Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall. How to make a drywall wall with your own hands without any hassle? Drywall sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics

Using drywall for re-planning movements is an excellent choice in favor of quality and ease of installation. And GKL sheets cost less than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of drywall partitions is easy to do on your own, if you choose high-quality materials and tools that facilitate the process.

Before planning and destroying old floors, it is necessary to obtain permission from the house management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment scheme may affect the safety of the whole house. If redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

The main material for mounting a plasterboard partition is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is being erected for purely decorative purposes, there will be no door in it, and shelves and other heavy parts are not provided on the sides, then the thickness of the product may be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is selected not “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and the frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders identify a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. Such material is used in rooms with normal humidity indicators. If the partition is made in the bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture-resistant drywall (it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

The next most important material is the profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used, as they are not sufficiently reliable. Most often, reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles are used. They come in different types and thicknesses - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

dowel;
self-tapping screws with a press washer;
self-tapping screws for metal;
sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
acrylic primer;
putty;
serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools necessary for the construction of the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for the job

When installing a partition from a gypsum board, construction tools are used.

It is better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for mounting a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes and additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing a metal profile.

How to install a drywall partition

Before you install a drywall partition, you need to make sure that you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Do-it-yourself partition installation takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is marking. Never skip it, especially if you are installing a similar design for the first time.

Marking

It is necessary to start the installation of drywall partitions with markings. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a building corner.

The line must be perfectly even, because subsequently a profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with particular accuracy, otherwise the design will turn out to be a curve, which will lead to its premature wear and the impossibility of mounting the door.

Frame installation

After the markup has been applied and made sure of its evenness, guide profiles are installed. First, they put the part on the floor and fix it with dowels, bypassing the place for the door.

Advice! Holes for fasteners are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markup, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers plugs-dowels into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. After that, they make the final reconciliation of the markup, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, the rack profile is fixed along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal in terms of level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal rail. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then the screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, they proceed to the installation of the ceiling guide.

Advice! It is necessary to screw in the screws at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Fastening to the ceiling occurs in the same way as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, comparing the floor markings with the ceiling. Height measurements are taken for the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut with scissors.

The vertical profile must be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden bar. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed in the end.

If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are fastened approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings, calculate how many vertical racks will be required. They are fastened 300-600 mm apart. The required number of racks are cut out of the metal profile, then they are installed with their ends inside the guides. The process is controlled by the building level. It is necessary to fasten the profiles with self-tapping screws with larger caps.

electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, electrical wiring is made inside. You can do this after the installation of drywall partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. In the profiles, you need to make holes through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

The big stage is the sheathing of the frame according to the size of the GKL with sheets. It is necessary to fasten drywall with prominent self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fixing plasterboard). Fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheets are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, then they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of a plasterboard partition. To make a bevel, you can use a planer with a beveled knife.

Advice! If elements are used in the partition to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut with crowns of the desired diameter. Through them, wires are output after the complete installation of the structure.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Empty space must not be left, otherwise it will lead to the appearance of an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Installing the door frame

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

A door jamb with hinges is installed according to the level, using larger self-tapping screws.
The heads of the self-tapping screws are deepened into the wooden racks of the box.
The door is suspended (it is desirable to choose the lightest canvas possible).

If problems arise due to insufficiently even installation of profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Seam sealing

The final stage of the installation of partitions from GKL is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of self-tapping screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with applied glue, then the installation will be faster:

After all the procedures, they proceed to the stage of finishing the finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is necessary so that the decorative materials lie evenly and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy look will nullify all the efforts of the builder.

The finish is completed with the final layer of putty, after which it is treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

After cleaning the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait for complete drying. Now you can stick wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a drywall partition with your own hands is not only a simple, but also an exciting process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip the steps.

From the author: Welcome, dear reader of our repair and construction portal. Since you have landed on this particular page of the site, then most likely you are thinking about redevelopment of the apartment or maybe you want to divide the room into several parts.

Or maybe you have a need to build an arch or build a wall of plasterboard (plasterboard sheets). It is also possible that you need to form separate premises in a new building, into which you were recently lucky enough to move. One way or another, you are looking for the answer to the question of how to make a drywall wall. Well. Here you will receive it.

Why drywall?

Before we figure out how to do it yourself, I propose to consider one important question. Very briefly. Why GKL? Why is he so good? I have heard the opinion that this material is not the best to build a wall. Basically, this position is held by people, so to speak, of the “old school”, who perceive drywall sheets as a purely finishing material.

But this is not entirely true. Yes, GKL is also used for decoration, but it will also fit very well as a material for building walls. Moreover, in many cases this is the only correct solution. So, why should you choose GKL? Now we will briefly name the main characteristics of this material so that you can cast aside all doubts:

strength/durability. Walls built from plasterboard are no worse than those made from brickwork. You won't be swinging a sledgehammer around your house or throwing weights at the wall afterward, will you?
limitless scope for creativity. Absolutely everything can be created from this material: you can design openings of various sizes, ledges and niches, recreate other structurally expressed elements;
health safety. The material is environmentally friendly and does not cause allergic reactions of the body;
versatility/practicality. Plasterboard walls can be erected anywhere - in any part of an apartment or house, even in rooms with high humidity. To do this, there is a special moisture-resistant drywall, which you can buy at a regular hardware store;
availability. GKL does not apply to expensive building materials and has become an integral part of almost any repair;
ease of installation work. Yes, you have to try, but if you know the sequence of actions and have the necessary tools, then even a person who has no experience in repair will cope with the work.

