How to correctly insert the door frame into the opening. Proper installation of the door frame of the interior door. Fixing the door frame

Having bought a door frame in a store, you should not immediately despair at the sight of a large number of prefabricated elements. To assemble such a design, it is not necessary to be a specialist with a higher education. To assemble the door frame with our own hands, we will consider the entire installation process in detail.

Usually, interior doors are sold disassembled, and at first glance, an incomprehensible and chaotic set of elements opens up to our eyes, which includes a profiled wooden beam, in the worst case, from MDF, locks and awnings, as well as a canvas. All this remotely resembles a children's designer from the DIY series, and most people, seeing all this, panic and begin to look for an experienced specialist in this field, whose services are very expensive. Other enthusiasts are still trying to solve this puzzle, but their efforts run into a big question mark, because without detailed instructions it is very difficult to understand the assembly process. In this article we will try to help figure out how to assemble a door frame without outside help.

Sizing the box

The first and very important stage of the entire assembly process is the exact calculation, to the millimeter, of the length of the loot racks, the threshold (if any) and the upper jumper.

Measurement of racks

The height of the posts must be equal to the height of the door. Usually the standard door size in height is 2000 mm. After making sure of this, we add the width of the gap between the door leaf and the opening to the height of the door leaf by a width of 2-3 mm. In the case of installing doors with a threshold, the width of two gaps of 3 mm in size must be added to the height of the door leaf, a total of 6 mm. In the version without a threshold, we add only one gap of 3 mm in size, and add 1 cm at the bottom so that the canvas does not cling to the floor when opening and closing the doors.

As a result of accurate measurements, we get the following parameters: for the option with a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 2 gaps of 3 mm = 2006 mm; with the option without a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 3 mm + 10 mm gap = 2019 mm.

Threshold and upper jumper measurement

The size of the threshold and the upper lintel of the door frame must be the same. Let's determine their length correctly, which will be equal to the sum of the width of the door leaf, the width of the gaps between the door and the chute, and the thickness of the profile bar from which the chute will be assembled.

In addition, on both sides of the sections of the jumper and the threshold, it is necessary to cut out the landing samples, that is, cut off the protruding parts of the loot, against which the door rests when closing. The cut should be equal to the thickness of the rack at its widest point.

To correctly cut out the samples, we measure the thickness of the rack from the edge of the jumper on both sides and carefully cut it out with a small hacksaw.

After that, you can screw the door frame with a calm heart.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly

We screw the door frame with self-tapping screws or confirmations for wood with a length of 55 mm or more. In order for the profile bar or MDF to not crack, you must first make holes of a slightly smaller diameter than the screwed self-tapping screw, by about 2-3 mm.

In order for the structure to hold firmly and not fall apart during installation, all joints must be fixed with self-tapping screws at least twice.

Marking and inserting canopies

The final step in the installation of doors is the connection of the leaf with the door frame. With the help of a simple operation, this will not be difficult. Having laid the door frame on the floor, it is necessary to put the door leaf into it with canopies embedded in it.

Place the leaf in the door frame so that the gap is the same on all sides and equals 3 mm. To do this, you can use a school ruler, the thickness of which is just 3 mm.

After the door in the box has been leveled, it is necessary to copy the location of the canopies from the doors to the loot using a marker.

Pull the doors out of the frame, put it on its side and use a chisel or router to cut out seats for the canopies.

Connect the doors with the frame into a single structure and screw the hinges to the hatch.

The assembly of the door frame is completed. Now the whole structure is ready for installation, and you can say with confidence that you have mastered the puzzle of assembling a door frame with your own hands!

A properly installed door frame provides 90% success in installing the door frame as a whole.

Diagram of a door frame in a wall opening.

Before you put the door frame, you need to carefully study the basics of this delicate work.

Tools and materials

Tools necessary for work: tape measure, pencil, hammer, square, construction knife, perforator, drill, screwdriver.

Depending on its design, you can install the door frame using the following tools and materials:

• wood saw;
• a hacksaw with a small tooth;
• miter box;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• drill;
• drill;
• construction knife;
• roulette;
• square;
• bubble level;
• pencil;
• a hammer;
• nail puller;
• direct suspensions;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• anchors;
• nails;
• mounting foam;
• glue for MDF;
• wedges;
• wooden bars;
• door frame;
• wood putty;
• additional elements;
• ruberoid;
• building mix.

Preparatory work

Cross section of door frames of different types.

