Chain-link distance between posts. Distance between corrugated fence posts. Basic principles of street lighting

Just as a theater begins with a coat rack, a well-groomed area begins with a fence. Presence of a fence – necessary condition completion of landscaping of the site. The type of fence, of course, depends on the functions assigned to it.

Types of fences: corrugated, brick, stone, concrete, picket fence, chain-link fence.

Its first and main function is protective, that is, preventing unauthorized entry of people and animals into the territory of the site. The decorative function, as a rule, refers to additional functions, but hardly secondary ones, which means it can lead to heated discussions regarding the materials and technologies used for its construction. The type of fence also depends on the amount of planned investment.

But no matter what fence you choose, you can’t do without pillars (supports).

The strength of the fence depends on the main material of the fence, the correct choice of supports, adherence to the technology for their installation, fastening of the elements (or sections) of the fence, and the optimal distance between the posts must be maintained.
Let's look at the most popular ones and determine what distance from the support post to the post will be the most correct from the point of view of the reliability of the fence.

What can it be built from? The most popular manufacturing materials: board ( wooden picket fence), corrugated sheets, concrete sections, stone or brickwork, chain-link mesh (tensioned or in the form of sections).
Choosing the material for the fence

A wooden fence is short-lived, its service life is approximately 8-10 years. But such a fence always looks aesthetically pleasing and harmoniously combines with almost any stylistic design of the site. The ease of installation is also impressive.
A fence made of corrugated sheets is durable, copes well with its barrier function and is durable, given its performance characteristics. The variety of colors and profile shapes of corrugated sheets allows you to show your design imagination at the stage of fencing the site. At correct installation such a fence looks not only neat, but also presentable.

A chain-link fence is a transparent type of fence; it looks light and neat. It is strong, durable and easy to install. The chain-link mesh, if desired, can be painted, which can make the fence attractive and harmonious to the overall design of the site. Painted chain-link is less susceptible to the adverse effects of precipitation. Such a fence can be made even more reliable by making sections from a metal angle, inside which a chain-link mesh is fixed.

A reliable, beautiful and even slightly monumental version of a fence is a fence made of brick or stone masonry. This type of fence is installed on the foundation. But it is not at all necessary that the spans between the pillars be brick or stone. Between the brick pillars, which are very strong and durable, a transparent or translucent type fence can be installed on a concrete base.

These are the most common fencing options for sites. Based on the above materials, we can offer such types of fence supports as metal pipe, concrete pillar, brickwork. It is not recommended to use wood as a support due to its relatively short term services.

When starting any work, you must first stock up on everything necessary tool and materials. It is necessary to take into account that tools and materials must be selected depending on the type of fencing and supports being installed, and only some of them are universal and will be required in any case. We will need a trowel, a special drill attachment for preparing the mortar, high-quality dry mixes and cement, a bayonet shovel, logs, log holders (x-brackets), a drill (if, of course, it is possible to use a drilling and piling rig - the drill can be excluded), rope, meter tape. Depending on the type of fence being built, you may need pliers, a hammer and nails, self-tapping screws, rivets, and a screwdriver. To protect the metal pipe-post from atmospheric precipitation, we will prepare plastic or metal covers: we will close the end holes with them. If there are supposed to be supports, then you will need brushes and paint.

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Wooden picket fence

During construction wooden fence for supports, as a rule, metal is used profile pipe, transverse crossbars - veins (logs) will be attached to it. The distance between the posts corresponds to the length of the logs to which the picket fence strips will be attached. The distance between the slats should correspond to the width of the picket fence. If it is necessary to make the fence denser, the distance between the picket fence is reduced to half its width. The presence of such gaps between the slats reduces the windage of the fence. To ensure the strength of a wooden picket fence, it is enough that the distance from post to post does not exceed 3 m. But you should not skimp on the supports: if the supports are installed closer than 2.5 m from one another, it becomes more costly and labor-intensive.

