Painting tool. Tools for painting work: types and description Tools and devices for painting work

The multi-operational process of painting requires a variety of tools and devices.

Spatulas (Fig. 109) made of wood, steel, rubber and plastic are intended for applying and leveling the putty layer on surfaces prepared for painting.

To level the putty applied mechanically, special spatulas are needed for walls (Fig. 110, o, c, d) and ceilings (Fig. 110, b).

Paint brushes correspond to the type of work:
flywheel (Fig. 111, o) - for priming, whitewashing, as well as painting walls, ceilings, floors, roofs. They work with swinging hands with two hands;
maklovitsa (Fig. 111, b) - for washing, priming, whitewashing and painting surfaces with two hands;
handbrake handles are round and flat (Fig. 111, c, d) - for priming and painting with one hand;
curly brushes (Fig. 112, a) - for painting heating radiators, as well as back side radiators and walls behind them (Fig. 112, b);
stencil brushes are round and flat (Fig. 113, a, b) - for working on a stencil, they have short and hard hair;
panel brush (Fig. 113, c) - for drawing out thin lines.

Finishing of painted surfaces is carried out:
with a trimming brush made of short, hard hair (Fig. 114, o).

Use a dry brush to roughen the painted surface;
Using flat and round flutes (Fig. 114, b, c) with long soft hair, smooth the freshly painted surface without pressure, removing strokes and strokes.

Rice. 109. Spatula
a - wooden; b - steel; s - rubber; g - plastic

Rice. 110. Special spatulas
a - c flexible insert to smooth out the layer on the walls; b - with a bath for leveling and collecting excess putty from ceilings; c - combined for walls; g - with a bath for the walls

Rice. 111. Brushes
a – flywheel; b – maklovitsa; c – handbrake round and flat

Rice. 112. Shaped brushes
c – for painting the back side of radiators; b – walls behind radiators

Rice. 113. Stencil brushes [a, 6] and panel brushes (c)

Rice. 114. Brushes for finishing the paint layer a – trimming brush; b, a – flat and round flutes

Rollers are a tool for painting flat surfaces. For water-based adhesive paints, rollers with a foam rubber coating are used (Fig. 115, a), for oil-based and water-based adhesive paints, rollers with a fur coating are used (Fig. 115, b, c). Painting of concave corners (husks) with oil and water-adhesive compositions is carried out with an angular roller (Fig. 115, d).

For painting curved surfaces and hard to reach places use devices for painting pipes, their back sides, balcony and lattice fences and the ends of window frames and door leaves(Fig. 116).

Rice. 115. Rollers
a – foam rubber; b – fur with a short handle; corner with fur covering; c – the same, with a long handle; G

Rice. 116. Equipment for painting
a – the back side of the pipes; b – pipes; c – lattice fencing; d – ends of window frames and door panels; 1 – ejector; 2 – fixed holder; 3 - movable clip with a foam plate; 4 – sliding rollers; 5 – earring; 6 - bracket; 7 – compression device; 8 – foam rubber

When performing mechanical painting work, heating radiators and window frames are protected with lightweight portable screens (Fig. 117, a, b).

Rice. 117. Protective devices
a – screen for heating radiators; b – the same, window frames; c – for painting skirting boards

Rice. 118. Containers for paint composition and ruler
a – bucket with clamping device for brushes; b – bath with a mesh; c - wooden ruler for layering panels

Rice. 119. Equipment for painting work
a – three-wheeled cart; b – manual container for storing putty and tools; c – brush holder

Careful and careful handling of hand tools, devices and equipment helps to improve the quality and productivity of the painter.

Caring for brushes and rollers. New brushes that have not been used are soaked in warm soapy water (Fig. 120) for about an hour so that the hair swells and does not fall out during coloring. Then they are washed and dried.

Rice. 120. Soaking brushes in warm, soapy water
To evenly distribute the paint composition in the brush bundle, it is tied with twine

The tying begins by placing a loop of a short piece of twine on the end of the bundle. The ends of the loop are tied on the handle under the clip (Fig. 121, a-c). A sea knot is tied from the long end of the twine (Fig. 121, d), the loop of which encircles the bundle (Fig. 121, e). The short end of the knot is raised to the top of the bundle, forming a loop (Fig. 121, e), and the long end of the twine is tied around the bundle of the brush.

Rice. 121. Sequence of tying a hand with twine
1 – short end; 2 – long end; 3 - loop

During knitting, the turns of twine are pushed down to the holder; completing the knitting, the long end of the twine is inserted into the loop (Fig. 121, g, i) and the short end is pulled up by the handle under the holder (Fig. 121, j).

