In a new review, the author has collected examples of racks and shelves that you can make with your own hands. They must, of course, be used for their intended purpose. Having looked at the photographs collected here, you can easily make sure that there is nothing fundamentally complicated in the proposed option.

1. Circle shaped



An original round shelf, the edging of which is made of thin fiberboard, and the shelves themselves are made of ordinary boards painted in white. Of course, such a design is not suitable for storing the entire home library, but it can accommodate several educational books, a small houseplant and a couple of framed photographs.

2. Wall shelf



A charming hanging shelf that can be made from several unwanted books or notepads of the same size. Such a shelf is not only suitable for storing cosmetic accessories and small decorative items, but in itself will become a wonderful decoration for any wall.

3. Arrow



Stylish bookshelf in the form of an illuminated arrow, made from leftover metal water pipes, will fit perfectly into the interior of a teenage boy’s room or a bachelor’s apartment.

4. Practical and unusual



An original and practical shelf that can be made from a small tray from an old cart and several wooden blocks. This shelf is reliable and spacious and is suitable for storing a wide variety of things.

5. Charming shelving



A stylish and original shelving unit made from a slightly modified door painted white. Such a rack filled with favorite books, candles, family photos and small elements decor, will become a real highlight of any space.

6. Narrow slats



Old skis that have been collecting dust in the closet for many years can be used to create unusual shelves. Such shelves will fit perfectly into the interior of a nursery and are suitable for storing toys and books.

7. Stylish copper



Massive shelves made of wood covered with a stylish copper-colored film are perfect for placing house plants.

8. Old pallet



Old wooden pallet Simply turn it into an original shelf for storing magazines and family photos.

9. Industrial style



Stylish storage system that is relevant now industrial style, which can be made from wood or MDF boards painted in gray and interconnected by a structure of metal water pipes.

10. Bright honeycomb



Original shelves made from bright hexagonal gift boxes attached to mirrors of the same shape. Of course, this design is not suitable for storing large, heavy objects, but it is suitable for storing little things that are dear to the heart and decorative items, and will also become a unique wall decoration.

11. Stylish transformation



Drawers from an old discarded table can be used to create original shelves. Carefully painted and modified at your discretion, the drawers can be attached to the wall, both vertically and horizontally, and used to store a wide variety of things.

12. Rough design



Rough shelves made of untreated wood, exposed with varnish or paint, will fit perfectly into the interior of a room decorated in a rustic or country style.

13. Abundance of cells



A huge wall-length shelving unit made from many wooden boxes, painted in bright colors, can become a stylish and budget-friendly alternative to a massive store-bought wardrobe.

14. Wicker basket

MDF shelves.


Compact MDF shelves with fruit slices painted underneath them will become a bright and functional decoration of the kitchen wall.

17. Rustic style



A sturdy piece of bark or raw wood can be turned into a fantastic hanging shelf that provides a creative alternative to a standard bedside table.



How to make a pull-out shelf for the kitchen. How to make a drawer correctly. Practical recommendations. Create an extra spice rack

Drawers are an integral part of any closet. Sometimes situations arise when they are not enough to arrange all the things in a convenient place and order.

Drawers are very convenient to use. Even those who have never made anything themselves can make them.

Here it is worth talking about the fact that you can make drawers with your own hands. Some, of course, will want to purchase them, but the size they need may not always be on the market. In this case, retractable elements are the only way out of the deadlock.

Tools and materials

So, to assemble products that extend, you will need the following list of tools and materials:

  • drill or powerful screwdriver;
  • an electric jigsaw that will allow you to cut the material as efficiently as possible;
  • construction angle;
  • ruler;
  • pencil;
  • roulette;
  • rag;
  • iron.

When everything is assembled, you can proceed directly to installation.

The guides will be an integral element of the design. You simply can’t do without them, because the boxes have to move on something?

Full roll-out guides are the best option. However, roller products can also be used. Some people prefer to install just ordinary pieces of wood instead. However, this is not the best solution.

All guides on the market have a pitch of 50 mm. Thus, if we are talking about a box whose length is 450 mm, then it will need a guide with a size of 400 mm. In this case, the system will work efficiently and without failure.

