Fill a timber house with foam. Reliable sealing of seams between logs is a guarantee of living comfort. Types of beam connections
Insulation wooden house from time immemorial it was done using caulk. It's heavy and long work which requires accuracy and certain skills. Today in the century high technology invented new methods of insulation that are replacing the ancient craft. Disputes about the best way to close the gaps between beams or logs are ongoing. Many adherents of progress use foam instead of caulking to seal crown joints; conservatives prefer traditional way thermal insulation using caulking. Let's figure out what material is best to insulate a house and why.
Before answering the question: which is better, it is necessary to provide a list of requirements for insulating material for a wooden house:
- Vapor permeability, i.e. the material must freely pass through itself water vapor that forms in a warm house. If the material does not have this property, moisture is retained in the insulation without coming out. As a result, the insulator gets wet, the wood becomes damp and begins to rot.
- Moisture resistance. This characteristic indicates that the insulation does not accumulate moisture.
- Resistance to microorganisms and fungi.
- Breathability. The material must allow air to pass through well.
The log house is only caulked natural materials: moss, jute, tow, flax.
Natural insulation:
- do not violate the environmental friendliness of a wooden house;
- do not interfere with the air exchange of wood;
- They retain heat well in the house because they have low thermal conductivity.
Log cabin, caulked in the classic way, looks very expressive, the house retains the flavor of a traditional Russian hut. Additionally, the intervention seams are decorated with jute tape or cord, and a rope or decorative cord is laid between the logs. It not only decorates appearance home, but also improves its thermal insulation.
Despite the many positive aspects, caulk also has some disadvantages:
Firstly, it is a long and tedious job that requires a lot of effort and patience. It is very important to have experience and work skills. maybe a non-specialist. However, there are many nuances. If the seams and joints are caulked incorrectly, the house may become distorted, the insulation may be pulled apart by birds, or it will be knocked out during shrinkage. Every problem has its own solution, which only professionals know.
Secondly, caulking is done several times. This work cannot be done once and for all. The primary one is performed during the construction phase or immediately after its completion. The log house is caulked the second time after the main shrinkage has passed, the work is done both outside and inside. If not produced exterior decoration, then they do the third caulking 3-5 years after the construction of the house. In some cases it is necessary to perform intermediate caulking.
You need to take the choice of the material itself very seriously. Typically, loose insulation (moss, tow) is used at the construction stage. To re-caulk, take a more durable material, which should fit tightly into the grooves, without the formation of cracks. Jute and linen wool are great here.
It should also be taken into account that only moss, and to a lesser extent tow, has good antibacterial properties. The remaining insulation materials must be treated with special compounds. On the other hand, tow tends to accumulate moisture, so it is advisable to use it to caulk areas that are least exposed to the influence of natural precipitation. Birds love to take away natural insulation materials, so you will also have to take care of protecting the material.
Since the caulking process is very labor-intensive, many are trying to find other easier ways to seal the seams between the beams. One option is to foam the joints with polyurethane foam. Let's figure out whether this can be done and how effective this method is.
The material has excellent performance characteristics:
- high heat and sound insulating properties;
- moisture resistance;
- non-flammability;
- ability to densely fill voids and cracks.
Besides, big advantage polyurethane foam is simple and quick installation and inexpensive price. For this work it is not necessary to hire installers; it can easily be done independently. It is these indicators that, first of all, those who have made their choice in favor of this insulation are guided by.
However, foam cannot provide a home with reliable and high-quality thermal insulation because:
- does not have sufficient elasticity, which leads to the formation of cracks and crevices when the timber moves during shrinkage;
- when heated strongly, it releases harmful toxins;
- cracks and collapses under the influence of UV rays;
- wood is a breathable material, foam does not allow air to pass through, it simply clogs the pores in the wood and deprives it of natural air exchange;
- Moisture can accumulate at the junction of the foam and the timber, which leads to rotting of the wood.
As you can see, the list of shortcomings is quite wide, which limits the scope of its application.
Foam can only be used when the façade is intended to be covered decorative material. Under these conditions, ultraviolet radiation will not have a detrimental effect on the material. But you need to take into account that the work should be carried out before finishing, and also that with this method of sealing joints, the environmental friendliness of the wooden house will be compromised.
With great reservations, it is possible to foam cracks and roof joints in wooden houses only if this option is considered as a temporary measure.
There was an opinion that polyurethane foam destroys wood.
Dmitry BelkinPolyurethane foam
QuestionGood afternoon.
I live in Tomsk, and recently German restorers of wooden architecture came to visit us. When checking several houses restored by our specialists, they found a lot of errors. And, in particular, when installing plastic windows in wooden houses, polyurethane foam was used for installation and thermal insulation. Their verdict is that a wooden wall (wood) with a given combination of materials will collapse quite quickly. Since I myself am planning to install plastic windows in wooden house from timber in the same way, I would like to know your opinion on this issue. And if they are right, how can this be prevented or replaced. Thanks in advance for your answer.
