How to propagate lilacs by cuttings in the fall. Methods for propagating different varieties of lilac at home How common lilac propagates

In early to mid-May, our parks and summer cottages are filled with the aroma of lilacs. Elegant brushes of flowers in various shades of purple and snow-white create the impression of a holiday. Botanists have counted about 30 of its species. Often, when you see a beautiful bush, you want to grow the same one on your site. But how can it be propagated? In our article we will reveal for you the secrets of lilac propagation.

What does lilac prefer?

Having set out to grow the variety you like in your dacha, you should know that lilacs have their own breeding characteristics, which should not be neglected.

Lilac loves to be warmed by the sun, a lot of light, and most importantly, it needs freedom. Any soil, even not too fertile, is even more suitable for her, but what she cannot tolerate is stagnant moisture, so drainage is necessary. Does not like lilacs and drafts.

In general, to avoid problems with lilacs, plant them in an area with not too rich nutrients soil and maintain moderate moisture. Most varieties of lilac are self-sufficient and do not need fertilizers, which can only slow down development.

Reproduction methods

Lilacs can be propagated both by seeds and vegetatively. Let's look at everything in detail.

Cuttings

Both green and woody cuttings are suitable for propagation. They are harvested at different periods - green during the flowering period of the bush, woody - when the wood has matured. Let us first dwell on the method of propagating lilacs using green cuttings:

We cut cuttings from green shoots with 4 to 6 leaves. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to choose flowering branches for this purpose or only faded plant, located at an angle to the vertical shoots. The length of the cutting is 150 mm, there are 3 pairs of buds. Leave the leaves.
Before planting, use pruning shears or sharp scissors to remove leaves from the lower pair of buds.
Stepping back a little from the knot, we make an oblique cut.
The leaves that are higher than the harvested ones are shortened by 50%.
Cut the top of the cutting in a straight line.
We treat the shoots prepared for planting with some kind of root growth stimulator, heteroauxin, for example, by dissolving 200 mg of it in a liter of water. We keep the planting material in the solution for about 18 hours.
Preparing the landing site; We dig a hole, arrange a drainage about 12 cm thick. Place a 20 cm layer of humus on top and cover it with 5 cm of soil, compact the pie and water it with water.
We plant the cuttings in a row, leaving a 5 cm gap between them. We make the next row, retreating from the first by 10 cm.
We moisten the planting, build a half-meter frame, and cover it with film.
We water once every 7 days, remove the leaves that begin to fall off during the rooting process.
After 1-1.5 months, we ventilate the greenhouse, just at this time roots will begin to form.
We remove the film and keep the cuttings open until autumn, not forgetting to water them and remove any weeds that appear.
We transplant to permanent place strong plants, and leave the weak ones in the greenhouse under cover until spring.

Sometimes cuttings are rooted not in a greenhouse, but in pots or boxes. In any case, as a rule, there will not be 100% rooting. Typically, half of the material suitable for planting is obtained from total number blanks

In order to grow lilacs from woody cuttings, you should prepare them in the fall or winter. They are cut from annual branches, then buried in wet sand and taken out to a cold basement, and in the case of winter harvesting, the cuttings are simply buried in the snow. In spring, they are treated in the same way as with green cuttings. You should know that this type of cuttings takes root very poorly.

Lilacs propagated in this way will be covered with flowers in 5 years.

Root shoots

The method of propagating lilacs by root shoots is the simplest and does not require much effort. A plant with good roots is obtained immediately, it is strong, develops quickly and fully retains the characteristics of the variety.

The seedling is separated from the mother bush in the fall in September or, in extreme cases, before October 15. At this time, the intensity of sap flow is significantly reduced and injury to the donor bush will be minimal. It's better if the day is cloudy. Before carrying out the procedure, water the bush well and do everything carefully, because... The roots of the shoots are tender and fragile.

