Cellar hatch - several design options. The subtleties of selecting and manufacturing a cellar hatch How to make a wooden cellar hatch yourself

The basement hatch provides access to the underground, which is often found in private construction. If it is made correctly, then you will not only get additional space for storing canned food, vegetables and fruits for the winter, but also disguise the recessed structure itself, for example, lay parquet or laminate on it.

The main advantage of the underground is its ability to preserve temperature regime at the same level throughout the year, regardless of the season, and since such a design is so useful in the household, it means that it is necessary to reveal all the subtleties of equipping an aesthetic entrance to it, which is what we are planning to do now.

Features of making an opening in the floor

There are a number of requirements for hatches that they must meet:

Automatic opening system

  • presentable appearance;
  • harmonious combination with the surrounding space (laminate, tile or linoleum must be selected in accordance with the already laid covering in the room);
  • providing a reliable cover for the opening in the floor;
  • simplicity and high quality of the opening mechanism;
  • use of high-quality fittings (hinges and curtains);
  • despite the dimensions of the door, even if they are quite large, the locking mechanism should function perfectly and not require special effort when opening;
  • for greater ease of use, it is advisable to equip the structure with two handles;
  • if the weight of the lid exceeds 10 kg, it is better to give preference to an opening device with an electric motor or an automatic system;
  • the dimensions of the hatch must fully correspond to the shaft in the floor slab, otherwise you will have to deal with re-equipping the structure, which will entail additional financial and time costs;
  • the design should allow the floor covering (laminate, tile, linoleum) to mask the entrance as much as possible, which means its upper plane should coincide with the floor level;
  • there will be a load on the hidden door, because people will walk on the floor in the house, laminate, wood or tiles will be laid on it, so you need to make a structure that can easily withstand such pressure from above.

Underground entry device

How sophisticated the device for entering the underground will be depends only on the owner of the home - the main thing is that all of the above requirements are met. Also, do not forget that the hatch must protect the living space from dampness, which provokes fungal and mold infections in the house, which can damage wooden cladding (parquet, laminate).

Tools and materials


Manufacturing metal hatch

Before starting the main work on arranging the door in the floor slab, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

  • metal corner;
  • sheet of metal, the thickness of which does not exceed 5 cm;
  • loops;
  • rubber seal;
  • welding machine and grinder;
  • screwdriver and electric drill;
  • fasteners for metal (screws);
  • roulette.

Stages of work execution

To make a door in the floor, you need to start work by assembling a frame for it, which in all respects will fit into the general design. First, using welding machine a frame is created from metal corners rectangular or square shape. Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the floor slab and the welded frame, which is filled with a rubber seal for sealing. The lid itself can be made of wood or metal; here the choice lies entirely with the owner, and he will most likely be guided by the interior of the living area. In a wooden house, it is better to make the front side of the door from the same material.

If the frame for the door of the floor opening will be created from metal corners, the sharp edge on the lid is dulled and adjusted to the dimensions of the frame. Upper part The lid should be slightly wider than the bottom. To ensure that the passage in the floor plane can be tightly closed, the dimensions are calculated relative to the thickness of the corners.


Installation of a wooden hatch

The hatch cover is most often attached to hinges, which facilitates the process of opening it, at the same time, the seal must reliably protect the room from moisture penetration. You can easily find external hinges in every construction supermarket.

Carefully ensure that the hinges fit the dimensions of the hatch.

Please note that some of the fasteners that come with the hinges are fixed to the corners, while others are fixed directly to the lid. For such purposes, it is recommended to choose self-tapping screws.

Modern design

A basement hatch with gas shock absorbers is installed where it is necessary to provide comfortable access to various communications and rooms that are located below the floor level. In this case, the structure is assembled from durable high-quality steel, protected from corrosive processes by powder coating. Assembly is carried out using argon-arc welding.


Improved design

Any floor covering can be used as cladding:

  • ceramic tiles;
  • natural or decorative artificial stone;
  • wooden material;
  • laminate;
  • parquet;
  • linoleum.

A properly designed and neatly lined entrance to the underground will be invisible in the general surroundings, and it does not matter whether you lay laminate or tile. Gas springs will give the inspection hatch a smooth operation and ensure safe operation of the structure, eliminating jerking and jamming from this process.


