How to install a socket in drywall: installation rules and tips for installing a socket. Tips for Installing an Outlet in a Drywall Wall How to Cut a Hole in Drywall for an Outlet

After drywall has firmly entered the life of builders-finishers, this universal material began to win hearts ordinary people trying to arrange their own home on their own. According to criteria such as ease of installation and ease of use, any finisher will put this material the highest rating. Most often it is used for leveling walls and installing interior partitions. When it comes to electrics, the question arises of how to install an outlet in drywall, whether to do the installation yourself or call an electrician who will put everything right.

In fact, installing outlets in drywall is not particularly difficult. Drilling holes for mounting socket boxes in a plasterboard wall is much easier than in a concrete or brick wall. For these purposes, an ordinary drill is suitable, which is available in the arsenal of almost any owner. To it, you need to purchase a special crown for carving wood. For sockets for drywall, special sockets with “legs” have been created, the fastening of which does not require any accessories. Such boxes are easy to install and do not require professional skills.

Types of sockets and installation locations

Sockets for drywall, like ordinary ones, designed for concrete and brick walls, are of different types:

• with closing curtain. It is designed primarily for the safety of children;
• With increased level moisture protection designed for bathrooms and kitchens;
• with ground contact. They are used to connect household electrical appliances with the necessary grounding.

When choosing outlets, one should proceed from the purpose for which they are intended.

The color and shape of the sockets for drywall is selected depending on finishing materials. Now the market for electrical installation services has an unlimited choice. electrical materials for every discerning taste. When choosing, one should proceed from the purpose for which they are intended.

At this time, there are no specific standards for installing sockets in drywall. How much to install and at what distance from the floor, the decision is purely individual and depends, first of all, on the area and purpose of the room. On average, one socket accounts for about 4-6 square meters. m area. The largest number electrical appliances mainly concentrated in the kitchen. In this room, it is preferable to arrange several outlets in a row. For these purposes, block sockets should be purchased.

The minimum height from the floor at which drywall sockets should be installed must be at least 30 cm. Otherwise, you should focus on your own comfort.

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Cable outlet for electrical installation

For the installation of electrical wiring in a residential area, a cable of the VVgpng LS brand, flat, non-combustible, is suitable.

For sockets for drywall, special sockets are provided, so the wiring must be internal. Hidden wiring by far the most common and safer. Installation of electrical wiring is carried out before sheathing the frame with sheets of plasterboard. In a residential area, a cable of the VVgpng LS brand is intended for this purpose, flat, non-combustible. For laying the cable in the profiles, special holes are provided, which are located at a distance of 1 m from each other. The cable must be in a corrugated pipe with a self-extinguishing probe and brought to the place where it is planned to install the socket in drywall. The cable is mounted both vertically and horizontally, but not inside the profile, but in voids, since the profile is fastened with screws. Only after that the frame is sheathed with sheets of plasterboard.

Tools for work:

• crown with a diameter of 68 mm, designed for cutting holes for socket boxes;
• drill or screwdriver for installing the crown;
• level, marker;
• cross screwdriver.

Materials for work:

• cable brand VVGpng 3x2.5 mm;
• corrugated PVC pipe with a diameter of 20 mm;
• socket boxes for drywall;
• sockets.

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Installation of socket boxes

Installation of sockets is carried out before finishing works. There are two types of socket boxes: single and block, which are joined together. Before drilling a hole, it is necessary to make markings so that the center of the sockets is strictly on the same line. To do this, a horizontal or vertical line is drawn by the level, depending on the location of the sockets, which will mean the axis and center of the sockets. For block sockets, holes are drilled with a distance of 7.2 cm between centers. For cutting holes, a drill with a crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. Installation of block sockets must be done using a level so that the line is even. In the absence of a drill, in extreme cases, holes can be cut in another way. It is necessary to circle the outline of the socket box with a pencil and use a metal file, carefully cutting a hole. GKL sheets are quite soft and easy to cut. The main thing is to do it carefully.

It is important not to damage the gypsum core, otherwise the drywall socket may simply fall into a niche and such a blunder will be very difficult to fix.

The socket should fit snugly in the hole.

After the holes are prepared, you need to make sure that the socket is placed between concrete wall and drywall. If the distance is less than 4.5 cm, it is necessary to make a small recess in the concrete wall, otherwise the installation box will not fit between the wall and the drywall sheet, since its height is 4-4.5 cm.

Now you can bring the cable to the socket and insert the box into the prepared hole. Fastening the socket to drywall is quite simple, but reliable. When tightening the screws, the “legs” on the socket box press it tightly against the drywall sheet.