Best regards, Alexander
The question is serious. I thought for a long time before answering. In addition, I myself installed in my wooden house plastic windows and put them on foam too.
You shouldn't have let these Germans go. They should have explained this to you. I honestly don’t know of a more neutral material than polyurethane. As far as I understand, all polyurethane foam is polyurethane. The only thing that can be assumed is that the foam somehow accumulates moisture, which does not dry out and causes accelerated rotting of the wood, but even here I very much doubt it, since the foam dries well due to its porous structure.
And one last thing. One of my neighbors in the village picked up a few years ago somewhere at a construction site of old wooden doors with boxes, apparently someone did some repairs and replaced them. These doors were installed on foam and are still lying around in his barn. So I specifically went to him and looked at what happened to these boxes under the foam. NOTHING! Complete order.
Thus, if your house rots in a hundred years, not a single expert will tell you why it happened. From foam, or from old age. Personally, I'm not going to give up foam. Maybe you just fed your Germans poorly, and they decided to take revenge on you?
I hope that among the readers of this site there will be foam experts who will express their strong opinions!
For many years, builders have been experimenting in search of a technologically advanced way to connect logs in a log house with a minimum of cracks. The log should sit “saddle” on a log perpendicular to the wall. To do this, it is necessary to build walls with a shift of half the diameter of the log. Therefore, a log (from a log sawn lengthwise in half) is placed at the base, which is secured to the foundation with anchors. The bench is separated from the subfloor by two layers of dense, closed-cell polyethylene foam, each 6 mm thick. Polyethylene foam serves as both wind protection and waterproofing.
Use of polyurethane foam in construction and repair
Among the considerable number of tools in demand in everyday life for almost every homeowner, there is an inexpensive and simple instrument– gun for polyurethane foam.
Is it possible to do without it?
In principle, yes. The reader probably knows that there are cans of polyurethane foam for household use. In this case, the use of polyurethane foam is possible without the use of mounting gun. But my personal experience working with such cylinders (installation seam in the photo on the left), as well as subsequent experience in performing work with a mounting gun (installation seam in the photo on the right) gave me the following thoughts:
1. Using polyurethane foam without a gun, even when performing work infrequently but quite regularly, is “more expensive” in terms of money, quality and time.
For example, when performing the work shown in the photo on the left, I used three household cylinders (door frame width 300 mm). At the same time, it is very difficult to ensure uniformity of the assembly seam and subsequent quality. The photo on the right shows the construction seam obtained when a foam gun was used. The assembly seam turned out to be of better quality; one cylinder was enough to complete the job.
2. Taking into account the price ratio (currently) for mounting guns and polyurethane foam, the question from the point of view of cost savings is also in favor of using a mounting gun, since the gun will pay for itself after using three or four cylinders of mounting foam.
So, the only thing left to do is to choose and buy a mounting gun from the countless variety that are on the shelves, and at the same time not make a mistake with the purchase. But at first it's very brief information for those who have not used this tool.
Note: this certificate is given for the correct perception of the text material in the article. Basic structural elements mounting gun (and their purpose) are shown in the figure below.
foam gun photo
Considering that the pistol usually comes with instructions, the information presented above will be sufficient to read and understand the article.
Cover or “panel”?
Often, purchasing a plot with log house, the new owners are in a hurry to cover it with bricks. This strengthens the structure and makes it more solid. However, many people often make the same mistake. Without calculating that the weight from stone walls is not intended for the foundation of a wooden structure (which may not exist underneath them at all!), you risk experiencing significant shrinkage in the foreseeable future, which may result in cracks in the walls of the house. This also happens because it “breathes,” which means its walls can “walk” due to temperature changes in different seasons of the year. This is especially noticeable where the transition from season to season is very sharp. Subsequently, for the same reasons described above, it will be unsafe to try to build on a brick second floor. 
In order to avoid such problems, consult with specialists and carry out all reconnaissance activities before restructuring. By the way, cosmetic cladding of a house can be done without resorting to brick, but using modern panel materials. Plastic exterior panels are much lighter than brick, look nice, and protect your home well from rain and snow. In addition, covering a house with panels is incomparably cheaper and faster than with bricks. The main thing is to lay it between the house and the sheets of panels air cushion: panels are attached to the sheathing, which is made on the outside wooden wall. By the way, in the case of a brick lining of a wooden house, an air gap is needed, which, meanwhile, is done differently.
