How to make your own septic tank to drain wastewater from a bathhouse? How to make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels using the example of plastic containers Septic tank from ready-made plastic and iron Eurocubes

When installing a local sewer system at a dacha, the owner of the site has to take into account the difficulty of using sewage disposal equipment to pump out wastewater from cesspools. A septic tank for a bathhouse, installed with your own hands on a summer cottage, allows you to do without calling the employees of special vehicles.

A traditional Russian bathhouse is often built even without special facilities for wastewater treatment. Soapy water flows into a hole under the floor of the wash compartment through the gaps between the boards. But in modern bathhouses they make a concrete floor and often combine a bathroom, a bathhouse, a summer kitchen and other rooms that require proper drainage of wastewater in one building. Under these conditions, a water purification and filtration system—a septic tank—is needed.

If there is no toilet in the complex of outbuildings, then a pit for recycling the water produced by the bathhouse at the dacha ( the simplest septic tank), may consist of a single chamber of sufficient volume to accommodate the liquid entering there during hygiene procedures. When combining a bathroom and a bathhouse, you will have to build 2-3 chambers:

the first - for the accumulation of feces;
the following are for filtering liquid waste.

In what cases is a regular drainage pit suitable?

A drainage pit is a deep well into which relatively clean wastewater from the bathhouse is drained. When designing this type of septic tank, you need to take into account the groundwater level on the site. Suitable for sandy and other light soils with deep subsoil aquifers. simplest option drainage pit from a steel barrel with a capacity of at least 200 liters. Holes are made in the bottom and walls of the container to allow liquid to penetrate into the soil.

In an area with high standing hot water, drainage pits need to be deepened to 3-3.5 m and the walls must be impermeable (filled with concrete, etc.). In this case, filtration of wastewater will occur below the groundwater level. Due to the fact that bath procedures are not carried out too often, and the water contains mainly soap residues; wastewater treatment occurs in the crushed stone layer and the soil itself.

The main criterion for choosing a multi-chamber septic tank or drainage pit is the nature of the waste:

when recycling water only from the bathhouse, you can build a drainage pit;
If wastewater from the toilet flows into the septic tank, a drainage pit cannot be built.

How to correctly calculate the volume of a septic tank?

To calculate the size of septic tank tanks, you need to determine the approximate daily volume of wastewater. For a bathhouse they are about 100 liters for a family of 2-3 people. For normal operation of the container (without overfilling), the calculated volume is increased by 3 times and taken as 300 l (0.3 m³).

It is believed that filtration of the drain and its complete removal from the tank are possible only after 14 days. The required volume of the septic tank chamber must be calculated taking into account this factor and multiplying the daily flow by 14. The calculated cubic capacity of the chamber will be 4.2 m³.

In practice, the capacity may be smaller: the bath is most often taken 1-2 times a week. If the septic tank is planned only to drain wastewater from the bathhouse, then the calculated value can be reduced by approximately half.

Ready-made solutions (factory septic tanks)

Choosing household systems water treatment industrial production, the easiest way is to focus on the number of family members: in technical documentation This figure is also indicated. For a family of 2-3 people, compact models (for example, Triton mini) are suitable.

The peak load that such a device can withstand is about 500 liters. Comparing the capabilities of the septic tank with the calculated needs makes this choice justified: compact models are inexpensive and completely ready for installation. They consist of 2 chambers, which ensures high quality cleaning from soap and surfactants, hair and other contaminants. The purification level is at least 75%, and the water entering the soil no longer causes harm environment. The principle of operation of the device is mechanical settling and filtration of waste.

For large volumes of wastewater and connection to the toilet system, it is better to choose equipment with the capabilities provided for this. Larger volumes and fecal wastewater will require the installation of septic tanks Unilos, Topas, etc. These models are supplemented with filters and settling chambers.

All models of domestic sewage systems are made of lightweight and durable plastics, are durable and do not require complex maintenance. The decomposition of even fecal waste occurs due to natural processes and pumping out accumulated water during correct installation and no operation required.

How to make a septic tank for a bathhouse yourself?

If you plan to collect only bath water, then a simple septic tank is easy to make yourself. Used for wall cladding different materials, which hold water inside, directing it into the deep layers of the soil. When using such structures, waterlogging of adjacent areas does not occur. There is no pumping of water from a homemade septic tank.