I think we have given quite weighty arguments in favor of drywall sheets. In a word, GKL is an excellent material for zoning the space of a residential (and any other) room.

What you need to work

In this section of our article, we will find out what else, besides the GCR, we need to do the job. First of all, we need to build a frame from profiles, which will serve as the "skeleton" of our wall or wall.

As a rule, two types of profiles are used to build a wall:

D - small profile. It is needed in order to form a plane on which it will be subsequently;
W - large profile. With it, a frame is built.

In addition, for each of the main types presented, there are:

C - support profile;
U - guide profile. In fact, this is a variation of the U-shaped profile.

As a result, we get the following combinations:

CD - 60x27mm - this is the main element of the "skeleton";
UD - 28×27mm - guide for CD;
CW - 50×50/50×75/50×100mm - rack profile, the purpose of which is to form a frame;
UW - 50x40/75x40/100x40mm - guide for CW;
UA - 50x50/50x75/50x100mm - in fact, the same CW, only additionally reinforced and more durable.

To build a wall up to 10 cm - you should use only CW and UW. If the wall should be more “serious”, if it is planned to lay communications in it, then you should resort to using CD and UD. On each side of the wall, two guides should be mounted, running parallel at the distance from each other that you previously outlined.

To fix the profile in the frame, we need a special suspension with a universal connector. In the people, such a connector is called a "crab". But sometimes you can do without it.

Self-tapping screws should be used to fasten the frame elements. We will also need self-tapping screws for metal (3.5 × 35 mm, equipped with a countersunk head) to attach the gypsum board to the installed frame. We will also need dowels (of course, with self-tapping screws) to fix our frame to an existing wall.

Now about the drywall sheets themselves. Sheets should be selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, and please note that there must be a wide chamfer on the sides. Let us remind you once again that if you are planning installation in rooms with special operating conditions (in the bathroom, in the kitchen), then be sure (!) Choose moisture-resistant drywall. It is elementary to distinguish it from the usual one: its top coating is green, while ordinary plasterboard is covered with gray cardboard.

So - let's conditionally draw a line under everything that we said above in this section. We will need:

actually, GKL;
profiles CD / UA and UD or only CW and UW, if the thickness of the wall being erected does not exceed 10 cm;
profile AU, which, however, can be replaced with a wooden beam;
fastenings (dowels / self-tapping screws);
tape for sealing;
metal corner;
mineral wool to fill the empty space.

Here we have listed the materials necessary for the work. Now here is a list of tools:

building level;
roulette;
rope;
plumb;
fishing line;
rule;
screwdriver / reverse drill;
scissors for cutting metal;
perforator;
planer for GKL (you will need it when you need to make a chamfer);
durable knife with replaceable blades for cutting cardboard.

We have decided on building materials and tools. Now something should be said about what the floor and main wall should be like before starting the installation work.

In short, the floor with the wall should be, perhaps, without finishing. So, they should be ready. That is, the floor must be leveled with screed, OSB or in another way, only without flooring. The walls should already be plastered, but without wallpaper.

Now that we have the necessary knowledge, tools and building materials, we proceed to consider the installation process.

Frame assembly process

To begin with, let's look at one common example: mounting the "skeleton" of a wall from UW and CW profiles. The first thing to do is mark the wall on the floor. When marking, you should focus not on one wall, but on two, running in parallel. In this case, the indicators should be averaged. Thus, you will have a chance to avoid a critical curvature.

If you plan to screw the drywall to all the walls, that is, to perform alignment with the help of plasterboard, then you should first achieve right angles after completing the sheathing of the main walls, and then proceed with the construction of the wall.

When you outline the first line, according to which our wall will be located, it should be noted that it is the guide profile that will be equal to it, and not the wall as such. Therefore, the thickness of the drywall sheet, and all the finishes that will subsequently be applied to it, should be added to the mark.

Only after you have drawn a line on the floor can it be transferred to the walls / ceiling. This is where a laser level comes in handy. If you do not have this device in your “arsenal”, you can rent it at a hardware store, where there is a tool rental service. Well, or borrow from a friend-comrade.

Now we turn to the installation of profiles. Keep in mind that those profiles that are attached to the main working surface (floor / wall / ceiling) must (!) Be mounted with a sealing tape. Otherwise, things won't work here.

First you need to fix the rails on the ceiling and floor (UW). They should be mounted with dowels and self-tapping screws: firstly, every 0.5 m, and secondly, along the edges, where the support posts (CW) will be fixed. But racks are mounted not only along the edges of the UW rails. They should also be erected in those places where, for example, there will be a window, a passage or some other opening corresponding to a daring design intent.

It will be more convenient for you to install the profiles first at the bottom, then thread them into the upper guide and mount them. Only mount it exclusively vertically, otherwise the wall will be crooked, and this is not included in our plans. The front side of the profile should be facing the inside of the opening. The racks are attached to the rails with the help of "fleas" - self-tapping screws, which we mentioned in the list of necessary tools.

In addition to these strangely named self-tapping screws, we also mentioned the AU profile, an alternative to which can be wooden beams. So, it's time for AU. With the help of this profile (or bars), we reinforce our opening around the perimeter.

Now we need to mount the CW support profiles. The first must be mounted at a distance of 550 mm from the main wall. The rest - with a step of 600 mm. In this case, it is imperative to check the verticality. To mark the upper border of the passage or the upper and lower borders of the window opening, we use the already familiar UW profiles. In this case, a piece of the profile must be at least 30 cm longer than the width of the opening.

The profiles have side bends. So, on the front side of these bends, you need to put marks 15 cm from each edge. And between these marks, the distance should be equal to the width of our opening.

