Attaching the sink to the countertop. Installing an undermount sink into a countertop: a step-by-step guide on how to glue a sink to a countertop

How to embed a sink into a countertop

DIY furniture

When replacing a sink or purchasing a new kitchen unit, it becomes necessary to embed the sink into the countertop. This work can be entrusted to furniture makers or a craftsman can be called in, but this is not always possible. You can embed the sink into the countertop yourself, and in this case you can be confident in the quality of the work. This process is not very difficult, but at the same time it requires attention and high-quality execution. An incorrect insert will cause water to seep into the tabletop, causing it to become wet, swell and deform. The service life of the tabletop depends on the correct installation of the tabletop, regardless of the material.

When purchasing a sink, you need to find out how it is attached. There are fasteners for sinks different designs and shape, but it may also differ in quality. It is important to select fasteners for a specific sink model, and at the same time choose the highest quality products.

The sink embedding process includes several main steps, described below.

Installation of a mortise sink is more complicated than in the case of an overhead model, but this is compensated by the absence of dampness between the cabinets of the kitchen unit, which is possible with an overhead sink. The differences between these two options are that mortise models the sides have a height of 5 mm, and for overhead sinks the sides are stamped and equal to 3 mm.

As for the shape of a built-in sink, there is no difference between installing a round and rectangular sink.

For installation mortise table top for a chipboard countertop you will need following materials and tools:

Pencil

Construction corner

Phillips screwdriver

Jigsaw

Silicone sealant

Self-tapping screws

Choosing a sink installation method

There are different options sink installations, which depend on the characteristics of the kitchen furniture and the wishes of the customer. An undermount sink can be installed below, above or flush with the countertop. Options flush and below the countertop provide sinks without sides, which provide many advantages: ease of cleaning the work surface, large selection bowl for washing and accessories for them, extension working area, beautiful appearance. In any case, it is necessary to carefully seal the sink seams to prevent water penetration.

Tabletop markings

It is necessary to correctly mark the countertop where the mortise sink will be installed. To do this, you need to take into account the following: at least 5 cm away from the front side, and at least 2.5 cm away from the back side. These figures may vary depending on the design of the kitchen unit, the size of the kitchen or the location of the sink.

Using a pencil, two perpendicular lines are drawn at the place where the countertop is installed, at the intersection of which the center of the sink bowl will be located. After this, mark the boundaries of the edges, place the inverted sink on the countertop and outline its outer contours.

Each sink must be equipped with fastening elements. They can be made of plastic or metal, and it is better to give preference to the second option - such fastenings are more reliable. The fasteners from the fastening kit are installed on the sink, and the fasteners for the countertop are set aside for now.

Next, measure the exact width of the side, taking into account the protrusions of the fasteners. For stainless steel sinks this size is 12 mm. On the countertop, inside the already drawn contour of the sink, another contour is drawn taking into account the size of the side, which will indicate the cutting line. It is necessary to accurately measure and draw this contour so that during subsequent installation the sink fits freely into the groove, and there are no distortions or excess material anywhere.

From the outer contour it is necessary to step back inward by the width of the side, while a backlash of no more than 2 mm is allowed.

Cutting a hole for a sink

If the sink bowl fits freely into the mounting hole and there is little play, then everything is done correctly. If the sink does not fit into the hole and gets stuck somewhere, then the protruding parts must be trimmed with a jigsaw.

Sealing the sink

After the mounting hole is formed, the walls of the table top at the cut site are cleaned of dust and silicone sealant is applied. Then a special seal is glued to the side of the sink along the entire contour.

After this, you need to check the evenness of the seal. If it protrudes somewhere by more than 1 mm, then it is trimmed with a sharp knife.

After attaching the seal, silicone sealant is completely applied to it and proceed directly to installing the sink.

Installation of a mortise sink

The sink is lowered into the mounting hole and its edges are aligned along the first marked contour. Then take the tabletop fasteners and use them to secure the bowl without fully tightening it. It is important to align the sink strictly along the outlined contour. When the product is completely installed according to the marks, you can finally tighten all the fasteners.

If everything is done correctly, then a little sealant should be squeezed out along the entire contour of the sink. Using a clean cloth or napkin, remove excess sealant and pencil markings, and leave the sink for a day to completely dry.

At correct execution work, the mortise sink and kitchen countertop will serve you for a long time and reliably.

How to embed a sink into a countertop with your own hands

Every kitchen must have a sink, as it is an integral attribute and hardly any housewife can do without it. For those who have never installed sinks, it will be interesting to know that currently there are two methods - overhead and mortise. You can familiarize yourself with each of them in this article and then choose the most suitable one for yourself.

