Rocket stove from a gas cylinder. Do-it-yourself rocket stove from a gas cylinder: drawings. Dimensions and proportions of the structure

Nowadays, many stoves have been created that use wood as fuel. A special place among them is occupied by the so-called rocket (rocket) units, which have specific features that are indispensable in certain operating conditions. Let's talk about them.

The rocket is a real miracle unit!

The rocket stove is a heating and cooking system that operates on wood, is famous for its high technical performance and has a simple design. The operating principle of such a unit long burning is based on the fact that the gases formed during fuel combustion enter a special hood in which they burn completely. Due to this, the temperature of the stove increases significantly, and the pressure decreases. Moreover, soot does not form in the reactive heating system.

The combustion cycles of heated gases are repeated constantly (while the stove is heating). This causes the system to enter maximum thrust mode. Its specific value is determined by the characteristics of the homemade unit. If the heating device is assembled truly correctly, the temperature in its hood can reach 1200 °C. In this case, all the fuel used is burned without any residue. It is also important that the heated cap can be used as a hob. You can dry fruits, heat water, and cook food on it.

Initially, the stove we were interested in was designed for use in difficult (for example, camping) conditions. Because of this, its designs were put forward special requirements.The result is a unique unit that:

makes it possible to cook food in areas where there is no gas or electricity;
heats the room efficiently;
retains heat for 6–8 hours (minimum) after the wood burns out;
has a high efficiency;
quite safe to use.

In addition, the rocket has a design that allows you to add a new portion of firewood to the firebox without stopping the combustion process. The operation of a unit with such capabilities, of course, appeals to any person. This determines the high popularity of the described heating systems among amateurs active recreation in nature, and among ordinary summer residents who need unpretentious and efficient stoves.

Important point. If you plan to create the simplest jet unit with your own hands, it can only be heated with dry wood. Damp wood can cause backdraft. However, it is not recommended to fire more complex rockets with wet wood, since they will not be able to provide high temperature required for combustion of heated gases.

The described heating devices must not be thrown away without supervision. Light the stove, wait until the fuel burns out completely. Another disadvantage of rocket equipment is the impossibility of heating private baths (in particular, their steam rooms) with its help. This is due to the fact that the reactive unit produces very little infrared heat, and this is precisely what is required for acceptance bath procedures. Missiles probably have no other disadvantages.

Types of jet heating systems – what do you need?

The simplest rockets are made from almost any tin container. A portable stove can be made from a bucket, a can in which paint was stored, and so on. Such systems are ideal for an outdoor picnic; they are often used on construction sites. Simple stoves are not suitable for heating rooms. They are used exclusively for cooking and heating water. A rocket made from a bucket can be heated with a small splinter, dry cones and leaves, and bunches of branches. In such a stove, combustion products do not have time to form wood flammable gas. They immediately go down the chimney.

More complex heating structures are created from an old gas cylinder or from a metal barrel and brick. These stoves are necessarily equipped with a riser to increase draft and a horizontal smoke exhaust duct. There are also rockets made entirely of brick. They can be equipped with several chimneys at once and are used for heating large rooms and heating floors. And if you want, you can actually build even a full-fledged stove-bed.

We will tell you how to make all of the indicated types of reactive heating devices yourself. Let’s start our master class with the simplest thing - making a basic garden camping stove from two tin containers (buckets, cans). In addition to them, we will need steel clamps with a cross section of 10 cm, metal corners, an angle grinder, a stainless steel chimney pipe, scissors for metal, crushed stone. The scheme of work will be as follows:

1. Take two buckets. From a container of smaller volume (diameter) we make a lid for our rocket. Cut a hole in the bucket. It is necessary for organizing a chimney.
2. In the larger bucket, cut another hole at the bottom. We will connect the firebox to it. We perform all operations with metal scissors, bending the resulting petals (pieces of tin) inward.
3. We construct a direct flow from pipes and corners. We insert it into the bucket, and then, using a clamp, connect it with the curved petals.
4. Fill the space between the forward flow and the housing of the heating device with crushed stone. This building material will play the role of a heat accumulator and at the same time a heat insulator.
5. We put the second bucket on the stove.
6. We bend a small burner from wire on which you can place dishes with water and food.

It is advisable to paint the portable rocket with any paint with high level heat resistance. After drying, we can use a basic cooking stove. Pay attention! The rocket is ignited through a pipe extending from the forward flow.

A stove made of a barrel and bricks - both cooks and heats!

The construction of a stationary rocket launcher requires significantly more money and time. We prepare the following materials and tools: chimney metal pipe, red (necessarily heat-resistant) brick, shovel, old barbecue, metal brush, trowel, cement and sand (it is better to immediately buy a ready-to-use mixture of these materials), reinforcing bars, a little perlite, adobe and expanded clay, heat-resistant paint, a barrel for 200 l. Let's start building a stove made of bricks and a metal barrel:

1. We dig a hole 0.3–0.5 m deep in the floor. We will hide a horizontal chimney in it, without which the rocket launcher will not work.
2. We burn a 200-liter barrel and clean it thoroughly. We install a flange in the container that will connect it to the chimney. After this, apply several layers of heat-resistant paint to the container. We use the barrel prepared in this way as a hood for the heating unit.
3. We arrange the foundation. We make a simple formwork from boards, dig 2-3 bricks into the ground at the furnace installation site. We place reinforcing bars on top. Then we lay bricks in the lower part of the combustion chamber (along the entire perimeter). Fill the structure with cement-sand mortar.