It’s one thing to buy, but you also need to deliver it. This is done extremely simply. The design of these elements involves standard fastening using self-tapping screws or other fastening materials.

Detailing the boxes themselves

Now it's time to make the boxes themselves. For blanks you can use chipboard sheets or purchase ready-made furniture panels. Even if they are smaller in size, they are enough for work, but there will be a lot of waste from the chipboard (of course, if you are not arranging a furniture set).

You can cut all the elements yourself using an electric jigsaw. Sometimes you can go the other way, for example, order this service at the store where the material was purchased. The front and back walls of the drawers must be secured between the sides. The bottom must be attached to the box.

Assembling drawers with your own hands

All the parts are ready for assembly, it’s time to get started. Before starting work, the edges of the elements are glued. This is done extremely simply - using a not very heated iron and a rag. The edge is laid beautiful side up, and then pass over it with an iron several times (the fastening will be more reliable).

After this, the rag is removed. Next, everything is wiped with a dry cloth, and excess edges are trimmed with a knife. All edges must be additionally processed using sandpaper. The result should be a very nice picture.

Holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the product for confirmations, and 5 mm in the end. The marking for the guides on the drawer can be in any convenient position, but it is best if this line runs in the middle of the product.

Some features

We will talk about the full rollout guides, which were mentioned above. They are the ones in similar situation most appropriate. The products consist of two components. The wide part must be firmly attached to the side of the cabinet using self-tapping screws of the appropriate size. They should not be too large so that the fasteners do not protrude outward. A small part of them should be attached directly to the boxes. Initially, such elements are sold as a single unit, but must be separated before work begins. This is done quite easily.

Now the guides can be attached to the cabinet and drawer. On the first element this is done with a small indentation, which is approximately 3 mm from the edge. As for the drawers, no gaps are needed here. The guide is mounted flush.

The facades themselves must be secured from the inside using self-tapping screws.

There is one little trick, which will help set these elements exactly:

  1. First, you need to make appropriate holes for handles on the facades.
  2. Next, you need to attach it to the place, and then attach it from the outside through these holes. Then the drawer is pulled out, the facade is attached from the inside in normal mode, and then the fasteners are turned out. A very confusing system, but in practice it is quite easy to understand.

Now you can drill the holes for the handles to the end, and then begin their direct fastening. This is where the work ends.

It can be stated that the drawers are completely ready for use. In this case, you must first check their performance. If something is wrong, then you will have to adjust the elements from the very beginning. And this is highly undesirable. It’s better to make sure at the design stage that everything is done to the highest possible quality. Only in this case the work of everyone structural elements will be correct.

Thus, as is clear, making boxes with your own hands is quite simple. The most important thing is to follow the instructions given above. This will eliminate various modifications and defects that may occur on different stages work and operation of structural elements of this type. Good luck!

Hello friends!

Today I want to offer you a review interesting topic. We will talk about drawers, often used in...

This is a very commonly designed element and can be found in almost any furniture.

Its advantage is that it is quite convenient to use.

For example, take the lower kitchen module.

If it contains hinged doors, then in order to get an item out of it, you need to squat down (or bend over very much), after which you need to find this item inside the box.

Another thing is retractable elements! It is enough to open them from any position - and immediately all its contents are visible.

Of course, the cost of such a box in comparison with the same one, but with hinged doors, is very different (due to the amount of material used and built-in fittings), but they also differ in ease of use.

The boxes themselves are assembled in a certain way (as shown in the figure). To calculate their sizes you need to know two things:

  1. Dimensions of the box in which they should be installed
  2. The gap on the guides by which they are attached to it

The size of the box affects all the parameters of the retractable element we are considering: its width, depth and height.

Knowing the overall width, we can find out the internal opening. And if so, then knowing the tolerances for installing pull-out fittings, you can determine the overall width of the drawer.

When purchasing accessories, you should, if possible, look at their instructions or in the manufacturer’s catalogs. But the standard gap on the guides is 13 millimeters.

Calculate the total width of the box

X=S-90(mm), where X is the size of the box part, S is the total width of the box.

Likewise, for Chipboard thickness 18 mm, the formula will look like this:

X=S-98(mm)

Now let's talk about the depth of the box

Typically, this size should match the size of the guide installed on it.

