Glue the contact on the heater for good warmth. How to make a heater with your own hands: available options for devices for self-assembly. Homemade #2 - mini heater made of foil and glass

During the cold season, the need for heat especially increases. But not every owner has the opportunity to purchase a factory-made heater. There is nothing difficult about assembling a heater with your own hands.

We bring to your attention four options for creating a heating device from improvised means that will perfectly cope with the task assigned to it. We have described in detail the process of making homemade products. Described the principle of operation and features of operation.

TO step by step guides We have attached diagrams, photo selections and video instructions.

The simplest models of homemade heaters are designed for local heating. Their maximum temperature heating is about 40°C.

Most heating homemade products are radiating devices that operate on the same principle as electric radiators. Connect them to single-phase network with traditional household facilities 220 V. For those wishing to do self-production devices requires knowledge in the field of electrical engineering and electrical installation.

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Option #1. Homemade compact thermal film

The heater will be based on two pieces of glass. These are identical rectangles measuring 4x6 cm.

The length and width of the heater's working area may vary. The main thing is that the area of ​​each glass is about 25 square centimeters.

To create such a homemade heater you will also need:

• copper two-core cable;
• multimeter;
• paraffin candle;
• wooden block;
• pliers;
• sealant; epoxy glue;
• cotton napkin;
• hygiene sticks.

Before starting work, the cable must be equipped with a plug.

The heating element will be a piece of aluminum foil used by housewives for baking, the thickness of which is 0.1 mm

First of all, clean the glass blanks, removing dust and remaining dirt with a napkin, degrease and dry thoroughly. The cleaned workpieces are cooled. This is necessary so that during subsequent firing the carbon deposits better on the surface.

Light a candle placed in a candlestick. And then, one by one, grab each glass piece by the corner with pliers and carefully move it over the candle so that the glass becomes covered with soot. It is necessary to achieve uniform deposition of carbon deposits on the entire surface of the glass; the burned part will act as a conductive element.

Manipulations with the candle will have to be interrupted periodically in order to allow the heated glass to cool slightly.

The main advantage of such a device is that a significant part of the thermal energy is released by the material heated to a certain temperature in the form infrared radiation

After the workpieces have cooled, the edges of each of them are cleaned. To do this, using hygiene sticks along the perimeter contour, remove 5 millimeters from the edge.

Glue is evenly applied to the burned part, which will act as a conductive element, and a pre-prepared piece of foil is placed on top of it. The strips will serve as the terminals needed to connect the wires.

The same actions are performed with the other half. Both parts are connected. To ensure the tightness of the device, the joints are treated with sealant, covering the end around the entire perimeter.

To make heating elements, two strips are cut out of foil, the width of which corresponds to the size of the smoked area on the glass blanks

In order to calculate the power of the device, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the carbon coating using a tester. The multimeter probes are applied to the hanging “tails” of aluminum foil. The obtained data is used in calculations using the formula:

N=I 2 x R,

Where " N" – power, " I" is the current strength, and " R" - resistance.

Power should not exceed valid values at 1.2 W. If the resistance exceeds 120 ohms, in order to reduce it, it is necessary to make the carbon layer a little thicker. The following rule applies here: the more soot, the less electrical resistance.

If the parameters are within normal limits, proceed to the final stage of assembly. To do this, the cleaned edges of the workpieces are smeared with glue, and the free ends of the foil sections are folded and glued to one of the sides.

A stand is made from a wooden block and contact pads connected to an electrical cord are mounted on it.

A structure assembled from glass and foil is installed on a wooden platform and the device is connected to a 12-volt source.

Option #2. Heating panel from the remains of the infrared floor

If, after installing an infrared heating floor, there are scraps of film left over, you should safely use them to make a wall heater, for example, for a summer house or garage.

Using scraps of infrared film left over after installing heated floors in the house, you can build a wall panel, and, if desired, decorate it with a laminated large-sized photograph

Infrared film consumes less energy than other heating electrical devices. For small room approximately 2x2 m, 1 m is enough.

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Now you need to carefully insulate everything so that the film does not spark at the contacts and does not create any threats during its own operation.

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Option #3. Fan heater made from improvised means

We offer one more affordable way manufacturing homemade device for local heating, which is based on the operating principle. It will take no more than two hours to make. The main advantage of such a device is the ease of manufacture and availability of the necessary materials.