After the filling has dried, we begin laying. It is performed using . We bring the first tier of masonry up. We only need to leave a hole for the firebox. On the second line we form a channel (lower) of the heating structure. It should be covered on the third tier, and in such a way that we have two holes left. One of them is intended for the vertical channel, the second - directly for the combustion chamber.

Next, we install a tee in the barrel to clean the chimney. It is not necessary to install it, but it is advisable if you plan to use the stove for a long time. After this we put in a vertical channel. We lay out the rising section of the structure (we take its diameter to be about 18 cm) using the “boot” technology. Then we put the old water heater on the rising part of the furnace. We fill all the voids that remain after this operation with perlite.

Now we cover the base of the casing of the rocket unit with clay and surround the base of our structure with sandbags. We fill all remaining free areas with expanded clay. We connect the chimney pipe to the structure, turn the barrel-casing over and pull it onto the ascending part of the stove. The final work is lining the chimney with sand in bags and filling them with expanded clay. Then we give the structure the required shape using clay (fireclay), install a barbecue grill in the neck of the homemade rocket and cover it with a lid.

The last step is to seal the existing seams on the stove. In principle, we can already do a test run of our design. But experts advise additionally connecting a separate air duct from the street to the stove. This is important. The heating rocket requires a lot of air to function properly. It won't be enough indoors. A street air duct is guaranteed to solve this problem.

Rocket heating from a cylinder - let's work with a welding machine

To build a rocket, we choose a heat-resistant and non-explosive cylinder. An all-metal 50-liter tank in which propane is stored is optimal for these purposes. Such a cylinder has standard sizes: height – 85 cm and cross-section – 30 cm.

These parameters are ideal for making your own oven. The modest size and light weight of the cylinder do not make it difficult to work with. At the same time, it is allowed to burn any wood fuel in the finished rocket. You can also take 27 or 12 liter propane cylinders. They make compact portable stoves. But the power indicators of such devices are small. Use them to heat rooms, country houses inappropriate.

To build a furnace, in addition to the cylinder, you will need:

steel pipes with a cross section of 15, 7 and 10 cm (the first two will be used to organize a vertical internal channel, the third - to the chimney);
profile pipe product 15x15 cm (we will make a loading compartment and firebox from it);
3mm thick sheet of metal;
dense (100 or more kg/cubic m) basalt fiber (it will serve as a heat-insulating material).

There are various drawings on the Internet for creating a stove from a cylinder. We propose to be guided by this scheme.

The algorithm for manufacturing a rocket launcher is simple. First, we bleed all the gas from the container. Then we turn out the valve, fill the tank with water (to the top) and cut off its upper part along the seam. We cut out the windows on both sides of the gas cylinder, which are required for connecting the chimney and installing the fuel chamber.

After this, we insert the profile tubular product into the container and connect it to the channel (vertical). We remove the latter through the bottom of the tank. Next, we carry out all the necessary actions, focusing on the presented drawing, as well as on the video, which we offer home craftsmen for review.

At the end of the work, we weld the cut part of the container in its place and analyze all the resulting seams for permeability. Uncontrolled entry of air into the constructed structure must not be allowed. If the seams are secure, connect to homemade system chimney. We weld the legs to the bottom of the rocket cylinder. Install the stove on steel sheet with parameters 1.5x1 m. The unit is ready for use!

Stove-bed - for lovers of special comfort

The heating unit with a place to sleep and rest is equipped with a special heat exchanger. Its channels are interconnected. They make them from non-combustible materials. The heat exchanger is installed under the plane of the bed. The design of such a furnace is very thoughtful and relatively complex. The bed itself is a surface made of brick or stone and clay. When the stove burns, the heated gas moves through the heat exchange channels, gives off heat upward, and then is removed through the smoke exhaust duct outside the house. The height of the chimney is made within 3–3.5 m. The stove is mounted at the edge of the stove bench (on one of the sides). In most cases, it is equipped with a surface for cooking food. Detailed drawing of this system is presented below.

Elements of the furnace in the diagram:

blower - 1a;
fuel bunker – 1b;
channel for secondary air - 1c;
flame tube – 1g;
riser (primary chimney) – 1d.

The fuel chamber is equipped with a blank cover, and the blower is equipped with a special regulator for adjusting the amount of air supplied. The flame tube has a length of 15–20 cm. The secondary air channel is necessary for complete combustion of gases. The riser cross-section is 7–10 cm. A chimney with a diameter of 10 cm is recommended for cases when we want to obtain the greatest rocket power. A riser with a cross-section of 7 cm provides an optimal indicator of the efficiency of the stove. The fire pipe and the primary chimney require high-quality thermal insulation.

We will make the rocket body from a gas cylinder, although a metal barrel can also be used. Under the housing cover (2a), the primary chimney supplies heated air, and the heated gases leaving the riser heat the cooking device (2b). Other body elements:

lower part (2d);
heat exchange channels (2g);
shell – metal chimney insulation (2c);
exit to the cleaning chamber (2e).

The smoke exhaust line must be absolutely sealed throughout. At a height of 1/3 from the upper end of the drum (housing), the gases are already at a low temperature. They have time to cool down. From approximately the specified height, the rocket-bed is lined (all the way to the floor). This process refers to the thermal insulation of the furnace with special compounds. The second cleaning chamber in diagram (3a) is needed to remove carbon deposits from the hog (4) - the heat exchanger. It must be equipped with a sealed door (3b). Now that we have figured out the design of the bed, we can begin to build it.