Option 1: septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings

You can make a septic tank for a bathhouse with your own hands from ready-made concrete rings large diameter. Having calculated the required volume, buy 2-4 rings of the required size. A pit is dug under the reinforced concrete products in such a way that the drain pipe from the bathhouse passes below the freezing level of the soil and with a slope towards the septic tank.

After this, take into account the height of the rings (1-2 pieces) that will be installed in the settling chamber and the thickness of the cushion under the structure (at least 20 cm). The diameter of the pit should be 20-30 cm larger than the size of the rings.

The second chamber - the filtration chamber - is dug taking into account the fact that the overflow pipe connecting both pits should be located just below the lower edge of the drain (from the bathhouse). Other calculations are approximately the same as the previous ones, but it is advisable to increase the pillow to 50 cm.

The construction of a septic tank is carried out in stages:

Dig 2 pits at a distance of 1 m from each other. The depth must correspond to the calculations made.
A bed of crushed stone and ASG is placed in the settling chamber, compacted and leveled. Place 1-2 rings there. The joint of the rings is sealed. The bottom is filled with a layer of concrete at least 10-15 cm thick.
The filtration chamber is installed on a thicker pad to ensure better drainage and drainage of wastewater into the deep layers of the soil. After installing the rings, at least another 15 cm of crushed stone filtration layer is poured inside. The joint of the rings is not sealed.
Pipes are laid from the bathhouse and between the chambers, observing the slopes from the building to the septic tank and from the first chamber to the second.
After completing the installation of the chambers, make a ceiling ceiling from boards, and then concrete it over the reinforcement with a layer of at least 15 cm. During concreting, it is possible to provide for the installation of pipes for possible cleaning (pumping) from the bottom to the surface in both chambers. The thickness of these communications is 10 cm, for easy connection of special vehicle hoses. In addition, a ventilation pipe must be installed in the ceiling of the filtration chamber. It should not be submerged in water and is located directly in the ceiling. The ventilation rises no more than 30 cm above the soil.
Cover the structure with soil. Plants with a shallow root system can be planted on top of the septic tank.

A two-chamber system with a sump can be used on any soil and is suitable for connecting drains from the toilet, but a different volume calculation will be required, taking into account more liquids.

Option 2: cesspool filter

A septic tank that will collect only bath waste can be made single-chamber. After calculating the volume, they dig a pit taking into account the required depth drain pipe(below freezing level). A layer of crushed stone about 50 cm thick is laid at the bottom of the pit and compacted well. The walls can be reinforced with brick or stone masonry, concrete, reinforced concrete products (rings, tightening, slabs, etc.). After this, pour another 15-20 cm of crushed stone filtration layer onto the bottom.

Such a pit should not be completely covered: gradually the spaces between the particles of crushed stone will become clogged with soap residues and the pit will have to be cleaned using special equipment. The drainage from the bathhouse is quite clean, so pumping will be required only 10-15 years after the start of operation of the pit.

The well head must be raised to a height of about 30 cm above the ground so that melt water and precipitation do not enter the container. Cover the mouth of the pit with a secure hatch.

Option 3: septic tank for a bathhouse from a barrel

A large barrel of fuel and lubricants (200 l) can serve as a reliable sewerage device if the family is small and the bath drains do not exceed 70-80 l. The pit is dug so that the outlet of the drain pipe is 20-25 cm below the top edge of the barrel.

To make a septic tank from a barrel, a leaky piece of metal or a broken water container is suitable. The bottom and lid must be removed, the cylindrical part must be lowered into the pit onto a prepared cushion of crushed stone. Pour 10-15 cm of crushed stone inside the container. Install a drain, make a ceiling from a sheet of steel or boards, and fill the septic tank with soil around the perimeter. The plastic barrel needs to be strengthened in the ground with reinforcement, passing it through the walls.

As a chamber, you can use not only a barrel, but also European containers for transporting liquid cargo (cubes with lids). They have different volumes. Several rows of holes are made in the walls in the lower part and an entrance for the pipe is cut.

Option 4: septic tank for a bathhouse made from car tires

Large-diameter tires (from KAMAZ and larger) are used to strengthen the walls of the pit using the technology described for concrete rings. Rubber products are simply laid on top of each other, the joints are not sealed.

From tires you can make a full-fledged septic tank with several chambers or just a filtration pit.

What is better - buy a ready-made septic tank or make it yourself?