The disadvantages of the design include the fact that during the heating process it will burn oxygen, and in some cases even smell like burning.

The device body will be made of tin can 20 cm high with a diameter of 10 cm, and the strips for winding the nichrome spiral are made of non-foil PCB

In addition to the tin can, to assemble the heating structure you need to prepare:

• 12 Volt transformer;
• diode bridge;
• nichrome wire with a cross section of 1 mm 2;
• fan;
• hammer drill with a thin drill;
• soldering iron;
• computer fan.

It is necessary to pre-cut two blanks from the PCB, the size of which corresponds to the dimensions of the selected can. To connect the device to the network and switch modes, you will also need an electrical cord and a push-button switch.

First of all, remove the foil from the piece of PCB and cut it out inner part so that it looks like a frame.

Using a thin drill, holes are made in the textolite blank, placing them with a slight offset relative to each other

The ends of the nichrome wire are buried in the holes made. The “tails” of electrical wires, stripped of insulation, are soldered to the free ends of the wire placed under the frame.

The current density in nichrome electrical spirals in contact with air is about 12-18 A/mm 2 . Depending on the degree of heating, their color saturation will change from dark burgundy to bright red. The temperature of the outer surface of the emitter does not exceed 70 degrees.

Take a transformer, a diode bridge and a cooler and close them with a fixed nichrome wire into a single circuit, not forgetting to connect the switch

A diode rectifier and a small-sized 12 V transformer are needed to power the cooler.

To be able to regulate the temperature, it is worth considering the option of installing at least two separated spirals. In addition, by connecting the spirals in parallel, if one burns out, the others will not be affected.

The main thing when assembling the structure is that the wound spirals do not touch any parts other than the textolite frame.

The fan is mounted in the can using a bracket in the form of a U-shaped metal part, secured with a bolt. The current will heat the turns of the wire, and the fan will blow the structure with a warm stream of air.

TO assembled structure PCB is attached, after which the elements connected into a single chain electrical device placed in a jar

To ensure free access of air, 20-30 holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm are drilled in the lid and walls of the jar. The assembled device is directly connected to a 220V network and its functionality is checked. For safety reasons, the radiating surface can be covered with a protective mesh.

This fan heater is suitable for heating a small room. Like industrial ones, it will warm up the middle of the room in just a few minutes, without wasting precious heat on heat loss that passes through the walls.

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Those who want to make their own garage heater using improvised materials will find a lot of useful information on another one of our sites.

Homemade low-power devices

The models described above are suitable only for local heating. To heat a room, you need to build a more powerful heater, the manufacturing technology of which will be discussed below.

Option #1. Creating an oil device

Made with my own hands has high efficiency and is also quite functional and safe. The principle of operation of the device is based on the fact that a heating element located inside the housing heats up the oil located near it, as a result of which the convection movement of flows is activated.

The body of the product can be made from a sectional heating system battery, a car radiator, or welded from steel pipes

To ensure smooth power adjustment, the device is equipped with a rheostat or discrete switches. To automate the process, a thermostat and a rollover sensor are additionally installed.

To do oil heater you need to prepare in advance:

• Heating element with a power of 1 kW (for a room with an area of ​​10 square meters);
• durable and sealed housing, the design of which completely eliminates liquid leakage;
• clean and heat-resistant technical oil is taken at the rate of 85% of the total volume of the housing;
• control and automation devices are selected in accordance with the total power load of the device.

An important point when purchasing a cartridge tent, do not forget to check that it comes with silicone gaskets or their analogues made of oil-heat-gasoline-resistant rubber.

In order not to deal with welding, a dismantled one can be used as a housing, dismantled due to the modernization of the public building system.

The design, which is impressive in size, will require the construction of a platform. It can be made from channels or steel angles. When drawing up a diagram, the frames are based on the capacity of the container and the height of the product.

Device connection diagram and assembly sequence structural elements is clearly presented in the figure

Difficulty may arise at the stage of welding elements. After all, to perform the work you need to have the appropriate skills. First of all they cut profile pipe into segments of a given length. Rectangular frames are assembled from them.

