press it into the crack. Sometimes I even took a tight bag, poured some glue into it, cut off a corner (a very tiny piece), and worked with it like with a pastry bag. Just do not press, otherwise the package will disperse along the seam.
We fill the crack until our solution begins to bulge out of it.
We take spatulas and draw from above, leveling our solution along the plane of the wall.

That's all. We carry out such manipulations with all our cracks. At the end of the work, it will be useful to prime everything again.

Elimination of deformation cracks

And this is the most serious, hard and thorough work. We have to spend well and work physically. So, information for general understanding. If there has been damage to the foundation, it is useless to make a wall, you need to repair the foundation. If there was damage to the wall without damaging the foundation, then the wall must be sewn. If the seismic beam, stiffener or some other support was damaged, then it needs to be restored.

Regarding the restoration of beams and other supporting elements, I will not talk much. Remember the main thing: you will not just have to restore this beam, weld it with reinforcement and concrete it. We will have to transfer the load that was there before, and this is done either molecularly or using jacks.

Now let's talk about the first two types of work.

We restore the foundation

In order to do this, work in the following sequence.

Everything, this work is completed. Now, as soon as the old foundation moves even a millimeter, the new foundation will take on its load, they are now tightly connected. All that remains for you is to plaster the crack. Only plastering should be done after at least two months. The whole structure must "play" and lie on a new foundation. If you plaster the next day, then in a month you will again see a tiny crack. This is just the distance that was necessary in order for everything to rest against the new foundation. And if you did everything right, then you will never remember about it again.

So, friends, cracks are eliminated once and for all, and not just covered up and forgotten. Understand, if you smear it, it will not give anything at all. By the way, we once restored the building of a kindergarten that burst during an earthquake. So, we measured the shrinkage by gluing a ruler to one side of the crack and measuring the discrepancy. It was cosmic 2 mm per month, and this is critical.

We completely restored the emergency building in this way, and then the quality of our work was checked by gluing strips of glass on the control points of cracks. None of them burst to this day, since we always gave a guarantee, and every year we are interested in how our foundation stands there.

How the walls are sewn

If there were cracks on the walls for any reason, you examined everything and did not find any damage to the basement, which means that the foundation is intact and you will have to sew up the walls. So, the necessary work depends on the type of damage, of which there are also two. The first is local damage, and the second is global.

In case of local damage, that is, if a small area is damaged, small and simple work is required. And if the damage is global, for example, your entire building burst, then you have to do something more complicated.

So, local type of damage. These include small cracks one meter long, +/- 50 cm. These are repaired as follows.

Global Damage. They are eliminated in exactly the same way as local ones. But there, as you already understood, the crack is twice as large, and therefore we have to do something else.

We'll have to throw a few reinforcing belts on the entire building. It is done like this.

We mark along the entire perimeter, at a distance of 50 cm from each other, lines. We make as many as we can fit. If the damage to the walls is not so strong, then we do it at a distance of 1 meter from each other.
Along the entire length of the marked lines we make strobes with a depth of 20 mm.
We put reinforcement along the entire length in one gate. And we grab it there with a few strokes of alabaster or putty - it doesn’t matter what exactly, the main thing is to hold on.
And now the most difficult thing, here you have to work as a team. So let's get a cutter. As you know, this is an oxygen and propane cutting machine. So, we take a cutter and warm up all our fittings. We do it as hard as we can. If its length does not exceed 6 meters, then excellent, with a cutter you can heat it all red-hot, it will be ideal.
As soon as the reinforcement turned red, and it should be at least 16 mm in diameter, then we grab the other two segments close to the wall from both of its edges. And they didn’t just stick it with slag from the electrode, but made a high-quality solid seam. Because we are making a tight tightening hitch, and it will be constantly under load.
We proceed to the warm-up of the next one and repeat the same operations.
Once all the belts are welded, we plaster.

Well, in the end, as soon as the metal cools down, the entire circuit pulls our house together with great force. Heating the metal, the molecules expanded, and the length of the armature increased. Then she returned to her previous position, only there she already had fulcrum - other fittings, which were all pulled together, as if with a noose. And now your walls will never crack again, they will be constantly rigidly restrained by reinforcing belts. It is like a female corset that tightens the waist.

Well, friends, as you can see, everything is not as simple as you expected. In another article, we will tell you how such serious problems could have been avoided. Because it is always easier to prevent than to fix what has already been damaged.

