How to make a homemade trailer for a car. Making a homemade trailer with your own hands Make a car trailer for a car

Sometimes the trunk capacity of a passenger car is not roomy enough for many motorists, especially if transportation is required large cargo. A trailer is best suited to solve this problem.

Homemade trailers for cars

There are two types of trailers, manufactured by a specialized factory or home-made:

• Factory trailers do not require additional permits for their registration and registration. But at the same time, factory trailers do not always satisfy car enthusiasts with their technical characteristics, and if they do, then their price is prohibitively high. And the quality of the trailers themselves is not good high level, which requires additional investments after purchase to eliminate factory defects.
• A homemade trailer is a structure that a car enthusiast assembles according to his own drawing from a material that makes it obsolete in quality, while adhering to GOST standards for its assembly. As for the registration aspects of such a product, they are much more expensive than when registering a factory one, since additional permits are required to operate a homemade trailer.

If we look at it from an economic point of view, the cost of a homemade trailer, taking into account all registration costs, is significantly lower than buying a new one.

It is also worth considering that a homemade trailer will be of much higher quality than a factory one, if only because the entire manufacturing process will be controlled by the car enthusiast himself.

Set of tools and materials

The first thing you need to make your own trailer is a drawing.

It is also worth noting that the drawing must correspond GOST standards 37.001.220-80.

This standard specifies all the requirements that are necessary in order to obtain permission to operate a trailer and its further registration in the Interdistrict Registration and Examination Department.

In addition to the drawing, the following materials will be required to make a homemade trailer.

• Profile pipe 40x40 millimeters for constructing a trailer frame. You can use a pipe larger size, but it is worth considering that this will entail an increase in the mass of the structure.
• For sides it is recommended to use steel sheets thickness of at least 0.6 millimeters, but not more than 1 mm, as this can also lead to an unnecessary increase in the weight of the sight.
• For the bottom of a trailer you can use OSB sheets or polycarbonate. The amount of material is calculated from the bottom area of ​​the trailer.
• Metal beam 80x5 mm for the trailer axle.
• Hub for wheel mounting, will fit perfectly with the rear beam of the VAZ 2108.
• Two VAZ wheels with a diameter of R 13, R14 optional.
• Two shock absorbers from a Ural motorcycle.
• Two car shock absorber springs, can be used building from VAZ 2101 or ZAZ 969.
• Two-core braided wire for electrical wiring, approximately 10 meters.
• Side lights with stops and turns.
• Thick-walled metal pipe at least three meters long. D For the manufacture of a towing element.
• Towbar lock.
• Male and female connector for connection on-board network from the car.

To make a homemade trailer you will also need the following tools:

• Welding machine - preferably semi-automatic, but you can also use a regular arc one.
• Grinder and wheels for cutting metal.
• Drill and drill bits on metal.
• Roulette and hammer.
• Screwdrivers, wire cutters.

Once all the necessary tools and materials have been purchased, you can proceed directly to the assembly process itself without deviating from the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

DIY assembly

Materials for trailer assembly are cut according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

Assembling a homemade trailer consists of the following steps:

The trailer wiring is laid according to the same principle as in a car: the negative wire is attached to its frame (ground), and the positive wire is attached to the contact of the lighting fixture.

How to register a homemade trailer for a car?

To register with MREO A technical passport and product number are required.

Of course, a homemade trailer cannot have either the first or the second.

Therefore, in order to register a homemade trailer for it, it is necessary to provide documents that confirm that this product complies with GOST standards and is safe for use on roads public use.

In order to obtain a document on the safety of a homemade trailer, you need to contact an accredited testing laboratory. After conducting a series of tests, laboratory staff will issue (if the tests are successful) a certificate of the ability to safely use the trailer on public roads. With this document you can go to the MREO and legally register the trailer.

Also, do not forget that you will have to contact the office that deals with stamping numbers on vehicles, and only after the number is stamped on the frame of the trailer can you begin the process of registering it.

