How to close the pipes in the bathroom combined. Water in a box or how to hide pipes in the bathroom. Advantages of different materials

The open placement of water and waste lines is most often perceived as a violation of the overall design of the toilet room, which is usually eliminated by masking the pipes located in it. With particular acuteness, the issue of insulating openly laid pipe lines arises when a common sewer riser is located in the toilet.

In connection with the need to solve this problem, we decided to acquaint all interested parties with how to sew up pipes in the toilet, safely hiding them from the eyes of visitors. In the process of studying information on this topic, it turned out that a variety of building materials can be used to close pipes.

Material selection

• environmental safety (no harmful emissions at high humidity and ambient temperature);
• resistance to corrosion, as well as to its spread to neighboring objects;
• the possibility of arranging a fairly light design that does not clutter up a small room.

When deciding on materials suitable for closing pipes in a toilet, the contractor is usually offered the following options:

• plastic panels,
• mdf panels,
• waterproof plywood,
• drywall (in moisture resistant design).

In addition to the characteristics of the material used, when choosing, its decorative properties should also be taken into account, ensuring a harmonious combination of the skin with the interior of the room itself.

Preparation of the supporting frame and its marking

Installation of the supporting frame structure should begin with measuring the niche in which water and sewer pipes are traditionally placed in communal apartments. To do this, you will have to arm yourself with a tape measure and make accurate measurements of the area where all the highways available in this place are located.

Small doors should be provided in the casing to provide access to water meters and valves.

Upon completion of the measurements, you will be able to draw up a small sketch containing precise instructions for the attachment points of the frame elements, as well as regarding the main dimensions of the future sheathing structure.

Covering with plastic panels

As an example of closing pipes placed in a toilet niche, consider lining it with plastic panels. The indisputable advantages of using plastic materials include the following:

• simplicity and ease of installation, which does not require a lot of time;
• low weight of the structure and the ability to quickly dismantle it;
• high moisture resistance;
• attractive appearance;
• long periods of operation.

Before starting installation work, you should prepare all the materials and tools necessary for this:

• the plastic panels themselves;
• aluminum profiles (guides) necessary for arranging the frame;
• fastening elements of the prefabricated structure (self-tapping screws, screws, dowels or nails);
• perforator;
• mounting knife;
• building level, screwdriver and screwdriver.

Work order

There are two options for mounting panels installed in the toilet:

1. Complete or “deaf” hiding of a niche with pipes by aligning the installation plane of the panels with the wall surface. This finishing method leaves no traces of pipes (with the exception of the doors), which significantly improves the design of the toilet room. But at the same time, its usable area is somewhat reduced.
2. Partial closure of a niche, in which only one pipe is closed with the help of boxes. The advantages of this method include saving the finishing material and reducing the space occupied by the sheathing.

Having decided on the choice of a suitable way to close the niche, you can proceed to marking the places for attaching aluminum guides (profiles). For the subsequent installation of the guides, you should use the previously prepared sketch; at the same time, the fitting of profile blanks along the length is carried out using a hacksaw for metal. The direct fastening of the guides to the walls is carried out with the help of dowel-nails, driven in in increments of 30-40 cm. The sheathing panels themselves are attached to the guides by means of self-tapping screws.

It makes no sense to tightly close a niche with highways that have pronounced defects. This is explained by the fact that at some point in time you still have to completely dismantle the casing and frame for a major overhaul of the pipes.

Video

We offer you to watch a series of videos about the installation of a drywall box in the toilet:

How to close the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels and other ways

The area in the toilet is limited, and the heap of various communications can make an already small space heavier. Moreover, even beautiful tiles will be lost against the background of pipes, and most housewives prefer to hide ugly elements away from the eyes.

The range of various building materials makes it possible to select options for any wallet, and further it will be considered how to close the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels and other materials.

The toilet is a room with a specific microclimate. It is for this reason that before you hide the pipes in the toilet, you should choose the material.

It must meet the following criteria:

Instructions for closing pipes with plastic panels

In fact, hiding plastic pipes behind the panels is not difficult, and the process itself will not take much time, but the look of the room can change dramatically. It's no secret that sewer pipes and plumbing are not some kind of decoration, and against the backdrop of a beautiful tile coating, they look like a foreign object, which will significantly spoil the overall interior. This may be the reason that most people begin to sheathe pipes with different materials, among which plastic panels are the most popular. The drain and water supply network can be made invisible using several methods.

The most common is the false wall. There are other, more complex options, and one of them will be strobes that are laid in the wall. Another way is roller shutters. Quite often, plastic or drywall is used to sew up pipes. At the same time, experts singled out plastic as a more practical material, because during repair work it can be easily removed from the frame. Another advantage is that it is resistant to moisture, i. not afraid of her at all.

To the listed advantages we add the following:

• Light weight design.
• Increasing the level of sound insulation.
• Various options make it possible to choose the material for different interiors of the room.
• Nice price.
• Long time use.

I make panels from polyvinyl chloride, so they are also called lining or PVC panels. In cross section, they differ in their cellular structure. As a rule, the thickness of the lining is no more than 1 ch. The width can be different - from 0.15 to 0.5 meters. The standard length is 3 meters, and the most common size is from 20 to 38 cm. A huge range of colors makes it easy to make a choice for a particular solution.

Note, that for decorative design of the attachment point of the lining around the perimeter or in the docking area and the corner part, moldings of various shapes should be used. They need to be painted white, and then everything will be perfectly combined with various color schemes.

In order to close the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, you do not need many tools, a standard set for wood and metal finishing will be enough. With the help of heat, the panels can be given almost any shape, and they will be perfectly glued and welded. They can sew walls at any angle of inclination. If the box is made and sheathed correctly, then no one will notice the presence of a pipeline in the room.

Note, that, as mentioned above, a wooden beam for a room such as a toilet or bathroom will not be a good choice. Since the room is damp, this will have a negative effect on the tree, and even with the help of protective solutions it will not be possible to achieve the required level of protection.

Modern production offers various profiles made of galvanized steel and fastening elements to them. To be able to hide the pipes in the bathroom or toilet, you will need to use a special profile. Its standard length is from 3 to 4 meters. The transverse dimensions are 2 * 2 cm, but there are more.

Features of the work

Although at first it may seem that it is not difficult to close the pipes with a plastic clapboard, but not all people have a clear idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe work.

This includes:

The pipes will not take up much space, and the size of the structure that will be hidden will depend on where the pipeline is located. It happens that the riser is located in the very corner, and sometimes in the middle. The wiring, which is done horizontally, is most often located close to the floor surface.

• Don't forget about valves, study equipment, etc., as you will need to make hatches for access to them.
• If the pipes are hidden in niches, then it is better to close such places with a false wall, or make a structure in the shape of the letter “L”.
• Horizontally placed pipes should be closed with a rectangular threshold, and in the place of washing, the threshold should be raised to its height, while empty space can be used to equip shelves.