The brush tuft intended for use with non-aqueous paint compositions is tied tighter than for water-based ones, and the working part of the tuft is left shorter. As the beam wears out, the strapping is reduced so that the length of the working part of the beam remains constant.

The cone-shaped shape of the beam (tsaiga) of the brush (Fig. 122, a) allows you to obtain best quality coloring. To do this, first use a new brush to work on a rough surface (primer), and only after that it is used for painting.

Before painting (Fig. 122, b, c, d), the end of the bundle is dipped into the painting composition, squeezing out the excess against the wall of the container and turning

Rice. 122. Brush with a cone-shaped beam (a) – general view; brush development (b-r); b – dipping into the paint composition; c – squeezing out excess; d – turn the brush to evenly distribute the paint composition so that its beam is evenly saturated with the paint composition over half its length.

Rice. 123. Caring for brushes after working with water-based paints
a - squeezing out excess; b - temporary storage on a grid; a - the same, in limbo; 7 – mesh; 2 – water; 3 – pendants

Rice. 124. Caring for brushes after working with non-aqueous paint compositions
a – squeezing out excess; b - bath with solvent

Rice. 125. Bath for storing rollers and brushes

During short breaks in work, squeeze out excess adhesive and water-dispersion or other paint compositions from the brushes (Fig. 123, a). Then the brushes are placed in open vessels filled with water (Fig. 123, b), on a mesh or in a suspended state.

During breaks in painting with oil and other non-aqueous compositions, the brushes are wrung out (Fig. 124, a) and placed in a bath with clamps (Fig. 124, b) filled with a solvent.

During long breaks in work, rollers and untied brushes are washed with water after water-based colors, and after non-aqueous colors - with solvent and hot water and put it into a bath (Fig. 125) filled with water or solvent.

During storage, fly brushes, handbrake handles and flywheels are dried and hung or placed in a bunch upward (Fig. 126, a), and the rollers are installed with handles in the sockets of the racks (Fig. 126, b).

Rice. 126. Storage of brushes (a) and rollers (b)

The surface to be painted usually has dents, holes, scratches and other defects, which are removed and leveled using putties. Puttying does not increase the protective properties of coatings: a layer of putty that is too thick and insufficiently elastic is susceptible to cracking, as a result of which the strength of the entire coating is compromised.

Putties are applied to well-dried soil with a wooden, plastic or metal spatula (Fig. 33, a-e) (for flat surfaces) or a piece of sheet rubber (for curved surfaces). Putties can also be applied with a paint sprayer or special fishing rods with a nozzle with a diameter of 6 mm.

Rice. 33. Hand tools:
a-f - spatulas, g - block for sanding paper, h - scrapers, i - device for grinding the surface; 1 - canvas, 2 - cover, 3 - cap, 4 - handle, 5 - bath, 6 - holder, 7 - pads, 8 - soft base, 9 - sanding paper, 10 - clamping screw, 11 - shaped scraper, 12 - scraper with extended handle, 13 - steel brushes

For better adhesion of the putty to the soil, the surface is plastered to give it roughness, and then the dust is removed. The latter is mandatory, since even the thinnest layer of dust sharply impairs adhesion.

For more effective leveling, the surface is first putty in the deepest places. After drying, the putty areas are treated with sandpaper (Fig. 33, g-i); if necessary, these areas or the entire surface are puttyed again.

Puttying the surface with more than 3 layers is ineffective. The thickness of each layer of putty should not exceed 0.5 mm for oil-based, varnish and perchlorovinyl putties, 1 mm for epoxy and other similar putties.

Applying paints and varnishes with a brush is one of the oldest methods coloring, known for many centuries. Now this operation is used when painting small and complex configurations of areas and surfaces with high-quality and alfresco finishing, to correct defects during repairs, etc.

In addition, the brush painting method has a number of advantages - it is simple, paint material sticks well to the base when shaded, materials are used sparingly. The disadvantages include high labor intensity (1 m 2 in 4-6 minutes).

The coloring composition is applied with a brush cone without strong pressure, while the material is laid out in wide stripes, which are then shaded in the horizontal and vertical directions. The brush is held at an angle of 45-60° to the surface to be painted.

