Spade drill for wood: video on how to sharpen. Spade drill - what you need to know about the tool How to sharpen a spade drill

Sharpening a drill at home is not difficult if you know how. The main difficulty in this matter is to withstand correct angles. After all, at home, as a rule, there are no special mandrels and conductors. There is only a sharpening machine. At least, we will proceed from such conditions.

The only equipment we have is an electric sharpening machine. But just because it exists does not mean that you can sharpen drills on it. It is necessary that the sharpening disk has correct form- that is, the shape of a cylinder with a smooth, not rounded edge. A convex edge with ground edges may result in incorrect sharpening.

If the disk is very worn out, it is better to replace it with a new one or correct it with a special CBN “pencil”, if you have one on the farm. It is very good if the disk is balanced and does not produce beats or vibrations (in fact, this is a mandatory norm). Only the peripheral surface of the disk is involved in the work, not its ends.

There is a temptation to use the flat side surface of the disk. But after several sharpenings it will lose its shape and fixing the stone after that will be much more difficult.

Sharpening auger for concrete

The hammer drill has a carbide plate as the cutting part, inserted into a slot at the working end and secured with solder. A normally sharpened drill has clear cutting edges with a sharpening angle of about 90 0 and an angle between the edges at the apex of 130–140 0.

With standard sharpening, the front edge of the cutting edge (directed in the direction of rotation) is inclined to the drill axis at an angle of 30 0, and the rear edge is inclined at an angle of 60 0. At manual sharpening, without having special devices, you can focus on the entire, unworn part of the edges and reproduce their angles of inclination.

Sharpening process

We start sharpening from the front edges. We position the drill near the peripheral surface of the stone so that the cutting edge is parallel to the axis of the sharpener and directed upward, and the edge is parallel to the surface, and lightly press the drill against the sharpener for a short time. A clearly visible mark remains on the metal, which shows whether its position was chosen correctly. The plane of the test section should coincide with the plane of the edge, and the spot of the section should be located in the center of its unworn part, without significant displacement. Finding it empirically correct position, remember it and start sharpening.

Parallelism is not difficult to achieve if you bring cutting edge to the surface of the stone and navigate along the gap remaining before contact.

You should not immediately achieve a sharp edge. Remember that you still have to grind down the back edge, and then the edge will “fall into place.”

First, the front edges are sharpened one after another. Then you need to check their symmetry. This is done visually, in the light, by placing the drill head near the edge of an object. The edge should be smooth or concave, but symmetrical. You can make a special template for testing. If there is asymmetry, a shorter edge is additionally ground down.

After this, the back edges of the edges are also ground down one by one, followed by checking for symmetry. The symmetry of the arrangement of the edges is also checked when viewed from the end, along the axis of the drill. When sharpened correctly, they are parallel, and between them there remains a bridge about 0.2–3 mm long, depending on the diameter.

If, as a result of processing, the cutting edges do not become sharp, there are visible roundings or cavities on them, the entire sharpening cycle must be repeated.

Add-ons

When sharpening, it is important not to overheat the tool. To cool, it is periodically dipped in water. A container of water should be kept near the machine. Do not press the drill against the sharpener long time. It is better to work with short touches, about 2 – 4 s, with breaks for the same time. In this case, excess heat has time to be removed by the body of the drill and the risk of overheating the edge is reduced.

For working on soft materials without impact, such as brick or tiles, the cutting edges are brought “to zero”, without a jumper, and their sharpening angle is reduced to 30–35 0.

How to hold the drill while processing

Since, according to the conditions of the task, we do not have devices for precise positioning of drills, all hope is for own hands. There are several simple techniques to achieve a “steady hand.”

It is best if, when sharpening a drill, you can rest it on a tool rest - a special “table” fixed in front of the sharpener. If, with direct support on the support, it is not possible to achieve desired position, you can hold the workpiece in your hands, but be sure to rest it:

fingers on the rest;
with your wrist or hand on a workbench, on your knee, on any stable and conveniently located object;
elbow or forearm on a workbench or knee.

As a last resort, you can simply press your elbows to your sides, forming a triangle with your arms and torso. But in any case, you need to find a way to hold the tool as tightly as possible with minimal effort.

When fixing the drill during operation, you should remember its position not only visually, but also by the sensations in your hands. Muscular, kinesthetic memory may be more accurate than visual control.