When the materials are thought out, take care of the various building materials as well as the toolkit.

For sheathing you will need:

It should be noted that in such a situation, glue will not be the best option, since the need to disassemble the building may appear at any moment. From a similar point of view, it is more profitable to use self-tapping screws.

Use of plastic panels

Before you start covering the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, you will need to construct a false wall. The setup instructions are as follows:

• Make markings in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor and ceiling. Fastening guide profiles to racks and floor on the walls.
• Rack profiles should be attached to the corner parts of the structure.
• With an indent of 0.5 meters, install profiles that are transverse, otherwise the building will not turn out to be rigid.
• Sheathe the frame.

The process is described in more detail in the video so that even a novice master can cope with the task. Carefully study the information provided, and then you can not only close the ugly pipeline, but also make a beautiful decoration for the room.

Features of marking

To begin with, the contour is applied to the floor. How correctly the corners are observed should be checked with a square. After the strength test is completed, the contour can be transferred to the ceiling. Install the rack profile on the corner parts of the box. Its vertical position should be checked using the building level, and at the same time it is required to put a point on the ceiling surface in order to get a projection of the contour made on the floor.

Note, that for an exact match of the marks on the floor and ceiling, before marking, check how accurately the floor is horizontally located.

How to install the frame

To close the pipes, you should prepare a plastic crate. In this embodiment, panels should be mounted using special clips, but such a frame has a huge drawback, since it has a low level of rigidity. During work, keep an eye on the size of the gap between the frame ribs. When the plastic panels are arranged from the bottom up, then the distance will be from 0.6 to 0.8 meters. When they are located transversely, it may be necessary to install an additional rack.

Note, that we must not forget the fact that after the revision and fittings, you will need to install a window. It will be needed to access the system, and its location is best thought out when building the frame.

Paneling

To cover the sewer pipes, it is necessary to strengthen the panels on the base. A starting molding should be installed against the wall. It is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, and such fasteners will be made through the shelf, which is covered by the next plate. It turns out that the hat of the self-tapping screw will not be noticeable on the plastic sheathing. The protruding part of the next plate should be placed in the groove of the last one and pushed in until it stops. Fix the free part of the panel with self-tapping screws, and according to this principle, you can sheathe each wall at the base.

Install the molding to the outer corner, and in a similar way, you can finish the joints of the structure with the floor and ceiling. Do not forget that the frame should not be closed "tightly". In the upper side of the structure, make a hole for ventilation with a diameter of at least 5 cm. On this, the problem can be considered settled.

plastic box

You can also mask the sewer with a plastic box. This is one of the most popular hiding methods. The process includes the following steps:

Note, that it is impractical to cut a hatch out of plastic, and it is better to purchase a ready-made one. It will be visible, so it should look nice. A sufficiently large model will give full access to all devices that will be placed inside the box.

PVC panel box - advantages and disadvantages

You can close the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, or you can use PVC panels, as this is no less popular way. In addition, the material is inexpensive, and the colors are varied in order to harmoniously fit into the interior of the room.

Panels are popular due to the following characteristics:

1. Quite light and also durable.
2. Will not burden the interior.
3. Plastic is resistant to moisture.
4. If you provide regular care, then there will be no problems with mold.

If we compare the material with other similar ones, then putting the sewer pipe into a PVC box will cost several times cheaper.

How to sew up pipes with drywall

And this material will require additional finishing, and here you can not limit the flight of fancy. Otherwise, drywall has excellent characteristics, since it is easy for them to hide wiring, it is easy to dismantle and mount it. Inserting a plumbing hatch is very simple. The material is environmentally friendly, fireproof and moisture resistant. Further finishing requires the use of tiles, and this is the easiest way to close the riser. The tile will be easy to keep clean.

Several types of boxes can be made from drywall sheets, and each option has its own installation features. So, a blank wall can be used for communications that are behind the toilet. To cover the area, sheets are installed around the entire perimeter of the opening. To begin with, a frame is attached to the screws and dowels, and then the crate, and the final stage will be the installation of drywall sheets.

A square box made of GKL is used in a toilet, where communications are located in a corner or occupy a wall, but partially. To hide the wiring, a metal profile is attached to the floor, ceiling and walls. Further, vertical guides are installed, and before mounting the doors, a window is made of a metal profile. At the end, the system in the toilet can be covered with a sheet of plasterboard.

Instruction:

1. Make markings on the floor, ceiling and walls to create a future frame. Attach awnings to them. You can install profiles on them, and the termination should start from the floor, slowly move towards the ceiling and walls. The next step is to install a remote profile. Attach awnings and profiles with self-tapping screws.
2. When the frame is ready, you can proceed with the installation of drywall. Attach the sheets to the profile strips, and fix with self-tapping screws every 0.2 meters.
3. Close the gaps between the sheets with reinforcing mesh or putty, the former helping to protect the seams from cracking.
4. The sheathing is completed, and it remains to make a couple of openings in the sheets, and then install inspection hatches in them.
5. Additionally, perform processing with putty and make the final lining.

And consider another option.

Roller shutters or blinds

A fairly practical way to close the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, but already in the form of roller shutters or blinds. But he also has not only advantages, but also disadvantages. Below we will consider everything in more detail.

Decorative blinds

Many pipes in a sanitary facility are masked with horizontal or vertical blinds. They will be like curtains that can easily hide from prying eyes an unaesthetic appearance. When required, simply roll them up and access to the pipes will be ready. The main advantages include:

• Space saving.
• Ease and speed of installation without additional construction debris.
• Durability, strength.
• Availability in terms of cost.
• Large selection of patterns and colors.
• If one lamella is damaged, it will not be difficult to replace it, it will not be necessary to throw out the entire structure.

Now let's talk about roller shutters.

roller shutters

It will be much more convenient to close an ugly area in this way, and the design is more reliable and durable. But roller shutters take up more space than blinds, although automatic systems deserve special attention. It will be easy to close an ugly area, in general, the use is uncomplicated. They also come with a remote control. It will be more expensive to hide the pipe in this way, it will take more time, any drawings can be applied to the panel, and everything is done by photo printing. Hide household small things behind the panel.

Important! There are some disadvantages, as the roller shutters in the kit have a special frame. It should be installed around the perimeter of the opening, and ventilation will be required for pipes. For this reason, the structure will not reach the ceiling, which means that it will not be possible to close it completely.

Other materials will be needed to finish the upper part, and various features of lifting mechanisms will need to be taken into account. Likewise with the bottom. Due to plumbing, the shutters will not be able to lower completely, and in order to hide the lower section, you will need to use the second part of the canvas.

On a relatively modest area of ​​​​the toilet, there are always many sewer interchanges. Any technical components do not look aesthetically pleasing and give the impression of an unfinished repair. Therefore, the question often arises of how to hide the pipes in the toilet and give the interior an attractive look.