Building a rocket with a place to sleep - the first steps are the most important!

Before starting work, mix all the necessary ingredients:

Kiln clay (designation 5b in the diagram), which is combined with crushed stone. This composition plays the role of the main heat insulator.
Saman (5a). It is a composition of straw and any clay at hand, diluted with water to a relatively thick consistency.
Seeded sand (5g).
Heat-resistant lining (5c). It is made from equal parts of fireclay sand and clay.
Medium fat clay (5d). It is used for rocket laying.

We are making a bed for our bed. Essentially, we need to knock down high-strength shields under the stove bench and directly under the stove. The frame of the buildings is made from 10x10 cm wooden blocks. The frame cells are made with dimensions of 60x120 cm (for a bed) and 60x90 cm (for a heating installation). Then we sheathe the resulting skeleton with 4 cm. And the façade of the couch can be finished later with sheets of plasterboard.

Before installation, it is advisable to treat wood products with Biocide, and then apply two layers of water emulsion to them.

We lay 4 mm thick basalt cardboard on the floor where we will place the heating rocket. In shape and geometric parameters, it must be similar to the characteristics of the bed. On top of the basalt lining we install an iron roofing sheet. Before the firebox, it will extend about 25 cm from under the unit. We install the previously made bed in the place prepared for it. We punch a hole on the wall at a height of 13 cm above the level of the couch (at one of its ends). It is needed for the installation of a chimney.

The next stage is the installation of formwork around the perimeter of the bed and filling the installed structure with adobe. Carefully level the surface of the mixture using the rule. We wait 14–20 days until the adobe hardens. During this time, you can make the body of the heating structure from a gas cylinder according to the previously described scheme. We weld the combustion components of the rocket (blower, flame duct, chamber) into a single structure with a gas container and coat it with a heat-resistant lining. Important! Apply the composition in a continuous layer only at the bottom. We do not treat the top and sides of the structure with the solution.

Next, we install another formwork under the area where the rocket will stand. It will allow us to make heat-resistant thermal protection for the stove. The height of the formwork structure is about 10 cm. Fill it with a mixture of crushed stone and oven clay. Then we do one by one:

1. Shell. We bend it from a sheet of steel or use finished pipe cross section 15–20 cm.
2. Furnace structure.
3. Cleaning chamber. This element is made from 1.5 mm galvanized steel. We cut an opening on the side with a cross-section of 16–18 cm. The chimney pipe will subsequently fit into it.

Completion of work - the warm bed will turn out great!

We put a drum from a gas cylinder on the primary chimney. We place oven clay on the bottom of the installed housing, using a spatula to form an inclined surface (about 7°), which is directed towards the cleaning compartment window. Then we put a metal round timber on the chimney. It should be pressed into the clay composition. Then we pull the shell onto the riser and coat it with medium-fat clay. The next steps are:

1. We line the chimney from the inside. We use sand. It should be filled up separate layers. We wet and tamp each of them. Total number layers – 7. Place 5 cm of medium-fat clay on top of the sand.
2. Place the cleaning box, coating its bottom and side surfaces clay. We mount the opening of the transition channel into the hole of the drum and press it as hard as possible. We fill all remaining gaps with clay. It is necessary to achieve complete tightness of this stove unit.
3. We install another formwork along the (external) contour of the bed. It should rise about 9 cm above the edge of the hole for the hog. Fill the formwork with adobe mixture.
4. We stretch the corrugated pipe along the entire length of the rocket-bed. We connect one end of the corrugated product to the cleaning compartment.
5. We lay the fixed corrugated pipe in a spiral and insert its second end into the chimney outlet opening, securing the joint with a clay compound.
6. We treat the entire length of the bur with adobe solution and compact this coating.
7. We fix the housing covers and cleaning chambers with bolts, under which we install rubber gaskets.
8. Coat the drum with adobe (just don’t touch top part) in a layer of about 10 cm.

After about 17 days, the adobe will dry out. We will be able to remove the formwork and apply a special enamel to the drum that can withstand heating up to 750 °C. Then experts advise treating the adobe surface with acrylic-based varnish (preferably in two layers). This coating will protect the structure from moisture and make the stove very attractive in appearance.

The heated bed is done. We test our structure before starting its full operation. The check is carried out simply. We put some paper in the firebox, set it on fire, and monitor the behavior of the rocket. If everything is fine - there are no frightening sounds, we add firewood. After a while the unit will begin to hum. At this moment, close the oven vent. We are waiting. When the humming is replaced by a gentle whisper ( soft sound working stove), open the vent. Next, we use the heating installation for its intended purpose.

Among large quantity solid fuel heating devices special attention deserves a rocket stove made from a gas cylinder. It has a simple design, does not require expensive building materials for its manufacture, but turns out to be quite effective in heating outbuildings up to 50 square meters. m. Anyone with at least a little experience working with a welding machine can build such a furnace on their own.

