What boiler temperature to set in winter. Optimum water temperature in a gas boiler. Operating costs: this is what he wants

I have a BAXI 24Fi boiler, it started just the other day and I immediately did not like its cyclical mode. Very often it ignites the burner (3 minutes, after the pump runs out). But the burner burns a little, literally 20-40 seconds and that's it. Perhaps the boiler power is too big for my heating system

I have a BAXI Eco3 Compact 240FI, an apartment of 85 sq.m. The first heating season, last year worked only on hot water. Before connecting the room thermostat, it clocked at a similar interval. At a higher water temperature (60-70 degrees), the burner operates from 40 seconds to 1.5 minutes, then there is a set burner turn-on delay of 30 or 150 seconds, depending on the T-off switch on the board. All this time the pump is running, since the board has a wired overrun time when working for heating - 3 minutes (it’s a pity that you can’t change it). During this time, t of water decreases by 10 degrees from the set value and the cycle repeats. By setting the t of water below (40 degrees), I reduced the burner's operating time to 30-50 seconds.
I experimented with adjusting the maximum power of the heating circuit - I did not notice significant deviations in the burner operation time. Water temperature has a greater effect.

Yes, it's already set up. The jumper on terminals 1 and 2 is, as it were, a "perpetual request for inclusion" from the thermostat. By replacing it with a smart box with a relay, you can limit the burner operation periods by the schedule during the day and week (electronic programmable thermostats) and the air temperature in the room (electronic and mechanical thermostats). The temperature of the coolant is recommended to choose higher (70-75 degrees).

When working without a thermostat, I had to monitor the temperature outside
Now +10 +15 overboard and even setting t=40 you can get heat in the rooms, plus clocking and excessive gas consumption.
With a thermostat, 75 degrees is recommended. Then, during the heating period, which allows raising the air temperature in the room by the “thermostat delta”, the water temperature does not have time to reach 75 degrees and the boiler has been operating continuously all this time. So far, at a positive temperature outside, I have this time of 15-20 minutes, when the water heats up to 60-65 degrees with a subsequent downtime of 1.5-2 hours.
Even if it heats the water to 75 before the air warms up, the boiler will turn off and turn on again after the required 150 seconds. just me. Here already the periods of heating will be short, but not numerous. Since the pump is running all this time, the radiators are hot and the air temperature will quickly reach the value set in the thermostat. After that, again idle at 1.5-2 hours.
Immediately set the maximum possible temperature (85 degrees), I think it is not necessary - there is still winter ahead.
And such a remark. After turning off by the thermostat, during the run-out time of the pump, the air in the room still heats up (I have +0.1 to the set one)
With hotter water there will be some "overcomfort" and overspending
So the temperature of the coolant in the presence of a room thermostat mainly determines the rate of heating to a given air temperature.

If about the air temperature delta in the characteristics of thermostats, then 0.5 is quite enough. In more expensive brands, it is also adjustable from 0.1 degrees. So far, I have not noticed the need for such precise temperature maintenance.
Much more interesting moment selection of comfortable and economical temperatures (in terms of some brands of thermostats with two levels of set temperature, these can be "day" and "night").
Usually the factory settings provide for a difference of 2-3 degrees.
But then in the morning before waking up, it will take much more time to raise the temperature to a comfortable temperature than for a heating cycle while maintaining a temperature with a delta of 0.5. Hence the increase in costs. The situation is the same if heating is set before returning from work, and during the day, in the absence of people, the apartment is heated in an economical mode.
Here, of course, you need experience and statistics in monitoring consumption.

If the thermostat holds the permission to operate the boiler (the temperature is below the set one), then the burner in the boiler burns constantly until the thermostat removes the permission (when the setpoint is reached) or what? Couldn't he just overheat at this time?

Will not overheat. The thermostat just allows, but does not oblige the boiler to work. When the set coolant temperature is reached, the burner will turn off regardless of the mode on the thermostat.

2.KIT of the boiler at different temperatures of the incoming

The lower the temperature enters the boiler, the greater the temperature difference on different sides of the boiler heat exchanger partition, and the more efficiently the heat passes from the exhaust gases (combustion products) through the heat exchanger wall. I will give an example with two identical kettles placed on the same burners. gas stove. One burner is set to high flame and the other to medium. The kettle with the highest flame will boil faster. And why? Because the temperature difference between the combustion products under these kettles and the water temperature for these kettles will be different. Accordingly, the rate of heat transfer at a larger temperature difference will be greater.