The side parts of the profiles must be cut strictly at 45°. You should start from the edge - to the mark - and to the very foundation. After the incisions are made, the edges of this profile must be bent to get a kind of U-shape.

We put the resulting U-shaped profile on the side posts of our opening. Then, accordingly, we adjust its position in height. After the profile is put in its position, it will have to be fixed with self-tapping screws. On the horizontal part of our profile, we have formed the so-called "ears", which also need to be fixed. This is how we create the perimeter of the door/window opening.

If you succeeded, then congratulations! This completes the installation of the frame. Now it's time to move on to the installation of direct sheathing, that is, to the installation of drywall sheets.

Installation of plasterboard on the installed frame

The size of drywall sheets that can be found in hardware stores is standard:

1.2×2 m;
1.2×2.5 m;
1.2×3 m.

In residential buildings, the ceilings are usually somewhat higher than 2 or 2.5 m. According to the building standard, the ceiling height in apartments is at least 2.75 m. Accordingly, one whole sheet may not be enough for us. Therefore, you may have to add an additional strip. It could be a cut or even a few cuts. These will definitely appear in the process of work.

Initially, we should mount the sheet, which will be located close to the edge (that is, to the main wall). A chamfer must be separated from it, so a strip with a width of ± 4 cm must be cut along the entire length.

For cutting GCR, a regular knife with interchangeable blades is suitable, like the one shown in the photo below:

At the same time, it is impossible to cut the GKL to the canopy! It must be placed on a flat and hard surface, after which - mark with a pencil or marker the lines along which the incision will be made. With a knife, we cut through the top layer, and then we should move the drywall sheet to the edge of our support strictly along the notch line, and then easily and carefully break off the excess.

Now we need to make a chamfer on the cut edge of the sheet. Now you may be wondering: “why make a bevel if we just cut it off?” - the fact is that a special oblique chamfer is to be made in order to provide a technological (delatation) gap. What kind of gap is this and what is its purpose - we will not consider in detail now. We will limit ourselves only to the fact that we note the following: this gap will help remove excess load from the drywall sheet after installation and application of all finishing materials (primer / putty / wallpaper / paint).

This is where we need a planer for GKL. By the way, such a chamfer should be made not only along the length of the sheet adjacent to the wall, but also on that strip of a piece of plasterboard, due to which the height will be reached (we remember that the height of one sheet may not be enough if the ceiling in the room is higher ). However, this strip for adding height can be mounted both at the top and at the bottom - as it will be more convenient for you.

To fix the GKL to the frame, we use self-tapping screws (3.5 × 35 mm). Initially, the sheet should be fixed from the edges, and then along the middle line. Self-tapping screws should be placed in increments of ± 15 cm. But (!) Not more than 25 cm. The caps of the fasteners should not be deeply “drowned” in the drywall sheet, but they should not stick out either.

By the way, GKL should be fixed at a height of about 10 mm from the floor surface. This distance is called the delatation gap. We have already mentioned this. So, remember: drywall should not fit snugly against the wall or the floor. And yes, there should also be a small distance between the sheets. Subsequently, it will be puttied, but more on that later.

After you install the first sheet, you should measure the distance from the edge of this sheet to the ceiling (well, or the floor, because the sheet can be started both from the floor and from the ceiling). According to the measurements, cut out the missing fragment, make a chamfer on it with a planer - and install it in place. We will mount those sheets that are not adjacent to the wall already without a chamfer, so that the planer can be put aside for the time being.

That is, in places where the sheets are adjacent to the walls / floor / ceiling and between these adjacent sheets, this impromptu chamfer must be present, and as for the rest of the sheets, there should only be a technological (delatation) gap between them, but already without a chamfer . We will embroider these joints when we start puttying / primer. But now it is better not to occupy your bright head with this.

Drywall sheets must be installed exclusively in a checkerboard pattern. In other words: if you mounted the first sheet from the floor, and then got the missing fragment to the ceiling, then the next one - on the contrary - mount it from the ceiling and get the missing piece of plasterboard to the floor. In this way, sheathe the frame on one side. Now let's talk about how to lay the wire in order to install a socket / switch or carry out other important communications.

Laying communications

Communications should be laid after the sheathing of the wall frame on one side is completed. In fact, there is nothing super complicated here. But if you have not dealt with electricity before, it is better to resort to the services of an electrician.

But preparing a frame for laying wires is definitely in your power. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes in the rack profiles with a diameter of approximately 3.5 cm. To avoid damage to the wires, you should bend the edges of this hole to one side. And don't forget to use corrugated pipe. This is your own safety.

Soundproofing installation

Mineral wool (mineral wool) is usually used as a soundproofing material. Without soundproofing, the wall will be hollow inside, so any sound from the next room will reach the next one without encountering any barriers. When mounting the wall, you should also use a filler.

For these purposes, rolled wool is suitable for us. The one that is sold in bales can also, of course, be suitable, but it will not be very convenient to work with it. If the width of the roll is 1.2 m, then it must be cut in half lengthwise. With a width of 0.6 m, it is not necessary to cut along.

The material should be tightly laid between the rack profiles. At the same time, gaps are absolutely useless to us. It is not necessary to fix it with glue or something else. If the action takes place where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall (which is highly undesirable), then horizontal wooden lintels can be mounted. In addition, - in case of risk of moisture ingress - the interior of the partition / wall must be ventilated.

Completion of installation work / how to finish plasterboard walls

We sheathe the other side of the wall in the same way as the first, and then we should make the ends. The joints of the sheets during finishing must be glued using a sickle. Then, with the help of the starting putty, these recesses are completely leveled and compared with a common plane. Finishing putty helps to nullify those places where the screws were screwed. The corners of the door / window opening or other structurally expressed elements (say, the corners of niches or decorative ledges) should be additionally reinforced with a metal corner.