The box (for them) is designed based on the dimensions of the same guides (250mm-300mm-350mm-400mm-450mm-500mm-550mm-600mm).

To these dimensions are also added tolerances for the “travel” of the element itself (5-10 mm), and, if necessary, for the stiffeners (20 mm), if any.

The height is determined based on the height of all facades designed for this module

The parts are attached to each other with confirmats (up to 150 mm - one confirmat per corner, over 150 mm - two).

The bottom is made of fiberboard, which is stuffed with nails (h=20mm), after which it is reinforced with self-tapping screws (16x4, 16x3.5).

Attaching the bottom is a crucial moment in the assembly process. The fact is that, in addition to its direct purpose, it also gives rigidity to the entire structure and fixes its dimensions. Therefore, having “nailed” the bottom of the box with nails, you need to make sure that its diagonals are the same (this is a very important point).

Sometimes the bottom is designed from chipboard, but then the structure turns out to be quite heavy. In this case, to give it correct geometry, the bottom is made inset (enclosed between its parts).

It is better to make its dimensions 1 mm less than the internal width and depth (so when cutting a sheet, parts are made with a tolerance of +1 mm).

There are also almost ready-made solutions (to assemble them, it is enough to have one part made of chipboard - the bottom), for example, samboxes or tandemboxes.

For information: samboxes are “nonsense” from the category of roller guides, and tandemboxes are a high-quality system with a self-closer, not cheap and quite reliable.

The video below shows an example of assembling a drawer for telescopic e.

The bottom is made of fiberboard, made from leftovers left over from previous orders.

In “garage” conditions, all this is done quite simply, as shown in the video.

That's all, see you later.

How to make shelves? Shelves are very often used not only as an additional decoration and piece of furniture, but also as functional furniture, allowing you to compactly arrange and store a lot of useful gizmos. The shelf makes the room more lived-in and cozy atmosphere, and the original designs of the shelves immediately reveal the creative and artistic personality of the owner.

On at the moment The consumer market provides a lot of different modifications and models that can be made from almost any material. But it happens that you can’t find suitable option models and designs, and here imagination and creating a unique product with your own hands can come to the rescue. In addition, in fact, a standard shelf can be made almost without difficulty from any available materials.

Product types

The types of products differ from each other in design, but home craftsmen, having a modern universal tool, can easily assemble any model even at home. But, before you get to work, you should still decide on the desired appearance of the shelf.

  1. Classic design suggests discreet appearance, a simple form and a generally accepted classic example of style. This type of shelf is the most common due to its simplicity and ease of assembly. But characteristic forms can also be diluted with asymmetrical configurations.
  2. The corner model is used to organize the external or internal corner. This shelf is attached to two adjacent walls at once. This shelf model is often installed in bathrooms or utility rooms, but with proper placement, the element can harmoniously fit into any room.
  3. Wall-mounted furniture is designed to be placed exclusively on a flat surface and is often located in the middle of the wall or slightly higher. The fastenings of these elements are vertical posts or cables.
  4. A floor shelf is often installed close to the wall, and in fairly spacious rooms it can be used as a partition. Tall and narrow products are attached to walls or ceilings for greater stability.
  5. The modus is an open floor type with a large functional system. You can place any objects in the modus sections, and also use a piece of furniture to divide rooms into zones. For example, separating the living room from the kitchen area.
  6. An exclusive shelf model can have the most creative and non-standard approach for production. Not only the shape can be varied, but also the material itself that makes up the shelf.

There are no limits to human imagination, especially when it comes to handmade products. By decorating a corner or wall with one of the above models, you can not only decorate the space, but also harmoniously arrange small decor.

Material

Base material homemade shelves You can use almost any one that will be more or less durable. When choosing a material, it is also necessary to take into account the mounting location of the furniture structure and its operating functions.

