How to make a country table. DIY table for a circular saw For a strong feast

Wooden table you can do it yourself.

The work is easy and simple to complete, and you can save money.

At the same time, you can make a table yourself, the size and style of which will suit the interior and dimensions of the room to the greatest extent.

To make a table, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• fine, medium and coarse sandpaper;
• grinding machine;
• circular saw or hacksaw for wood;
• sawhorses for sawing lumber;
• brush, roller or spray;
• vacuum cleaner;
• protective clothing, glasses and gloves.

You should also prepare materials. Their choice depends on the idea. But in general these are lumber, plywood, chipboard, MDF, paint material(stain, varnish, paint, etc.), fasteners (screws, staples, etc.). In some cases, upholstery material will also be needed. When choosing a finishing material, it is recommended to take into account the overall style of the room.

When making a table and working with tools, safety precautions must be observed. It is recommended to wear closed clothing, gloves and safety glasses. They will protect against damage and sawdust getting into your eyes.

There are many options for a table that you can make with your own hands; you should choose the most suitable one. Several of them are discussed below.

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Height-adjustable table

How to make a table with adjustable legs? It is necessary to prepare materials: plywood or MDF, four adjustable wooden supports, paint and screws. Supports can be bought in specialized stores (such as the famous Ikea). It is recommended to make a table measuring 120x50 cm. If plywood or MDF larger size, then you will need a saw to cut the material. To do this, the required dimensions are marked on the sheet, after which the excess pieces are cut off. Depending on the purpose and features of use, you can cut a hole in the tabletop for laying the cable.

After sawing, the surface of the tabletop must be sanded. This depends on the initial state of the material. In some cases, the surface is already sanded. After sanding, the surface should be wiped and any remaining dust and chips removed.

Depending on the surface treatment, sandpaper of different grain sizes is used. To remove the top layer - P40 paper, to remove irregularities - P80, for final sanding - P360.

The next stage is processing paint coating table tops and supports. Depending on the idea and the overall interior, you can use paint, stain, varnish, etc. for this. The composition can be applied using a brush, roller or spray.

After the paint has dried, all elements should be brought into the room. It is better to bring everything in disassembled to make it easier to pass through doorways. Next, the supports are screwed to the tabletop using screws. It is better to install supports at a distance of 10 cm from each edge of the tabletop. Each support is screwed with three screws. It is recommended to cover the fastener heads or cover them with plugs.

Now the table, made by yourself, is completely ready for use. A adjustable legs allow you to install the tabletop at any convenient height.

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Bedside table

It is made similarly to an adjustable table, the only difference is in size and color. In addition, in this case, ordinary supports are used.

But you can get creative and make a bedside table combined with a bedside table. In this case, you need to focus on the cabinet.

The size of the tabletop should correspond to the size of the bedside table (at least in depth). To do this, the table top is cut out of plywood or MDF according to the marks made and sanded.

It is better to use as supports wooden legs, so that they can be filed to obtain the same height as the cabinet. After preparation, all elements are painted.

Supports are installed on one side of the tabletop. They are secured with self-tapping screws.

The final stage is sealing the fasteners and decorating.

When making a bedside table, it can be painted to match the cabinet or, conversely, in contrast. This will give the bedroom a special flair.

In addition to these two options, there are many other ways to make a table. This can be a kitchen table, a coffee table, or other types of tables. Instead of sheets of plywood or MDF, you can use boards.

You can give the table a special twist. You don’t have to paint its surface, but upholster it. To do this, select a suitable fabric (for example, denim, linen, etc.), and cut out the required piece. After this, the tabletop is turned upside down and laid on the material. The edges of the fabric are secured with a stapler. To improve the quality of finishing around the perimeter of the tabletop, the material is additionally secured with decorative nails. When upholstering, you must ensure that the fabric lies flat, without folds or distortions.

Thus, making a table yourself is quite easy and simple. In this case, you can get an attractive and unique piece of furniture.

A table is the second item after a stool that a novice amateur furniture maker should take on. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious, comfortable table for the country house or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative expression; it can be a significant and even key element of interior design; it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, it will be possible over time to take up exclusive tables, the rest of the poses. right there.

This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but fine work woodworking requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodworking, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means tinting and protecting wood, like stains, emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.