Do walls need to be primed before wallpapering? Purely technically - drywall is perfectly even, so it can be safely pasted over with wallpaper. But, nevertheless, there is one curious moment: when it becomes necessary to remove this wallpaper in order to glue new ones (in about 10-15 years), it will be impossible to tear off this wallpaper from the drywall without damaging the drywall wall itself. Regardless of what wallpaper glue you used. They just stick on tight. To avoid this, the surface of the wall should still be primed. The primer will not interfere with gluing the wallpaper to the wall, but it will be much easier to tear it off the next repair - this way you save the wall. By the way, before painting the walls (say, water-based paint), the surface primer will also not be superfluous.

Priming / puttying plasterboard walls is a fairly extensive topic worthy of a detailed disclosure in a separate article. But in order for the material presented to be as exhaustive and useful as possible for you, here we will briefly describe what GKL putty / primer is. Let's consider this process step by step:

It is necessary to prepare the wall for applying a primer. This means that with the help of the same knife with replaceable blades at an angle of about 45 °, it is necessary to cut through the joints. At the same time, do not be afraid to remove the excess - this will not spoil the wall, but will only contribute to the correct application of finishing materials.
Let's move on to priming. Perhaps the wall will have to be primed several times. First, joints should be processed, as well as places where self-tapping screws are screwed in and places where the gypsum board adjoins the main walls / floor / ceiling. At the same time, we have the right not to process its “native” seams with a primer. This is not at all necessary.
If there are places where the GKL is damaged for some reason, that is, for example, scratched, this place, of course, must be carefully primed.

To visually familiarize yourself with the process of priming GKL, watch the video below:

As mentioned in the video, it is not necessary to prime all drywall. And it is true. But about putty - the question remains open. But don't worry. Now we will explain it properly. So, we need:

wide and narrow spatulas;
knife with replaceable blades;
drill mixer;
bucket. It is better if the bucket is not plastic, but metal. This is purely for reliability, because plastic can not withstand the blows of a ruthless mixer, and then the putty mixture will be on the floor, and not on the wall, where it belongs.

we glue the serpentine tape on all the “native” seams and around the perimeter (excluding the floor). At the same time, it is not necessary to glue the tape on those seams that we cut with a knife;
prepare the putty mixture, according to the instructions on the package;
using a wide spatula, we begin to apply the mixture to the seams and places where the screws are screwed. We need a narrow spatula to collect the mixture from the container. At the same time, do not press hard on the sickle tape, otherwise you may damage it;
we leave our wall for about a day. At a temperature of 18–20 ° C, the first layer will just dry during this time;
We proceed to apply the second layer according to the same principle. If you set to work not with the onset of the next day, but, say, after a week, then it is better to prime the surface again, since during this time dust has got 100% on the wall, which will 100% prevent good adhesion (adhesion of the applied mixture with working surface);
if you intend to glue the wallpaper on the wall, then, nevertheless, it is worth priming and puttying the entire surface. Above, we mentioned that the wallpaper will stick too well to the non-putty plasterboard. So good that during the next repair it will be simply impossible to remove them without damaging the drywall sheets.

How to putty drywall - see the video below:

We will not talk about how to paint walls and how to glue wallpaper in this article - it already turned out to be quite voluminous and, I hope, informative. In addition, the site contains a separate article about water-based paint. And do not be confused by the fact that it is about ceilings. In fact, painting a ceiling made of plasterboard does not fundamentally differ from painting walls made of the same material. Except, of course, that painting works are carried out in different planes. In the proposed article, not only the painting process is considered in detail, but also arguments are given in favor of the “water emulsion” and practical recommendations are given on the choice of tools (in particular, the main painting tool - a roller).

Thank you very much for your attention, dear reader. I hope that the above information has really been useful to you, and you will want to visit our cozy repair and construction portal again. Until we meet again, good luck in all your endeavors!

P.S. Here is a video that discusses the process of erecting a drywall partition:

Drywall refers to materials with which you can create unique designs and completely transform any apartment. It can be both interior partitions and sheathing of existing reinforced concrete structures. This approach to repair will make it possible to re-plan the apartment and hide the shortcomings of existing walls without much difficulty. Understanding how to make a drywall wall is easy, especially if you watch the tutorial video.

The main characteristics of drywall

This material has a number of undeniable advantages compared to other types of wall decoration in residential and non-residential premises. Here are just the most significant of them:

affordable price (the main plus at the present time);
ease of installation with your own hands;
environmental Safety;
moisture resistance and fire resistance;
the ability to give the desired shape;
ease of installation of lighting, noise and sound insulation.

What drywall is better to make a wall? To do this, you can use several options for sheets from the manufacturer Knauf:

standard sheet (hl) for dry rooms;
moisture resistant sheet (GKLV), almost universal and suitable for rooms with any humidity;
fire-resistant sheet (hklo) for rooms with an increased risk of fire;
a sheet that combines the two previous advantages - fire resistance and moisture resistance (gklvo).

For an ordinary city apartment (except for bathrooms), it is better to use ordinary sheets, with which you can form any figured structures. Below is how to make a wall without help, conduct an electrician and complete the finish.

Tool selection

Any construction and repair work is impossible without carefully selected tools and consumables. Therefore, before thinking about how to make a high-quality drywall wall, it is worth drawing up a drawing of the future design and an estimate.