To date, wall cladding with GKL sheets is used very often. This is convenient, because all the bumps bearing walls and partitions are carefully hidden behind a frame of profiles and plaster. It’s not at all difficult to install an outlet in drywall yourself, even if you are a kettle in an electrician. Next, we will tell you all the nuances of do-it-yourself installation, and also provide visual video instructions and photo examples of each installation step.

Step 1 - Preparatory work

To begin with, you must prepare all the tools and materials for fixing the outlet in drywall. To install the product yourself, you must have:

We draw your attention to the fact that we will provide installation instructions for the product in drywall from the moment the electrical wiring is laid out in all rooms and at the same time all walls will be covered with plasterboard sheets. Learn more about basic electro installation work ah you can in the article - !

Step 2 - Chasing the plaster

So let's move on to the main process. First, according to the wiring diagram, you must determine where you want to cut the hole for installing the socket in drywall partition. In the selected place, put a cross on the drywall with a marker, which will be the center of the future hole. If you decide in plaster wall(several pieces at once), you need to make several round strobes in a row. By the way, the installation height of sockets is not standardized by GOST or PUE rules, so you can place an “electrical point” anywhere you like. To do this, use the building level and one simple rule - the distance between the centers should be 72 mm, as shown in the photo below. Having made the markup, you can proceed to the gating of the GKL sheet.

There is nothing complicated here - set the crown drill in the center of the cross and carefully drill the plaster. The entire tie-in technology is discussed in detail in the video example, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Review possible errors and installation tips

Step 3 - Mounting the socket

Correctly fixing the socket in drywall is not at all difficult. As you can see, there are 4 screws on the case: 2 for fixing the box itself on the wall and 2 for installing the socket. To begin, bring the wires for connection out of the strobe. After that, cut a hole in the bottom of the plastic cup for the input of the power wires. Next, carefully install the socket into the drywall and use two screws to fix the glass in the strobe. Presser feet on opposite sides will securely fix the product in a plasterboard wall.

You should pay attention to the fact that the void between the bearing wall (brick) and the GKL sheet must be at least 45 mm (the height of the socket). If in your case the gap is smaller, you will need to work a little with a puncher - crush a recess in concrete or brick so that the plastic box can be installed without problems. You should also know that you will not be able to properly fix the outlet in drywall without a socket, so immediately anticipate all possible obstacles and remove them before installing the plastic cup.

Step 4 - Connecting the Wires

When you manage to securely install the socket in the wall, you can proceed to connecting the socket in drywall. Connecting the wires is not difficult even for a novice electrician. The main thing is to turn off the electricity at opening plate to avoid electric shock during installation and connection. Before proceeding to electrical work- check the voltage on the wires in the socket using the indicator. If you do not know, we recommend that you read the corresponding article.

All you need to do is connect zero (N, blue), ground (PE, yellow-green) and phase (L, usually brown) to the appropriate terminals on the socket housing. Tighten the wires well so that the contact does not loosen and the plastic does not start to melt after installation and connection, because. in this case, a fire in the house may occur as a result.

AT recent times wall cladding and erection are becoming increasingly popular. And this has its advantages. Firstly, it is its environmental friendliness, fire resistance, moisture resistance and soundproofing ability, and secondly, low price material, as well as the speed of the erected structure. Taking into account the whole process of wall cladding (puttying, painting and wallpapering the walls), the installation of sockets and switches is the final final stage.

Installing sockets and switches in drywall is different from installing in concrete wall. But given that the fastening and installation of sockets and switches in drywall has a number of its own characteristics, you need to take into account in advance important points both before starting installation work and when choosing a material (sockets, switches and socket boxes).

In this article, we want to describe in detail the entire stage of installing a socket in drywall, prepared a video material that clearly describes the steps of installing sockets, and also give advice on choosing the appropriate materials.

Preparatory stages of work

Work on installing sockets and switches in a plasterboard wall is not such a difficult process if you prepare for it in advance and follow the safety rules. The first step is to clearly define the location points in the room where the switches and sockets will be installed, having previously made markings with a pencil in drywall. Make count and buy quantity the right material(sockets and sockets).

Tips on how to choose the right socket video

When purchasing socket boxes, the main thing is not to make a mistake when buying, it is advisable to notify the seller in advance, choose exactly for drywall construction walls, not concrete. It would be better if all fittings (sockets, switches and sockets) are purchased in one specialized store, having checked them for compatibility on the spot, in order to avoid further installation problems. It is also necessary to prepare tools such as an electric drill with a nozzle.