An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if you get help modern achievements, right there:

• Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with the complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual jigsaw with a tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface on which experienced carpenter with the skin in hand it will take at least an hour, and the tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; there is more belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
• It is also preferable to rent at first hand router on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges and select holes and grooves.

In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, a jointer, a wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:

The breeds are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting of horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper is not carried out at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and juniper is endangered and is protected. Industrial harvests of elm are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapon stocks; full-fledged plastic replacement they don't have one yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.

Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness; the most delicate carvings on walnut do not chip. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

For a pine tabletop made of boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, they turn out to be layers of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like this kind of wood: the production cycle is delayed and waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.

Wooden pot

Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many deciduous species also have it. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

Free means of protecting wood from rotting - used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with EPE is suitable for furniture front panels: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior in all respects acrylic varnishes on water based; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them until they are tack-free before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable for yourself.

Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. For touch-up assembled units You can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.

First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by completely dry varnish Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine one, on the left in the figure. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, small tools are placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.

The next one in order of complexity is known to everyone country table- goats, colloquially goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the tabletop can be made longer.

Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a table top, its supporting frame, possibly with niches and/or mechanisms, or simply a plate - a base - legs, and the nodes that hold everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the most hard rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, e.g. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for tables industrial production fastened with detachable drawers, see fig. right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings and complete lack of advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach legs with a round head and any legs in general, but you need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.

Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. IN small apartment With narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to fit into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly secured legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the leg.

Enough quality tables on turned legs, simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

Tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is produced in the form of so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m thick 20-60 mm with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.

Postforming is well purchased by small furniture enterprises. They always have his waste; of them you are willing and for completely affordable price They will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. cover the end PVC edging(edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profiles, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.
• The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the edging ridge must be selected manually disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.
• Before installing the edging, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the ridge ridge may simply crumple.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the vime are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; The rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rafting on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.

Countertops are often assembled without rims on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic film. It will not be possible to assemble a good plank board on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling it. But in the right hands, stacked tabletops made from fragments are simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.

Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.

Underframe

Table base with fixed legs - simple wooden frame, left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.

Without frame

Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: load-bearing frame made; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.

... and we find ourselves in the kitchen

That's right. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. Aesthetic appearance very desirable, but not decisive: suddenly you messed up the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.

If you're not too lazy to put your hands to it, steel legs you can do it yourself. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin, the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.

In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. drawings kitchen table in rustic style. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail or metal fasteners at all. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, and is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) tied up, but even a child will break it twig by twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a table top assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.

Note: The idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in the figure; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. Above on the right is a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business table. Its feature is minimum quantity connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut tree stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (two-hundred-piece board) or laminated chipboard.

Let's go further: to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should suit the whole house. At the same time, when modern aspiration to the laconicism of the design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.

For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. These are essentially 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And when you turn it around, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or intimate gatherings with friends.

All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because a book-like mechanism can still be made independently, but an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.

How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but for an amateur it is better to opt for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; as a last resort, replace it. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be brought to fruition, but a spring table can almost always be brought to fruition. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the presence of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. Factory transformable coffee table Rarely does it cost less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we’ll leave banquet tables for the living room more or less fully, as they say, for later: these are products more high order complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern mechanisms extension with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving the tabletop halves apart, the inserts are lifted, unfolded and put into place or put back into the underframe by a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for making at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we will get the board back into the table, and our portion of the treat will be used for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at the beginning.

In addition

You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, not just with stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of renewing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.

Video: master class on wood glazing

For greater convenience, the hand-held circular saw can be mounted on a table. This design will help you process and saw wooden parts quickly and without problems.

Working with a circular saw mounted on a special table greatly simplifies the cutting process and is safe when using special tools.

In this article we will tell you for manual circular saw with your own hands.

Circular saw table design

The table base for a circular saw can be wooden or metal.

The table top is made of metal or sheet wood materials. A hole is made in it for a circular saw blade.

Supports ride along guides in the tabletop, which move timber and any other sawing material.

First of all, the table should be comfortable, stable (not wobble!), and the surface of the tabletop should be flat. These factors will help a person avoid injury during work.

The hole in the base is cut for a specific brand of saw

Before you begin cutting material and assembling circular table, you need to calculate its dimensions and make a drawing.