By layering

Lilac propagation by layering is carried out in 3 ways:

simple abduction;
Chinese;
Dahlemsky

The essence of simple diversion is that in the spring one-year-old shoots are selected, bent to the ground, pinned and covered with earth. Throughout the season they make sure there is enough moisture. Separate bushes that have taken root only for the 4th year.

Technology Chinese way is this:

Early in the spring, after allowing the soil to dry out a little, furrows are made around a 3 or 4 year old lilac bush to a depth of about 20 mm.
The strongest annual shoots are placed in prepared places and fixed at 2-3 points.
Take copper wire with a diameter of no more than 50 mm and pull the shoots, wrapping them 2-3 times in front of the buds tightly enough so that the wire does not slip.
Cover the shoots with a layer loose soil. Vertical shoots will grow from the nodes.
They begin to hill up the shoots as soon as they rise 15 centimeters. At the same time, cover half of their height with earth. Until autumn, this operation is repeated 3 times. As a result, the thickness of the earthen layer will reach 25 cm.
Water regularly, but so as not to wash away the soil around the plants.
In September, the soil around the bushes is removed, and the cuttings with roots are cut off and placed for growing. They are moved to a permanent place after 2-3 years.

When propagating using the Dahlem method, there is more hassle, because you first need to select a bush for propagation, then, before the cold weather, cut off all the branches on it to the very base. Moreover, it is advisable to repeat this procedure 2 years in a row. Only after this, when the shoots on the bush grow to 20 cm and begin to ripen in the lower part, do the following manipulations:

Under the first sufficiently developed buds, cut the bark across or wrap the shoot around 3 times with wire in the same place. This is necessary to stimulate root growth. Some of the shoots on the bush are left untouched so as not to weaken its vital activity.
Bury the shoot halfway with soil. Subsequently, soil is added as the new plant grows, so that ½ of its height is underground at all times.
They dig up the bushes in the fall, grow them, and transplant them into a specially designated place.

Seeds

This method is used to grow a rootstock for grafting some kind of valuable variety lilac or to obtain a new variety. To propagate lilacs by seeds, they are collected late in the fall. Once collected, they are dried until the doors open. Then they are subject to stratification, for which they take three times more wet sand per part of the seeds, place the mixture in a container and store it in the refrigerator in a vegetable drawer for 2 months.

In March, the seeds are planted in a container. The soil must be steamed to avoid infection of weak plants. If you have collected seeds common lilac, then they will sprout in 2 weeks, but the Amur lilac shoots will have to wait 2 or 3 months.

Then, after 14 days, the seedlings are picked, and in May they are moved to a permanent place.

They also practice sowing seeds directly into the ground. They do this closer to winter, when the first snow falls. In the spring, when they sprout and grow a little, they are picked and grown.

You can propagate lilacs using any of these methods, but remember:

If you make layering, then from bushes with their own roots. Sometimes this happens with grafted lilacs, if the branches located above the scion are close enough to the ground.
When propagating lilacs by seeds, do not expect to get the same variety from which you collected them. Something completely inconspicuous may grow, or, on the contrary, something more beautiful than the original.
Lilac care is necessary at the very beginning, and then all you have to do is admire the fruits of your labor.

As you know, gardeners are passionate people. It happens that when you see a new plant on a neighboring plot, you get excited about the idea of getting your favorite specimen.

Today we will talk about lilacs and how you can easily replenish your collection of varieties of this beautiful plant on your site. I have been using the method of propagating lilacs by cuttings for a long time - it is very convenient, because you can grow new bush even from a branch from a bouquet. In addition, this way you can get several identical individuals at once.

Lilac is one of the most beautiful ornamental shrubs, growing on personal plots. It can be propagated using layering, young shoots, grafting and cuttings. For successful grafting, the summer resident must already have some experience in gardening.

With the help of young growth and layering it is easy to increase the number of your own plants, but varieties from another habitat are best propagated by cuttings. It is advisable to resort to this method towards the end of spring or early summer.