The difference between purchasing a factory-made septic tank for a bathhouse and building it yourself is only the price. Constructions made from concrete rings can also be expensive, so other materials are most often used for wall decoration. But with proper design and calculations, even self-built sewage treatment plants cope with the task of treating wastewater no worse than industrially made plastic containers.

The decision about which septic tank to prefer is made based on considerations of the feasibility of the costs of purchasing equipment or digging a hole on your own.

If there is a separate bathhouse on a suburban area, then you must take care of the removal and disposal of the resulting wastewater. Regular cesspool is not entirely suitable for these purposes, especially if such a structure also has a toilet. Only septic tanks for bathhouses can provide high-quality treatment of liquid waste.

Choosing a septic tank for a bath

When purchasing a stand-alone sewer system for bath and laundry complexes, showers or saunas, the following factors must be taken into account:

The volume of wastewater sent to the treatment device. The septic tank must have sufficient capacity to process all incoming liquid waste. Mini septic tanks with a small capacity are well suited for these purposes.
The presence or absence of a toilet in the bathhouse. If there is no toilet, then only gray wastewater will flow from the bathhouse. Then you can install a simple treatment device, after which the wastewater will be sent for additional soil treatment. Sometimes a septic tank is installed for a bathhouse with a toilet; such equipment can perform deep biological treatment. Topas brand equipment is suitable for these purposes.
Distance from the main residential building. If the bathhouse is located near the home, then you can install a single septic tank for the bathhouse and the house.
Soil quality and level groundwater. The possibility of creating a filter field depends on these indicators. If the site is located on clay soil or quicksand, then it may be cheaper to purchase and install a deep cleaning septic tank.

In most cases, to dispose of wastewater from a bathhouse, it is enough to purchase a simple two-chamber septic tank without pumping. Thanks to a multi-level filtration system, high-quality cleaning of liquid waste is carried out.

Such devices are energy independent and very easy to maintain. The price of a septic tank for a bathhouse is usually below average. The best option is to buy a septic tank with a solid cast plastic container. Such products have sufficient strength and durability.

How to buy a septic tank for a bathhouse

To buy a septic tank for a bathhouse that performs high-quality wastewater treatment, it is better to contact specialists who have been selling and installing such equipment for a long time. There are many nuances that only professionals can know about. For example, it is imperative to conduct soil studies to find out the possibility of creating a filtration field or well for additional purification.

The Septic Topas Plus company provides the opportunity to profitably buy a durable and reliable cleaning device. Call or leave a request on the website to receive detailed information about available models, terms of purchase, delivery and installation. Our specialist will come to the site free of charge to inspect and sign the contract, after which the installation will be completed within one day and a guarantee will be provided.

A bathhouse is an integral attribute of a comfortable country life, therefore purchasing summer cottage plot, many begin to build it almost before the construction of the main house and other outbuildings. However, its use involves the generation of a sufficiently large amount of wastewater. And, first of all, it is necessary to decide where and how they will be allocated. The optimal solution to this problem is to make a septic tank for a bathhouse with your own hands.

Someone will say: “Why extra hassle and the costs, if you can dig a trench “the old fashioned way” through which the water from the bathhouse will simply go into the ground?” But these effluents, generated with each bath, can become a real threat to the environmental and sanitary safety of the site. So, sooner or later, you will still have to think about how to organize the drainage of sewage water from the bathhouse in a more civilized way.

When purchasing or manufacturing a septic tank for a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the nature of the wastewater that it will have to process. As a rule, the bulk of waste from this facility is “gray water”, consisting of water with soap suds, surfactants and fatty acid derivatives. They also contain small amounts of hair and skin particles.

If the bathhouse is equipped with a toilet, then the nature of the waste will be somewhat different. Sewage water of this type is usually called “black”, and their treatment and disposal is more responsible. In this case, it is necessary to construct a reliable treatment plant with several sealed settling chambers.

A septic tank for a bath can be single-chamber or double-chamber. A single-chamber septic tank is the simplest treatment facility, consisting of a container without a bottom and operating on the principle of a filter well. In this case, the function of the reservoir can be performed various devices type without a bottom, as well as plastic containers with holes made in them, reinforced concrete rings, etc., and the filter is a layer of crushed stone at the bottom.

Please note that when constructing such a septic tank on your own site, you must take into account the location of groundwater in the place where he will be located. If their level is high enough, the cleaning chamber must have sufficient volume to large number wastewater simultaneously generated when using the bathhouse could fit entirely inside the tank.