Choosing the location of sockets and switches on the walls

When choosing a place for a switch and sockets in drywall, it is necessary to be based on their convenience in further operation, that is, in those places where electrical appliances (air conditioners, refrigerator, TV, etc.) will be installed in the future, and also harmoniously fit them into general interior of the room.

Trends and times are changing. At the present time, the European standard is recommended.

• The recommended height of sockets from the floor is 30 cm.
• Recommended outlet height above kitchen worktop- 120 cm.
• Recommended outlet height for washing machine 1 meter.
• The recommended height of the switches is 80 cm (At the level of the pubescent arm).

But in some cases, a deviation from the norm is allowed, that is, in those places where it is convenient and justified. For example, if you have a flat screen TV and are mounted with a bracket on the top of the wall, then the best option there will be an installation of an outlet also high behind the TV or next to it (agree, because it’s unpleasant to see how black electrical cable hanging down the wall).

Tips on how to install sockets in a drywall wall with your own hands video

You can also take, for example, the Split system. It is usually installed in the upper part of the room, in which case optimal location socket will be next to the appliance.

Cutting a hole in drywall for the installation of sockets and switches

The process of drilling a hole in a drywall wall is very simple and does not require special skills. To do this, you will need tools such as an electric drill with a round cutter nozzle, in extreme cases, you can use a mounting knife.

The first step is to make a markup with a cross for the future installation of the outlet, using a level and a pencil. When measuring the height before marking, you should take into account the fact that if you have an unfinished subfloor, then you need to take an additional indent of 5 cm (or depending on the thickness of the future coating).

Layout and installation of the block of socket boxes video

A landing hole in a plasterboard wall should be made with a diameter of 68 mm almost back to back. When making a cut, you need to be very careful, do not put pressure on the tool, in order to avoid the formation of torn edges and damage to drywall, which complicates the installation of the socket box (the stop for the clamping feet is lost).

The design of the wall sheathed with plasterboard sheets, consists of metal profiles, making holes for the socket, you can rest against the profile itself, we advise you not to transfer drilled hole, but simply cut out that piece of the profile around the perimeter with a chisel or an ordinary screwdriver.

Installation and installation of a socket in a plasterboard wall

Installing a socket for an outlet in drywall is quite simple. The socket box is the same box (glass) as under a concrete wall, but it has differences in the presence of special legs - fasteners.

Before starting the installation, you need to remove the cable entry blank from the back or side of the box, you choose the option yourself, depending on your convenience.

Installation of a socket in drywall video

Next, you should start the installation itself. Having passed the wires through the prepared hole, you need to fix the devices in a pre-prepared seat by tightening the support mounting screws until the paws are pressed against the sheet. It is advisable to putty the seat in advance for extra strength designs.

Final stage. Installing an outlet

As the installation work on the installation of the socket box has been done, you can proceed with the installation of sockets in drywall following certain rules:

The first step is to remove the top cover of the device by unscrewing the bolt.

Loosen the contacts for attaching the wires.

Insert the wires into the contacts and tighten tightly (to avoid overheating of the wires at the junctions)

Insert the socket onto the box prepared in the plasterboard wall, securing it with fixing screws.

Close the top cover by tightening the screw.

That's the whole process of installing an outlet in drywall, as you can see all the work, following the instructions, you can do it yourself. Additionally, you can watch a video that clearly shows the weight of the installation process.

How to install a socket in a drywall wall with your own hands video

And finally, I would like to warn you that for safety reasons all work is carried out only when the power supply is turned off in the wires.

The fastest and convenient way. Drywall crowns are sold in almost all construction stores and on construction markets. The price of a set, depending on the number of sheets, diameter and manufacturer, is from $2 to $30. The most popular sets with 7 blades with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm with one holder, cutting depth up to 18 mm. The price of such a set is $ 2-5:

For holes with a larger diameter (for example, for installing fixtures), you can buy a set with blades with a diameter of 60, 67, 74, 81, 95 mm with a cutting depth of 32 mm. This set costs $5-8.

To drill a hole required diameter(or close to that), you must first remove all the canvases, slightly turning each clockwise and pulling it towards you, select the canvas of the desired diameter and insert it into place. Drilling takes from 3 to 10 seconds, it takes longer to pick up the canvas. Marking and drilling are made from the front side of the drywall. Holes can be drilled both on plasterboard sheets screwed to the frame, and on sheets that are not fixed in the design position.