Design features equipment

Carefully crafted design allows doors to be installed large sizes, while the strength of each hinge and the hatch itself will not be compromised. Moreover, with the help of shock absorbers, you can open the hatch 90 degrees without using additional force, and the hinges will not create resistance. High-quality hinges are installed on spring equipment. You should not save on seals that do not allow odors, moisture and drafts to pass through.

Installation of hatches under tiles and laminate

Structures for tiled cladding are installed and maintained with some special features, so their cost is higher. The same situation is with the option for laminate:

  • such frames are installed horizontally, with peculiar troughs at the top;
  • during installation decorative covering and setting up gas lifts, the floor mechanism cannot be used.

Stages of installation of opening structures in the floor under facing material carried out like this:

  1. Removed lifting mechanism.
  2. Markings are carried out for installation on the ceiling surface. In this case, the hatch is placed in the opening in the floor and both planes are connected using a level.
  3. The top of the frame should be level with the bottom tile.
  4. Before filling, the trough must be removed from the lifts, which are replaced with a flat belt placed under the door.
  5. The trough is filled concrete mortar.
  6. When the concrete reaches 90% strength, the frame is opened. The mortar that remains between the frame and the trough is removed, and the edges of the structure are thoroughly cleaned.
  7. Reconnect the lift according to the attached diagram.
  8. Lay the tiles.
  9. To avoid sticking after processing the seams between the tiles, the gap between the structure and the frame must be carefully cleaned.
  10. A high-quality rubber seal is glued along the perimeter of the frame near the ceiling.



To achieve optimal sound and thermal insulation, as well as not to impair the performance of the structure, hollow spaces between the frame and the ceiling opening should be avoided. To avoid such troubles, cavities are sealed with sealant or elastic polyurethane foam with flexibility. At least once a year the structure is cleaned of dirt.

We really hope that our material helped you build a high-quality and convenient basement hatch with your own hands, which significantly simplified the use of the underground space.

The basement serves not only for storing food, but also acts as utility room, in which certain things are stored. The vast majority of modern basements are planned in such a way that the entrance to it is either invisible or decoratively decorated in accordance with the stylistic design of the door.

Peculiarities

Today there are many options for ready-made cellar hatch designs. various types. Installation can be carried out independently, depending on the complexity of the chosen design and the skills of the buyer.

Hatch doors are divided into three types and classified according to the method of opening.

  1. Swing. The operating principle is similar to conventional front door– on one side the cover is fixed with hinges, and on the opposite side a lock or simple latch is mounted.
  2. Removable. These models are the most budget-friendly and easiest to install. This door is simply placed on top of the hatch opening.
  3. Sliding. This option is more applicable for street cellar. The principle of their operation is to move the door along guides.

The finishing of hatches also has a number of features suitable for laminate, floor tiles or linoleum. If the floors of the house are made of natural wooden materials without additional coatings, the choice of finishing material for the hatch cover is obvious. If there is any complex finishing material, it is better to make a choice in favor of aluminum and steel structures. Their appearance is similar to a shallow rectangular container. Upon completion installation work its frame is filled with concrete mortar, and the completely dried surface is lined with the required flooring finish.

Making and insulating a cellar with a staircase in a private house with your own hands is not at all difficult if you follow the recommendations of specialists. Don’t forget to choose the right curtains for the device, a lifting mechanism, an easy-lift manhole, and multi-lever elements.

A hidden handle and a suitable lifting mechanism, as well as finished decorative elements, must be present.

Drawings and designs

When drawing up a drawing, several factors must be taken into account.

  1. The location of the cellar hatch, which is selected so as not to impede free movement in the room and not to affect surrounding objects.
  2. The most suitable hatch size in accordance with the required parameters. The minimum size for comfortable use is 75 by 75 cm.
  3. The material from which the hatch is made. It must meet high strength, but at the same time have minimal weight.
  4. Materials that will ensure tightness and thermal insulation of this structure.

Floor hatch covers for cellars are often equipped with additional systems smooth ride. If there are small children or animals in the house, fixing devices are provided. To avoid easy access to the cellar, the hatch is equipped with an electric drive.

Design principles for additional functions

Smooth operation is designed to make the hatch easier to operate. Its lid is equipped with shock absorbers, which ensures smooth closing to prevent injury. When installing such a mechanism, the cover must be open. There are several ways to equip the lid with a smooth operation.