Where to begin?

Before hiding the pipes in the toilet, you need to carefully inspect the riser and other communications for damage, repair them if necessary. It is necessary to start preparing drawings and calculating the material for the future design after all technical issues have been resolved. For an accurate calculation of raw materials, it is necessary to carefully make all measurements of the area on which the work will be carried out.

Hardware stores offer a wide range of finishes, but whatever you have to work with, you will need the following tools:

• screwdrivers;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• building level and tape measure;

• a saw for plastic or a knife for cutting drywall;
• scissors to cut a metal profile;
• self-tapping screws and fasteners for the profile.

Material selection

If you need to hide communications quickly, PVC panels will be the best choice. This is a cheap and versatile finishing option. The main thing is to choose a color and pattern that will harmoniously fit into the overall picture of the interior.

Plastic panels have several advantages:

• safe for health and the environment;
• installation of panels is not difficult;
• installation is possible in the shortest possible time;
• acceptable price;
• the ability to install a hatch for access to meters or places where a leak may appear;
• the possibility of creating a structure consisting of separate parts;
• no additional finishing required.

And also quickly and inexpensively, you can close the riser with drywall. The toilet does not have as high humidity as the bathroom, but it is better to use a moisture-resistant type of material.

Drywall has all the advantages of panels. Unlike them, this material requires additional finishing. But such a disadvantage can be regarded as a virtue: drywall without finishing can be used for tiles or any other decorative finish. Thus, the wall behind which the pipes are located will be indistinguishable from other walls in the toilet.

Design options

The design that will hide communications is selected depending on several factors:

• the size and nature of the direction of the pipes;
• the location of the pipes relative to each other;
• the presence of auxiliary devices and cranes;
• general environment in the room.

After analyzing these features, it will not be difficult to determine the type of future design. The most common are several popular types.

box

It is a simple design that even a beginner can handle. The frame is created from a metal profile or wooden slats. Next, the base is sheathed with the material that was chosen. Full or partial sheathing is possible, depending on the availability of metering devices or taps near the riser. In this case, you must leave the window so that you can access them.

The frame of the box can be sheathed with PVC panels, moisture-resistant plywood or drywall. Drywall is usually decorated with the same materials as the main walls. There are ready-made options for the box. But this option may be more expensive. Making the box yourself, it is possible to immediately take into account all the nuances. While the finished box will have to be customized to the desired parameters.

The design of the box is represented by several configurations.

• false wall. A good solution to hide several pipes located nearby at once. It looks aesthetically pleasing, but takes up a lot of space.
• Square. It can be placed both vertically and horizontally, hiding the fan pipe. Suitable for rooms in which pipes are located in the corner.
• Oblique false wall. The middle option between the previous ones. The design is attached at an acute angle to the side or rear wall. Just like a false wall, it allows you to hide several pipes, but saves a lot of space.
• Multilevel. It is installed in the case of a chaotic arrangement of pipes in the toilet. To save space, boxes are created in places where communications are located.

Built-in sanitary cabinet

The design with doors on the wall behind the toilet is called a sanitary cabinet.

Using this method of masking, several problems are solved at once.

• An additional niche for shelves appears, on which cleaning products and accessories can be stored.
• The presence of doors does not impede access to meters, filters, manifolds and pipelines.
• In the event of a pipe break, the cabinet will not impede access to the accident site. Replacing metering devices in a toilet with a sanitary cabinet will not be inconvenient.

The choice of material for the manufacture of doors is quite large. Plywood, PVC panels, chipboard, metal, wooden or glass doors are especially popular. You need to choose a material that fits into the overall style of the interior. For example, in a toilet decorated with plastic, plastic doors would be appropriate. And for a country wooden house, wooden doors are suitable.

Do not forget about the convenience of the location of the doors in the locker. They must be located at a suitable height so as not to obstruct access to the desired junctions. Handles on the doors should also be suitable.

The installation of swing doors in a sanitary cabinet takes place, like any other doors, they are fixed on hinges to the base. Ordinary doors are suitable for a spacious toilet. Closer rooms are best equipped with compact accordion doors, sliding models or curtains.

Concealed installation - chasing

Chasing is an alternative to decorative types of pipe masking. With hidden wiring, it is supposed to sew parts in specially punched ditches, which are called strobes. Such technological holes are made using a wall chaser or puncher. Pipes hidden in the floor screed also belong to the hidden laying. In this case, the wiring is poured with a concrete solution.

The main advantage of this type of disguise is aesthetics. Communications are completely hidden in the wall. With the exception of the riser, the diameter of which is too large and cannot be embedded in the wall. The advantages include the complete safety of pipes, their damage during hidden installation is impossible. Significant space savings is also a plus.

The weak side of the method is the laboriousness, cost and inaccessibility of pipes. You can sew up the pipes yourself, but you will have to study a lot of literature in order to get it right. The use of hidden installation is not possible everywhere. The method will be good in private houses built of brick or solid blocks, as well as in multi-storey buildings with walls of increased thickness. In other places, this method will run counter to SNIPs. Gates significantly weaken the load-bearing walls, which are already heavily loaded.

Some requirements can significantly complicate the installation:

• only one-piece pipes can be sewn up, others need free access;
• in the wall on which the work will be carried out, electrical wires should not pass;
• it is necessary to take into account the linear expansion of the pipe material;
• you have to use clamps in order to have good sound insulation.

We hide beautifully

It is not always convenient to close pipes with auxiliary materials. In some cases, there is not enough space for complex structures, or the time for repairs in the toilet may be limited. Sometimes pipes are easy enough to decorate when we close communications with a partition, access to them is difficult, and this can be inconvenient.

Outdoor placement of communications

Pipes can be left in plain sight and not decorated, if they look beautiful on their own. For example, metal communications in combination with sanitary ware from the same material are perfectly combined and fit into the interior of a loft, techno or high-tech style restroom. In a toilet with such an environment, they will become a source of pride. But such pipes are expensive, in addition, there is a chance of getting burned.

Therefore, you can beautifully beat ordinary communications:

• cover with paint that matches the overall color scheme of the toilet;
• decorate with unusual patterns, while you can use special stencils;
• sheathe with beautiful pebbles, braid, glass;
• disguise with artificial plants or make the pipes themselves in the form of trees: the toilet will resemble an impenetrable jungle or dense forest;
• glue the pipes with various stickers or stickers;
• if you show imagination, you can use a material that is usually recycled, for example, metal caps from carbonated drinks, and in addition to the unusual design of pipes, it would be appropriate to make a small panel of the same material.

Decorating pipes is a convenient way to hide communications. All parts of communications are in plain sight, you can always check their condition and, if necessary, repair or replace.

Blinds

Disguise thus resembles a false wall. But not a wall is created, but a curtain. It can be rolled up if necessary.