With regard to the heating boiler, we cannot increase the combustion temperature, as this will lead to the fact that most of our heat (gas combustion products) will fly out through the exhaust pipe into the atmosphere. But we can design our heating system (hereinafter CO) in such a way as to lower the temperature entering into , and therefore, lower the average temperature circulating through . The average temperature at the return (inlet) to and supply (outlet) from the boiler will be called the temperature of "boiler water".

As a rule, the 75/60 ​​mode is considered the most economical thermal mode of operation of a non-condensing boiler. Those. with a temperature at the supply (outlet from the boiler) +75 degrees, and at the return (inlet to the boiler) +60 degrees Celsius. A reference to this thermal regime is in the boiler passport, when indicating its efficiency (usually indicate the mode 80/60). Those. in a different thermal mode, the efficiency of the boiler will be lower than stated in the passport.

That's why modern system heating must operate in the design (for example, 75/60) thermal mode for the entire heating period, regardless of the outside temperature, except when using outdoor sensor temperature (see below). The regulation of heat transfer from heating devices (radiators) during the heating period should be carried out not by changing the temperature, but by changing the amount of flow through the heating devices (the use of thermostatic valves and thermoelements, i.e. "thermal heads").

In order to avoid the formation of acid condensate on the boiler heat exchanger, for a non-condensing boiler, the temperature in its return (inlet) should not be lower than +58 degrees Celsius (usually taken with a margin of +60 degrees).

I will make a reservation that the ratio of air and gas entering the combustion chamber is also of great importance for the formation of acid condensate. The more excess air entering the combustion chamber, the less acidic condensate. But you should not rejoice at this, since excess air leads to a large overspending of gas fuel, which ultimately "beats us in the pocket."

For example, I will give a photo showing how acid condensate destroys the boiler heat exchanger. The photo shows the heat exchanger of the Vaillant wall-mounted boiler, which worked for only one season in an incorrectly designed heating system. Quite strong corrosion is visible on the return (inlet) side of the boiler.

For condensation, acid condensate is not terrible. Since the heat exchanger of the condensing boiler is made of special quality alloyed of stainless steel, which is "not afraid" of acid condensate. Also, the design of the condensing boiler is designed so that acidic condensate flows through a tube into a special container for collecting condensate, but does not fall on any electronic components and components of the boiler, where it could damage these components.

Some condensing boilers they are able to change the temperature at their return (inlet) by themselves due to the smooth change of the power of the circulation pump by the processor of the boiler. Thereby increasing the efficiency of gas combustion.

For additional gas savings, use the connection of the outdoor temperature sensor to the boiler. Most wall-mounted ones have the ability to automatically change the temperature depending on the outside temperature. This is done so that at outdoor temperatures that are warmer than the temperature of the cold five-day period (the most severe frosts), the temperature of the boiler water is automatically lowered. As mentioned above, this reduces gas consumption. But when using a non-condensing boiler, it is important not to forget that when the temperature of the boiler water changes, the temperature at the return (inlet) of the boiler should not fall below +58 degrees, otherwise acid condensate will form on the boiler heat exchanger and destroy. To do this, when commissioning the boiler, in the boiler programming mode, such a curve of temperature dependence on the outside temperature is selected, at which the temperature in the boiler return would not lead to the formation of acid condensate.

I want to warn you right away that when using a non-condensing boiler and plastic pipes in the heating system, installing a street temperature sensor is almost pointless. Since we can design for the long-term service of plastic pipes, the temperature at the boiler supply is not higher than +70 degrees (+74 during the cold five-day period), and in order to avoid the formation of acid condensate, design the temperature at the boiler return is not lower than +60 degrees. These narrow "frames" make the use of weather-dependent automation useless. Since such frames require temperatures in the range of +70/+60. Already when using copper or steel pipes in the heating system, it already makes sense to use weather-compensated automation in heating systems, even when using a non-condensing boiler. Since it is possible to design the thermal mode of the boiler 85/65, which mode can be changed under the control of weather-dependent automation, for example, up to 74/58 and save on gas consumption.

I will give an example of an algorithm for changing the temperature at the boiler supply depending on the outside temperature using the Baxi Luna 3 Komfort boiler as an example (below). Also, some boilers, for example, Vaillant, can maintain the set temperature not on their supply, but on their return. And if you set the return temperature maintenance mode to +60, then you can not be afraid of the appearance of acid condensate. If at the same time the temperature at the boiler supply changes up to +85 degrees inclusive, but if you use copper or steel pipes, then such a temperature in the pipes does not reduce their service life.

