Treatment of chipboard from moisture for floors. How to protect kitchen furniture made of chipboard from water. How to impregnate chipboard from moisture

Chipboard is an excellent construction material, but is not very attractive in comparison with wood, and is also particularly susceptible to the influence of factors external environment. Products made from chipboard receive certain protection during the manufacturing process. For this, all kinds of impregnations and additives are used. However, under intensive operating conditions, such factory measures are not enough, so it is recommended to further protect the material. About how to protect chipboard and also process it finishing materials, will be discussed below.

Surface treatment of plates

Facial and inner part the slabs have the most large areas, so if they are not protected, they are subject to greatest number moisture. At the same time as protection, you can decorate the material. Below are several such techniques.

Lamination

The lamination process involves finishing chipboard with paper-resin films. The lining is carried out at high temperature (150-200 degrees) and high pressure (25-30 MPa). The protective and decorative layer occurs due to the spreading of hot resin over the surface. The resin then polymerizes, forming a hard, uniform coating.

If the technological process is followed, reliable adhesion occurs between the chipboard and the resin. During lamination, a certain surface texture is created - usually gloss or. Laminated surfaces are resistant to mechanical stress, moisture, ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures.

Laminating

During lamination, the chipboard is covered with an adhesive layer, on which hard paper-resin unvarnished films are then placed. The difference between lamination and lamination is that when laminating decorative coating glued to the plate in finished form. For example, wood grain embossing is done in advance. Such films are called “finishing films”.

As in the case of lamination, when processing material using the laminating method, increased pressure and high temperature are also used. However, the parameters in this case are more gentle: temperature - from 20 to 150 degrees, pressure - from 5 to 7 MPa.

The disadvantage of laminating is that the coating is unstable to mechanical stress and moisture. This surface is easily scratched and swollen. Lamination is used mainly in the manufacture of inexpensive furniture, as well as for the production of parts that are not subject to aggressive influences. environment(for example, the back walls of a cabinet).

Paint coating

A non-laminated chipboard sheet can be coated in several layers paint and varnish material. The sequence of work is presented below:

remove dust and dirt from the sheet;
coat the chipboard sheet with heated drying oil;
coat the sheet again, but this time with cold drying oil (a thin crust should appear);
apply the first layer of paint;
After the first layer has dried, apply the second.

Finishing with paper-laminated polymers

Laminated plastic is a polymer in which there are niches for filler. Fabric, paper, veneer and other materials are used as filler. The basis for the manufacture of paper-laminated filler is paper. It acts as a reinforcing layer, and also gives the layered polymer ductility, strength and visual appeal.

Finishing begins with cutting chipboard sheets of the required size. Using compressed air and brushes, dirt and dust are removed from the sheets. If contamination is not removed before painting, high-quality adhesion will not work.

Pasting facing material is carried out by direct pressing of a paper-laminated polymer, onto which glue and chipboard are previously applied. Pressing can be done hot (using adhesives based on urea or PVA) or cold (using contact adhesives PVA dispersion). In practice, cold pressing is not used very often, since the process requires large areas and the productivity is relatively low.

The finishing is completed by postforming. The task is to give the plastic bends and other irregular shapes. The process is carried out on special equipment at elevated temperatures.

Pasting with polymer films

The process of applying polymer films is similar to decorative cladding plastics. The difference lies in the materials used. In this case we are talking about a thermoplastic film applied by pressing to chipboard treated with an adhesive composition.

For chipboard finishing PVC films are used. Polystyrene and acrylic films are occasionally used.

Finishing with polymer films is carried out on the same technological equipment, on which finishing materials such as veneer or paper-laminated polymers are applied. The cladding process can be either hot or cold.

The advantage of cladding using the polymer method is the ability to process profile parts. However, the use of polymer films has limited potential, since the coating does not have high physical and mechanical properties and is also unstable to temperature influences.

Vacuum pressing

Vacuum (or, as it is otherwise called, membrane) pressing is a technological process during which furniture is covered with decorative film. The main advantage of the method is the ability to coat parts of complex shapes.

For example, using membrane pressing you can veneer furniture self made with all kinds of recesses, cutouts, miniature parts, etc. The part is placed in vacuum press, where a heated polyvinyl chloride film fits tightly around it, repeating the surface relief.