The project should be drawn up taking into account all the nuances - the location of load-bearing walls, lighting and interior doors. In addition, it is necessary to indicate the actual dimensions (work to scale). This approach will allow you to correctly calculate the consumption of materials and avoid unnecessary expenses.

The list of "consumables" will look like this:

guide profiles for mounting on the ceiling, floor and walls of different sizes (50x40.100x40.75x40 mm);
rack profiles (50x50, 100x50, 75x50) for installation in load-bearing profiles;
self-tapping screws for fastening profiles (usually take 8 pieces per square meter of ceiling);
self-tapping screws for mounting hl (40 pieces per sheet);
dowels (dimensions 6x40 mm) for fastening the carrier profile (5 units for each);
tape for sealing;
drywall;
putty;
sickle;
primer;
dye.

GCL sheets are selected depending on the size of the structure, but taking into account the margin for cutting. How to choose the right tool to make a drywall wall? All inventory that will be used can be used in the future to create ceilings. Therefore, you should not save and buy only high-quality products. Here is an example list:

roulette;
pencil;
plumb;
crayon;
level (long and short);
screwdriver;
perforator;
scissors for metal;
a hammer;
sandpaper;
roller, spatula, brushes.

After the drawing is ready and the materials are purchased, you can proceed with the installation.

Installation of the frame, installation of sockets and switches

For any work on the installation of frame structures from HL, markings should be made. How to do it to install a drywall wall? First of all, you will need a tape measure and a plumb line. Marking can be applied both with chalk and pencil on all work surfaces - ceiling, floor.

After that, the installation of the carrier profile begins. With the help of dowels, they are attached to all pre-set marks. This procedure must be done with the utmost care, otherwise you can get an unstable, shaky structure. It is better to keep the distance between the dowels about 70 cm, but in some cases more frequent placement will be required. If at this stage questions arise, then you should once again consult with a specialist on how to make a wall from a metal profile.

The next is the turn of installing rack profiles, which must be fixed to the carrier and ceiling. They are cut in height and fixed at a distance of up to 0.6 m using self-tapping screws. Between the rack profiles, you can additionally fix their segments. This solution will improve the stability of the entire structure. If you plan to install fixtures or shelves in the future, it is best to reduce the distance between the profiles.

After completing the assembly of the frame, you should think about three important points, without which the completion of the repair is not possible: electrical wiring, laying noise and sound insulation. The main elements of electrical wiring are sockets, switches and wall lights. How to make connections in a plasterboard wall in compliance with all safety measures?

For laying, only wires in special protective non-combustible boxes should be used. Junction boxes should be mounted up to 20 cm from ceilings. They must have a protective cover and all work on their installation is carried out in accordance with the PUE. After that, a heater is laid, which will provide sufficient sound insulation of the room.

Plasterboard wall cladding and finishing

When the electrics and soundproofing are installed, you can begin the sheathing process. How to make a stable and high-quality wall from drywall?

Rule number 1. Sheets are best placed in a checkerboard pattern. It will look like this: whole sheets below, then their parts and vice versa. Sheathing sequence: one wall, laying communications and sound insulation, the second wall.

Rule number 2. For a quality construction, it is best to make a two-layer sheathing, although they often stop at a single-layer one in order to save material.

Rule number 3. The sheets are mounted using self-tapping screws every 25 cm. Important: the seams and joints of the first and second layers must not match! After that, it remains to make holes for sockets and switches, and you can proceed to the finishing.

Now a little about how to make a drywall wall ready for painting. Sequence of work:

initial primer;
basic putty;
gluing the seams with a sickle;
leveling putty;
the second layer of primer;
painting or wallpapering.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller, then the seams are glued and the surface is puttied. For these purposes, gypsum or polymer putty is suitable. Joints and traces of self-tapping screws should be well processed. The resulting excess can be removed with sandpaper. Next, the surface is primed again and painted and wallpapered.

It is better to choose pastel colors for the walls, the same tone as the ceiling (it can be a little darker). Any color options and wallpapers, both with and without a pattern, are suitable for a white ceiling.

There is a lot of information out there on how to make walls out of drywall sheets. But I wanted to learn more about how to mount curly partitions. What design options are suitable for a particular room in the apartment? After all, with the help of gypsum craton, you can divide the room into zones, visually reduce or increase it. The material allows you to realize the most daring design ideas both on the walls and on the ceiling.

Our topic today is a plasterboard interior wall. We will figure out how to build a frame for a plasterboard partition, how to sheathe it, how to install window and door blocks in the frame, how to make an arch arch and how to ensure maximum sound insulation of the wall. Let's get started.

How to install an interior plasterboard wall that is strong enough and provides acceptable sound insulation? Obviously, you need to start with the installation of the frame (see Mounting the frame under drywall on the wall with your own hands). For its construction, the author strongly advises not to use a bar, but a galvanized profile for the installation of gypsum boards.

There are several reasons:

Profiles have perfect geometry, but the bars often cannot boast of it;
Wood warps with fluctuations in humidity. Galvanized steel carries them without deformation;

The tree suffers from rot and insect activity, unlike its competitor. Antiseptic impregnation partly solves the problem, but it is partly - with consistently high humidity (typical, for example, for the operating conditions of the wall that limits the bathroom), the wood can still rot.

For the construction of the frame, we need profiles of two types:

Image	Description
	Rack profile CW with a width of 50 mm and a thickness of 50-100 mm. The thickness is selected depending on the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and on whether it is necessary to lay any large-section communications in its frame (sewerage, ventilation ducts, etc.). The length of the profile must be equal to or greater than the height of the ceiling, and the number of racks is selected for a step between them of 60 centimeters.
	The guide profile UW is responsible for fastening the frame to adjacent structures. Its thickness corresponds to the thickness of the uprights, with a fixed height of the side walls of 40 mm. The total length of all guide profiles must be at least equal to the perimeter of the future wall.