Registering a trailer

In order to register a homemade trailer, you will need the following documents:

• Statement to the head of the MREO for trailer registration.
• Identity card.
• Technical passport vehicle.
• Laboratory certificate authorizing the use of a trailer on public roads (for homemade trailers).
• Documents confirming ownership of the registered trailer(power of attorney, certificate of account).
• Receipts indicating payment of state duty and for the services of MREO.
• Registered trailer or technical inspection report.
• OSAGO insurance policy.

The trailer registration process consists of the following stages:

1. Writing an application. Having arrived at the MREO, you need to write an application addressed to the boss about registering the trailer. As a rule, a writing sample is issued along with the application form.
2. Payment for services and state fees. After writing the application, the person is given a bank account where it is necessary to pay the state duty, MREO services and for materials (registration certificate, license plates).
3. Submission of documents. After payment of the state fee and services has been made, the receipt along with the necessary documents and application is submitted to the registration window. Afterwards, you can go to the site and wait for the inspector who will inspect the trailer (if there is no inspection report).

It should be remembered that if the trailer was purchased new, then 10 days from the date of purchase are allotted for its registration. If the trailer is not registered within the specified period, the owner will have to pay a fine.

OSAGO for trailer

Oddly enough, you also need to purchase an insurance policy for the trailer. But, according to the law on compulsory motor liability insurance parts 2 and 3, not everyone is required to take out an insurance policy. Private owners of trailers for passenger cars who used them for personal purposes have the right not to purchase an insurance policy.

As for the list of trailers for which the purchase of an insurance policy is mandatory, it includes the following vehicles:

• Trailers for passenger cars of legal entities.
• Trailers for trucks and tractors.
• Trailers for buses.
• Trailers for motorcycles and scooters.

In order to take out an MTPL insurance policy, the trailer in mandatory must pass inspection. Otherwise, the policy will be denied.

Homemade dacha trailer made from a car trailer: photo of building a camper with detailed description, also a video showing a mobile home.

We decided to build a small residential house on wheels so that we could travel to nature in our car. Since we didn’t have drawings of the camper, we decided to make a removable module for the factory trailer (so that there would be no problems with re-registration of the vehicle).

This is why it was purchased boat trailer from Kurgan plant(only in their title they don’t specify what kind of trailer it is. It’s just a trailer; other manufacturers indicate that it’s a boat trailer and you can’t put a house on it).

The dimensions of the module corresponded to the dimensions of the trailer - 1400 x 2400 mm. Naturally, the removable module must be durable, and a plywood house definitely won’t work for our roads; we had to weld a steel frame.

The base is welded from a 60 x 30 mm profile, the walls and ceiling are made from a 20 x 20 mm profile. 2 identical arcs were bent on a pipe bender.

The most difficult thing was to think through the doors; it took us 1/3 of the total time spent on the doors. Anyone interested in this topic has seen factory doors, ventilation hatches, gas stoves, sinks, heaters, etc. etc. There is only one problem: cost. one factory door costs about 700-800 bucks (and you need 2 of them), a sunroof with an exhaust hood costs about 300-400 bucks, I didn’t even look at the sinks and stoves, and so it became clear that we would choose from what we found in hardware stores .

As a result, we made the doors ourselves, because with our course the budget for the doors alone came out to more than 100 thousand (on Alika, Ebay, in Europe, America, Russian online stores - the prices are approximately the same).
We decided to make the doors with power windows, because... This is the easiest way in our opinion. There is no point in describing the whole process, I will only say that making the doors was very tedious. but at cost they came out to 5 rubles per door, taking into account everything. the savings were worth it)
The outside of the body was sheathed with 0.8 mm aluminum sheets; we were looking for specially large sheets so that it could be covered with one sheet without joints. As a result, we found AMC2 sheets measuring 1500 x 3000 mm, which suited us quite well.

Now I would choose a composite material for cladding buildings, 4 mm thick (for those who don’t know, these are 2 sheets of 0.4 mm aluminum, and between them a special composite that ideally withstands all weather conditions).