Sharpening a drill for metal

When sharpening drills for metal, only the back surfaces of the cutting edges are ground down. These surfaces have a rounded shape (with a drill diameter of less than 3 mm - flat) with a decrease relative to the edge of about 10 0. The cutting edges converge to the top of the drill at an angle of 116 - 120 0 (sharpening angle). For brass, copper, soft bronze, this angle is increased to 125–130 0, for aluminum - up to 140 0.

Sharpening

When sharpening, the drill is held with both hands. One near the sharpener, the other by the shank. The fingers of the hand closest to the sharpener (leading) rest on the rest. If it is not there, you need to find any support, as described above.

The drill is positioned at an angle to work surface whetstone: 60 0 horizontally (half the angle at the apex) and about 10 0 vertically. The sharpened cutting edge is directed upward and located horizontally, parallel to the axis of the stone. The position can be selected when the machine is turned off, according to the shape of the gaps between the edge and the sharpener when viewed from above, and between the sharpener and the back surface when viewed from the side. To more accurately set the sharpening angle, you can draw a clearly visible line on the tool rest at the desired angle.

When sharpening, the drill is pressed against the sharpener by the cutting edge, and then, without changing the pressure and horizontal angle, it is tilted with the shank down until the back surface is completely processed. In this case, the position of the leading hand does not change. After 1–3 such passes, the drill is rotated around the longitudinal axis by 180 0, and the operation is repeated for the second edge. The tool is rotated only with your fingers, without changing the position of your hands.

After sharpening, you need to check the symmetry of the edges - the equality of their lengths and angles of inclination to the axis of the drill. If one of the edges is shorter, it needs to be sharpened again. The equality of the angles is checked visually - against the light or using a simple template; the length of the edges can be measured with a caliper.

Additional processing

When sharpened correctly, the cutting edges do not meet at the top; a short bridge remains between them. To reduce resistance to entry into the material, the bridge is ground off with the angle of a sharpening stone or a diamond file. Grinding is carried out on both sides, symmetrically, at an acute angle to the drill axis, and the edge of the resulting groove is located at an angle of 30 0 to the cutting edge. The purpose of this operation is to shorten the jumper, but not to grind it off completely! Without it, the drill will not be centered upon entry.

The lintel is stitched using drills with a diameter of more than 3 mm. But in practice, for simple work Without high loads, the jumper, as a rule, is not ground down even with a diameter of 10 mm or more.

Checking the sharpness

After sharpening, you need to check the tool in operation and, if necessary, correct it. There are several signs that indicate sharpening errors.

Poor alignment at the entrance; during operation, beating is noticeable - asymmetrical sharpening of edges or bridges.
When working, you can hear the squeal of metal, the drill gets very hot, the chips look like small grains - a large angle of sharpening the edge, insufficient lowering of the back surface (blunt edges).
Increased rotational force, chips quickly form on the cutting edges - the sharpening angle of the edges is too small (excessively sharp edges).

Signs of proper sharpening:

clear centering at entry, stable operation, no beats;
entrance to light material, the chips come out in the form of identical “spirals” from both grooves;
The heating of the drill is low.

Wood drill sharpening

For drilling wood and wood materials There are several types of drills. Here we will consider the most universal and common - spiral.

Features of drilling wood

A twist drill for wood differs little in design from its counterpart for metal. Even the cutting part may be the same. But wood has a fibrous structure. When drilling it, the cutters in different directions interact with the material differently. The consequence of this may be scuffing and chipping on the surface of the workpiece. To avoid this and get a neat straight hole, use special sharpening of the drill, with a center and trimmers.

The first to come into contact with the material is the centerpiece - a narrow spike located along the axis of the drill. As it goes deeper, it centers the tool and keeps it from moving laterally. Then the scorers come into play - the side incisors protruding above the cutting edges. They cut wood fibers along the contour of the hole and prevent the spread of flakes beyond its boundaries. Outlined, actually isolated material, is removed by the main blades.

Geometry of the working part

The angles of inclination of the center faces to the drill axis are 10 0, the inclination of the inner edges of the scorers is 30 0, the outer edges of the scorers coincide with the side surface of the drill. The angle of depression of the rear surface of the cutting edges is 25 0 . The height of the centerpiece and scorers above the cutting edges depends on the diameter of the drill, but the scorers are always lower.

