What to do if tulip bulbs become moldy. Rot on tulips, protecting tulips from rot. Fusarium - wet rot

14.10.2005, 14:34

Urgently need advice. because it is high time to plant tulips. I have never grown tulips. Somehow I was a little indifferent to them. It was only here in England that I realized I was wrong. For example, red tulips remind me of the May holidays in Russia and simply evoke nostalgia for the Russian spring. and only here I saw how diverse and beautiful tulips can be and how beautiful they look in compositions in flower beds.
So, I want to plant for the first time. ordered by mail tulips from J.Parker. like a well-known company, but the bulbs came and almost all moldy. I think that they are not healthy, they did not store well, or they get sick? Or I'm wrong? :clueless: Who planted such bulbs (maybe only slightly touched in places by "mold") .. Did the tulips come up or not? I think to return the bulbs, but I really want to plant these varieties ....? :girl2:

14.10.2005, 15:58

planted tulips many times, including from parkers, there were no problems. so, if the bulbs are slightly moldy, wipe them with a dry cloth and leave them in a cool dry place for a few days, the mold will return, send them back, no, then plant them, and it is very difficult to plant them late. a couple of years ago, several bulbs of black tulips were lost in my greenhouse, planted in February, all of them came out, although in this case, if they climb out in the same year, they do not bloom, but only next year. so you definitely have time until December. besides, I'm in the north of the country and if I'm fine with them, then you should succeed too.

14.10.2005, 16:05

14.10.2005, 16:09

urgently need advice. because it is high time to plant tulips.

With the climate here, you still have a couple of months left. you can plant. :)

14.10.2005, 16:13

Why not? :clueless:

14.10.2005, 16:24

normal tulips, if not every year, then in a year they produce for themselves Lyalek-such smaller bulbs next to the big mother: gy:. Dig carefully, divide what you need back into the ground, keep what you want to send in a cool, dry place, so that when the husk becomes like an onion, send it dry to your mother, wrapping it in something like a net from under the same bow and piercing the box itself in several places to breathe.

14.10.2005, 16:53

14.10.2005, 17:16

You can :) I sent it to my mother more than once by ordinary parcel.

14.10.2005, 17:20

only there is no guarantee that they will survive our climate ... :)

Survive. My mother really lives in the south of Russia on the Sea of Azov, but there are also frosts down to -20. I sent a lot of things and tulips, and daffodils, and crocuses and a lot of other things, everything took root and bloomed. :hb15:

14.10.2005, 17:24

So, I want to plant for the first time. ordered by mail tulips from J.Parker. like a well-known company, but the bulbs came and almost all moldy. I think that they are not healthy, they did not store well, or they get sick? Or I'm wrong? :clueless: Who planted such bulbs (maybe only slightly touched in places by "mold") .. Did the tulips come up or not? I think to return the bulbs, but I really want to plant these varieties ....? :girl2:

And once I planted tulips with mold, so they didn’t sprout, only a couple, but they didn’t bloom. So I don't risk moldy anymore. :isee:

14.10.2005, 22:02

Oh, what a useful section, now I'm going to be manic (?) here !!! :shy67:
I buy bulbs from http://www.blomsbulbs.com, they have spring blooming bulbs there.
And in spring they have a collection of summer bulbs and rare plants.
Lilies are amazing!
And I would send the moldy bulbs back, first discussing with them what, how and why. Since a diseased bulb = not high-quality flowering and a lot of torment. It depends on what, but the earth can also become infected, so next year you will have to shovel everything and report new compost.

Andrey, tulips are different in terms of flowering, and the aroma of tulips is so pleasant that it’s just a fairy tale. But not all of them are fragrant. :girl2:

14.10.2005, 22:21

thanks, but for some reason I thought that quarantine and all that ...: shy67:

14.10.2005, 22:33

14.10.2005, 22:47

And I would send the moldy bulbs back, first discussing with them what, how and why. Since a diseased bulb = not high-quality flowering and a lot of torment. It depends on what, but the earth can also become infected, so next year you will have to shovel everything and report new compost.
But, in general, yes, potassium permanganate with a weak solvent is possible if your own, not purchased bulbs.
:
I also don't think it's worth the risk. Thanks for the site, it's helpful.
I am also an interesting site
http://www.skygarden.ru/texts/tulips_agro.html and it tells a lot of interesting things about tulips and viral variegation - (the most dangerous disease for tulips). Perhaps therefore, it is better not to risk with moldy bulbs. It's a pity. :girl2:

15.10.2005, 10:38

Oh, thank you very much everyone for the answers very interesting and helpful information, I will try. :hb15:
As I understand it, England has a mild climate, and the bulbs can be left for the summer and not dug up, or is it better to dig up? How are you doing? :clueless:
Our partner from Holland sent a Christmas present - boxes with tulip bulbs! I got Tulipa Yokohama. They look great. It says on the box - Never plant tulips in the same location two years in a row; vary the location next year. Plant in groups for best results.