To begin the work, it is necessary to make markings, outlining the location of each corner post. Using a stretched rope between the installation marks for corner posts, we mark lines for placing supports along the perimeter of the site. This marking technique is used in the construction of all types of fences.

If the base of a metal pillar is to be concreted, then it is necessary to prepare a hole 1-1.5 m deep. You can use a less expensive method of installing supports - by driving in metal supports. In that case, this deep hole not needed - 40 cm is enough, given that the total depth should be approximately 100-120 cm, and the hole around the pipe should be sealed with stones or broken bricks. The openings of the metal pipe must be covered with covers to prevent the penetration of precipitation. This effective way protecting the pole from corrosion.

After strengthening the pillars, cross members are attached to them parallel to the ground (x-brackets can be used for this). The crossbars serve as the basis for the picket fence, which is nailed perpendicular to the joists. Do not forget that the wooden fence must be coated with an antiseptic, which will extend its service life.

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Chain-link fence (tension and sectional)

Chain-link mesh has long and firmly taken a position among the favorite materials for fencing areas: such a fence is reliable and does not require special skills for installation. Metal posts are most often used as supports for chain-link fences, and less often wooden ones. The use of wooden posts simplifies (it is possible to attach the mesh to the support posts using nails), but significantly reduces the service life.

Upon completion of marking the perimeter of the site for the location of the pillars, the pillars are installed in the holes prepared with a drill and concreted using a sand-gravel mixture and cement. Cement mortar must be compacted carefully. Since the windage of such a fence is minimal, it is enough to immerse the pillars to a depth of 1 m, and the resulting concrete pig will act as an anchor.

Having secured the edge of the chain-link mesh to the support, in order to avoid its sagging, you need to stretch a metal cable, wire or reinforcement along the upper and lower contours of the chain-link mesh. The broach is also attached to the support posts, between which the mesh is stretched.

To prevent the mesh from sagging, you can also make sections from a metal corner to which the mesh is attached, and then install the sections to the supports. This type of fence is more durable, but its installation is also more labor-intensive. Moreover, to perform such work it is necessary to master metal welding techniques.

In order for the fence to be strong, the distance between the support posts should not exceed 3 m.

Implementation street lighting much more complicated than everyday life. This is due to the existence of many rules and requirements. First of all, lighting should be as functional as possible, and the devices involved in it should have long term services. If all standards are not followed, street lighting will not be effective. For its successful implementation, the most important point is the calculation of the interval between future poles for lamps. The placement of lighting poles in the city center is much simpler than on its outskirts or in the private sector, not to mention villages.

Basic principles of street lighting

To provide streets with light at night, poles have been used for many years. Over all these years, the most used materials for their manufacture have been wood, concrete, iron and reinforced concrete. This is due to their strength and longevity, especially for reinforced concrete. Many different areas of both residential and non-residential areas of a settlement need constant light at night, in particular:

street sidewalks and pedestrian paths;
carriageways for cars and highways;
territories where various institutions are located;
gas stations;
car parks, etc.

Although the distance between lighting poles is the most important point during installation, it is still necessary to know and understand the essence and purpose of the structures themselves for lamps. It has two components:

The main part of the support is a pillar, which can vary in height. This is due to its function and location. Usually, when installing them in a village or city, the height is selected in such a way that the incident light forms peculiar cones on the ground that must intersect.
A source that reproduces the luminous flux. This equipment is installed on top of lighting poles and can be different shapes, power, etc. This factor depends on the location of the lighting line. For example, when arranging the illumination of highways, the use of lamps with powerful lamps is required, which, accordingly, increases the size of the lighting device itself. To illuminate recreation parks, squares and public gardens, you can use poles of smaller height and decorative sources Sveta.

Very often, poles with lanterns perform not only a lighting function, but are also supports for holding various wires and power lines. In this case, the distance between them can be increased.

Distance between lamp posts

First, you need to clarify that the distance between the two nearest pillars is called the span. To control these distances, there are certain standards and requirements that are specified in SNiP and GOST.