The choice of method will depend on several factors - the customer’s desire and the characteristics of the kitchen furniture. You have the opportunity to install mortise sinks as you like or suit the chosen interior - below the countertop, flush, or above. Both options, except the one above, involve the use of separate bowls without any sides. By installing a built-in sink you will receive a number of advantages: a beautiful aesthetic appearance, the work surface is quite convenient to care for, there is a wide choice sinks, various sizes With all kinds of accessories, the working area is significantly increased, hygienic.

Whatever installation you choose, the seams formed must be carefully sealed. How to install a compact dishwasher. A built-in sink also has a drawback - it is quite inconvenient to connect the communications; to do this you will have to crawl under the sink or turn over the countertop.

If your choice is to install a built-in sink, then this service will cost you a little more, but in return you get a complete absence of dampness between the cabinets, which is for the kitchen. The sinks differ only in the height of the side and the brackets: the side of a stamped sink is 3 cm, and the side of a mortise sink is 5 mm.

Quite often, professional specialists are asked the question of how to properly install a round sink? In reality, there is no difference in the installation of a rectangular and round sink; the technology is similar everywhere.

Let's look at the most popular installation option - installing a sink in a countertop made of such a common material as chipboard. To carry out this “operation” we will need a tape measure, a knife, a Phillips screwdriver, a pencil, a ruler and a construction corner. Don’t forget to get yourself self-tapping screws, a jigsaw, an electric drill and silicone sealant.

So, let's start looking at the installation, first you need to prepare the table and make all the necessary markings, of course there are no specific frameworks, each case is unique. In most cases, the distance from the front wall is 50 mm, and from the back wall 25 mm, but I repeat once again that these data are not a rule for all types of countertops. Sometimes calculations will depend on the kitchen furniture itself and its features.

Now we find the golden mean, for this we draw two perpendicular lines corresponding to 90˚ on the table and the place where they intersect will be the center of our sink, then we outline the outer contour.

Manufacturers can equip their sinks with various fastening elements, mostly plastic or metal; if you have the opportunity to choose, then give your preference to all-metal ones. As practice shows, they are more practical to use and can last longer. We install the fasteners that are attached to the sink first, and those that are on the countertop should be put aside for now.

Now the turn has come to the most important thing - this is measuring the width of the side (the protrusions of the fastenings must be taken into account). If the stainless sink has standard dimensions, the deviation will be 12 mm. We now have an outer circle, and next to it draw an inner one.

According to your calculations, the sink should fit freely into the countertop so that everything goes perfectly. Take the outer drawn contour and, retreating a couple of millimeters, begin to manually draw the inner circle.

Let's start cutting in the countertop; we will need one hole if we are talking about a round sink, or up to five if we need to install a trapezoidal or rectangular one. The through hole must be made inside the second contour, but at the same time, so that it does not touch the cut line.

The jigsaw must enter the tabletop from the outside, so we will drill the hole from here, and it is much more convenient. We carefully follow the line with a jigsaw and, as we move, insert self-tapping screws into the resulting hole, this way we will protect ourselves from the sawn-off tabletop falling down. Once the hole is made, lower the sink into the countertop to check that everything is done correctly. IN ideal The sink should fit freely into the hole and have a slight play; if not, then we trim the “problem” areas with a jigsaw.

Now it’s just a matter of small things - we clean the walls and cut areas from dust and sawdust, after which you can apply sealant to the entire surface. We glue the seal along the entire perimeter of the sink; if in some places it sticks out more than 1 mm, it should be cut off with a knife. As soon as the seal sits well on the sides, we now apply silicone sealant around the entire perimeter of the sink itself.

Finishing touches for installation

So we have come to the final moment of working on a carpentry machine. We put our sink in its future place and align it along the first contour, now we take the clamps that we had previously put aside and install it, but be careful, you need to constantly monitor the fit of the sink so that it does not move anywhere.

After complete installation and properly tightening the fasteners, the remaining sealant should be squeezed out, then we take a damp cloth and carefully remove traces of markings and remaining sealant. The structure should be left for a day for complete hardening and installation.

Is it possible to remove bulges on chipboard around a built-in sink?

Is it possible to remove swelling on the chipboard around a built-in sink?

** Sage (14993) 5 years ago

Theorists.

1.Remove the sink. 2. Select a groove under the swelling. or stupidly pick out the sodden rot. there is more swelling in area, place a board on top hardwood or chipboard and compress with a powerful clamp. looked. we saw that the hernia was pressed in (under the board, if it didn’t press all the way, place 5-6 pieces of paper over the area of ​​the swelling. This will create some emphasis on the damaged surface. (cut out the leaves according to the area of ​​the hernia) 3. drive epoxy glue there (take bourgeois or Moment in 2 syringes, carefully read the instructions, especially the polymerization time.) Since the curing time of the glue is insignificant, first practice laying and pressing.

Now after pinching, take a household hair dryer and heat the gluing area for 10 minutes.