I hope you found our story helpful. I want to tell you in the end that our goal was to write an introductory article, not a hard technical literature, so it should not be relied upon as an instruction for use. And as you understand, only you are responsible for all your actions. Therefore, approach all work with intelligence and caution, and you will never have any problems. Good luck!

Due to the movement of the soil layers, the entire structure rolls, then to one side, then to the other. But the building itself stands solidly, due to the good.

In the event that a crack appears in the wall of the house, this may mean that the foundation is doing its job very poorly. But there are many more reasons why cracks can occur even without destroying the foundation.

If the supporting soils do not evenly accept the load, the tape will deform more than the walls of the building can withstand.

It's easy to do this:

If the markers remain intact or the cracks expand or narrow, then this means that the foundation is doing its job well, and there was stress in the wall materials that splashed out in the form of cracks.

To strengthen the wall in the emergency area, apply:

Reinforcement with carbon fiber or steel mesh, on the outside;
Metal frames or anchor fastenings;
Reinforcing elements that are laid along the strobes;
Use the injection method.

So before you start building, consider all the nuances. Well, if troubles did occur, then after reading this article you will know what to do.

We hope that the information in this article was useful to you. We wish you good luck!

The most common material for the construction of buildings and structures is brick. Its disadvantages include the appearance during operation of defects and damage on the brickwork. The most common defect is cracks. To eliminate this shortcoming today is not difficult. To do this, it is necessary to determine the cause of the crack and choose the right technological process to eliminate it.

You can detect the presence of cracks in the brickwork during a visual inspection of the house. It is necessary to pay attention to how the expansion of the split is directed.

For cracks that are formed as a result of a vertical load, the expansion is directed downward. When the foundation subsides, the expansion of the crack in the brickwork will be directed upwards. Due to the wear of the material, numerous cracks appear, which open closer to the surface.

Due to appearance:

constructive (the depth of the foundation or the load on the walls was incorrectly calculated, the technology for building a house was not followed, the brand of masonry mortar was incorrectly selected, lack of reinforcement, etc.);
temperature (freezing of the foundation, temperature changes);
shrinkage (the presence of a pit near the house, the construction of a building on bulk soils, etc.);
deformation (incorrectly selected material, etc.);
wear (each material has its own service life).

Cracks can form:

vertical;
horizontally;
inclined.

The outline of cracks can be:

direct;
curvilinear;
closed, that is, not reaching the edge of the wall.

Depth: surface and through.

According to the size of the cracks formed:

small (up to 5 mm);
medium (5–10 mm);
wide (over 10 mm).

Repairing cracks in brick walls

It is possible to start sealing cracks at home after the final identification of the cause of its occurrence and the elimination of shrinkage processes. In order to understand whether the cracking process has stabilized or not, it is necessary to conduct a rupture test. To do this, use the following devices:

plaster beacon;
plate beacon with a scale.

In addition, to determine the stabilization, you can stick paper on the crack or apply a cement strip. If after a certain time the paper or strip remains intact, then you can begin the process of sealing cracks.

If the crack continues the deformation process, then you should wait for its completion. It makes no sense to carry out repair work at this stage. Because the crack will reappear.

To repair cracked walls, you will need the following materials and tools:

small spatula (for mixing the solution);
a container in which the solution can be prepared;
Master OK;
a hammer;
boaster;
dust brush;
putty knife;
mounting foam;
cement;
sand;
rolled metal;
fittings;
anchors and dowels.

Options for sealing cracks depending on their characteristics

For each type of cracks, the material and technology of sealing are selected individually. For non-through internal cracks up to 5 mm wide, a strong cement or gypsum mortar can be used.

Crack repair process

Before starting to seal the crack, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. They consist in cleaning the place of repair from dirt, debris and dust.
Moisten the cavity with plenty of water and allow to dry.
The damaged area is treated with putty or cement mortar.
After drying, a reinforced tape is laid on top.
Lay a layer of putty or cement mortar on the tape.

Medium-sized cracks (up to 6–10 mm wide)

Dismantling cracked masonry sections.
Cleaning the repair site from dust and debris.
Surface primer.
Drill holes for dowels at a distance of 25–50 cm from each other.
From above, a metal mesh with 5x5 cells is fastened with screws.
Covering the grid with cement plaster with the addition of a small amount of sand.
At the final stage, it is necessary to apply a finishing material.

For wide cracks, a brick castle is suitable:

It is necessary to remove bricks that have cracked from the outer and outer side of the wall.
Clean the area of the defect from dirt and dust. To do this, it is better to use a construction scarpel.
Lay new bricks on the mortar.
You can also eliminate this kind of crack using a metal anchor, which is a plate with two pins (anchors).