Veneering

The correct name for the process is veneering. However, the term “veneering” is often used in everyday life. Natural veneer can be used to decorate both chipboard and furniture board. Veneered furniture is of higher quality than laminated furniture. However, maintaining the safety of veneered furniture is quite difficult, since veneer is not as durable as laminate.

Table top made of chipboard or MDF

For finishing chipboard sheet or MDF you will need plastic (laminated paper, polycarbonate, polystyrene).

Work progress:

We cut out the necessary parts from the chipboard and connect them with a stapler.
The joints between the chipboard base parts must be identical. If this is not the case, smooth them out with sandpaper.
We make facings for the ends.
We cut the facing part using a grinder.
We glue the finishing material and secure it with light blows of a rubber hammer.
We install the end trim level with the bottom edge of the tabletop.
At the same time, coat the base and apron with glue.
When installing laminate flooring, we use separators. After installing the sheet, remove the dividers.
Smooth the surface with a roller.
Using a router, cut a hole under the sink.
When the structure is assembled, we sand all the edges.

Protection of joints and edges

Any liquid always seeks and finds the lowest place on the surface. The joints are recesses and are therefore vulnerable to water penetration. There are a considerable number of joints in cabinet furniture, where the main structural material is chipboard.

Because of high humidity and frequent contact with liquids, kitchen furniture is especially vulnerable. The sink, countertop, and furniture next to the stove are the most frequently moistened pieces of furniture in the house. An example is the part of the countertop that is in contact with the mixer. Sooner or later, the faucet leaks, which means that unprotected chipboard will inevitably begin to get wet and collapse.

To protect the joints, we first clean these places and dry them with a hairdryer. Then we apply PVA glue to the joints, and when it dries, we treat the protected surface with silicone or, alternatively, construction sealant.

If there is no tray in the cupboard, then sooner or later the liquid draining from the wet dishes will destroy the chipboard. Therefore, the material must be degreased and then treated with a sealant.

We seal the seams with sanitary silicone in the color of the furniture. This will prevent mold from growing on the furniture.

In those places on the edges of the tabletop where there is no lamination, we install end or connecting strips. These elements can be made of metal or plastic. Planks are not perfect protection, so the edges still need to be pre-treated with sealant. Another common method of protecting chipboard is applying PVA glue or furniture varnish.

Protection of joints on the floor

The main difficulty in protecting joints on the floor is that such slabs are subject to increased mechanical loads and constantly shift slightly under load. Because of this, the putty does not adhere well to the chipboard.

To ensure protection of joints on the floor, the seams are treated epoxy resin, mixed with sawdust. Moreover, the sawdust must be very fine - it must be sifted in advance.

Pay attention! The epoxy-sawdust composition sets extremely quickly. Based on this, you should not mix too much putty at once.

A mixture of epoxy and sawdust will reliably protect the joints, but the cost of such a solution is quite high. You can replace epoxy resin with wood glue. You need to add sawdust to the hot glue, and then treat the seams with the resulting composition. If done correctly, the effect will be even better than when treated with epoxy resin, since the glue penetrates deeper.

After processing the seams, the chipboard joints will become more resistant to moisture and, just as important, they will stop “playing” with each other. If you decorate the chipboard with linoleum, you no longer have to worry about the safety of the slabs.

After processing the seams, it will take several days for the putty to dry. At this time, you cannot walk on the slabs so as not to disturb the joints.

Coating chipboard with protective and finishing materials in many cases requires certain experience and qualifications, and sometimes even the presence special equipment. If you are not sure about own strength, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

The kitchen is a place in the house where furniture is constantly in contact with water to a greater or lesser extent. Based on this fact, the question will be completely obvious: how to protect your loved one? furniture set from moisture. After all, everyone knows the sad consequences of contact between water and chipboard (even waterproof): lumps, swelling, mold, and with a long “union” all this beauty, on which so much effort and money was spent, will simply rot.

So, let's identify the places most at risk:

washing
wardrobe with built-in drying
plinth
furniture above the stove and located in close proximity to it
table top edges

Now let’s decide what measures need to be taken to protect your kitchen and enjoy its “marketable” appearance for many years.

