Drawings of a stove for a metal bath: the simplest designs. Brick stoves for a sauna - do-it-yourself design and diagram of a sauna stove

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Metal stoves for baths are profitable and convenient, but, as a rule, experienced stove makers recommend making them from brick. Only in such steam rooms the atmosphere is comfortable, the warmth is pleasant, you can breathe easily, and the steam, although rich, does not burn if the brick sauna stove is made correctly.

Brick heating stoves for cottages and baths they emit soft warmth. They are perfect choice for those people who visit the steam room quite often. Regarding design brick structures, then they can look great, as evidenced by the photo on the website.

Types of brick stoves for baths

There are four ways to build a brick sauna stove:

"in white";
"in black";
"in gray";
"with a stove."

White stoves do not pollute the premises, but they take a lot of time to warm up - up to 12 hours, since the stones in them are heated by the overlying metal plate. For the same reason, they retain heat for a long time.

A brick sauna stove, which is heated “black”, is made without a chimney. These are the design solutions that were used villagers, since it is believed that in such baths the steam is of high quality, but you must wait until the fuel burns out completely.

Gray stoves designed for baths are made with a chimney - they are more economical, since the room warms up quickly, but since the soot in them is deposited on the stones, it is necessary to wait until the wood burns out.

The brick one is made like this: the tank and stones are placed on two cast iron slabs, not completely closed in order to quickly heat the room. The tank is covered on three sides with a brick casing to ensure a high temperature of water heating, while the container is placed directly above the firebox, and stones are placed above the chimney (read also: "").

Brick for arranging a furnace

If the cost of building a stove for a bathhouse is limited, the most ordinary brick, and of average quality, will be enough. But it should be borne in mind that its dimensions do not always correspond to the standard, which is 25x12x65 millimeters, so the seams of the square are not always up to 10 millimeters. Such discrepancies are allowed during the construction of a house, but are unacceptable when creating a stove for a bath. To solve the problem, you should slightly shorten the length of the middle brick that makes up the side of the square, where three bricks are laid one after the other, so that the brick sauna stove can be properly laid out with your own hands. As a result, the oven parameters will decrease and amount to 74x74 centimeters, but the width of the seams will not exceed 5 millimeters.

Do-it-yourself brick sauna stove: design and diagram

You can build a good-quality brick oven with your own hands. This will require a project sauna stove made of brick. In addition, you need basic masonry skills and you should follow the diagram with the presented order down to the centimeter. The work is done step by step. Read also: "".

Step 1: Create the base

First of all, it is necessary to waterproof the reinforced concrete foundation, so that even in the summer heat it will remain cold. The base for the stove is made strong. The foundation must exceed the dimensions of the unit by 10 centimeters. A free space is left at the bottom, which has a small hole in the front; it is called an oven and is used for storing various equipment. It is covered from above with concrete beams or a brick vault with wooden or steel bars. A deck is built on top.

To complete the work, it is necessary to have several pieces of roofing felt equal in size to the area of the bricks, laid on top of the reinforced concrete base. The first two of them will be used to separate the concrete part of the prepared foundation from the initial brick row, and the remaining ones are laid between the furnace mass and the intermediate brick rows.

Then they begin cutting bricks to lay out a wall of 5 rows. Its presence will protect the lining (if you plan to use it) indoors from fire. To make the solution, a cement-sand mixture is used.

In order to carry out the first laying accurately, hang the plumb line in this way: its sharp end should be located above the first row.

Step 2. Preparing clay and sand

At this stage, when brick stoves for a bath are being built, the clay should be prepared, since only the first row is laid out dry. Cement is not used in this case, since it does not tolerate high enough temperatures.

It is possible to build a high-quality stove for a bath only using clay, which is mined at a depth of 0.5 meters. It is well cleaned of impurities and pre-soaked for several days before use. For this purpose, a special ditch is dug near the construction site.

You will also need to prepare sand for the construction of the furnace - it is cleared of various debris and thoroughly sifted, otherwise small particles of pebbles may get into the narrow seams.

The clay is kneaded with a hard object, then water is added and mixed using a hammer drill with a mixer. The consistency of the prepared solution should resemble thick sour cream, only after that purified sand, sprinkled with a little water, is added to it.

The quality of the mixture is checked using a clean, dry stick, it is dipped and removed:

if a 2 mm layer remains on it, then the solution can be used;
if the layer thickness is less than 1 millimeter, more clay should be added;
if the layer size is more than 3 millimeters, more sand is required.

You should not prepare the solution in advance, as it quickly loses its properties. It is better to knead it in small portions.

Step 3. Start laying the sauna stove

After the tools are prepared, they begin laying. When making a brick stove for a bath, the order must be pre-printed. You will also need a square, pliers, emery wheel and a dustpan and broom.

The structural solution of the furnace assumes that the first cleaning door is located in the initial row of the masonry, for which its lower fastening elements are sealed under the bricks. For fastening, galvanized wire of 3 mm diameter is used - it bends better if it is burned a little. To prevent the twisted wire from becoming an obstacle in the future when laying bricks, grooves are first cut into them.

For cleaning doors that exceed the thickness of the bricks, rectangular cutouts are made in them. They should be 3-5 millimeters greater than the height of the protruding part of the doors. At the end of the work, the cracks are filled with clay mortar. Read also: "".

Step 4. Installing a water container

When you build a brick stove for a bathhouse with your own hands, the scheme for its implementation must be completely followed. On at this stage after adjusting the bricks to the wire and laying a new row, they proceed to installing a water tank, if this is planned by the design decision. You can weld a high-quality container yourself by studying. The main point is correct installation tank.