If the door frame is installed in place of the old one, the latter must first be dismantled. The easiest way to do this is to simply cut the side and top planks in half and pull out the resulting pieces with a nail puller. Sometimes it is necessary to cut the fixing nails and anchors around the perimeter. If there are embedded parts in the opening, it is better to leave them. Subsequently, it will be easier to install a new box on mortgages.

In most cases, an interior door frame can be purchased as a universal kit. You have to assemble and adjust it to the desired size yourself. The box set necessarily includes side and top strips, a threshold or bottom strip for interior doors - a rarity, but may be present. The vestibule can be integral with the slats or be laid on. The box itself is either wooden or MDF. The strips included in the kit are designed for use as part of a block with a door leaf 2 m high and 60-90 cm wide.

You can accurately mark the planks before cutting as follows. The detachable porch is installed in the side strips, which are laid out with the front surface up approximately along the width of the opening. The canvas is placed on the porches between the slats. The top bar is put in place. With a solid porch, it can be applied with the upper side to the canvas, this will not affect the measurements. A uniform gap of 2-3 mm is set along the perimeter of the canvas, for this you can use cardboard scraps, tile corners, or just by eye. We note the location of the canopies on the side bar and canvas.

Scheme of installation of door hinges.

The hinges are cut before the box is installed in the opening, or better before it is assembled. This makes work more convenient. The bar is laid out on a horizontal surface, the contour of the loop is outlined, excess material is removed with the help of a chisel. It is generally accepted that the canopies are located at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower surfaces of the door leaf. For lightweight canvases, amplifiers are made in these places.

The places for cutting the planks are carefully marked with a pencil. For a door with a threshold, the gap to it from the bottom of the leaf is assumed to be 2.5 mm. For a door without a threshold, the clearance under the door is from 1 to 1.5 cm. On the upper and lower strips with a solid rebate, marks are made opposite the edges of the rebate on the side strips. This will allow you to cut off the extra protruding ledge at the top and bottom to match the corners of the box.

We cut all the strips to the desired size with a hacksaw. A miter box will help cut the elements evenly. On the upper and lower slats, using a hacksaw and a chisel, we remove the extra porch along the serifs. Again we lay out the box on the floor and put the canvas into it with the installation of the necessary gaps. We fix all corners with two self-tapping wood screws 75 mm long with a countersunk head. For self-tapping screws, pre-drill holes of a suitable diameter. If you screw in the screws without drilling, you can split the ends of the slats.

When the width of the opening allows, it is better to reinforce the MDF box on the sides with additional bars. So the structure will become more rigid. Before trying to insert the door frame into the opening, we fasten 3 straight hangers along its outer side surfaces: 2 at the edges and 1 in the middle. A strip of roofing material is nailed to the lower end of the structure with a threshold.

Door frame installation

Door frame installation diagram.

We install the box in the opening. It should enter freely and not rest anywhere. Everything that interferes must be knocked down. For the option with a threshold, a strobe in the floor may be required. During installation, it is filled with a mortar or a polymer building mixture.

To begin with, the side of the box, on which there will be sheds, is set according to the level in 2 planes and in alignment with the wall. This side can immediately be fixed to the opening with direct suspensions. Approximately the upper bar is set to the horizon. It is checked that it does not touch anything, it is even better to have a small gap for subsequent adjustment.

It is quite difficult to accurately set the top bar and the reciprocal side rack in terms of level.

Fine adjustment is carried out with the curtain hung. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the door will not evenly approach the porch over the entire plane.

The canvas is placed on the canopies, the upper and side counterparts are set with the required clearance around the perimeter and along the narthex. This is done with wedges. 3 reciprocal direct suspensions are screwed.

For models made of MDF with a removable rebate, the box is rigidly fixed to the opening with anchors or long self-tapping screws through the groove for the rebate. In wooden planks, you can hide the location of the fasteners with the help of wood putty that matches the color. MDF versions with a solid rebate can be fixed through the box only in 3 places: under the canopies and the striker of the lock latch. But such fasteners are too close to the edge of the wall and can lead to chips. Therefore, it is better to limit yourself to mounting on direct suspensions and mounting foam.

Before filling the gap with foam, the ends of the opening should be slightly moistened with water. It is desirable to fill in such a way that the foam does not crawl out of the plane of the wall. Cutting it leaves the pores open and reduces the strength and durability of the filling.

So that the foam does not squeeze the opening, it must be wedged. You can simply leave the canvas in the opening, and put cardboard scraps in the gaps. If the door opens into the room, this will not work. You will have to use scraps of wooden bars and wedged them in the opening.