Correct installation of sink and faucet

As for the sink, I would recommend not cutting the faucet directly into the countertop, as the faucet may start to leak. An exception, perhaps, can be made for small taps from filters with drinking water, since they are used less often, and the water pressure is not so powerful, the gasket will last much longer. However, if you still decide to ignore my advice ( different situations sometimes, in IKEA, for example, they sell sinks without holes for a faucet) be sure to treat the cut of the countertop! First, all dust must be thoroughly removed from the cut, and then it must be dried well with a hairdryer. Then apply a layer of diluted PVA glue, and after it dries, silicone. If it is possible for it to protrude, then it is better to choose transparent.

It is especially worthwhile to pay attention to the processing of the cut of the countertop when installing the sink. It also needs to be protected as much as possible from water. I must say that this is one of the weakest points of any kitchen, unless, of course, your countertop is made of stainless steel. So, just like when installing the faucet, you need to remove all dust from the cut, then dry it thoroughly with a hairdryer. Then apply a sealant; it is better to choose a silicone construction sealant, which is designed specifically for waterproofing seams. It is a waterproof, non-aging silicone mass. It is used to seal seams, cracks, seal windows and doors. It colors well. Such sealants can be white, gray or transparent. And here the most important rule comes in: DO NOT skimp on the sealant, this directly determines how long the countertop will last you. The inner radius of the seal, which is attached to the sink, should also be treated with silicone. Yes, and don’t forget to degrease the surface of the sink before gluing the seal.

People have several other ways to process sections: apply several layers of paraffin, PVA glue or varnish - until the tabletop stops absorbing more and more layers of the substance you have chosen. Some “craftsmen” cover the cut with self-adhesive film or wide tape. In any case, it’s up to you to decide which method to choose, but I would focus on progress.

If the countertop is swollen, then there is only one way to get rid of this flaw: replace it with a new one under warranty. That is why, if you bought a ready-made kitchen, use a service assembly. Otherwise, the company will disclaim all warranty liability.

Drying installation

To avoid drops of water getting on the chipboard in a cabinet with drying, when purchasing the latter, you need to pay attention to whether a special tray is attached to it. If this is not observed, then it is better to refuse to purchase such drying, since water draining from the plates and falling to the bottom of the cabinet will inevitably cause its damage. In addition, good ventilation is necessary here. This can be achieved either by installing “holey” fronts, or by making a small through hole at the top of the cabinet, which can be given a noble appearance using a socket for wires (these are often used in the manufacture of computer desks).

Kitchen plinth protection

Use a plastic kitchen plinth. This element performs the function decorative design the bottom of the kitchen furniture, closing the gap between the cabinet and the floor. Plastic bases They have a groove for fastening to the supports and a seal that protects against the ingress of water and dirt. The base has a number of advantageous characteristics: light weight, ease of installation, wide range of colors, aesthetic appearance, heights of 100, 120 and 150 mm, and is also completely resistant to moisture.

For more than half a century, laying chipboard on the floor has been a popular choice for finishing flooring. Continuous improvement of technology and technological processes improves the structure and improves the quality of chipboard.

The stove has become durable, moisture-resistant, and environmentally friendly. And if we take into account that the panel is based on wood processing waste, then in terms of price-quality the slab is out of competition with other finishing materials. As a subfloor, a chipboard base will last for decades, extending the life of the floor covering.

Characteristics and use of chipboard

The board is made from waste from sawmilling, carpentry and furniture wood processing; shavings, sawdust, wood chips. The product uses wood-based material from coniferous and hardwood species, and a thermosetting polymer resin based on phenol-formaldehyde is used to bind the wood particles.

The quality of the panel depends on the dosage of resin when applied to wood particles; a lack or excess of binder leads to defective products. During the manufacturing process, the boards are sanded, laminated, laminated and veneered.

These panels can be used to decorate not only floors, but also walls and ceilings.

Based on their use, chipboard products are divided into general and special purpose(made to order).

Construction panels are used to decorate walls and ceilings indoors, and chipboard is laid on the floor as a finishing coating or rough base.