It should be mentioned that lilac is a difficult-to-root crop. To succeed, you will have to pay attention to some fundamentally important requirements:

Choose the most suitable time for taking cuttings - during the flowering period of lilacs or after its completion. Early in the morning, green branches of lilac are cut off; it is useless to take woody shoots - they will not take root;
Select future cuttings from the very middle of a young bush that has not reached six years of age. Pieces are cut from the middle part of the branch 10-15 cm long with two or three buds. Tops, i.e. branches extending from powerful branches are not suitable for cuttings. Also keep in mind that only cuttings prepared no earlier than a day ago will take root.
Support optimal level temperature and humidity are from 22 to 25 degrees above zero and 95-100%, respectively.

Subtleties of spring lilac cuttings

Using this technique, some varieties of lilac can be grown in just one season. The procedure includes several important steps:

Selection suitable material for reproduction and its preparation;
Direct cutting process;
Pre-planting treatment;
Preparation of the planting pit;
Planting cuttings;
Rules of care at the time of rooting;
Relocation of rooted seedlings for growing.

Rules for selecting shoots for the cutting procedure and their preparation

It is important that the mother lilac bush is not too old, because the older it is, the more difficult the rooting procedure is. The mother plant should not be less than three years old or more than six years old.

You should not expect rooting from too large, so-called fatty branches. Vertical powerful stems - tops - are also not suitable. Take a closer look at the medium-thick green branches growing to the side - they are the ideal material for preparing cuttings.

Since lilacs take root difficultly, gardeners often come up with various tricks to increase the ability of cuttings to take root. Etiolation is especially popular. This technique involves not wrapping young lilac branches intended for propagation too much with dark insulating tape.

The branch is wrapped immediately under the internode for up to three weeks. It turns out that the shoot is simply isolated from sunlight. After the allotted period, the area of bark located under the electrical tape becomes white, and it is at this place that the cutting is cut off. This is where roots will form after ten weeks.

You should not excessively torture the mother lilac bush, and cut cuttings from it every year. It is recommended to repeat the procedure no more than once every couple of years, cutting off no more than 80% of annual branches, otherwise the mother bush will weaken.

Cuttings are cut in the evening or in the morning on a cloudy day; this is necessary so that they spend a minimum of moisture during an already difficult time for them.

Correct cutting

When cutting planting material, make sure that each cutting contains at least a pair of buds. The cut is made approximately 0.5 cm from the bottom of them and 1 cm higher from the top, while it should be straight at the top and at an angle at the bottom.

Be careful, lilac roots appear exclusively in the area of the lower node; an incorrect cut will nullify all efforts - the cutting simply will not take root. Planting material with cuts at the internode itself will also not produce roots.
The length of the cutting should ideally be 10-15 cm.

You should not cut several cuttings from one shoot. There should be no leaves left on the bottom node, and cut all other leaves in half. For a while, the prepared material needs to be wrapped in several layers of polyethylene.

To put it simply, the top of the selected branch is removed with a disinfected sharp knife, then immediately after the third internode, without touching it, an oblique cut is made.

Since the branches take root very difficult, before planting in mandatory they must be placed in a solution that stimulates root formation (Heteroauxin, Zircon, Epin Extra). The drugs are dissolved in water or alcohol, following the directions on the package.

At the same time, shoots immersed 1 cm in an alcohol solution are kept for 5 seconds, and in a water solution for 18 hours, and then immediately planted in the ground.

Ideal conditions for lilac bushes

Lilac is a plant that loves warmth and good light. This culture grows quite quickly, so it needs space. Planted in shady place the bush will begin to stretch, flowering will become scarce.

In a swampy or frequently flooded area, the lilac will stop growing and die. It does not tolerate drafts and stagnant water, so the place where the beauty is cultivated must be well protected from gusts of wind. For the full growth and flowering of lilacs, the soil must be sufficiently nutritious, moderately moist and neutral in acidity.

It is not recommended to grow bushes on heavy acidic soils. In this case, the soil should be fertilized, river sand and ash (or dolomite flour) should be added to neutralize the acidity. The acidity of the soil should be checked periodically.