If there is not enough glue for the entire volume of the gap, then when applying the glue, proceed as follows - apply part of the glue to the walls of the hole, and quickly mix part of the glue with the scooped out sawdust and fill up the missing volume with this mass. from start to finish 30-50 minutes of work.

From the heart so that the thickness of the silicone is as thick as a finger so that there are no gaps left. then we install the sink in place, first coat the cutout with silicone around the perimeter. The pot stood up. pulled it in, removed the excess silicone (and it should protrude around the entire perimeter..) and waited for it to dry completely. Using a thin knife, cut the silicone around the perimeter of the sink and remove the tape.

You can use the sink after you have installed it and removed excess silicone.

Source: Vyacheslav. Furniture restorer

** Sage (14993) 5 years ago

At work I simply cut out the defect and add volume with polymers.

I tint epoxy glue (only from the Dzerzhinsky plant) and write out the fragment... Then I restore the surface texture.

I won’t tell you how. And not everyone can repeat it..

How to embed a sink into a countertop or what not only engineers can do?

Installing a sink in a countertop - determining the method

Installation of a mortise sink - marking the territory

How to embed a sink into a countertop - make a mounting hole

Installing a sink into a countertop - the finishing line

1 Installing a sink in a countertop - determining the method

The choice of one or another installation method is determined by the characteristics of the kitchen furniture and the desire of the customer. Undermount sinks can be installed above, flush or below the countertop. The last two are completely separate bowls of various shapes without sides. This installation of mortise sinks creates many advantages:

very hygienic;

easy maintenance of the work surface;

expansion of the working area;

a large assortment of all kinds of sinks and accessories for them;

aesthetic appearance.

For any installation option, it is necessary to seal the seams. The only inconvenience of a built-in sink is the supply of communications, for which it is necessary to penetrate under the sink or turn over the countertop.

Installing a built-in sink is somewhat more expensive to install, but it compensates for this by the absence of dampness between the kitchen cabinets, which is possible if a cabinet with an overhead sink is installed. The fundamental difference between the two types of sinks is the design of the side and brackets; for a built-in sink, the side has a height of about 5 mm, and for an overhead sink, the stamped side is 3 cm.

Experts are often asked the question of how to install a round sink. In principle, there is practically no difference between installing a rectangular sink and a round one. Below we will describe how, following the advice, you can install a mortise sink made of stainless steel (the most popular material) with your own hands using ordinary power tools.

Installation of a sink into a countertop made of chipboard (the most common type of kitchen countertop) is carried out using a pencil, tape measure, ruler, corner piece, Phillips screwdriver, knife. As well as power tools: jigsaw, electric drill, self-tapping screws and silicone sealant.

2 Installation of a mortise sink - marking the territory

Installing a sink into a countertop begins with marking the area where it will be installed. Typically, the distance from the front side of the tabletop is at least 50 mm, and from the back - about 25 mm or less. But these figures are not absolute and universal; in each specific case they may be different, depending on the size of the sink, the features of the insert, as well as the kitchen furniture.

On the tabletop, draw two perpendicular (90˚) lines with a pencil, the center of their intersection marks the center of the bowl, and mark the boundaries of the edges. After this, we place the inverted sink on the markings made and carefully outline the outer contour of the product.

In addition to the product itself, the kit must also include fastening elements. Manufacturers complete their products with different types (metal or plastic). If you have a choice, it is better to give preference to all-metal ones; they are more reliable in operation. We install the clamps on the sink, and those that are attached to the countertop need to be set aside a little.

The next step is to accurately measure the width of the side, taking into account all the protrusions of the fasteners. Typically for stainless steel sinks this width is about 12 mm carpentry tools names and photos. On the tabletop, parallel to the drawn outer contour, but inside it, draw another contour (cut line).

It must be drawn in such a way that the sink bowl can fit into it freely. To do this, we step back from the outer contour inward by the width of the side, allow about 2 mm of play on each side, and draw the inner contour by hand.

3 How to embed a sink into a countertop - make a mounting hole

In order to cut a mounting hole, we make a through hole in the countertop in one (if the sink is round) or 4-5 places (if the sink is rectangular or trapezoidal) so that it is inside the second contour, close to the cutting line, but does not touch her.

You only need to drill a hole on the front side of the tabletop. This will be the entry point for the jigsaw blade. After this, we make a closed cut along the cutting line. During the process, it is necessary to periodically screw self-tapping screws into the gap, which will serve as temporary fasteners in order to prevent the sawn-off tabletop from falling down. After this, we lower the sink into the sawn hole and check that the work was done correctly.

If the sink fits in freely and has a slight play, then everything is done correctly, but if not, then trimming with a jigsaw is necessary. After this, we clean the sawn walls of the tabletop from dust and apply silicone sealant.