A hole is cut out in the corner of the structure to accommodate the heating element. In the most high point radiator, a hole is cut out to allow oil to be filled and equipped with a fitting with external thread, on top of which a lid is installed.

Before putting the heating device into operation, it must be tested for leaks by creating high pressure in the middle of the device

When assembling the structure, you should pay attention to a number of points:

1. It is better to place the heating element in the side or bottom of the structure, fixing it with bolted connections. This solution will ensure better oil circulation. Under no circumstances should it come into contact with the body.
2. To activate the process of natural convection of liquid, add a pump and electric drive to the design. To fix the pump to the container, you need to weld small metal plates.
3. Do not forget to provide openings equipped with valves to allow emergency pressure relief by draining the oil. The pumps are located at the bottom of the radiator in the corners.
4. To ensure the durability of the structure, preventing the development of electrocorrosion, take into account the compatibility of the body metal and the heating element. Due to the potential difference between metals, you should not combine ordinary steel or aluminum with copper.
5. IN mandatory Ground the heater.

The structure is not completely filled with oil, but only 85%. This is necessary so that the 15% allocated to air serves as a buffer zone during oil expansion due to increased temperature.

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An old cast iron battery would be an excellent housing for a homemade oil heater.

If there is no point in saving, a completely new bimetallic radiator is suitable for use as a housing for heating equipment

After checking the tightness of the holes, all that remains is to connect the heating element, install the housing and pour oil inside. To increase the mobility of the structure, it can be equipped with wheels and additional fastening elements.

Option #2. Making an infrared device

The undeniable advantage of such a device is that the generated thermal energy is released in the form of infrared radiation. Thanks to this, a heater created on the basis of a carbon element warms up not only the air, but also people and objects located in the infrared radiation zone.

The basis of such a device, created according to the type, will be two plastic blanks, the area of ​​each of which is about 1 square. Fine-grained graphite powder will be applied to them, the structure somewhat reminiscent of flour.

Keep in mind that graphite powder, which acts as a conductive mixture, is an extremely dirty substance, and besides, it is very dangerous to health

To make an effectively working IR heater with your own hands, you also need to prepare:

• two copper terminals;
• epoxy glue;
• wooden blanks for the frame.

As in previous options, you will need an electrical cord equipped with a plug.

Graphite powder can be “mined” from used batteries. To obtain the required heater power experienced craftsmen It is recommended to introduce up to two volumes of carbon filler. The finished product produces a thick and viscous mixture, which is quite difficult to apply with a thin film. To simplify the task, use a narrow spatula.

The graphite composition diluted with glue is laid out on plastic blanks, making a meandering path, not forgetting to retreat the allotted distance

Sequence of actions:

1. Graphite is mixed with epoxy glue in a ratio of 1:1.5 or 1:2.
2. Place a plastic blank on the work surface smooth side downwards
3. The finished mixture is spread in a thin layer on plastic, forming a zigzag pattern.
4. Place a second sheet of plastic on top of the laid out pattern.
5. The second plate is prepared using the same technology. Both workpieces are compressed tightly and wait until adhesive composition will harden.
6. Terminals are fixed to the blanks on opposite sides of the graphite conductor, following the diagram presented above.
7. The stripped ends of the electrical cable are connected to the terminals.
8. Connect the device to the network and check the functionality of the system.

Measuring the conductor resistance and calculating the power of the assembled device is performed following the technology described above.

The resistance parameter is affected by the amount of graphite in the mass. To increase the resistance of the conductor, you need to increase the dose of graphite in the composition.

To increase structural rigidity, the device can be framed wooden frame. To improve the design, add a simple thermostat.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video #1. Overview of the spiral heater manufacturing option:

Video #2. Homemade infrared heater 1kW power:

We examined only a few options for making heaters from improvised materials. In fact, there are a great many of them. If you wish, you can design and manufacture such a device yourself. And your reward will be the desired warmth in inclement weather.

Do you want to offer own version making a heater? Do you have any questions or useful information for us and site visitors? Please leave comments in the block below.

A simple homemade panel heater: assembly diagram, photo of production.

With the onset of cold weather the theme residential heating becomes relevant, and many are wondering how to additionally heat a living room, workroom, cottage or garage using a heater. In this article we will look at how to make a simple, cheap and at the same time safe electric heater.