We stuck aluminum onto a plywood backing, riveted it around the perimeter and sealed all the joints. It was possible to leave the trailer aluminum, but initially we wanted blue on the outside, so we ordered vinyl film for covering the vehicle from a printing house and covered it on top.
Many people ask about the refrigerator. There is no refrigerator, and there cannot be one, because... the module is removable, it has its own car battery. The module wiring is completely autonomous and is not connected to the wiring of the car or trailer in any way. Therefore, there is no way to connect a refrigerator here. Although I don’t understand the problem if it can be placed in the trunk of a car.
We also made 2 220V sockets in the living area, a 400W inverter, enough for both chargers and a TV. LED lighting everywhere.

Water is supplied from a canister by a fountain pump, not very powerful, but economical.
We made a niche for the countertop under the kitchen, it seemed very convenient, but in fact the ribs on top and bottom were from a 15 x 15 profile, very flexible and not reliable profile. As a result, the niche bent a little and the chipboard table did not fit there, so we had to make it out of plywood.
After assembly, the trailer was tested by Karcher at all joints, cracks, etc. 100% tightness.

Costs for building a caravan trailer.

We started building the camper in May 2015, and finished it in June 2016. My friend and I work in shifts, i.e. per week 2-3-4 days could be devoted to the trailer. We were very stuck with the kitchen decoration and doors. If you expect to collect it in 3 months, add triple the deadline.

In terms of finances: everything was bought new, nothing used was used. The trailer itself cost 44 thousand, and about 110 thousand was spent on materials. Everything was fixed, right down to the gloves, so the price is close to the real one. You can do it cheaper, but you should know in advance.

By weight: the trailer + module weighs about 600 kg, the module itself is about 460-480 kg. Increased severity large number Chipboard, who will do it - look for more lightweight material for partitions.

The 1.4 Octavia passenger car pulls the trailer with a bang. On the highway I accelerated to 130 km/h, the trailer is not felt at all, the streamlined shape practically does not slow down. consumption increases by 1-2 liters. It’s difficult to drive on a bad road above 90, after all, the weight is not small, it jerks the car. But 80-90 is quite acceptable for such a trailer. I drove through fields, along dirt roads, and the trailer never hit anywhere.

Video that explains in detail makeshift house on wheels.

If you have a car, then you are probably quite often faced with the need to transport all kinds of cargo. In this case, there is no way to do without using car trailer. It can, of course, be purchased at a relevant store, but it is possible to make such a design yourself.

Working on the frame

A homemade trailer, like a factory-type model, must have a frame, which is the basis of the structure. Its rigidity and strength will determine the durability of the trailer. In order to ensure greater reliability, it is recommended to use elements that will be connected to each other by welding. It is necessary to begin work by determining the dimensions of the element being described, or rather, width and length. The size will be determined by the outer edges of the frame components. In order to determine the final width of the frame, the thickness of one wall multiplied by 2 must be added to the distance between the inner edges of the side walls. If the frame will be located between the wheels and not above them, then the gap between the bolt and the tire should be taken into account.

If you decide to make a homemade trailer, then after determining the dimensions, you should try on the frame. To do this, the metal profile must be laid out on the surface, maintaining perpendicularity between the components. The elements must be connected to each other with clamps. At the same time, you should check the shape; to do this, use a tape measure to measure the diagonal of the resulting rectangle. The values ​​must be equal to each other, deviations can range from 2 to 5%. The structure must have a stiffening rib, because a square and a rectangle are unstable structures.