For example, a drill with a diameter of 10 mm should have a center height of 3.5–4.5 mm, and scorers should be 1 mm high. The width of the base of the center is about 1.5 mm. For recommended parameters for different diameters, see Tables 1 and 2 of Appendix 1 to GOST 22053-76.

What to sharpen

To perform such a complex sharpening you need a stone special form. If you have a “pencil” for straightening abrasive discs, you can give a standard sharpening disc a trapezoidal profile (grind one edge to a cone) and use this stone for sharpening only wood drills.

You can also use a grinder disc by installing it on a sharpening machine. For different mounting diameters, an adapter can be ordered. Another option is to use a grinder. But it must be securely fastened.

Sharpening is a familiar job

The process of sharpening a wood drill is, in principle, no different from sharpening other drills. The same techniques are used for selecting the desired angles, fixing the tool and controlling symmetry. If you just need to sharpen a dull drill, then with good equipment there should not be any big difficulties. If you need to make a wood drill from a standard one, then you should first practice on old drills, which you don’t mind using lime for training.

Drills are used to drill a hole in a metal or wooden part. However, they require sharpening during operation. If you do not sharpen the drill, then working with it will take a long time, and the quality of the hole will be unsatisfactory. We'll talk about methods for sharpening drills for wood and metal later.

Features of choosing a drill for wood and metal

In the process of choosing a particular drill, you should first of all visually inspect it. There should be no cracks, chips or other deformations on its surface; it should be smooth and even. In relation to the color of this device, the type of final processing is determined, which affects the strength and service life of the drill.

Black drills have excellent performance characteristics, since they are processed using steam. If the color of the drill is yellow or gold, then it is treated with titanium plating. This process allows the drill to release excess stress. In addition, the service life of the drill increases significantly.

Drill gray indicates that it was not processed, therefore operational properties such instruments are at a low level. When you buy a drill, you receive a set of drills that differ in diameter, length and type of use.

Most often, drills are divided into tools used for drilling holes:

on concrete surfaces;
on wooden surfaces;
on metal surfaces.

Each type of drill is different individual indicators appearance and colors. For drilling wooden surfaces, drills in the form of a feather, snake or spiral are used.

The most common diameter of a screw drill for wood is from three to fifty-two millimeters. This tool has a double tape that ensures precision hole drilling. In this case, slipping of the drill during operation is excluded. To remove chips, the drill has holes in the spiral through which it exits. It is suitable for drilling holes for dowels, solid and wooden slabs, plywood sheets, etc.

The serpentine version of the drill is distinguished by the presence of a carefully polished and milled spiral. It is used to make holes in parts made of veneer.

The drill bit for wood is different wide scope applications. It is easy to use and also has various diameters. Used for both drilling soft wood, and for more hard rocks wood. Spade drill for wood - excellent and universal option for drilling almost any hole.

Screw drills provide drilling against the grain of the wood. The diameters of screw-type drills for metal and wood vary from one to five centimeters. The length of such a drill is from four to ten centimeters.

The quality of the resulting hole is determined, first of all, by the correct choice of drill for a particular material, as well as the level of sharpening of this drill.

Sharpening a wood drill: work plan

In answering the question of how to sharpen a wood drill, there are many nuances that should be taken into account. First of all, you should determine whether the drill is really dull; perhaps the reason is its breakage or wear. Signs that a wood drill needs additional sharpening are, first of all, the fact that the work of drilling a hole takes much longer, the holes are uneven and of poor quality. Also, such a drill heats up very quickly and becomes deformed when exposed to too much temperature.

If you have no experience in sharpening wood drills, we recommend that you initially practice on old and already worn drills. If sharpening is performed incorrectly, further operation or restoration of the drill will be impossible. A large diameter wood drill bit can be sharpened better than drill bits used for drilling metal surfaces. Since wood drills are made from more pliable and soft materials. In this case, household tools are sufficient to sharpen such a drill.

During the sharpening process, you will need to have sharpening machine and a container of water used to cool the drill. Water will prevent overheating of the steel and deformation of the drill during the sharpening process.

If you do not have a machine for sharpening drills, then use a regular file. However, in this case, the sharpening process will last several times longer. The main rule high-quality sharpening long wood drills, compliance correct proportions And geometric shapes. That is, the shape of the drill should be exactly the same as after its purchase. A ring drill for wood must be sharpened to a certain sharpening angle.

When using the sharpening machine, in this case, you should carefully place the drill against the sharpening disk. To ensure that the required values are as accurate as possible, use additional accessories. This may be a device into which a drill is installed and clamped.