Insulation of a wooden house
The opportunity to buy on credit has significantly expanded the number of owners wooden houses. A wooden house is warm, cozy, beautiful, but besides good properties, the tree is susceptible to drying out, pest damage, and cracking. Therefore, over time it is necessary to carry out insulation work.
You need to start insulation with a thorough external inspection. It is necessary to identify all the cracks and holes from which cold air comes in, and then seal them. Particular attention should be paid to the corners - this is where damage is most likely to occur. 
You can use polyurethane foam or polyurethane sealants if you have a house made of laminated veneer lumber - this material has passed the necessary heat treatment, not subject to drying out. If this is a log house, then such a wooden house is constantly in “movement”. Therefore, literally in six months the foam will collapse and the work will have to be done again.
The most reliable and proven method for eliminating cracks in a wooden house is caulking. Our grandfathers used this method. For caulking, it is best to use tow and finish with hemp rope.
Proponents of environmental solutions can use dry swamp moss – excellent material for sealing cracks and crevices. The only problem will be to assemble required quantity moss if the amount of work is large. For houses made of logs, it is necessary to use inter-crown insulation, which is felt, linen or jute tow. For a house made of timber, the thickness of the insulation can be 10-15 mm, and for a house made of timber it should be up to 25 mm.
The next step will be to insulate the ceiling. It is to the ceiling that the air heated by the stove or radiators rushes. There it cools and falls along the walls to the floor. Good decision The ceiling is insulated using polystyrene foam. You can also use mineral wool.
When choosing a material, it should be taken into account that in addition to insulation, the material will block the passage of moisture through the ceiling, so the use of foil material is not recommended - this will lead to the formation of condensation on the ceiling and disrupt the natural atmosphere inside the house, which can lead to fungi. Any waterproofing should be placed under the thermal insulation layer, and not vice versa.
When insulating walls special attention need to look at the windows. It blows especially often from junctions window frame with a wall. It is recommended to caulk the outside or use polymer sealants. If the windows are wooden, then periodic painting not only refreshes the appearance, but also gives additional tightness to the window.
Better to use double-glazed windows. Glass must be placed in a frame, on silicone sealant. This will guarantee that cold air will not blow from the window in winter. Great solution– plastic windows. This is the only way to achieve complete tightness.
If serious insulation of the house is required, then they are used insulation materials (mineral wool, slabs of basalt fiber, etc.), decorated on top with finishing materials.
Sometimes a log house is covered with bricks, if the foundation allows. But in this case, all the beauty of a wooden house is lost. Best option– construction of a glass veranda. This will create a buffer zone of air while maintaining natural beauty tree.
Insulating your home should not be put off until the winter. It's better to carry out all the necessary renovation work in the summer, and in the cold season just enjoy the coziness and comfort of your home.
Sealing and insulation of the crowns of a wooden house.
Despite large number modern building materials, many prefer to use for individual construction tree. Wooden houses undoubtedly have their advantages: reasonable price, environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance. But there are also disadvantages. Wood becomes very deformed when exposed to moisture, dries out and cracks. Constant movements of the foundation, which occur at any time of the year, also lead to an increase in the size of the seams between the crowns of a wooden house. Ultimately, the wooden structures of the house lose their tightness and begin to let cold air and moisture inside. The problem can only be solved with the help of a professional wood sealant. Some people mistakenly believe that foam, putty, or any sealant can be used to seal wooden structures. In fact, selecting a sealant for wood is a rather serious task.
Wood sealant must have high elasticity. Polyurethane foam does not have this property; therefore, with subsequent deformation of wooden structures, they will not be able to provide sufficient tightness.
Silicone, polyurethane, thiokol, butyl rubber sealants and mastics do not have good adhesion to wood. They do not have the required degree of deformability and, moreover, do not match the color of wood well. Additionally, many of these sealants cannot be used indoors.
Accordingly, the ideal sealant for wood is an acrylic sealant with high degree deformability. Of the sealants presented in our company’s assortment, the one that is best suited for this job is acrylic sealants for wood Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood. These sealants have high deformability and excellent adhesion to wood. If you need to repair cracks in wooden structures at home, or fill the joints between the wall of a wooden house and window block, door frame and so on, then our wood sealant is the ideal solution.
Now let's move on to the issue of insulation and sealing of the crown joints of a wooden house from the outside. Let us immediately note that it is better to carry out this work after the initial shrinkage of the house, that is, on next year, after laying the walls of the house. Before using wood sealant, you need to fill the gaps between the logs with insulation. For these purposes, a Vilaterm or Izodom tourniquet of the required cross-section and diameter is best suited. It performs several important functions at once. 
First, it is a filler that reduces the consumption of wood sealant.
Secondly, the tourniquet improves the thermal insulation of the inter-crown seam.