Step 5. Installation of the grate

In the event that two bricks in the basement, laid on edge, do not reach top point fourth row, this means that the manufacturers of the material did not meet the parameters of their products. Using a grinder, two plates are cut out of the new brick so that, together with the mortar, they form a flat surface under the grate. The main thing is that it does not rest against the wall of the firebox. Otherwise, the grate may expand under the influence of high temperature and slightly move the bricks apart. If suddenly it sticks, adjustment will be required.

Step 6. Fitting bricks in the fifth row

If a sauna stove is being built from brick, the order should always be at hand. So, when the scheme provides for the installation of a water tank, a new problem may arise. The fact is that an almost imperceptible discrepancy between bricks and standard sizes can lead to the fact that two bricks that block the smoke channel of the stove at the rear wall will leave wide gaps between them. There is no point in covering them with clay, since it will fall out anyway.

Decide this problem as follows: these bricks are shifted towards the blower by 3 centimeters, making a minimum distance between them, and instead of the third brick, two bars are laid. Their width should be such that the gap between the wood products is invisible. But the left block should be moved forward 1.5 centimeters.

Having completed this work, proceed to double-winding the stove door with an asbestos cord, as well as the tank, in places where it comes into contact with the bricks. This manipulation is done for the purpose of reinsurance - it often happens that they start heating the stove without pouring water into the container.

Step 7. Securing the firebox door

To secure the combustion door, use galvanized wire, even 2 mm will do. For each hole you need to twist three pieces. Otherwise, the method of sealing and fitting is similar to the actions performed when attaching cleaning doors. Twisted 6 wires turn out to be more rigid, but ordinary pliers will help to cope with them.

Step 8. Bricklaying from 6th to 8th rows

At this stage, the same problem may arise as when laying the fifth row - the brick used does not correspond to the standard dimensions. When drawing up drawings, designers expect that high-quality material will be used.

Accordingly, when a brick sauna stove is being built, the order is based on the assumption that the bricks have standard size. Invisible defects lead to the appearance of a gap, but it is useless to seal it with clay; it is better to use bars. Read also: "".

After completing the 9th row, the slab is installed on the basis that its edges will be on the bricks at a distance of 2 - 2.5 centimeters. Next, they begin to arrange the chimney (read also: "").

Brick stove for a bathhouse: video instructions on how to arrange it yourself:

If you are in the Arkhangelsk region, be sure to go to the local bathhouse. This is something special, unique and very original. The stove for the bathhouse is made of brick in Arkhangelsk, made using a special method.

In the local bathhouse, they don’t steam with brooms, but build up the heat and rub the body with honey infused with herbs and berries, which Pomors collect at a strictly designated time. They rub themselves with this mixture and sit for an hour in the steam room, and then they come out and seem to be born again.

It is from here, with White Sea there was a saying - “The bathhouse heals, the bathhouse rules, the bathhouse puts you on your feet.” And for this you need a special stove for the bathhouse.

Usually such a furnace is heated for several hours. There are stories in the literature when the brick stove in the bathhouse was heated from early morning until the end of mass in the church. And only then did they go into it to warm themselves.

Only pine wood was used, as it gives off a special smell. Well, after several hours of calcination of the stove, the air is filled with phytoncides from pine and becomes medicinal. But for such a procedure, a special stove in the bathhouse is needed to withstand such heating.

What brick to use for a bathhouse in Arkhangelsk

If earlier bricks were formed by hand and double or even triple hardening were especially valued, now fireclay (fireproof brick) is used instead. A brick sauna stove must be very voluminous in order to accumulate heat from such a long fire.

Therefore, you need to choose a special brick for its cladding - a brand no lower than M-250. It is also suitable for lining a furnace, and withstands heating and cooling cycles perfectly. In addition, today I’ll tell you two more tricks with which your sauna stove will become even more original and more reliable in operation.

Step 1 prepare the material and workplace

The bathhouse in which we will install this “Pomeranian” stove is made according to the principle of three rooms.

Steam room
Washing department
Rest room.

The stove in the bathhouse will be heated from the rest room. Its glass door will act as a fireplace. The water in the bath, under the action of a pump, is pumped through a special compartment in the stove, through a special device and heated.

Number of bricks for the stove

The total quantity of bricks for the stove is 1200 pieces of ceramic, 120 pieces of fireclay (fireproof) and 150 pieces of silicate for the pipe.

Mix for laying a brick oven

The masonry of the main part of the furnace will be made using a conventional furnace mixture that can withstand temperatures up to 350 degrees. The firebox, chimneys and air ducts use a stove mixture with increased heat resistance. Such a mixture can withstand up to 1000 degrees of heating, although in traditional ovens with natural circulation the air cannot be at that temperature.

On the wall between the steam room and the relaxation room, we draw vertical lines along a plumb line and saw through the opening using a chain saw.

Cuts in the wall for a brick bath

We cut the walls. The saw must be held slightly upward with the guide bar. This way it better picks up the beginning of the cut, pulls the saw down and it follows the line, literally under its own weight. If you tilt the shredder downwards, away from you, then you have to put pressure on the saw and there is a possibility that you will go away from the vertical sawing.

The peculiarity of walls made of rounded logs is that there is no insulation between the logs, which significantly impedes such work by being wound around a chain or on a feed sprocket.

Pay attention to the translation logs under the bathhouse floor. They are red. Don't be surprised - this change in wood color occurred under the influence of an antiseptic. All wooden elements structures that are located below floor level or in conditions with poor ventilation are best covered with a similar solution. Especially if you are not building a structure from dried wood, or wood felled in spring or summer.

We cut right down to the very last log; our task is to start building the stove in the bathhouse, from the very base of the log.