Thus, the drill is located in a special mechanism and the risk of burns due to its heating is reduced. In addition, in order to avoid injuring your hands, mandatory Wear gloves before sharpening. After preliminary sharpening, the edge is gradually brought to a smooth shape and ideal condition. This is done using the same machine, but at low speeds. After finishing, the drill can be used for its intended purpose.

If sharpening is done correctly, the service life of the drill increases significantly.

Sharpening a wood drill video at the end of the article.

The technology for sharpening a wood drill involves performing the following actions:

1. The sharpening angle of the wood drill is ninety-five degrees. This value must be maintained.

2. The drill is installed exclusively on the edge of the sharpening machine.

3. In order to increase the accuracy of work, we recommend installing a drill inside a special tool, for example, a washer.

4. Tuck its back edges a few millimeters, making sure each edge is even.

5. After sharpening, you should reduce the speed on the machine and continue working.

6. Try to keep the bridge on the drill very thin. Thus, the ease of working with the tool increases. If the drill is too thin, then the jumper does not need to be sharpened.

Types and sharpening of metal drills

Metal drill bits vary in thickness, size, shape or application. A spiral drill for metal can be:

a conical drill for metal is distinguished by the presence of a conical shank; a conical drill for metal has a diameter of six to sixty millimeters;
a step drill for metal is rare;
metal drill with a cylindrical shank;
long square metal drill bit.

In relation to the final processing of metal drills, there are:

raw differ standard color steel;
processed with steam, have a black color;
golden color, capable of transmitting excess voltage;
Titanium drills have a bright yellow color.

For drill manufacturing for metal, high-speed steel, tool steel with cobalt additives, alloy steel are used, special types metals

Cylindrical twist drills are used to process aluminum, copper, zinc or magnesium alloys. Titanium alloys are processed using special equipment and A-class drills.

Conical metal drills are used for drilling carbide metals. They differ in relation to the grade and type of steel from which they are made. The processing of a particular metal depends on the sharpening angle of the drill. At the same time, there are the following requirements for the sharpening angle of a drill for metal:

if the drill is made of soft or non-ferrous metal, then the sharpening angle is from eighty to ninety degrees;
if the metal has an average degree of hardness and for cast iron metals, the sharpening angle is from one hundred sixteen to one hundred and twenty degrees;
for very hard steel, the sharpening angle of the drill is one hundred thirty one hundred and forty degrees.

How to sharpen a drill for metal: technology and features of sharpening

During the operation of any drill, it becomes faulty and needs to be sharpened. In order to save money on purchasing a new drill, especially if it is made of high-quality steel, we recommend sharpening it.

Metal drills, unlike wood drills, are made of high-quality steel, the sharpening of which requires special skills in working with sharpening machine. The most optimal and common drill diameter is sixteen millimeters. The most in a simple way To sharpen such a drill is to use a sharpening wheel. If there is no such equipment in the garage, then you should install the drill in an electric drill, fix it in a stationary position, take a grinding stone and start sharpening.

Please note that you should wear a protective mask over your eyes and gloves on your hands, as the drill gets too hot during the sharpening process. Prepare a small container of liquid that will gradually cool.

Water can be replaced with machine oil. If you do not cool the drill during operation, it will be exposed to high temperature deformed.

The sharpening process must be sequential, first the back of the surface should be processed. Try to keep the drill bit tight to the surface. Watch the sharpening angle of the drill, it should be at the same level. If you examine the drill from the side, it should resemble a cone shape.

Next, you should process the cutting part of the drill. Also, it is necessary to maintain a certain angle of the drill. Next, you should finally finish the back surface. Follow the direction of the jumper; it should be no larger than 0.4 mm in size for small drills. If the diameter of the drill is large, then the jumper can be up to one centimeter.

Before starting work, we recommend practicing on old drills. After gaining the skills to work with a grinding wheel, proceed to the actual sharpening of the drill. Please note that drilling is not done with the tip itself, but with its sides, so they must also be perfectly sharpened.

If the drill has a pobedit tip, then the technology for sharpening it is slightly different from the standard one. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations for sharpening a metal drill:

try to keep the edge of the drill parallel to the working surface of the grinding wheel or stone;
sharpening should be done gradually, do not press the drill onto the circle;
try to keep the edges the same length;
The high quality of sharpening of a drill for metal is evidenced by the surface of the drill, on which there are no reflections.