  1. Plastic. One of the most widely used and budget materials, which craftsmen use in its various configurations. It is very easy to work with plastic, it is not capricious, unlike wood, and also has a wide color scheme. According to the characteristics of plastics, a wide variety of plastics can be used to make shelves with your own hands, depending on preferences and the overall interior. These can be ordinary wide or narrow plastic pipes, PVC panels, a transparent special material that imitates glass, a laminate that can be classified as either plastic or wood, or other types of plastics. Plastic products will perform their functions perfectly in a greenhouse, in a bathroom, pantry, basement, toilet, on a balcony or loggia, since they are not susceptible to mold and can withstand almost any load, depending on the thickness of the material and fastenings.
  2. Tree. The classic version of shelves, widely used both in utility rooms, such as a garage, cellar, bathhouse, shed and others, and in living rooms such as a bedroom, living room, kitchen. For processing we use any type of wood: timber, boards, plywood, chipboard, fiberboard and even whole trees or logs and their cuts. When choosing wood products, people are mainly guided by practicality, ease of manufacture or processing, and solid appearance. Wood can be easily painted and shaped into any shape, regardless of the type of wood, but it is believed that the more expensive class of wood is best treated with varnish, leaving the structure of high-quality wood visible. Wooden shelves They can be either decorative and original, such as old logs, or functional: floor racks, retractable ones, partitions (modes) that can withstand heavy loads.
  3. Metal. In living spaces, this material is not used as often as others, and mainly serves as a fastening or additional decor to shelves. This type of product will fit well into high-tech, industrial, techno or loft styles, where straight forms are used. Forged models are more suitable for interiors in Baroque, Provence, Empire, Scandinavian, Rococo, Art Deco and Romanesque styles. In order to make such a shelf with your own hands, you must have certain welding and forging skills. But with metal shelves and racks the situation is much simpler. Metal structures most often used in industrial enterprises, at service stations, in storage facilities, supermarkets, libraries. But it is possible that such models can also be used for household needs. The big advantage of such designs is that all the necessary parts can be purchased at a fairly low price. Also, such racks, installed, for example, in a pantry, garage, cellar or on a balcony, significantly save space.
  4. Glass. Glass shelves, thanks to modern innovative technologies, have the ability to hold fairly large loads. As is the case with other materials, glass is produced in different shades and structures, and if such decorative items were previously often used in bathrooms, then in a modern interior this furniture design can successfully and harmoniously fit into the kitchen area, living room, hallway and bedroom. Thanks to the successful use of such material, you can visually enlarge the space and create the illusion of weightlessness of objects. Such shelves look especially advantageous with additional lighting in small rooms, which also give the space an ultra-modern feel. At home, a similar design can be made by adhering to certain consequences and rules and having special tools for cutting glass.
  5. Drywall. Shelves from of this material more often used as part of room design. By installing a similar structure into the wall, you can create unique design and get rid of unnecessary bulky furniture. When proportioned and used correctly frame materials Even heavy objects such as a TV can be placed on a plasterboard shelf.
  6. Stone, brick. The laying of such materials in a room requires a sufficiently large space for the construction of such models. Decorative stone or facing brick will complement the interior in loft, country, English, hi-tech style. Also for finishing various types I often use shelves and niches decorative brick, that is, imitation of stone products.

When choosing a material, the master must take into account not only financial capabilities, but also his skills in the manufacture of certain structures. Even if the shelf you have chosen seems simple and quick to manufacture, do not be lazy to sketch out a drawing and the sequence of certain steps. When choosing a furniture design, you should also be guided by the opinion of your household members. For example, in a home with small children, it is better to use firmly established functional models, which can be replaced with more creative models as the child grows older.

Fastenings

Types of fasteners play a very important role in the manufacture of a particular structure. There are many ways in which you can securely and beautifully secure a furniture structure. Depending on the choice of shelf and the overall interior, it is necessary to use certain fastening options.

  1. Classic, traditional mount. Such hinges are suitable for wood products and other materials with sufficient end thickness for fastening. Classic hinges are screwed into the back or sides of the shelf with self-tapping screws. After this, it is necessary to measure the distance between the holes in the hinges, which should then be transferred to the wall, observing clear horizontal lines. The points marked on the wall are drilled and dowels are inserted into which nails with a specific head are screwed in to fit perfectly into the eye of the loop.
  2. Fasteners for glass shelves. Traditional hinges are absolutely not suitable for glass products, because ordinary glass cannot be drilled, much less screwed into it. Fasteners for glass shelves have two holder parts with elastic gaskets, between which a glass structure. For a tighter fastening, there is often a screw at the bottom of the holder that presses the glass more tightly to the upper retaining element. The most used model for such shelves is a fastener called “pelican”, which, indeed, has a similar shape to a pelican’s beak. This small holder is capable of holding glass up to almost 35mm thick. There are also more modern models fastenings designed for glass shelves and more.
  3. Decorative brackets. Such fastenings, in addition to their direct duty, most often serve as additional decor. Models of fasteners can be made by hand or purchased, but they are all attached very simply and quickly.
  4. Concealed installation. The name speaks for itself: this mount is completely hidden. The point is so simple and original model is that the end wooden structure drilled to fit the mounting pin. The mount is attached to the wall, and a shelf is placed on it. Very simple and at the same time beautiful and stylish.