According to the properties that determine the use of chipboard products, the panels belong to the grades P - A and P - B, distinguishable by physical and mechanical indicators.

Properties of chipboard

In terms of their physical and mechanical properties, chipboards belonging to groups P - A and P - B, depending on the components used and additives to the binder resins, differ in density, strength and water resistance to swelling.

Products of grade P - A are used for finishing in residential premises, where the release of phenol and formaldehyde from the slabs, which are harmful to human health, does not exceed the norm.

Panels with increased emission of harmful substances are used in facilities such as auxiliary materials or temporary structures.

Characteristics of chipboard

Based on the properties of chipboard, they are chosen for finishing. various objects. When choosing, it is important to find out everything about the panel manufacturer and look at product certificates, which reflect laboratory tests of samples. The table shows indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of continuously produced products.

At choosing chipboard for use in a house or apartment, we check the product for the presence of phenol and formaldehyde in the resin composition to prevent the use of panels with harmful emissions.

Subfloor made of chipboard on joists

In damp rooms, particle boards quickly become unusable

Usage particle board, as a base for flooring, is economically and technically justified. But when using panels, we take into account the operating conditions of the products. In a room where the humidity is above 60% and the temperature is below 10°C, the slabs swell and collapse.

This also applies to laying panels on the concrete floor of the first floors of multi-storey buildings. And the subfloor is made of chipboard on joists, the right decision for long-term operation of the slabs. A slab base raised above the concrete creates a flat surface on which the coating will last no less than the standard period.

Work order

Chipboard laying scheme

Before laying the logs, we prepare the concrete floor and level the surface concrete screed. We lay the beams on concrete and connect them with jumpers into a rigid frame.

Insulation is laid between the joists and lintels, which together with the chipboard flooring creates thermal and sound insulation of the base. It’s easy to assemble a chipboard subfloor with your own hands, taking into account the step-by-step instructions:

A strong and rigid frame made of beams and lintels, presses tightly against the walls of the room and is not attached to concrete base anchors.

Using a frame made of beams for the base of the floor covering allows you to separate the chipboard flooring from concrete floor and insulate the floor, keeping the room warm.

Chipboard floor on a wooden base

Leveling a chipboard floor is not difficult

Any floor covering is laid on a wooden floor, but floors laid on a reliable and level base can last the required period. This base is made from old restored floor slats or particle board.

Leveling a chipboard floor is not a difficult task and can be done on your own. Let's get started by repairing the old one wooden base. We check joists and floor slats for rot, wormholes, mechanical damage and replace defective ones. We cover the logs with an antiseptic solution, we glue the floor boards together so that there are no gaps left.

We cut through the wooden covering with an electric planer and remove old paint and level the surface. After checking the horizontal surface laser level, prime the base.

Logs for the base frame and floor boards for flooring are used with a humidity of no higher than 12%. Before installation, the materials are treated with an antiseptic.

Laying chipboard on the floor, prepared old flooring from floor laths, is carried out according to a diagram that reflects the estimated number of slabs. The layout of the panels on the floor of the room is made in a checkerboard pattern and provides for a compensation gap of 1.5 cm for the chipboard flooring from the walls of the room.

Before assembling the floor covering, we lay a jute backing under the chipboard to level out the errors of the wooden base and maintain air exchange between the panel flooring and the wooden floor. We begin installing chipboard on the floor by treating the boards with drying oil and drilling holes on the panels for mounting screws, covering the edges of the boards silicone sealant.

The slabs are laid from the far corner

We lay the slabs from the corner of the wall opposite the entrance to the room, compressing the rows of laid out panels with wedges. The slabs of the first row are attached to the wooden floor with a gap from the wall of 1.5 cm.

To ensure that the joints of the slabs do not coincide in the rows, we lay the 2nd row with a shift of half the slab. We cut one slab in half and apply sealant to the ends. We lay half the slabs at the beginning and end of the row. We compress the row with mounting wedges and screw the panels with self-tapping screws to the wooden base.