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Operating principle

Despite the fact that a jet stove made from a gas cylinder is quite simple, its operation is based on advanced methods of generating heat by burning fuel:

free circulation of heated air and gases. The firewood in its firebox burns due to natural draft generated by the influx of oxygen through the hole in the lower part of the structure (blower);
afterburning of wood gases released during fuel combustion (pyrolysis). Part of the fuel, converted into a gaseous state, burns out in an additional heat exchange device and a horizontal section of the smoke exhaust channel located immediately behind the firebox. Wood gas moves slower in it than in a vertical channel, and a thick layer of heat-insulating material does not allow them to cool, which allows the process of decomposition and afterburning to take place more fully.

The vertical pipe in the rocket stove from the cylinder is installed above the firebox, according to the drawing, and is also insulated. The pyrolysis process when burning wood significantly increases the efficiency of the stove.

Operating principle

Materials

To make a rocket stove with your own hands, according to the drawing, you will need the following materials:

No.	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity
1	Pipe section Dn158 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm	m	0,8
2	Pipe section Dn127 mm with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm	m	1,5
3	Pipe section with cross-section square shape 120x120 mm, wall thickness 4 mm	m	1
4	Empty gas cylinder 50 l	pcs.	2
5	Sheet steel	m²	1
6	Armature	m	1
7	Perlite	kg	2
8	Pipe with a diameter of 120 mm for the chimney	m	4
9	Asbestos cord	m	1
10	Basalt wool	m²	1

Tools

To build a rocket stove for a garage with your own hands, you will need a set of tools and accessories consisting of:

a household apparatus for electric welding with electrodes with a diameter of 3–4 mm;
grinders or hacksaws for metal;
hammer - slag separator;
an ordinary hammer;
pliers;
chisels;
metal brushes;
electric drill;
measuring instruments: tape measure, level and plumb line;
marker or chalk;
funds personal protection: protective mask, dielectric gloves, protective clothing made of thick fabric and closed shoes.

Manufacturing instructions

Scheme and dimensions

Scheme rocket furnace from a gas cylinder

Preparing the balloon

It is better to use 50-liter cylinders for transporting propane as blanks for making a rocket stove. Their height is 85 cm, diameter is 30 cm.

A rocket stove made from a gas cylinder of this size can effectively burn fuel and heat a room of up to 50 m². In addition, such containers are often used in everyday life, so finding products that have exhausted their service life will not be difficult.

In a gas cylinder, not even in use long time, a small amount of substance remains inside. Trying to cut it without prior preparation can lead to tragedy. To prevent detonation during cutting, the following manipulations must be done with both containers:

unscrew the valves to release the neck of the cylinders;
stand for 2 - 3 days until the remainder of the gaseous mixture evaporates;
pour water into them and leave them in this position for a day;
drain the water and allow to dry.

Such preparation will completely free the containers from gas, eliminating any possibility of an explosion.

Stages of work

cut off from profile pipe two pieces 30 cm long and one piece for a lounger 35 cm long;
cut two holes in the deck chair - one for the combustion chamber, the other for installation vertical pipe;
saw one piece of wood lengthwise square pipe and weld one part to the firebox. This part will facilitate the flow of air masses into the combustion section;
weld the firebox with the pipe into a single structure;
make and install a grate from reinforcement. Its basis will be a square-shaped frame made of reinforcement measuring 115x115 mm. Then the bars for the grid are welded to it in increments of 8 - 10 mm. It will be laid on corners welded from the inside of the firebox;
weld the door hinges to the combustion hole and to the ash pan;
check the quality of the seams for the absence of defects, for example, cracks and holes;
check the functionality of the primary combustion chamber with a small amount of fuel;
cut a piece 10 - 15 cm long from the pipe intended for the manufacture of the chimney;
cut an opening in the lower part of the remaining pipe and weld the prepared elbow;
cut an opening for cleaning the chimney just below the knee;
cut off the top of one cylinder and cut a hole in its bottom;
on the surface of this cylinder, use a tape measure and a marker to mark the location for the smoke exhaust and weld a chimney pipe elbow with a diameter of 110 - 120 mm to it;
insert one part of a pipe of a smaller diameter, 0.8 m long, into a part of a pipe of a larger diameter;
weld the gaps between the pipes along the entire circumference on one side;
pour perlite into the space between the pipes for thermal insulation;
install the pipe in the center of the prepared gas cylinder;
weld the gaps between the pipes along the entire circumference on top;
on the same cylinder, mark another opening and weld the manufactured firebox to it, and the vertical pipe to the sunbed;
cut off the bottom of the second cylinder;
clean cut areas from burrs;
weld the valve hole in it;
weld two metal rings to the edge of the cylinder;
dock the cylinders together in the groove formed by the rings;
seal the junction of the cylinders with asbestos cord for maximum tightness;
Place heat-insulating material on the floor at the installation site and a sheet of thick metal on top.

Finished design

Operation

A stove of this type, like any top-combustion heat generator, operates with maximum heat output only when the chimney is well heated. Therefore, before loading the main portion of fuel into the combustion chamber, the device must:

warm up the chimney well. For these purposes, you can use any quickly flammable fuel, for example, paper balls, sawdust or shavings. It should burn not in the firebox, but in the ash pit. The level of heating of the chimney can be judged by the attenuation of the sound or a change in its tone. Next, you can start adding the main fuel to the firebox. It is no longer necessary to set it on fire; it should flare up from the coals remaining from the burnt “fast” fuel;
manually regulate the flow of air into the combustion chamber. The rocket stove in the garage is not able to adjust itself to changing conditions environment And quality characteristics fuel, so it must be adjusted manually. After loading the main fuel batch, the ash door should be opened completely, and when a characteristic hum appears in the furnace, it should be closed enough so that the tone of the sound in the furnace is reduced to a rustling sound. As the wood burns, the door needs to be closed more tightly, achieving the same rustling sound. If this is not done, then excess air will enter the firebox and cool the intermediate gas mixture. In this case, the pyrolysis process immediately stops and the oven begins to make a roaring sound.