The cross-section and length of the wire must be selected based on the required power of the heater; you can use the table provided.

If you need a 500 W heater, you will need nichrome wire with a cross section of 0.4 mm and a length of 9.7 meters.

To calculate the length of the wire, you can use the table.

You will also need materials:

• Epoxy glue.
• Bolts, washers, nuts – 2 pcs.
• Wire and plug.

Electrical diagram of a homemade heater.

Let's start making the heater.

Each sheet of fiberglass must be cleaned on one side grinder, it will be inner side heater.

We take one sheet of fiberglass, we will lay it on it nichrome wire. Depending on the size of the sheet, you need to calculate the number of turns of wire, taking into account the distance from all edges of the sheet of 20 - 30 mm. Optimal distance between turns 10 - 15 mm.

For example: if our fiberglass sheet is just over a meter long, then to lay 24 meters of wire you will need to make approximately 24 turns.

For convenience, before laying the wire, it is advisable to draw a frame for the turns on the sheet.

Now you need to lay the wire in coils along the frame; you can fix the coils with paper strips and Monolith glue.

At the point where the wire exits, you need to drill two holes in the fiberglass, make terminals and connect the cord to the plug.

We check the integrity of the circuit with the device.

Now you need to glue the second sheet of fiberglass to the first using epoxy glue. Epoxy glue is applied along the edges of the sheet and between the turns of wire.

We glue the sheets together so that the sheets stick together evenly, they need to be laid on a flat surface, pressed on top chipboard sheet or plywood and press down with a weight. After a day, the sheets will be firmly glued together, and the heater will be ready.

A homemade heater can be hung on the wall, and it will not take up space in the room.

The heater itself is safe, since the heating element is hidden in fiberglass, which is an insulating material, but you still need to follow safety precautions and not leave the heater unattended.

The main thing is safety.

When is a homemade heater needed for a home, cottage or garage? Making heating devices with your own hands ordinary people pushes the lack of central heating (in the case of a garage or country house). For the home, homemade heating equipment will be needed during the construction work or in autumn-spring period, when the centralized heat supply is either not yet turned on or has already been stopped. By the way, this is the best time to do it.

People make a home heater with their own hands in order to save on the purchase of factory-made equipment, the price of which can be very high. However, regardless of the reasons why homemade heating devices are made, all work must be carried out professionally and in strict accordance with government regulations safe operation similar equipment.

The right homemade heater for the home

Regardless of the type of heating equipment manufactured and the type of energy carrier used, the equipment must meet the following requirements:

• differ in ease of manufacture;
• have a low cost of structural materials and elements;
• have high productivity;
• sufficient power;
• be safe to use;
• be economically profitable in terms of energy production and consumption;
• as compact as possible;
• simple and easy to use.

Any factory-made heater can boast of safety, economy and efficiency. For homemade equipment characterized by increased power, productivity, ease of use, but safety is a controversial issue. That is why any homemade heater for the home needs to be checked before mass use.

Efficient infrared emitter

Any infrared emitter that is used to heat a room is characterized by efficiency and high efficiency. All this is achieved thanks to a unique operating principle. Waves in the infrared spectrum do not interact with air, but increase the surface temperature of objects in the room.

They subsequently transmit thermal energy air. Thus, the maximum of radiant energy turns into thermal energy. Exactly for the reason high efficiency and efficiency, and also due to the low cost of structural elements, infrared heaters are increasingly being made independently by ordinary people.

IR emitter based on graphite dust.

Epoxy glue.

operating in the infrared spectrum, can be made from the following elements:

• graphite crushed to dust;
• epoxy glue;
• two equal sized pieces transparent plastic or glass;
• wire with plug;
• copper terminals;
• thermostat (optional);
• wooden frame, comparable to pieces of plastic;
• brush.

Crushed graphite.

First, prepare the work surface. To do this, take two pieces of glass of the same size, for example 1 m by 1 m. The material is cleaned of contaminants: paint residue, greasy hand marks. Alcohol will come in handy here. After the surfaces have dried, they proceed to preparing the heating element.