A competent choice of fasteners will ensure reliability, beautiful view and the convenience of placing the shelves you choose. But, along with traditional fastenings, there are also unusual options fasteners. One of these non-standard and modern options are leather belts, iron chains or thick ropes and cords that are attached to the wall or ceiling using large hooks or self-tapping screws.

How to make shelves with your own hands?

How to make shelves with your own hands from scrap materials simply and quickly? The simplicity or some complexity of manufacturing is determined by the material you choose and its design. The process of creating shelves at home has its own nuances and various instruments for processing and installation work.

The most commonly used material remains wood or raw materials containing wood. Such samples can be furniture board, old unnecessary shelves, pallets (pallets), natural wood, chipboard, MDF or similar. From such raw materials, you can build the most daring options yourself, which can harmoniously complement the room or serve as an excellent functional device.

Even a banal bookshelf can be made by yourself or yourself into an unusual shape. Suitable for a small number of books hanging option with leather straps, wall-mounted corner shelves, round or floor - in the form of a herringbone or a small rack. These devices are ideal for small room, in which any unallocated space must be used. This could be a wall between the windows or above the bed, a free corner or a niche under the window.

For beginners without any specialized tools, models in the form of hanging shelves using ready-made wooden panels and durable belts are suitable. All you need to attach the option, as in the photo, is a drill and a couple of screws. During the process, it is necessary to observe not only clearly marked horizontal lines, but also general rules safety with electrical appliances.

Such original design Perfect not only for books, but also for flowers, seedlings and other needs. Speaking of seedlings: if you have enough large number plants, you can easily construct a shelf even on plastic window. You will, of course, need more boards or strong plywood sheets for horizontal surfaces and four wooden legs connected to each other with corners and nails.

Retractable

Pull-out shelves – most brilliant invention, an incredibly functional device and simply a “lifesaver” where there are extra centimeters in the closet or, for example, in the kitchen near the refrigerator. Or, conversely, in a room where there is little space, for example, in a bathhouse, various construction options are made from linden or aspen. Similar additional shelves can be made with your own hands from various wooden materials And special fittings, which will cost you very little. By the way, such a piece of furniture may end up in the same kitchen cabinet where, in your opinion, another shelf is simply needed.

Moreover, such built-in pull-out shelves on wheels are simply necessary in computer desk, linen or shoe closet, or dressing table. With a retractable system, you can forget about any inconvenience when taking out cans, cosmetics, shoes, food, dishes or other items.

In order to make a small pull-out shelf yourself at home, you need to:

  • plywood bottom;
  • two side wooden walls;
  • one back wall;
  • two metal guides for the facade;
  • a set of roller or ball guide fittings;
  • screws for wooden products;
  • finishing nails.

The parts are cut strictly according to certain measurements, first the bottom is adjusted, then the side parts, and then the guides. Each part must be sanded, cleaned of dust, and then secured with glue and nails. While the shelf is drying, you should attach the guides to the facade; these elements are generally fixed with screws and glue. When working with guide hardware, it is also important to take proper measurements and clear horizontal lines into account.

Mounted

Make your own hanging shelves for wine bottles, cans, dishes, spices, or even for microwave oven in the kitchen, even above the hood, it’s very easy. For icons, books, certificates and medals, acoustics, telephones, framed photographs, toys in the bedroom or living room. This design can be hung in a child’s room, in the toilet behind the toilet (organizing a small space), in the corridor, above the door or sofa. An open wall shelf is not only a very stylish decorative accessory, but also convenient place for arranging various objects, especially small ones.