Thirdly, a bundle made of foam material acts as an anti-adhesive gasket, which ensures that the wood sealant adheres to only two points - on the edges of adjacent logs.
Sealants Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood do not stick to the sealing gasket, because has adhesion only to wood. Consequently, if you fill the seam between the crowns with a Vilaterm (Izodom) type harness, then the layer of sealant will be, as it were, stretched over the sealing gasket and secured along the edges to the logs. Why is this needed? Because without such insulation, wood sealant penetrates into the gap and sticks to the inner surface of the logs. This effect is called: three-point adhesion. If the logs become deformed, then the sealant that has filled the entire internal space of the seam will simply come off one of the logs and all your work will be useless.
It should also be noted that before starting work, the seams should be cleaned of dust, varnish, old paint, it is also better to lightly sand them. It is better to do the work at moderate warm temperature air (about +20оС). In very hot weather, the surface should be slightly moistened. To ensure that the seam is even, use construction tape.
Let's sum it up! The main tasks that our technology for sealing a wooden house solves:
Elimination of seam leaks.
Protection from negative destruction of harmful insects.
Durability. Serves for 20 years.
Elimination of re-caulking.
Preventing birds from pulling away the insulation.
Beauty and aesthetics.
Reduces heat loss.
Keeps your home environmentally friendly.
Thus, with one shot you kill 8 birds with one stone. A tube of sealant costs 310 rubles 900 grams, it is enough for about 15 m.p.
Features in the construction of wooden houses
Requires a different approach than stone. There should be practically no rigid fastenings in it so that all elements wooden log house had the opportunity to shift relative to each other during the process of shrinkage or swelling of the log. When designing a wooden house, you need to take into account the diameter and length of the log that will be used. A rounded log extends no more than 6 m, which imposes some restrictions on the layout. If you need a room large sizes, then you have to make a false joint of the log, the so-called cross, which extends 20 cm from the wall. But, in principle, this method allows you to make quite large rooms. Compensation gaps in a wooden house are also taken into account at the design stage. When designing, it is necessary to adhere to the modules characteristic of wooden housing construction - 1.1 m and 1.2 m (module industrial buildings– 6 m).
Based on the module, all buildings are calculated. Minimum thickness external walls in a wooden house for our climatic conditions- 18 cm, but it is better to make 20 or 24 cm, depending on the breed and. The calculation of loads in the project must be carried out with the utmost care, otherwise the joists will play and the floor will creak. Shrinkage of logs in a wooden house occurs not only in the transverse, but also in the longitudinal direction. Transverse shrinkage is compensated by shrinkage of the log house, but in the process of longitudinal shrinkage, the ends of the logs at the places where they join diverge, and cracks form between them over time. Therefore, such places in a wooden house must be designed in place of the cuts so that they are covered with a thermal lock. Dowels and a tongue-and-groove connection do not solve the problem, because during the shrinkage process gaps are formed, which, after assembling the log house, you can no longer get close to in order to further seal them. Not to mention how they spoil the facade of a wooden house visible joints logs
Layout: bigger is better than smaller. A wooden house on paper and on the site does not always look the same. You may like a wooden house in a catalog of projects, but when it is built, the customer says that this is not what he wanted. For example, a 9 m2 kitchen in the project seems quite spacious. And when the house is built, it turns out that there is no place to turn around - such a kitchen is little larger than those that exist; in city apartments it is recommended to make kitchens of 15-20 m2. It is also advisable to provide three bedrooms in a wooden house - two for the owners and one guest. The optimal area of a wooden house for a family of four is 150 m2; it makes no sense to do less. Others, starting to build a wooden house, easily take on the role of the demiurge of their native monastery and begin to create. In 90% of cases, some changes are made to the project during construction.
At the same time, redesigning a project must be done wisely. Sometimes doing it the way the client wants is dangerous for the structure of a wooden house or directly contradicts Building codes and rules. If, despite admonitions, the future homeowner insists on his own, the construction company, as a rule, makes concessions, but at the same time declines responsibility for possible negative consequences and takes a receipt from the client. Only a competent architect will help you avoid design mistakes. Of course, his services are not cheap, but main problem not even in this, but in finding one. Especially for a wooden house.
Many companies can only sketch a sketch of a house based on the wishes of the customer. Then it is transferred to a specialized design company - it makes all the calculations and develops a detailed design according to which a wooden house can be built. Less capricious in this regard (houses using Canadian technology). Even if mistakes were made during their design (or there was simply a desire to change something), they can be corrected during construction: the wall can be unscrewed, moved to another location and reassembled.