Step 2 - Making the foundation and laying out the base of the oven

Any stove in a brick bathhouse must be installed on a solid foundation; previously, similar structures were placed on the Kremlin part of the pine tree (the lower part above the root). It was very twisted, tarred and immersed in the ground and could withstand several decades.

An example of this is “KIZHI”. Today, all stoves are placed on a concrete pad, poured and reinforced according to a typical pattern. Concrete is prepared at a ratio of 1:3:1

cement: gravel: sand

The pillow is reinforced with a reinforcing bar with a diameter of at least 12 mm, laid according to the principle of a square with a side of 10 cm. The thickness of the pillow is at least 30 cm.

We deepen the base of the pillow by at least 30 cm. The weight of the stove is almost three and a half tons, and therefore it must be securely fixed.

We make formwork, preferably from edged roofing boards, measuring one by one meter. We make formwork in the pit to the full depth of digging. The formwork boards do not need to be removed in the future.

Foundation and stove work is a very dirty process, so cover the floor in the bathhouse plastic film. It’s better to do it reinforced, it will definitely withstand to the end construction work and protects the floor from stove dirt.

To prevent the wall logs from “walking” at the cut site, we tighten them using vertical boards wrapped with basalt cardboard for thermal insulation.

We begin laying out the stove in a brick bathhouse from the foundation. We lay the first row on the wall foundation and join it to the main one.

Laying the foundation

The width of the stove is 75 cm (three bricks), and the cut is approximately 100 cm, so the masonry will be easy and in the future the stove will be safe for a wooden bathhouse.

The main task of the furnace base is to ensure the evenness of the site for the construction of the furnace, so we “drive out” all the unevenness with mortar and help a little by crushing thick masonry seams.

Lay out the base, leveling it with the solution.

Thick seams have to be crushed with chipped bricks; they are on the right in the photo.

Step 3 lay out the oven

After the cement mortar on which the bricks were placed at the base of the furnace has set, we cover it with roofing felt for waterproofing. Then we proceed to laying the starting row of the furnace.

Lay out the starting row. They start it on the facade of the stove.

On the second row we install an air duct system to supply oxygen to the furnace firebox.

This is a “letnik” move to increase air flow and enhance the convection of the oven.

Installing the oven door

We install a door to regulate the air supply.

All furnace fittings will be placed in grooves sawn into the brick. This increases the service life of cast iron products and easier process its installation.

We pre-prepare the bricks, groove them so that the grate fits firmly into the groove.

We install the grate in place, pay attention to the routing of the air ducts. Under the grate is the main air supply duct. But in the summer it is not enough when lighting the stove and it smokes. This is why the “letnik” exists - he is on the right, he comes to his aid.

After this, we begin to prepare the furnace fire door for installation. We need to make it as airtight as possible. Self-adhesive heat-resistant cords are very convenient for this purpose.

Such a cord is glued to the base of any part of the fittings for a brick stove, and serves as an excellent insulator of the connection, both from smoke and from compression shifts when the iron expands. For heating and cooling, the manufacturer claims a guarantee of up to 50 years of operation! It comes in round and flat shapes and is made of basalt.

We fasten such a cord around the perimeter of the firebox door; it is better to make it in several rows.

We screw the door with a twist of steel wire to the stove tape to fix it in the stove masonry.

We fix the door to the masonry using the lower strips of tape and fix it vertical position on masonry.

We make the combustion chamber of the furnace

We make the combustion chamber of the furnace from fireclay bricks. Please note that on the right the “letnik” continues. If at the bottom it played the role of an additional air duct, then at this height it will increase the convection flows in the oven.

We raise the rows of firebox masonry. Be sure to make sure that there is an air gap of at least half a brick between it and the wall.

At this stage we will use a little trick:

We will place flexible corrugated pipes from stainless steel for a water heating system for washing.

Here is a basic heat exchanger - a water heater. Water flowing through it heats up and is supplied hot at the outlet to the sink. The cuts are made under metal-plastic pipe with a cross section of 20 mm.

But it is necessary to take into account that the water will not be running all the time, so our task is to make sure that this system did not burst from expansion of water when heated. Therefore, we place it not in the combustion chamber, as in large bath complexes, but in the “letnik”.

A method for fixing a stove tape with a bend and screwing a self-tapping screw into a masonry seam.

This is how the heat exchanger (water heater) will be safe.

Making an overlap

We make it in a slightly tricky way without metal corners, which are sure to become deformed from prolonged heating. Therefore, we lay the flooring with a partial overlap. To prevent the bricks from falling, we press them down until we lay out the next row. This operation requires some skill and should definitely be done only with a partner.

We leave no more than ¼ of a brick to be cut for the summer draft, and we make the entire volume of the furnace higher up the masonry not hollow but solid.

The ceiling has a partial overlap, vertically placed bricks do not give the bricks a base to fall, then, when the strapping is inserted and the mortar sets, everything will be like a single monolith.

Water heater pipe outlet

The outlet of the water heater pipes, in places where the pipe is in the masonry, is additionally wrapped with asbestos thread.

On the 19th row of the front part of the masonry of our stove, we install an additional door; it will be useful to us when the stove in the bathhouse is heated. By opening it, we let heated air into the room. Inside the oven, above this door, the “letnik” ends.

We adjust the verticality of the masonry by lightly tapping with a rubber mallet.

We don't finishing furnace masonry. We leave a little solution on it; we will need it for one stove trick.

While the furnace wall is being laid out, the assistants are preparing the chimney from sandwiches. I described in more detail how and why it is flared in “stove tricks”. Therefore, I will not dwell on this in detail.