15.10.2005, 11:18

and as I planted all my bulbous flowers, I didn’t dig out more. we have such a terrible land in the garden, solid clay and stones. planting something every time is a pain. the other day (just laughing) I could pull a carrot out of the ground :).

15.10.2005, 15:40

Our partner from Holland sent a Christmas present - boxes with tulip bulbs! I got Tulipa Yokohama. They look great. It says on the box - Never plant tulips in the same location two years in a row; vary the location next year. Plant in groups for best results.

They also sent tulips last year - we have a lot of them in the garden!
Are they yellow ones with sharp petals? :)

15.10.2005, 15:43

My mother's experience was unsuccessful (central Ukraine) - half rotted, the other - sprouted, but short and not everything bloomed. This year, something happened, but also not a lot.
On the other hand, the hyacinths have spread in lush color ... And not only store-bought ones, but also those that she pulled in my garden, almost half-empty bulbs.

15.10.2005, 16:41

16.10.2005, 19:37

Oh, thank you all very much for the answers, very interesting and useful information, I will try. :hb15:
As I understand it, England has a mild climate, and the bulbs can be left for the summer and not dug up, or is it better to dig up? How are you doing? :clueless:

If you do not dig up, there will be more flowers in number, but smaller in size. And they will get smaller and smaller every year. So I try to dig every 3 years.

16.10.2005, 20:09

16.10.2005, 20:40

my tulip

16.10.2005, 20:41

how to find out what color, I bought it should have been all red, and when they got out it turned out that half were yellow.

That's so beautiful. It is usually written on the packaging. And what kind is it? Very unusual.

16.10.2005, 20:51

That's so beautiful. It is usually written on the packaging. And what kind is it? Very unusual.

On the package it was written that all were red, but half of them were yellow.

16.10.2005, 20:55

On the package it was written that all were red, but half of them were yellow.
I brought a lot from Amsterdam, but this year they began to crawl out very early, somewhere in Feral, and in March it was strong wind and broke half. If in next year grow well, I'll show you there even more beautiful.

Will wait. :)

16.10.2005, 21:54

16.10.2005, 22:00

Forest, Thank you for posting your photos on this site, it is immediately more interesting to read. When spring comes, I'll show you something too. if anything.. :D

16.10.2005, 23:20

Oh, like Forest, well, spacious. Do you have a wooded area opposite? (I thought so, because there are no houses visible on the opposite side) And between the tulips-roses? And I still see my favorite cherry. Unfortunately, I don't have room for her. :shy67: And so, I like it very much.

Yes, these are roses, as soon as the tulips start to come out, I spur the roses.
While the tulips are blooming, the roses are growing up. And there is just a plot opposite us, it belongs to everyone here. The gardener comes to us to clean it up, we pay him everything once a year.

17.10.2005, 21:55

I haven’t planted any tulips in the last three years or more, I’ve never dug up, and this is in the north of Scotland. also with all bulbs, with the exception of dahlia tubers, they die from frost. I, like daffodils, will dig them up and divide them every five years, maybe 4, if it’s very crowded. last winter I divided my daffodils, as they grew very densely. don't think it's worth the tulips every year if they're in the ground. in pots it is easier, but then they produce fewer baby bulbs.

17.10.2005, 22:16

Have you grown gladioli, do all the books advise you to dig up the bulbs for the winter? Is it worth it to suffer or do they calmly survive the local climate?

My gladioli survive the winter (as I already said, lazy, I don’t transplant anything).

17.10.2005, 22:26

I was disappointed in tulips and daffodils, I have a lot of them, while they are blooming - beauty is indescribable, they have faded and you don’t know how to cover the faded sticks, it looks very untidy. I shoveled the garden this year, transplanted everything I found, under the bushes, under the fences, in groups, I'll see what happens. but, she planted snowdrops and crocuses visibly-invisibly - they fade and somehow imperceptibly hide. I generally made a conclusion for myself, you need to plant plants side by side, blooming one after another, so that the new ones cover the old ones.