Rice. 34. Hand tools and accessories:
a - a tray for rollers and brushes, b - a knife for cleaning glass, c - a roller with a lead, d - wallpaper scissors, d - roller knife, e - brush, g - paint roller, h-k - device for cleaning and painting pipes; 1 - body, 2 - handle, 3 - grid for rollers, 4 - cells for brushes, 5 - pads, 6 - blade, 7 - clamping screw, 8 - lead clamping screw, 9 - lead, 10 - rack, 11 - roller , 12, 15 - movable clip, 13 - clamp, 14 - brush, 16 - coated writing roller, 17 - working part, 18 - fixed clip, 19 - ejector

There is a wide variety of brushes that differ in size, weight, shape, material and are designed to perform many operations. Best material- pig bristles, which have a naturally cone-shaped shape and bifurcated ends of the hair, which allows for high-quality coverage. For regular coloring, combined brushes made from pig bristles and hair from other animal or plant fibers are used, as well as from synthetic materials(nylon, nylon, etc.). The latter are more wear-resistant.

The size of the brush corresponds to the type of work. The largest ones are called flywheels, they are used for painting walls, ceilings, floors, roofs, etc. Based on the weight of the bristles, they are made in 200, 300, 400 and 600 g, for which the bundles are tied with twine and placed on the pointed end of a handle with a length of 1 up to 1.5 m. On top of 1/2-2/3 of the length of the bundle, the working part is also wrapped with twine. The remaining free bristles have different lengths for different coloring compositions: shorter - for oil, enamel (with rubbing over the surface), longer - for water-based.

As the brush wears out, the coils are gradually removed. Select with swinging brushes with both hands.

Smaller brushes for working with one hand are called handbrake - round and flat. In round handbrushes, the bristles are glued into a recess at the end of the handle, and in flat ones, they are clamped in a tin or plastic frame of the hand. Handbrake sizes are designated by even numbers from 6 to 30.

When painting with a stencil, stencil brushes with shorter and stiffer bristles are used.

To create fine lines, use stroke brushes made from long squirrel hair.

Rice. 35. Paint brushes (a-g) and trim brushes (h, i)

Wide soft brushes made of long badger hair - flute brushes - are used to smooth the freshly painted surface and remove brush strokes and strokes. Flutes are made round and flat. When working, the flute is not dipped into paint, but used dry and held perpendicular to the surface without pressure.

Trimming brushes are used to roughen the surface. They are made from short bleached bristles mounted on a wooden frame measuring 100 x 200 mm. When working with a dry trimmer, hit a freshly painted surface.

For other purposes, special brushes are used: brushes, curly brushes, panel brushes, etc.

For successful work Certain rules for working with brushes must be followed.

Any new brush will contain dust and broken hairs, so the brush should be washed in warm, soapy water and dried.

The best results are obtained with a cone-shaped brush, so it is rational to work with a new brush on non-critical operations on a rough surface (priming), then clean it and use it for cover layers.

Before starting work, the brush is “developed” - dipped into the coloring composition, pressed against the wall, turned, etc. until the hair bundle is evenly moistened to half its length. While working, dip the brush shallowly, tapping along the edge of the working container to distribute the paint evenly.

The paint and varnish material is applied in a thick layer and then shaded with a brush. It is more convenient to paint large surfaces in parts, making final shading in all areas in the same direction to make the boundaries of adjacent areas invisible. It is necessary to cover the layer of paint and varnish material before the “raw edge” of the previous surface area begins to dry, otherwise the layer thickens at the border of the areas and after drying may wrinkle or be different in color from the rest of the surface.

This technology is suitable for most coloring compositions, but may be partially modified in individual cases. Thus, paint and varnish materials for intermediate layers quickly lose fluidity, especially at elevated temperatures, so they should be applied skillfully and quickly to cover the “raw” edges. In conclusion, shading enamels, oil and other similar compositions must be done from the bottom up to reduce paint swelling. When painting wood, finishing touches are made along the grain; when painting ceilings, the finishing touches are made towards the light.

Brush painting is used primarily for slow-drying compositions.

It is much more difficult to apply with a brush quick-drying materials with active volatile solvents, since when applying repeated layers or when shading, the underlying layers dissolve and the coating turns out to be incomplete and uneven. If necessary, the first layer should be applied only in one direction without feathering, and after drying, the second layer should be applied in the other direction.

At the end of the work, the paint and varnish material is squeezed out of the brush with a spatula or scraper, the brush is wiped, washed in a solvent and dried by rotating in air.

The appearance of fungi and insects on the brush should be avoided, so it should be stored dry, wrapped in oiled paper or cellophane.