That's the stove-makers' trick :

To give your stove individuality, you can “age” it a little or give the brick a nobility, as you like. You will need a grinder and a ceramic cutting wheel

We give a decent appearance to brick

Using a sander that has not been cleaned of solution, we try to clean off the deposits using light pressure. It is partially removed from such influence, and partially pressed into the brick. It is very effective if you throw Xerox paint (fine coal dust) onto the masonry. In this case, the brick really ages and the autumn looks spectacular!

When the work on aging the brick is completed, we begin installing the view on the pipe.

We attach a basalt cord, which in the masonry will act as a sealant and sealant at the same time.

Installing the view

The view and pipe casing will be in the steam room.

By the way, in the steam room we also don’t forget to age the brick, this will give it a special look. This color and surface texture is very similar to Belgian kiln brick hand molded. It is very rare in Russia and is very expensive, so you can easily say that the brick was brought to you by special order from Belgium.

Look how the Arkhangelsk style brick bathhouse turned out! – you’ll just fall in love!

This process is very time-consuming. On average, one wall takes up to five hours of work. But, it's worth it.

In addition, be sure to protect the walls from settling dust, which will be a lot during this work. The easiest way is to cover them with plastic wrap, or you can do it simpler. From garden sprayer, very lightly spray the oven with water. There will be much less dust, and the colors will be even more interesting, just do not overdo it with pressure on the brick; with strong pressure, the pattern will turn out unnatural and very heterogeneous.

But there is a way out of this situation. If you feel that the result is unnatural and pretentious, simply attach a sanding whisk attachment to a powerful drill. metal surfaces and go through the oven again. In a word, FANTASY!

And remember that it is not the Gods who burn the pots. Even the most experienced master once built his first and very ugly stove in a bathhouse, but he tried, and he succeeded, try and you will succeed too! Have an easy steam!

Despite the fact that a brick oven takes longer to warm up, it is able to provide more uniform heating of the steam room and the absence of “cold zones”. Experienced steamers claim that it is comfortable to be in such a room even at high temperatures.

Brick kilns They are quite complex devices, and their laying requires special skills. You can do it yourself, but only if you strictly follow the laying scheme (order) and know certain subtleties.

Do you need a foundation?

Such a structure will have significant weight, so a solid foundation must be built before installing it. Some experts argue that if the building is built on a solid foundation, a separate construction for the furnace is not required. However, in marshy areas or northern regions where, due to temperature changes, even carefully compacted soil will “play”, it is better to provide separate foundation.

Cut load-bearing beams and logs for its construction, rafters and floor beams for the chimney outlet are undesirable, so it is better to choose a place for the stove before the construction of the building begins.

Important! Such a foundation should not be tied to the main one, since due to the large temperature difference during heating, the expansion coefficient will be too large. The distance between the main and furnace foundations should be at least half a meter.

Foundation for a sauna stove

Construction of the foundation for the furnace

Pit depth determined based on the properties of the soil: when high density 20-50 cm is enough; in loose soils it goes deeper by 50-100 cm. Its width should be a brick larger than the base of the stove. Before laying begins, sand is poured onto the bottom, which is thoroughly poured with water to compact it, then crushed stone or broken brick is laid and compacted tightly.

Important! Cement-sand mortar completely hardens and gains strength for at least a week, so erect a heavy stove before it completely dry shouldn't.

The surface of the foundation should not reach the floor level to the height of two bricks. 2 layers are placed on the finished base waterproofing: roofing felt impregnated with tar mastic or roofing felt treated with bitumen solution. The gaps between the foundation and the floor are filled with sand and compacted.

The foundation can also be made of solid brick or rubble (large building stone irregular shape), which are laid out on the filled cement mortar base. The penultimate row of the brick foundation is also covered with a layer of waterproofing.

Laying the foundation

Start of masonry

What is order?

In order called detailed diagram masonry, indicating the order of placement of bricks in each row. For work, you should choose the order of the stove corresponding to the size of the steam room. For example, if the heater is located above the firebox, to ensure maximum heating, the firebox is made at least 0.5 m. For a steam room volume of up to 12 square meters. m and a 40 liter water tank, the size of the heater with dry steam will be 0.77 × 0.5 m. The height of the firebox should be about 0.5 m.

In the absence of proper experience, it is better not to change the scheme. If the room is non-standard, and any changes are still required, it is better to show the adjusted order to an experienced specialist.

The masonry diagram in any drawings always starts from the zero row. It is necessary to bring the foundation to the floor level. It is not difficult to determine the height of the future structure: in the diagram, each division is 10 cm and equal to the average height of the brick.

The two pictures below show an example of a brick oven with a water tank and its arrangement. The diagram shows that the bricks are laid in different ways: with a spoon (on their side) or with a bed (the wide part) down.

Stove-heater with tank

Arrangement of a heater with a tank located at the top

Sand-clay solution

Cement does not tolerate high temperatures well, so it is not used for ovens. Masonry is made using a solution of clay, mined at a sufficient depth without impurities of earth and other foreign inclusions, and sand.

Start of masonry

Before starting work, the clay should stand in water for several days and soften. Before combining with sand, it is thoroughly mixed with water to the consistency of thick, thick sour cream. The remaining lumps can be broken up using construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment.

To prevent pebbles and small stones from getting into the narrow seams, the sand is carefully sifted. To lay refractory bricks, clay and sand are mixed in proportion 1:2. To prevent the solution from drying out, the batch is prepared in small portions. The solution should be slightly rough, as elastic as possible and should lie without tears.

But the fat content of clay varies, and the fatter it is, the more sand should be in the solution. That is why experienced stove makers check the viscosity by shaking it from a stick or trowel.

The normal thickness of the layer remaining after shaking is 2 mm. If it is less, clay is added. If the consistency of the solution resembles plasticine, and after shaking, more than 3 mm of solution remains, more sand should be added to the mixture.