From the graph, we see that, for example, when choosing a curve with a coefficient of 1.5, it will automatically change the temperature at its supply from +80 at a street temperature of -20 degrees and below, to a supply temperature of +30 at a street temperature of +10 (in the middle section flow temperature curve +.

But how much will the supply temperature of +80 reduce the service life of plastic pipes (Reference: according to manufacturers, guarantee period services plastic pipe at a temperature of +80, it is only 7 months, so do not hope for 50 years), or a return temperature below +58 will reduce the life of the boiler, unfortunately, there is no exact data announced by the manufacturers.

And it turns out that when using weather-dependent automation with non-condensing gas, you can save something, but it is impossible to predict how much the service life of the pipes and the boiler will decrease. Those. in the above case, the use of weather-compensated automation will be at your own peril and risk.

Thus, it makes the most sense to use weather-compensated automation when using a condensing boiler and copper (or steel) pipes in the heating system. Since weather-dependent automation will be able to automatically (and without harm to the boiler) change the thermal regime of the boiler from, for example, 75/60 ​​for a cold five-day period (for example, -30 degrees outside) to the 50/30 mode (for example, +10 degrees outside) street). Those. you can painlessly choose the dependence curve, for example, with a coefficient of 1.5 without fear of a high boiler supply temperature in frost, at the same time without fear of the appearance of acid condensate during thaws (for condensation, the formula is valid that the more acid condensate is formed in them, the more they save gas). For interest, I will lay out a graph of the dependence of the KIT of a condensing boiler, depending on the temperature in the return of the boiler.

3.KIT of the boiler depending on the ratio of the mass of gas to the mass of air for combustion.

The more it burns gas fuel in the combustion chamber of the boiler, the more heat we can get from burning a kilogram of gas. The completeness of gas combustion depends on the ratio of the mass of gas to the mass of combustion air entering the combustion chamber. This can be compared to the tuning of a carburetor in a car's internal combustion engine. The better the carburetor is tuned, the less for the same engine power.

To adjust the ratio of the mass of gas to the mass of air in modern boilers, a special device is used that doses the amount of gas supplied to the combustion chamber of the boiler. He is called gas fittings or electronic power modulator. The main purpose of this device is automatic modulation of the boiler power. Also, the adjustment of the optimal ratio of gas to air is carried out on it, but already manually, once during commissioning of the boiler.

To do this, when commissioning the boiler, you must manually adjust the gas pressure using a differential pressure gauge on special control fittings of the gas modulator. Two pressure levels are adjustable. For maximum power mode, and for minimum power mode. The methodology and instructions for setting up are usually set out in the boiler's passport. You can not buy a differential pressure gauge, but make it from a school ruler and a transparent tube from a hydraulic level or a blood transfusion system. The gas pressure in the gas line is very low (15-25 mbar), less than when a person exhales, therefore, in the absence of an open fire nearby, such a setting is safe. Unfortunately, not all service workers, when commissioning the boiler, perform the procedure for adjusting the gas pressure on the modulator (out of laziness). But if you need to get the most economical operation of your heating system in terms of gas consumption, then you must definitely perform such a procedure.

Also, when commissioning the boiler, it is necessary, according to the method and table (provided in the boiler passport), to adjust the diaphragm cross section in the boiler air pipes depending on the boiler power and the configuration (and length) of the exhaust pipes and combustion air intake. The correctness of the ratio of the volume of air supplied to the combustion chamber to the volume of supplied gas also depends on the correct choice of this section of the diaphragm. Correct this ratio ensures the most complete combustion of gas in the combustion chamber of the boiler. And, therefore, it reduces to necessary minimum gas consumption. I will give (for an example of a technique correct installation aperture) scan from the passport of the boiler Baxi Nuvola 3 Comfort -

P.S. Some of the condensers, in addition to controlling the amount of gas supplied to the combustion chamber, also control the amount of air for combustion. To do this, they use a turbocharger (turbine) whose power (revs) is controlled by the boiler processor. This boiler skill gives us additional opportunity save gas consumption in addition to all of the above measures and methods.

4. KIT of the boiler, depending on the temperature of the air entering it for combustion.

Also, the economy of gas consumption depends on the temperature of the air entering the combustion chamber of the boiler. The efficiency of the boiler given in the passport is valid for the temperature of the air entering the combustion chamber of the boiler +20 degrees Celsius. This is due to the fact that when colder air enters the combustion chamber, part of the heat is spent on heating this air.