Blinds Benefits:

• closing pipes in this way saves a lot of time;
• during installation, a lot of garbage is not created;
• long service life of blinds;
• the price is small;
• the niche formed behind the blinds is convenient to use for storage;

• the design is compact both in open and closed form, it will not interfere, however, open blinds provide full access to counters and taps;
• the choice of material is very large: from inexpensive and versatile plastic to expensive and specific wood and metal, but due to high humidity, fabric options are not recommended for use in the toilet;
• the assortment is replete with a variety of colors and patterns, it will not be difficult to choose the right ones;
• in case of damage or loss of appearance, there is no need to replace the entire structure, it will be enough to replace the damaged lamellas;
• they can replace the screen under the bathtub or become a partition covering the washing machine if it is located in a niche.

Hidden pipes in the toilet - a necessity or a tribute to the construction fashion?

An unambiguous answer cannot be given. On the one hand, the absence of open pipelines is a more aesthetic appearance of the room, increased sound insulation and, finally, a higher degree of hygiene. On the other hand, difficult access for taking readings from water meters or carrying out repairs.

Modern technologies help to formulate such an answer: "Hidden pipes are a necessary tribute to the building fashion."

There is a very common opinion that it does not make sense to “mask” the pipelines in the toilet until the pipes are completely replaced with plastic or metal-plastic. However, this is not quite true. Firstly, hidden pipelines will significantly improve the visual perception of the room.

Secondly, they will greatly facilitate the process of cleaning the toilet, especially capital. And thirdly, the use of components such as plastic, the role of shutters or blinds will allow you to quickly dismantle the shelter structure or simply provide unhindered access to the pipes.

Existing plumbing and sewer products made of plastic theoretically allow them to be buried forever in the thickness of the walls. But this option is suitable for linear sections of water-bearing communications.

Access to water metering units, shut-off valves and revisions is required. And preferably comfortable. The ergonomics of such access is equally dependent on both plumbers and installers hiding pipes.

The designs of systems for concealing pipelines in the toilet can be divided into four subgroups:

1. Frame. These include structures assembled on a metal frame, or wooden slats and timber. Further cladding is made with GKL, PVC panels or DSP boards.
2. Mounted. They are made-to-measure roller shutters or horizontal blinds fixed to the ceiling.
3. Combined. In this case, part of the protection is assembled on a frame, and part is a lifting system in the form of roller shutters or blinds.
4. Finished construction. This is usually a one-piece array, mounted as an assembly. A typical example is a metal-plastic frame with a window for access to the water meter assembly. Filling - sandwich panel.

Frame types of pipe shelters differ in the form of assembly and types of finishing.

Forms of installation of frame systems for "masking" pipelines

1. Solid barrier. It is a wall, assembled along the far or side walls of the toilet room. A distinctive feature of such a false panel from a conventional partition is the presence of a frame sheathing only from the visible part. An undoubted advantage of this design will be the possibility of the same type of finishing of the entire toilet - plastic panels, ceramic tiles, washable wallpaper, fiberboard panels, etc. The disadvantages are the impossibility of carrying out plumbing work behind a false wall and a rather significant decrease in the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet. Basically, the footage is compressed due to the unsuccessful location of pipelines, mainly sewer risers. As a result, you have to change the location of the toilet bowl - push it to the front door or move it to the side.
2. Corner partition. The principle of the device of an oblique false wall is the same as that of a solid partition. Only it does not close the wall, but the place where the walls of the room meet. Behind the corner structure it is convenient to place pipelines located in the corner. Ideal when the back of the frame touches the pipes farthest from the walls of the toilet room. However, if the sewer riser and plumbing are mounted at some distance from the corner of the toilet, then an oblique false wall can take up an unreasonably large area. In addition, uneven inner corners can significantly complicate the interior decoration of the toilet room. This can be especially true when lining walls with PVC panels.
3. Rectangular box. They are used to "mask" both vertical risers and horizontal sections of pipelines. The frame is mounted close to the existing pipes. Unlike false walls that completely cover a wall or corner, boxes cover only segments of the wall space. The horizontal sections sewn in this way can be used as shelves. Some difficulties can be caused by sewing hot water risers with heated towel rails. This is due to the features of the possible replacement of the heating device.
4. Multilevel boxes. This is a kind of symbiosis of walls, false panels and boxes. The boxes perform the function of "protection" of pipelines. They are mounted close to the pipes, and at the same time, as far as possible from the plane of the walls. The design in rectangular reflection repeats the relief of the indentation of pipelines from walls or false panels. Such stepped boxes save usable area as much as possible. An interesting option is to create multi-level structures with niches. The back side of the recess is the existing walls, the protruding plane is the outer part of the boxes. But such systems are relevant for toilet rooms of rather large dimensions. Frame facing material - plastic or drywall.

Hinged systems for concealing pipelines

1. Blinds. This "disguise" is more of a decorative character. But it will absolutely not interfere with the repair work. The installation location is often limited to the rear wall of the toilet room. With a lateral arrangement of pipes relative to the entrance, the installation of blinds simply does not make sense. Cross plates made of aluminum are preferable to plastic lamellas. Standard powder-coated colors allow you to visually connect the blinds with the materials of the toilet room wall decoration without transitions that cut your eyes.
2. Roller shutters. Roleta quite organically fit into the interior of the toilet room. Are made only under the order. There are no standard sizes. Separate roller shutters usually close the rear wall of the toilet. When mounting on the side, you can not do without boxes assembled from drywall. In this case, the issue of the device of the revision hatch is eliminated. If the size of the installed shutters corresponds to the dimensions of the linear projection of the pipelines, then no problems are expected during plumbing work.

Sound insulation of pipelines behind the boxes

This event is relevant only for multi-apartment high-rise buildings. The noise of the "waterfall", coming from behind decorative boxes and false panels in the toilet, rarely brings joyful feelings. Especially such discomfort is created by sewer risers.

Mineral wool will help solve this problem. Moreover, it is necessary to isolate not the plane of the partition, but the pipelines. Noise from pipes wrapped with glass wool becomes an order of magnitude lower.

Installation of duct frames and false walls

1. Metal carcass. It is made at the installation site from metal profile pipes by welding. The main frame is attached to the walls, floor and ceiling with anchors. The thickness of the metal is not more than 1.5 mm, which will make it possible to fasten the skin with ordinary self-tapping screws with a drill. Cladding material - DSP boards. Such a powerful design is designed to hang and hold heavy pieces of furniture or equipment on it. Typical examples are a cabinet for storing preservation for the winter or an electric water heater with a capacity of 100 liters or more. The complexity of the installation work and the cost of materials make such a frame a rather expensive structure.
2. Frame made of CD and UD profiles for drywall systems. The very name of the materials for the manufacture of the structure says that it is intended for gypsum boards. But, in addition to drywall sheets for sheathing, PVC panels can be used. For drywall, the usual installation scheme is used - a grid with a mesh size of 600 by 600 mm. But plastic will require horizontal fastening of CD-slats every 500 mm. GKL is fastened with self-tapping screws for metal, plastic - with a press washer. The biggest plus of this design is the speed and accuracy of installation.
3. Frame made of wooden beams and slats. The most economical version of the frame "camouflage". PVC panels, drywall, fiberboard, and OSB boards can serve as cladding material. But the cheapest is almost always not the best. A structure assembled from wood in rooms with high humidity is very susceptible to the risk of deformation. Therefore, further tiling cannot be carried out. And the rest of the materials on curved racks will lose all attractiveness.