The heating element here is graphite dust. It is a conductor of electric current with high resistance. When connected to the power supply, the graphite dust will begin to heat up. Having reached a sufficient temperature, it will begin to emit infrared waves and we get a DIY IR heater for the home. But first, our conductor needs to be fixed to work surface. To do this, you need to mix carbon powder with the adhesive until a homogeneous mass is formed.

Homemade room heater.

Using a brush, we make tracks from a mixture of graphite and epoxy onto the surface of previously cleaned glass. This is done in a zigzag manner. The loops of each zigzag should not reach the edge of the glass by 5 cm, while the graphite strip should end and begin on one side. In this case, there is no need to make indentations from the edge of the glass. Terminals for connecting electricity will be attached to these places.

We place the glass on top of each other with the sides on which graphite is applied, and fasten them with glue. For greater reliability, we place the resulting workpiece in a wooden frame. Copper terminals and a wire are attached to the exit points of the graphite conductor on different sides of the glass to connect the device to the electrical network. Next, homemade room heaters need to be dried for 1 day. You can connect a thermostat in the chain. This will simplify the operation of the equipment.

What are the advantages of the resulting device? It is made from improvised materials, and therefore has a low cost. It heats up no higher than 60°C, and therefore you cannot get burned on its surface. The glass surface can be decorated at your discretion with film with a variety of designs, which will not violate the integrity of the interior composition. Do you want to make homemade gas heaters for your home? The video will help solve this problem.

Film IR heating device. To fully heat a medium-sized room, it is recommended to use ready-made film materials capable of emitting infrared waves. They are abundantly present in the modern market.

When buying film material, you need to pay attention to the composition of its heating element. The latter must not contain lead. It is dangerous to health. A quality product must be accompanied by a quality certificate.

Required structural elements:

Preparing the wall surface for a homemade heater for an apartment begins with fastening the thermal insulation. Its thickness should be at least 5 cm. To do this, remove protective film with a self-adhesive layer and polystyrene is attached to the surface with the foil facing up. In this case, the material must be pressed tightly against the wall. An hour after completion of work, you can proceed to the next stage.

Sheets of IR film are connected to each other in series. On reverse side glue is applied to the material using a spatula. All this is attached to previously installed polystyrene. For reliable fixation the heater will take 2 hours. Next, a cord with a plug and a thermostat are attached to the film. The final stage is decoration. To do this, the prepared fabric is attached over the film using decorative corners.

Making an oil heater with your own hands

Homemade register with heating element and air vent.

Firstly, the container for the future radiator must be absolutely sealed. Otherwise, the coolant will leak out, which will lead to overheating of the heating element (heating element). Therefore, you need to master some techniques for properly welding metal. We talked about them in the article about.

Secondly, the coolant here should be mineral oil, if possible - transformer oil. It should fill the heater tank to 85%. The rest of the space is left for air. It is necessary to prevent water hammer. Thirdly, in the case of using a cast iron tank for the heater, a steel heating element is used. For a stainless steel tank, a copper heating element is suitable. Magnesium anodes cannot be used in this system.

Use a sketch.

Source materials:

• old, cast iron radiator or steel pipes with a diameter of 15 cm, pipes with a diameter of 7 cm;
• transformer oil;
• thermostat;
• two-core cord with a plug at the end;
• pump up to 2.5 kW.

You will have to work with the help welding machine, drill, set of drills and electrodes. Pliers will come in handy. Making an oil heater for

The heating element is inserted into the lower end.

Do-it-yourself apartments begin with preparing the tank. If you took an old cast-iron battery, it must be disassembled into sections and thoroughly cleaned of dirt and rust, and be sure to degrease the inner surface. If you need a heater of increased power, then prepare a welded structure from prepared pipes, where pipes of larger diameter are located horizontally.

Pipes of smaller diameter serve as bridges between the main ones. The coolant will circulate through them. You need to remember that in the lower pipe you need to leave a hole for installing the heating element. If there are several heating elements, they are located on different sides of the tank and should not touch. A hole is also left for the pump. The heating element is securely fastened with bolts. The hole for it can be made with a grinder or autogens.

If a do-it-yourself room heater turns out to be voluminous and natural circulation coolant is not possible in it, they resort to using a pump. It is located at the bottom of the equipment. The pump should not come into contact with the heating element.