Boilers are "atmospheric", which take air for combustion from the surrounding space (from the room in which they are installed) and "turbo boilers" with a closed combustion chamber, into which air is forcibly supplied by a turbocharger located in. Ceteris paribus, a "turbo boiler" will have greater gas consumption efficiency than an "atmospheric" one.

If everything is clear with the “atmospheric” one, then with the “turbo boiler” questions arise from where it is better to take air into the combustion chamber. The “Turboboiler” is designed so that the air flow into its combustion chamber can be arranged from the room in which it is installed, or directly from the street (using a coaxial chimney, i.e. a “pipe in pipe” chimney). Unfortunately, both of these methods have their pros and cons. When air enters from interior spaces at home, the temperature of the air for combustion is higher than when taken from the street, but all the dust generated in the house is pumped through the combustion chamber of the boiler, clogging it. The combustion chamber of the boiler is especially clogged with dust and dirt during finishing works in the house.

Don't forget that for safe work"atmospheric" or "turbo boiler" with air intake from the premises of the house, it is necessary to organize the correct operation of the supply part of the ventilation. For example, supply valves on the windows of the house must be installed and opened.

Also, when removing the products of combustion of the boiler up through the roof, it is worth considering the cost of manufacturing an insulated chimney with a steam trap.

Therefore, the most popular (including for financial reasons) are the coaxial chimney systems “through the wall to the street”. Where exhaust gases are emitted through the inner pipe, and combustion air is pumped in from the street through the outer pipe. In this case, the exhaust gases heat up the air drawn in for combustion, since the coaxial pipe acts as a heat exchanger.

5.KIT of the boiler depending on the time of continuous operation of the boiler (lack of “clocking” of the boiler).

Modern boilers adjust their own produced thermal power, under the thermal power consumed by the heating system. But the limits of auto-tuning power are limited. Most non-condensing units can modulate their power from about 45% to 100% of rated power. Condensing modulate power in a ratio of 1 to 7 and even 1 to 9. Ie. a non-condensing boiler with a rated power of 24 kW will be able to produce at least, for example, 10.5 kW in continuous operation. And condensing, for example, 3.5 kW.

If at the same time the temperature outside is much warmer than in a cold five-day period, then there may be a situation where the heat loss of the house is less than the minimum possible generated power. For example, the heat loss of a house is 5 kW, and the minimum modulated power is 10 kW. This will lead to periodic shutdown of the boiler when the set temperature at its supply (output) is exceeded. It may happen that the boiler will turn on and off every 5 minutes. Frequent switching on / off of the boiler is called “clocking” of the boiler. Clocking, in addition to reducing the life of the boiler, also significantly increases gas consumption. I will compare the gas consumption in the clocking mode with the gasoline consumption of the car. Consider that the gas consumption during clocking is driving in city traffic jams in terms of fuel consumption. And the continuous operation of the boiler is driving along a free highway in terms of fuel consumption.

The fact is that the boiler processor contains a program that allows the boiler, using the sensors built into it, to indirectly measure the thermal power consumed by the heating system. And adjust the generated power to this need. But this boiler takes from 15 to 40 minutes, depending on the capacity of the system. And in the process of adjusting its power, it does not work in the optimal mode in terms of gas consumption. Immediately after switching on, the boiler modulates the maximum power and only over time, gradually, by approximation, reaches the optimal gas flow. It turns out that when the boiler cycles more than 30-40 minutes, it does not have enough time to reach the optimal mode and gas flow. Indeed, with the beginning of a new cycle, the boiler begins the selection of power and mode again.

To eliminate the clocking of the boiler, a room thermostat is installed. It is better to install it on the first floor in the middle of the house and if there is a heater in the room where it is installed, then the IR radiation of this heater should reach the room thermostat at a minimum. Also on this heater, a thermoelement (thermal head) on a thermostatic valve should not be installed.

Many boilers are already equipped with a remote control panel. Inside this control panel is the room thermostat. Moreover, it is electronic and programmable according to the time zones of the day and the days of the week. Programming the temperature in the house by time of day, by day of the week, and when you leave for a few days, also allows you to save a lot on gas consumption. Instead of removable panel control, a decorative cap is installed on the boiler. For example, I will give a photo of the Baxi Luna 3 Komfort removable control panel installed in the hall of the first floor of the house, and a photo of the same boiler installed in the boiler room attached to the house with a decorative plug installed instead of the control panel.

6. Use of a greater share of radiant heat in heating devices.

You can also save any fuel, not just gas, by using heaters with more share radiant heat.