A septic tank for a bathhouse with a toilet should ideally be at least two-chamber. This option is also worth using when you plan to use the bathhouse quite often. You can purchase it ready-made or build it yourself using reinforced concrete well rings, concrete mortar or plastic containers (Eurocubes) and the same tires.

For manufacturing it is developed taking into account other parameters and conditions. Read about this in our separate article.

And about in what cases it may be needed and how to choose it, read in another material.

The first camera in this case is used as a filter mechanical cleaning. A mixture of crushed stone and gravel of small fractions is poured into it, purifying “gray waste” from larger impurities. The second chamber serves as a settling tank in which water that passes through a mechanical filter settles. Then the water moves into the drainage well, from which it is gradually absorbed into the soil. This option is good for those who need a septic tank for a bath without pumping. Similar, in which the first chamber will be used for mechanical cleaning, and the second will be a drainage well with a bottom filter.

Important: During use, the gravel and crushed stone backfill will become contaminated, which will lead to a decrease in the speed and quality of filtration, so it must be updated periodically.

Homemade septic tanks - design options

The most simple solution The problem of draining wastewater from a bathhouse is the purchase of a ready-made industrial septic tank. However, in some cases, it is more rational and practical to make a homemade septic tank for a bathhouse, which will cope with the task of cleaning wastewater no less efficiently and effectively.

Let's consider several options for such structures, starting with the simplest and least expensive:

Filter cesspool

Device Features:

— A pit is dug, at the bottom of which a backfill consisting of a mixture of gravel, sand and pebbles is poured in a layer of 40-50 cm.

— The walls are strengthened with brick or rubble stone.

Pros:

- Easy to manufacture.

— Minimum construction costs and sufficient high efficiency cleaning wastewater from the bathhouse during its periodic use.

Cons:

— Not suitable for baths equipped with a toilet.

— Requires frequent cleaning and periodic replacement of the drainage layer.

Septic tank made from car tires

Device Features:

— Tires undergo preliminary preparation - their sides are cut off.

— Pits for the septic tank are dug at a distance of 2-3 m from the bathhouse. Their diameter should correspond to the diameter of the tires used with an overlap of 15 cm. Depth - depending on the expected water flow (recommended depth is about 2-3 meters).

— The bottom of the first pit is sealed with clay or concrete, and the bottom of the second pit is filled with a mixture of sand and gravel for filtration.

— Tires are placed in the pit, secured at the joints using wire staples or plastic clamps.

— Holes are cut in the tires for supplying a pipeline with waste and for organizing an overflow between the two chambers of the septic tank.

— A sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is connected to the first tank, which is laid below the freezing level of the soil.

— An overflow pipe leads from the first tank to the second.

— The pit is filled with soil and clay.

— A sheet of iron or a thick board is placed on top, covered with soil.

Pros:

— A septic tank for a bathhouse made from tires requires minimal installation costs and delivery of components.

— Possibility of manufacturing a septic tank of optimal volume, through the use of tires of a suitable diameter.

— Ease of use.

Cons:

— Insufficient tightness of the structure.

— Not very high quality of wastewater treatment.

Note: It is possible to make a treatment facility for a bathhouse from tires, which has only one chamber with a filter bottom, provided that the bathhouse will have no toilet.

Septic tank from eurocubes

Device Features:

— Eurocubes (plastic containers square shape with a volume of about a thousand liters) are prepared for further use. To do this, tees are installed in their necks, and holes are made for connecting and outlet pipes.

Important: Due to the fragility and low strength of the Eurocubes used to create a homemade two-chamber septic tank, the bottom and walls of the pit must be concreted. To prevent the containers from floating, they can additionally be secured with special clamps to the concrete screed.

— Before filling the septic tank, the tanks must be filled with water, and the gap between them must be concrete mortar to give the structure additional strength. To insulate the septic tank, it must be covered with foam on top and then covered with earth. The ventilation pipes must remain on the surface.

Ready-made models

If you don’t have time to worry about how to make a septic tank for a bathhouse with your own hands, it makes sense to purchase practical and functional devices at an affordable price. Popular models:

In addition, there are a large number of deep cleaning stations such as “Topas”, “Unilos”, etc., the price of which will be much higher. However, optimal solution for a bath you can call it simple installations with mechanical filters and settling tanks, which, if necessary, can be equipped with a soil purification system.