Choose what distance will be between street lighting supports in urban areas, in rural areas or in private territory sometimes it is difficult. However, for each case there are clear points specified in SNiP. Their implementation may also vary. Subject to the rules specified in the regulatory documentation, the distance between lighting supports should be calculated based on the following parameters:

the required level of illumination for a certain area where the installation of lamps is required. For urban and rural areas, these parameters will differ significantly;
the number of installed lamps on the pole;
power and type of lighting fixture;
height of installation of lamps on supports;
the type of lamps used in lamps, they can be LED, incandescent, fluorescent, etc.

You need to know that the most acceptable distance between poles for lighting and power lines is a distance of 35 meters.

Minor parameters when installing supports

When installing poles for lighting, you need to know not only the distance between adjacent poles, but also how many meters there should be to elements of road and architectural significance along the entire length of streets, road surfaces and squares. Therefore, it is also necessary to take into account the prescribed standards in the regulatory documentation before planning the placement of lighting poles. These standards include the following nuances:

When installing poles along main roads, the distance from the pole to the curb should not be less than 1 meter. For all other roads this norm is 0.5 meters. It is allowed to install lighting poles along the dividing strip, the width of which is at least 5 meters.
In cases where there is no curb along the road, the distance should be at least 1.75 meters from the support to the road surface.
Along highways where there is no traffic of large vehicles, the distance can be 0.3 meters.
When eyeliner electric cable to lamps using overhead power lines, the distance from poles to balconies and windows of residential buildings should not be less than 1 meter.

Effect of height and distance on the amount of lux

Regulatory documentation establishes special standards for intensity and workload traffic within the city and on main roads, amounting to 3,000 people in one hour. If this parameter is exceeded, the average illumination in this area should be at least 20 lux. When this indicator is reduced to 1,000 people, the illumination level is allowed to 15 lux. In areas with a footfall of up to 500 people, these figures can be equal to 8 points. As for places with road junctions, bridges and city squares, the illumination level reaches 25 lux, and in courtyards at least four.

If such requirements are met, it is not always possible to maintain the required distance between the poles on which street lamps are placed. After all, the displacement of the support can change the proportionality of the radii of the light flow, and therefore, the span distance will have to be recalculated so that they are the same.

In urban areas, the height of lighting poles should reach 20 meters. Before starting installation, it is necessary to make sure that specialized equipment and personnel are available to service this lighting line, and also to justify from a technical and economic point of view the need for such a height of supports.

Calculation of lighting pole placement parameters

Before you begin installing lamp posts, you need to carry out all necessary calculations and measurements, namely:

the most acceptable arrangement of supports with lamps, taking into account their distance from nearby structures and objects directly for each unit of the lighting line;
the length of the future span, calculated from one pillar to another.

In the first case, it will not be possible to change the distance of the mounted supports, since their installation is carried out without deviations from the established standards. But serious difficulties arise with determining the length of the spans; they can shift slightly by several meters. This is due to the following nuances:

the number of mounted lamps placed on the pole;
the power of each specific lighting fixture;
the height at which the lamps will be installed.

When carrying out calculations and using special tables that regulate the rules for lighting streets and roads, you can draw up a plan with markings for the installation of lighting poles.

When using data from tables, the process of calculating the necessary parameters for each individual object is simplified. Each lighting line has its own characteristics, which ultimately can affect the deviation from established rules. But in any case, the installation of supports for lamps in urban areas comes down to the most favorable 35 meters between nearby poles.

An important point for installation lighting fixtures is their step relative to the installation height. There are four types of lighting fixture placement:

one-sided – step up to 5:1;
rectangular and axial – up to 5:1;
chess – up to 7:1.

When using the table below, you must be aware that the data indicated in it refers to the maximum values. These figures are based on approved and standardized parameters for the placement of supports with lamps.