  • The most popular is spring, which uses spring hinges, like a car hood. It is suitable for lightweight hatch structures made of metal or wood. The door fixation is positioned so that it opens perpendicular to the floor.
  • And also apply gas shock absorbers. Used for hatches with heavy doors.

As a rule, such hatches are equipped with folding, hidden or removable handles. The advantages of such options are preventing children from entering the basement. In case of self-production, it is better to use simple inexpensive options, for which the use of metal products is not provided.

Electric drive structures. The electric drive is installed in several ways. For installation itself simple option you will need:

  • electric motor;
  • duralumin pipes;
  • steel sheets;
  • welding machine;
  • grinder with cutting wheels;
  • cable;
  • current source;
  • three position switch.

For full operation of the mechanism, the hatch cover must open less than 90 degrees. It is driven by a rotation system, opening or closing the lid using a rod. Control is carried out by remote control.

The retractable system is more complex, but allows you to make the hatch cover almost invisible. Its installation will require:

  • steel sheets 5 mm thick;
  • two electric motors;
  • metal rollers;
  • three-position switch;
  • current source;
  • cable.

A hatch for floor tiles requires the development of a drawing that shows the parameters:

  • width and length of the hatch box;
  • frame and opening thickness;
  • loop location

Installation of such a hatch requires a level base, so a leveling screed is poured before its installation. To do this, you need to perform several operations:

  • Determine the level of the floor covering, taking into account the thickness of the tiles and adhesive layer of approximately 12 mm.
  • Prepare the solution and set up the beacons.
  • Bead the opening under future hatch, leaving about 100 mm around its perimeter for support for the lid.
  • After the solution has hardened, preliminary fitting of the hatch is carried out.
  • Tiling should begin from a corner located in a visible place. The finishing of the opening occurs after installing the frame for the hatch cover.

To design the ends, you must comply next order actions:

  • install the frame, leveling it, guided by the building level;
  • fill all existing gaps between the frame and the screed with the solution;
  • after the mortar has completely hardened, the tiles are laid in the area around the opening, with the necessary adjustments and trimming of the tiles, for this purpose beacons are installed, then the cement mortar is poured and leveled;
  • slopes are also tiled, up to completely dry adhesive layer, it is recommended to fix the tiles with tape, having previously installed demarcating crosses.

The procedure for installing and lining the manhole cover

The hatch is installed on hinges using any of the above mechanisms. Then the finishing of the fixed lid begins. To do this, you can use floor tiles or other finishing material. The main requirement is that its appearance is in harmony with the rest of the room design.

IN wooden houses hatches are usually not finished, but simply covered with linoleum or other material. For example, you can use laminate.

How to do it?

To achieve visual effect in the absence of a cellar hatch, its covering must fully correspond to the covering of the entire floor. That is, if it is wood, then the hatch cover should be made of the same wood. Or if it is parquet, then the hatch should look the same.

Standard cellar hatch. The hatch cover is made with a slight reduction in size so that it fits completely into the opening of the basement passage. The resulting gaps should not exceed 5 mm. First of all, to wooden flooring four timber supports are nailed down, which will serve as a support for the lid. Floorboard blanks are made 80 cm long. Then a square of 79 by 79 cm is cut out of plywood. A gap of 1 cm is placed between the hatch and the floor, this helps prevent deformation from moisture and temperature changes.

Lathing inside The hatch is made with short slats or slats 79 cm long. Parts made of wood must be coated with at least one layer of drying oil. This is done to protect them from exposure to moisture and fungus.

The height of the hatch must correspond to the rough and final coating and consist of three layers:

  1. a plywood sheet on which a lathing of slats is stuffed;
  2. insulation is placed in the space between the slats;
  3. onto the slats, fixing the insulation, stuffed finishing layer from the board;

It is better to nail the top layer parallel to the floorboard. This design has light weight, so it is suitable for mounting on regular hinges on the basement side with a gas closer. A plastic box has its advantages, but is more expensive.

The thickness of this entire structure must correspond to the thickness of the floorboard.

A metal structure should be stronger than a wooden one. Making a lid for it yourself is problematic. To make it from steel sheet The base is cut out with a thickness of at least 3 mm. Along the perimeter of the base, on the inside, corners are welded using a welding machine, onto which the stiffeners are attached. There is insulation between them.