Cracks having a width of more than 10 mm are considered critical.

To eliminate them, the following method is suitable:

Clean the area of damage from contamination.
Fill the defect with mounting foam.
Wait for it to dry completely.
Cut the foam up to a depth of 2 cm.
Fill the resulting recess with cement or cement-sand mortar.
At the final stage, a finishing material is applied.

If it is not possible to disassemble the damaged brickwork of the house, then the following method can be used:

Clean the repair site from debris and dust.
Cracks are sealed with cement mortar.
T-shaped steel anchors are driven into the gap, which must be fixed with dowels on both sides of the crack. Attach them to the surface of the wall of the house.

Through cracks can be eliminated by strengthening the walls from the inside

Carry out preparatory work, namely, clean the damaged area from the old finishing material, dirt and dust.
Wet the gap with water and let it dry.
Fill the gap with cement mortar and crushed stone of a small fraction.
If necessary, fix the steel plates made of rolled steel. The strips are fastened with anchors and dowels.
Carry out finishing work on the damaged section of the wall of the house.

Application of metal staples

For through cracks, two metal plates and tightening bolts are used, which are passed through the wall. It is also allowed to hammer steel brackets into the wall on both sides of the gap formed. The ends of such brackets are bent to the wall and fixed with bolts. This prevents further crack opening. Bolt holes must be filled with cement before fixing. For large defects, it may be necessary to install several of these brackets. The sealing of the crack itself occurs in the same way as in other cases. The most suitable material for this is cement.

Elimination of cracks in the walls

For cracks that appeared on the piers of the outer brick walls, a metal clip is used. Its dimensions and design solution depend on the width of the wall.

Elimination of dangerous cracks

For serious cracks that threaten the destruction of the house, steel log rods are installed on both sides of the wall. As a result, the entire building is in a powerful steel bandage.

Cracks in masonry are a common problem that needs immediate attention. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of the structure of a residential building or other structures.

Sooner or later, every person is faced with the problem of repairing an apartment or a country house. If you want to change the wallpaper or repaint the wall, you may encounter some disadvantages of the vertical surface. When removing old wallpaper, you saw a network of minor damage and now you are thinking how to fix a crack in the wall? Do not worry. We will teach you how to act correctly in such a situation and how to repair cracks in the wall. Let's look at the most common options.

How to fix a crack in a brick wall?

First you need to understand the causes of this defect. There may be several. The most common reasons are:

Violation of the technological process during the construction of the building.
Incorrectly prepared masonry cement mortar.
Violation of the technological process of laying bricks.
The complete absence or insufficient number of reinforcing rods in the wall.
The absence of a single foundation at the house and outbuilding, which leads to the formation of cracks at the junction of buildings.

What needs to be done to fix the crack:

First, slightly increase the depth and width of the damage. We try to do this evenly from all sides at an angle of about 45 degrees. We cover the entire crack with one layer of a special primer.
To seal the hole, we use a cement mortar or a specialized one. When choosing a building material for repairs, it should be remembered that laying a cement mortar can lead to re-formation of cracks. In this case, it is best to choose a sealant. Even in a dry state, it is quite plastic and can easily narrow or expand under the influence of the external environment.
If you are going to paint, plaster or putty the wall in the future, then discard silicone sealants. The process for this building material will be difficult.
Place the sealant into the prepared crack using a special gun. Remove excess with rubber or at the same time smoothing the surface of the wall.
If you use a cement mortar for repairs, then do not forget to moisten the surface of the crack and the wall well beforehand. Such actions will help the solution to grab better. To improve the properties of the repair compound, add tile adhesive to it.

How to fix a crack in a plaster wall?

Plastered walls are often cracked. It doesn't matter if it's an outside wall or an inside one. The presence of damage always indicates a violation of the technological process during the preparation of the plaster, its laying and drying. Improper care of the plastered wall can lead to the appearance of cracks. The best option for protecting such walls from cracks is to use gossamer fiberglass, glass fiber or fiberglass mesh. We clean the damaged surface of the wall from spilling plaster particles. After that, we prime the wall and cover the crack with fresh putty. After it has completely dried, we glue any fiberglass using a specialized glue for glass fiber. The surface is covered with a layer of finishing putty or painted.

How to patch a crack in a drywall wall?

Even a drywall wall can surprise you unpleasantly with vertical cracks. They usually appear at the joints of panels. Any defect on such a wall indicates improper installation of the base and a violation of technology when screwing drywall sheets. Cracks can be caused by sudden changes in temperature, high humidity or flooding of the room, as well as improperly applied plaster mixture at the joints of the plates.