The benefits of correctly performed calculations

If you correctly determine the intervals between the pillars, you can get:

decrease emergency situations on highways and safety of pedestrian movement on sidewalks;
high-quality lighting at night;
excellent illumination of parks and squares;
reducing the crime rate.

Knowing the existing requirements for distances between lighting poles can help control installation work on his own summer cottage or at independent work for installing lamp posts.

Easy to build with your own hands. In order for the construction of the fence to proceed without overlays, it is necessary to provide for all technical aspects in advance. The basis of the fence is support posts and logs; this is the most labor-intensive part of the work. The maximum possible distance between fence posts made of corrugated sheets will significantly reduce the cost of fencing. At the same time, too long runs will make it difficult to install corrugated sheeting on the sheathing and reduce the strength of the structure. Optimal distance between fence posts approximately 2.5 meters. Depending on design features fencing, this figure may change in one direction or another, but not more than 3 meters.

What materials are fence posts made from?

The distance between fence posts depends on the material and method of installation of the supports. The more firmly the pillars are installed, the greater the distance between them can be. The distance is also reduced if the height of the fence is 2.5 meters or more.

Brick fence supports have the greatest load-bearing strength. Fencing is also erected using a metal pipe, metal profile or on stilts.

Poles must be placed in the corners of the site and in places where the fence changes direction. The locations of the supports are marked with pegs, a rope is pulled between them, and if the straight line is violated, they are aligned. They plan the gate and wicket.

Brick supports

Brick columns as supports look beautiful, are not subject to corrosion, and do not need to be painted. This solid structure requires the construction of a solid foundation, otherwise the fence may become skewed.

For the base of the masonry, pipes with a diameter of 57 mm or 2 to 4 rods of thick reinforcement are used. The distance between the finished corrugated fence posts will be 2.6 meters, and between the pipes - 3 meters. It is better to make supports from facing bricks- it looks better. Expenses are planned based on the calculation of 80 pieces per column.

for brick pillars

A belt is being installed under concrete foundation 0.6 m wide. Depth into the ground of at least 0.5 m plus a 20 cm sand cushion. The protruding part is 25-30 cm high. It can be made of concrete or laid out in brick, and then lined natural stone, tile, plaster or paint.

To protect the edges of the corrugated sheet from below and from the sides, a groove is provided in the base and in the posts. This is more difficult to do in columns. Can be used for laying half bricks. After installing the corrugated sheeting on the joists, the grooves are sealed with cement.

They dig a trench, depending on the distance between the fence posts that the metal pipes are installed (the usual figure is 3 meters). They are dug in to a depth of 25-30 cm below the freezing level. Then 2 layers of roofing felt are placed in the trench to waterproof the foundation. A frame is knitted from reinforcement 10 mm thick at a distance of 5 cm from the edges of the pit. The formwork is installed and poured with M300 concrete. Control the supports by plumb line.

If there are differences in soil on the site, then the foundation strip is divided into sections with a height difference of 10 cm.

Construction of brick pillars

Brick pillars under a fence made of corrugated board are placed one and a half or two bricks wide.

Their height is from 2 to 3 meters; the masonry is covered with metal caps or a cement slope on top. During masonry, metal mortgages are installed to secure the logs. The distance between the fence posts made of brick pillars in the final version is 2.6 meters. This is taken into account when cutting the sheathing profile and selecting the width of the sheet.

Metal pipe supports

A round metal pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and a metal thickness of 2 mm is used. For a high fence, it is convenient to take 11-meter pipes and cut them into three parts.

The length of the pipe section for support is equal to the height of the fence plus another half of it for the underground part. If the fence is 2 meters high, then 1 meter of the support goes underground, the total length of the pipe section will be 3 meters. In this case, the distance between fence posts made of corrugated sheets can be made to a maximum of 3 meters, and even a little more (depending on the layout of the area).

Installation of metal pipe supports

The pipes must first be welded on top or other plugs installed to prevent precipitation from entering. If you weld a cross of reinforcement onto the lower edge of the pipe, the stability of the support will increase.