Only dry wood can be used as fuel for such a stove, since the appearance of excess moisture when burning wet wood can cause reverse thrust and become an obstacle to creating the temperature necessary to begin the pyrolysis process.

To ensure the safety of users during operation, the following rules must be observed:

do not use liquid fuels for kindling and do not add them to the stove during the burning period;
avoid contact between open areas of the contact body and the surfaces of the furnace, since the cylinders and its other metal parts will become very hot during combustion;
It is prohibited to place the device near flammable surfaces;
Clean the chimney at least once a week, and preferably after each use of the device.

Conclusion

A rocket stove made from a gas cylinder is an effective heating device utility rooms small area. You can make such a device yourself. Gas cylinders are made of high-quality steel alloy, resistant to high temperatures and corrosion. Therefore, such a stove can last a long time, and the process of its manufacture will not take much time.

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This stove is a simple and convenient heating device that is superior to many others in terms of economy and efficiency. The quality of the stove is largely determined by its firebox, so its spherical shape is very advantageous (the firebox must have at least two holes, so a narrow, not very long cylinder is the best option)

It is possible to make from a gas cylinder several types of ovens, including the “rocket”. The rocket type design has many advantages over others.

First of all, it should be noted that the costs of materials and labor are very low. With his own hands, if he has the necessary drawings, anyone can build a “rocket” in 1 hour. Secondly, this heating structure, comparatively small sizes, Maybe heat large rooms. This is an advantage over the expensive, complex and bulky Russian stove. Thirdly, the “rocket” is not at all demanding on the natural draft of the chimney, and fuel can be added “on the fly”.

However, despite all the attractiveness of the unit, there are also negative points. The jet-powered stove accepts only high-quality firewood, when burning wet wood at the required temperature it won't be possible to achieve. Also, self-made structures are practically not suitable for baths, since they provide very little heat with infrared radiation, and it becomes practically impossible to heat the bathhouse. Behind the heating structure you need ongoing care and control of its work.

If you decide to make " rocket» with your own hands, first of all, you need to choose a cylinder, since it is the basis of the entire structure.

First of all, the material must be chosen that is non-explosive and heat-resistant, and the size must also correspond to the size of the oven. The best preparation is a 50-liter all-metal propane cylinder, with a diameter of 300 millimeters and a height of 850 millimeters. This volume is quite suitable for burning any fuel, and its dimensions do not make work difficult. The purchase can be made at special gas stations at a relatively inexpensive price.

First of all, you need to have the necessary drawings and work according to them. It is also advisable to consult a specialist.

All cylinder stoves consist of the following parts:

blower (a channel at the bottom of the stove through which the air necessary for combustion is supplied);
furnaces (chamber where fuel burns);
chimney (pipe through which products combustion is removed from the firebox).

First, the gas cylinder is prepared. It involves releasing the gas. To do this, open the valve for a while. Next, we need to create a horizontal or vertical stove-stove (we will consider the horizontal option, since it takes less time). First, you need to cut off the top part and leave valve hole. Then, four legs need to be welded to the metal cylinder. At the top you should do round hole, which will be the basis of the chimney, here you need to weld a “collar” (steel strip, 5 centimeters wide).

A self-made structure should be placed on a sheet of steel measuring 100 by 150 centimeters. A space of approximately 60 centimeters should be cleared in front of the firebox.

What types of long-burning stoves are there? From this article you will learn how long-burning stoves with vertical loading are fundamentally different and how to increase their efficiency. We will tell you about the secrets of their manufacture and provide step-by-step instructions.

Continuing the topic of manufacturing and improving long-burning furnaces (LDG), we will describe in detail devices with vertical loading. The advantages of this option:

Compact combustion chamber.
Using gravity at work.
More efficient sales of fuel (firewood).
Low temperature emission - no need to heavily insulate the chimney.
Relative purity (smokelessness) of the emission - less problems with neighbors.

The fundamental difference between such stoves and potbelly stoves and their derivatives is the gradual combustion of fuel and, as a result, a smooth and uniform distribution of heat (in potbelly stoves the entire load flares up at once).

The two most popular varieties of PDG are “Bubafonya” and “Raketa” (rocket stove). In the first case, the energy from burning wood under pressure with a deficiency of oxygen is realized, in the second - a reactive process that occurs when there is a temperature difference.

“Bubafonya” or piston PDG

This oven received its original name from the nickname of the author, who first posted the diagram in the public domain. Whether he is the inventor of this variety is unknown. Most likely, in one form or another it has existed since ancient times, since its action is based only on the laws of physics and nature.

The peculiarity of this version of the PDG is the constant pressure of the piston, the heel of which balances and maintains a constant uniform temperature, not allowing individual areas to cool down or overheat.