We glue the seal along the entire contour to the side of the sink. If it protrudes somewhere by more than 1 mm, it must be trimmed with a knife. When the seal is in place, apply silicone sealant to it in a continuous strip. Now we have come close to how to install a sink into a countertop.

4 Installation of a sink into a countertop - the finishing line

Having lowered the sink into the mounting hole, we align it with the first circuit. After this, we take 2-4 previously set aside fasteners and fix the product (but do not tighten it completely), while constantly monitoring its position relative to the contour.

When the product is clearly installed on the markings of the first circuit, we finally tighten all the fasteners. Indirect confirmation of correct installation is the squeezed out sealant. We wipe off the markings and excess sealant with a clean napkin and leave the entire structure for a day for the sealant to harden.

We hope that after reading this article, questions about how to install a built-in sink will disappear, or at least there will be much fewer of them.

Drilling a hole in the sink

How to properly apply sealant to a countertop sink 2014-12-10T18:45:30+03:00 admin Articles embed sink, mortise sink, sink countertop, washing the countertop, After that

Contents How to embed a sink into a countertop How to embed a sink into a countertop with your own hands Is it possible to remove the bulge on the chipboard around a recessed sink? How to embed a sink into a countertop or what not only engineers can do? Drilling a hole in the sink How to embed a sink into a countertop How to embed a sink into a countertop Do-it-yourself furniture When replacing a sink or purchasing...

Subscriber Construction blog

Hello friends.

In this article, we will look at one very serious operation, which greatly affects the quality of the kitchen set.

We will talk about installing a sink. We will look at this entire process from start to finish with all its nuances.

Before installing the sink, you need to decide in which part of the countertop it should be located.

To do this, the countertop must be placed on the lower modules of the kitchen, and the box in which the sink should be placed must be traced from the inside with a pencil (along the countertop) to determine the internal space for it.

After this, you need to place the table bottom up and mark the place for cutting the hole. This is done as follows:

  • Then, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the edge to the eyelet into which the fastener is attached.


  • Having made 8-10 such “notches”, through them, using the same sink, we draw curves (in parts), which form inside the circle we have drawn, another circle, the radius of which is less than the radius of the main circle at a distance from the edge of the sink to its lug . This will be the circle that needs to be cut out with a jigsaw.
  • We do with inside hole this circle with a large drill (usually a drill with a diameter of 10 millimeters).
  • We insert a jigsaw file into this drill and cut out a hole. Remember, when the hole is almost cut, to support the cut part of the tabletop, as it may break off, breaking the plastic from the face.


When the hole is made, its inner part must be covered with silicone, since this place is the most problem area in the kitchen. It should be protected as much as possible from moisture getting inside the tabletop, since in this case, the tabletop can simply “tear” from moisture - and this is its complete replacement.



So, after the hole is “siliconized”, we begin to prepare the sink for insertion.

To do this, you need to stick adhesive tape on its inner surface, which is always included in the kit (plus fasteners and plus plastic tubes for draining).


Please note before you buy a sink: The adhesive tape (which needs to be glued inside) should not be glued to it. It should come included. In almost all sinks that had adhesive tape pre-applied, it was not applied correctly.

And it is glued correctly so that there is a small distance between it and the side of the sink itself (it looks like a gutter there) where the silicone is poured.


It turns out that there are two barriers at the same time: adhesive tape and silicone.

So, when all this is done and the silicone is poured, the sink is inserted into the hole cut in the countertop (from bottom to top). If the tabletop is located, for example, on two chairs, then one of them can be immediately placed under the sink, thus fixing it.


After this, fasteners are inserted into it.

I would like to note that this is one of the most popular kitchen units to install.

The fasteners that attach it to the tabletop are usually poor (meaning poorly thought out). Problems almost always arise with it (for this, you must always have spare versions of this fastener for installation).


There are situations when it simply does not fix the countertop, but slides off to the sink (which is what happened during the installation, photographs from which are posted in this article as an example).

No matter how much we bent the tendrils of the fastener itself, it stubbornly jumped off the tabletop (and, of course, did not fix it).

The easiest way out of this situation is as shown in the pictures: you need to insert a piece of chipboard, or something else, between the sink and the fastener itself. Thus, the fastener is fixed and, twisting, attracts the sink.



But, you shouldn’t forget one detail: you need to practice installation, if possible, not for very long, since the silicone that was poured inside the sink, when it was pressed to the countertop, partially “came out” out. It should not have time to harden, since in this case, when removing it, you can also remove part of the silicone located under the sink.

When it is pulled to the tabletop, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between it and the tabletop. If they are, it means she is poorly attracted.


At the end, you need to wipe off the silicone that has protruded from under the sink and the sink itself.

That's basically all.

This is where I end, see you in new articles.