After a day, the foam will harden. The removable porch is fixed with glue. For reliability, you can add small carnations with bitten off hats. It remains to draw an opening and embed fittings. When you want to have a platband on both sides of the opening, and the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall, additional trims are used.

Door frames are sold in hardware stores, usually already assembled, ready-made, but their individual components (cut lumber) are also on sale, there is one advantage in purchasing the latter - during assembly, the box can be adjusted to the required dimensions of the doorway. Installing a door frame with your own hands is not an easy task and it is not recommended to take it on without certain knowledge. Therefore, we propose to study the installation technology, as well as assembly schemes.

Tools

To perform self-assembly of the door frame, you need approximately the following set of tools:

• a set of bars (should be included in the door frame kit);
• level or plumb (to avoid distortions);
• a hammer;
• nails;
• screwdriver or drill with a special nozzle for tightening screws;
• electric milling cutter;
• screws;
• hacksaw;
• slats made of wood;
• a set of chisels;
• cuttings for wedges;
• assembly foam.

Having a set of professional tools is an expensive pleasure, but it provides a high-quality result of the work. After all, if you carry out the installation with simple improvised tools, and besides, without the appropriate experience, you may simply not be able to withstand the required accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, contact one of the many companies where you can rent any necessary tool or device for a small fee.

Assembly technology

The assembly of the door frame is carried out in several stages.

Stage 1

1. Lay the bars of the door structure on the floor.
2. Carefully inspect the available material and make sure that the shortest bar of the structure has grooves (their presence is important for the convenient connection of all parts).
3. Carefully fit the grooves on the top bar together with the side bars, and then knock all these elements down. In order not to damage the material, use a wooden mallet.
4. Fasten the parts together with screws and check the reliability of the resulting structure.
5. In the absence of grooves in a short bar, all parts of the structure are fastened with nails or screws.

Stage 2

The next step is to install the door hinges.

Stage 3

1. On the inside of the structure, measure 20 cm from the top edge.
2. Attach the door hinge and circle its outline with a pencil.
3. It is known that the folded hinge leaves a small gap from the door to the frame (0.4 cm). Given the thickness of the hinge, calculate the depth of its installation.
4. Using a router, make a platform for attaching the loop. If you didn’t have an electric mill, you can use a set of chisels for this purpose.
5. Similarly, make a seat for the lower door hinge. But keep in mind that the distance from the bottom edge of the structure should be 21 cm (1 cm is allocated to the bottom gap).
6. Attach the door frame, with the hinges installed on it, to the door and mark the places on the door where the hinges will be attached. Arrange the slots on the door for the hinges in the same way that you previously made them on the frame.

Stage 4

1. Take measurements of the height of the side of the doorway and then transfer the resulting dimensions to the side bars of the door structure.
2. Keeping safety in mind, carefully lift the U-shaped box from the floor and proceed directly to its installation in the opening. Using a plumb or level, carefully check the verticality of the box, the perpendicularity of all its constituent elements and the horizontality of the top bar. From the first time, the frame may not “fit” into the opening (even if you have made all the measurements correctly). But that's not a problem. The resulting gaps between the opening and the box can be easily and quickly eliminated using wooden wedges or mounting foam.
3. After you install the frame in its place, be sure to secure it. Screw the door frame with dowels to the slopes of the opening.
4. Make sure that the door frame you assembled fits securely into the doorway.
5. Remove the temporary braces and battens, and don't forget to saw off the protruding parts of the wooden wedges.

Proceed to hanging the door on the hinges and fastening the trim.

Fasten platbands with nails, screws, or glue. After installation, the nail heads are usually overwritten, and if self-tapping screws were used, decorative plastic caps are put on them.

As you can see, the installation of a door frame requires not only knowledge, but also installation experience and patience.

Video

The subtleties of installing the door frame:

Scheme

This section will show you how to install the door frame:

A photo

The photo shows how to install the box:

Each master is faced with the problem of how and on what to fix the assembled doors. To install the finished door block, it is possible to use various installation methods. Knowing these installation options, you can easily choose the right one for yourself. You will need a small set of tools such as a drill, hammer, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also, to directly fix the box in the opening, you need fasteners and mounting foam. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.

The main stages of installing a door block

At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then press this structure away from the opening. If anchor bolts were used during the installation of the old box, nails that cannot be unscrewed can be cut off using a grinder.