Equally important is the level of completion groundwater, it should not be higher than 1.5 meters. In any case, lilacs need reliable drainage.

Technology of planting cuttings

The easiest way to root cuttings is in a greenhouse or greenhouse. If this is not possible, you can make improvised greenhouses from large five-liter plastic bottles;
The soil for planting must also be prepared in advance; to do this, mix peat and sand in equal parts. You can replace river sand with coarse-grained perlite, in which case the substrate will retain liquid much longer and will not interfere with soil respiration;
Fill the container for planting with a layer of drainage, then 10 cm of prepared soil and 3 cm of washed soil. river sand. Between the layers of drainage and soil, you can pour a small layer of well-rotted manure, everything is well compacted;
Then the containers are well filled with fungicide to prevent fungal infections;
Small holes are made in the top layer of sand, where the cuttings are placed to the depth of the first internode. Their cuts should be placed in a layer of sand without touching the soil. It is under the first internode that the root lobe will appear;
It is recommended to maintain a distance of at least 5 cm between seedlings; they should not touch each other with leaves; about 10 cm should be left between rows;
Crops are sprayed warm water, and the containers are covered with transparent lids or polyethylene and put away in a shaded place.
The temperature should not rise too high; in hot weather, the greenhouses are periodically ventilated;
The key condition for good rooting is high humidity, preferably 95-100%;
If you did everything correctly, rooting will occur in 40-60 days.

Caring for lilac cuttings after planting

First of all, after planting, the cuttings should not dry out, so they should be sprayed twice or thrice a day;
The ideal temperature for rooting is 23-26 degrees Celsius. Ventilate the greenhouse with seedlings periodically;
To prevent the appearance of mold and fungal diseases on the foliage, it should be treated with a strong solution of potassium permanganate once every seven days;
Rooted cuttings can be transplanted into the so-called school. This separate bed should be located in a quiet, well-lit, fertile corner of the garden;
Rooted cuttings are planted with a distance between them of at least 25-35 cm and covered with film;
The planting is ventilated for several hours a day, after a month the ventilation time is gradually increased, and then completely removed;
Before the onset of cold weather, seedlings are covered with a thick layer of dry foliage, peat, spruce branches or spunbond;
During the autumn cold weather, the foliage of the cuttings may darken a little, this is not scary, the most important thing is that the buds remain alive;
Regularly water, loosen and fertilize the planting;
To prevent the shoots from weakening, spend every year in the spring sanitary pruning. Moreover, you should not break off the branches, otherwise you can harm the kidneys;
Every year, in the spring, the bush is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, organic matter with ash is added during the period of bud formation, and in the fall it is fed with phosphorus-potassium complexes.

A plant grown in this way will bloom for 4-5 years.

In conclusion, I would like to say that at home, on average, 60-70% of cuttings take root, so plant several copies at once.

The best time to take cuttings for planting future lilacs is when the plant is flowering. Cuttings should be taken from bushes in the morning. In this case, it is better to take those branches that are still green and have not yet become woody, have an average thickness and are located in the middle of the crown. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that on each of the cuttings there are 2-3 nodes, and the internodes are not long.

All leaves present on the lower node are removed. After this, a cut is made at an angle, located as close as possible to the lower node. For cutting, it is recommended to use a special pruner or a sharp grafting knife. The remaining leaves on the cuttings need to be shortened by half. The tip of the shoot itself is removed with a straight cut above the topmost node. The cuttings prepared in this way are placed in a growth stimulator solution for 18 hours. Not all lilac cuttings can take root, so it is advisable to prepare several branches at once.

Lilac cuttings are planted in a container, which is filled with a mixture of peat and perlite in a 1:1 ratio. The thickness of such a layer should be about 20 cm. It is recommended to pour a small layer of river sand on top of this mixture, after which it can be shed with a fungicide solution. Immediately before planting, each cutting must be dipped in the Kornevin stimulator. The lower end of the lilac cutting should be completely placed in the sand. After planting, all cuttings are sprayed with water (you can use a spray bottle), to which you can add a little solution remaining from soaking.