Today there is a wide variety of all kinds of mortise (built into the countertop) kitchen sinks made of different materials having various shapes and colors. The most popular, inexpensive and at the same time durable type of kitchen sink can be considered sinks made of stainless steel. Let's look at how to install a stainless steel kitchen sink with your own hands, using simple household power tools. Absolutely any mortise sinks are installed using the same principle.

We will install the sink in a countertop made of chipboard, covered with plastic on top - the most common type of kitchen countertop. If necessary, e embed the sink into a countertop made of another material (for example, artificial stone), you need to follow the recommendations of the countertop manufacturer. There are also overhead sinks that are simply put on (placed) on top of the cabinet; such sinks are considered obsolete and are used extremely rarely; they will not be discussed in this article.

To install a kitchen sink, we need:

  1. Pencil, tape measure, ruler, construction angle, Phillips screwdriver, sharp knife.
  2. Jigsaw with file type Bosch T101B orT101BR.
  3. Electric drill with a metal drill with a diameter of 10-12 mm.
  4. Several self-tapping screws 16-30 mm long.
  5. Silicone colorless sealant (universal or plumbing).


FilesBosch T101B (top) andBosch T101BR (bottom).
They differ in the direction of the teeth: straight and
the opposite(reverse) respectively.

Marking.

Accurate marking is the key to successful installation. To begin with, you need to decide on the axis of symmetry, that is, symmetrically to what the sink will be installed. Usually, the line of the center of the sink bowl (for a round one - its diameter) goes along the center of the cabinet above which the sink is installed. Other installation options are possible, depending on the specific case (kitchen set configuration). As a rule, the distance from the front edge of the tabletop should not be less than 50 mm, and from the rear edge - less than 25 mm. However, these figures cannot be considered universal, and depending on the size of the sink, as well as the features of the insert, the figures may be different. With a pencil we draw two perpendicular axes on the front surface of the tabletop, indicating the center of the bowl and mark the boundaries of the sink (left, right, top, bottom).


Indentations from the edges of the tabletop.

Place the sink on the front surface of the countertop with the bowl facing up and align the sink relative to the markings made. Carefully, without moving the sink from its place, outline the outer contour of the sink with a pencil. We remove the sink from the countertop.

Depending on the manufacturer, included stainless sink(d Most sinks made of artificial stone do not have such fastenings.) may include metal, or plastic fastenings. If possible, preference should be given to metal (all-metal) fasteners, as they are more reliable. Before installing the fasteners on the sink, it is recommended to disassemble them (by separating the parts mounted on the sink and on the countertop from each other). By clicking, the parts of the fastenings are installed on the sink into the corresponding metal eyes so that the fastenings protrude minimally outward - “looking” into the inside of the sink.



Part of the fastening installed on the sink.

We accurately measure the width of the sink side (the distance from the outer edge of the sink to installed fasteners), taking into account the protrusions of the fasteners. As a rule, the width of the rim of a stainless steel sink ranges from 10 to 15 mm.



The sink is ready to be outlined on the countertop.

Parallel to the outer contour of the sink previously drawn on the countertop, draw by hand (or using a ruler to control accuracy) another contour - the cutting line - inside (closer to the center of the sink), indented by the width of the side of the sink minus 1-2 mm. The sink should fit freely into the future hole, allowing up to 2 mm of play on each side.


Marking the cutting line.

Cutting a mounting hole in the countertop.

In one (for a round sink) or several places (in the corners of the markings, for a rectangular sink) of the countertop, we make a through hole with a 10-12 mm drill so that the future hole is close to the cutting line, but does not touch it (it is closer to the center of the sink) . It is necessary to drill from the front surface of the tabletop! We get a hole(s) for the file to enter.

Using a jigsaw, exactly along the cutting line, we make a closed cut. To keep the inside of the tabletop in place (not fall down), you need to screw screws into the gap from time to time, which will act as temporary fasteners (wedges). We insert the sink into the countertop, check that the cutout is made correctly (the sink should fit freely with a slight play), if necessary, perform additional trimming with a jigsaw.



Close-up of the hole.



Small chips of plastic are acceptable.
To avoid chipping at all, you need to use a file
T101BRwith reverse direction of teeth.

After sawing is completed and the unnecessary (inner) part of the tabletop is removed, it is necessary to clean the cut from dust and carefully cover it with silicone sealant (using a small rubber spatula), this will prevent the tabletop from swelling when water gets in. You also need to lubricate the plastic chips that formed during sawing. There is no need to get too carried away - there is no point in covering the cut with a thick layer of sealant.


Applying sealant to the cut.