The possibilities of making models of wall shelves were described at the beginning of the article. Now we will look in more detail at the preparation process itself and the necessary materials:

  • saw or jigsaw for cutting material;
  • a grinding machine if the wood is poorly processed;
  • electric drill for forming holes in the material and wall;
  • building level for creating clear straight lines;
  • roulette;
  • hammer, screwdriver.

After a design drawing has been developed, wood and fasteners have been purchased, and the area where the building will be located has been selected. hanging shelf, you can begin the workflow itself.

  1. Sawing If you have an unprepared sheet of wood, then it is better to cut it in a garage or utility room. For a simple shelf you will need a fairly thick rectangular wooden board, the length of which you originally planned. The sawn material must be sanded in the sawed areas and, if desired, the ends must be finished with melamine edge. For final processing use paint and varnish materials, but not always. In this case, the wood is simply impregnated natural oils or wax to preserve the structure and longer service life of the product.
  2. Assembly of the structure. On the prepared wood, mark the points of connection with the screws; on the vertical surface, using a level, also mark the points for fastening, which will exactly coincide with the marks on the shelf. First of all, holes are drilled in the wall with a drill of the required depth, then dowels are inserted, after which the brackets are adjusted and fastened with self-tapping screws. The number of fasteners depends on the number of holes in the decorative brackets. After the fastenings on the wall are secured with self-tapping screws, the shelf itself should be secured. For the shelf you will need smaller self-tapping screws, which should be screwed in with a screwdriver or screwdriver from below.

Using this or another fastening method, you can attach the most extraordinary versions of simple hanging shelves. This method can also be applied to corner and triangular wall models. One of these types of structures can be built, as shown in the video tutorial below.

Shelving

Racks, if they are metal, are often used in the garage. Wooden long shelves can be seen more often in the library, but both of them can be made very simply and quickly if you have available necessary tool and material. You can make shelves yourself even from scrap materials, that is, from old unnecessary furniture, cardboard or boxes, or iron sheets.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that shelving made of cardboard and wood should not be used in rooms with high humidity(outside or in the bathroom), and should also be kept away from sources of fire.

As one example, consider original rack made of cardboard, which even a schoolchild can assemble (under adult supervision), and the furniture will be quite cheap in terms of costs. Such an item will decorate the interior well and will allow you to place books, photographs and other not too heavy objects. Follow the step by step instructions below.

  1. For a shelf-rack, you need to choose a fairly thick cardboard. A five-layer one is good for this purpose, and it is also easy to process.
  2. The layout of the cardboard elements must be drawn out with a pencil. Depending on the choice of model, you need to take into account the number of parts, their depth, width and height.
  3. Elements of the future rack can be cut out with an ordinary stationery knife or jigsaw.
  4. After preparing the main parts of the high shelf, it is necessary to cut out auxiliary strips that will make the piece of furniture more voluminous.
  5. First you need to assemble internal and auxiliary parts together, which can be fastened with gun glue.
  6. A press should be placed on the glued parts, for this a good one will do stack of books.
  7. After assembling the parts, you can form the rack itself.
  8. Irregularities and joints should be covered with putty and left to dry for about a day.
  9. After drying, the structure should be painted and glued self-adhesive film or wallpaper.

There are no specific requirements for this type of furniture. All parts are made based on your imagination or photo examples seen on the Internet. In the same way, you can decorate a children's room by constructing a house or an animal figure from boxes. Or make a stylish partition that will serve as a room divider, interior decoration and for the safety of small accessories.

With a mirror

A mirror is a necessary accessory in the hallway, bathroom and other rooms, as are shelves. In order to combine the two necessary elements, you should stock up on the mirror itself, wooden frame and a shelf, which should be the same shade as the main furniture.

Installing a shelf with a mirror is a simple but important process, because in addition to the fact that every millimeter must be taken into account, you should also carefully attach the mirror element. But if you have never encountered cutting glass or a mirror, then it is better to entrust this procedure to specialists. And it’s even easier to buy a ready-made mirror, for which you can make a frame and shelf with your own hands.

Shelves can be located under the mirror, on the mirror element itself, on the side of it or on top. There is nothing easier than purchasing a ready-made mirror of the desired shape and simply screwing the shelf you have chosen and matches the overall style under the mirror piece.