Brick selection

If you plan to fire coal or gas, fireproof fireproof material is used for the work. quality brick frost resistance up to 25 cycles. For a wood-burning stove, it is better to use its refractory (Gzhel type) variety. Hollow and silicate types are not used, as they quickly collapse under the influence of high temperatures.

Sometimes, in order to save money, only the firebox is laid out with refractory (clamotte) bricks, and the rest of the furnace is covered with ordinary silicate bricks. But, since their coefficient of thermal expansion is different, you should not combine them in a harness.

You can check the quality of a brick by simply tapping it with any hard object. If there is no defect, the sound will not be dull, but ringing, “metallic”. Products with visible cracks, foreign inclusions or excessive porosity should not be used. High-quality fireclay bricks have a rich yellowish (sand) tint, while unfired bricks have a pale and dull color.

Fireclay brick

Furnace laying

Before laying, to improve adhesion and prevent dehydration of the mortar, the brick is soaked in water for several minutes until bubbles are released. Fireclay bricks can only be immersed in water briefly to remove dust.

The first row of bricks should be laid dry on the foundation without using a sand-clay mixture. During subsequent laying, the thickness of the mortar layer should be 3-6 mm. The layer and the bonded part of the brick are coated with the solution. At the selected place, you should move it slightly, and then, tapping with a trowel, press it tightly.

Bricklaying

To strengthen the structure, bricks are laid with offset next row by 30-50% and overlap the joint. When working, you will definitely need halves and quarters. To prevent cracks from forming, cutting It is better to do this using a grinder equipped with a diamond blade.

Laying halves and parts of bricks

In the places adjacent to the bricks, the door is insulated with asbestos, 4 strong wires or strips of galvanized sheet are screwed to it using bolts and washers, which will be laid in the seams of the masonry. To achieve density according to the size of the wire, grooves are cut in the bricks.

Door installation

To ensure better heating, bath stones are placed on a steel or cast iron grate. The fewer there are, the drier the steam will be in the room. In a Russian bath, the weight of stones is at least 50-60, in a sauna - 30 kg.

in order to ideally select bricks in size, each row of them is first placed dry without mortar, the excess length is carefully trimmed, the bricks are numbered, and then assembled in a row already with mortar;
a stove laid out unevenly will not last long, so even the slightest deviations should not be allowed: after laying each row, it is better to check the horizontal and vertical using a level; the accuracy of the angles is additionally determined using plumb lines or a corner;
In order for the grate and doors to last as long as possible, it is better to choose not steel, but more refractory cast iron;
in a wood-burning stove, the grate and door are located at the same level; when heating with coal, the grate should be 20 cm below the firebox;
when laying the grate, be sure to leave gaps for thermal expansion; To do this, if necessary, the brick is cut to the required size;

Grate installation

A small ventilation slot should be provided above the door, which will protect it from overheating, or the bricks should be cut in this place with a wedge;
to ensure better air flow and complete combustion of fuel, grate bars are laid only along the blower channel;
halves and quarters are best used in the top rows;
To prevent the clay from cracking over time, the oven can be reinforced with clay and a steel mesh; the fastening wire for it is already provided in the masonry.

Construction of pipes and chimneys

Iron chimneys have a serious drawback: when temperatures change, condensation forms on them, which “attracts” soot, so it is better to build them from brick.

Important! Only whole bricks are placed in the chimney. Due to the risk of them falling out, the use of halves and cracked parts is unacceptable. The chimney wall must be perfectly flat. Otherwise, lumps of soot will accumulate in the corners, and the shaft will quickly become clogged. It is advisable to round off the protrusions along the entire smoke path.

When installing a chimney, several rules must be followed:
Hailom called the system of passages connecting the chamber with fuel and the chimney; the size of its lower part depends on the width of the firebox and on average is 3/4 of a brick; its cross-sectional area should be about 60-65% of the total area of the chimney;
all places where smoke passes should be immediately cleaned and the remaining solution should be completely removed;
it is unacceptable to narrow the chimney channel - it must be the same along its entire length; in addition, its cross-section cannot be less than the cross-section of the hail, and its total length from the edge of the pipe to the grate is at least 5 m;

Chimney laying

When laying a chimney and firebox, it is better to place the bricks with the most burned side facing the fire and smoke;
if the chimney is too short the smoke will not have time to cool down, and the heat will simply fly away into the chimney;
to protect against fire where it passes through the ceiling, the pipe is additionally lined with bricks and wrapped in heat-resistant material;

Finishing the junction of the pipe to the ceiling

The height of the pipe after the roof ridge must be at least 0.5 m;
so that the damage can be easily determined, the pipe is whitened with lime mortar: in this case, the places of smoke leakage can be easily identified by traces of soot.

Test firing of the stove

It is believed that a stove that is perfectly dried before the first lighting will last longer, so it is better to leave it for a couple of weeks with the doors open until it is completely dry. If there is no rain, the pipe valve is also left open. The room itself should also be ventilated these days.

Test kindling is carried out with a small amount (about 500 g) of paper. This is done in order to determine the presence of draft and remove residual moisture from the oven. The blower should be completely open at this moment. After this, the oven is left for another day.

Advice. If it's damp outside, the fire may not burn well the first time. In this case, in order to “push” the air upward, you can burn a newspaper rolled into a tube in the upper cleaning door or view.

Subsequent kindling with wood chips and a small amount of firewood should be carried out carefully. Maximum quantity fuel can be added only after several kindlings. An ideally built stove does not smoke and heats up evenly. You can determine the degree of warming up by touching your hand different parts its surface. A brick oven should also cool evenly.