This is explained by the fact that a person does not have the ability to feel exactly the temperature. environment. A person can only feel the balance between the amount of heat received and given off, but not the temperature. Example. If we take an aluminum blank with a temperature of +30 degrees, it will seem cold to us. If we pick up a piece of foam plastic with a temperature of -20 degrees, then it will seem warm to us.

With regard to the environment in which a person is, in the absence of drafts, a person does not feel the temperature of the surrounding air. But only the temperature of the surrounding surfaces. Walls, floors, ceilings, furniture. I will give examples.

Example 1. When you go down to the cellar, after a few seconds you become chilly. But this is not because the air temperature in the cellar, for example, is +5 degrees (after all, air in a stationary state is the best heat insulator, and you could not freeze from heat exchange with air). And from the fact that the balance of the interchange of radiant heat with the surrounding surfaces has changed (your body has an average surface temperature of +36 degrees, and the cellar has an average surface temperature of +5 degrees). You begin to give off much more radiant heat than you receive. That's why you get cold.

Example 2. When you are in a foundry or steel shop (or just near a large fire), you get hot. But this is not because the air temperature is high. In winter, with partially broken windows in the foundry, the air temperature in the shop can be -10 degrees. But you are still very hot. Why? Of course, the air temperature has nothing to do with it. The high temperature of the surfaces, not the air, changes the balance of radiant heat transfer between your body and the environment. You begin to receive much more heat than you radiate. Therefore, people working in foundries and steel-smelting shops are forced to put on cotton trousers, padded jackets and hats with earflaps. To protect not from the cold, but from too much radiant heat. To avoid heatstroke.

From this we draw a conclusion that many modern heating specialists do not realize. That it is necessary to heat the surfaces surrounding a person, but not the air. When we heat only the air, first the air rises to the ceiling, and only then, descending, the air heats the walls and the floor due to the convective circulation of air in the room. Those. first warm air rises to the ceiling, heating it, then descends to the floor along the far side of the room (and only then does the floor surface begin to heat up) and then in a circle. With this purely convective method of space heating, there is an uncomfortable temperature distribution throughout the room. When is the most heat indoors at head level, medium at waist level, and lowest at leg level. But you probably remember the proverb: "Keep your head cold and your feet warm!".

It is no coincidence that SNIP states that in comfortable home, the temperature of the surfaces of the outer walls and floor should not be lower than average temperature indoors by more than 4 degrees. Otherwise, there is an effect that is both hot and stuffy, but at the same time chilly (including on the legs). It turns out that in such a house you need to live "in shorts and felt boots."

So, from afar, I was forced to lead you to the realization of which heating devices are best used in the house, not only for comfort, but also for fuel economy. Of course, heaters, as you may have guessed, must be used with the greatest proportion of radiant heat. Let's see which heating appliances give us the largest share of radiant heat.

Perhaps, such heating devices include the so-called "warm floors", as well as "warm walls" (which are gaining more and more popularity). But even among the usually most common heating devices, steel panel radiators, tubular radiators and cast iron radiators can be distinguished by the largest share of radiant heat. I have to assume that steel panel radiators provide the largest share of radiant heat, since manufacturers of such radiators indicate the share of radiant heat, while manufacturers of tubular and cast-iron radiators keep this secret. I also want to say that aluminum and bimetallic "radiators" that have recently received aluminum and bimetallic "radiators" do not have the right to be called radiators at all. They are called so only because they are the same sectional as cast-iron radiators. That is, they are called "radiators" simply "by inertia." But according to the principle of their action, aluminum and bimetal radiators should be classified as convectors, not radiators. Since the share of radiant heat they have is less than 4-5%.

At the panel steel radiators the proportion of radiant heat varies from 50% to 15% depending on the type. The largest share of radiant heat is in type 10 panel radiators, in which the share of radiant heat is 50%. Type 11 has 30% radiant heat. Type 22 has 20% radiant heat. Type 33 has 15% radiant heat. There are also steel panel radiators produced using the so-called X2 technology, for example, from Kermi. It represents type 22 radiators, in which it passes first along the front plane of the radiator, and only then along the rear plane. Due to this, the temperature of the front plane of the radiator increases relative to the rear plane, and, consequently, the share of radiant heat, since only IR radiation from the front plane enters the room.

The respected firm Kermi claims that when using radiators made using X2 technology, fuel consumption is reduced by at least 6%. Of course, he personally did not have the opportunity to confirm or refute these figures in laboratory conditions, but based on the laws of thermal physics, the use of such technology really saves fuel.