Two words about the foundation The most common mistake when laying the foundation of a wooden house is that its design does not coincide with the design of the log house according to the project. In general, a wooden house is not very fancy in terms of foundations, since it is almost 2 times lighter than a brick one. Now many people are building a wooden house not even on strip foundation, and on a columnar one - along the perimeter of the future building (at the main points where the load occurs), pipes are dug into the ground and concreted and a house is placed on them. This can significantly reduce the cost of construction. Shrinkage, shrinkage, shrinkage To provide for shrinkage is the most important duty and the first sign of a competent architect.
It's no secret that shrinkage in a wooden house natural humidity happens for two reasons. The first is drying of the logs (shrinkage 5-8% depending on the initial humidity). For example, a log with a diameter of 240 mm may lose 10-20 mm by the end of shrinkage. The second is the collapse of logs under the weight of the load and the opening of cracks (up to 2%). Thus, the total shrinkage amount is 6-10%, sometimes up to 15%. Type of raw materials Shrinkage Raw up to 7% (i.e. for every meter - 7 cm of shrinkage) Glued laminated timber 1% Visible shrinkage in a wooden house occurs during the first two years. Each floor will shrink by 10-20 cm. For example, if you built walls 3 m high, then in a year they will become 2.8 m.
And the shrinkage, invisible to the eye, will continue for another 10 years, but it will be quite insignificant. Therefore, when constructing openings in a wooden house for windows and doors, it is necessary to provide a margin, otherwise, when the house shrinks, the door or window will simply be “crushed”, the frame may warp, even to the point that the glass will break. If in the corners of a wooden house the logs are joined “into a cup”, then at the notches of the cups it is also necessary to allow for shrinkage. If this is not done, then when the logs dry out, they will “hang” and gaps will form between them. 
By the way, SNiPs allow the use of wood with a moisture content of no more than 25%, while in practice wooden houses are often built from raw logs with a moisture content of 30-40%. In wooden houses made from solid wood, it is necessary to create a seat, a gap, in places where windows and doorways- from 6 to 10 cm. The building sits on these 6-10 cm. For laminated veneer lumber, these gaps are 3-4 cm. Glued laminated timber shrinks during the process of gradual loading; by the time the wooden house is finally installed, it is completely shrinked.
Wooden houses are alive, whether from fresh sawn timber or from laminated veneer lumber. A solid wood house, having finally dried and settled after 3 years, having a humidity of 18%, constantly gives and takes away moisture from 3 to 5% depending on the climatic zone you are as protected by the walls. " Interior decoration it cannot be done in a wooden house in damp weather (especially in winter and autumn). The tree will definitely take 3-4% moisture from environment, and when they turn it on in a wooden house, cracks will appear.
In addition, a wooden house must stand: a box with a roof (but without windows so that it can be ventilated) must stand for six months to a year, then with windows for another six months. In total, you can move in only after 2 years." Tricks on the terrace Throughout the entire period of shrinkage, a wooden house needs to be "tightened." It's good if the builders made consoles and expansion joints - then once a year the owner himself can take the key and tighten it or call specialists from the company that built the wooden house, workers from hired teams usually do not make these compensators, which leads to negative consequences. Vertical structures (pillars, columns) are another vulnerable point in a wooden house during shrinkage. A terrace is often built in a wooden house, supported, of course, by pillars.
Special anchor bolts with a power reserve of up to 10 cm must be drilled into these pillars, which must be tightened during the shrinkage process in a wooden house. Without this, there is a high probability that the roof will simply slide to the side. The same goes for columns inside a wooden house. If you install pillars without compensators, it will turn out that one half of the wooden house has collapsed, and the second is blocked by the pillar. And the wooden house will become skewed. The crews that built it are usually out of range by this time.
This is usually followed by a call to specialists from construction company(and they are reluctant to respond, since they have enough clients of their own who need to be “twisted” in time). As a result, due to the negligence of unscrupulous workers, a prejudice arises that a wooden house is bad. Do no harm... with metal In Rus' they have always built only wood with wood. If needed vertical elements for fastening logs, they used so-called dowels - thick wooden nails. To date, nothing better has been invented than them. If a wooden house is assembled by non-professionals, they can knock down the logs with iron reinforcement. The moisture contained in the air and in the log house is quite enough for the metal to begin to rust (especially since the humidity at the bottom of the wall is greater than at the top).
In turn, this will cause rotting of the wood, especially the first 2-3 crowns. Therefore, it is better to drill the first crown of a wooden frame to the foundation with a stainless thread, and then use dowels. Or make the first 2-3 crowns from larch - it is so resistant to moisture that it is even used in shipbuilding. True, it is not cheap: there is very little of it in Ukraine and it is mainly imported from Russia. fasten wooden beam it is possible to connect to the foundation using galvanized ferrous metal. In wood, which shrinks less, you can use metal ties. They cannot be used in a wooden house made of rounded logs; they can only be added as separate elements. It is also not recommended to connect logs in a wooden house on one cut along the entire height of the wall in more than three crowns. In this place, the floors may sag over time.