After installation of structural elements, the equipment is checked for leaks. If the result is satisfactory, then the coolant is filled. The drain hole is securely sealed with a plug. The equipment is connected to the electrical network in parallel. The circuit is supplemented with a bimetallic thermostat made from a regular iron. Before the first start-up, the installation is grounded. Homemade oil heaters for the home: the video will explain in detail about their design and installation rules:

Advantages of homemade heaters

A do-it-yourself dacha heater and homemade heating devices for the home have one undeniable advantage over their factory-made counterparts. The first ones are made from improvised means, and therefore their cost is low. On the other side, homemade equipment must be done in strict accordance with the rules for the safe operation of electrical and gas appliances. Today you can make your own IR heaters, which are considered the most effective and inexpensive. If you need a device with increased power, you can make it at home oil cooler. There are schemes for making home convectors and portable stoves for tents.

Industrial heaters are expensive and consume quite a lot of electricity. Therefore, among zealous owners, homemade heaters made on their own using improvised materials are in particular demand.

And in this article we will look at several options for homemade heating devices, transforming electrical energy into thermal radiation. Moreover, in addition to a review of the design, we will also offer our readers a description of the process that allows you to make an electric heater with your own hands.

A homemade heating device cannot be complicated: after all, complex “heaters” are assembled from expensive blocks. Therefore, the structural design of a “homemade” product should be as simple as possible.

And a homemade heater cannot be powerful: after all, a productive device must be assembled from durable and expensive construction materials. And the safety of homemade devices with high performance, in most cases, is clearly “lame”.

In addition, homemade heat generators must be assembled from widely available materials. Because exotic “consumables” reduce the likelihood of successfully building a homemade heater to almost zero.

And it would be nice if a homemade heater consumed a minimum of electricity and produced maximum heat. That is, the banal “diversion” of electricity into heat on a refractory circuit (for example, a tungsten helix) is far from the best design solution.

Thus, if we evaluate all the above wishes sensibly, then of all the possible design options, only the diagram will be useful to us homemade generator infrared radiation. After all, such a heater consumes a minimum of energy, which is already good, it does not heat up above 60-70 degrees Celsius, therefore, there is no fear of fire, and it is produced practically from waste.

Homemade heater “Good warmth”

Even an industrial infrared radiation generator is a common graphite plate, placed between two layers of polymer film. After all, graphite is a well-known conductor of electricity with very noticeable resistance. It turns the graphite layer into a generator of thermal waves.

That is, before making a heater with our own hands, we need, firstly, to find powdered graphite, secondly, to come up with a way to apply this material to a polymer film and, thirdly, to connect terminals connected to the “ends” of such a circuit socket.

The source of graphite can be welding graphite electrodes, or rather their “cinders”. Another source of graphite is used trolleybus brushes. In short, any product made of technically pure graphite is suitable as a source.

There can only be one method of applying this material - gluing. It is simply impossible to fix graphite on plastic in any other way. Well, technically it looks like this: graphite is “pounded” to fine dust (flour) and mixed with any heat-resistant adhesive purchased at the nearest construction supermarket.

The terminals are installed on the film by conventional mechanical crimping of the bottom layer before gluing the top layer. Then a wire with a plug is connected to the terminals.

As a result, the assembly of the “Good Heat” type heater is implemented as follows:

• Take a piece of thick polyethylene film or sheet plastic, meter by meter in size.
• Next, you need to find stubs of graphite electrodes or “trolley” brushes, grind them in a mortar and mix the dust with glue.
• The resulting mass must be applied to the surface polymer base with a brush, drawing a snake contour on the plastic, the elements of which do not intersect or overlap each other.
• The next step is installing (crimping) the terminals and gluing the top layer of transparent polyethylene film.

Finally, the entire structure is mounted wooden frame, which is covered with a thin tapestry. And a rheostat and a wire with a plug are connected to the terminals. By adjusting the resistance of the rheostat, you can calibrate the heater power.

Infrared heater based on candle soot

Do you want to assemble an infrared heater, but you don’t have graphite electrodes or trolley “brushes”? Don't despair! You can use an alternative technology for making a heating circuit from candle carbon. There is plenty of this “good” everywhere!