Conclusions. I advise you to use steel panel radiators in the entire width of the window opening in a private house or cottage, in descending order of preference by type: 10, 11, 21, 22, 33. When the amount of heat loss in the room, as well as the width of the window opening and the height of the window sill do not allow using types 10 and 11 (not enough power) and the use of types 21 and 22 is required, then if there is a financial opportunity, I will advise you to use not the usual types 21 and 22, but using the X2 technology. Unless, of course, the use of X2 technology pays off in your case.

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External low-temperature corrosion occurs as a result of the formation of drops or a film of moisture on the heating surfaces and reacts with the metal surface.

Moisture appears on the heating surfaces during the condensation of water vapor from flue gases due to the low temperature of the water (air) and, accordingly, the low temperature of the wall.

The dew point temperature at which water vapor condenses depends on the type of fuel being burned, its moisture content, excess air coefficient, and the partial pressure of water vapor in the combustion products.

It is possible to exclude the occurrence of low-temperature corrosion on heating surfaces when the surface temperature on the side of the gaseous medium is 5°C higher than the dew point temperature. This value of the dew point temperature corresponds to the condensation temperature of pure water vapor and appears during fuel combustion.

When fuel (fuel oil) that contains sulfur is burned, sulfuric anhydride is formed in the combustion products. Part of this gas, oxidized, forms aggressive sulfuric anhydride, which, dissolving in water, forms a film of sulfuric acid solution on the heating surfaces, as a result, the corrosion process is sharply enhanced. The presence of sulfuric acid vapor in the combustion products increases the dew point temperature and causes corrosion in those areas of the heating surface, the temperature of which is much higher than the dew point temperature and when burning natural gas is 55 ° C, when burning fuel oil - 125 ... 150 ° C.

In steam boilers, in most cases, the temperature of the water entering the economizer exceeds the required temperature because the water comes from atmospheric deaerators with a temperature of 102 ° C.

This issue is more difficult to solve for hot water boilers, since the temperature of the coolant in the external pipeline of the heat supply system entering the boilers depends on the outside air temperature.

It is possible to increase the temperature of the incoming water to the boiler by means of recirculation hot water from the boiler.

The efficiency and reliability of the water heating system of a water boiler depends on the flow rate of the coolant through the recirculation. With an increase in pumping, the temperature of the water entering the boiler increases, the temperature of the exhaust gases also increases, which means that the efficiency of the boiler decreases. The power consumption for the drive of the recirculation pump in this case increases.

Operating instructions for hot water boilers propose to regulate the operation of the heating water heating system in such a way that the temperature of the water at the inlet to the boilers during the combustion of natural gas does not fall below 60 ° C. This requirement reduces the efficiency of their operation, since anti-corrosion measures to maintain the temperature of the walls of the heating surfaces can be provided if the temperature is below 60 ° C. But in this case, it is necessary to take into account the temperature of the walls of the heating surface in the calculations.

An analysis of such calculations shows that, for example, for hot water boilers operating on natural gas, at a gas temperature of 140 ° C, the temperature of the water at the inlet to the boiler must be maintained at least 40 ° C, i.e. below 60 ° C, which the instructions suggest.

Thus, by changing the mode of operation of hot water boilers, it is possible to save heat and electricity in the absence of low-temperature corrosion. metal surfaces hot water boilers.

Gas equipment is ubiquitous in apartments and country houses. You independently regulate the equipment by setting comfortable temperature in room. So you are not dependent on utilities, you can save fuel as you see fit. But in order for the operation to be really economical, it is important correct setting gas boiler.

Why do you need the correct adjustment of equipment:

  • To save resources.
  • To make it comfortable to be in the room, use hot water.
  • To extend the life of the equipment.

Need to start with right choice boiler, its power. Consider the features of the room: the number and area of ​​​​windows, doors, the quality of insulation, wall materials. The minimum calculation is based on heat losses per unit of time. You will learn more about this in the article "".

gas boilers divided into single and double. The latter perform heating to the heating circuit and hot water supply (DHW). Single-circuit units provide only heating. Therefore, to obtain hot water, indirect heating boilers are installed.

According to the type of placement, the equipment is floor and wall. Floor-mounted units have more power. Therefore, they are used for large areas(from 300 m²). Installation is carried out only in separate rooms (boiler rooms). These are models Baxi (""), Buderus (""), "", "".