The hole in the base must correspond to the dimensions of the circular saw platform. For each brand of saw this will be a specific size.

The slab installed on the tabletop should not overhang the table to one side - the base must be resistant to external mechanical loads.

The dimensions of the tabletop must correspond to the flow.

For some, a folding table is enough, small table with removable circular saw. People who have a spacious workshop need full table for a circular saw or even a circular saw.

Please note: if you plan to leave materials on the table while working, then the area of ​​the tabletop should be at least square meter. Optimal size for such a table 120 x 120 cm.

Materials from which you can make a table for cutting wood:

• solid wood;
• Chipboard, chipboard, MDF, plywood;
• metal (steel or aluminum).

Plastic is not suitable as a material for making a saw table.

Prior to final assembly, all wooden parts of the table should be protected from moisture and rot.

To make a saw table with your own hands, we will need the following materials:

• Laminated chipboard or plywood 21 mm thick;
• timber for the table frame (can be used edged board 50 x 150 mm 3 meters long – 5 pcs.);
• wooden dowels 10 mm – 12 pcs.;
• wood glue;
• metal fastenings for drawers and legs – 4 pcs.;
• metal corners– 10 pcs.;
• self-tapping screws

Tools required for work:

• pencil, marker, tape measure, meter;
• jigsaw;
• manual ;
• grinding machine;
• medium and fine grit sandpaper;
• plane;
• drill;
• screwdriver

Step 1. First, use a plane to trim all sides of the beam. We assemble the table frame from the timber: in each side of the tabletop we drill two 5 mm holes for dowels for each drawer and one hole for each table leg.

Step 2. You need to make two holes (5 mm) in the drawers, and one hole (5 mm) in the legs.

Step 3. We install the dowels into the tabletop, having previously lubricated them with wood glue. Tsars and legs are installed on top.

If you have clamps with ties, you can secure the table with them. After the glue has completely dried, the drawers are fastened to the legs and to each other with special metal fasteners for tables and tightened with self-tapping screws.

Please note: the table will be stronger and more stable if you use metal corners for additional fastening of the tabletop: two on the short side and three on the long side.

Step 4. Now you need to secure the circular saw to inside countertops. There can be two options: fasten the saw platform with M4 bolts or fasten the platform using bars with self-tapping screws. The first option is faster and more reliable. The second option does not require drilling holes in the metal pad for bolts.

Step 5. You can secure the saw with bolts or bars with self-tapping screws. We will fasten with blocks, so we make a cut in small blocks the width of the saw platform. Using blocks with self-tapping screws on both sides, we fasten the circular saw to the tabletop.

Step 6. When the saw is installed, take another larger block and screw it to the tabletop with self-tapping screws (directly to the previously marked points along which the saw platform was aligned exactly). This block is necessary so that later, when removing the saw from the table, you can quickly return it to its place without resorting to markings.

Step 7 Place the circular saw blade in place and saw through the tabletop to create a longitudinal hole. Turn the tabletop over.

Step 8 We make a parallel stop. To do this, we saw off two strips of plywood with a length equal to the width of the table and a width of about 8–10 cm. We round the corners using a protractor and a pencil.

Step 9 We sand both strips and fasten them using self-tapping screws at an angle. We screw a metal corner inside.

Step 10 When constantly working with a table for a circular saw and the need to secure the stop on the tabletop, a guide is fixed perpendicular to the disk. The roller or the second part of the guide is attached to the bottom of the fence so that the fence can move up / away from the circular saw blade.

Workplace safety

In order to avoid injury during work, it is necessary to carefully monitor the position of the saw table, its stability, and strength.

Before each use of the circular saw, check that it is securely in place.

Holding the cut material with your hands is strictly prohibited! This can lead to injury to your fingers or the wood to bounce into your face when hit by knots or uneven surfaces.

Also, to avoid eye injury, be sure to wear safety glasses while working.
Don't neglect these simple rules, take care of your own health.

For more information on how to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands, see the following video:

Arranging a summer house is a constant process. Either you build something or improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put it in the garden, and near the house, and also in . We will tell you how to make a table for a summer house with your own hands in this article using the example of ready-made projects.