We glue the foamed polyethylene seal (included with the sink) to the side of the sink around the entire perimeter. If, after gluing the seal, it protrudes beyond the outer contour of the side (rises above it) by more than 1 mm, then the seal must be trimmed with the sharp tip of a knife, otherwise there is a possibility that the fasteners will not be able to fully press the seal and press the sink to the plane of the countertop . If we are dealing with a sink made of artificial stone, then there is no need to glue any seals.

Using a clean cloth soaked in gasoline or acetone, degrease the surface of the seal and the line of contact of the seal to the countertop. We apply the sealant to the sealant in a continuous strip, not being carried away by the thickness of this strip (it is assumed that the sealant is glued flush with the protrusion of the side). In practice, you can find a way to install a stainless steel sink without using a sealant at all; in this case, the entire space designed for inserting the sealant is filled with sealant. This is acceptable, but undesirable for several reasons: high consumption of sealant (as a result, long drying time), difficult control of filling the seam, and the labor-intensive process of dismantling the sink in case of unsuccessful installation. An exception is the installation of a sink made of artificial stone; such a sink is mounted only on sealant.


Applying sealant to the seal.

Sink fastening.

We insert the sink into the hole in the countertop and align it with the markings (the markings must be applied so that they are partially preserved after cutting out the countertop). We take two or four fasteners and, equidistant from each other, pre-fasten the sink (without fully tightening the fastenings), constantly monitoring its position relative to the markings. Attention! Tightening the sink fasteners must be done manually, without using a screwdriver, since the threads are plastic parts breaks easily! We turn the tabletop upside down (for convenience), install all the fasteners, and finally tighten them, trying to do this evenly and consistently. To ensure that the sharp spikes of the fasteners penetrate the tabletop in the best possible way, you can sharpen them with a file and/or lightly tap them with a hammer while tightening them.


Mounting on the sink in assembled form. By tightening the self-tapping screw, the sink is attracted to the countertop. The sharp ends of the metal part of the fastening must be securely fixed in the tabletop.


Tighten the fasteners with a screwdriver.


The fastening is tight. It is recommended to lightly tap the fastener with a hammer so that the sharp ends cut deeper into the tabletop.


All fastenings are tight.

Let's look at the result of the work: the sink should be pressed along the entire perimeter to the surface of the countertop, installed along the marking lines. Indirect confirmation of the complete fit of the sink can be the squeezed out sealant. Use a cloth to wipe off excess sealant and markings from the front surface of the countertop. Allow the sealant to harden overnight. If the sink is made of artificial stone and is not equipped with fasteners, it is necessary to ensure that it is completely immobile while the sealant is curing.


The sink is well pressed to the countertop. The sealant squeezed out slightly.

Installing a built-in kitchen sink is a responsible undertaking. Poor installation of the sink can not only spoil the appearance of the kitchen, but also lead to rapid failure of the countertop due to water penetrating under the sink onto the cut of the countertop. Primary importance should be given to sealing the sink-countertop joint; do not rely on well-executed processing of the cutout end.

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Installing an undermount sink into a countertop

Most kitchen sinks can be divided into table or countertop installation based on the type of installation; very often these are chip or metal sinks that are used in the kitchen. Next comes installation on the wall, as a rule, sinks with such a mount are ceramic, which are installed in the bathtub or toilet. And the last type is installing a ceramic sink on a bedside table or shelf.

Drawing of countertop markings for installing a sink.

Installing a sink into a countertop

The most important thing at the stage of inserting a sink into the countertop is to ensure high-quality tightness of the contacting joints of the countertop and the edge of the sink. It is necessary to perfectly accurately mark and cut the opening for your sink. A special rubber gasket is installed between the sink and the table, and then the fastenings on the sink are tightened. These fasteners allow you to securely press the sink to the table, thereby ensuring that water will not get under the sink and the installation will be successful.

Some types of sinks are produced without a rubber gasket, in which case you can use silicone. It will fill empty spaces, providing a reliable guarantee against water getting inside.

The faucet is usually attached to the bottom of the sink. Subsequently, it is secured with the necessary rubber gaskets and clamps, ensuring a reliable connection between the sink and the faucet. Hot and cold water It is better to connect with flexible hoses with separate valves.

The siphon for water drainage is located in the table, which allows you to think about its functionality and not about appearance. you can choose at your own discretion. They come in the most common types, with an overflow and a closed drain, or with a built-in chopper to cut food waste into small pieces and pour it down the drain.

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Installation of an undermount sink

Today there is a huge variety of all kinds of mortise sinks (built into the countertop in the kitchen). Moreover, they can be made from various materials, have a variety of colors and body shapes. The most affordable, durable and popular type of sink is a stainless steel sink.

How to do it yourself using household power tools made of stainless steel?