We lay the rest of the chipboard in a checkerboard pattern. If the design provides for it, cut off the last row of slabs to fit tightly against the wall. After laying the flooring, we close the expansion gap with a plinth and screw it to the walls of the room. How to level the floor with slabs of this material, watch in this video:

If the chipboard coating was intended as a front covering, then we coat the slabs with two layers of wear-resistant varnish and after the varnish has dried, the coating is ready for use. And if it was intended to use the slab flooring as a subfloor, then we lay laminate or linoleum on it.

For long-term operation of the floor covering, the base made of concrete, frame made of beams or floor boards is carried out without deviating from the step-by-step instructions.

Popular and in demand building material. It is actively used in the furniture industry, as well as in construction for wall and floor cladding. This love of builders for this material is due to its low cost and excellent properties. Chipboards are boards made from pressed wood chips, the big disadvantage of which is high moisture absorption. Moisture leads to deformation and further destruction of the chipboard. The solution to this problem will be chipboard processing. Let's take a closer look at how to treat chipboard from moisture.

Chipboard processing is carried out in three directions:

chip handling
processing of the front surface of chipboard
chipboard processing - end protection

Chip handling

Such chipboard processing produced at the time of production. For this purpose, shavings for chipboard manufacturing impregnated with formaldehyde resins. Such resins tightly glue the chips together, preventing moisture from penetrating into the interior of the slab. For the same purposes, urea-melamine resins are used; they glue fibers more tightly and, accordingly, have higher water-repellent properties.

Liquid paraffin can also be produced from moisture at the production stage. By saturating the chips with it, you can protect the slab from moisture penetration.

How to treat chipboard from moisture? One of the main and priority issues in the production of this material.

How to protect chipboard from moisture:

lamination. During the lamination process, a melamine film is applied to the prepared and sanded chipboard surface under the influence of high temperature(200 degrees) and high pressure (25 MPa). Surface polymerization occurs. using lamination helps protect the material from moisture, sun rays, temperature changes and various damages.
Laminating. The laminating process is similar to kelp, but is more gentle. in this case, it occurs at a lower temperature (up to 150 degrees) and lower pressure (up to 7 MPa). The film is applied under pressure to the chipboard surface treated with glue. Laminating is less resistant to moisture than lamination, and also suffers from various mechanical influences. The film may peel, swell and crack.
Surface painting. with the help of paint one of the most available methods protecting it from moisture. Using this method, you can process chipboard yourself at home. It is enough to follow a number of simple rules:

Before painting, it is necessary to clean the chipboard from dirt and dust, sand it

2. Then cover with a layer of heated drying oil

4.Now you can proceed to coloring. The paint is applied in several layers, waiting completely dry each of them.

Pasting chipboard with polymer film or polymer plastic. This kind chipboard processing involves applying a protective layer in the form of a film or polymer to the surface of the material. For such purposes, polyvinyl chloride films are most often used. Before sticking it to the surface, you need to clean it thoroughly, because even the smallest particle of dust can ruin it. appearance material unevenness and roughness. Covering chipboard with film is not a durable method of protection. The film has low protective characteristics and suffers from temperature changes.
Chipboard veneering. This method involves covering the chipboard surface with natural veneer. This method is not particularly popular, since veneer is not resistant to mechanical damage. It will be difficult to maintain veneered chipboard.

Chipboard processing - end protection

Another vulnerable place for moisture penetration into chipboards is the ends. Therefore, their processing should be given special attention. How to cover chipboard?

Processing of chipboard on the sides is done using:

PVA glue. The ends are thoroughly coated with glue, allowed to dry and then another layer is applied.

Silicone.

Construction sealant
Furniture varnish
Liquid paraffin

Used for flooring can be done using heated wood glue mixed with sawdust. This is a simple and inexpensive old method.

We hope the information on how to treat chipboard against deformation and moisture will be useful to you.
Irina Zheleznyak, Staff correspondent for the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"

How useful was the information for you?

Low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, versatility of use have made them a very popular material. Most common applications: furniture production and construction. The main enemy of these slabs is water - the chips increase in volume, the slab swells, warps and crumbles.

Even at the very beginning of production, sawdust and shavings, after drying, are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing, the surface of the boards is laminated, sometimes even varnished.

But protecting the surface does not prevent the penetration of moisture from the ends through which it enters. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the slab. Consequently, the ends must first be saved from liquid penetration during operation. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the slabs will be much longer.