Install corner posts, stretch the twine at a distance of 30 cm from the ground and along the top. Places for holes for posts under the corrugated fence are marked. The holes are made with a manual or electric drill to a depth of 1-1.5 m with a diameter of 30 cm. It is recommended to wrap the walls with roofing felt - this will prevent the earth from crumbling. This will also protect the supports from deformation when the soil settles: the soil will slide over the roofing felt.

Crushed stone or gravel - 20 cm is poured onto the bottom, a pole is installed (it should not pierce the pillow, otherwise corrosion is possible) and poured concrete mortar at ¾ depth. Align the support with a plumb line, wedge it with pieces of bricks, and top it up. If there is a slight distortion, then you can level it before the concrete hardens. Concreting is level with the ground surface, or even better, make formwork 40-60 mm and raise top part above the ground.

Concrete composition: 1 part cement, 4 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone, 4 parts water.

The final hardening of the solution occurs within a week. Only after this they begin to install the sheathing.

If there is little precipitation (the annual norm is up to 300 mm), the soil is sandy or loamy, then it is possible to do without concreting. The pipe is dug in one third, wrapped in roofing material or doused with molten bitumen. The soil is poured in 20-25 cm portions, compacting each layer thoroughly.

IN dacha version You can build a fence from corrugated sheets with pillars from a free-flow asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. Its length is 3.95 m. Cutting in half, you get two columns. The material is cheap but fragile.

Fence posts made of corrugated sheet metal

Use a 60x60 profile. Its length is 6 m or more, so you should take care of the delivery method in advance. Supports are installed from metal profiles in the same way as from pipes. Its advantage is that it is easier to install logs on it, and you can make a butt connection. This is more aesthetically pleasing; the strength of such a structure is increased by attaching the corrugated sheet to the pole.

Ready-made poles for corrugated sheets from a local manufacturer are sold on the market: They already have the top capped, the heel is welded (can be placed on a sand bed), and there are feet for joists with holes. The price is comparable to the price of the profile plus welding costs. The diameter of the pit for such supports will be two sides of the thrust bearing, and the distance between the fence posts can be 2.5-3 meters.

Installation of a fence made of corrugated sheets on piles

Ready-made foundation piles are expensive: 2000-2500 rubles apiece. But if you suddenly got hold of used material, you won’t find better supports. Their strength is very high, there are no costs for concreting and earthworks. What is the distance between fence posts on screw piles? Again, it all depends on the height of the structure. With a fence height of 2.5 m, you cannot make too large runs, since the fence made of corrugated sheets has a very large windage.

An option for craftsmen is homemade piles. A pipe of the required length is flattened at the end into a spear. A ring of three pipe diameters is cut out from a sheet of steel 3 mm thick using an autogenous machine. A circle the size of the pipe diameter plus 15% is cut out inside, a groove is cut, made into a screw and welded onto the pointed end of the pipe.

Installation of sheathing

After the concrete has hardened, installation of the sheathing begins. Logs can be wooden or metal.

Wooden logs are short-lived and less durable. Therefore, let’s take a closer look at the metal sheathing. Use a 30x30 or 40x20 profile (fix flat side to the fence), metal thickness 1.5-2 mm. Sometimes used metal corner, but it is inconvenient to attach a profiled sheet to it.

If the height of the fence is up to 2 m, 2 logs are planned, higher - 3 logs. is about 1.6 m, 20 cm away from the upper and lower edges of the fence. If the distance between the posts of a corrugated fence is 3 m, then it is better to weld the profile not from above, but between the supports. This increases the strength of the structure and gives the fence a more aesthetic appearance.

Anti-corrosion treatment is also best done after cutting the joists, before welding. It is possible after, but it is more labor-intensive. In any case, the welding areas are cleaned and painted. If you install the sheathing without welding - screw it in - the strength of the structure will be lower.