17.10.2005, 22:40

Have you grown gladioli, do all the books advise you to dig up the bulbs for the winter? Is it worth it to suffer or do they calmly survive the local climate?

I planted gladioli this year, got it very cheaply at the end of June, planted it at the beginning of July, now they are blooming with might and main, I won’t dig out, mother laziness. Let's see what happens. If they don’t die for me, then no one should die, we have the first frosts somewhere at the very end of August-the very beginning of September, the last at the end of May.

17.10.2005, 22:57

17.10.2005, 23:20

Therefore, I planted snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, anemones, hyacinths, tulips, irises, hazel grouses, lilies, callas, ixias, and many other bulbs in the same place, which I don’t remember, some have faded, others are blooming, and all this mixed with a couple of hydrangea bushes, black elderberry, a couple of dwarf rhododendrons, magnolia, mock orange, 3 beautiful fruits (?? in the name, this is Callicarpa profusion). Constantly something blooms, especially dying foliage is not noticeable.
I'm gaining experience, but I'm not in a hurry, I'll see what happens in the spring, I really like it when flowers of one color in one place, another in another, for example, a group of whites, red next to them, then yellow and blue, and not mixed ..

17.10.2005, 23:30

I plant tulips in pots. :shy67: Then I bury the pots in the ground, it seems that it would not be visible. :tsss: Then, as they fade, I take it out and rearrange it in another place, and then I plant the summer seedlings. If they were landed in a "strategic" place. You can also choose different varieties, which will bloom one after another, such as early, mid season, then late.
Daffodils, as the grass withers and turns yellow, I cut it. Peeped out the window at work. There, the uncle gardener manages so well with entire fields of daffodils! :yo: Binds from such neat sheaves, even ornamentally turns out, and then, after a while, just cuts.
The rest of the crocuses and anemones themselves somehow disappear from view.

18.10.2005, 15:52

I plant tulips in pots. Then I bury the pots in the ground, it seems that it would not be visible. :tsss: Then, as they fade, I take it out and rearrange it in another place, and then I plant the summer seedlings. If they were landed in a "strategic" place.
And tulips, of course, stand like mugs, turn yellow. But not in plain sight. :sweet:

18.10.2005, 17:40

And this is an interesting thought. :hb15: Do they have enough space in a pot? Tulip bulbs have a large root system? What size are your pots? It's easier and the earth periodically change in pots ... :yo:
it’s enough, I plant different things in pots in a cycle, it fades, I transfer the pot to the backyard out of sight, I endure something else. And tulips, and various other bulbs, now in a conspicuous place is a pot with beautiful fuchsia.

18.10.2005, 20:53

If anyone needs bulbs of tulips and other flowers, they sell £2 buy one get one free in Poundstretcher, I bought it for myself, but I have no idea where to plant it. :clueless:

19.10.2005, 13:51

And this is an interesting thought. :hb15: Do they have enough space in a pot? Do tulip bulbs have a large root system? What size are your pots? It's easier and the earth periodically change in pots ... :yo:
It is necessary to select a pot in such a way that tulips are planted approximately at a depth of three bulb sizes, and for the roots, so that there are at least two or three bulb sizes. Bulbs should not be planted directly side to side, it is necessary to retreat a little. Usually there are 5 pieces in one pot, sometimes 7. :)

19.10.2005, 14:09

It is necessary to select a pot in such a way that tulips are planted approximately at a depth of three bulb sizes, and for the roots, so that there are at least two or three bulb sizes. Bulbs should not be planted directly side to side, it is necessary to retreat a little. Usually there are 5 pieces in one pot, sometimes 7. :)

Here's a good idea, I'll plant it in a pot, otherwise I bought, where I don’t know how to plant. Please tell me, should I plant it in a pot now or in the spring?

19.10.2005, 21:15

Here's a good idea, I'll plant it in a pot, otherwise I bought it yesterday, but I don't know where to plant it. Please tell me, should I plant it in a pot now or in the spring?
Until the end of November, although December is also not too late. They need the cold to "wake up" the bulb to bloom.

19.10.2005, 23:45

Yes, but you can now. And put it somewhere, where the frost, if it happens, will not catch it, but as the Doctor said, in a cool place. Or just dig the pot into the ground where necessary, just do not forget to water, because they are in a pot, not in the ground. If you leave it in a shed, if there is frost, then you will need to cover it.