Design

“Bubafonya” is something like a piston internal combustion engine cylinder in an extremely primitive form:

Combustion chamber (CC). An open cylindrical container (barrel, cylinder, pipe) without hatches and with a smoke exhaust at the upper boundary. The size of the KS can vary from 20 to 240 liters.
Piston. Steel pipe with a cross-section of 75 mm with a round heel at one end. The heel has a diameter 40-50 mm smaller than the KS, and a hole for the diameter of the pipe. In the outer part, the heel has ribs to allow air to enter the combustion area. Functionally, this part plays the role of an air duct and a press.
Lid. A simple steel cover with a hole for the duct pipe.

The simplicity and reliability of the design, as well as the availability of the material, made this stove the most popular among villagers and garage owners. “Bubafonya” is the record holder for the longest burning time - a combustion chamber from a 200 liter barrel with a full, dense vertical load works for 20-24 hours.

How to assemble

1. Cut off the top lid of the barrel (it must not be rotten). It can then be used under the oven lid. If it is a gas cylinder, we cut it along the junction of the head and the wall. We cut out a chimney hole 20-30 mm from the top edge and weld a channel from a 100-120 mm pipe.

2. Air duct (VD). For a compressor chamber of any size, the sufficient internal diameter of the explosive pipe is 75 mm. The length of the explosive is equal to the height of the KS plus 200-300 mm.

3. Heel. We cut out a sheet of 4-6 mm in the form of a circle with a diameter smaller than the combustion chamber by 30-40 mm.

4. Cut a hole in the center of the heel equal to the internal diameter of the explosive plus 2-3 mm. A strip edge can be welded along the edge to stabilize the piston when the firebox is loaded.

5. Weld on work surface heel corners 30x30 or 40x40 in the form of rays from the center.

6. We weld the explosive to the heel at an angle strictly 90º C reverse side from the ribs.

7. Weld an M6 nut on the free end of the explosive from the inside. We cut the damper along the explosive section and install it on the screw. You can use a magnet of a suitable diameter. This damper regulates the air supply to the combustion chamber.

8. We weld a 20-30 mm strip around the circumference onto the lid, like a side.

Making the most of it

Convector. To remove heat from the combustion chamber (furnace), there is a simple and effective solution based on air convection.

Convection is a type of heat transfer in which thermal energy is transferred in streams or jets.

To construct a primitive convector, we will need a profiled galvanized sheet with medium wave, which we simply need to wrap around the combustion chamber. The profile waves will serve as channels through which air will flow. Heated from the stove, it will rush upward, and its place will be taken by cold air coming from the bottom of the channel. If there is no profiled sheet, you can fasten CD or UD profile trim around the firebox and chimney.

Casing. Another type of convector can be a primitive coaxial system.

Coaxial - from Latin with- joint and axis- axis, i.e. having a common axis.

To do this, we weld brackets 40-50 mm long onto the combustion chamber, departing 50 mm from the top and bottom. We fix a sheet of metal on them. The thickness is not critical here, since the coolant is air, and the casing itself will not heat up. Thin galvanized steel, which can be made removable, is suitable.

Long, smooth chimney. If it is possible to easily increase the length of the chimney indoors, this will allow the remaining temperature of the exhaust gases to be removed.

Fan, directed at the PDG, effectively mixes the air, which will provide quick and uniform heating of the room.

The described version of the stove has one, but significant drawback, which can be considered as a tribute to the simplicity of the design. Cleaning the ash pan is a dusty job. The ash pan itself is the bottom part of the combustion chamber and removing ash through the side is inconvenient, but necessary.

Another nuance can only be called “production costs”. When using a barrel, the walls of the firebox burn out relatively quickly. With intensive use (at high temperatures), the combustion chamber will have to be replaced after 3-4 seasons. But here, too, simplicity ensures success - just find the same barrel. In this case, the gas cylinder will serve for decades.

"Rocket" or rocket stove (RP)

Another type of energy-efficient stove is known as the “Rocket” or “Rocket stove”. It received a sonorous name because of the reactive process based on heat exchange with a significant temperature difference (and the resulting thrust), which is also implemented in rocket jet engines. This natural phenomenon is inscribed in the basic laws of physics due to its trouble-free operation.

Design

The RP always has a “knee” of no more than 90° in one form or another. That is, the chimney is located at a right or acute angle to the bottom of the firebox. It is necessary to have an air duct (AH), which is often located adjacent (through the wall) to the firebox.

Operating principle and advantages

The main difference between RP and previously described furnaces is that the temperature is concentrated not in the firebox, but in the air flow, which is in constant dynamics. The continuous draft that occurs at the place of heating (knee) brings oxygen with the flow of combustion air into the firebox through the explosive; in the firebox, the air receives thermal energy from the combustion of fuel and releases it at the place of temperature difference (knee and “surroundings”), due to which the draft supported.

In the constant RP mode, no adjustment of the air supply is required - the natural desire for a balance of processes provides a draft of exactly the strength required to realize the temperature in the firebox. The exhaust gases also exit naturally - under the pressure of heated air (therefore, the RP does not require a high chimney pipe).

Reactivity effect heat flow We will implement it in stages, making the design more and more complex.

Stage one. Pure flow

As we have already found out, the main element and condition for the existence of the flow is the channel elbow. By welding two pipes with a diameter of 150 mm or more at an angle of 90°, correlating as 1/2, we will get a ready-made “rocket” firebox with a chimney pipe. The short section is horizontal, the long section is vertical. If you light a fire horizontally, the flame will come out through a vertical pipe.