Well, the technology for assembling such a heating circuit is as follows:

• You take two glasses of absolutely the same size (usually a rectangle with dimensions of 2-3 centimeters by 5-7 centimeters).
• Next, the glass is cleaned and degreased, after which it is cooled (in the refrigerator).
• The next step is to prepare the conductive layer, which is formed by “scorching” the glass at the top of the candle flame. Ideally, the entire glass should be covered with a thin layer of soot, consisting of unburned carbon particles - soot, which can replace carbon-containing graphite.
• Next, the glass is wiped with a rag along the contour, outlining a thin “border” and applied, from the short, 3-centimeter edges, copper or aluminum foil, covering half a centimeter of the “smoky” layer. Moreover, the foil should extend beyond the contour of the glass by 1-2 centimeters, forming a tap-terminal.
• Finally, the smoked glass with terminals is covered with a cleaned and degreased plate - the second glass in a pre-prepared pair. And the ends of this sandwich are sealed with epoxy resin.

After this, you need to place the glass with the terminals in a special groove carved into wood or a polymer plate, placing the side with the terminals (they are folded over the glass) on the conductive “brushes”, to which electricity is supplied from the outlet.

Moreover, there may be several such “nests” assembled in a parallel or serial chain. Next, you just need to plug this circuit into an outlet and the soot heated by electricity will begin to emit heat waves no worse than graphite.

From the author: Hello, dear friends! As a rule, central heating include in late autumn, and taking into account natural climatic conditions In many regions, cold weather arrives much earlier. The best solution- this is the installation additional sources heat. Today we will talk about how to make an infrared heater with your own hands.

Main elements and principle of operation

To create an infrared heater at home, you must first study the principle of its operation.

As you know, electromagnetic waves emanate from heat sources, directly heating all the bodies surrounding them, in this case, in an apartment - pieces of furniture and people. In this case, the air in the room does not heat up, and all the heat comes only from already heated objects. Infrared heaters, which include several basic elements, also work according to this principle:

• source of heat radiation. In infrared industrial heaters, the sources are thin metal filaments, which are heated by an electric current passing through them, or various lamps, for example, halogen or incandescent;
• reflector with increased reflectivity, the main function of which is to dissipate heat or create independent heated zones by reflecting infrared rays;
• controller It is also one of the main parts of industrial infrared heaters. It regulates the heating degree of the emitter. It may not be present in homemade heaters, but its installation is recommended for setting a suitable temperature range and for automatically heating the device when the temperature drops below normal limits, as well as for cooling at elevated temperatures.

Advice: To check the reflex effect, it is recommended to use food foil, which must be held over your hand for some time. Heat should emanate from the foil, which is reflected and directed towards your hand.

The operating principle of ceiling infrared heaters is the same as that of other devices of this type. The only difference is the installation method, which determines the most comfortable heated zones.

Source: electricdoma.ru

This diagram shows the main advantage of infrared coolants: the heat that warms physical bodies and is absorbed by them remains inside. That's why they are warmer than the ceiling. When providing heat using the convective method, the floors always remain cold, since the material itself is not heated. Heated air rises, displacing cold air down.

Making your own inexpensive heater

The basis of the emitter is usually lamps or filaments that are heated by electric current. But there is a more productive option - using . The battery emits radiation that spreads in all directions.

For best results, use foil after smoothing its surface for higher reflection. Stick it on the walls behind radiators and radiators. The heat supposedly directed at the wall will be reflected in the opposite direction, heating only the room. This simple trick increases heat output by 20%.

Advice: It is worth noting that an alternative to foil can be heat-insulating reflective screens made of penofol, covered with foil on one or both sides.

Using devices available in the home

If you still have an old Soviet reflector, you can safely use it to make an infrared heater. In addition to it, you will need:

• steel rod;
• nichrome thread;
• dielectric made of refractory material (for example, a ceramic plate)

To make a heater with your own hands, you must follow the instructions.

1. Remove dirt from the surface of the reflector.
2. Measure the length of the spiral wrapping around the reflector cone.
3. Check the cord, coil activation terminals and plug for damage.
4. Cut the steel rod to a length equal to the length of the spiral.
5. Wind a nichrome thread onto the rod, marking 5 turns for every centimeter.
6. Slowly remove the rod from the wound thread.
7. Place the spiral on a dielectric (for example, a plate) so that the turns do not touch.
8. Connect the ends of the spiral to an electrical source.
9. The heated spiral is compactly placed in the grooves of the reflex cone.
10. Connect the contacts to the spiral ends.