Brushes made of squirrel, badger and ferret hair are washed from paint warm water with soap.

The most effective hand tools for applying most painting compounds, especially water-based and water-borne ones, are paint rollers (Fig. 36) of various designs. The essence of the method of dyeing with them is that the paint and varnish material first evenly fills the pores of the foam rubber covering or the space between the hair of the sheared sheepskin, and when rolled over the surface of the product, it transfers the coloring composition to it and partially shades it.

Rice. 36. Rolling device with a set of rollers:
1 - knurling roller, 2, 6 - clamping screws, 3 - feed roller, 4 - axis, 5 - detachable bracket, 7 - handle

This method, compared to the brush method, is more productive, but has limitations, since it can only be used for flat surfaces, although a number of organizations have developed special shaped rollers for painting pipes, heating radiators, etc.

When painting flat surfaces, move the roller up and down (walls, doors, etc.) or back and forth (ceilings, floors) until the paint on the roller is used up. At the same time, the painter moves along the front of the work, and then back and shades the painted surface with a dry roller. The roller is filled with paint, partially immersed in the paint bath, and rolled over the overhead mesh to distribute it evenly and drain excess paint back into the bath. There are designs with forced paint supply directly into the roller body or through an intermediate roller.

When rolling patterns or stencils, a type of paint roller with replaceable rubber attachments is used.

Depending on the purpose, the length of the roller may vary.

K category: Painting works

Tools, equipment and devices

To perform painting work you need various instrument, equipment and devices. Proper selection of tools and care for them not only increase labor productivity, but also greatly increase the service life of the tool.

When doing painting work by hand, brushes are needed. They come in different sizes, shapes and purposes. Brushes are made from bristles, bristles with hair, and one hair. Brushes made from one hair are cheaper, but of lower quality.

Swing brushes. In them, the hair is secured in a metal clip with a handle. There are brushes in the form of a bunch of hair, which requires knitting and mounting on a handle, usually a long one, called a pin (Fig. 1).

Swing brushes large size are used for painting large surfaces, small ones - small ones.

In addition to fly brushes, whitewash brushes and paint brushes are used for painting large surfaces.

Rice. 1. Knitting of the brush: 1 - loop; 2 - putting a loop on the hand; 3 - twine wrapping; 4 - securing the long end; 5 - finished brush

Whitewashing brushes come in a width of 200 mm, with a short handle. They resemble a wide and thick flute. They work in the same way as swing brushes. When attaching a whitewash brush to a long handle, it is best to use a brush holder.

The header has a length from 15 to 18.5 cm, a width of 8 and 8.5 cm. The handle of the header is attached tightly in the middle of the block or with screws. The popcorn can be attached to a long handle. To store the popcorn on the edges of the bucket, it is advisable to attach a holder to them.

In Fig. Figure 2 shows a whitewash brush and paint brush.

Hand brushes are small round brushes, the hair of which (usually bristles) is fixed in a ring or in a thin metal cartridge. The diameter of handbrake hands varies.

Flutes are flat brushes made of high-quality bristles inserted into a metal holder mounted on a short wooden handle. They are mainly used to smooth out freshly applied paint after brushing. The width of the flutes varies from 30 to 150 mm.

File brushes are made of stiff bristles mounted in a metal holder-frame. The diameter of the brushes is from 5 to 20 mm. They are used for painting small areas and drawing out panels (narrow strips). File brushes come in round and flat.

Sheperki come in flat and finger shapes. Their width is from 50 to 150 mm. They are thinner than flutes. They are used for painting places where it is impossible to work with a flute, as well as for unraveling (cutting) surfaces when painting them under valuable types of wood and decorative stones.

Rice. 2. Whitewash brush and paint brush

Working with brushes is done in different ways. New brushes should be lightly processed, or, as they say, trimmed. If the brushes are made of bristles, then you just need to moisten them in water and work on some rough surface for 20-30 minutes. Individual hairs will be erased, and the brush will apply paint better.

If the brush is made of hair, then it can be lightly burned over a fire, which achieves the removal of individually protruding hairs.

After each day of work, the brushes are washed, completely removing the paint from them, and hung with the hair down to dry, after giving the brushes a torch shape. The better the brush is washed, the longer its service life.

When working with any brush, paint should be collected in such an amount that it does not flow off the brush. Excess paint is squeezed out on the edge of the dish. It is recommended to stir the paint periodically.

When working with a swing brush, you need to periodically rotate it in your hands, which wears out the hair more evenly. First, the brush is placed against the surface and a little pressure is applied to it. As paint is consumed, the pressure increases.