Installation of corrugated sheets

The distance between fence posts made of corrugated board should be taken into account when choosing corrugated board. For the fence, use profiled wall sheets C8, C10, C20, C21. The most popular sheet is C15 - it is cut without an upward wave, so it is convenient to combine it. The width of standard rolled products is from 800 to 1850, the most popular is 1100 - 1180, length (height) is 1440-3000, up to 4500 can be ordered - it will cost more.

The height of the lower edge of the fence from the ground is 15 cm. If the surface of the site is uneven, then differences of 10-15 cm are made. Install the sheets with an overlap in one wave, fasten after 1-2 waves (if less often, it will rattle in the wind), or 20- 25 cm, in the depression of the profile.

Installation is carried out with metal screws using a screwdriver or with rivets (pre-drill holes), using identical screws, only gray, but such a structure cannot be disassembled.

How to extend the service life of a corrugated fence

To protect against corrosion, additionally installed at the bottom and top metal profile. Him, as well as metal sheathing and the supports will have to be painted approximately once every 3-5 years. Otherwise, corrosion will make itself felt. Alas, the only way is not brick pillars. Not only fencing is made from corrugated sheets, as it is an inexpensive and fairly durable material.

By being careful when installing the sheet, you will save yourself from the need for preventive maintenance in the future. Use self-tapping screws with an EPDM gasket that protects the sheet coating from damage. During installation, paint over scratched areas with spray paint. Also, in the future, regularly treat scratches that arise during use.

A fence made of corrugated board, built taking into account all the recommendations, does not require special care in the future and will last for decades.

Correctly calculated distance between supporting elements

When starting work on building their own fence, every home builder dreams of creating a beautiful and durable structure. But the use of the most the best materials and the zeal of the craftsman do not guarantee that the fence will live up to your hopes.

Basics of calculation

To rebuilt with my own hands the fence has not become a source of severe headache for you, you need to carry out all the calculations correctly.

optimal distance between pillars;
the depth to which they need to be installed in the ground;
parameters of pillars and sections, that is, height, thickness, area;
the amount of material needed for construction.

Remember that for mistakes the fence will “revenge” its creator with rickety posts, cracks and other troubles. In the case of light fences, correcting the error is not so difficult. For heavy stone and brick fences, negligence in calculations will result in large financial losses and the need to completely redo all the work.

Materials for racks and types of fences

DIYers most often install wooden, metal, stone, concrete or brick pillars. Wooden ones are the cheapest, but also the least durable. They are mainly used for fencing made of the same material.

Metal is stronger, but cheap material and for this reason it is very popular. Posts made from it are used for all types of fences, with the exception of especially heavy brick and stone structures.

Concrete and stone are the most durable, but difficult to install and expensive. Their use is justified when a heavy fence made of stone, concrete, brick or a solid forged metal fence is being built. Brick ones are loved by all home craftsmen. More about them below.

Now let's look at the most popular fence options, paying attention to special attention distance between pillars:

Mesh fencing. Their height usually does not exceed 1.5 m (this is exactly standard width roll of chain-link mesh). To create the most durable structure, it is enough that the distance between the pillars is 2.5 m. With a larger distance, it will not be possible to stretch the mesh well.
Brick fences. The height of this type of fence varies from 2 to 3 m. It is not recommended to make brick fences higher. It is better to install pillars every 2.5-3 m. The structure will be durable, beautiful and optimal in terms of financial costs.
Fences made of corrugated sheets on metal supports. Considering the standard dimensions of the profile sheet, experts advise placing pillars every 2-2.5 m.
Wooden fences are built so that the distance between the posts is in the range from 2 to 3 m.

When the material is selected, you will need to calculate your “own” distance between the pillars.

What determines the distance between the pillars?

First of all, the distance between the fence supports depends on the material from which the posts and fence sections are made. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the parameters of the structure itself. The higher it is, the more often you will have to install supports. Wind and weight loads increase. It is also important how firmly the supports are installed in the ground. The stronger, the greater the distance between them can be.