The entire total area of ​​the lid is divided into 4 equal parts. When working with metal, it is necessary to clean all seams. The width of the insulation must fully correspond to the width of the corner. The insulation layer is fixed on top with a sheet of steel or tin using self-tapping screws. To make the entrance frame, the corner is cut into fragments according to the size of the hatch opening. Next, the corners are welded to each other and fixed to the concrete with anchors; one of the sides of the frame will act as a support for the hatch. A seal is attached to its protrusion to retain heat and protect it from excessive friction. The cover itself is connected to the entrance frame using reinforced hinges with a gas closer. Floor tiles ideal for finishing the kitchen.

There are two main design options for entering the basement - a door and a hatch. Each of them is suitable for a specific room. If we are talking about a basement, the entrance to which is located inside the house, most owners prefer a hatch.

Making it yourself is easy and quite quick.

Before we begin installing it, let's decide for ourselves whether a basement is really needed in the house. Will he be able to solve the tasks assigned to him and will he not be a heavy burden for us?

A basement is a room whose floor is below ground level. construction site more than half the height of its walls. Otherwise it will be the ground floor.

What affects the structure of the basement

  1. Hydrogeological conditions;
  2. Soil type. For example, excavation work on rocky soil will be very expensive, since it is impossible to do without special equipment;
  3. Level groundwater. When this indicator exceeds the depth of the foundation, you will have to purchase expensive waterproofing.

Advantages

  1. Creates additional usable area, which can be used for storing things, canning and food. Often a workshop or room for engineering communications, wine cellar and others.
  2. Having arranged a basement under the main house, you no longer need to think about building an additional utility room on the territory, thereby keeping such expensive square meters plot.
  3. The basement allows you to always have a warm and dry floor on the first floor.
  4. The owners receive additional comfort, since they do not need to run to the annex for groceries in bad weather; they can simply go downstairs and take everything they need.

Flaws

The only thing that can influence the decision to install a basement is its price. It can reach a quarter of all costs for private house, which is a lot. This is due to expensive land work, for which you will have to hire special equipment.

You can do everything yourself, but it will require a lot of effort and time. In addition, careful arrangement of the room will be required, which includes waterproofing, interior decoration and placement of the necessary shelves.

Basement entrance cover

Prepare materials and tools:

  • sheet steel - thickness at least 3-5 mm, otherwise it may collapse;
  • metal corner;
  • tin;
  • welding machine;
  • dense rubber;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • screwdriver;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • roulette
  1. The lid must be made strictly to the size of the shaft so that it fits exactly end-to-end when closing. To do this, use a rubber seal, which will protect the basement from air entering it, which can lead to an increase in temperature.
  2. You can close it at the top floor covering used in the room, or leave it as is, after painting it with paint to protect it from rust. Weld a corner around the perimeter to the bottom of the steel plate, providing additional rigidity to the structure.

Tip: Leave room for free movement so that the lid fits tightly into place.

  1. Lay insulation on the inside of the lid. For this, use polystyrene foam, which you cut so that it fits flush against the inside of the corner.
  2. Cover the lid with a sheet of tin, bend it at the sides and secure it with self-tapping screws.
  3. Attach the basement hatch to the external hinges. There are also electric version mechanism for closing and opening the lid.

Electric drive

Unlike the previous option, when anyone can open the hatch, this design turns the basement into a safe. Unwanted visitors will not be able to get there no matter what they want. The design depends on how the do-it-yourself basement hatch drawings are drawn up, the skill of the contractor and the financial capabilities of the customer.

Regular option

Prepare:

  • electric motor;
  • duralumin pipes;
  • sheet steel;
  • grinder with a circle for cutting metal;
  • welding machine;
  • electrical cable;
  • three-position toggle switch;
  • current source.

This option is considered the simplest, therefore it is used not for special protection of the cellar, but to simplify interaction with the hatch. Install the mechanism directly on the hinged lid.

Tip: never install the hatch at 90°, leave room for free reverse movement.

The operation of the design is quite simple - you send a signal to the electric motor from the remote control, it begins to rotate and set the mechanism in motion. The lid rises upward thanks to the rod to an angle of 80°, where it is stopped automatically.

You can close the hatch by pressing the second toggle switch on the remote control, which turns on the reverse rotation of the electric motor shaft and returns the rod to its place. You can hide the moving elements behind light duralumin pipes or steel boxes. Even a beginner can assemble the mechanism quite quickly.