Use a brush to apply even strokes of paint of normal thickness. If there is too much, the paint flows; if there is too little, there will be unpainted areas. To prevent paint from flowing down the pin onto your hands, tie the pin with a rag at a distance of 30-50 cm from the brush.

When working with a brush, you should apply strokes correctly. In all cases, paint strokes must be crossed at right angles.

When painting walls, strokes of paint should first be applied horizontally and then vertically, carefully shading the paint, without gaps or rough stripes. It is best to work together: one applies horizontal strokes of paint, the other - vertical ones (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Painting walls with swing brushes: 1 - applying horizontal strokes; 2 - applying vertical strokes

When the paint has low coverage, the work has to be redone, that is, painted a third time. To do this, prepare the paint thicker than it was, and apply it to the surface a second time, shading it with vertical strokes.

If painting is carried out three times, then the paint is first applied with vertical strokes, then horizontal and for the third time again vertical.

Ceilings are painted taking into account the incidence of light and the finishing touches are directed in the direction of the light rays.

Handbrake handles work in the same way. It should be remembered that the thinner the layer of paint is applied, the higher the quality of the finish and the smoother the paint will apply.

Flatting and trimming are performed in order to level out previously applied layers of paint with brushes. When working with a flute, traces of paint left by a brush are destroyed. Flute over freshly applied paint. The flute should only lightly touch the painted surface with its end, smoothing out roughly applied traces of paint. The float is wiped of paint during operation.

When working with trimming, fresh paint applied with a brush is leveled and a texture resembling shagreen (small tubercles) remains on the surface. The trimmer is used to apply uniform, gentle trimming blows, but so that the entire hair touches the surface. Hitting one place several times is not recommended.

In Fig. Figure 4 shows painting surfaces with different brushes.

Rice. 4. Painting with different brushes: 1 - handbrake brushes; 2 - fluting; 3 - trimming; 4 - painting with white-wash brushes “brush to brush”

Rollers are widely used instead of brushes. They are more productive than brushes and give the applied color the texture of coarse shagreen. The diameter of the rollers can be from 40 to 70 mm, length - from 100 to 250 mm. Rollers are made from fur and foam rubber.

The fur roller (Fig. 5) consists of a handle with a rod and an axis on which the roller is attached. The axle has a washer and nut. The roller can be wooden, but a hollow duralumin one is better. Metal bushings are attached to the wooden bolster. A sewn fur stocking made of chicken or sheepskin with wool no longer than 15-20 mm is put on the roller. You can use a fleecy cloth. Since the roller picks up a lot of paint, it is squeezed out against a mesh that is installed obliquely in the tray. Instead of a mesh, you can use a sheet of steel with holes with a diameter of no more than 10 mm. A cone-shaped bucket can be used for this purpose.

A foam roller (Fig. 6) is made from foam rubber by drilling it with a special cutter. The cutter is made in the form of a cylinder of the required diameter with walls no more than 1 mm thick. The length of the cylinder cutter is 130-150 mm. At one end there are teeth, like a saw. The other end is covered with a bottom (lid), to which a shank is welded. The last cutter is attached to the chuck of the drilling machine. Inside the cutter, a hollow tube with a diameter of 10 mm is placed on the thread, equal to the length of the cutter. One end of the tube is threaded, the other is sharpened. Having secured the cutter in the chuck and placed drilling machine at high speeds, rollers with a hole in the middle can be drilled from solid foam rubber. To reduce friction, a cutter with external and inner sides It is recommended to lubricate with machine oil.

A tube is inserted into the hole of the roller, which is put on the axle with a nut and washer.

A machine in the form of scissors made of two paired rollers is convenient for painting individual fence posts stairwells, balconies, etc. This increases labor productivity compared to working with a brush.

Painting with rollers is done like this. For work, a bath or bucket is used with squeezing grids installed in them, which are needed in order to squeeze out excess paint collected by rollers, squeezing out the excess paint, the roller is placed against the surface of the wall or ceiling and guided in the desired direction on the walls from top to bottom, and on the ceilings - in the direction light rays.

Rice. 5. Fur roller

Rice. 6. Foam roller

Practice has shown that it is best to first apply horizontal strokes of paint on the walls with rollers, then vertical ones. From crossing, the paint adheres more in even layers. First, apply the first strip with a roller, then the second next to it, but so that the edges of the paint overlap by at least 4-5 cm. This is necessary so that there are no gaps at the joints.