Homemade table from pallet boards

The material for this table was disassembled pallets. Naturally, you can use new boards. There is only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (this costs more) or buy regular ones, put them somewhere in ventilated stacks and keep them for at least 4 months, or better yet, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.

We are assembling a table for the street - to put it in a gazebo, so we will not glue the boards of the tabletop, but will fasten them from below, using planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Having disassembled the pallets, we get boards with individual colors and patterns. Having worked a little magic, rearranging them several dozen times in different ways, we achieve the required result. It turns out to be quite a nice tabletop.

Take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the table frame. We first sand them with coarse sandpaper, then fine sand them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

We take the planks that remained unused and use them to fasten the tabletop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two screws to fasten each board with a joint, and one for a solid one.

From the treated sidewalls and two boards (also sanded) we assemble the table frame. We fasten its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only they are long. For each, we pre-drill holes with a drill whose diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws.

We turn the assembled tabletop over and sand it. The order is the same - first sandpaper with large grains, then with small grains.

Next is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, and adjust if necessary. Then - sanding again. This is easier than sanding the legs that are already screwed on. We screw the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each there are two self-tapping screws, fixed diagonally (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. You can leave about 10 cm from the floor to the lintels. We connect everything with self-tapping screws, so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.

After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but it depends on the wood, so another sanding/painting cycle may be needed. As a result, we get this homemade country table.

If you don’t like mismatched boards and traces of old nails, you can make the same design into boards. This table can be rectangular, or square. All sizes are arbitrary - please see the space available.

Country table made from leftover boards

This DIY garden table is assembled from leftover boards different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide were used for the tabletop frame, and 15*50 mm leftovers for the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, which is small in width. So let's make it narrow - 60 cm, and length 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).

Immediately cut two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the tabletop width 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following right angles, twist with self-tapping screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.

We cut the boards into four 80 cm boards and attach them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.

At approximately the middle of the height of the legs we attach the crossbars. This is a frame for a shelf. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor and check whether it wobbles or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a sander and sand.

Let's start assembling the tabletop. From finishing works There were boards of different types of wood left, some painted with stain. We alternate boards of different colors.

We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them off with a hammer. You can secure it to the shelf with regular nails or self-tapping screws. Then we level it with a sander. The last stage is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. We bought it too dark and didn’t like the look. I'll have to sand it again and paint it a different color.

Wooden table with glued top

This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case 20 mm. In order for them to hold well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. We pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter 1-2 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws. Then, using a drill of a larger diameter, we drill recesses for the caps. Diameter can be matched to furniture plugs suitable color or make them from wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, the marks will be difficult to find.

When assembling the legs, you must ensure that the angle is exactly 90°. You can choose timber as a pattern. First, coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with wood glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two outer ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue has dried, we sand the legs, varnish them and dry them.

It's time to make the tabletop. We assemble it from boards of the same thickness. We select the size as needed. You can use fragments different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and that the sides of the boards are smooth and fit together without gaps.

We coat the sides of the boards selected for the tabletop with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, we got by with one, but preferably at least three. We tighten it so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. Leave it for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished tabletop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or regular hand saw. It's difficult to get a straight line using an angle grinder, but you can try. After sanding we get a beautiful table top.

Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round tabletop. You just need to draw the appropriate line and trim the glued boards along it.

To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin strip, sand it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the tabletop. You can also use finishing nails. Only we also first coat the planks with wood glue, and then with nails.

After the glue has dried, we sand the joint again with sandpaper.

Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We attach it to back side glue the tabletops, then install them through the tabletop furniture confirmations. A preliminary hole with an extension for the cap is drilled for the confirmations. The holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.

We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We place them inside the frame. You can attach it with regular self-tapping screws. That's it, we made a table for the cottage with our own hands.

How to make a garden table from wood with benches

For this table we used 38*89 mm boards (we unraveled them ourselves), but you can take standard sizes. A difference of millimeters will not greatly affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.

To connect the parts, 16 cm long studs with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.

The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and the nuts are tightened. Everything is catching up wrench. Why is this option convenient? For the winter you can disassemble it and take it to a barn or garage.

Making seats

According to the drawing, we cut the boards to the required size. Everything is needed in double quantities - for two seats. We sand the boards, special attention pay attention to the ends.