Connecting a trailer to a vehicle

A homemade trailer must have a chain ball. To perform of this element It must be remembered that a shorter length of the connecting part indicates a quick response when the vehicle is moving. Even a slight lateral turn of the drive wheels will cause the trailer to move abruptly. This may cause the load to become damaged and fall. When making a homemade trailer, you need to choose the optimal length - ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 cm. When choosing material, it is recommended to use steel sections, which will form the basis of the frame and connection. For the last element you will need 3 pipes. The frames can be connected to the pipe by welding, and for higher strength it is recommended to reinforce them using corners. Before welding, the master must try on the elements so that the coupling is made along the axis of the structure. When homemade trailers for a passenger car are made, at the same stage a safety cable should be installed, which can be replaced with a chain. If desired, you can install a folding wheel in the hitch area for comfortable transportation of the trailer without a vehicle.

Installation of the coupling

Homemade trailers for a passenger car must have installation that can be done using welding or bolts. Before final fixing this component to the frame, it is necessary to check that the dimensions of the frame pipes match the grooves of the gutter. The latter should not be larger than the width of the pipe; the excess in size can be a maximum of 5 millimeters. A welded joint can provide excellent strength, but if damaged, removal will require the use of a gas torch. The strength of a connection using a bolt is less. Bolts that belong to the eighth strength class should be used. Less durable ones will not be able to withstand shearing forces. To connect, you need to prepare two bolts, use more not worth it, as this will weaken the frame element, as well as the coupling due to the presence of holes for fasteners.

Working on the axis

Before registering a homemade trailer, it must be fully prepared for use. There is a rule according to which the trailer axle is located at a distance of 40% of the length of the structure from the rear side. After you can measure the distance, you need to indicate the location of the axis. It can be installed by placing the frame on the surface. In this case, you need to use two 4x4 blocks, and the spindle should hang freely. In the intended location for mounting the axle, paint must be removed from the surface of the frame. The step between the bushings must be divided into two, the resulting mark is marked on the surface.

A homemade trailer for a walk-behind tractor can be made using the same technology, but the dimensions will be much smaller. In order to check the dimensions, you need to measure the width of the frame again. After this, the master can begin final installation. The elements are connected to each other by welding. It is recommended to use a spring-shock-absorbing suspension for the reason that it guarantees more impressive softness, although it is less durable.

Working on stabilizing jacks

When making a homemade one, it is important to ensure the horizontal position of the structure. As the most suitable option the corners of the frame protrude. It is possible to install only on one side of the structure. If we consider the device from the point of view, it is recommended to use a screw mechanism. It can also be used to replace a wheel.

Summing up

Homemade, just like for a car, will be able to expand your capabilities. The latter option can be used to transport goods, no matter what configuration they have. There is absolutely no risk of damaging the car. Although the trailer may have its own certain features, the recommendations given above are common to all options. If desired, a homemade trailer for a boat or car can be equipped with a braking system, as well as lighting. However, experts recommend trusting professionals to resolve these issues.

Trailer registration

If you are thinking about how to make a trailer, then you should be interested in the task of registering it. The design must undergo an examination, which is what the All-Russian Society of Automobile Enthusiasts, abbreviated as SAI, does. Each region has its own society. To pass the examination, it is necessary to make sure that the device complies with the existing GOST. You can familiarize yourself with state standards in the document GOST 37.001. 220-80. Before registering a homemade trailer, you should know that the above standard applies to all types of trailers that are intended to be towed by minibuses, as well as cars on roads shared network. The standard does not apply to those devices, the design of which was carried out before the approval of the technical specifications of the mentioned standard.

Conclusion

Before you start making a trailer, you should familiarize yourself with state standards so that you don’t have to redo the design later. The weight of the device should not exceed that permitted by the manufacturer. The weight must not exceed the curb weight of the vehicle. This figure is 1800 kilograms. The length of the device should not be more than 1.5 car lengths or a limit of 8 meters. These requirements must be taken into account at the trailer design stage, otherwise it will be impossible to use the design.

How to make a trailer for a car with your own hands and what tools are needed when creating this type of “accessory” for a car?

On this page you will learn how to make a trailer for your iron horse with your own hands. We will definitely tell you what you will need for this, looking ahead, I will tell you that nothing supernatural is required, an ordinary tool such as an angle grinder, a screwdriver, an electric jigsaw, etc. Also pipes for the frame and much more that can be easily found at any construction base.