Almost every owner of his own home sets up a cellar in his home - a place where he can store canned goods, products from the garden, and seasonal items. In a properly equipped cellar, due to its proximity to the ground, it always preserves low temperature and a certain humidity. The entrance to the cellar, located on the floor, often leads from the kitchen or hallway of the house.

You need to know how to properly make an entrance hatch into the “bins” in order to avoid heat loss and not disturb the interior of the floor of the room. It is also important to consider a system of stoppers or shock absorbers that will prevent spontaneous closing of the hatch at the moment when a person descends into the cellar.

If the construction of a house is in full swing and the location of the hatch to the basement or cellar is still at the development stage, it is worth considering the following nuances.

  1. The entrance should be located in convenient location, not next to the wall. This is necessary so that the hatch opens without any interference.
  2. If you plan to make the entrance to the cellar in the kitchen, it is important to place the entrance where there will be no furniture, for example, dining table. It is important that the raised lid does not touch kitchen set or other things.
  3. The design of the hatch cover must be reinforced and withstand the weight of a person, if, for example, the entrance to the cellar will be from the corridor.
  4. Dimensions of the entrance to the cellar. They must be “tailored” to the dimensions of the owners. This is necessary in order to easily go down to the basement and get out the necessary things and products.

A hatch made of wood is made if it is laid on the floor wooden board. This will visually hide the entrance to the underground and lighten the weight of the entire structure.

To make a wooden hatch, the following tools are required.

  1. Saw.
  2. Hammer.
  3. Screwdriver.
  4. Brush.

You also need to prepare the necessary materials.

  1. Boards for the top flooring.
  2. Laths for sheathing.
  3. Beams for supports
  4. Plywood.
  5. Drying oil.
  6. Nails.
  7. Screws.
  8. Chalk or pencil.
  9. Insulation.
  10. Hinges and gas shock absorber.
  11. Pen.

If the hole into the cellar measures 80 by 80 cm, then the lid should be made a little smaller so that it fits freely to the floor. The gaps between the floor and the hatch cover should be no more than 4-5 mm.


The height of the hatch must match the dimensions of the finishing and rough coating. For this purpose, the hatch is made multi-layered. The first layer is plywood, onto which slats are laid in the form of sheathing. Insulation (second layer) is placed between these slats to prevent drafts. A board (finishing layer) is attached to the top of the slats.

It is advisable to select a material that matches the width and thickness of the board laid on the floor. It is also a good idea to nail the top boards of the hatch parallel to the floorboard so that the cover does not stand out too much on the floor.

The design of such an insulated wooden hatch is not too heavy; it can be equipped with ordinary hinges attached to the basement side. But experts recommend equipping the hatch with gas closers, which simplify lifting the structure.

A special handle is attached to the front surface of the hatch, which is placed on the floor and does not protrude.

Video - Hatch to a cellar made of wood with closers

Metal structures are more reliable and stronger than wooden hatches. But making such a lid is much more difficult.

To make a metal hatch you will need the following tools.

  1. Angle grinder with cutting metal disk.
  2. Welding machine.
  3. Screwdriver.
  4. Roulette.

You should also stock up on materials.

  1. Sheet steel, thickness 3 mm and 1 mm.
  2. Steel corner 3-4 mm.
  3. Loops.
  4. Gas closer.
  5. Anchors
  6. Polystyrene foam or other insulation material.
  7. Rubber gaskets-sealers.
  8. Primer.

To make the lid you need cut a sheet of steel to size, for example, 80 by 80 cm. Experts recommend using material at least 3 mm thick.

A corner is welded onto the steel around the perimeter from the inside. It is also recommended to weld stiffeners from the same corner, between which to place insulation. It turns out that the area of ​​the hatch cover is divided into 4 sectors. All welding work It is advisable to carry out it carefully, it is advisable to clean the seams.

The insulation should not be wider than the corner. Thin sheet steel or tin is overlapped over the insulating material, is bent using blows with a mallet and secured to the corners with self-tapping screws.

The hatch is ready.

The next stage is the installation of the cellar entrance frame. For this steel angle is cut into fragments corresponding to the size of the hatch opening. The corners are welded between each other and attached to the concrete using anchors. One of the sides of the frame is a support for the metal hatch. On the protruding edge of the frame seal is attached, which will reduce heat loss and protect the hatch from friction and impacts on the edges of the frame.