Video

In this section you can watch a video on the topic of our article, which demonstrates the construction of a homemade version of a septic tank for a bathhouse made from a barrel.

Do-it-yourself septic tank for a bath without pumping
These days, at the dacha, or personal plot there is a bathhouse. This is a health-improving and beneficial miracle for the body that has come down to us from the depths of centuries and is the inheritance of our ancestors. No other bathhouse or sauna can compare with the Russian bathhouse.
The Russian bathhouse has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages, not in the bathhouse itself, of course, but in its operation, more precisely in the use of sewage systems. Often in old bathhouses there was simply no sewerage system and the water went into the cracks between the boards in the floor and then into the soil.
Of course, the whole thing then exuded moisture and dampness for a long time. It was not uncommon for bathhouse owners to have to dismantle the floor in the steam room and subsequently dry the boards, or simply keep the door open until the next time to ventilate and dry out. In the bathhouse anyway high humidity, and if there is dampness coming from under the floor, the structure will quickly become unusable.
Also, during the operation of bathhouses without sewerage, the owners change them once every 10 years, for example. lower crown log house Some bathhouse attendants use a trick and make a lower crown out of hard rocks wood such as oak.
In order for the bathhouse to serve the owners for a long time, it is necessary to install a sewer system. These days there is a huge selection of sewer systems, septic tanks of all designs and sizes for houses and baths. But these septic tanks sometimes cost a lot of money and are beyond the means of a simple summer resident. What to do to the common man and how to protect the bathhouse from dampness and moisture? As always, you need to look for a solution and think with your head. So the author thought about it and came to the decision to make a sewer system with my own hands and save money in the family budget.
He took the principle of operation of a conventional septic tank as the idea. The septic tank is designed as follows - two tanks connected to each other in the upper part, when the first tank is filled, it begins to flow into another tank which performs the function of drainage. The author took the information and drawings from the Internet, thought it out and completed it to his liking. So, what does the author need to fulfill his idea?
Materials: two plastic barrels, cement mortar, boards, gravel, polystyrene foam, sewer pipes.
Tools: shovel, hammer, axe, hacksaw.
And so, first of all, the author looked at the diagrams for further construction.
Then he dug a hole for a homemade septic tank, took the sewer pipe out of the bathhouse and connected it to the reservoir. He made a lid on top.
In the upper part the author made such formwork. (Figure 5)
Next, the author made a cover for his sewer (Fig. 7, 8)
I also foresaw the onset of cold weather in winter by making this type of foam insulation. (Figure 9)
That's all and covered the top with a lid.
The septic tank for the country bathhouse is ready, now the author’s bathhouse will last for many years and will delight the family and guests with its crimson heat.

Local sewerage with its own treatment plant will allow you not to break away from civilization in settlements that do not have basic infrastructure. If you make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels as a cleaning object, the cost of improvement will be minimal. But for a successful result you need technological subtleties. Isn't it true?

Anyone who wants to have an independent sewer system own plot we offer useful information, thoroughly covering all aspects of its construction. The practical application of the information we provide is a guarantee of long service life and flawless operation of the system.

This interesting article presented to your attention introduces various structural types of homemade septic tanks. It describes in detail the technology for constructing a sewage treatment plant from waste barrels. Construction methods are illustrated with simplified graphics, photos and video applications.

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of products, the design and construction of homemade septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The hand-held device option is in demand for the following reasons:

the ability to reduce costs to a minimum by purchasing components, as they say, randomly - where it is cheaper, and secondly, using existing means at hand;
installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.

Let's say you first equip a toilet. In the future, you connect a bathhouse, a kitchen sink, even a garage sink to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the “tie-in” points are prepared in advance - pipe bends brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a time.

The construction of a septic tank from barrels will allow organizing an autonomous sewage system with the disposal of neutralized and clarified wastewater at minimal cost.

Nobody better than the master who built the septic tank does not know the weak points of the treatment system and its capabilities. Although you should not allow shortcomings, only he will take them into account during operation.

It is no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, “stressing” only the advantages. An independent builder will know that he can let him down.

Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the area around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary expenditure of effort and money, as well as “accidents” caused by poor throughput of the purification system.

A septic tank made from barrels operates on the principle of multi-section settling tanks, which, as a result of overflow and settling, ensure the separation of wastewater into water and sludge. After leaving the septic tank, clarified and purified up to 65% water is discharged into the ground, and sludge accumulates at the bottom of the sump until it is pumped out by sewer trucks.