Materials for sheathing systems for covering pipelines

Building components for frame cladding are divided into two categories:

1. Materials suitable for use immediately after installation work. These include:
   • PVC panels. Lightweight and beautiful material that has proven itself when decorating rooms with high humidity. Seamless versions of plastic panels give the impression of solidity of the assembled planes. Plastic is very easy to work with. An extensive range of colors and a variety of textures of products can satisfy the most picky tastes. The disadvantage is excessive fragility.
   • Chipboard boards. Such a furniture component gives a certain comfort to the toilet room. Especially if the finish of the box is made in the same style as the front door. In addition, laminated chipboards can be mounted as part of a wall cabinet with opening or sliding doors. It is quite appropriate to use mirrors. The downside is the high cost of the project.
   • Wooden lining. Wood is always in fashion. But it is very difficult to harmoniously combine wooden parts with tiles or plastic. But to completely sheathe the toilet room with clapboard may not allow the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
2. Sheet materials are the basis of future finishing.
   • CSP boards. Reliable, but very heavy material, even if you use sheets with a thickness of 8 mm. Cut to size with an angle grinder. Absolutely not afraid of water. Particular difficulties may arise when constructing an inspection hatch.
   • Plasterboard sheets. For sheathing the shelter frames, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Drywall has proven itself in the construction market. Very easy to process. Does not lose its properties under various finishing materials - primers, putties, decorative plasters and ceramic tiles. The main drawback loses its structure under the influence of water. Well, cases of flooding of bathrooms in multi-storey buildings are well known.

Finishing boxes

There are several options for finishing the finishing touches in the process of covering the pipes in the toilet. Here are the most common ones:

1. Ceramic tile. An old and yet modern way of finishing fragments of toilet rooms. A solid "experience of operation" of tiles is the best argument in favor of ceramics. The advantages are visible to the naked eye - ergonomics, durability, aesthetics, etc. etc. In the case of boxes, there is only one technical difficulty - the device of an inspection hatch, which looked organic and would be functionally convenient.
2. Textured plaster. The embossed surface of such a decorative coating may require more frequent and thorough maintenance of the raised panels. But there is a big plus - the plasterer is devoid of linear dimensions and quite easily hides minor installation errors.

1. Use as a screen to "mask" the remnants of cabinet furniture. Any used chipboard (wardrobe wall, countertop) will perform the same role as custom-made ones.
2. Temporary false walls can be fastened to ordinary mounting foam. The false panels do not bear special loads, therefore, the main thing is to fix them during the foam solidification.
3. The role of the inspection door can be successfully performed by a removable ventilation grille.

Plastic panels are becoming more and more popular due to the combination of their positive qualities that suit most consumers. These include aesthetic appearance, a variety of colors and patterns, the possibility of easy cleaning, practicality and affordable cost. This type of finish is especially well suited for areas requiring strict sanitary standards, such as bathrooms and toilets. In addition to bathrooms, PVC panels are also used to decorate the walls and ceilings of hallways, as well as balconies and loggias.

Finishing the toilet with plastic panels is the best option for those apartment owners who are starting repairs, but at the same time are faced with a limited "budget". There is a double benefit here: in addition to the fact that the material belongs to the public price category, its installation can be done on its own. The absence of the need for additional costs for inviting craftsmen is also an important advantage of plastic panels over other types of finishes.

How to choose high-quality plastic panels?

Due to the fact that this finishing material is in great demand, it is on sale in a wide variety. At the same time, both high-quality products and products of not particularly conscientious manufacturers can be present in the assortment of stores. Just looking at the plastic panels "with the naked eye", it is quite difficult to determine their quality, therefore, when choosing this material, it is recommended to follow some tips. They will allow you to choose a material that will meet the declared characteristics and service life.

• The material used for the manufacture of finishing panels must contain additives that improve the elasticity of products. Thanks to them, the panels are relatively easy to bend and it is quite difficult to accidentally damage them with a careless movement. If the plastic is brittle and loses its strength and shape when pressed or with a slight impact, then these are poor-quality panels. They will not last long, and the finished walls will quickly lose their respectable appearance during operation.

- Try pressing on the edge of the panel by grabbing it with two fingers. Internal stiffeners must not bend or deform, and visible dents are not allowed on the surface.

A high-quality panel, when squeezed with your fingers, should not bend, and the internal stiffeners should not deform

- It is necessary to try to bend the mounting strip of plastic located along the edge of the panel and forming a docking lock. The material is not something that should not break off - in high-quality panels, this strip should return to its original state, without leaving a trace along the bend line.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

- It is necessary to carefully examine the outer plane of the panel. Through the top layer of plastic, internal stiffeners should not be visible or protrude, that is, the surface should be smooth and uniform.

• Plastic should not emit unpleasant chemical odors. If they are present, then it is better to refuse such panels immediately. For sure, the manufacturer, in order to minimize the cost of production, used low-quality raw materials or violates the established production technology. During operation, such a finish will emit fumes that are harmful to the health of residents of an apartment or house. Such panels, without any doubt, should be attributed to low-quality products.
• PVC panels are produced in various widths. For a small toilet room, it is unprofitable to purchase panels that are too wide, as there will be a lot of waste. However, a lot depends on the specific dimensions of both the panels themselves and the toilet, on the need to install a decorative box to hide communications, and on other specific conditions. If the owner has a spatial imagination, then he will be able to imagine in advance what width of the panels will be optimal.

• When choosing a finishing material, it is recommended, without any hesitation, to request a certificate from the seller, in which the manufacturer is indicated and the compliance of the panels with all technical, sanitary and fire safety standards is noted. If the outlet staff cannot or refuses to provide certification documentation for the products sold, then the best solution would be to contact another hardware store.

Preparation for finishing work

In order for the work on finishing the toilet room to be successful, it is necessary to carefully prepare for it. Before carrying out the installation itself, it will be necessary to take measurements and purchase the necessary materials, prepare the necessary tools, and perform some measures for processing wall surfaces.

Taking measurements and purchasing materials

The first step is to measure the space. The goal is to determine the area of ​​the surfaces to be trimmed, the amount of finishing material. It is very important to immediately calculate the number of fitting profiles that will be required:

— for registration of internal and external corners;

- for finishing the junctions of plastic lining to the flow line and the floor;

- for mounting cabinets, doors, inspection windows - if it is intended by the finishing plan.