The lid is attached to the metal frame using special reinforced loops that can support the weight of the structure. To make the hatch easy to open, it is recommended to equip it with gas closers. It is recommended to treat all metal steel parts of the hatch structure with drying oil to avoid corrosion.

If the hatch is installed during the construction of the house, then you can hide the entrance to the underground by finishing floor.

Video – Metal hatch laminate floor

Tile - perfect material for the kitchen. Many housewives prefer this type of floor finishing, especially since it is not too difficult to decorate a basement hatch in the same style as the floor covering.

This requires the following materials:

  • steel corner;
  • steel sheet 3 mm minimum;
  • reinforcement with a cross section of 3-4 mm;
  • solution;
  • tile.

The tools needed are the same as when making a regular metal hatch.

Unlike a regular metal hatch, the tile cover is made slightly differently. A blank corresponding to the size of the hatch is cut out of sheet steel. This will be the bottom. A corner is welded along the perimeter of the workpiece, forming the sides. Reinforcement is welded inside the sides to form cells.

The frame for the entrance to the cellar is welded from steel corners and recessed into concrete to the width of the lid. The structure is connected using reinforced hinges. For safety, you can equip the lid with a gas shock absorber.

Once the structure is ready, you can begin decorating it. The mortar on which the tiles will be laid is mixed. The solution is poured into the manhole cover, hiding the reinforcing mesh. Tiles are laid on top.

It is important to lay the material on the hatch so that its seams match the tiles laid on the floor.

Video - DIY cellar hatch (metal)

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Openly located communications and control instruments in the bathroom reduce the aesthetics of the room, so they try to hide them in boxes or closed niches, trimmed with the same tiles as the room. At the same time, access to hidden mechanisms is provided by installing secret hatches in the partitions.

The first examples of such devices were made of plastic and did not include ceramic finishing, so the hatches, hiding the highways, stood out on the tiled surface. After improvement, viewing devices began to be produced from reinforced plastic or metal, which increased their rigidity and made possible finishing hatches with tiles.


Aluminum hatch AluKlik Revizor

Modern plumbing hatches - “invisible”, offered by manufacturers are high-quality products various designs and sizes, in which special hidden hinges and locks of several types are used, for example, aluminum hatches for AluKlik Revizor tiles or steel Charcon inspection devices. Accordingly, the price of such devices, depending on the dimensions and technical solutions used, varies from two to several tens of thousands of rubles, and the installation cost can be even higher.

Make your own hatch, the quality of which is not inferior to those available for sale finished products, difficult. However, if it is necessary to install a viewing device irregular shape or optimize the traditional design, having the skills to perform plumbing and installation work and knowing the technology, it is still possible to make a hatch under the tiles with your own hands.

To make an inspection hatch for a bathroom yourself, consider the following details and technologies:

  • requirements for the viewing device;
  • hatch designs;
  • production of components;
  • hatch assembly - “invisible”.

Requirements for the viewing device

An “invisible” inspection hatch in a bathroom, regardless of design, must meet the following requirements:

  • functionality - the dimensions and format of the hatch must ensure the possibility of servicing equipment hidden behind the partition;
  • strength and rigidity - for long-term trouble-free operation and safety of the ceramics laid on it;
  • tightness - in order to protect hidden communications and devices from open contact with water in the bathroom;
  • heat and sound insulation of the door - to prevent the formation of condensation on the outer surface of the door and reduce noise from the movement of water (in the sewer riser);
  • aesthetics - concealment in a closed position and arrangement of internal surfaces.

Invisible inspection hatch provides quick access to utilities

Failure to meet even one of the listed requirements will lead to a loss of aesthetics of the bathroom cladding and problems with technical condition hidden equipment.

All inspection hatches, regardless of type, consist of a frame frame, a flap (door) on special hinges and locking device. To ensure a tight interface between the door and the frame, a sealing gasket made of rubber or caoutchouc is installed, and the concealment of the hatch on the lining of the walls or floor of the bathroom is achieved by finishing the front side of the door with ceramic tiles.