The first sharpening option is single-plane. This sharpening is used if the diameter of the drill does not exceed three millimeters. This technique be carried out with extreme care, otherwise the drill may crumble. The tool is placed on the circle and moves in parallel with its movements.

If the diameter of the drill exceeds three millimeters, then a conical sharpening should be used. In this case, the drill must be held with two hands, gradually sharpening its feathers. The drill presses easily against the stone and wobbles a little during the sharpening process.

After sharpening the drill, it is necessary to perform fine-tuning. With its help, it will be possible to get rid of small nicks and grind the edge. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a special soft stone.

Please note that the person sharpening must have good eyesight. Also, during the work process it is necessary to organize good lighting. In order to ensure greater sharpening accuracy, it is necessary to make a special tool. It will help fix the drill in a stationary position in relation to the grinding wheel.

Sharpening a drill for metal video:

Wood is a material that is easily processed various instruments. One of their types may be a drill. You have to use a drill quite often when processing material.

The holes that need to be drilled can be of different diameters, as well as blind or through.

For small sizes, a metal tool is usually used, but for larger diameters, a specialized large-diameter wood drill is used.

There are several types:

There are, but are rarely used, drills for cutting conical tenons, cork drills, etc., etc. Let's look at some of them.

Twisted or single-stranded

A spiral, or screw, wood drill is available with two types of working tips: conical and special scoring tips. The basis is a cylindrical rod, the working part of which is formed by screws spiral grooves. The grooves effectively remove chips during operation.

Used to perform deep holes. Using this tool, the holes are even, smooth and neat.

Ballerina

It is an adjustable device with cutters. The gimlet in the center carries out preliminary drilling, and the cutters cut around the circumference. When setting the desired diameter, the cutters move along the guide at the same distance from the gimlet and are securely fixed.

Due to the design features You can't make deep holes. Maximum size the holes do not exceed 300 millimeters.

Crown

Used for drilling shallow through holes. A disk is used as a base, in the center of which a spiral gimlet is installed. Saw blades are installed in special places. Usually produced in sets with canvases of different sizes up to 100 mm.

Forstner drill bit for wood

The Forstner drill is mainly used for furniture production, for drilling holes of precise diameter. It makes it easy to make a blind hole. Milling cutters are available with different working surface diameters: 10, 16, 24, 27, 32, 36, 38, 40, 45, 50 (mm). The price depends on the diameter, the larger it is, the higher the price.

It is a drill consisting of a cylindrical shank with two cutting edges and a circumferential edge. The cutter is characterized by perfectly smooth hole edges and a long service life.

Feather drill

Quite often, feather drills are used for drilling any type of wood.

Feather drill Designed for making through holes of different diameters. Of course, you can drill with other types of drills, but The advantage of a feather drill is as follows:

low price;
good diameter selection step;
easy to use, no pre-coring required;
high performance;
possibility of using an extension cord.

The disadvantages include the quality of work and fairly rapid wear of the cutting parts, and therefore are usually used for rough operations that do not require a clean surface.

What is a drill?

Structurally, the drill is made in the form of a rod. Upper part The rod is a hexagon designed to be clamped into the drilling head. The lower part, the working one, has the shape of a blade, which has two specially shaped cutting blades sharpened on its sides. Thanks to this shape, the blade cuts into the wood, removing chips around the circumference. To ensure that the drill is stable during operation, a centering point is made at its very center below the blade.

By their type, drills can be single-sided or double-sided. The bevel angle of the cutter for one-sided is 70-90 degrees, and for double-sided it is 115-135 degrees.

The drill has a standard length of 150 mm. Using a special extension, the depth can be increased to thirty centimeters.

So, The following parts of the tool can be distinguished:

At points of sale you can purchase both a set of feather drills for wood and single ones. They are produced different sizes diameter On the blade there is a number indicating the diameter of the hole in millimeters that it can make, for example, 50. The maximum usable diameter is sixty millimeters. No longer produced, as the tool would simply break under such a load. The most popular set consists of diameters: 10, 12, 16, 18, 20, 25 (mm).

The tool is distinguished by color:

Golden. The material was processed with internal pressure removal.
Dark. Heated steam treatment was carried out to increase the strength of the material.
Bright gold. The surface is coated with titanium nitride, which increases the service life of the tool.
Steel. No additional processing.