Then the container with the plantings is covered with two layers of polyethylene and darkened (it should stand in partial shade). In order to prevent the sand from drying out, it is recommended to spray it 3 times a day. The success of rooting cuttings largely depends on maintaining high humidity. About once every 7 days, you can use a solution of potassium permanganate to spray the plantings; this will help prevent the development of mold on lilac leaves.

Roots on cuttings appear approximately 45-55 days after planting (this depends on the variety). From about this time, it is allowed to ventilate the lilac plantings, after which they open completely.

The emerging young roots of the cuttings are still very weak, so they need to be planted with great care. Rooted lilac cuttings are planted for growing at a distance of about 35 cm. The leaves may turn black - this is not a big deal, the main thing is not to damage the roots. For the first winter, it is recommended to cover young lilac seedlings with spruce branches and remove them in the spring. Such lilacs are planted in a permanent place after 2 years, and they can bloom in the 4th-5th year.

Lilac is famous for the beauty of its flowers and wonderful aroma, so many people want to plant it on their site. The tree will look great in the country house or on local area city buildings.

Not everyone knows how to grow lilacs from a twig. We need to ensure that the plant grows, does not get sick and pleases with its wonderful flowers. This is discussed in more detail in the article.

Advantage of cuttings

Lilac cuttings have advantages over other options for obtaining ready-made bushes. At independent use It can be difficult to grow seeds, as they do not always germinate easily.

Purchasing seedlings leads to additional costs, so taking lilac cuttings will also be a profitable option. If you understand the intricacies of planting in other ways, you can choose any one. Any method requires careful preparation and step-by-step procedures. Don't forget about maintenance, which should be regular.

Choosing a cutting

Before you learn how to grow lilac from a twig, you should choose the right cutting - it depends on whether the shoot will take root or not. The branch must be cut carefully. This should be done early spring when the cutting is not yet in active growth, otherwise it will be difficult for him to take root.

It is necessary to cut green branches of medium thickness. A cutting from the crown of a young bush, preferably from the middle, is perfect. It will be possible to grow a bush if there are 2-3 nodes and small internodes on the branch. It is advisable to cut cuttings early in the morning - they will take root better.

Processing

How to grow lilacs from a twig? How to make sure that the cuttings are well accepted? To do this, you need to process it efficiently: remove the leaves from the lower node, and then make an oblique cut using a sharp knife. It is advisable to use a grafting pruner.

This must be done carefully so that you do not get a cut at the internode. Next, shorten the leaf blades by half. Remove the tip of the shoot completely with a straight cut. After this, the cutting can be used for planting.

Landing

So, how to grow lilacs from a twig? After processing and pruning, the cuttings should be dipped into the Epin-Extra solution. After 16 hours, it should be taken out and washed with clean water.

Next, we plant the cuttings in enriched soil. The soil must be mixed with sand, peat or perlite in equal quantities and a branch placed in it so that the lower node is covered. Immediately water with a fungicide solution to protect the plant from fungus.

Watering

How to grow a bush from a lilac branch? To do this, it is necessary to ensure high-quality watering. After planting, the plant should be sprayed with a spray bottle and then shaded.

For several weeks, watering should be done 3-5 times a day. This is necessary to ensure the required humidity. Every week you need to spray a solution of potassium permanganate on the leaves to protect the plant from bacteria and fungi. It is best to cover with a bottle to retain moisture.

Care

The plant requires quality care. Roots will appear on it after 2 months. After this, it is necessary to ventilate the plant, preferably in the evenings: remove the bottle from it for 1 hour.

Rooting of the plant occurs in autumn. If necessary, it can be transplanted to a place where there is a lot of light and fertile soil. You can improve conditions by fertilizing the soil with compost, humus, and wood ash.

Seeds

This option is suitable for species specimens, since growing lilacs with seeds entails the loss of the characteristics of the variety. The method is suitable for obtaining a rootstock. Breeders are attracted to this option by the possibility of obtaining new varieties.