As a result, you will notice that the nichrome thread heats up better than the spiral installed in the device before making changes. An effective emitter that reflects energy from the reflective walls and directs it to bodies that absorb heat is ready.

Using foil and glass

To do this you will need:

• paraffin candle;
• device for installing a candle;
• EDP ​​glue (Boxidka);
• aluminum foil;
• two glasses of the same size;
• sealed material;
• wire with a tip in the form of a plug;
• cotton napkin;
• cotton swabs.

Manufacturing instructions.

1. Remove dirt, paint and dust from the glass surface.
2. Light the candle and place it in the tray.
3. Holding the glasses in your hand, pass them over the flame so that they smoke evenly. To do this, it is recommended to cool them a little in advance. The resulting dark soot will become a conductive element.
4. Draw straight lines around the perimeter of each glass using cotton swabs. The result should be a frame of clean strips 0.5 centimeters thick.
5. Measure the width of the dark soot rectangles.
6. Cut out two similar rectangles from foil, which will serve as electrode strips.
7. Place the first glass so that the smoked side is on top.
8. Apply glue to its surface and distribute the edges of the foil so that they extend slightly beyond the glass.
9. Place the second glass on top with the smoked side inward so that it fits tightly to the adhesive surface and press carefully to secure the effect.
10. Apply a little sealant to the glass joints.
11. Check the design for power level. Not exceeding 100 W per sq.m. The heater can be safely connected to the electrical network using a plug with a wire.
12. To connect to the network, take a block of wood with two metal plates, which are reinforced at both ends. A 12 volt plug must be soldered to one of them. Place the block on the glass so that the foil extending beyond the edges of the glass is pressed tightly against the metal contacts. Your efficient and powerful electric heater is ready.

Advice: To correctly calculate the power of a device, you need to use a multimeter to measure the resistance level of the conductive layer electric current. Considering the dependence of the current on the load, it is better to use stable parameters - constant voltage at 220 V and formulaN= U* U/ R, WhereN– the required power indicator,U - electrical voltage AndR- resistance. For example, with a resistance of 24 Ohms according to the formulaN=220*220/24 turns out to be 2016 W. This power is enough to normally heat a room with an area of ​​approximately 20 square meters. m.

When obtaining a higher indicator, it is necessary to increase the resistance, and at low power, increase it.

What to do if the power of the heater made does not meet the required parameters? It is necessary to calculate this indicator, taking into account the area of ​​the room (for example, 15 meters) at the rate of 100 W per square meter. m. It turns out 15*100=1500 W.

With a constant resistance of 220V, derive the required indicator using the same formula: R=220*220/1500=32 Om. Considering that you previously got 24 ohms, the resistance should be increased. This means that it is necessary to reduce the width of the sooty strip on the glass and calculate it using the formula R=I*p/S, where R is the resistance, I is the length of the current-conducting layer (constant value), p is the resistivity (constant value), S - square cross section layer (directly depends on the width, a wide layer means a smaller area, a narrow layer means a larger area).

Thus, to calculate the required resistance value, it is necessary to select the desired width of the smoked strip, but for this you will have to disassemble the glass device.

Manufacturing from laminated plastic

To make your own infrared heater, you will need:

• 2 pieces of laminated paper, each 1 square meter;
• box glue;
• copper plates;
• graphite powder;
• plug and cord;
• wood.

First you need to mix graphite with glue until a thick mass is formed with high degree resistance. Then apply a mixture of graphite and bauxide onto the plastic using zigzag strokes, placing the rough side on the table. Prepare the second plastic in the same way, and then glue the two sheets together, pressing them tightly together. On the plates on opposite sides you need to fix the copper elements with glue.

A frame is made from wood into which the device must be inserted, which then must be thoroughly dried. Next, you need to measure the resistance and calculate the power in the same way as in the previous version, except that here the resistance depends on the amount of graphite powder in the glue - the more of it, the higher the resistance, and vice versa. After you have reached the required power, you need to connect the structure to the network, after connecting it to the plug.

Making from infrared film

One of the most modern and effective materials for a heater is infrared film, usually three-layer.