Features of use

It is better to use such a drill with a drill that has adjustable speed. They must be set to medium mode, since when working at high speeds, the likelihood of drill breakage increases. It should be noted that the larger the diameter of the drill, the lower the rotation speed should be set.

During operation, the middle of the drill should be set strictly perpendicular to the workpiece, the pressing force is light. The chips that appear in the hole created, due to the design of the drill, must be periodically removed. If this is not done, it will become impossible to control the drilling process, and the load on the drill and tool will also increase.

I would like to highlight such an interesting tool as an adjustable pen drill. This tool allows you to make holes with a diameter of 22 to 76 mm. Such a device is very convenient to use for non-standard diameters, for example, 23 mm, 52 mm, etc. Work is exclusively carried out at low rotation speeds, using a power tool.

How to sharpen a feather drill?

As mentioned above, the disadvantage of a pen tool is the rapid wear of the cutting edges, but at the same time, sharpening them yourself is not difficult.

Any abrasive material can be used for sharpening. Sharpening can be done manually or on a machine. It is best to sharpen the cutters according to the pattern, and try to sharpen the tip in the center. When sharpening a pen drill for woodworking, you must be very careful not to accidentally damage the tip.

After finishing the sharpening process, it is necessary to perform a test drilling and, if necessary, correct cutting blades or alignment.

To summarize, it should be noted: the choice of tool will primarily depend on the requirements for the quality of work when processing the material, as well as technological conditions. For one-time work, you can use a cheap tool, while for permanent work it is better to use drills produced by well-known manufacturers Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Heller. They are executed from quality materials, which will ensure a clean cut and a longer service life.

Twist drills must be sharpened along the back edges. It is worth noting that both cutting teeth should be treated in the same way. Don't forget that you need to sharpen the tool's feathers the same way, and creating the desired configuration of the back edge by hand is quite difficult.

It is customary to use special machines for sharpening. However, at home you can use a regular sharpener as a sharpening tool.

Depending on the shape of the back surface, there can be several types of sharpening:

Single-plane.
Two-plane.
Conical.
Cylindrical.
Screw.

In the first case, sharpening of the rear surface of the cutting blade is performed in the form of a continuous plane. Typically, the clearance angle should vary between 27-31 degrees. With single-plane sharpening, there is a high probability of chipping the cutting edge. This method must be done manually using a gimlet with a diameter of 2-3 mm.

Universal drills with a diameter of more than 3 mm are usually subjected to conical sharpening.

In order to more clearly demonstrate the features of such sharpening, let's look at the diagram.

The illustration shows the grinding wheel, the back surface of the gimlet and the cutting edge.

Imagine a cone whose generatrix is directed along the cutting edge of the drill and the end of the grinding wheel. The angle at the top of the figure is 26 degrees. The axis of the cutting tool intersects with the axis geometric figure and forms an angle of 45 degrees. It can be seen from the figure that if you begin to rotate the gimlet around the axis of the cone, a conical surface is formed on the rear edge. If the axis of the cutting tool and the imaginary cone are in the same plane, the clearance angle of the drill will be zero.

In order to form the correct back angle, it is necessary to slightly shift the axis of the gimlet in relation to the cone. The larger the offset, the larger the clearance angle will be.

It is no secret that it is practically impossible to comply with all these conditions when sharpening by hand. But if you still decide to sharpen the drill yourself, proceed as follows:

Take the drill that will be sharpened by the working part with your left hand. With your right hand, grab the ponytail.
Then press the cutting edge and back surface of the gimlet against the end of the grinding wheel.
After this, with smooth movements right hand, without lifting the drill from the whetstone, rock it. This will create a conical surface at the rear end.
Repeat this operation for the second pen.

The next sharpening method will be a little easier.

As in the previous method, take the working part of the gimlet with your left hand and the tail with your right hand.
Press the cutting edge of the tool against the grinding wheel and rotate the drill around its axis. It is very important not to tear the gimlet away from the sharpening machine and maintain the desired angle of inclination to the end of the grinding wheel.

As a result of sharpening, conical surfaces should form on the back surface of the cutting feathers. It is no secret that due to friction with the grinding wheel, the tool overheats. This leads to the tempering of the hardened part of the drill. As a result, the metal begins to gradually lose the necessary hardness. Therefore, it is better to sharpen with repeated cooling of the gimlet.