In a proper log house, all the logs should be connected in a checkerboard pattern, intertwined, like a vine in a wicker basket. Only in this case will a wooden house begin to shrink evenly and be as strong and durable as possible. Nagel - it is necessary! The structure of a wooden frame is held in place by oak dowels, a hole is drilled in the log for them, and the dowels are driven into 3 logs. This makes it possible for the wood not to wander. Some people mess around and hammer in nails; when drying, it turns out that the logs “hang” like a kebab on a skewer. Connecting logs using dowels is a labor-intensive process, so workers sometimes don’t insert them at all. Improper fastening of the dowels can also cause the wall to sag (bend outward). And no polyurethane foam!
Wood – 100% natural material. The insulation materials placed between the logs in the log house should be the same. This could be flax, tow, moss (although it is more common in Russia, but is practically not used in Ukraine). As a last resort - padding polyester: it is a neutral material. But, under no circumstances should you blow foam between the logs - who needs an environmentally friendly wooden house with added chemicals?
Window cases In any wooden house, gaps are needed between load-bearing structures and enclosing structures. For example, walls, windows, doors cannot fit closely, otherwise they will simply be torn. If a wooden house is being built from solid wood, as soon as a window or doorway is cut down, it is necessary to make guides in it. A groove is made at the vertical end, 35 mm wide, into which guides are inserted - metal pipe. The window or door frame. They compensate for possible provocations of the log.
In practice, it turns out that cutting a window in a wooden house is a task that not everyone can do. When installing corner connections make many mistakes if grooves and locks are cut on the spot. Therefore, it is better that they are made at the factory. Windows are installed in a wooden house often using technology designed for brick houses: put it on a rigid mount, blow it with foam, cover it with a platband - and everything is in order.
This is a grave mistake, even if the windows are metal-plastic. "Application polyethylene film on top of insulation in the windows of a wooden house is unacceptable, since it does not allow air to penetrate. Instead, mineral insulation should be inserted into the gap between the frame and the window opening and then closed special paper, and then the platband is installed. Today few people use it, but it must be demanded. And under no circumstances should you use polyurethane foam.
30.09.2008, 13:37
For the second floor we plan everything with timber.
External walls and partitions 100*150.
On the outside there is still a 100mm slab and a wet façade.
How load-bearing structure Is 150 enough?
It’s just not easy to pull 150*150 up.
Well, and most importantly...
Instead of moss or tow - polyurethane foam.
Those. The beams are laid on top of each other, stitched with 150 nails, between the beams there is a 100 mm long spacer, 1 cm thick, approximately every two meters.
After laying 3-4 pieces of timber, the resulting cracks are simply foamed with foam. after it expands, the gasket is knocked out - it foams or simply foams.
The beam will not rise - checked, the foam will fall out of the grooves, cut off with a simple knife.
In fact, I made a bathhouse and hesitated to break through and still the birds are dragging the dogs.
And again, there will be no moisture there on the second floor. There will be only 2.2 m of timber, then a slanting roof and a half-attic ceiling. and breaking through twice at the level of the second floor is simply not realistic - you’ll be tortured to install the scaffolding...
And so the consumption of foam - if it’s a professional tool - then it goes away a little.
I made floors - foamed the gaps between the boards for 40 m2 (8*5) - one cylinder was used.
Who will say what? Bullshit or does it make sense.
Inside it is planned to cover the entire second floor with clapboards, and outside there will be a wet facade on mineral slabs.
The first floor has brick walls, floor slabs and also a wet facade, but made of foam plastic.
30.09.2008, 13:47
30.09.2008, 15:35
I just installed wooden windows in my house 4 years ago - I don’t seem to see any problems now.
30.09.2008, 17:25
I saw a review somewhere... it’s like it’s cool, but after a while serious problems appear... I don’t remember exactly.
It was, it was... I also don’t remember where... Of the main troubles there, in my opinion, they wrote that sooner or later (in 5-10 years) the foam from the seams may simply crumble. Then there was something about the strength of the wall. Then harmful discharge from the frozen foam on the cuts...
Andrey teacher
30.09.2008, 18:03
30.09.2008, 19:09
I’m thinking differently - was such a powerful caulk needed? Is there insulation from the outer walls + wet facade?
01.10.2008, 02:01
I’m thinking differently - was such a powerful caulk needed? Is there insulation from the outer walls + wet façade? own experience I'll say it's not needed. Even harmful. Because the wind protection on top of the insulation itself creates sufficient protection from blowing through the wall, and the leaks between the beams help maintain moderate air exchange between the room and the atmosphere with minimal heat losses for this component of the overall ventilation. And this part is pretty decent. In any case, with completely sealed windows, closed stove valves and closed ventilation risers in the kitchen, no stuffiness is felt in the house in winter. A wall made of timber on a liner of flax, insulation, wind protection and cladding on the outside with a blockhouse.