The density of the masonry and the absence of cracks are determined by burning materials that produce a lot of smoke in the smoke channel. If cracks are found through which smoke will pass, they are covered with a solution.

Smoke movement pattern

The manufacture of brick stoves, which are used in baths, requires special approach to the design and the presence of various additions. The master must not only take into account the temperature inside the firebox, but also count on changes outside. That is why, when it is created for a bathhouse, the designs and arrangements for it are carried out taking into account the room itself, the personal preferences of the users, installation features and fire safety equipment.

Design Features

First of all, you need to choose the type of product. At the same time, it is worth paying attention to more modern projects since they have a number of add-ons that allow you to implement certain functions. They are worth considering separately, since they are very important point when making drawings.

Kamenka

This attribute is very important when creating just such structures. The fact is that the fuel heats the stones, which maintain the temperature for a long time and form steam when water hits them. Therefore, the method of manufacturing this unit must be approached responsibly.

It is best to create a closed heater, which is based on cast iron bars. However, when a sauna stove is made from brick, diagrams, drawings and projects miss this point, displaying only the grate and the chamber itself. Taking this into account, it is worth choosing the principle of material arrangement and its quantity yourself.

Water tank

When using a bathhouse, you simply need to have constant access to hot water. At the same time, it is needed both in the steam room itself and in the washing room. Some people prefer to solve this issue by installing a heater, but it is better to use brick sauna stoves, the designs of which require their own heating systems.

It is worth noting that there are a lot of designs for implementing this method of heating water, but it is better to use combined option, allowing you to obtain a fairly large volume of liquid. He assumes that elements will be added to the arrangement of the furnace that will make it possible to use the structure as a stove, which will allow the liquid to be heated in the steam room itself. Also, a tank is installed on the chimney pipe, which receives the temperature during kindling and maintains it for a long time.

If you are creating projects for brick baths with a relaxation room and a terrace, then it is very important to combine these points correctly with each other in order to provide yourself with comfortable conditions at minimal expense. Hot water may be needed in any room, which means the tank for it should be large and located in the attic of the building itself. With such a design there will be no problems in this area.

Selection of materials

Making a stove is a very responsible process that requires a special approach to the selection of materials. Therefore, when done brick instruction The installation technician recommends very carefully inspecting literally every element of the structure to look for damage. Considering that the product will withstand sudden changes in temperature, even minor defects or factory-tested defects are not allowed.

Firebox stone

It’s worth noting right away that ordinary cobblestones are completely unsuitable for this. The fact is that simple stones can have a number of additional inclusions or microcracks, which, with strong heating and sudden cooling, can affect the material negative impact. Such objects will either fall apart and turn into sand, or explode under the influence of internal stress.

Taking into account such features, when creating designs for a brick stove for a bathhouse, you need to focus on a specific material in advance. Jadeite, soapstone or ordinary stone are best suited for these purposes. However, if you want to save money, you can use basalt or vulcanite.

Brick

It is believed that ordinary solid red brick can be used to create a firebox. It behaves very well under temperature changes and has a fairly long service life. However, when drawings and designs of bathhouse stoves made of metal and brick are created, it is best to use fireclay material to make the firebox.

The fact is that ordinary red brick is perfect for making the structure itself, but it will quickly collapse in the firebox, where it will be exposed to moisture. This factor is also influenced by the fact that such structures are not used very often.

Clay

It is best to use clay mixed with sand to make stoves. However, the process of preparing the solution must be approached very responsibly. The fact is that there are no exact proportions for its preparation, since the fat content of a particular clay is unknown, which means that everything will have to be done based on the consistency of the composition.

Clay must be taken at a depth of at least two meters. It is very important that it does not have additional inclusions.
Then the extracted material is poured with water and allowed to stand for a day. Although some masters do not do this.
At the next stage, the clay needs to be kneaded by adding water to it. The result should be a soft mixture that sticks to your hands.
After this, sand is introduced into the solution, continuing to mix it.

The quality of the composition is checked by immersing a stick in it and examining the thickness of the adhering layer. It should be approximately 2 mm. If the layer thickness is less, then add a little clay to the composition, and if more, then sand is added to the mixture.

Additional items

Almost always, brick stove designs for a bathhouse contain metal inserts that play the role of doors and other systems. They can be purchased ready-made or even as a complete set. Such products are sold in specialized stores or on the market. building materials.

Choosing similar additional elements, it is very important to immediately pay attention to the sizes. Sometimes it is very difficult to find exactly the door that is indicated in the project and fits in size. Therefore, craftsmen purchase products that are very close in size, which involves subsequent adjustment of the bricks.

Manufacturing

Usually a brick stove for a bath is completed in a month from design to masonry. However, a lot of this time is spent on hardening the foundation. Therefore, when starting work, you need to take this point into account and correctly allocate time for all processes.

Foundation

First you need to dig a pit according to the size of the future foundation. At the same time, designs for a brick stove for a bathhouse strongly recommend that there be at least 0.5 m between the walls and the foundation. Also, its width should be several centimeters greater than the dimensions of the future structure.
The depth of the pit should be 0.7 meters, and a 5 cm layer of sand is placed on its bottom. At the same time, it is spilled with water to compact it.
Then broken bricks are placed in the hole, which is also sprinkled with sand and spilled with water. The thickness of this layer is usually 25 cm.
At the next stage, the formwork is made. It is made in such a way that the finished foundation rises 10-15 cm above the surface. It is also created metal frame from reinforcement, which is placed in the formwork.
Next, concrete is poured. At this moment it is very important to create a flat surface, which will greatly facilitate further work.
After the concrete has hardened, two layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation. It will act as a kind of waterproofing, protecting the structure from moisture.