The short sections that we use to fasten the three boards of the seat along the edges are cut at an angle of 45°. First, we assemble the structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long and attach two short boards sawn at an angle to the end of it. You need to attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.

We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is an outdoor table, there is no need to knock them together closely. Leave a gap between two adjacent ones of at least 5 mm. We nail it to the supports (which have been sawn down), two for each board.

We fasten the finished seats using four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with hairpins (if you walk, you can put two hairpins, installing them diagonally or one above the other).

Assembling the table

The table is assembled according to a different principle. Please note that for the tabletop, the transverse boards along the edges are cut at 52°. We attach them at such a distance that the legs fit in. 2 nails for each board. You can use finishing ones, with small heads, or you can drive them deep and then mask the holes with putty.

Now we need to assemble the cross legs. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We outline the intersection with a pencil. At this point you will need to remove the wood to half the thickness of the board.

We make the same notch on the second board. If you fold them, they turn out to be in the same plane. We connect with four nails.

We make the second table leg in the same way. We are not assembling the table yet.

Installing the table

Now you need to attach the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We place them at an equal distance from the benches and fasten them with pins.

Now we install the tabletop. We also fasten it with pins. The last stage is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.

Variations on a theme

According to this drawing, you can make separate benches and a table for a summer house or garden. The design is reliable and simple to implement.

DIY garden table: drawings

It has been proven that constant sitting leads to blood stagnation and the formation of many diseases. Academician Nikolai Amosov also spoke about the importance of standing work. He argued that our brain functions more productively if a person does writing while standing.

You can work standing at the computer using a special table

But previously, all tables in schools, universities and offices were low. Now engineers have solved this problem by inventing a table that can be easily adjusted in height.

Mobile desk for standing work

In order for the body to be in a comfortable position while working, the furniture must correspond to the geometry of our body

Table for standing and sitting work with electric lift ergostol in working position

The main essence of this invention is clear from the name. The highlight is that the table can change and fix the height at any level due to its design. So, it consists of:

The table can also have an additional vertical board-screen for mounting a monitor. Depending on the modification, the product is supplemented with cabinets, niches, and a footrest. A common option is an addition in the form of a processor mount. For convenience, the monitor and system unit screwed to the table.

Height-adjustable desk with attached system unit

Since you sometimes have to change the height, this addition is very convenient. For models with electric lift, there is a remote control that displays the lifting height in centimeters, which allows you to remotely adjust the lift.

The upper border of the monitor should be at eye level; for this you can install the monitor on a stand or a special bracket

The lifting weight varies from 55 to 200 kilograms depending on the base material and design. The system can have any shape and dimensions. It all depends on the parameters you need. If you are fascinated by this invention and you decide to purchase it, pay attention to the existing variety of models.

Ergostol table height-adjustable with electric drive

Species

High-quality organization of a schoolchild’s workplace (growing desk + orthopedic chair) allows the child’s body to be in a natural position

Laptop table for standing and sitting work

We can divide existing models according to several criteria. They will also become a checklist when choosing a product. So:

Table with mechanical height adjustment

The simplest form is a table with mechanical system lifting without additions. Its cost will be around 14 thousand. Russian rubles. If you want a motorized table and additional functions, expect to spend from 30 thousand rubles on it.

Table with electrically adjustable heights

Advantages and Disadvantages

Standing corner desk with electrical height adjustment

New products are always hotly discussed. The present invention did not avoid this action either. Judging by the reviews and personal experience use, we have identified the positive and negative aspects of a table with a lifting mechanism.

Height-adjustable desks in office interiors

Table model with height adjustment mechanism - extra-long gas lift

If the table height is adjusted correctly, the angle at the elbow joint will be 90 degrees or slightly more

The most significant advantage that attracts modern business people– this is the ability to work in standing and sitting positions. But despite all the advantages, opponents also found some disadvantages of the design.

• High cost.
• It becomes unusable faster than a regular table, due to the fact that the mechanism is often used.

You can place a special adjustable Ergosmart console on the table and work while standing or sitting

Whether to purchase a table with these characteristics or not is up to you. However, judging by a large number positive feedback, it is a useful invention. Don't forget about proper care behind the mechanism, and your table will last a long time, bringing only benefits and positive emotions.

Desk with adjustable top height from Ikea

Video: Electric height-adjustable table Ergostol Duo