A primitive option for supplying secondary air can be organized by installing a sheet of metal on brackets inside the firebox - the hearth will be separated from the air duct. In this case, the air passing through it will enter the corner of the knee, which allows us to call it secondary. For such a device, you can weld the legs and place a grate for the frying pan on the upper channel.

Stage two. "Rocket Potbelly Stove"

We take the design described above as a basis and add one more element - a horizontal section (channel). Rectangular section channels will be more convenient to use than pipes.

Rocket potbelly stove: 1 - plate; 2 - heating and heat exchange area; 3 - air flow

In this case, the air duct can be positioned arbitrarily - the main thing is that air passes through it. These can be “cheeks” parallel to the side walls of the loading hatch, or a plate on the ribs along the bottom wall.

Next, we attach a chimney made of a steel pipe (also known as a residual heat exchanger) to the elbow and install a lid. It is difficult to accurately describe the design, since most often it is made from scrap materials. It is important to understand and implement the very principle of flow formation.

Stage three. System with vertical heat exchanger

The idea is to install a steel heat exchanger with thick walls along the path of the hot flow.

The design is an element from the second stage, increased in size, on which, instead of a vertical pipe, an empty container for dry heat exchange (ideally an empty gas cylinder) will be located. In this case, the chimney duct must be located coaxially with the horizontal element.

The horizontal element itself (firebox) can be made in in different forms- stove body, pipe or box. It can serve as a pre-heat exchanger (if it is large enough). For long-term (up to 4 hours) continuous combustion, you need to increase the fuel compartment. It can be up to 600 mm in height and accept logs vertically. Combustion will occur in their lower part, and under their own weight they will gradually burn out.

Rocket stove with heat exchanger: 1 - ash pan; 2 - cold air; 3 — fuel compartment; 4 - cover; 5 - firewood; 6 — flame boundary; 7 - combustion area; 8 - heat exchange; 9 - chimney; 10 — cylinder

Primary air will be supplied through a door in the firebox area, which will serve as an inspection hatch for cleaning. Secondary - through a hole or channel in the knee, or through a channel in the fuel compartment.

Stage four. Installing the injector

Prototypes of secondary air supply channels were mentioned above. At this stage, we will install a separate channel to fully supply the flame with oxygen during the fuel afterburning stage.

This will require steel pipe with a diameter of 12-15 mm, curved in the shape of a channel, which was obtained from the elements of the system. On one side, it needs to be plugged and 6-8 5-6 mm holes drilled in the wall over an area of 100 mm. Then you should install the tube so that it passes through the entire system, and its “blind” end with holes is in the place where the flame reaches. The open end should exit into the “cold” part of the system and have air access. The heated metal of the tube will create draft, and fresh air will be supplied for afterburning.

Injector installation options: 1 - ash pan; 2 - cold air; 3 - firebox; 4 — fuel compartment; 5 — injector; 6 — flame boundary; 7 - heat exchanger

Stage five. Turbocharging

An air pump (possibly an old vacuum cleaner) is connected to the injector. The injector itself must have a greater throughput than with natural supply. When the pump is turned on, the flow fresh air creates excess additional pressure, and the thrust increases in proportion to the power supplied. This ensures an increase in the temperature of the heat exchanger.

This method has been known to craftsmen since ancient times - the function of an air pump was performed by blacksmith bellows.

When taking measures to develop a rocket furnace, remember that the system must be harmonious - all elements must be balanced, otherwise the metal will overheat and burn out.

DIY pyrolysis rocket stove made from cans

A camping wood chip burner will always come in handy, especially since it does not require special materials or skills. Even a teenager can make it. However, for those who first tackled the issue of heating with “rocket” stoves, this will be a good practice, since the operating principle is identical:

Let's take two tin cans different diameters and heights (20-25 mm difference).
Cut a hole equal to the diameter of the smaller can in the bottom of the larger can.
We make a network of holes in the bottom of the smaller jar.
We make a belt of holes on the wall of the smaller can at 1/5 of its height from the open edge.
We make a belt of holes on the wall of the larger can at 1/7 of the height of its open edge.
We insert the smaller jar into the bottom of the larger one so that the bottom of the smaller one fits the open edge of the larger one. The burner is ready.

You probably already guessed that, in principle, this is a coaxial gas pipeline system. Adding to such a burner various devices, you can increase the volume of the fuel compartment or boil the water.

If you cut a hole in the wall of a larger container and install a fan, you will get nothing more than a turbocharged RP.

Using this “pocket” option, you can conduct experiments and comparative measurements - how the material burns by itself and how it burns using secondary air.

Special attention among heating devices deserves a rocket oven. It has an original structure, which involves the use of available materials and components. Almost anyone can organize one. It is enough to understand how drawings are read, and also be able to use the basic construction tools and materials.

Option for making a rocket stove with your own hands

Despite the simplicity of the design, the rocket stove involves the use of two operating principles at once:

free flow of wood gases through channels;
pyrolysis is the afterburning of gases that are released during combustion.

The simplest rocket stove uses only the first principle of operation, since there are not enough conditions for pyrolysis.

A neat, homemade rocket stove

First, let's look at the options for jet stoves used for cooking. In such a device, a short pipe located horizontally is used as a firebox, and then it is directed upward. This is the simplest design.

Fuel is placed into the rocket stove directly into the pipe, after which it is ignited. As a result, a flow of hot gases is formed, which is oriented to go out, and therefore tends to the vertical section.