It is very convenient, but it happens that in the sets there are no canvases of the desired diameter. For example, to install a socket outlet, the hole should be as precise as possible so that the socket box does not hang out later. In this case, you can use the combined method: first drill a hole with a crown, and then adjust the hole to the desired size with a knife. How this can be done is shown in the video:

If you are only interested in drilling, then watching the video in full is not necessary.

However, crowns may not be at hand, it does not matter, there are other ways to make a hole in the GKL:

2. Cut out with a jigsaw.

An electric jigsaw can make a hole of any geometric shape and size, if necessary, get as close as possible to round hole, side surface GCR is polished with sandpaper.

If you need to make a hole of a very small diameter (20-30 mm), then it is better to use a narrow nail file for cutting holes in the chipboard. But there are limitations: you can’t make a hole on the glued plasterboard with a jigsaw, and if the distance between the base of the wall or ceiling and the front surface of the drywall sheet is less than the height of the jigsaw file at the maximum output of the nail file, then the jigsaw will not help either. But it's not over yet, there are other ways:

3. Drill with a circular drill (nibbler) along the tile - a "ballerina".

In fact, ballerinas are designed for drilling holes in ceramic tiles, but if you have one, you can easily use it, especially since you can set the hole diameter to the nearest millimeter. The price of a "ballerina" is not big - $2-10, which is comparable to the price of a set of crowns. Ballerinas look like this:

A ballerina can drill a hole even in a plasterboard sheet glued to a concrete wall or ceiling, since the ballerina's drill usually has a victorious tip. The only limitation is that the maximum diameter of the hole is limited by the shoulder of the ballerina.

4. A hacksaw blade for metal.

This is the first handy tool. A sheet is removed from a hacksaw for metal, several holes of small diameter are drilled in the plasterboard, and then a sheet is inserted into the holes. To work with a hacksaw blade for metal, special hacksaw handles are sold:

If you need to make a lot of holes, then it is better to buy such a handle. The larger the hole diameter, the easier it is to work. This method has two limitations: the minimum hole diameter is 50 mm (you can, of course, cut a hole of a smaller diameter, but it’s easier to do it in other ways) and you won’t be able to make holes in a GKL glued to a thin layer.

5. Drill with a drill with a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If you are working with drywall, then there is definitely a drill and drills in the house. In this case, the drill replaces the milling cutter, so the drill diameter cannot be too small, otherwise the drill may break, and with a large drill diameter, an extra mechanical work, and holding the drill is harder. This method is good because it is suitable for all cases, but you need to carefully make a hole in this way in the GKL glued to the base. In order to make a hole of the required diameter (or dimensions if the hole is not round), draw the contours of the hole on the drywall sheet, drill the first hole with inside from the line and, without turning off the drill, drive the drill along the line (leaving just in case an indent of 1-2 mm, if the hole must be very accurate), it is advisable to hold the drill with 2 hands. If necessary, get a hole as close as possible to a round one, the side surface of the GKL is polished with a sandpaper.

6. Drill with a drill.

The essence of this method is to make the maximum perforation of the drywall sheet. Near the contours of the hole with a drill of any convenient diameter, many holes are drilled as close as possible to each other. After that, the middle is carefully knocked out, and the remaining teeth are removed first with a knife, then with a sandpaper:

7. Cut with a knife.

The most difficult, long and dangerous method for both you and the GKL, but sometimes you have to use it. The hole is cut in 6-10 passes with a knife. The blade of the knife is extended by 5-8 mm (meaning a simple wallpaper knife), during the first pass the knife is held perpendicular to the GKL. During the second pass, the knife is held with an inclination to one of the sides, during the third pass - with an inclination in the opposite direction. Thus, in 3 passes, a groove is obtained along the contour of the hole with a depth of 2-4 mm. On subsequent passes, the groove deepens until drywall sheet will not cut completely. If you do not use linings, then there is a high probability of breaking off the GCR.

8. Make a tattoo.

If you have children who do not do well in school, do not be discouraged, and from such children there may be great benefit. Take a meter from the preparation - such a thing that looks like a compass, only with needles on both legs, and, setting the meter, make punctures in the sheet every 2-3 mm to the required radius. Cut the cardboard with a knife on both sides along the contour of the hole. After that, it is desirable to put the sheet on supports so that there is no support under the future hole, but there is support next to the hole. Now, with a sharp hammer blow in the center of the contour, you can knock out a hole.

There are other ways, but I think these will be enough for you for the first time, if not, leave a comment, we will take into account.