Invisible

Invisible shelves for books and small additions to the interior have become very popular thanks to designers who bring their wildest fantasies to life. One of these options is a special mount that can hold weight up to 5-7 kg. But you can make similar fasteners yourself. To do this you will need:

  • one unnecessary but nice large and chunky hardcover book;
  • 2 brackets for the size of a book;
  • self-tapping screws, dowels and screws for fastening;
  • pencil, level, screwdriver or screwdriver and drill.

It is necessary to place holders on the bottom side of the book so that they protrude evenly beyond the edges of the book. Using a pencil, you need to make markings in the holes of the fasteners. After this, drill the cover in the designated places, lift the back cover, place the brackets there and attach them with self-tapping screws.

The book with brackets must be placed on a vertical surface at the required height and holes for the fasteners must be marked. For more accurate horizontal lines, we recommend using a level.

Drill holes in the places marked on the wall, insert dowels and secure the brackets with the book shelf in them. IN step-by-step photo instructions It can be seen that making such a shelf will not be difficult. The original shelf is ready, now you can put books and other souvenirs on top of it.

Transformers

Transformable shelves function thanks to a movable design, with which you can change the position of the shelves and refresh the interior. Such an original shelf can be purchased at a specialized furniture showroom, but for a craftsman familiar with carpentry, it will be quite simple to make such a structure.

The basis of such a furniture design is a wooden slab in which round holes or grooves are cut to hold the shelves. The shelves themselves can consist of one or more panels fastened together. These shelf models can be used for kitchen utensils, books or as cat beds.

As already mentioned, human fantasies have no boundaries. Creative personalities are able to make shelves from old boxes, benches, ladders, televisions, plastic pipes, chair backs, skateboards and even suitcases! During such experiments, people use the most unusual details, which subsequently create a unique colorful design. This article provides only a general overview of the options and capabilities of craftsmen, and also provides several of the simplest and most accessible examples.

Few pieces of furniture make do with shelves alone. It is often convenient to build drawer.

Drawers are much more convenient than shelves - they provide more convenient access to stored items. But without special knowledge, it can sometimes be difficult to make a drawer in a closet, for example, or in a kitchen cabinet.

So, how to make a drawer in a furniture piece..?

The design of the drawer can be divided into three parts:

  • Facade;
  • Retractable mechanism.
  • Box.

Facade can be overhead or internal - that is, placed between the sides of the cabinet. When calculating the facade, you need to take into account the indentations from the dimensions of the opening that it should cover - 1.5 - 2 mm on each side and the gaps between adjacent facades - 2 mm. If the facade is made of chipboard, and its ends are supposed to be covered with edges, then from overall size facade, the thickness of the edges should be subtracted to obtain the saw size. More details about the calculation and installation of facades.

Retractable mechanism, or guides.

The first step is to choose the length of the guides. All guides have standardized length dimensions, and the depth of the drawer will depend on these dimensions. The length of the guides can be from 300 to 550 mm, in increments of 50 mm, and up to 800 mm for ball guides.

We measure the side of the cabinet in which the drawer should be located, and based on this size, we select the length of the guides. If we are designing a product, we first determine the length of the guides, according to our requirements and ideas about the design of the future furniture product, and after that we design the sidewall.

We design the sidewalls to which the guides will be attached 10 mm deeper than the length of the guide. This is necessary so that the drawer does not hit the back wall of the cabinet when closing.

  • Wooden slats on which the box slides.
    A primitive system, but sometimes it can be used - in retro-style furniture, or when the drawer is so small that there is nowhere to install modern guides.
  • Roller guides for drawers are the most popular sliding mechanism for drawers. It is cheap and quite reliable, and at the same time easy to install.



    The guides are attached to the side of the cabinet with 3x15 screws, and to the drawer with 3x25 screws. Alignment is along the bottom edge of the drawer. The minimum distance from the bottom of the cabinet is 5 mm.

    If we decide to use roller guides, then the overall width of the drawer should be 26 mm smaller internal size cabinets. If a 400 mm wide cabinet is made of 18 mm thick chipboard, then the overall width of the drawer will be:

    400-18-18-26 = 338 mm.