Why are the ends the starting point for destruction? Yes, because the production of slabs is necessary standard sizes, as well as preparing pieces of material of different sizes, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is compromised.

Thus, chipboard protection from moisture is carried out in three directions:

impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
special surface treatment;
end sealing.

The first step towards moisture resistance

Already at the beginning chipboard production a process is carried out designed to protect them from water penetration - the so-called resinization of chips. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - saturation of the fibers with resins and their gluing. For most of the manufactured boards, formaldehyde resins are used, which by definition are a hydrophobic component of the product.

In cases where even greater moisture resistance is required from the boards, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea-melamine resin. It glues the chips together much more firmly, thereby being a stronger barrier to moisture. With the additional introduction of molten paraffin or its emulsion into the chip carpet, the moisture resistance of the chipboard further increases.

Surface treatment of plates

The front and back surfaces of the slab, as the largest contact areas, without any protection, can pass through and absorb, accordingly, the largest amount of liquid. It would be a good idea to cover these surfaces with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in factory conditions, some are also possible at home.

One of the main methods of protection is lamination. With it on sanded chipboard with high blood pressure and at high temperatures the melamine film is laid. The essence of this process is not pressing, but the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the slab, becoming one with it.

There is another method that is performed in the factory - laminating. Pressure and heat are also used here, but more gentle. The already hardened film is pressed against the glue-coated slab. If lamination is a chemical process, then laminating is a mechanical process.

At home, non-laminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Before painting, pre-treat the surface:

dust is carefully swept away and washed off the surface;
for the first time, the plate is coated with hot drying oil;
then this is done with cold drying oil until an outer crust forms;
the top is painted. With any painting method, you must remember that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several other ways to protect yourself from getting wet. For example, a surface that will not be exposed mechanical impact, you can protect it this way: rub it with stearin, then heat it with a hairdryer. Let cool and repeat this a couple more times. Or: one part of bitumen varnish is mixed with five parts of drying oil. Coating is carried out twice.

Processing joints and edges

Water always looks for the lowest place, the depression. And what, if not a recess, are joints on horizontal planes? There are especially many such joints in cabinet furniture, which is made from chipboard. Kitchen furniture in general is like on the front line: there is plenty of water and enough evaporation. The most susceptible to moisture are the sink, cabinet with dryer, countertop, and furniture near and above the stove.

The taps all start to leak at some point. So, the most potentially dangerous place in the sink is where the faucet crashes into the countertop. This is the point of contact between metal and wood. It is possible not only for the faucet to leak, but also for water to condense at the contact point. Therefore, this place is cleaned and dried with a hairdryer. Next, a layer of PVA glue is applied, after which it dries - silicone. You can use construction sealant, this is also a silicone mass, it even prevents leakage window frames sealed.

In the dish cabinet, you should check the presence or absence of a tray: if it is not there, the liquid, flowing to the bottom of the cabinet, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniture where it is possible to get wet, you need to make it a rule: degrease this area and then do not skimp on the sealant.

To seal the seams, it is better to use sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Non-laminated edges of the tabletop are covered with connecting or end strips. They come in metal or plastic. The protection is not so great, so the end of the tabletop should first be treated with silicone. Another method of protection is to apply furniture varnish or PVA glue to the cut area. Proposed construction market self-adhesive films or adhesive tape cannot be called reliable protection.

Sealing chipboard joints on the floor

The difficulty is that on the floor the slabs are constantly exposed to significant physical activity, they “play” relative to each other. For this reason, the putty does not want to stick. There are several folk ways sealing such seams.

The seams are covered with epoxy mixed with sawdust. The sawdust is first finely sifted. The composition sets very quickly, so you should not prepare a large volume of such putty at once. Such protection serves for a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and sealing joints is expensive.

You can replace the epoxy with hot wood glue. You need to mix sawdust in it and go through the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since the hot glue penetrates deep inside. This method also saves from moisture, and the joint stops “playing”. True, it is advisable not to walk on such a floor for several days, since wood glue takes a long time to dry.

This method is much cheaper. And if the floor is covered with linoleum on top, then you can completely forget about damage to the chipboards.