In addition to profiles, purchases will include:

Damper tape with a width corresponding to the width of the guides. Its task is to reduce the number of acoustic vibrations transmitted to capital structures from the partition frame;

Tip: instead of a damper tape, you can use rolled polyethylene foam cut into strips, which is used as a heater and substrate for laminate and parquet.

Self-tapping screws for metal for connecting rails with racks. Length - 9 mm;
Dowel-screws for mounting rails.

Attention! In a wooden house, the guides are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws at least 40 mm long.

The frame is mounted in the following order:

We mark the line of the partition on the floor, then with the help of a plumb line and a long ruler or profile we transfer the markings to the ceiling and walls;
We fasten the guides along the marking by placing a damper tape under the profile. Fastening step - no more than half a meter. To cut the profile, use only metal scissors: abrasive cutting with a grinder is contraindicated in thin galvanized metal, since its heating leads to zinc burning out and rust in the future;
We mark the positions of the racks. Step - exactly 60 cm along the axes of the rack profiles. In this case, the seams between adjacent sheathing sheets will fall in the middle of the uprights;

Recall: the standard width of a wall drywall sheet is 120 cm.

We cut to height and arrange the racks. We fasten each of them to the guides with metal screws on both sides. The frame is ready.

Tip: if the height of the wall is greater than the length of the sheet, it is advisable to install jumpers between the posts from the same CW profile at the level of the seam between the main and additional sheets. They will exclude the appearance of cracks under deforming loads.

Lesson 2: sheathing

Wall cladding with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used for covering the partition. Thinner ceiling plasterboard does not have sufficient strength, and may not survive an accidental elbow strike or carried furniture. Moreover, in rooms with high traffic (hallways, kitchens, corridors), the frame is sheathed in two layers on each side.

GKL can be ordinary (white) or moisture resistant (blue-green). The first is used in living rooms, and the second - in rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms and toilets).

Please note: drywall is purchased with a margin of 10-15% for trimming.

In addition to the plasterboard, to turn the frame into a wall ready for finishing, you will need:

Drywall screws or, in their absence, on wood. They differ only in the thread pitch: for wood fasteners, it is somewhat larger. Length - 25 mm (40 mm for fastening the second layer with a two-layer sheathing);

Reinforcement for seams- serpyanka (adhesive fiberglass mesh 5-8 cm wide);
Gypsum universal or finishing putty. Of the gypsum mixtures tested, the author liked the Turkish ABS Saten the most: it does not give lumps when mixed, and lives after kneading for at least 45 minutes.

Moreover, ABS that has begun to set can be diluted with water and continued to be used for another 15-20 minutes.

Let's break the entire sequence of work on sheathing and pre-finishing the wall into several technological operations and describe each of them in detail.

GKL cutting

In straight lines, drywall is usually not sawn off, but broken at the edge of any elevation, having previously been cut along the ruler by about a quarter of the thickness. After that, it remains only to cut through the cardboard shell from the back.

If the edge turned out to be slightly uneven - it does not matter:

Protrusions are removed with a special rasp within seconds;
Other defects are sealed when puttying the seams.
Curvilinear parts have to be cut according to the markings previously made on the sheet shell. For this are used:
A drywall saw (or, in its absence, a narrow garden saw);
Electric jigsaw with wood saw.

Important: the teeth of the file should look up, towards the sole of the tool. Otherwise, when cutting, it will try to bounce on the surface of the sheet, which is guaranteed to affect the accuracy of the cut line.

Drywall fixing

The sheet is installed vertically so that its edges fall on the middle of the racks, and is attracted to all the profiles covered by it (not excluding the guides) with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 20 cm.

A few basic rules for installing drywall:

The minimum distance from the fastener to the edge of the sheet is 20 mm. Try to fasten the sheet closer to the edge - you will get a chipped edge;
The hat should sink a millimeter deeper than the surface of the kraft paper. It has to be sealed during puttying;

If the self-tapping screw broke through the drywall, then do not unscrew it - just screw another one next to it. You will remove the hole remaining in the wall sheathing when puttying.

Putty mixing

Gypsum mixes are sold dry and closed with water before use (see How to dilute putty during self-repair). Its quantity per unit weight of the mixture is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging - usually it is equal to a liter of water per 1.6 kg of gypsum.

Mixing putty is done like this:

Pour the required amount of water into a bucket or other wide container (no more than 3 liters, otherwise you have a chance not to have time to work out the putty before it sets);

Pour the dry mixture into the water, distributing it as evenly as possible over the surface;
After 3-5 minutes, when the gypsum swells, mix the putty with a spatula or whisk until a uniform consistency.

Caution: never pour water into dry gypsum mix. The price of violating this rule is insoluble lumps at the bottom, which will spoil the surface of the plasterboard when puttying.

Reinforcement and puttying

The seams are reinforced with sickle pasted on both adjacent sheets, and puttied with the first layer directly through its cells. The second layer is applied after the first has dried (at least after 12 hours) and hides the texture of the glass mesh. The pits from the fasteners are also puttied at least twice: the second layer compensates for the shrinkage of the gypsum during hydration.

The seams between the sheets cut in place, need to be jointed before puttying. From them, with a sharp knife, chamfers are removed by 2/3 of the GKL thickness. Jointing contributes to filling the seam with putty to the full depth and the absence of cracks.