Mounted appliances (“Lux”, “”, “”, ) fit perfectly into small apartments in the kitchen. Therefore, it is important to take into account all the nuances of the location. The comfort of residents, as well as the durability of the boiler, depend on the correct selection of parameters.

Power setting

Heating power depends on modulation gas burner. If you have selected a device with electronic control, then it turns on the thermostat, which is connected to the room thermometer. Adjustment occurs automatically: the thermometer measures the temperature in the room. As soon as it falls below comfortable, he gives a command to start the burner or increase the strength of the flame.

In normal mode, the thermometer controls the temperature in only one room. But if you install valves in front of each radiator, control will be in all rooms.

You can adjust the burner manually by operating the gas valve. This is true for atmospheric boilers with open cam combustion. So, in the Protherm "Gepard", "Proterm Bear" models, the valve is controlled by an electric motor. To change the settings, you need to go to the service menu. Most often, this is done by a specialist, and the user performs the actions indicated in the instructions.

But still, we will tell you how to call the hidden menu for adjustment.

Before entering the menu and setting up, do this:

  • Open the taps on the batteries.
  • Set the room thermostat to the highest setting.
  • In the user settings, set the maximum temperature that you use in severe frosts. The burner always turns off when the reading reaches 5°C above the set value. For example, at +75 degrees, a shutdown will occur when it reaches 80 degrees.
  • Cool the coolant to 30°C.

For Protherm Gepard:

  • Hold down the Mode key on the panel. As soon as "0" appears on the display, set the value to 35 by pressing "+" and "-".
  • Press Mode to confirm.
  • As soon as d. 0, enter the line number in the menu. Do this with "+" and "-" d.(number). To set the maximum burner power, choose d.53, the minimum - d.52.
  • Use Mode to navigate to parameter selection. Change it "+" "-".
  • The installation receives an automatic confirmation.
  • Return to the original menu - hold Mode.

During regulation, use the panel to monitor the change in flame and temperature rise.

For "Proterm Panther" actions are different:

  • Press Mode for about 7 seconds.
  • Using keys 2 (look at the picture above), enter code 35.
  • Confirm your entry.
  • As soon as d.00 appears on the left side of the screen, use the 2 buttons to enter the number.

  • Change parameter from right side screen, you can use the keys 3.
  • After confirmation, press mode to exit the menu.

For Electrolux Quantum models:

  • Unplug the appliance from the mains for a few seconds.
  • After turning on the regulator, hold the red button for 15 seconds.
  • As soon as P01 lights up on the display, press the red key until P07 appears.

  • If the number 1 flashes after P07, then 38°C - 85°C is maintained. If it glows 4 - 60°С–85°С, 7 - 38°С–60°С.
  • Use the "+" "-" knob to adjust the desired value.
  • Switch off the boiler for a few seconds. Now it will automatically support the specified parameters.

How to program technology Viessmann ("Wiesman"), look at the video:

For Eurosit 630:

All the steps above are used to set the appliance in heating mode. Many users are faced with a problem when, in DHW mode, water of an unstable temperature comes out of the tap. To fix this, use our recommendations.

Hot water temperature changes

To regulate the water supply to comfortable levels, it is necessary to reduce the burner power.

  • Open the mixer to switch the boiler to DHW mode.
  • Set the temperature to 55°C.
  • Go to the service menu as described above (for "Proterm").
  • Select parameter d.53.
  • Click Mode.
  • After that, the maximum power will appear in the line. Let's take 17 as an example.

If you experiment and immediately select the minimum value - 90, then the temperature of the water from the tap will not be comfortable. We set 80 and we get an increase in the degree of water. Raise the values ​​little by little until you are satisfied with the DHW supply. In our case, the water reached +50 degrees, and the setting was 80. This is despite the fact that the factory was - 17. This is such a difference.

SIT valve adjustment

The automation of some units provides for the presence of a gas valve of the SIT type. It is found in the models Vaillant ("Vailant") and "Proterm". Adjustment is carried out by turning the bolts on the valve. To change the power, you need to change the pressure. Values ​​of 1.3–2.5 kPa are considered normal.

To reduce pressure, turn the bolts counterclockwise. To reduce the pressure in DHW mode, you need to rotate the adjustment nut. More details are shown in the video:

bypass valve

If the batteries in the room warm up unevenly, increase the coolant circulation rate. To do this, turn the bypass screw clockwise.

If, on the contrary, the liquid makes noise in the batteries when the heating is turned on, then reduce the coolant speed by turning the screw in reverse side. Use a pressure gauge or a digital differential pressure gauge to set up and measure. He will indicate the nominal pressure, which should not exceed 0.2–0.4 bar.