Bulb flowers are magnificent creations, often suitable for cutting and simply for decorating a site, and of any type. Lukovichnykh flower plants there are a lot, it makes no sense to list them all, we will give examples of only a few, especially widespread ones:, hemanthus, nerine, lily and gladiolus, remember? We think so. Bulbous plants in general, and those listed in particular, are very delicate and capricious, they require care and attention, nutritious and loose soil, and plenty of moisture. Especially carefully and attentively it is necessary to treat the storage of the bulbs of these plants, because from a poorly preserved, dried up or starting to rot bulbs, a normal plant will not work. Normal, if you do not take the necessary measures to return the bulb to its healthy, close to original state, otherwise it will be easier to simply throw it away.
So, not everyone knows that the bulbs should be stored before planting in a dark room with a temperature of about 4 degrees Celsius. Such a place is, for example, a refrigerator (not a freezer!). If suddenly at the end of the storage period the bulb looks wrinkled, perhaps the room was more heat, which led to excessive evaporation of moisture by the shares of the bulb. It is dangerous to plant such a bulb; at best, a weakened plant will grow out of it. Before landing, it is desirable to restore water balance. To do this, the bulb should be wrapped with a gauze cloth well mixed in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate. The concentration of the solution cannot be exceeded, otherwise you can simply burn the tissue of the bulb and make it even worse. Usually, after just a couple of days after this procedure, the bulb takes on a normal appearance and becomes completely ready for planting.
In the event that, after storage, the bulb looks wilted, partially or completely lost turgor, then it should be reanimated in a slightly different way. To do this, you need to buy any growth stimulant, such as Epin, Heteroauxin, Kornevin or any other, and place it in a solution of this drug, diluted according to the instructions on the package. After this time, the bulb, as a rule, restored its normal condition, can be planted in the ground.
After storage on the bulb, you can also find places or scales that begin to rot, this often happens when the room is very damp (more than 85% humidity). Most the right way- try to clean the rotten places to healthy tissue, and then treat the bulbs with ordinary brilliant green. After processing, put the bulb, without washing off the brilliant green, in damp moss and pack it all in a regular newspaper, and then put it in a plastic bag, in which make 3-4 holes in a pair on each side. Holes are needed for ventilation, otherwise the bulb may ban. In this state, before planting, the bulb should lie for at least 2-3 days.
In the event that there is no brilliant green or moss at hand, then after removing the rot, the bulb can be placed in an ordinary gauze cloth, previously well moistened. In gauze, the bulb should lie for about a day, after which it must be transferred to river sand for further recovery. river sand at the same time, it should be slightly moist, but in no case oversaturated with moisture. You can keep the bulb in the sand for 2-3 days, after which it must be removed and dried for open space, under the rays of the sun, without additional heating. After drying, the bulb, as a rule, is completely ready for planting on the site.
Sometimes, for especially negligent owners, the bulbs can freeze slightly. There is no point in planting them in this form, resuscitation measures are needed here too. You can cure frostbite on the bulb as follows. To begin with, the bulb needs to be soaked for a day in a growth stimulant already familiar to us (Heteroauxin, Kornevin and others), then removed from the solution and sprinkled with dry peat, then place the bulb with peat in the refrigerator and store until planting (at least a day).
And one more thing, if after thawing the bulb is excessively soft and releases moisture even with a slight pressure on it, then most likely it will not be possible to reanimate it.
Of course, all these activities are quite complex and it is reasonable to carry them out only if planting material, in this case, the bulbs, are of high value. For example, this is a rare collection variety, or just an old favorite cultivar, which is now extremely difficult to get. In other cases, it would be more correct to simply get rid of the lost natural look planting material and get a new one.
N.V. Khromov, Ph.D. biol. Sciences

Most of the blooms bulbous plants planted in short autumn terms. I consider the most successful period for this. Unfortunately, this is not always possible. Sometimes there is no time for landings. Or the planting material was purchased too late. And "Indian summer" pleases not every year. It happens that bulbs or corms dug out of the ground and left for storage are found only by the end of autumn.