And upon completion of the manufacture of the trailer, you will learn how and where to register the trailer with the traffic police.

Sometimes, to solve the problem of lack of space in the trunk, the best option is to do. Even if the cargo you need to transport is not heavy, its dimensions may become an obstacle to normal placement in the trunk of your car. It is clear that there are different types of cars, and there are enough models with large and spacious luggage compartments, but now we are taking into account middle-class passenger cars, the percentage of which is the highest on our roads. For one-time transportation of such voluminous luggage around the city and beyond, you can use the services of a cargo taxi. If we are talking about multiple transportations, using a taxi may not be in an efficient way solving the capacity problem. One possible way out of this situation would be to use a trailer. There are two ways: buy a ready-made trailer or make DIY trailer for a car with your own hands. The first option saves you time both on production and on subsequent paperwork. And the second is money and time to find a trailer that matches your car model. We will consider the second option.

In order to make a trailer for a car with your own hands, we will need certain tools and materials, the availability of which should preferably be taken care of in advance.

Necessary materials and components for a homemade trailer

The frame is the basis of the trailer; it is its strength and rigidity that determines the durability of the trailer as a whole. For greater reliability, it is recommended to use a welded connection of elements. You should start by determining the dimensions of the frame - length and width. The size is determined by the outer edges of the frame elements. To determine the full width of the future frame, it is necessary to add 2 wall thicknesses to the distance between the inner edges of the side walls. If the frame is located directly between the wheels, and not above them, then you also need to take into account the gaps between the tire and the bead.

After determining the dimensions, the frame is tried on. Metal profile laid out on a flat surface, maintaining perpendicularity between the elements. The frame elements are combined with clamps. At this stage, the shape of the frame is controlled; for this, you need to measure two diagonals of the resulting rectangle with a tape measure. The obtained values ​​must coincide; in extreme cases, a size deviation of 2-5% is allowed. It is advisable to provide a stiffening rib in the design; a rectangle or square itself is a rather unstable structure under load.

If other trailers are used, it is better to choose a tow ball of the same size as theirs.

When performing this element of the trailer, you need to remember that the shorter the length of the connecting part, the faster the trailer will respond to the movement of the car. This means that even with a slight lateral movement of the drive wheels, the trailer will immediately move sharply behind them. This may result in damage to the cargo in the trailer and its fall. The optimal length is 1.5-2.5 m, depending on the purpose of the trailer. It is better to choose the material, as for the frame, steel pipes square cross section in the amount of three pieces.

The connection of the pipes to the frame is welded; for greater strength, it is recommended to reinforce it with corners. Before welding, fitting is performed so that the coupling is carried out exactly along the axis of the trailer.

A safety rope or chain is also mounted here. When moving, it should not drag on the ground. If desired, it is possible to install a small folding wheel at the hitch point for easy transportation of the trailer without a car.

Installation of the coupling is possible using bolts or welding. Before finally attaching it to the trailer frame, you need to once again check that the dimensions of the frame pipes and the groove of the gutter itself match. The width of the groove should not exceed the width of the pipe by more than 5 mm.

In the case of a welded fastening of the coupling, high strength of the connection is ensured, but if it is damaged, dismantling will require gas burner. The strength of a bolted connection is somewhat less. It is recommended to use bolts of the eighth strength class; less durable ones may not withstand shear forces. Two bolts are enough to connect, more of them will weaken the frame element and coupling due to the holes for the bolts.

There is a rule according to which the axle should be placed at a distance of 35-40% of the entire length of the trailer from the rear. Having measured the distance, you need to indicate the location of the future axis. You can install the axle by placing the frame upside down on the table (assembly from top to bottom). The axis in this case is mounted on a table, on a couple of 4x4 blocks, and the spindles hang freely. At the intended location for installing the axle, the paint is removed from the frame. The distance between the bushings is divided by two and this point on the axis is marked with a marker.