I also came across statements on the Internet that “If the wall “breathes”, like a wall made of timber or logs 15 - 20 cm thick, then heat returns. This allows you to reduce heat losses by 30%, so the value of the wall’s thermal resistance obtained in the calculation should be multiplied by 1.3 (or reduce heat loss accordingly)." See [Only registered users can see links]
01.10.2008, 06:34
And so the consumption of foam - if it’s a professional tool - then it goes away a little.
According to my calculations, if the perimeter is say 8x8, the volume of cavities to be sealed will be 1m3 and it will take about 20 cylinders. 3500 rub. But that's not the main thing.
It is VERY good to foam a seam 15 cm deep and 1 cm thick! difficult. And because of the curvature of the beam, your seam will not be 1 cm everywhere, but somewhere around half a cm, somewhere around 3 cm. You’ll have a hard time with the spacers. And you can’t knock them out. The foam will be crushed over time (not immediately, but over 10 years) and the shrinkage at the seams alone will be 10 cm + the shrinkage of the timber itself.
IMHO the idea is not good.
Laborant 13-03-2014 16:40
Is this really kosher?
I see they are building everything, and not only for sale, but also for themselves, obviously.
Maybe I've always been wrong?
John892 13-03-2014 16:57
The guys who came up with polyurethane foam, at a lecture at the institute where I studied, talked about the 8 years that the foam lasts, then it needs to be cleaned and re-foamed. If you have a little patience, it’s better to caulk it.
Lesnik 61 13-03-2014 17:07
quote: at the institute where I studied, they talked about the 8 years that foam lives,
Something tells me that in 8 years, you will have to choose with an axe, what will settle under the foam, will it help, this is the second question.
Comrade Beria 13-03-2014 17:24
They say that foam lasts longer, but it must be protected from ultraviolet radiation and moisture. Yes, and you need to foam on a cleaned and moistened surface.
goga-313 13-03-2014 18:56
Here I am, foaming. The house is playing, and because... If the foam is hard, cracks will appear. IMHO.
But I'm still happy. It was impossible to caulk the log house, it was old
and initially poorly cut down (on one linear meter the gaps were from 3-4 cm to 0 cm)
And he was already seated.
goga-313 13-03-2014 18:58
Winston7 13-03-2014 19:13
foam is destroyed by ultraviolet light. and very quickly at that. 2-3 months and rubbish.
and it seemed like the norm, I was withdrawing cash from the early 2000s, the foam was alive.
Laborant 13-03-2014 19:14
The house is playing, and because... If the foam is hard, cracks will appear.
What if you build from scratch? What's stopping you from doing it right? To live by ourselves.
KM 13-03-2014 22:32
quote: Originally posted by goga-313:
Yes, I heard that there is a special elastic foam, but it is expensive and I have not seen it.
There is a special composition, but it is not just expensive, but insanely expensive. Yes, and they promote it in such a way that analogies immediately arise with all sorts of superfoods for weight loss.
Andrey60 14-03-2014 01:23
There is an interventional sealant, but I personally don’t want it. But I’ll throw this in: what’s better for caulking, jute or flax?
Mak Dak 14-03-2014 11:07
Andrey60 14-03-2014 13:27
It turns out that there is no difference, except for the color. And if you close it with a cord, then nothing at all. Thank you.
John892 14-03-2014 15:53
quote: Originally posted by Mak Dak:
brick and cement rule, much more reliable and durable. And the miser pays twice
Throw in accepted. I would never build my house out of brick because I am stingy.
Rusich 14-03-2014 20:49
foam? Isothiocyanate??
The enemy's house.
Mower_man 14-03-2014 22:01
Isothiocyanate
Rusich 14-03-2014 22:23
Wow, bugger.
There are no synthetics in my house.
Gasar 15-03-2014 09:29
quote: There are no synthetics in my house.
If the house is not in the taiga wilderness, your health will not notice this.
Yes, it is also important not to move more than 10 km from home from birth to death.
quote: But I’ll throw this in: what’s better for caulking, jute or flax?
IMHO, it doesn't matter.
Mower_man 15-03-2014 10:11
quote: Originally posted by Rusich:
Wow, bugger.
There are no synthetics in my house.
***cyanates - sounds scary, but there is one problem with it, it is completely consumed during the polymerization reaction...)))
Laborant 15-03-2014 14:45
quote: Originally posted by Andrey60:
But I’ll throw this in: what’s better for caulking, jute or flax?
I remembered! Moss!