As a coolant for ordinary drills (for example, for wood), you can use simple distilled water or a water-soda solution.

However, you should not use it if your tool is made of carbide materials (for example, concrete drills). Also, under no circumstances should you use oil to cool the drill.

If you sharpen a tool dry without cooling, you need to remember a few rules:

Do not remove too much metal in one pass.
The rotation speed of the grinding wheel should be moderate.
Do not overheat the gimlet.
Sharpen the tool against the movement of the grinding wheel. This is necessary so that the cutting edge of the drill does not break off or become wrinkled during operation.

Is finishing required after sharpening the drill?

As practice shows, without fine-tuning it is impossible to achieve smooth surface cutting tool and remove small roughness. In addition, drills that are fine-tuned become wear-resistant.

For finishing, it is best to use grinding wheels made of green silicon carbide. During the finishing process, it is very important to ensure that the axes are symmetrical. The cutting feathers must be the same length and have the same apex angles.

It is worth noting that the correct sharpening of the gimlet must be checked using special templates. They are made from sheets of the following metals:

Copper.
Aluminum.
Titan.

Using a template, you can check the point angles and the length of the cutting feathers. The clearance angle is almost impossible to measure, so your best bet is to observe the angle of the point.

If the cutting edges have uneven length and slope, loads of different modulus appear over the entire surface of the tool. Because of this, the drill will wear out faster. Therefore, immediately after sharpening, perform a test drilling. It will help you determine the uniformity of the cutting edge feathers.

How to sharpen a wood drill correctly

Wood drill bits are less susceptible to wear than metal cutting tools. To sharpen a drill for wood, you need to get a sharpening machine. Don't forget to stock up on water. It will be needed as a cooler.

In the absence of a machine, wood drills can be sharpened even with a file, but this process will be long and painstaking.

You can also adapt for this a homemade machine from a drill, into the chuck of which a circle with fine emery cloth is clamped.

Basic rules for sharpening

When sharpening, be sure to observe the geometric dimensions and configuration of the cutting tool. If you use a sharpener to sharpen a wood drill bit, use the edge of the sharpening wheel to sharpen the entire process.
To avoid hand burns, use protective gloves.
After you have completed the preliminary sharpening, you need to bring the cutting edge to perfect condition. To do this, reduce the speed of the grinding wheel. Do not forget that you need to remove chips only along the body of the drill.

In conclusion, we note that sharpening drills is easy to do at home.

For correct processing cutting tools for metal and wood, it is necessary to ensure compliance with geometric configurations. Also, do not forget to cool the drill from time to time.

The modern market offers buyers huge amount drills different types. Some of them are used exclusively for wooden structures, let's figure out how to choose them correctly and how to sharpen a wood drill in the best way.

Features of choosing a drill for wood

When it becomes necessary to choose the right drill, the first thing you need to pay attention to is the color. So, for example, each shade of the product is responsible for the type of final processing, which shows the life of the drill and its strength.

The worst option can be considered gray products, which are not processed in any way and their performance parameters are quite low.
The color can be golden, which indicates titanium coating and is quite long term operation.
Black drills treated with steam during creation are no worse in performance.

In addition, it is worth carefully visually examining the object. If there are visible signs of deformation on it, then it is better not to use such a product. It is important to choose a drill without a single scratch or crack; its surface should be perfectly flat and smooth.

Types of wood drills

Usually high-quality drills are used experienced craftsmen who require various types products for creating holes in wood. These could be holes, for example, for tenons, bolts or dowels. Moreover, the drilling process itself can be very diverse in quality, which will lead to thoughts about how to properly sharpen the drill after use and whether it will have to be sharpened at all.

The most common types of drills today include: screw, spiral, feather, center, ring and Forstner drills.

Screw

If you need to drill wood across the grain, without once again asking yourself the question of how to properly sharpen a drill for wood, then it will come in handy screw drill with fine thread at the end. They can reach up to 50 millimeters in diameter. A special screw shape will help remove chips from the work site in a timely manner and thus not overheat the rod. Depending on the required hole depth, you can purchase drills longer than a centimeter, with a minimum size of 400 millimeters.

Screw drills for wood

Spiral

A spiral product can immediately be distinguished by a perfectly polished milled spiral with an edge that prevents any movement of the rod to the side during operation. It is thanks to the spiral shape that they can easily drill holes in veneer structures. The diameter of the corresponding drills reaches 52 millimeters, and the smallest can be found at 3 millimeters. In order to accurately target the intended drilling location, the tail of the product is equipped with a conical shape, which gives a lot of convenience.