You will learn the intricacies of constructing a septic tank that operates without emitting odor and does not require pumping from our other website.

Varieties of designs and schemes

A homemade septic tank constructed from barrels consists of several containers (chambers) installed in a given order. They are sequentially connected to each other by pipes so that the sections are filled in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras at different height levels.

The operating principle of a multi-chamber septic tank is similar to the operating principle. The entry and exit of pipes into the chambers is made in such a way that water begins to flow into the next container before the water level rises to the inlet pipe.

Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of contaminants settle at the bottom of the tank, while smaller and lighter particles continue their path through the system.

For the free flow of wastewater to the septic tank and from chamber to chamber, the sewer line is arranged with a slope. The slope must be observed in each area, including in the sections between sections of the septic tank

In order for the methane generated during wastewater treatment to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of the last section of a homemade septic tank.

In addition, at the drainage of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, toilets, shower stalls, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of an “elbow” - so that bad smell did not poison existence.

The operating principle of a septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of the wastewater. The more sections the sewage mass passes through, the higher the final degree of purification.

The most common is the three-section septic tank design, used for processing gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify contaminated water coming from a bathhouse or kitchen, using one or two barrel sections will be sufficient.

Purified and clarified wastewater from the septic tank flows into the ground treatment system, for example, it is disposed of through a filtration field

From the last barrel, access is made to the filtration field, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains.

The drainage pipeline is laid in specially selected trenches, lined with geotexile, on top of which pipes are laid and a sand-gravel mixture is filled.

The function of ground post-treatment of gray wastewater supplied by baths, washing machines, kitchen drains, etc., you can safely trust an absorption well built in the outermost barrel of the sewer system. In this case, the bottom of the container is cut out, and it itself is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.

If the amount of wastewater does not exceed 5–8 m³/day, then a third section without a bottom, filled with a 1 m layer of sand and gravel, can be used as a ground treatment system. Absorption (filter) wells are constructed using this method.

As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly labor-intensive work is associated with the development of a pit for sections of a septic tank and trenches for a sewer pipeline.

The calculation of wastewater volume is based on the wastewater disposal rate per person in l/day. A single-chamber septic tank is built with a waste volume of up to 1 m³/day, a two-chamber septic tank is built for 5 – 8 m³/day

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Homemade treatment structures can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made; these are septic tanks:

from plastic barrels;
from metal containers (welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);

A metal tank is more rigid. In addition, it is easier to secure it from floating. But the main drawback iron barrels– poor ability to resist corrosion.

A septic tank made of concrete rings requires the use of special equipment during construction sewer wells. It is difficult to ensure the proper degree of tightness for a cleaning station made from tires if there is no experience working with such materials.

The use of plastic barrels in the construction of a septic tank allows you to do without lifting equipment and without welding work

A homemade septic tank made from plastic barrels has more advantages:

light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
corrosion resistance. This point is important not only from the point of view of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
the optimal method of construction, because Electric welding is not required for installation of the system;
the tightness of the containers, due to which there is no need to carry out work on waterproofing the sewerage structure;
manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to process with cutting tools.

If necessary, minor cutting flaws can be easily corrected using cold welding tools.

Plastic barrels are the easiest to use, most technologically advanced source material for constructing a homemade septic tank.

Basic requirements for placement

In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank from regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03-85. SNiP - “ Building Codes and Rules" is a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is the specified one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewerage networks and treatment facilities.

Sanitary requirements are regulated by SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norms.

Anyway, stick with it following requirements to the distances from the septic tank to the following objects:

house foundation – 4-5 meters;
well, borehole – 30-50 m;
lake, pond – 30 m;
bushes, trees – 2-4 m;
road – 5 m.

Before installing an autonomous septic tank or its location, it is necessary to discuss with the owners of neighboring plots. Although the regulations stipulate a distance from their fence to the septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be satisfied with the proximity of the sewer structure.

When deepening the bottom of the structure below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain construction permits from the local administration.

The greater the volume of wastewater processed in the septic tank, the further it should be removed from the foundation

But even if permission is not required, take into account the characteristics of the site. It makes no sense to install sewerage systems with ground treatment systems in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.

The lack of ability to pass water will be indicated by stagnation of flood waters during snow melting and periods of heavy precipitation. This means that the section is dominated by clay soils that do not allow water to pass through or into them.