The choice of these profile elements will depend on the design idea, the size of the room, as well as the technique of installing panels in certain areas.

The finishing material itself, that is, plastic panels, is recommended to be purchased 15% more than the measurements of the area showed - some will definitely go into scraps, and in addition, the possibility of accidental damage or incorrect cut cannot be ruled out, especially if there is insufficient experience in carrying out such work.

• You will need material for mounting the crate. Since the toilet usually has a small area, the owners have to save every centimeter. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a metal profile or wooden slats for the frame with a cross-sectional size of 20 × 50 mm. The number of rails is easy to calculate in place, based on the height and width of the walls, bearing in mind that the guide battens should be located in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition, the elements of the crate are calculated separately for the decorative box that hides the pipes (if it is conceived), as well as for the ceiling frame (if paneling is planned there as well).

To fix the beam on the wall, you will need dowels with such a length that they enter the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm. Their number is also determined by the step with which the guide crates will be fixed with their help. Usually it is 450÷500 mm.

• To fix the plastic panels on the frame, you need to prepare self-tapping screws 15 ÷ 20 mm long (depending on the type of crate - for wood or metal). When installing panels on wooden slats, a construction stapler with staples 10 ÷ 12 mm is often used.
• In the case when the walls are perfectly even (which is extremely rare even in panel houses), you can save space and do without crates at all. Panels in such conditions can be glued directly to the surface of the walls. For such installation, glue such as "liquid nails" or even one of the tile adhesives is used.
• If a wooden crate is used, then it will not be out of place to purchase a tool for pre-treatment of structural parts, which will protect them from decay.
• You will need a primer for the ceiling and walls of the toilet. It will increase the strength of the finished surfaces, reduce the likelihood of mold colonies or insect nests in the closed space between the main wall (floor) and the finishing material.

Assembly tools

To perform preparatory and finishing work, you will need to prepare a certain set of tools.

• with a set of bits.
• Hammer drill or electric drill with punching function.
• Drills for wood and concrete of different diameters.
• Electric or manual jigsaw.
• Scissors for metal, if a metal profile will be used in the design.
• A hammer.
• Construction (stationery) knife.
• Roulette and construction square.
• Pencil and marker for marking.
• Construction stapler.
• Building level with vertical and horizontal pointer.
• For the preparation of wall surfaces, you may need spatulas, a building hair dryer, a roller and a brush for applying a primer.

When everything you need for work is ready, you can proceed to preparing the room for the installation process.

Preparing room surfaces for finishing

The preparation of the surfaces of the toilet room for finishing with plastic panels is as follows:

• So that under the finishing material, in an enclosed space, a favorable environment for the appearance of insects and mold spots is not created, it is recommended (if any) and exfoliated paint. A metal spatula is used for cleaning.

If it is necessary to free the walls from the wallpaper, and they are securely fixed to the surface, then it is recommended to apply warm water to them with a roller, and this must be done several times. In those areas where the wallpaper begins to warp from moisture, you can begin to remove them.

• It is not necessary to completely remove the paint, the main thing is to remove it in those areas where it has peeled off the wall surface.
• Further, the marking of the cleaned walls is carried out and at the same time the number and height or length of the lathing laths are determined. Here it is necessary to clarify that if the lining panels are planned to be installed vertically, then the beam under it is fixed horizontally at a distance of 600 mm from each other. In the case of a horizontal installation of the finishing material, the frame guides are fixed vertically to the wall. Necessarily, the details of the crate must be installed at the bottom of the wall, 20 ÷ 30 mm from the floor and along the upper part of the wall along the line of fixing the crate under the ceiling sheathing or at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

• If the crate will be mounted from wood, then the frame slats are prepared as the next step. They are cut to size and then processed, and all surfaces must be processed, including the end sides, that is, slices. After applying the composition, they must be left to dry completely. This work is best done on the balcony, where there is air access, and the space is somewhat larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet.

• While the wooden frame elements are drying on the balcony, you can do antiseptic treatment of the walls and ceiling of the toilet. Priming is carried out using a roller with a fluffy nozzle or a wide brush. In hard-to-reach places, a narrower brush may be required.

The primer absorbs and dries quickly enough, within a few hours, so there will be enough time to apply two layers of this composition to guarantee and wait for them to dry completely.

primer prices

primer

• The primer can be transparent or opaque. If a thick white composition is chosen, then the marking of the walls should be done after the treated surfaces have dried.
• If during the repair it is planned to replace the toilet bowl, then it is more expedient to dismantle the old one before fixing the crate.