First, the seeds are stratified for 2 months at a temperature of +2...+5 o C, and then sown in the spring in a soil mixture of peat and sand (2:1). The germination time for all varieties is different, for example, for common lilac - 13-16 days.

After the formation of 4 leaves, the seedling is picked at a distance of 3-4 cm. In May they can be planted in open ground, and by autumn they will adapt. With the first frost, the seedlings should be covered with a layer of peat 8-10 cm thick for the winter.

Growing lilacs can be done in other ways, for example, layering and budding. Each method has its own characteristics, but in all cases it is necessary to go through all stages of preparation so that the plant is well accepted and grows healthy.

How to grow lilacs from a twig in a pot? The procedure is performed as described above, you only need to select a container - it can be a plastic or ceramic pot. It is important to follow the sequence of actions, as with classical planting, only then can you expect excellent results.

It is easier to grow in a greenhouse, since the greenhouse effect allows you to create ideal conditions. In addition, the humidity is quite suitable for the root system. On winter period The plant must be covered with spruce branches. For several years, the bush should be loosened, weeded, and be sure to add fertilizing. Compost and humus can serve as fertilizer. Proper care ensures excellent growth and luxurious flowering.

All cultivars lilacs reproduce vegetatively: by shoots (own-rooted specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have grafting skills, and it is problematic for you to make layering, then the most suitable method for you is propagation by green cuttings

Gardeners have the misconception that blooms worse. However, it is in no way inferior in quality, and is more durable. There are plantings that, when proper care do not lose their decorative properties for more than 50 years. refers to plants that are difficult to root, so for successful propagation a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings. Semi-lignified cuttings do not root. Most the right time- the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when young overgrown branches finish their growth.
It is advisable to take cuttings early in the morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using branches of medium thickness (at least thin) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best to have 2-3 nodes and fairly short internodes.

Shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fatty shoots - are not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings. In lilacs, tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings

First, completely remove the leaves from the bottom node.

Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which the leaves have been removed. For this, use a well-sharpened or special pruner to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internode, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not root.

Shorten the remaining leaf blades by half.

Remove the tip of the shoot by making a straight cut above the top node.

Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in the stimulant solution Epin-extra for 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting lilac cuttings in a greenhouse

It is best to plant cuttings in a greenhouse or one located in partial shade. As a last resort, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with cut five-liter bottles from under drinking water. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix with sand in a 1:1 ratio. It would be nice if you replace some of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Fill the cuttings with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. Cover the top with a layer of sand (preferably river) 5 cm thick. Flush the prepared area well with the fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from being damaged by fungal diseases.

Lilac cuttings take root with difficulty, so the use of root formation stimulants is necessary. Dip the cutting with the wet end into the stimulator Kornevin.

Make a small depression in the wet sand and place the cutting there, completely burying the lower node. Try not to let the powdered root formation stimulator fall off. Compact. The lower end of the cutting should be completely located in the sand and not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves lightly touch each other.

Spray the cuttings with water from a spray bottle. You can add the solution remaining from soaking the cuttings to the water. Epina-extra.

Cover the cuttings with two layers of polyethylene, placing a layer of rare or translucent fabric. You can use other shading methods, for example, placing a plastic mesh fruit box on polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow. Make sure that the sand in the cuttings does not dry out; spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they root successfully at 100%. Spray with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate once a week to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Lilac cuttings take a very long time to take root; depending on the variety, roots appear on the 40-60th day after planting. With the formation of roots, the cutting needs to be ventilated in the evening, and then opened completely.

Caring for rooted cuttings

If rooting occurs late, then it is best to leave the cuttings in a cutting container for the winter. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, early autumn They can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing. In the year of rooting, the plant does not produce shoots, but grows. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not a big deal. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

To grow young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if necessary, 300-400 g or 200 g dolomite flour by 1 square meter and dig up onto the bayonet of a shovel. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young lilac roots are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water so that the ground settles a little.

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