How and with what to close a crack in the wall? If the metal structure is not fixed very securely and staggers, then you will have to remove the drywall sheets and replace it. In all other cases, putty or acrylic will be required to cover the crack. Slightly expand and deepen the damage. Remove dust with a soft brush. Prime the surface and fill with repair compound. Remove excess material with a spatula. We glue a strip of fiberglass over the joint, or after the surface has completely dried, we grind it with sandpaper. Apply a layer of primer. Only after that the wall can be painted or wallpapered.

All buildings are destroyed over time, and this process is irreversible. However, it is possible to extend the life of the property, for this it is necessary to carry out repairs in a timely manner and close the resulting cracks. When renovating their homes, many are forced to face this problem. in the wall so that the further repair process turns out to be of high quality?

Holes in the wall are quite common.

Why are many structures subject to destructive processes?

In order to eliminate a crack in the wall, you need to find out the cause of its formation and establish the material from which it is made. To do this, an analysis is carried out, finding out the size and location of the crack.

It should be noted that gaps occur in a variety of cases: errors or complete non-compliance with the technological process of laying building materials, assembling drywall, laying concrete or incorrectly made proportion of the plaster mix, incompatibility of building materials of walls and plaster, sudden changes from heat to cold. There are a lot of factors influencing the appearance of cracks and cracks.

We get rid of cracks on the plastered wall

Both for external and for walls inside the structure, the destruction of plaster is one of the most common problems. They very often form on sand-cement plaster. Most often - they are quite thin, not thicker than a hair, and they are usually located along the entire wall in the form of a cobweb. They are especially noticeable after priming plastered walls. This happens when the proportion is violated during the preparation of the plaster mixture, as well as when it is incorrectly applied or after care for the surface. It also happens if the material is applied in a thick layer at a time (more than 2-3 cm), this is unacceptable, as the technology is violated.

Among other things, cracks may appear when it is done (painting or wallpapering). To avoid this, before the final putty, it is necessary to reinforce the wall. Various building materials will help with this, for example, painting fiberglass, fiberglass mesh or. Considering that glass wall papers are much more expensive, we will not focus on them, it is only worth noting that the method of their application does not differ from gluing fiberglass.

Video on how to stick fiberglass:

Fiberglass is considered the best option for eliminating cracks in the walls. It is fixed on a special glue (for glass) (treated with soil) base, followed by puttying or painting without applying it. Due to its structure, fiberglass is a reinforcing material.

When the walls are deeply damaged, the options for elimination

One of the main reasons why cracks appear in the walls is the uneven settlement of the constructed structure. First of all, this applies to new houses, which during the first two or three years after construction give a draft. After this period, most often, the built house no longer precipitates so much and rarely cracks. However, this is not insurance against further slight deformation and, therefore, cracks will appear anyway.

In addition, the cause of cracks and crevices on the walls may be non-compliance with the technological process during the construction of the building. This includes an incorrectly made cement composition, and improper laying of stone blocks or, as well as a violation during the construction of the foundation, etc.

Under various circumstances, cracks appear in the walls and. If the cracks are deep, then beacons should be set first to determine if they continue to expand. Lighthouses are a control seal of cracks in some places with a cement mortar for research. If there has been an expansion of cracks, first establish the cause of their creation and only at the end of the process close them. If there is an increase every day of the crack, you need to turn to professionals to prevent the destruction of the house and ensure the safety of your life.

If GKL cracked

The plasterboard wall is cracking, mainly at the seam. A problem arises when non-compliance and fixing of GKL sheets. For the correct installation of sheets, you need to study the rules for installing GKL. A common mistake is also the one that the seams in drywall are not properly sealed. However, sometimes there are other cases, for example, a sharp temperature drop in the room, great dampness or a flood. When interacting with water, drywall is subject to deformation, and when it dries, it cannot be corrected. This leads to its complete replacement in case of flooding.

capacity to prepare the plaster mixture;
grater and half grater;
steel trowel;
Master OK;
brush and brush;
small trowel for filling small holes.

You can make a solution yourself, or ready-made dry plaster mixes are sold in stores, which are diluted with water.

According to the advice of experts, for better sealing of cracks in the wall surface, it is recommended to use reinforced tape, thanks to which cracks do not spread further.

Summing up, it can be noted that, if cracks are identified, first you need to decide on the correct selection of the option for sealing cracks. And then the surface will be repaired quickly and efficiently, and for a long time you will not have to resort.