Wall cladding with plastic panels

When the site for further installation is completely ready, and the marking lines are clearly visible on it, you can proceed first to fixing the crate, and then to the finishing material itself.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	In the first step, the guides are always fixed to flat sections of the walls, and only after that vertical and horizontal frames are built around the areas of communications, as well as protruding corners. In the slats (bar), at a distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other, using an electric drill and a wood drill, holes are drilled through which the frame elements will be fixed to the wall. The holes must have a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the dowel.
	Further, a beam with holes is applied to the line marked on the wall, and through a hole located approximately in the middle of the guide (along the length), a drill with a drill for concrete marks the place of attachment. Then the beam is removed, and the hole is deepened to the length of the dowel.
	After that, the timber is attached back to the wall and a dowel with a screw installed in it is driven through it into the hole in the wall. First, only one fastener is driven in so that the beam can be leveled.
	Next, the beam is leveled at the building level and the remaining attachment points to the wall are outlined, the corresponding holes are drilled, and dowels are hammered into them. Similarly, on flat sections of the wall, all load-bearing elements of the crate are fixed.
	If distortions are found during marking on the wall surface, then the crate is leveled with the help of additional linings installed between the beam and the wall.
	Quite often in the layout of old houses in the bathrooms in the upper part of the wall there is a window for natural light. If it is not planned to use this opening as a niche-shelf, then the frame parts (platbands) are dismantled from it, and frame guides can be fixed on the wave frame with self-tapping screws.
	This illustration shows well how the guide rails should be fixed to the even walls of this small room.
	Probably, in order not to violate the demonstration of the sequence of work, we should briefly consider the dismantling and laying of ceramic floor tiles. So, after fixing the elements of the crate, the old coating is removed from the floor. To do this, you can use a puncher with a specific nozzle in the form of a chisel. Together with the tile, the solution on which it was laid is also removed. After cleaning construction debris from the floor, the surface must be cleaned as much as possible from various protrusions. If necessary, the floor is leveled with a self-leveling compound.
	The next step is to erect a crate for a decorative box around a vertically passing sewer riser, as well as a sewer pipe running along the back wall of the toilet. This frame element can be made in different ways. In the illustration shown, it is made of short pieces of timber, connected at right angles, and fixed on straight sections of the walls of the crate.
	The frame of the decorative box can also be erected from a metal profile. Vertical racks are installed and rigidly fastened together by horizontal jumpers. The design is displayed in the form of a communication unit, consisting of a sewer and water riser.
	Jumpers are made from the same metal profile, fixed from the inside of the frame. The frame of the box is mounted and screwed to the bar fixed on the wall using self-tapping screws.
	This version of the box frame, built from a vertical beam, which is fastened together by horizontal lintels and connected to a crate fixed on the wall, is a more rigid and reliable structure. In addition, it will be more comfortable to fix the finishing material on wooden guides.
	This version of the box is especially convenient if pipes also run along the side wall, and meters for hot and cold water are mounted in them. The horizontal crate is connected to the beam on the wall and the frame of the vertical box using self-tapping screws, and if necessary, for greater rigidity, also using metal corners.
	Another version of the design of the box from a metal profile and timber. In this case, the beam is a material that stiffens the frame, and the metal profile is more plastic than wood. It can be cut and constructed from it into a more compact box by slightly cutting off the corner. This is especially true when connections are required at angles other than right.
	The illustration shows what this version of the box frame looks like without decorative panels. This design is well suited for sheathing, in which a fitting corner will not be used - the panel will smoothly go around the horizontally installed elements of the metal crate.
	A horizontal box-shaped frame structure along the back wall of the room, above the sewer pipe, is best done together with the entire crate. However, some craftsmen work on their own installation system and prefer to install it after the finishing material has already been fixed to the main frame.
	This frame is made of a wooden beam, necessarily treated with antiseptic impregnation. The front vertical side of this frame is a frame on which the decorative trim will be fixed.
	Another version of the frame, which is made of a metal profile. It can be called more acceptable in this case, since the structure will be located near pipes and plumbing fixtures, on which condensation moisture can appear during temperature changes. However, it should be remembered that it is more convenient to mount the panels on wooden bars, so wooden slats are often screwed on top of the metal.
	When the floor area is prepared and limited by the horizontal and the base of the vertical frame, you can move on to tiling the surface. The first step is to try on the central row of tiles - it should be placed strictly in the center of the room, at the same distance from the walls.
	Using a marker, guide lines are drawn along the edges of the laid out tiles, along which the finishing material will be laid.
	Further, according to the marking made, the tile is laid on the tile adhesive. To maintain a single width of the seams, special plastic calibration crosses are used.
	When laying out a tiled floor, its surface must be constantly monitored by a building level so that it remains in a horizontal plane. The illustration shows a finished, tiled floor surface with grouted tile joints. The floor is over - you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels.
	Now, before starting installation, the panels are adjusted in length and width, according to the location of the middle border and its pattern (if any).
	It is more difficult to match panels with individual fragments of a pattern, the parts of which are located on different panels and, when joined, are assembled into a whole element. In order for the finish to look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to accurately combine the floral or geometric ornament, as well as the border lines.
	Installation of trim on the crate can be carried out using fitting corner profiles or without their use. Starting guides are mandatory in any case, since without them the general appearance of the finish will look sloppy. Plastic profiles are fixed to the crate beam using stapler brackets. Fixation is carried out in increments of 150÷200 mm.
	Profiles are produced only in white, so they are not suitable for all colors of the finishing material, and therefore some craftsmen prefer to do without them in some cases. This photo shows the option of joining two panels in the corner of the room, which are perfectly matched to each other without the use of corners.
	If a decision is made to abandon the corner profiles, then the first panel, which is installed on the frame crate of the box, is first fixed on “liquid nails”, and then screwed on with 15 ÷ 20 mm self-tapping screws with wide caps.
	Installation of panels starts from the corner of the room, and the verticality of the first panel in a row, before its final fixing, is carefully verified according to the building level. Therefore, first the self-tapping screw is screwed into the crate beam in the middle part of the panel height, and the edge is leveled. Well, then the panel is finally fixed to the rest of the elements of the crate. The evenness and accuracy of the entire wall cladding will depend on the correct installation of the first panel. If the panels are installed unevenly, then the existing pattern on their surfaces may not match.
	If one of the walls has a completely flat surface, and the panels will be mounted on it without a crate, then they can be glued on “liquid nails” or on cement-based tile adhesive.
	"Liquid" nails are applied to the wall in strips 10 ÷ 15 mm thick. If tile adhesive is used, it is spread with a notched trowel with a comb height of 5 mm over the entire surface under the panel.
	If the whole panel falls on the junction of the lathing areas that make up different planes, then it is first joined to the previously fixed panel without fixation, and then the cut line is measured in place. This process must be done in this way because the outer corner may not be even enough. It happens that after cutting exactly along the measured lines of the excess part of the panel (without a real fit “in place”, focusing solely on the results of linear measurements), its edge in one place may coincide with the corner protrusion, but not in another, so it will be damaged. After cutting out the excess fragment, the panel is fixed to the crate.
	The outer corner can be closed with a regular corner, which is glued to the "liquid nails". Another option - it is masked by the so-called outer corner molding, which has special grooves. Glue is applied to their inner surfaces, and then the edges of the joined panels are inserted into the grooves.
	The pipes located on the side walls are closed with short sections of panels. Often, craftsmen prefer to close them with sliding doors, which will be discussed later.
	If water meters are installed on one of the side walls, then it is impossible to close them completely, so the craftsmen resort to two options - this is either a small window with an opening door, or sliding panels. The second method is more practical, as it allows you to control the entire space, and in the event of an emergency, it can be eliminated without disassembling the entire structure.