Manufacturers of “invisible” hatches offer three types of inspection devices:

  • hinged - hatches with one or two doors, which, when opened manually, move the entire area away from the wall or floor, and then swing open on hinges;
  • sliding - inspection windows with a manually retractable door that then moves parallel to the wall;
  • push action - structures that open and close when you press the sash, under which there is a lock with a spring-type mechanism.

Floor hatches are made of aluminum or steel of a certain thickness

Of the listed types of secret hatches installed in the bathroom, for making it yourself, it is more advisable to choose a hinged type of device, suitable for installation in the wall and floor, with affordable prices for components and relative simplicity self-installation.

Manufacturing of components

The material used to make the “invisible” hatch depends on the size of the viewing device and the capabilities of the performer. When the dimensions of the inspection window do not exceed the size of one or two tiles, the design of such a product can be simplified. If the dimensions of the hatch, and, consequently, its weight after finishing with tiles, are significant, it is unreasonable to save on materials.

Let's consider two options for manufacturing a viewing device:

  • lightweight devices for small openings;
  • fully equipped hatches.

Lightweight, small devices

An inspection hatch for arranging a small opening can be made without hinges. The role of the sash in this case will be played by ceramic tiles, on back side of which, depending on the size, you need to stick 4-6 fixing magnets around the perimeter. If the concealing partition in the bathroom is made of plasterboard, then a steel frame of such dimensions is attached to the opening in it from the inside with self-tapping screws so that its edges protrude from the landing niche and serve as a counter part of the magnetic fastening.

Proper installation of an inspection hatch will solve the problem of access to hidden drainage systems

The sharp edges of the steel frame in the opening are processed with a file for operational safety.


The dimensions of the fixing magnets are selected (sharpened) so that the front surface of the tile – the plug – is at the same level with the wall cladding. This hatch is opened using a removable suction cup handle. Such a device can be used on the bathroom floor only in places without load on the “leaf”, for example, in the floor of a built-in closet.

If the partition is made of brick, then to fix the tiles - doors with magnets around the perimeter of the end of the opening, use self-tapping screws to fasten pieces of steel angle cut to size.

A standard inspection hatch can be made in two ways: from scrap materials, or using special components, copying the manufacturers’ technology. The choice of manufacturing method depends on the dimensions and degree of responsibility of the device, which are determined by the operating features of each specific “invisible” hatch. Let's look at both of these technologies.

Making an inspection hatch from scrap materials

The frame box is made of steel angle or profile rectangular section 60x40 or 50x30 mm in size, which are connected by electric welding followed by grinding the weld seams with a grinder. Then from the specified profile it is necessary to make the frame of the hatch flap, which should fit into the box with a gap of 2 mm on the sides.

The inspection hatches include a hinged door with a locking mechanism

A steel rod is welded along the inner perimeter of the box square section so that the door in the closed position lies flush with the front plane of the box. Then the sash is fixed in the box on furniture hinges using metal self-tapping screws, having previously cut out round seating sockets for them in the door frame. The number of hinges depends on their quality and the weight of the sash.

Instead of furniture hinges you can use a more advanced mechanism for opening doors without handles (Push to open), or a push system. The price of a set of this fittings is much higher, but it is justified by the design advantages.

A sheet of OSB (oriented strand board), the dimensions of which should cover the hatch frame, is attached to the manufactured frame of the sash using self-tapping screws.


Before installation, OSB must be treated with a hydrophobic compound to protect it from moisture.

To secure the closed door in the box, a system of furniture magnets or a ready-made lock of one of the types offered by manufacturers is used.

Manufacturing an inspection hatch from ready-made components

Unlike devices made using improvised means, when assembling these hatches only special fittings. As a rule, when self-production of such a device, drawings or a working sample of the product are used.

The frame and frame of the hatch flap are manufactured using the technology described above. Then an aluminum sheet 3-4 mm thick, the size of which should cover the frame, is attached to the frame of the sash using self-tapping screws or rivets.

Based on the operating characteristics and location of the hatch, the type of hinges and locking device is selected. Assembly of the product and adjustment of components is carried out according to the instructions for the fittings, after which steel elements structures are coated with two layers of anti-corrosion paint.

Conclusion

Independent production of a wall or floor inspection hatch that is not inferior in quality to finished products is complex work that requires professional skills. But making an inspection window of a simplified design with your own hands, capable of satisfying the needs of monitoring hidden equipment in the bathroom, is quite realistic and economically justifiable if you know the manufacturing technologies.



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