What to do with this "wealth"? I remember well how in November I persuaded my neighbors to take a bucket of tulip and daffodil bulbs. It so happened that it was discovered in the corner of the garage too late. The weather was disgusting, and no one believed that the bulbs planted so late would have time to take root and not freeze in the winter. There were no people willing to plant bulbs in slightly frost-bitten soil. My hand did not rise to throw strong living bulbs into a humus heap. I had to plant daffodils and tulips in trunk circles fruit trees and put them in a wide strip along the path. All other places were already taken. The top soil was mulched with compost. All the bulbs overwintered safely, and in the spring they bloomed, turning the site into a huge flowering flower bed.

The success of planting bulbs and corms in late autumn worries not only me, but also many amateur flower growers. How to guess that those planting dates have passed, which guarantee the successful rooting and safe wintering of bulbous plants? Especially in unpredictable climates middle lane Russia. How to make bulbous crops not only survive, but also bloom next spring?

We have a lot of bulbous plants in our area. Among them there are more or less frost-resistant. Such an abundance allows you to boldly experiment, finding a way out even of deadlock situations. There are options that have to be resorted to in extreme cases.

Late planting of bulbs and corms is not a sentence. You need to give them a chance to overwinter to bloom next year.

Planting bulbs in flower pots, boxes and containers

This landing method bulb crops can be considered reliable if the conditions of their natural wintering are recreated. To call such an option distillation can only be a bit of a stretch. In pots (boxes and other containers), I plant bulbs and corms selected (by variety, size, etc.), after which I dig these containers into the soil in an unheated greenhouse. In winter, when the ground begins to freeze, I cover it with any suitable insulation from above. Neighbor's cats and dried nettles spread nearby save from mice.

In the spring, it remains to get the pots with emerging buds and put them on appropriate place near the house or on a glazed loggia (veranda). This simple option allows you to purchase bulbs and corms in late autumn when they sell out. valuable varieties. Of course, even at a low price, the quality of planting material cannot be neglected.

Planting bulbous flowers in pots sometimes leads to unexpected results. This year, in the last days of September, hyacinths bloomed again. I accidentally left two flower pots with bulbs “ownerless” in the garden, which were planted in pots for distillation last fall and faded at the very end of winter. In September, I noticed that hyacinths began to appear inflorescences. As soon as the night air temperature approached zero, the pots had to be taken to the glazed loggia. The growth of peduncles slowed down, but did not stop.

There are many options for late planting bulbs and corms in containers. Every year in the fall I prepare hanging baskets with different primroses. In the spring I sow petunia seeds to them. In order to avoid “shift change”, I supplement the composition with branches original form(with earrings, cones, etc.). Depending on the landing time, I choose one or another option. winter storage planting baskets.

Pots with planted bulbs and corms in winter can be kept in any cold place: on the balcony, an outdoor box by the window, in an unheated garage or in a barn. But the bulbs need to be given time to root.

Some of the bulbs can be set aside for forcing by a specific date. But this is a completely different topic.

There are a few things that can ruin everything. We are not talking about low-quality planting material. More often brings elementary lack of sense of proportion. Almost like Karel Capek:

This is done like this: you buy suitable bulbs and in the nearest floriculture - a bag of well-composted earth; then you look in your basement or attic for all the old flower pots and plant a bulb in each. Towards the end of the operation, you discover that there are not enough pots for several bulbs. You bribe the pots, after which it turns out that there are not enough bulbs, but there are extra pots and earth left. You bribe bulbs and, since there is again not enough land, you get another bag of compost. You again have extra land, which is a pity to throw away: it’s better to buy pots and bulbs. This continues until your family members rebel. After that, having made the windows, tables, cupboards, sideboard, basement and attic with pots, you begin to wait with confidence for the onset of winter (Karel Capek “The Year of the Gardener”).

Planting bulbs and corms in cold ground

I know that even in late autumn it is often necessary to add a certain number of bulbs and corms. Therefore, in September I dig several plastic baskets for bulbous crops into the ground. I mark their location. Be sure to put a pile of compost on the ground. From above I cover everything with lutrasil and an “umbrella” folded in several layers ( plastic wrap, plywood, etc.). This very simple fallback allows bulbs and corms to be planted even when the soil in the area is frozen and hard. Under cover, she does not cool for a long time. Planted bulbs get a margin of time for rooting if they are sprinkled with compost on top and covered with spruce branches or other material.

If a fallback was not prepared in advance, then in late autumn the bulbs can be planted in the dug up ground under fruit trees. Once in November, I planted crocuses on our site under forest trees, surrounded on all sides by a lawn. With a narrow scoop (to remove dandelion roots), I made indentations and lowered them along the corm. She covered it with earth and covered it with disheveled turf.