	Sliding doors (there may be two or more) are made from ordinary panels. They are installed in profiles fixed along the top and bottom of the opening with two or three guide channels (grooves). The type of profile, of course, will depend on the number of doors, since each of them must have its own space for free circulation.
	For the convenience of moving such doors, ordinary internal plastic door handles are installed in them, which are carefully glued into the cut hole.
	A decorative box located behind the toilet, along the back wall, also needs to be sheathed with plastic lining panels of the desired length. To make the finish look neat, it is glued to the lower beam of the front frame, and then the starting molding is fixed with a stapler and staples.
	The next step is to cut out a cover for this box from the panel, try it on, determine the location of the outlet of the water connection hose to the drain tank, and cut a hole for it. Then glue "liquid" nails is applied to the beam, and the top panel of the decorative box is glued. In this case, a flexible liner (hose) for the drain tank must first be installed and “packed”, and threaded through the opening of the cover.
	Further, the necessary fragments are cut out of the panels for facing the front side of the box. This part is assembled into a single canvas, tried on in place, and then a hole is marked on it for the exit of the sewer pipe pipe to be connected to the toilet. After that, a cut is made in the middle of one or along the edges of two panels. In addition, a window is marked, which allows monitoring the condition of the pipes passing inside the box. From the extreme left or right panel, the protruding edge of the lock is cut off so that it fits closely with the main wall decoration.
	In the next step, the panels are installed in the starting bottom bar, screwed to the wooden elements of the box. The junction of the horizontal and vertical panels is covered with a decorative corner, which is glued to the "liquid" nails. After that, a finished frame with a door is glued into the hole.
	Separately, it should be said about the design of the vertical box using a wide 500 mm panel, since in this case auxiliary corners are not required, and the design will look elegant. In order to see the necessary cutouts in the panel, which are made on its reverse side, this illustration, as an example, shows a small segment of it installed on the racks of the metal frame of the box.
	In order for this finishing option to look neat, exact dimensions are taken from the sides of the box, that is, their width is measured. Then these parameters are transferred to the back side of the panel. The marking points will be the middle of the cut strip. From the marked points, 15 mm are measured on both sides, that is, the distance for bending should be three channels between the ribs located inside the panel.
	After marking, lines are drawn along the entire length of the panel, along which cuts are made using a clerical knife. Only the back side of the panel is cut, and the front remains intact. After that, along with the ribs, the cut-out strip is completely removed, while 3÷4 mm of ribs are left on the reverse side of the front panel. This work is not very convenient to carry out, but it must be done very carefully, without damaging the front surface of the panel.
	After such cutouts are made, the panel will easily bend along the marked lines. After fixing it on the frame of the box, you will get a neat finish without joints and corners.
	Moreover, in this option, all the corners of the box will be rounded, which will also add elegance to the interior design, especially if high quality panels are selected.
	Another point that also needs to be clarified. If a shelf is mounted near the vertical box shown above, mounted on top of the masking tube of the rear box structure, then in order for the cutout to be done neatly, an exact template of a smooth corner rotation is first adjusted from the paper. Then the template is laid on the panel from which the box cover will be cut, outlined, after which the necessary cutout is made along this line.
	Next, it is necessary to briefly consider the installation of the frame and the arrangement of the ceiling sheathing with decorative panels. This work can be carried out during the installation of the main wall frame, or after the wall surface has been covered with plastic panels. The crate can be fixed directly to the main ceiling or to the walls in the form of a frame. In the latter case, the beam, fixed to the walls, will become the basis of the false ceiling.
	The beam is mounted in the same way as the elements of the crate for wall cladding. It is fixed along the upper line of decorative wall decoration.
	In a toilet room, common for city apartments, a similar design may look like this illustration.
	The next step is to apply “liquid” nails to the lower part of the beam, on which the starting profile is glued, into which the sheathing panels will be installed. The starting profile is fixed on three walls of the room - on the side walls and on the one from which the installation of the panels will begin. This can be both the back wall and the one in which the front door is located.
	The glued profile is additionally fixed to the timber using a stapler and staples, which are installed at a distance of 150÷200 mm from each other.
	When the frame for the ceiling is ready, you can begin to prepare and install the ceiling panels. First, they are marked and cut into the desired size.
	The edge of the first panel (mounting spike) is cut off so that the panel fits snugly, over its entire thickness, into the starting profile. The panel is installed with the ends into the side profiles, and the side with the cut spike - into the one that is fixed on the rear (or front) wall.
	The installed panel is screwed to the lathing bars with wide-headed screws.
	You need to immediately decide on the location of the recessed fixtures, since it is much more convenient to install them at a time when the ceiling is not yet completely covered with cladding.
	In order to make holes in the ceiling lining for installing spotlights, a crown drill is used, having a diameter corresponding to the size of their legs. For a small toilet room, one or two lamps will be enough. If its area is large enough, then three or four lighting elements are installed.
	Before installing the luminaires in the sockets cut out in the panels, they are connected to the power supply cable.
	Lighting devices are installed in the holes of the plastic trim, and then assembled into a single circuit. Connection to the power supply should be made only after the installation of the entire finish has been completed.
	The problem is always the installation of the last panel in the finish. Each master chooses his own way of its installation. In this case, it is proposed to make it across the width of the already remaining distance - by 10 ÷ 15 mm. Then, on the edge, which will be fixed on the frame beam, the starting profile is put on. Glue "liquid nails" is applied to the timber. After that, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous cladding element, and the ends are inserted into the grooves of the side starting profiles. Well, the molding, put on its cut edge, is glued to the strip of “liquid nails” applied to the frame beam.
	Further, the lamps can be connected to the general electrical system of the apartment. The process of installing lighting elements and connecting them to the power supply, if there is not enough experience in electrical work, is best entrusted to an experienced specialist.
	If we are talking about a toilet, then a few words should be said about the installation and fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor. First of all, this accessory is installed close to the back wall or to the box mounted along it. In addition, during the preliminary fitting, you need to make sure that the sewer pipe is opposite the outlet pipe of the toilet.
	Further, on the tile with a marker, the exact location of the toilet is marked, as well as the points for drilling holes to secure it.
	The next step, the toilet bowl is temporarily removed to the side, and holes are drilled along the marked marks to secure it. The depth of the holes must be at least 60 ÷ 70 mm, and their diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel that comes with the toilet.
	Next, plastic dowel plugs are hammered into the holes in the floor. Installed in place of the toilet. The holes in its leg should line up with the holes in the floor. Often at the same stage it is necessary to immediately dock the outlet of the toilet bowl with the sewer pipe. Then, mounting screws with silicone gaskets are installed in the aligned holes, which will separate the ceramic from the metal. If you do not install the gaskets, then when tightening the screws, the toilet leg may crack.
	It is also impossible to overtighten the fixing screws, as this will create stress in the material, and it may crack or even chip over time. After tightening the fasteners, the caps of the fasteners are closed with special camouflage caps, which are usually included in the kit that is attached to the toilet by the manufacturer.
	After fixing and attaching the toilet bowl to the sewer pipe, assembling the drain tank and connecting a flexible water supply to it, it is recommended to carefully fill the gap between the leg and the floor lining with sealant.

Installing a toilet is a tricky business.

In the table above, a brief description of the installation of the toilet was given only to show the final stage of finishing the toilet. In reality, things can be a bit more complicated. Detailed information on how to independently comply with all the rules of all the rules can be obtained from the corresponding publication of our portal.

Plastic ceiling for a toilet or bathroom - the best solution

About the ceiling in this article was also discussed only in an overview. This is because detailed information about is posted in another portal article dedicated to this issue.

For those who carefully read this publication, we hope it became clear that it is not so easy to finish the toilet with a plastic clapboard, so it is quite possible to do it on your own, saving some money. The main thing is not to rush, and always adhere to the folk wisdom "measure seven times - cut once." As a result, a “boring” toilet can turn into a cozy, outwardly beautiful, easy-to-clean room, as, for example, shown in the proposed video.

Video: how plastic panels can transform a standard toilet room in an apartment