Launch problems

During launch and operation gas equipment Bosch, Ariston, Ferroli, Oasis may have problems.

Boiler clocking

At wrong choice the power of technology, excessive cyclicity occurs. This means that the burner of the device often turns on and off, and the radiators do not have time to warm up. Firstly, it leads to rapid wear of units and parts of equipment. Secondly, it is used a large number of fuel.

To eliminate the phenomenon and reduce the cyclicity, two methods are used:

  • Lower the burner flame.
  • Increase the heating power by including additional radiators in the circuit.

How to complete the first paragraph, we described above. Sometimes you have to mount additional batteries, although this is a rather expensive method.

Igniter not working

If ignition attempts at Immergaz, Korea Star were unsuccessful, inspect the igniter. He could get dirty. The problem is fixed by cleaning the part. You can wipe it with a dry cloth or use a solvent.

Examine the combustion block. Soot often accumulates there. Soot is removed by lightly tapping on the gas supply pipe to the burner.

The igniter worked, but there is still no ignition. Diagnosis required:

  • thermocouples;
  • supply valve;
  • thermostat;
  • solenoid valve.

No DHW heating

When the mixer is opened, water is supplied with a small pressure, the flow is cold. Inspect the heat exchanger for clogging caused by scale deposits. Clean the tubes with reagents. Use a pump to pump. Rinse the knot after the procedure running water. To make the temperature readings comfortable, install cleaning filters. They reduce the likelihood of scale formation.

Tell me about boilers and timing. When the predetermined coolant temperature is reached, should the boiler reduce gas consumption and reach the minimum (or so) power? As a result, there should be no clocking. Unless the minimum power turns out to be more than necessary to maintain the set coolant temperature.

Then the question is: how to find out the power range of the boiler (or, equivalently, the gas flow range). With the maximum it is clear - it is indicated everywhere.

Click to reveal...

In one room? As if in each individual room, the temperature can change (by + - 1 gr. at least) for reasons independent of the weather and the boiler (they opened the door to the next room, where the temperature is different, opened the window, people came in, turned on the .-l powerful device, the wind direction changed to the opposite - as a result, the temperature difference in the rooms was 1g: at one end of the house + 0.5g, at the other -0.5, total 1g, and so on). 1 degree is enough. For the whole house, 1 degree is very, very decent. You need to spend a lot of cubic meters of gas to raise the temperature in the house by 1 degree (especially if the house is > 200 square meters). And it turns out that for one sensor in one room, the boiler will have to scald at full power for a long time. And then the conditions in a specific room, where the sensor will change, and the boiler will have to turn off abruptly. And heating is a very inertial thing. There is a decent amount of water (hundreds of liters, if the house is not small), in order to raise the temperature in the premises by 1g, you must first heat all this water and only then it will give off heat to the premises of the house. As a result, the coolant will heat up, and in the room where the sensor is located, the conditions have already changed (the device was turned off, a lot of people left, the door to the next room was closed). That is, it seems like a signal to the boiler to lower the temperature IN THE WHOLE HOUSE, and the coolant is already heated, and there is nowhere to go, it will give off its heat to the house when, judging by the sensor in one room, it needs to be reduced .....

In general, the point is that it is probably not very correct to determine the operation of the boiler for the whole house from one temperature measurement point in the house, because. if the room is "normal", then temperature fluctuations independent of the weather and boiler operation are too large (more precisely, sufficient to change the boiler operation mode THEN, when the change in the integral temperature throughout the house is NOT ENOUGH to change the boiler operation modes), and will lead to a change in the operating mode of the boiler when it is not really necessary.

You need to know the integral temperature around the house - then, based on this temperature, you can determine the operating mode of the boiler. Because integral temperature around the house (especially in big house) changes very, VERY slowly (if you turn off the heating completely, then it will take more than 4 hours for it to fall by 1 gr.) - and this temperature changes by at least 0.5 gr. - this is already a sufficient signal to increase the gas flow to the boiler. From simple opening doors, from the fact that there are much more people in the house, etc. - from all this, the integral heat in the house will not change even by 0.1g. Bottom line - you need a bunch of sensors for different rooms and then reduce all the readings into one average (at the same time, for good, take not just the average, but the integral average, i.e. take into account not only the temperature of each specific sensor, but also the volume of the room in which this sensor is located).

P.S. For relatively small houses (probably 100m or less), probably, all of the above is not critical.

P.P.S. All of the above - imho

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