Many sites have wonderful places above water and sewer pipes that are in the ground, and next to wells (water and sewer). The fact that it is warmer there can be judged by the fact that in winter the snow on the cast-iron covers melts. The land next to such wells is a great place for bulbous flowers. I somehow had to plant in early November next to sewer well bulbs of royal hazel grouse with hard roots sticking out in all directions. In spring, grouse, planted in a circle, bloomed luxuriously.

By the way, I still haven't seen a box of hazel grouse dug up this summer. I'll have to plant them in October, which doesn't scare me.

Do not forget about such a "magic wand" as a greenhouse. In it you can always find a corner in the soil of which expired bulbs and corms will fit. After the end of flowering, they can be dug up with a clod of earth, put in a bucket and sent to ripen in the far corner of the site.

Warning

The quality of planting material is the most important factor. That is why you should not buy some bulbs (tulips, daffodils, etc.) in the spring. We do not know where or how they were stored. Vendors often take the opportunity to sell non-viable planting material. So, in the spring of this year, they brought me from Holland nice box with tulip bulbs supposedly conserved especially for spring plantings. They were purchased in flower shop in an Aeroport. By the way, they were not cheap. Alas, in the box were drying moldy tulip bulbs left over from last year.

If, during late plantings, the bulbs (corms) were covered with spruce branches (film, non-woven material, foliage, etc.) or a large layer of compost on top, then in the spring, before flowering, you need to remove all this. We must not forget about those bulbs that were planted in August - September and soon began to sprout. In the fall, they had to be covered with soil (leaves) from above, so in the spring it is important to free them from unnecessary captivity in a timely manner.

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Description

Tulip - herbaceous bulbous perennial from the lily family. The flower of a tulip is bisexual (with rare exceptions). The leaves of tulips are lanceolate, elongated with a slight bluish tint, there is a slight wax coating. The stem of the plant is upright. The bulb is used for vegetative propagation, and also contains nutrients necessary for growth and development.

Bulbous. Save until planting in winter.

Bulbs to plant in open ground already late, plant in small pots with slightly moist soil. If you store the bulbs in the refrigerator without soil, they will dry out; if in wet paper or cloth - rot.

Take a pot about 10 cm for one bulb, pour a layer of drainage (expanded clay). Treat the bulbs with a fungicide solution. Cover the bulb with fertile soil.

Place the pots in a room with a low positive temperature (cellar, veranda) for 3-4 months. After such a dormant period, move the pots to a bright and cool place ( glazed loggia) and treat the plant as if it were a houseplant, watering it periodically. When the plant sprouts, store it at room temperature also on the windowsill. Subsequently, the plant will bloom in a pot, i.e. so-called forcing will turn out. When the plant has finished blooming, cut off the stem and reduce watering. And when the leaves dry, also cut them off and stop watering.

Plant the bulbs in the garden in the fall. A week before planting in open ground, remove the bulbs from the pots, treat with a fungicide and dry them.

Bulbous. Save until planting in summer.

When the plants have faded and the leaves have completely drooped, dig up the bulbs, dry them (several days in the shade outside) and discard the damaged and diseased ones.

Sort them by size (larger bulbs will need to be planted deeper than smaller bulbs) and by variety (required if you want to get a certain garden composition).

Put in a box (convenient to use carton boxes from eggs with holes), a box (preferably in one layer) or a mesh bag for storage. Store in a dry place so that the bulbs do not get moldy - in a shed or veranda, the main thing is that there is ventilation. It should not be hot, otherwise the bulbs will dry out. The optimum temperature will be about 22 degrees. Check bulbs periodically and discard rotten bulbs.

New cultivars require repotting every year to fully develop varietal traits. Ordinary varieties can grow in one place for at least 5 years, while the flowers do not shrink.

Tulips. Landing.

When planting and transplanting, choose sunny and calm places.

Make holes in a pre-prepared flower bed. To prevent the bulbs from rotting, pour 2-3 cm of sand into the holes (acts as drainage) to absorb excess moisture. Choose whole and healthy bulbs to plant. To prevent pests, treat the bulbs with a pink solution of potassium permanganate (dip for half an hour in the solution and dry).

Planting depth should be equal to three bulb sizes. For example, for a bulb of 5 cm, the depth is 15 cm (counting from the bottom of the bulb). Keep a distance of about 10 cm between the bulbs. Water, soaking the entire layer of soil to the bottom of the bulbs.