If, when purchasing, the choice fell on twist drills, then you should always remember the relationship between the diameter of the product and maximum quantity rpm it can produce. Otherwise, the service life of the product will be sharply reduced. If you need to process hard wooden surfaces, it is better to set a maximum of 900 rpm with a drill diameter of 14 millimeters or less. But for soft wood can be set to 1800 rpm on the drilling tool.

Twist drill bit set for wood

Feathers

The most common type of drill is the feather drill. It is this that makes you think about how to sharpen a feather drill for wood, and is most often used for repair and construction work. It is the most convenient and has various options in diameter.

He only has one important drawback: this shape of the drill does not facilitate chip removal and the drilling process is significantly complicated, especially when a hole with a large depth is required. That is why experts recommend using this type of drill when working with wood boards or thick boards, where the drilling process will occur as efficiently as possible.

A special type of tip for a feather drill or a similar product with an extension can correct the situation. This extension has a hexagonal shape and can be used for other types of drills. In this case, the diameter of the final hole can reach up to 52 millimeters.

Feather drills for wood

Center and ring

But center drills are useful for creating perfectly straight through holes in wooden surface. Typically, such products take the form of a 50 mm (minimum 12 mm) rod with a cutting edge at the bottom, reaching a length of up to 150 mm. Of course, it will not be possible to make deep enough holes. For this purpose, ring drills are suitable, which look similar to a crown or a ring with teeth. They are usually sold as a whole set in the form of attachments with a centering drill and a single base.

Forstner drills

When it comes to repairing or creating furniture, and not about thoughts with the question of how to sharpen a feather drill for wood, then you can immediately safely go for Forstner drills, which are best suited for this task. They allow you to drill completely blind holes with a perfectly flat bottom. In this case, the diameter of the product reaches from 10 to 50 millimeters. The drill itself is coated with a specialized alloy, which serves as protection and increases service life.

Forstner wood drill bit

Correct sharpening of the drill

Before you start directly sharpening an expensive and high-quality drill, you should try your skills on old, used products. Thus, if the result is negative, the old drill can always be used consumables. When your hand is full, you can switch to a new drill without fear.

For the most correct implementation When sharpening a wood drill, its geometric parameters must be observed. This means that it is important to maintain the factory sharpening angle. Sometimes the result can be just like this - perfectly sharpened for a hammer drill. The drill itself can be processed either manually or using an electric sharpener.

Device for sharpening drills at home

Manual sharpening

When sharpening by hand, a mild steel file is used. Moreover, it is worth starting the processing process with a tool with a wide notch pitch, processing both the cutting edge and reverse side. After this, you can bring the drill to perfect condition using a file with a fine notch.

Sharpening with an electric sharpener

When sharpening a drill occurs in “automatic” mode using an electric sharpener, it is very important to have a cold water(in a container or flow-through), since it is necessary to constantly cool the rod. This will keep the product from overheating and damage.

With this option, the drill should be sharpened on the edge of the sharpening disk.

Once the required drill geometry has been achieved, it is worth finishing the drill at low speeds.

Homemade drill sharpening machine

If you don’t have a sharpening machine at hand, you can easily make one yourself.

It is necessary to firmly install the grinder in a comfortable position. A stationary frame with a motor speed of up to 1500 rpm (with a power of 200 W) is also suitable.
Basis for homemade machine Thick plywood or wooden beams may well serve.
For more correct sharpening, it is necessary to eliminate any vibration of the engine and create conditions for a smooth transition to different speeds. To achieve this result, you can use an abrasive wheel.

Step-by-step instructions for sharpening a drill

The result of the above actions is a certain scheme of actions:

Guide the drill to the edge of the grinding machine disk.
Mandatory adherence to the factory sharpening angle of 95 degrees.
To improve the quality of sharpening, the drill should be secured in a washer, the rear edges of which should be tucked a couple of millimeters.
Once sharpening is completed, it is worth continuing work at lower speeds.
After this, you can cool the sharpened product and test it for functionality.

When sharpening a drill, it is important to understand that a person must have very good eyesight. Therefore for best result It is necessary to organize high-quality lighting of the work place. If the rules are strictly followed, a sharpened drill will last a very long time and will always be a “savior” during repair or construction work.