Sometimes the paint is applied with brushes, but rolled over it with rollers, leveling it and thereby obtaining an even color. Before starting to work with rollers, it is recommended to carry out a trial run. Rollers can paint up to 300 m2 per day. At correct mode You can paint up to 4-5 thousand m2 of work with one roller.

In Fig. 7 shows roller painting.

To separate the panel from the top of the wall, a panel is drawn along the line where the two paints meet, i.e. a narrow strip, the color of which is matched to the color of the panel. Sometimes, instead of one panel, two or three are used. The width of the panels varies. Narrow - from 5 to 10 mm, medium - from 12 to 18 mm, wide - from 20 to 30 mm.

Panels can be made with adhesive, oil and other painting compounds.

The panels are removed using panel and finger brushes, simple and detachable, or special devices. The drawing is done using a ruler, one side of which has a chamfer. The ruler is placed chamfered against the wall, but so that the side with the chamfer is at the top.

Take a ruler with a length of 100 to 150 cm. Since it is impossible to draw an exact straight line using one ruler, you have to first punch the line with a chalked cord, place a ruler on this line and pull out the panel.

To mark lines, take a thin strong cord, chalk it with chalk or some other dry paint (ocher is best), place it in the right place, pull it tightly, then pull the cord away from the surface of the wall or ceiling 10-15 cm and release it. Hitting the surface, the cord leaves traces of paint on it in the form of a thin line.

Rice. 7. Painting with a roller: 1 - picking up paint; 2 - coloring

Having placed the ruler against the line marked off with the cord, the paneling brush is moistened in the paint, placed against the ruler, and with exactly the same pressure, the panel is drawn.

Rice. 8. Pulling out the panels

The panel can be drawn using a stencil or a finger brush, but it is better to do this with a special device.

Paint for work is poured into a jar, which is attached to the belt.

For adhesive painting compositions, the paint for the panels is either ordinary adhesive paint or prepared from chalk and pigment.

In Fig. Figure 8 shows the stretching of panels.

- Tools, equipment and devices

Painting work is the final stage of repair or construction work before delivery to the customer.

Not only do these works make the design idea complete appearance, they are also designed to extend the service life of wall surfaces, ceilings, floors, doors and window openings and so on by protection against corrosion, against mold, protection against insects (in wooden houses).

Great importance in finishing depends on the quality of the applied materials used to carry out this work. They can be both on water and not water based. Water-based binders can be substances such as lime, cement, liquid glass and adhesives various types. Non-aqueous binders are drying oils, both natural and synthetic, various resins and bitumens. Of course, when working you need liquids such as turpentine, white spirit, acetone and other solvents to clean your hands, tools and drips or other contaminants.

In addition, various mixtures, primers, putties and similar compositions are applied as a preliminary base.

All these compositions and substances must be applied with special tools and devices. We can say that high-quality finishing depends 30% on the material, 30% on the tool and 30% on the skill of the worker. Everything together gives its result.

The tools and devices depend on what kind of composition we will be working with, what area we will be processing, and what kind of finishing will be - artistic or standard. For example, for large areas you can use spray guns.

Painting walls using a spray gun

What are the differences intools and equipment for painting work

The main difference is the tools for painting work for professionals and for those who are doing it for the first or second time, but only for themselves. Although in this area these differences are not very visible, except in the mechanization of painting.

Some tools have not changed for a century, some have changed only some components, for example, the handle is not wooden, but rubber, more synthetic hair is used in brushes instead of natural hair.

A professional tool for a painter’s work is considered to be a paint roller made from foam rubber, fur (artificial) or a special roller for rolling a pattern. It comes with a special container for squeezing (removing) excess paint from the roller. Do-it-yourselfers usually paint with a brush.

The same applies to a spray bottle, although a beginner can also use it. Previously, instead of a spray bottle, they used household vacuum cleaner, only the hose was connected to the return hole, to the outlet. Its kit included a special nozzle, which was put on glass jar and connected to the hose. The ceiling was whitewashed in this way especially successfully.

Before filling the container, strain the paint on any base well.

An electric spray gun is an excellent tool with good performance

TO hand tools and devices for painting work can also include spray guns, which are still larger professional tool, especially electric, which is more efficient. It is used for liquid formulations. For thicker paints, special spray guns are used, in which the distance from the nozzle to the wall, for example, is 75-100 cm, which is very convenient for carrying out this work.