On clayey soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. They are made in plastic containers or groups of barrels. The storage tanks only accumulate wastewater for pumping by sewage trucks, and do not process it.

A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Water-saturated soils will also prevent the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of wastewater.

If the section of the site is composed of clayey soils that are unable to absorb purified water, the idea of building a septic tank will have to be abandoned

Instead of a storage tank, a biological treatment station can be installed. It purifies wastewater by 98%, which allows it to be discharged onto the terrain.

Features and design standards

Having solid experience in constructing such systems, all the required calculations can be made “by eye”. But compilation detailed plan and developing a project, at least in sketch form, can be of great benefit.

Firstly, having determined the installation locations of the cameras and the laying of the highway, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time is of the essence, then before you start work, it is quite possible that you can get some of what you need for free.

And legally - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider trash. It has been proven in practice more than once that you can even assemble a car by spending funds comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.

Secondly, careful execution of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions and also disciplines. In addition, a well-executed scale drawing can reveal flaws in the original design and save you from unnecessary expenses. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the superfluous.

When drawing up your plan, consider the following:

even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to disturb the ecology of the site;
the septic tank sections should be located so that there is at least 5 m between them and the foundation - a distance that prevents soil erosion in the event of emergency flooding of the septic tank and leaks;
the route of sewer pipes must be designed so that it is, if possible, without turns that contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
external line autonomous sewerage must be provided with an inspection well for inspection and cleaning.
For every 25 m of the sewer main, an additional inspection well must be constructed.

If the site is not pleasing with its dimensions, and the choice of location is a done deal, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.

To the level of seasonal soil freezing, the septic tank and sewer pipeline must be insulated so that ice plugs do not form in it

If you plan to build buildings in the future, the functioning of which will require the use of water (bathhouse, sink, any kind of handicraft production), provide places for the “integration” of water drainage from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bathhouse can be taken directly to the last chamber of the septic tank, since in waste water there will be no large particles of dirt.

If you do not intend to use the services of a vacuum cleaner, do not make the first chamber too bulky so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, provide either the possibility of easy dismantling of the camera or access to its contents for quick cleaning.

For maintenance, control of operation and periodic removal of sludge, the septic tank must be equipped with a hatch. It must rise above ground level by at least 18 cm

If, in accordance with the clayey type of soil, only the installation of a storage tank is possible on the site, then the design should be carried out taking into account the unobstructed passage of sewage disposal equipment.

Preparing building materials for work

The main materials needed to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands include:

pipes for the main with a diameter of 110 mm;
fittings, corners, etc., in quantities appropriate to your project.
the barrels themselves, intended for septic tank chambers. Select their sizes based on the approximate water consumption in the house, based on direct observations.

It is advisable to use barrels with thick enough walls so that the joining of pipes to them is as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose its tightness due to mechanical stress.

To connect polymer parts, it is more convenient to use adhesives that must be compatible with the materials of barrels and pipes

Work out in advance the issue related to the freezing of cameras when negative temperatures. You can use the old village method - place wooden sticks in containers.

At the very least, the ice expanding during freezing will compress the tree, which “took” part of the impact. They will also help plastic bottles filled with sand.

But in any case, thermal insulation of barrels will not be unnecessary - take care of purchasing available materials in the required quantity.

You will also need auxiliary materials. You need to buy a sealant to seal the seams. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and even cover it with some kind of protective layer If it doesn’t work, no coating will stick to silicone.

The best option would be to use car body sealant - it has good adhesion (ability to stick), mechanical strength, and can be coated with paint, mastic, etc. The best characteristics has a polyurethane sealant, but it is quite expensive;

It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, and reinforcement for pouring the bases for the barrels. Sand should not be presented with any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, no big deal, the main thing is that it does not include lumps of loam and organic pollution.

Any steel rods are suitable as reinforcement. There is no need to cook the reinforcing mesh - just fasten the rods with wire.

If, when developing a pit, soil with biological inclusions, lenses and layers was extracted clay soil, then to backfill a pit with an installed septic tank you will need quarry or river sand

You will need crushed stone, gravel, granulated slag or similar materials to fill the bottom of the pit (pit) before filling with cement;

A plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not filled, it can be “pushed” to the surface groundwater. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded rods - something to “anchor” the barrel.

It is appropriate to use commercially available threaded rods - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which iron plates can be secured with two nuts, which need to be “sunk” in cement.