Masonry

This process is the main one in the manufacture of a brick sauna stove. The projects for which it is carried out are called orders. This is a graphic representation of the location of each brick in a separate row.

There is simply huge amount various designs furnaces for which several completely different orders can be made. Therefore, each person chooses a project specifically for himself, based on personal preferences and the desire to implement certain technical characteristics.

Laying is done using clay mortar. Asbestos sheets will also be required. They are used as a fireproof and thermal layer between the firebox and the casing.

If in this process it is necessary to trim the brick, it is better to do this using a special tool so that cracks or internal stress do not appear. A rapid saw or cutting wheel for concrete work is very suitable for these purposes.

All additional elements that are installed in the masonry have certain fastening systems. Usually they are not original and are very easy to install. However, there are models of these products that require special fixation, which must be taken into account when purchasing.

When installing metal additional elements, it is very important that there is a small gap between them and the brick. It is needed as a kind of compensator when heating. It can be filled with asbestos or use a special heat-resistant

Chimney

This design is usually part of the order when a brick stove is made for a bathhouse. The projects display only the main exit system from the firebox and the intersection of the ceilings. However, if a structure with a tank is being created, then it is better to use a different approach.

On the modern building materials market there is a special material for sale for the manufacture of chimneys. It has the form of concrete blocks, inside of which ceramic inserts in the form of pipes are located in the insulation. When assembled, they create a complete chimney system.

Such materials simply have a long service life and have proven themselves to be excellent in maintenance. Their installation is quite simple, and even a beginner can handle it.

When passing a pipe through a ceiling or roof, it is worth using special modular inserts, which are sold ready-made. They have a relatively low cost and greatly simplify all the work.

If you plan to install a tank for heating water, then you also need to pay attention to factory products. Among them, you can select a container of the required volume, which has seats for fixing on the chimney. Self-production such structures sometimes lead to unnecessary expenses and time consumption.

Conclusion

The process of designing and manufacturing furnaces of this type is quite complex and responsible. It may require the performer to possess certain skills and abilities. Given this complexity, it is worth entrusting this process to professionals.

A do-it-yourself sauna stove is made when the devices industrial production the homeowner is not happy with something. The thing is that a bathhouse is characterized by the creation of a unique microclimate, since it maintains a strictly defined indicator of humidity and temperature, depending on the type of steam room. The steam room can have a wide variety of configurations, sizes and placement of shelves. As a result, store-bought stoves do not always heat the stove efficiently, and you have to make the necessary structure yourself.

Requirements for homemade sauna stoves

In any case, homemade sauna stoves must meet certain requirements. For example, they must be absolutely safe in terms of fire. This is especially important when iron stove for a bathhouse, made by yourself, installed in rooms with wooden walls. At the same time, they must maintain a comfortable temperature level in your bath.

In addition, there are purely technical issues that any oven must withstand. Firstly, according to general requirement In bath art, to create light and pleasant steam, it is necessary that the stones in the oven heat up to 200-700 °C. To do this, it is necessary to properly equip the firebox and chimney.

If the sauna stove is properly welded or laid out, it will maintain a temperature near the floor of 40-45 °C and under the shelf of 90-100 °C during steaming and washing. This heat will allow the steamer to stay in the bathhouse for a long time without any damage to his health. In this case, the heat must remain in the stove for at least 3 hours from the moment the fuel supply to it ends.

Secondly, it must be arranged efficient system removal of carbon monoxide, smoke and other combustion products. Otherwise, instead of receiving pleasure, steamers face serious harm to health, and even death from suffocation. Ventilation system and the chimney can be either natural or working with the help of a supercharger.

Thirdly, you need to choose the right place to install the stove. So, for example, installing a stove in a bathhouse built with your own hands is carried out exclusively on a specially built foundation. This protects the bathhouse from fire and allows you to build walls and other structural elements lighter foundation structure.

A metal welded stove must also be installed in accordance with special requirements; for example, in order to protect the building from fire, it is sometimes lined with bricks. In the same case, when this cannot be done, it is necessary to install it at some distance from the walls, and place a thick sheet of asbestos on the floor under it.

Optimal technical parameters of homemade sauna stoves

Made with your own hands, it must also meet some optimal technical parameters. For example, it must have a sufficiently high heat transfer power, since with its help the air and stones are heated for steam generation in the steam room, and in addition, also the air in adjacent rooms. For normal functioning of the bath complex, the stove power must be at least 28 kW.

The design of the stove must be adapted to the room in which it will be placed. For example, there are designs with open and closed heaters, as well as entire steam generators, which require a large area for their placement.

Majority technical parameters stoves directly affect fuel consumption and, accordingly, the payment for it.

In addition, all home-made stoves must be designed and assembled taking into account the characteristics of the floor or foundation of both the stove, in the case of its construction, and the entire building. The fact is that if, for example, you weld a massive metal stove, then the floor of the bathhouse may simply not support it, but you also need to take into account the weight of the fuel loaded into it.

Thus, when planning to make a stove for a steam room yourself, you will first need to make calculations and find out whether your design can, in principle, be placed in a bathhouse. Next, you need to draw up a construction plan or, better yet, a project. By adhering to them, you will be able to optimally equip your bathhouse, ensuring its efficient heating.

Types of stoves for baths

If you are planning to make such a device yourself, you should select drawings for this taking into account the material from which you plan to make it, as well as the type of fuel with which you are going to heat the bathhouse. The following designs are currently popular:

metal;
brick.

Depending on the type of fuel used, stoves for a sauna complex can be divided into several categories:

wood and coal fired stoves;
furnaces operating using gas as fuel;
electric stoves for baths.