Before installing the interior door frame, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the wall box does not deepen in the opening. This is necessary to fit the door trim. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the opening errors.

First, the installations are rigidly fixed in the opening, in order to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location of the level so that the box is level with the door.

Working with mounting foam

It is important to know that the foam that is designed for the gun is much better and more convenient to use due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it hardens much faster. Foam, which is fed with a straw in a large amount, it will expand longer. Before starting work, it is better to cover the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know that you need to start foaming with the fixation of individual small sections. After 30 minutes, you can already go through the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a large amount of foam, because during expansion the foam will squeeze the box inside. We recommend using professional foams.

Since the tree shrinks and expands precisely because of the increased humidity, the consequence of expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door simply stops closing for this reason.

Video on possible door mounting methods

There are several ways to fasten the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use of a special type of fastening. Various fastening options provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope the video stories on the options for installing wooden door frames will help you.

Hidden way to install doors on foam

The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used for fixing, and the correct location is checked by the building level. Foaming with mounting foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is kept almost thanks to the foam alone.

To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, small spacers of 3 mm are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can be removed only when the foam dries. Usually the door is left overnight.

This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.

Installing doors with clamps or spacers

The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use inside for temporary fastening of the door block in the opening of the spacer. It can be both ordinary wooden rivers and special adjustable devices.

Both of these methods are very good for light and small doors.

Fastening doors with Knauf hangers

For these purposes, Knauf's direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best fit.

• First you need to screw the plates to the box.
• Insert the door into the opening.
• Adjust the level.
• We mark the places under the recess in the wall.
• We make a sample under the plate.

After that, we set according to the level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use wedging with wooden bars.

It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess will definitely need to be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is good only when there is no fine finish.

New mounting options

This video will let you know how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of fastening is the installation of an interior door frame by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of self-tapping screws that are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed on the outside of the box.

To achieve the final fixation of the frame in the doorway, the usual means of adjustment are used.

With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.

A clear advantage of this method is the full possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation while maintaining the original appearance of the box and the external finish of the wall.

Concealed installation, fastening under hinges

As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the loop and fastened through it to the wall. From the side of the lock, another mount is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.

After fixing directly, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and fill all the gaps with foam.

A significant advantage of this method is the relative rigidity, the preservation of appearance.

Through-hole fastening on anchors or screws

This is the most common standard installation option for interior doors. For this mounting option, first, holes for anchors are drilled in the right places of the racks, then the door is fixed in the opening.

Training

• Marking 4 anchors on each side.
• Drilling with a pen 14 mm to a depth of 10 mm (space for a plug).
• We drill a through hole with a 10 mm pen (a place for fixing with an anchor).

After that, the box is exposed and the concrete under the anchor is drilled with a 10 mm drill. When the box rests on its anchors, it holds securely and does not require any spacers. The attachment points can be hidden by installing decorative caps of the desired color, size (14 mm). Screws can be used instead of anchors, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. The use of this option is the most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) a curved rail. Doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs.

Tricks when installing door extensions

Conclusion

There are many options for installing an interior door frame, but you should choose the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be affected by which opening the installation takes place, take into account the intensity and other factors.

Unlike metal doors fully prepared for installation, wooden counterparts are sold as a complete set. The explanation is simple - many manufacturers (mostly foreign companies) supply models of certain standard sizes to the market, and not for a specific opening, and do not meet our standards. In addition, it is not known in which direction the door should swing open at the installation site.

Therefore, the door frame is represented by bars, from which you still need to assemble the jamb and prepare it for hanging the canvas. Knowing some of the features of "design" will allow you not to resort to the services of hired craftsmen, but to do all the work yourself.

Useful information

1. It will be useful to those who, for whatever reason, do not want to purchase a door in a furniture store, but prefer to make it on their own, according to their drawings. This often happens with non-standard openings; it is much easier to assemble a box of the required dimensions than to expand / narrow the passage. The nuance is in the choice of the width of the beam. It must correspond to the thickness of the wall, and the latter (for buildings erected according to a standard design) depends on its material.

Dimensions - in mm. Deviations within ±5 are allowed.

• Brickwork 75 - box 108.
• Log house (log, timber) 100 - jamb 120.

1. If an imported model is purchased, then its box is slightly different in size due to a mismatch of standards. Its width varies from 80 to 205. Therefore, you will need to choose a suitable block, focusing on the thickness of the wall at the location of the opening.