If the factory edges of the PLUK (semicircular with thinning) make it possible to hide the reinforcement by applying a layer of putty flush with the surface of the plasterboard, then the edges of drywall sheets cut in place do not provide such an opportunity. If the seams stand out in thickness, puttying the entire surface of the partition will help to hide them.

This is done with a wide spatula - putty is applied to it with a narrower tool, after which two maximally thin layers perpendicular to each other are applied to the gypsum board.

After the finishing layer of putty has dried, the wall surface is ground (with a grater or, which is much more convenient, with a grinder), cleaned of dust and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer for wallpaper or painting (see Primer for drywall for wallpaper - why is it needed).

Lesson 3: doors, windows

The interior wall of plasterboard is often equipped with a door or (in the case of a bath or bathroom) a skylight. How to embed a window or door block into a partition? The block (a box with a canvas or a frame) is mounted as an assembly at the frame assembly stage.

The procedure for installing a door is usually as follows:

We leave a gap in the lower guide for the entire width of the door frame;

We mount on a plumb line, strictly vertically one of the racks adjacent to the opening;
We expose the door block to a vertical position and fasten it with self-tapping screws screwed in from the side of the profile;

Tip: for greater reliability of fastening, sealant or mounting foam can be applied to the outer surface of the door frame.

In the same way, we mount the second rack on the opposite side of the block. At the same time, the door leaf must be wedged in the box with wooden wedges, scraps of plywood or hardboard - otherwise it may rub the jambs in the future;
We fix a jumper from a rack or guide profile above the door block.

The light window is mounted in the same way, but with two amendments:

The gap in the lower rail is not needed for obvious reasons;
There should be two jumpers between the racks adjacent to the opening - above the window and below it.

Lesson 4: maximum stiffness with minimum thickness

How to make a gypsum board wall as rigid as possible with its minimum thickness? In this case, guides and racks 50 mm thick are used to mount the frame.

Rigidity is provided in one of three ways or a combination of them:

Racks are connected in pairs (nested into each other or simply installed side by side);

The step between the posts is reduced to 400 or even 300 mm. Do not forget: the width of the drywall sheet must be a multiple of this step;
Wooden mortgages (50 mm bars) are embedded in the racks.

Lesson 5: arches

How to cut plasterboard arches into walls? The only difference between the frame of such a partition and the one described above is that the vault of the arch must be mounted with a flexible profile.

In this capacity, you can use:

Special arched profile;

Guide profile with side walls notched every 5-10 cm (depending on the radius of the plasterboard arch on the wall).

Covering the vault can be done:

Arched GKL 6 mm thick. It bends with a sufficiently small radius without damaging the shell and core;

Wall drywall, notched from the back to half the depth.
When fastened with screws to the frame, the vault forms a segmented surface.

A rounded shape is attached to the arch arch on a plasterboard wall when puttying.

Lesson 6: Soundproofing

The wall between the bedroom and the living room, for obvious reasons, should provide maximum sound insulation - a member of your family who hardly wants to sleep will be pleased with the sounds of a feast or watching the next blockbuster on a nightly television channel.

The simplest way to soundproof a plasterboard wall is to fill the cavities of the frame with mineral wool. For this purpose, it is best to purchase glued boards with a size of 1000x600 mm. Their dimensions allow you to install a heater between the racks with a standard spacing step, without cutting them in width.

In the photo - filling the partition frame with soundproofing material

However, the mineral wool will only dampen the acoustic resonance in the frame cavity. Meanwhile, the frame itself is also capable of transmitting acoustic vibrations from one side of the wall to the other.

The problem is solved by building two independent frames with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm each with a small gap between them. The cavities between the racks are filled with mineral wool; sheathing on each side is carried out in one or, which is much more reasonable, in two layers.

Conclusion

We hope that our lessons will help the reader to master the basics of building from GKL. To learn more about how interior plasterboard walls are built with your own hands, the video in this article will help you. Good luck!

As they say: My home is my castle! Let's talk about how to create fortress walls with your own hands. One of the most popular materials for leveling walls and creating partitions is drywall. Do DIY plasterboard walls not only fast, but also reliable. Drywall is a sheet of gypsum, pasted over on both sides with sheets of paperboard. Its main task is to create even and smooth surfaces. It is similar in characteristics to wood, but compared to it, it is fire resistant, which means it does not burn. The advantage of drywall is its low thermal conductivity, which maintains the macroclimate in the house. Drywall is environmentally friendly. It is advisable to start doing the installation of the cladding during the finishing work. When the wiring of technical and electrical systems is completed. At a temperature not lower than +10° C. In winter, with the heating turned on.

What is required for work:

Level
simple pencil
Electric or manual scissors for cutting metal.
Screwdriver to drill self-tapping screws into the structure.
A cutter, with its help you will carry out a cut with a bend, which will serve as a fastening of the profiles to each other.
Direct suspension - necessary for hanging the structure on the ceiling.
A single-level connector in the common people is a crab - it is necessary to connect the structure at the same level.
Self-tapping screws. For connecting drywall and profiles to each other
Measuring tool, it can be a standard tape measure or laser.
Construction material - Gypsum board.
Construction knife.
Profile. To install drywall walls, you will need a rack profile and a guide.