Lesnik 61 15-03-2014 14:56
I still need to get it, it’s easier for me, I built a bathhouse, drove 300 meters, kicked as much as necessary and moved on, not everyone is so lucky. And not all moss suits.
Andrey60 15-03-2014 15:45
The bathhouse was built on moss, which does not exclude caulking at all.
Lesnik 61 15-03-2014 16:12
quote: which does not exclude caulking at all.
When the birds were tearing out the moss, I pierced it with an ordinary hemp rope.
Steelyard 15-03-2014 21:29
so right away during assembly, some kind of mineral wool was laid between the logs
Abar 16-03-2014 08:35
In reality, if the foam is protected from UV, then nothing will happen to it for many, many years; in the light, it doesn’t completely turn into dust, it becomes fragile, crumbles, but holds tightly enough...
cadmium 29-04-2014 14:33
In the USA and Canada, cracks between logs are traditionally covered with lime or cement mortar. Sometimes a strip is laid along the logs metal mesh. It has stood for centuries. There is also a simpler structure of the log house. The logs are laid through one. On two transverse ones, two longitudinal ones, on them again two transverse ones, etc. It turns out to be a log house cage. The gaps there are generally huge, but they are also filled with lime or cement. It stands rooted to the spot. In fact, this is not savagery and not from laziness. Mechanical processing of logs is minimal, they can be of any kind, and filling the gaps of a frame made of logs or timber with lime, clay, and earth has been a tradition in the West since the times of European half-timbered construction.
dim99 29-04-2014 16:20
In the USA and Canada, cracks between logs are traditionally sealed with lime or cement mortar.
==============
We also saw this... houses are 50-60 years old and even without a foundation.. lower crowns on the ground
rufei 29-04-2014 17:27
quote: Originally posted by dim99:
We also saw this... houses are 50-60 years old and even without a foundation... with the lower crowns on the ground
We put them on boulders, they last at least 50 years.
theorist 29-04-2014 21:02
quote: Originally posted by Bezmen:
I once saw a wooden house in a completely low-budget village
so right away during assembly, some kind of mineral wool was laid between the logs
There is a certain non-woven substance in the form of a thick rag. Trade name: Dornit. Initially it was intended to strengthen weak soils, but then Norot adapted to stick it into any crack - from insulation in houses to filters in wells. Here, at the end of the USSR, they assembled timber houses. Its properties are similar to moss - it is breathable, does not rot, and does not emit anything offensive.
handmade 29-04-2014 21:20
I'll follow the topic.
unname22 30-04-2014 09:47
foam is a terrible thing, while everything is fine you don’t even think about it, but if God forbid there is a fire, you will remain there.
When burned, the foam decomposes into very unpleasant substances.
baochka 30-04-2014 10:46
1. moss
2. jute
3. tow
Everything else is from the evil one.
I myself saw how they lay the timber on: felt, thin polystyrene foam, isover, foam, on something gray-brown-crimson (the builders themselves found it difficult to answer).
Foam (and other things) does not breathe. As a result, the tree begins to rot, etc.
Abar 02-05-2014 10:30
quote: but if God forbid there is a fire, you will remain there.
There is a special non-flammable foam - I foamed the joints of the floor next to the stove.
andre 08-05-2014 18:17
quote: Trade name - Dornit. Initially it was intended to strengthen weak soils, but then Norot adapted to stick it into any crack - from insulation in houses to filters in wells. This is where timber houses were assembled at the end of the USSR. Its properties are similar to moss - it is breathable, does not rot, and does not emit anything offensive.
Dornit is still shit - the logs around it rot 100 times faster than usual - they didn’t have time to install the log house, they cut out openings for the windows, and where the Dornit is, the logs are already blue.
vulcan1600 25-05-2014 11:36
It can be even worse.
Straight from lunch...
andre 25-05-2014 16:01
quote: It can be even worse.
They just brought the dornite, and already the whole brigade is blue.
Straight from lunch...
What is the connection with Dornit? Or did you join the brigade?
ICEberg1981 25-05-2014 19:48
heresy
the very meaning of timber is lost
Andrewblake 25-05-2014 22:02
Moss (sphagnum) has bactericidal properties and prevents rotting.
Is it possible to lay logs with jute, and not to pierce a ready-made log house?
Mitro 28-05-2014 06:31
The wood will rot under the foam, and eventually it will die in 3-5 years (it will delaminate, crack, crumble). You'll have to foam it again.
Moss can crumble, and tow can be a bit of a pain to lay down. When building my house I used jute - quickly, efficiently and practically. But you still need to caulk)))). The rest is nonsense and heresy. If the house is wooden, I don’t think it’s worth engaging in perversion and inventing something. Everything has already been invented before us.