To control, the width of the frame is measured again, divided by two and the resulting distance is set aside from the middle of the axis, and its position is adjusted. After this, you can begin the final installation. The elements are combined spot welding along the entire length of the contact. It is better to use a spring-shock absorber suspension, as it provides greater softness, although it has low strength.

Stabilizing jacks

Necessary to ensure a horizontal position of the trailer. The best option for placement - the corners of the frame. The option of installation on only one side of the trailer is possible. From the point of view of lifting force, it is better to use a screw mechanism. It can even be used to change a wheel on a trailer.

The trailer is manufactured according to the design drawing, which must comply technical requirements, provided for by GOST 37.001.220-80, valid on the territory of the Russian Federation and Ukraine. It describes standards, if not met, it will be impossible to register a homemade trailer for a passenger car with the state traffic inspectorate, and all the time and money will be wasted.

Device boards

When making side walls, you can use wood boards, metal fragments, plywood panels or polycarbonate; the choice of the type of material depends on the purpose of the device. Due to its low weight and convenient form of processing, wood or plywood is most often used; initially, a flooring made of boards is attached to the base, it must be bolted, and the main box is also bolted to this base. But to add reliability, it is recommended to attach steel corners to the corners of the box.

Equipment and components

For the manufacture of a trailer weighing up to 750 kg, which does not require a driver's license with cat. BE will need the following equipment and components:

1. Square pipe or steel channel for making a frame and coupling assembly with vehicle. Its optimal cross-section is 25x50 mm, and the pipes are 40x40 mm. The length is selected depending on the dimensions specified in the drawing.
2. Sheet steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm. and above, from which the sides of the body will be cut and assembled. The number of sheets is calculated based on the height and length of the sides.
3. Thick sheet of plywood, OSB boards, plastic, polycarbonate or tin for making the bottom. Selected according to the size corresponding to its area.
4. Chassis. It is optimal to use the front axle removed from an old SZD (disabled) motorized wheelchair. An eight-leaf spring suspension is also often installed, which is mounted on rubber bushings. In appearance it is similar to the Volga car, but lighter. The springs are attached to the bridge beam with stepladders, and fillies are placed under them.

1. The bridge is made of a ∅25 mm pipe, to the ends of which axle shafts are welded. The hubs rotate on them. The axle pipe, axle shaft, fillet and springs are assembled into a single unit, connected with M8 bolts.
2. A pair of wheels. They are borrowed from a motorized stroller, in which case they will add minimal weight to the structure, or a VAZ car. The VAZ 2108 rear beam hubs are suitable for their installation.
3. Suspension. The best option would be the spring-hydraulic units of the Ural motorcycle due to their low cost and reliability.
4. Towing device (towbar) for coupling to the machine.
5. Brakes.
6. Electrical equipment (turning and parking lights, brake lights and the drive with which they will be connected to the vehicle).
7. Awning or material for it (banner fabric, tarpaulin, etc.).
8. Fastening devices (corners, brackets, etc.).
9. Tools for working with metal (grinder, screwdriver, electric jigsaw, drill, hammer, tape measure).
10. Welding machine.
11. Manufacturing and assembly of a homemade trailer for a car

The assembly of a passenger trailer occurs in accordance with the drawing and consists of several stages:

1. Frame assembly. This part of the product is a load-bearing part, and the durability of the trailer will depend on its strength. To do this, the pipe or profile is cut to size and welded together. The resulting rectangle is checked for accuracy and evenness of the assembly. Additionally, a stiffener is provided, since the rectangular frame is unstable under load.
2. Connection point to the vehicle. When making it, you need to keep in mind that the shorter it is, the faster the trailer will respond to vehicle maneuvers. Optimal length the connecting part will be 1.5-2 m. The same material is used for its manufacture as for the frame. Before starting welding, the correct placement of the parts to be joined is checked so that the coupling is in the middle. To ensure that the connecting part does not break under load, safety cables are mounted and welded at the bottom of the structure.