Construction of a pit with a concrete slab

How you decide to make the main pit - manually or using an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that after installing the barrel in place it is convenient to compact the earth, poured into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. You can also provide for thermal insulation of the container - slag wool, polystyrene foam - in general, whatever will be more accessible.

Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the pit, you need to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the hole and see if the depth is sufficient for the device concrete base. If everything is in order, you can start filling the bottom of the hole with cement. It is absolutely not necessary to make formwork, but it is advisable to fill it with sand and compact the bottom before doing this.

If there are doubts about the strength of the walls of the pit, then before pouring they must be strengthened with a board. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it has dried, you can lay the reinforcement and fill it “cleanly” - leveling the horizon. Don't forget about the embedded parts for anchoring the barrels!

Mix cement with sand - 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. It is very convenient to use an electric concrete mixer, but purchasing it only for this job (if there are no plans to build something else) does not seem advisable. It is enough to choose a suitable trough that is convenient for shoveling.

Mix sand and cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature entry, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the required consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can also work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before filling the foundation itself, wet the backfill with water to compact it.

In order to anchor the lung plastic septic tank metal brackets must be placed in the concrete slab being poured

To level the fill, use a tool similar to a mop with a flat bottom. Pressing the sole to the surface, level the solution with light translational movements. This way, by the way, you will achieve better filling of the future site with mortar.

To prevent the mortar from cracking when drying, especially in hot weather, cover the poured area with a thick cloth after the cement has “set” and water it with water. A tarpaulin or similar is better suited for this purpose. synthetic fabric– what is important here is not wetting the surface of the site, but slowing down the evaporation process.

Start installing the pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely secured. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water for stability.

All these points are important to take into account due to the fact that the final stage of assembly will be the treatment of the joints of pipes and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the immobility of the structure.

Before applying the sealant, treat the places of its contact with the plastic with coarse sandpaper (No. 80 -100) - for better adhesion and durability of the seam. By the way, you can also install triangular gussets on the same sealant for rigidity, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. While the sealant is drying, wrap the gussets with wire, masking tape, etc. – so that they don’t “slip.”

Schematic diagram preparing a pit and anchoring a factory-made septic tank can be used in constructing a sewerage facility with your own hands (+)

After testing the system for water permeability, proceed to the final filling of trenches and holes. Compact the soil gradually, filling the soil in layers. You can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap for rigidity.

In those places where filled pipes and holes may be hit by equipment, before filling the surface layer of soil, make a protective flooring, at least from boards.

Assembly and connection of the structure

So, all materials are ready. The next step is cutting holes in the barrels for the pipes. There is no point in describing this procedure. The only thing I can advise is that you don’t immediately make holes to size - let the pipes be inserted with force, and if necessary, trim the excess.

Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise when filling and compacting trenches and holes, the integrity of the seams can be compromised. Pipes can be fixed using all available means - wire, scraps of boards, bricks, whatever.

Before digging trenches and pits, it would be useful to assemble the entire structure, without fixing the parts, and place everything on the ground. The pipes can simply be placed on the ground next to the barrels. This will help you make more accurate markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and pits with poles and twine, you can begin digging.

Visual step-by-step guide

The process of constructing a septic tank with overflow from used barrels will be presented by a visual step-by-step instruction:

Image gallery

Before constructing a homemade septic tank, a pit is developed, the dimensions of which will ensure convenience when performing the work

In the lids of both barrels planned for installing a septic tank with an absorption well, we cut a hole for the flange of the sewer pipe

We attach flanges to the holes cut in the barrels. If necessary, we modify the cuts

We are still finalizing the barrel intended for the installation of an absorption well - in its upper part we cut out two holes for the insertion of drainage pipes

In the upper barrel, which will be used as a receiving chamber, we cut out only one hole. It should be directly opposite what is cut into the lid

We install the first barrel on the compacted and leveled bottom of the pit. We connect the flange to the hole cut in the lid

To install a second barrel in front of the already installed first one, make a recess

We fill the depression with gravel, which will serve as a ground purification of clarified water coming out of the septic tank.

Step 1: Development of a pit for installation of barrels

Step 2: Forming Holes in the Barrels

Step 3: Fitting the flange to the holes in the barrels

Step 4: Cutting the Holes in the Bottom Barrel

Step 5: Side Hole in Top Barrel

Step 6: Installing the receiving chamber in the pit