Tools, devices and equipment for painting work

Tools for painting work include::

a special knife with a durable and thin blade with a rubberized handle to make a precise cut if there is a need to straighten something;

carpenter's chisel, maybe a set with a semicircular and flat shape, they are used to remove chamfers and clean out grooves;

100 cm wooden ruler, chamfered on one side;

sandpaper attached to a block, homemade or purchased, to prepare the surface for painting.

Tools for painting work and their purpose

The very first tool that should be in a painter’s kit is a spatula for applying putty to level surfaces, as well as sealing seams, either wooden or rubber. The wooden spatula has a width from 50 to 200 mm.

There are also metal ones, which are made of steel grade G, that is, flexible and well polished. the handle is made of either wood or plastic with the addition of rubber. They are removed old paint, carry out finishing putty on wood. Its blade width is from 30 to 100 mm.

When using spatulas, you need to monitor the sharpness of the blade, sharpen it if necessary, and before starting work, process it in accordance with the material from which the spatula is made.

The next tool is brushes, whose bristles have different lengths and composition depending on the purpose. This can be priming, painting, wetting and roughening the surface for further processing. various surfaces. A brush can be used instead of a spray gun if using the latter is not possible.

Set of paint brushes

Brushes also come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Of course, brushes made from natural bristles are considered the most expensive and best. The fact is that such a brush absorbs large number paint, while the latter does not roll off.

Brushes with the addition of horsehair are a little cheaper, but the quality of their work is much lower.

Eat fly brushes , which have a handle with a cavity inside, which allows you to put it on the extension cord. With this device you can paint large surfaces.

Flying brush

They are large in size: diameter up to 65 mm, bristles up to 180 mm. Used for applying adhesive and casein compositions.

Whitewash brush used for whitewashing. Can be made from synthetic threads or bast.

Whitewash brush

Maklovitsa can be used instead of a whitewash brush, the working part is made of bristles with the addition of horsehair, the handle can be either permanently attached or removable.

Eat hand - handbrake , for small surfaces, its diameter is 26-50 mm. It has empty space inside that allows you to type more paints.

Flutes used to remove marks from the previous brush and smooth surfaces. Professional painters use flutes made from badger hair.

File brushes , which come in both round and flat, are used for applying panels or repainting areas that are inaccessible to other tools. Good tool made from bristles.

File brushes

Finally, trimming , which is made of hard bristles and serves to make a rough surface.

To tools for painting and decorative works rollers can be classified as decorative plaster.

Roller for decorative plaster

You can also make a beautiful texture special grater, on the front side of which a special design is applied.

Special sponge with pieces of artificial leather

Various special sponges made from various materials are widely used to obtain patterns.

Car painting

Painting work also includes car painting. Here the set of tools is completely different.

Of course, the set depends on whether you paint at home or in a workshop. Some tools are portable, for the home, for example, and stationary, in the workshop.

These are the following tools for painting work in cars:

Grinding machine for preparing surfaces for painting. It can be replaced by a drill with attachments for grinding and polishing. A polishing machine or polishing attachments on a drill are used to final polish the surface of the car after painting, covering the body with polishes.

Masking tape used to cover rubber seals, glass, and similar parts.

A spotlight, for example a portable one. It is needed to illuminate the problem area. Sometimes they are used for drying in one place, maintaining the proper distance.

Portable spotlight for illumination

A carpenter's hair dryer is used to warm up the body in order to remove the labels that are applied to the adhesive base.

The spray gun is the main tool for painting a car. If you plan to paint small area, for example doors, you can use a tool small size, but in principle, you can have a large one; you can use it to paint both the entire hood and small parts. It is also used for surface varnishing or priming. Use with different nozzles.

Instead of a spray gun, a compressor can be used for painting. It is more effective for painting works.

Be sure to have a paint mask that protects the respiratory system from harmful components.

And, of course, you need to have consumables.

Compositions and manual machines for painting work

Both tools and compositions for painting work are basically unified.

This lime , which is used as disinfection and as binder for painting.

White Portland cement T used similarly to lime, but for the production of polymer-cement paints. Also used colored Portland cement, for the production of colored solutions and aqueous painting compositions.

Potassium liquid glass .

Bone glue . Used for preparing compositions for painting, as well as for gluing various materials.

Hide glue , application in the same cases.

Natural drying oils They are used for impregnation and for diluting high-quality paints, since their cost is high.

Semi-natural and synthetic drying oils used for diluting paints.