What is it connected with? With a significant difference in size, problems with the installation of platbands are provided. There are several solutions - the use of extensions, the manufacture of a "draft" box; but all of them only complicate the installation and increase the final cost of the work.

Box contents

• Loop jamb (vertical rack on which canopies are attached).
• The vestibule (opposite side of the box on which the striker plate of the lock, latches is mounted).
• Ceiling (horizontal element connecting the racks) It is also called the upper timber.
• Nut (lower jumper; optional part of the design, but some models are equipped with it). It is used if a do-it-yourself door frame is assembled for its installation in rooms such as a bathroom, toilet and a number of others, where emergencies are possible associated with a breakthrough in liquid communications. The task of the threshold is to prevent the spread of water in adjacent rooms.

Assembly Options

The task is to connect the individual parts of the kit into a rectangular frame structure. Depending on the presence/absence of the threshold, it takes the form of a closed/open loop. In principle, there is nothing complicated; the main thing is to make a competent installation. When deciding how to assemble a door frame, you need to consider that this can be done in several ways. Which is preferable, you will have to decide on your own. In this case, much depends on practical experience in this area and the tool that is at hand.

baguette connection

Plus - the relative ease of assembly. The technology consists in corner sawing (trimming) of the ends of the fastened elements (450). After combining the parts, the final fixation is made with screws (self-tapping screws).

Minus - limitation in application. It is related to the material of the jamb. For example, it is not recommended to assemble an MDF door frame in this way - it is possible that the edges will “ruffle”, the appearance of cracks and chips.

spike connection

Plus - reliability. This assembly option ensures the durability of the structure, while the door is subjected to constant and significant loads. For example, at the entrance to the building, in places of intensive movement of people.

Minus - self-assembly requires not only experience, but also a special tool. In their absence, no, even the most detailed, step-by-step instruction will help.

Right angle

Plus - it is considered the simplest technique to implement independently, and therefore convenient: a special tool, except for a household one, is not needed. It is only necessary to cut off a certain part of the quarter (depending on the dimensions of the connected elements) and fasten the parts according to the dimensions of the opening. Sometimes this is not practiced - the connection is made end-to-end. The result is expected - the door frame is strong, reliable.

Assembly order

The technique is a right angle. When self-assembling, it is recommended to completely mount the structure, and only then place it in the opening.

In some step-by-step instructions, a different technology is considered - the preparation and installation of individual parts of the frame in the opening, their alignment with linings and further connection into a single whole. This method is much more difficult, and without proper experience it is better not to practice.

1. Preparation of the workplace: free a certain segment on the floor, put together several tables of equal height. The task is to provide a smooth, solid foundation. Otherwise, it will not work to make a high-quality assembly of the box for the entrance, interior door.
2. Measuring the dimensions of the opening. Produced in 3 levels (width) and 3 points (height: center and sides). In accordance with this, the required dimensions of the box are determined; there should be a technological gap between it and the walls (recommended within 4 ± 1 mm).

1. Open samples. It is done if their dimensions in length do not match the opening. To do this, you need a pencil (draw lines) and a hand saw.
2. Pre-assembly of the box. All parts are laid out according to the scheme, taking into account the direction of opening the canvas. That is, it takes into account which side of the rectangle the porch and the loop jamb should be on. After aligning the “shape”, its geometry is controlled, the sizes match, and marks are applied to select a part of the quarter.
3. Connection preparation. Notches are made along the marked lines, after which a part of the part is removed with a chisel. To increase the reliability of the joint, the cut is leveled to an ideal state - with a knife, file, grinder.
4. Marking for fittings and material selection. It is more expedient to immediately prepare the “nests” for the hinges, the striker of the latch (lock), than to do this after the door frame is installed in the opening. But modern canopies (for example, "butterflies") should not be fixed. They are fixed on the box when hanging the canvas. The only exception is for loops of old modifications, collapsible; one half of them is installed on the frame during its assembly.

1. The connection of the parts of the box. For each "line" - at least two fasteners. The interval between them is chosen so that they are located at least 5 mm from the edge.

Note. If a threshold is provided, then it is placed in a box with the expectation that there should be at least 10 mm from it to the canvas. This is necessary to ensure the natural circulation of air currents.

It remains only to check the correctness of the geometry, to process the joints in order to eliminate possible differences in height and install the door frame in the opening.

It turns out that there is nothing super complicated in the assembly of the jamb. In the process of work, cutters, a laser level and other special tools (equipment) will not be needed. All that is needed for the "design" of the box is accuracy, attentiveness and marking accuracy.