When calculating the distance between posts, it is recommended to determine the position of corner posts, gates and wickets. It should be borne in mind that it is advisable to make all sections the same size. Now do some simple arithmetic calculations.

For example, if the area on which the brick fence will stand is 9 m, then you will need 3 posts at a distance of every 3 m. And for a fence of the same length made of corrugated sheets - 4 posts, and the distance between them will be 2.25 m .

Why not put more pillars, say 5 or 6? Unfortunately, too large number supports will not benefit your fence. This will only unjustifiably increase the cost of the fence and create unnecessary load on the foundation, make the fence insufficiently flexible and reduce its ability to withstand wind loads. The fence will be less attractive in appearance.

What if the distance between the fence posts is increased and, accordingly, their number is reduced? In this case, the structure will not be strong enough. For fences that use logs, the load on the support posts will increase, so they require a stronger foundation. And, again, it will suffer greatly appearance designs. Therefore, we choose the “golden mean”.

What determines the installation depth of the pillars?

On the one hand, the deeper the support is, the stronger the structure; on the other hand, the cost of work increases with every centimeter of depth. They become more labor-intensive and require involvement technical means. Here you need to determine the best option. The installation depth of the supports depends on the following factors:

the parameters of the fence, that is, its height and weight - the larger they are, the deeper the well for support should be;
wind loads, which depend on the type of structure (transparent or solid) and terrain features;
soil type, its composition, freezing depth, level groundwater and so on.

It is important to remember that the supports are affected by the force of the wind and the weight of the structure. Together, these two forces create a torque that reaches a maximum at the point where the support leaves the ground. Bending moment is the main cause of structural failure. But it will not be able to harm your fence if the installation depth of the posts ensures their sufficient elasticity.

Calculation of depth using an example

Here is an example of calculating the depth for a solid fence with the following parameters:

fence height – 2 m;
section width 2.5 m.

By multiplying these two values, we determine the area of each section: 2 * 2.5 = 5 m 2. To determine the wind load, it is necessary to multiply this value by the aerodynamic coefficient (for middle zone accepted 1.4) and the magnitude of the wind pressure (approximately 40 kg).

Multiplying, we get: 5 * 1.4 * 40 = 280 kg. That is, each rack in our design will experience a weight load of 280 kg. To calculate the bending moment, this value is multiplied by a constant equal to 0.8: 280 * 0.8 = 224 kg/m.

To determine the required depth of depth, it is enough to divide this value by the coefficient of the moment of resistance, which is taken equal to 225 kg. We get: 224 kg/m: 225 kg = 0.99 m. That is, approximately 1 m.

With such a depth of installation of the support, wind and weight loads will be fully compensated. But it should be remembered that the top layer of soil is usually quite loose, so another 20 cm is added to the obtained value.

In addition, one more thing needs to be taken into account important point– depth of soil freezing. If in your area the soil tends to swell when it freezes, then the lower part of the support should be buried below the freezing level. This is approximately 1.5 m deep for the middle zone. If this is not possible, then the support in the lower part is concreted with an extension that plays the role of an anchor.

Brick pillars are the best option

The tree is not strong enough, the metal pole requires constant attention, and the creation concrete structure– the process is costly and lengthy. Brick fence posts are especially loved by home craftsmen. We will talk about them in more detail, but first, all about the advantages of brick pillars.

First of all, this universal design. It can be used for almost any type of fence, such as wood, metal or brick. Construction brick pillar does not require the use of expensive equipment.

A correctly folded and installed brick pillar will not require any attention in the future. The brick pillar is good combination excellent performance qualities, attractive design and exceptional durability. At the same time, we should not forget that when we talk about the advantages of a brick pillar, we mean a structure built according to all the rules from high-quality material.

Nuances of choice

For selection good brick and its proper installation requires certain knowledge and skill.