We will install the kitchen sink in a countertop made of chipboard covered with plastic - the most common type kitchen countertops. If the countertop is made of another material, for example, artificial stone, then the sink should be embedded into it according to the instructions of the manufacturer of the countertop, if any. If there are no instructions, then any mortise sink can be installed using the principle described below. In addition to mortise sinks, there are overhead sinks that are simply placed on top of the cabinet, but they are used extremely rarely and are considered obsolete.

In order to embed the sink, we need:

  • colorless silicone sealant (plumbing or universal) or gasket;
  • several pieces of 4x30 screws;
  • electric drill with a drill for metal with a 10 mm diameter;
  • a jigsaw with a file for precise cutting of chipboard;
  • ruler, tape measure, pencil, construction corner, sharp knife and number two Phillips screwdriver, brush, unnecessary piece of cloth, rubber spatula.

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Step-by-step cutting of a mounting hole in the countertop

Pledge correct installation This precise marking. At the very beginning, you should decide what the sink will be installed symmetrically to, that is, assign an axis of symmetry. The distance from the rear edge of the tabletop should not be less than 25 mm, and the front edge 50 mm. However, these figures cannot be considered universal. Depending on the features of the sink and the size, the numbers may vary. We draw 2 perpendicular axes on the front side with a pencil, they indicate the center of the bowl, and then we draw the boundaries of the sink (bottom, top, right, left). In several places (for a rectangular sink in the corners of the marking) or in one place (for a round shape), use a 10 mm drill to make a through hole so that the future hole is close to the cut line, but does not touch it (is closer to the central point of the sink).

We start drilling and eventually we get holes (holes) for the jigsaw file to enter.

The initial holes must be drilled from the front side of the tabletop!

Along the cutting line, use a jigsaw to make a closed cut so that the inner part does not fall down (remains in place). Screw self-tapping screws into the gap periodically; they will not act as fasteners for long. To check the correctness of the cut, insert the kitchen sink into the cutout and look: it should fit freely and have a slight play. If the incision is small, then, if necessary, we perform additional trimming with a jigsaw.

After finishing cutting, remove the unnecessary part of the tabletop (inner). Next, you need to clean the sawn part from dust. To do this, take a brush and brush off all the dust. You can also use a vacuum cleaner, making sure to first remove all large pieces of chipboard. After the cleaned cut, it is necessary to cover it with silicone sealant; this is done in order to prevent the tabletop from swelling if water gets inside. Use a rubber spatula small size or finger. Wipe off any remaining sealant with a cloth and wash your finger or spatula. It is also necessary to coat with silicone the chips of plastic that formed when sawing the table top. There is no need to get carried away: there is no point in covering the cut with a thick layer.

The sink comes with a seal made of foamed polyethylene; it needs to be glued along the entire perimeter to the side of the sink. If, after gluing, the seal protrudes beyond the contour of the side (more than 1 mm above it), then it simply needs to be trimmed with a sharp knife. Otherwise, the fasteners will not be able to completely press the surface of the tabletop and the seal.

Next, you need to degrease the contact line of the insulation to the table and the insulation itself. To do this, use a clean rag soaked in gasoline or acetone. Next, take the sealant and apply it in a continuous strip to the insulation.

The type of sink and its location largely determine the convenience of preparing dishes and the comfort of the entire kitchen. It's not only functional item, but also part of the design of the room. Therefore, the choice of a kitchen sink must be approached with all responsibility.

We will help you decide optimal model and we’ll tell you where it’s best to place it. We will also describe how to install a sink in the kitchen without the help of specialists. The installation technology is quite simple; the main thing is to adhere to the rules and requirements outlined in the article.

One of the key aspects in installation is the type of sink, which implies a certain design and fastening device:

  • mortise– installed in a specially prepared slot in the countertop, cut to fit the size of the sink;
  • invoices– inexpensive and easy-to-install models, placed on a free-standing cabinet.

Based on the type of location relative to the countertop, kitchen sinks are divided into table-top, under-table and wall-mounted.

The first is mounted below the level work surface. The latter are installed on hanging brackets and are rarely used due to their low aesthetics.

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It is also worth paying attention to the material from which a particular model is made. The cost of the product and its appearance depend on this.

Most often chosen for the kitchen practical options made of stainless steel, including models with chrome or nickel plating.

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What you will need during the work process

Choosing the optimal sink for kitchen interior, you can begin installation. First you need to stock up on all the necessary tools.

During the installation process you will need:

  • sealant - preferably with a feeding gun;
  • electric drill;
  • mounting knife, screwdriver and adjustable wrench;
  • jigsaw;
  • measuring tools - pencil, ruler and tape measure.

Additionally, you will need several 10-12 drills and a cardboard box.

Procedure for applying markings

So, before us is clean wooden table top, in which you need to cut a niche to fit the size of the sink. We start with markings, determining the center of the sink on the countertop. It is necessary to determine the lines of symmetry in order to position the sink symmetrically with the rest of the furniture in the kitchen.