Grooves are made in the rack-mount for centering fasteners. And specially designed technological holes for laying the channel cable and other wires.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step execution of drywall walls:

Markup. To begin with, we mark the design position of the partition on the wall and ceiling.
Frame installation. We cut the profile for the guides to the required length with special scissors. To improve the soundproofing characteristics, a sealing tape equal to the width of the product is glued to the guide profiles. Using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the guide profile to the ceiling, pay attention if the wall is strongly curved, then pressing the profile to it, we deform it. In such cases, cut the profile before fixing, and then fix it.
By level, we measure straight lines to the floor. It is necessary to make and cut a profile that is mounted on the floor. Between the attachment points, the distance is not more than 1 meter, with at least three attachments per profile.
Install side profiles. In the corners, they are connected to each other with the help of a cutter, and they are attached to the wall with a screwdriver and screws.
We determine the height of the rack profiles using a measuring device. Cut the rack profile to size. Next, we mount the rack profile. Make sure that it is strictly vertical. For greater reliability, attach the rack profile to the wall using hangers.
We install transverse stiffeners, which are interconnected using fasteners and a single-level connector, the so-called crab. A space is formed between the system and the wall, which, if necessary, is filled with mineral wool. To protect your hands from injury, work must be done with gloves. Mineral wool will serve as a heater and sound insulator. So, the frame for installing drywall is ready. The top structure rests on profiles, as well as transverse profiles, which give rigidity to the structure. The design is aligned horizontally and vertically.
Now we are preparing a drywall sheet. Check if it fits the design parameters. If there is a need to cut the sheet, first mark the required size on each side, then attach a metal ruler, cut the cardboard and part of the gypsum core with a cutting knife. Break the sheet along the notch line, and cut the cardboard along the other side of the sheet. Attention! It is not advisable to draw a line with a pencil and make an incision along the line. In this case, you will not be able to cut straight, it is better to cut along the ruler. After preparing the drywall sheet, begin to close the structure. For the installation of building material, you will need self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. The screws should enter the drywall at a 90° angle. When attaching building material, the sheet must be less than the height of the room and is 10 mm from the floor. After everything is installed, you can complete the positions associated with sockets and light bulbs.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls by gluing.

The frame method is not the only way to level the wall surface. There is another option - gluing a sheet of drywall. Gluing is the simplest way to veneer a surface with drywall. Gluing is suitable if you need to save squares of a house or apartment. Let's take a look at the gluing process. An important role is played by surface preparation, this should not be missed in any work. What includes surface preparation, the first thing you need to do is check the base for sagging, weak areas, remove plaster or wallpaper. Also clean from dust.

Remember! When installing profiles, the backrests must face the same direction. Make sure that the openings for passing communications are at the same level in accordance with the project.

Absorbent surfaces are pre-treated with a deep penetrating primer, which must be dried for at least 4 hours. If the base is uneven more than 20 mm, level the surface by gluing strips of drywall 10 cm wide. Take ordinary mounting glue. We do not recommend taking risks and gluing to something else, for example, some recommend using mounting foam, but this method most likely will not live up to expectations. The glue is poured into a container, after which it is filled with water, and mixed with a special mixer. A different cooking sequence will result in lumps and the risk of an unworkable mixture. The glue is applied with a trowel on the sheet or directly on the base in small flat piles at a distance of about 20 cm and from the center of the sheet in 35 cm increments. It is advisable to work with the glue quickly, otherwise it may freeze. After applying the adhesive, the drywall is lifted, placed on linings 10–15 mm high from the floor level and pressed against the wall.

With light blows, it is brought to the design position by checking the verticality or horizontality with a level. Further work is carried out similarly with the rest of the sheets. After completion, you can start filling the joints using reinforcing tape, putty and a spatula.

Attention! It is not necessary to drill holes in the profile in advance for their subsequent fastening.

Plasterboard wall finish.

Well, here is the finish line. It doesn't matter which of the two methods is used for wall cladding with drywall. In any case, now it remains to putty all the defects that affect the aesthetic side of the structure. Finishing is identical. The preparation of drywall for finishing can be either puttying the seams or completely puttingtying the surface. If drywall sheets have irregularities and defects, then they must be removed. Then we apply sealing tape to the joints. It is necessary to close up all the joints, and then proceed to the putty. To work, you will need a spatula and putty mixture. When working with gypsum mixtures, use tools and utensils made of stainless material. Puttying work is carried out from 5 to 30 C. in a draft-free room. The spatula should be slightly curved in an arc in order not to leave marks. According to the rules, putty must be applied from dry to wet, if applied from wet to dry, traces will remain. We advise you to pay special attention to sealing the recesses from the self-tapping screws. For wallpaper, one layer of putty is sufficient, if the walls are to be painted, two layers are needed. After finishing the putty, you can start decorating the walls. You can wallpaper, paint, decorate with decorative ceramic tiles or finish with stone.

"Don't judge a house by the owner, but judge the owner by the condition of the house." Are the fortress walls ready? You have made a good choice, as this building material has a lot of advantages. 11 advantages of drywall:

A large selection that offers different characteristics for any conditions.
Available in price. In comparison, if you plaster and putty, finishing with plasterboard sheets will cost several times cheaper.
Possesses the heat-insulating ability.
Soundproof.
Small specific weight. When finishing with drywall, slight pressure on the foundation and supporting structures.
Easy to use. Suitable for both professional and novice.
The material has the ability to absorb moisture when there is an excess in the air and gives it away if the air is too dry.
Refractory. Refers to non-combustible materials.
Reliably. Over the years, it does not crack, does not crumble.
Environmentally friendly material.
Design possibility. Thanks to drywall, you can embody original ideas in creating an interior.

Making drywall walls with your own hands is quite easy. Provided that all actions are performed correctly, the result will be reliable and will serve you for many years! In conclusion, let's say that drywall is an obvious leader in the installation of various types of structures and wall alignment. Remember, the work must be done with a soul, then the result will please you and the rest of the family twice as much. Because home is not just a place, it is a state of mind.