At the end of the pipe there is a container used for water or food. There is a gap between it and the pipe so that combustion products can escape.

Many people are interested in why such a stove is called a rocket. The design has a nozzle turned upward, from which, when the device is operating, a flame bursts out. Hence the name.

Flames escaping from a rocket stove

Of course, such a unit will not be able to warm up the room. The rocket furnace must be supplemented with a heat exchanger, as well as channels for removing combustion products. To ensure high temperatures, the vertical part of the pipe is insulated with fire-resistant material.

The nozzle can be covered with a cap. This is necessary for high-quality heat selection. A channel is created at the bottom of the horizontal section of the pipe to supply secondary air.

The modern version involves a slightly different design. Such a reactive furnace involves the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, which is possible due to the supply of secondary air. In addition, combustion products collect under the top of the hood, which increases the pressure to excess. Over time, heat is transferred outward through the walls of the pipe, forcing the gases to cool and flow downward. There waiting for them hot air, so they have to be directed into the space between the walls of the hood and the pipe, going into the chimney channel.

Application of a rocket stove with a hood on the site

Due to pyrolysis processes, efficiency increases significantly. And thanks to the flow of gases, a self-regulating system is organized.

Productive heat removal

The gases that are sent to have a high temperature. Therefore, it is clear that you should not get rid of them so easily. Otherwise, the effect of the device will be minimal. Therefore, several solutions have been invented for a do-it-yourself rocket stove:

a water circuit is installed on the rocket stove;
gases are passed through channels equipped under the stove bench.

A water-heated rocket stove is made without a hood; the energy of combustion products is used in a metal heat exchanger. You should not use a coil with water, it is better to make a water jacket.

You can also make chimney channels lined with brick. They can be placed on the floor, and a bed can be equipped on top. And in this case, the length of the channels must be accurately calculated, otherwise natural traction will have to be organized.

Design of a brick rocket stove with a stove bench

Advantages

Create a rocket stove with your own hands and get the following benefits:

You can add fuel during the process;
Efficiency is not a constant value, but with proper selection of thermal energy from gases, it can be very high;
natural draft of the chimney is not a prerequisite;
accessibility of installation - to organize a rocket stove with your own hands, a little experience in the stove business is enough, minimum costs for materials.

Using a rocket stove outdoors

Such advantages make the rocket stove a popular device.

Flaws

Note: And although the rocket stove is characterized by simplicity and attractiveness, it also has disadvantages. For example, there are certain requirements for fuel quality. The firewood should not be wet, otherwise the pyrolysis effect will not be achieved. In addition, the structure requires constant supervision.

A do-it-yourself rocket stove is not suitable for a bathhouse, since it gives off little of the heat needed for a steam room. The small surface area of the stove prevents effective heating of the bath.

Species

There are several types of rocket stoves:

Brick boilers. They differ from stoves - they are equipped with a built-in heat exchanger, from which the coolant is supplied to the heating system: tank, pipes, radiators.
Heating. They demonstrate the efficiency of heating rooms using the convection principle of operation.
Designs with hob, they are called heating and cooking.
Fireplaces. Most often they are used for heating one room in which they are located.
For the bath. They have original design. The main task of the device is to increase the temperature of the stones, thereby heating the air in the steam room. Important indicator decisions - intensity.

Simple design DIY rocket stove

Of course, these are not all the species that exist.

From a cylinder

This is a fairly popular option, which is successfully implemented by the hands of many craftsmen. Most often, a 50 liter gas cylinder is used for production. It will serve as a cap. To create a loading hopper and firebox, you can use a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm. A pipe with a diameter of 10 cm is used for the chimney, and 7 cm for the internal channel.

Using a rocket stove from a gas cylinder on the site

It is necessary to cut the products to the required length, and cut off the upper part of the cylinder. Next, using the drawing, you should weld the parts together with your own hands. Fill the gap between the pipes 7 and 15 cm thermal insulation material. You can use sand, but it is recommended to calcinate it to kill the organic environment. Otherwise, the heating process will be accompanied by an unpleasant odor.

When assembled, a rocket stove made from a gas cylinder weighs little, so it does not require a special base. The legs need to be welded to the device.

Made of brick

You can make a rocket stove out of brick with your own hands. In this case, you will have to work hard to get a high-quality design. The fire channels of the device are made using. You can use a barrel as a cap.

What a rocket oven made of brick might look like

To position the structure, it is recommended to dig a small hole, since it should be below the floor level. The bottom needs to be compacted, after which it is poured concrete base 10 cm thick. When it hardens, you can start laying. For this purpose, a solution is used, which includes refractory clay. When the structure is built, the solution has hardened, and the dug hole can be filled in. A barrel is placed on the channel, the bottom of which is cut out with your own hands. The space between the brick and it is filled with insulation.

The end of the device is coated with a solution, a barrel is put on top large size, to the bottom of which the chimney is welded.

Let's sum it up

Note: A rocket stove is an original solution that you can build with your own hands. Just choose suitable option design, take into account recommendations and requirements. You must first make a drawing. If you can’t draw a diagram with your own hands, you can use ready-made options presented by experts.

In this matter, the main thing is not to rush, then the result will definitely comply with accepted standards and will become an effective tool for heating.

A detailed description of the manufacture of a rocket furnace from steel elements.

Features of the design and use of a simple rocket stove, which you can take with you on fishing or outdoor recreation.

Branded rocket stove. Description by a specialist.