1. Coupling coupling. Serves to attach the connecting part of the trailer to the vehicle. Can be mounted either with bolts or welding. The first method is less reliable, but can be easily dismantled. The welded assembly is durable, but may require a gas torch to remove it. For bolted connections, samples of the eighth strength class are selected.
2. Axle assembly. According to general rules, the axle is mounted at a distance of 40% from the rear side of the trailer, that is, it is slightly shifted from the center to the rear. Fastening occurs using a bolted connection, a frame is installed on it, and also connected with bolts.
3. Stabilizing jacks are a desirable but not required part of the structure. They ensure the trailer is level when driving. The best option for their placement is in the corners of the frame.

1. Flooring on the side walls. It is made of metal, plastic, wood or other material, depending on the cargo that is planned to be transported. It is secured with bolts, after which the sides are mounted on the frame. The corners are reinforced with metal corners.

1. Finishing. They did and the components are painted, after which the power connection route for electrical appliances is drawn. Headlights, lanterns and reflectors must be installed. Connection to a single network is made using the towbar socket. If necessary, a homemade trailer is equipped with a braking system.

Purpose and features of a passenger car trailer

A passenger car trailer is intended for transporting goods. various types, tourist equipment and small tourist boats, the length of which does not exceed 3.5 m. Consists of a frame, suspension, body, axle, and is connected to the vehicle by a coupling device. Trailers for passenger cars, manufactured at the factory, do not require additional permits for registration, but are not always suitable for motorists in terms of characteristics or cost.

A homemade trailer for a passenger car is made according to the drawing and adhering to GOST when manufacturing and assembling it yourself. Registration of such a product is much more expensive, as it requires additional permits for operation. Moreover, all manufacturing costs, taking into account registration costs, will be lower than purchasing a new one. It should be taken into account that a homemade trailer is not inferior in quality to a factory trailer, since the manufacturing process is controlled by its owner.

Register a trailer with the traffic police

To register a trailer with the traffic police, it is necessary to carry out an examination of the trailer. This is what the All-Russian Society of Automobile Enthusiasts (VOA) does. Each region has its own. Here are the addresses of SAI branches known to me: 1. St. Petersburg. st. Zhukovsky, 55 tel. 273-47-30 VOA Alexey Pavlovich,

2. Perm All-Russian Society of Motorists, tel. 12-83-14 and 12-69-65,

3. Moscow State Scientific Center of the Russian Federation Federal State Unitary Enterprise NAMI tel. 456-32-31 Fedorov Artyom.

To pass the examination, the trailer must comply with the following GOST.

TRAILERS FOR PASSENGER VEHICLES

Parameters, dimensions and general technical requirements

OST 37.001. 220-80

This standard applies to all types of trailers intended for towing by cars and minibuses on the roads of the general USSR network. The standard does not apply to trailers technical specifications, the design of which was approved before the introduction of this standard. The main terms used in the standard and their definitions are given in the reference appendix.

1. PARAMETERS AND DIMENSIONS

1.1. The total design weight of the trailer must not exceed that permitted by the manufacturer of the towing vehicle, must not exceed the curb weight of the towing vehicle, and must not exceed 1800 kg.

1.2. The total structural weight of an unbraked trailer must not exceed that permitted by the manufacturer of the towing vehicle and must not be more than half the curb weight of the towing vehicle.

1.3. Vertical static load at ball joint center coupling device for any weight condition of the trailer, it must correspond to the value permitted by the manufacturer of the towing vehicle, but should not be less than 240 N (25 kgf) and more than 980 N (100 kgf).

1.4. The length of the trailer should not be more than 1.5 times the length of the main towing vehicle or more than 8 m.

1.5. The width of the trailer must not exceed the width of the main towing vehicle by more than 200 mm on each side and must not be more than 2.3 m.

1.6. The height of the trailer should not be more than 1.8 times the trailer track width or more than 3 m.

1.7. The center of gravity of a loaded trailer must be located in such a way that the ratio of the height of the center of gravity to the track of the trailer wheels is no more than 0.725.