After this, we draw the outline of the product on the tabletop itself. The contour should have a perimeter that is comparable to the widest part of the sink that is recessed under the countertop.

To create an outline, you can use a cardboard blank, which will serve as a template for applying the outline to the tabletop. This is the most best option which will give high accuracy.

Use a cardboard blank to apply the most accurate outline to the base of the tabletop. Draw with a regular pencil with a highly soft lead.

The cutout should be located at least 5 cm from the front edge of the tabletop and 2.5 cm from the back. These recommended values ​​may vary in practice, but it is best to adhere to them in order to kitchen set has not lost its integrity and strength.

This arrangement of the sink is convenient and practical, since splashes of water do not fly onto the floor, and your back does not get tired while washing dishes.

How to cut a niche?

Next, you need to drill 4 through holes using a drill that matches the size of the jigsaw blade. The holes should be close to the cut line, but not beyond the perimeter. Now, along the line strictly marked with a pencil, cut out a niche from the front side of the tabletop.

During the sawing process, you need to screw several self-tapping screws into the resulting gap from different sides as you cut. This will prevent the inside of the tabletop from falling, which could damage the finish and create long nicks.

To enter the jigsaw we use drilled holes. After complete sawing, the cut out mass will be held on by self-tapping screws. You need to remove the screws one by one, holding the slab from below. The cut must be freed from sawdust by cleaning it sandpaper fine grain.

While the jigsaw is working, insert several screws that will prevent the cut slab from falling. Do not use a jigsaw on maximum speed, otherwise the edges of the tabletop may melt

Now you can do a test dive of the sink into the niche. Please note that the sides of the product must be fairly close to the walls of the cut. A slight play is allowed, since the sink must fit freely into the cutout.

Places that prevent complete immersion must be cut with a jigsaw. You should also think in advance about how the connection to the mixer, the siphon and the tap itself will be placed.

Step-by-step installation of plumbing

First you need to install the complete fasteners, which serve to fix the product. A layer of sealant is applied to the edges of the tabletop (cut) to protect wooden surface from moisture penetration and will prevent the wood from swelling.

To do this, you can use a rubber spatula or spread the adhesive mass with your finger. Chips on the plastic (countertop covering) around the cut are also coated.

Sinks often come with a seal made of foamed polyethylene, which is glued with reverse side sides of the sink.

If, after fixing, the seal protrudes slightly beyond the edges, then it must be carefully trimmed with the sharp end of a mounting knife. If this is not done, the protruding seal will not allow the fasteners to press the sink to the base well enough.

After this, you need to degrease the surface of the tabletop and the sealing polyethylene. We use a rag soaked in acetone or gasoline. A layer of sealant is applied to the seal in a continuous strip, but do not get too carried away with the thickness of the strip.

Plumbing manufacturers often include double sided tape, which serves as an additional gasket between two surfaces, increasing the tightness. It is glued along the edges of the tabletop, and a layer of sealant is applied on top of it.

In practice, they often do without a sealant. A sealant is used as a substitute, which fills the entire space intended for foamed polyethylene.

Attachment to mounting brackets. In some cases, it is sold together with the sink special fasteners. First, self-tapping screws are inserted into the inner walls of the cabinet, onto which the brackets are hung. Then the screws are screwed in ¾. After this, the sink is installed in the opening with mixing on the mounting angle.

During the maneuvering process, you need to ensure that the sink is completely pressed against the cabinet, and the self-tapping screw is fixed in the place where the corner is deepened. Then the screws are tightened until they stop.

Installation of a free-standing sink is somewhat simpler, because... implies in its design the presence of special holes and brackets for fixation

Mounting on wooden bars X. This method used when the previous two are not suitable, for example, due to a defect in the countertop or lack of appropriate connectors on the sink. In this case, you will need 4 wooden blocks and furniture corners. Using these materials you can make an installation platform.

The height of the bars is selected so that the sink is at the same level as the rest kitchen furniture. The bars are cut to the size of the cabinet and fastened on the outside using furniture corners. Homemade design It is installed on the cabinet and screwed with corners with self-tapping screws on the inside to the walls of the underframe.

In the last two methods, you need to take care of tightness. To do this, apply a layer of sealant to the contact points of the cabinet/wooden platform with the sink.

Additional information on installing an overhead sink is presented in.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

This video visualizes the process of installing a sink and will help you see some of the subtleties of the master’s work.

Installation of a mortise model:

Installing a sink is a responsible task on which the functionality of the workspace and reliability depend. Improper installation can lead to rapid destruction of the countertop if water begins to penetrate under the sink.

The main thing in installation is high-quality sealing the joint between the sink and the ends of the kitchen furniture.

If you have experience installing a sink, please share the information with our readers. Leave comments on the article and ask questions. The feedback form is located below.



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