If you know how to weld a sauna stove with your own hands, you should also have an idea of the advantages of this design.

For example, metal stoves are resistant even to serious mechanical damage, heat up quickly and have long term operation. At the same time, among metal stoves, cast iron products are most in demand, since they do not deform under the influence of heat and retain heat for a long time. In everyday life, they are most often made of stainless steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm.

The disadvantage of metal stoves is their high fire hazard, since at high temperatures the metal becomes hot, and if flammable material gets on it, a fire may occur. Stone stoves are free from this drawback, but they are expensive, afraid of mechanical damage, and not every stove maker can now put them together.

As for fuel, most stoves for country baths are powered by wood. In this case, not only the firewood itself is used, but wood waste and pellets. The advantages of such systems include: efficiency, low fuel cost, independence from electrical wiring and gas pipelines.

It is also worth noting such a circumstance as the unique atmosphere created during the holiday. On to the minuses wood stoves The following points include: long heating of the premises and the stove itself, the need to frequently clean the chimney, as well as the obligation of the bathhouse owner to always keep and replenish the supply of firewood.

In turn, they can work fully automatically, without human intervention. They begin to work from the moment the electricity is turned on or the gas is ignited in the firebox. As a result, the steam room is prepared for steaming in literally 10-15 minutes. At the same time, these types of sauna stoves require high-quality and efficient ventilation. In addition, bathhouse experts note the fact that gas will cost more than firewood, and electricity will be cheaper.

Making a homemade metal stove

A do-it-yourself bathhouse stove made of iron is made in accordance with standard drawings, which can be quite easily found on the Internet. First, you will need to select the material and tools necessary for the work. In this case, you will perform almost all operations on assembling the furnace using welding machine and an angle grinder.

As for the material, you will need a metal sheet, preferably chrome-plated, with a thickness of at least 5 mm. He'll go to the ash pit. You can use such a sheet on the stove frame and at the same time metal corner, thickness 3-5 mm.

To make the firebox and the bottom of the water tank, you will have to prepare thicker material - 7-10 mm. Will also be needed metal pipes of different diameters for arranging the chimney and stove piping system. But the doors for the firebox will need to be purchased ready-made at a construction and household goods store. It is best if they are made of cast iron, but if necessary, you can weld them yourself from the remains of a thick-walled pipeline.

You can also buy a mesh for stones, but in any case, fittings and shut-off valves, as well as grate bars will have to be purchased, since it will not be possible to make these elements yourself. They are inexpensive, so you can buy them quite easily.

After the material has been prepared, you can begin assembling the furnace. To do this, take a drawing and, based on it, begin to cut out blanks using an angle grinder and weld them together. At the same time special attention It is worth paying attention to the assembly of the chimney and firebox as the most critical areas of the entire structure.

Separately, it is worth noting the fact that when the question arises of how to make a stove for a bathhouse with your own hands, people always wonder whether it is necessary metal structure cover with bricks? This decision is opposed by the possible excessive consumption of fuel, because the furnace, in addition to metal, will also have to heat the brick. However, everything can be compensated by the beautiful appearance your steam room and the unique microclimate created in the room by the heated brick.

Homemade stone oven

The second popular option for heating a bath, along with metal products, is a stone stove. The fact is that a heater stove for a bath, built with your own hands, forms a unique Russian design in the steam room. In addition, a stone stove generates high-quality heat and air in the bathhouse, and therefore will not have any foreign odors or inclusions.

Construction of such heating system begins with laying the foundation. Usually a foundation pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm, and its bottom is lined with a mixture of sand and crushed stone. Then broken brick is added, water is poured on it and the reinforcement is laid after it has dried, after which the pit is filled with concrete.

In this case, before pouring begins, formwork is installed, protruding 15 cm above the ground. After the filling procedure is completed, it is removed, and you have a finished foundation at your disposal. For waterproofing purposes, its sides are coated with several layers of tar, and the free space between its walls and the ground is filled with fine gravel and coarse sand.

A do-it-yourself brick sauna stove is a rather complex structure, so if you do not have the skills to lay stoves, then you should entrust such work to an experienced stove maker. In the same case, when your knowledge is quite enough for laying of this building, you will need to start laying the walls of the furnace. In this case, you should be guided by a pre-prepared scheme that can be found on the Internet.

When laying masonry into a solid wall, doors for the heater and firebox are installed. Through them the stove will be loaded with fuel, and it will be possible to supply water to the heater. Next, a grate is installed above the combustion chamber, having gaps of 5 mm on each side, taking into account thermal expansion. A pre-prepared tank for storing water is also installed above the heater; it can be purchased ready-made, or you can weld it yourself from thick-walled metal.

In any case, the masonry must begin from the door in order to be well strengthened in the wall mass. While working, constantly check the evenness of the masonry using a level and plumb line. The fact is that to create a strong structure, the masonry must be perfectly level, and the vertical seam between the bricks must be overlapped by the bricks of the next row.

There are several elements of stone ovens that must be completed. So this is a chamber for heating stones, a chimney, as well as a compartment for storing firewood or a firebox. Each of the oven elements has its own nuances in the layout. So, for example, between the boiler and the walls of the furnace in mandatory leave a gap for the rapid passage of hot gases and heating of water. There should also be a gap of thirteen centimeters between the roof sheathing and the pipe to avoid fire.

Particular attention will need to be paid to the arrangement of the chimney, since if it is not installed correctly, it may remain in the bathhouse. carbon monoxide. As a result, steamers can get poisoned or even die while taking bath procedures.

Furnace layout is completed finishing works. To do this, you can plaster it, or you can leave the wall as is, in natural form, simply covering the brick with heat-resistant varnish. As a result you will get original design interior of your steam room.