Dry paint is, for example, chalk, lime, titanium and zinc white, manganese oxide, red lead, chromium oxide, cobalt blue, ultramarine, green lead, aluminum powder. They are insoluble in water and solvents and are used for coloring without penetrating into materials, so they are of little use. Instead, pigment pastes are used, which are used to prepare colored compositions for painting.

Variety of pigments very large, these are natural, synthetic inorganic, synthetic organic, metal. Each type has a large palette of colors.

Final stage finishing work– application of a decorative and protective layer. In order to quickly and efficiently cover the surface to be treated with primer, varnish, enamel or paint, you will need auxiliary tools - brushes, rollers, and when processing large surfaces, spray guns.

The most common are brushes. Their selection is very diverse. In the photo below you can see the rich assortment of this type of painting tools.

Types of brushes

Brushes vary in shape, length and bristle material, and geometric dimensions (handle length, brush width). Depending on the purpose of the brush, their names vary:

Radiator brush

A tool designed for painting work on pipes and radiators in places where it is difficult to reach with a flat brush. Design feature is a long handle, as well as a working part, curved at different angles. The width of the brush is selected so as to complete the work as quickly as possible, with access to all hard-to-reach areas of the surface to be painted.

The bristles on such brushes come with a small addition of synthetics, no more than 30%, and are attached to the handle with a metal clip or glue. Allows you to work with alkyd, acrylic and nitro enamels without much “shedding” of the brush. After work, the bristles are washed with white spirit, water or acetone, depending on the composition of the enamel.

Maklovitsa

Designed for large surfaces - walls, ceilings, floors. It is applied with a primer, impregnation, and water-based paint. Also used for whitewashing. Convenient for applying wallpaper glue.

The peculiarity of the mat is that after coating you can not level it with a dry brush. liquid formulations, because it gives a very uniform application.

Its bristles absorb thick and viscous compounds well. Manufacturers of painting tools make bristles for paint brushes from both natural (pork and horse hair) and synthetic materials.

Raklya

It is similar to a poplar with the difference that it has a large internal space that serves as a kind of reservoir for the material. Allows you to quickly and efficiently perform the same types of work as a maklovitsa. The bristles on the squeegee can be either natural or artificial.

Round brush

Usually on a long handle with a cylinder-shaped mount in which the bristles are held. This painting tool is chosen when painting windows, baseboards, platbands, paneled doors and objects that have any weird shape.

A large round brush is convenient for whitewashing walls and ceilings. The bristles for it are made of natural, artificial and mixed types.

Flat brush

Designed to provide a smooth finish, used on finishing layers. Suitable for painting any surfaces, taking into account that for hard-to-reach places you will need a narrower brush.

water after working with acrylic, water-dispersed compositions;
kerosene or white spirit - after oil, alkyd varnishes and enamels;
acetone or 646 solvent - after nitro varnishes and enamels.

If you don’t wash the brush, you won’t be able to use it again – it’s easier to throw it away.

Types of rollers

Along with brushes, tools such as rollers are used in manual painting work. They are a cylinder made of wood or plastic, having a hole along the entire length, to which bushings are installed at the ends, and equipped with an axis with a handle. The nozzle is put on the roller. Divided into:

Polyester, for water-dispersion paints for walls and ceilings. They are characterized by increased wear resistance.

Foam rubber, used for wallpapering. They are not suitable for alkyd and nitro enamels, since the solvent will eat the foam rubber.

Polyamide – universal, suitable for dispersion and solvent paints. They have good absorbing and releasing properties. They are easy to clean, do not require special care, and are chemically resistant. Due to the length of the pile, they are suitable for uneven surfaces with holes and bumps.

With a fur nozzle used for oil paints, enamels and varnishes.

Velor – to give a special smoothness to the treated surface. The bristles on such rollers are very short, suitable for processing a flat, smooth surface.

Structural – used for painting with structural paints and plasters, giving a textured coating to the surface being treated.

The listed catalog of rollers is far from complete - there are specialized painting tools, for example, rubber and plastic pressure rollers, needle rollers for removing wallpaper, paneled rollers, and also for painting corners.

The above-mentioned painting tools are not suitable for painting a car - in such cases, use a spray gun or a paint gun, connected with a hose to a compressor that produces uniform pressure. You also need a room with exhaust ventilation, isolated from dust, as well as a special drying chamber.

Varnishes and enamels for cars are dried in such chambers at high temperatures. Without special skills and many years of practice, such work cannot be done well - you cannot avoid streaks of varnish or car enamel. Therefore, you should entrust it to professionals.