Brick pillars vary:

according to the type of brick used. It can be a regular ceramic, silicate, clinker, hyper-pressed type;
in height, which depends on the height of the fence itself;
according to the installation depth of the metal pipe, which is selected taking into account the characteristics of the terrain and soil, as well as the height of the fence;
by type of masonry. The most popular is one and a half or two bricks. The thickness of the pillar and the amount of material required will depend on the type of masonry.

The disadvantages of brick pillars include their high cost. Therefore, it is especially important to choose the right type of pillar and calculate how much material is needed for its construction.

Calculation of the number of bricks

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend using bricks from different batches (even if the samples are of the same brand) for the construction of brick pillars. Firstly, a microscopic difference in composition can result in a difference in thermal expansion coefficients. The likelihood of cracks will increase. Secondly, the color of samples from different batches may not match, which will not have a very good effect on the appearance of the fence.

The home craftsman is faced with the task of immediately purchasing the required amount of material and, at the same time, getting by with minimal financial costs. We'll show you how to perform the necessary calculations. An example would be a pillar with the following parameters:

type of masonry - one and a half bricks;
the dimensions of one brick are standard 0.25* 0.12* 0.065 m;
seam thickness – 1 cm;
pillar height – 1.5 m.

Let's calculate the number of bricks. To install one row, you need 4 bricks, the thickness of each row is equal to the thickness of the brick plus the thickness of the mortar layer: 0.065 +0.01 = 0.075 m. Then the number of rows in the column is calculated to be 1.5: 0.075 = 20 rows.

Since each of them contains 4 bricks, a total of 80 bricks are required for one pillar. It is recommended to purchase bricks with a small margin of 5% in case of damage or defects. Thus, you will need to purchase 84 bricks to build one pillar.

Calculate the amount of solution

For masonry, its volume is taken equal to 1/5 of the total volume of brick, which will be: 0.25 * 0.12 * 0.065 * 80 = 0.156 m 3. Dividing by 5, we get a value of 0.032 m 3 - this is the amount of mortar that will be needed for masonry.

But don’t forget that you still need to fill the cavity inside the column with the solution. It has the shape of a parallelepiped, at the base of which is a square with sides 0.14 * 0.14 m and a height of 1.5 m. We calculate its volume: 0.14 * 0.14 * 1.5 = 0.0294 m 3. Total amount of solution: 0.032 + 0.0294 = 0.0614 m3.

So, for one pillar you need 84 bricks and approximately 0.0614 m3 of mortar (to put it in simpler terms - a little more than six standard buckets).

In fact, the required amount will be slightly less, since the reinforcement also takes up some volume. The difference (subject to use for these purposes steel pipe 80 * 80 mm with a thickness of 2 mm will be about 1/10 of a standard bucket) can be written off as unforeseen expenses. And they are always present.

Similarly, you can calculate the amount of material for laying two bricks or for pillars of a different height. You will also have to calculate the required amount of brick and mortar for sections, reinforcement and everything necessary for the foundation.

If all the calculations are completed and all the nuances are taken into account, you can purchase the material. And start building your own fence. Let it be successful!

When installing a fence, we first decide what goal we are pursuing, other than to fence off a piece of land. What kind of fence do we need? For many who want to save at least a little, it is the best option price-quality.

For relative durability and low cost, it is more logical to install supports from metal pipes. But do not forget that metal fence supports must be prepared for digging into the ground. Covered with primer and paint, anti-corrosion agent.

Calculation fence post distances calculated taking into account some parameters.

Fence height
support section
fence length
number of fence supports

If the fence and supports are made of brick. The distance between the metal supports inside each brick pillar will be 2.5 m.

If the supports are wooden, with a fence height of 2 meters, then the distance between the posts will also be 2.5 meters. Such columns need to be buried to a depth of 1.2 meters.

Before installing a wooden fence, the posts are dried and treated copper sulfate and coated with primer or oil paint. Then we wrap the lower end of the fence with roofing felt. Such a pole is installed “top down”.