1.8. The ground clearance of the trailer should not be less than the ground clearance of the main towing vehicle.

1. TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS

2.1. General requirements

2.1.1. Trailers must be single-axle, but a tandem axle can be used.

2.1 2 A trailer with a horizontal inner floor, installed on a horizontal surface, must have a load of no more than 55% of its total weight on the tire(s) of one side.

2 1.3. The design of the trailer must be designed for movement as part of a road train of the full structural mass with maximum speed permitted by the manufacturers of traction vehicles.

2.1.4. The design and dimensions of the trailer drawbar (frame) must ensure the possibility of its deflection relative to the coupling ball installed on the vehicle at the angles specified by OST 37.001.096-77.

2.1.5. Trailers must be equipped with two non-removable safety chains (cables), which in the event of an emergency breakage (breakage) of the towbar should not allow the drawbar to touch the road surface, while ensuring control of the trailer.

2.1.6. Trailers must have two wheel chocks (“shoes”).

2.1.7. Trailers must have space for a jack.

2.1.8. The control unit for the parking brake system of trailers must be removable and located with right side in front of the drawbar (frame).

2.1.9. Trailers must be equipped with wheel protective devices (fenders, mudguards) if body parts do not perform the functions of this device.

2.1.10. The materials used for the manufacture of trailers must have resistance to fire from exposure to water, fuel and oils no lower than the resistance of materials of parts and assemblies for similar purposes of the main traction vehicle.

2.1.11. Trailer painting and inspection appearance coatings according to GOST 7593-80.

2.1.12. The trailer must have a climatic design in accordance with GOST 15150-69, corresponding climatic version main traction vehicle, and must be designed for storage conditions in open areas.

2.1.13. The service life of the trailer in accordance with its purpose and operating conditions is regulated by regulatory and technical documentation approved in the prescribed manner.

2.2. Requirements for systems, components and assemblies

2.2.1. Trailer brake systems must comply with the requirements of OST 37.001.016 70.

2.2.2. The locking device for coupling with a traction vehicle must comply with the requirements of OST 37.001.096-77.

2.2.3. Electrical equipment, external lighting and signaling devices must comply with the requirements of GOST 3940-71. GOST 8769-75, GOST 10984-74 and GOST 20961-75.

2.2.4. Trailers must have brackets (or space) for attaching a license plate in accordance with GOST 3207-77.

2.2.5. To connect to the vehicle's electrical system, the trailer must have a plug in accordance with GOST 9209-76 with a connecting cable.

2.2.6. Trailers must have support legs that ensure the stability of the trailer when uncoupled and do not impair the cross-country ability of the road train.

With a vertical static load of locking device trailer over 390 N (40 kgf), the front support leg must be equipped with a lifting-lowering mechanism that ensures installation of the locking device in the position required for coupling (uncoupling). At manual drive mechanism, the force on the handle should not be more than 118N (12 kgf).

1. COMPLETENESS

3.1. Trailers equipped with tires that are not unified with the main traction vehicle must have a spare wheel and a device for securing it.

3.2. Trailers must be accompanied by necessary tools and accessories if the set of tools and accessories of the main towing vehicle is insufficient to service the trailer.

1. MARKING

4.1. Trailers must have a nameplate and markings in accordance with industry regulations and technical documentation.

4.2. Trailers must have an additional sign near the locking device in accordance with GOST 12971-67 indicating the total structural weight of the trailer; the maximum static load on the coupling ball.

Terms and definitions adopted in this standard TermDefinition Main traction vehicleAccording to GOST 3163-76 Twin axleTwo parallel axles of the trailer, the distance between which does not exceed 1 m.

If your trailer meets these requirements, passes an examination, and has receipts, certificates, and a copy of the welder’s certificate, you will not have any problems registering with the traffic police.

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Source
amotormag.ru
voditelauto.ru
i4car.net