  • Ball guides for drawers. They feature a soft, smooth ride. As a rule, they are telescopic - they allow the drawer to be pulled out completely. These slides may carry less load than roller slides, but ball-mounted drawers move more gracefully. The guides are attached to the side of the cabinet and to the drawer with 3x15 screws. Alignment is along the lower or upper edge of the drawer. The minimum distance from the bottom of the cabinet is 5 mm. If we use ball guides, then the overall width of the drawer should be 28 mm less than the internal size of the cabinet. If a 400 mm wide cabinet is made of 18 mm thick chipboard, then the overall width of the drawer will be:

    400-18-18-28 = 336 mm.


  • Boxes with metal sides Metabox. This is a design of a drawer in which the sides of the drawer are metal, and the guide is made as one piece with the sidewall. This system is more reliable and more resistant to loads, so it is used in kitchen cabinets, or in furniture where increased operating loads are planned: workbenches, miscellaneous technological equipment, etc.

    The Metabox system has three metal side heights: 86 mm, 127 mm and 150 mm. If you need a taller box, you can use box guards. The width of the bottom and back wall in such drawers is 32 mm less than the internal size of the cabinet. If a 400 mm wide cabinet is made of 18 mm thick chipboard, the width of the bottom of the drawer and its back wall will be:

    400-18-18-32 = 332 mm.



    The height is equal to the height of the metal sidewall minus the thickness of the bottom of the box, or more if we use additional fencing


  • Hidden guides are used in expensive furniture. Their peculiarity is that when the drawer is pulled out they are not visible - the mechanism is completely hidden UNDER the drawer. If we use such guides, then the size of the drawer will be 6 mm smaller than the internal size of the cabinet. If a 400 mm wide cabinet is made of 18 mm thick chipboard, then the overall width of the drawer will be:

    400-18-18-6 = 358 mm.


  • TANDEMBOX drawer systems are expensive, heavy-duty drawers with metal sides and stackable metal or glass sides. Typically used with door closers.

    For TANDEMBOX from BLUM, the width of the bottom and rear wall will be 75 mm less than the internal dimensions of the cabinet. In a cabinet, 800 mm wide, 18 mm chipboard, the bottom of the drawer will be

    800-18-18-75 = 689 mm.

    The rear wall is 87 mm smaller than the internal width of the cabinet, its width is:

    800-18-18-87 = 677 mm.

    The height of the rear wall depends on the selected bracket height.

    Attention! The thickness of the material for making this type of box cannot exceed 16 mm!

Depending on the type of mechanism chosen, we determine the overall width of the box.

The box itself is assembled from chipboard, according to one of the selected schemes, using confirmations. The bottom is made of fiberboard and secured with a 3x25 screw, or driven into a groove - according to the selected pattern. In drawers that use the Metabox or Tandembox mechanism, the bottom is made of chipboard, and is attached to the metal sides using 3x25 and 3x15 screws.

  1. Before assembling the cabinet itself, markings for fastening the guides are applied to the sides of the cabinet. Then the guides are attached - the part that is attached to the sidewall - using 3x15 screws.
  2. Assembling the cabinet.
  3. The boxes are assembled according to the chosen pattern.
  4. Install the bottoms of the drawers.
  5. Screw the second halves of the guides to the drawers using 3x25 roller screws or 3x15 ball screws.
  6. Place the drawers into the cabinet and glue the strips onto the front walls double sided tape; if the box is a Metabox or Tandembox type, we glue it to the edge of the bottom.
  7. The facades are glued to the tape, and they are aligned relative to the cabinet and to each other so that all the gaps are the same (for this you can use pieces of PVC edge 2 mm thick as a standard).
  8. Drill holes for handles; if the box is a Metabox or Tandembox type, carefully pull out the box and drill holes for attaching the brackets.
  9. We tear off the facades, peel off the tape.
  10. We fasten the facades according to drilled holes; if the box is ordinary, and we drilled for handles, we fasten the facade by installing the handle, and after that we additionally fasten it with 2-4 screws from the inside, through the front wall of the box. If the box is a Metabox or Tandembox type, we attach it to the brackets, and install the handles later.

If it turns out crooked, you can try to adjust the entire drawer by “adjusting” the guides in height, re-tightening the screws into new holes. Drawers such as Metabox and Tandembox have front adjustment.


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