A simple do-it-yourself stand for an angle grinder, drawings. Homemade frame for an angle grinder: how to make an angle grinder. Manufacturing of main components

The grinder is an instrument with an obstinate character. It cuts, grinds, and cleans, but it does it at such high speeds that sometimes you can’t even hold it in your hands! Therefore, there is no need to talk about high accuracy of work. A stand for an angle grinder is just what you need to tame the shrew!

Holder for an angle grinder – isn’t it easier to buy?

Why invent a tripod for an angle grinder if you can do everything yourself? It can be done, but the quality of the cut, its evenness and accuracy will remain at a very low level. Well, there is no way for a master to cope with a tool that has more revolutions than the human eye can perceive. It is for such cases that there is a tripod for an angle grinder, made with your own hands or purchased at the nearest hardware store.

The convenience of the device lies in the fact that it can be used if necessary, although many craftsmen, in order not to bother with the next installation of the tool on a tripod, buy a separate grinder for this purpose; fortunately, models that are suitable for working on tripods are not so expensive. It's cheaper than buying anyway cutting machine. Most users note that the angle grinder stand they purchased needs, if not complete, then partial modification.

Models of Chinese origin are completely one-time use - they are mainly made from sheet metal stamping method. Light parts from the vibration of the tool scatter in all directions over time, and the design itself turns out to be too light and unstable for such a machine. So what happens - Is it better to make a device for attaching an angle grinder with your own hands? Judging by the number of different drawings, tips, master classes that you can stumble upon on the Internet, the answer will be yes!

Device for attaching an angle grinder - safety rules!

Before we begin the review various designs, it should be noted that all of them are designed to work with grinders adapted for maximum 125 mm discs. Already putting the 230th angle grinder into a rack is fraught with danger, since you often have to remove the protective covers, and besides, the operator behind the rack stands against the rotation of the disc. Neglecting safety precautions when working with an angle grinder is very, very dangerous!

When constructing the machine, use only high-strength materials for the protective casing. For convenience, many people use plexiglass so that the protective screen does not block their view, but the use of materials that can form fragments from an impact is strictly prohibited! It’s better not to make casings from scrap materials, but to purchase finished goods which will provide the best protection.

Stand for an angle grinder - making a grinding machine!

Let's consider the design of a grinding machine, which allows the operator to be on the side of the rotation of the disk - just in the zone where fragments of the abrasive, in the event of its destruction, cannot fly. Most drawings are designed to create machines from metal by welding various parts, however, the described do-it-yourself grinder frame is made from wooden elements, which greatly speeds up the creation of the machine and makes the process possible even if you do not have a welding machine.

You will need wooden box or boards for putting it together, hammer, manual or electric jigsaw, drill, fasteners (ties, bolts), door hinges. If you have a good, sturdy wooden box, large enough that you don't have to bend very low, you can save a lot of time by using that as a base. If you don’t want to spoil the box, put together its likeness: it will be enough to make the side on which you will subsequently attach the grinder, and the top of the machine, and compensate for the missing sides of the box with legs.

The protective casing and handle from the angle grinder must be removed at this stage. We have to make a slot in the top of the box for a cutting disc or other attachment. To do this, put the disc on the grinder and lean the tool against the side wall, mark the width and length of the gap with a pencil. It should not be too wide, so that if foreign objects get into it, the disk will not jam.

This precaution will have to be sacrificed if there is a constant need to change the disk during work - with a narrow gap, you will have to disassemble the entire structure, which will take too much time.

To securely fasten the grinder to the wall of the box, two bars are screwed - one supports the tool near the base, the second serves to support the grinder directly next to the disk. A metal eye is screwed to the top bar with self-tapping screws, which replaces the handle. All you need to do is tighten the screw - if the device has a through hole, you should not screw the screw deeper than the length of the thread. Additionally, along the entire length of the body, the tool should be secured with ties, for which we first mark and drill holes.

The grinding machine is almost ready! All that remains is to provide for the possibility of raising the workpieces being processed relative to the disk. To do this on top part can be placed almost flush against the disc wooden shield, which is hinged on the side so that it can be removed if necessary. To secure the shield, you can make a latch or padlock. Supplement the design with protective panels, and if this is not possible, then when working, be sure to wear a protective mask that covers the entire face. When the device is turned on, try not to be in the area of flying fragments.

Stand for an angle grinder - making a cutting machine!

It cannot be made from wood for cutting metal workpieces. Here you will need some solid details. First of all, the platform, which should be heavy enough to absorb vibrations from the operation of the tool. Alternatively, the platform is bolted to the workbench, which completely eliminates the movement of the machine during operation. To implement the simplest design you will need a sheet of steel, metal corners, bolts, drill with metal drills, spring.

Second important element rack - a hinged handle to which the tool is attached. There are many options for its manufacture - this is simplest design of two metal slats connected to each other, and the use is already ready-made solutions or details. For example, if you often have to work with angle grinders, you probably have parts from worn-out tools lying around in your garage that you use when needed. So, instead of a hinge, you can use a gearbox, which should be unscrewed from the body and screwed to the platform using brackets and bolts. A handle is attached to the spindle, and the grinder is fixed to it. It is recommended that the handle be made with a stop under the bottom of the angle grinder, and also be equipped with a return spring.

Using metal corners on the platform, you can make various stops at your discretion, with the help of which it will be convenient to fix workpieces for cutting. Here, everyone is their own master and craftsman - some build additional vices for greater accuracy, others make do with fitting “by eye.” As is the case with grinding machine, do not neglect safety if your design does not provide the ability to secure protective cover, always wear a protective mask when working.

To cut metal, all you need is a manual angle grinder with a cutting disc. But sometimes it becomes necessary to cut workpieces strictly at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees; it is quite difficult to do this perfectly accurately using a manual grinder, so I will show you the drawings and tell you how to make a homemade frame for an angle grinder.

This article provides a method for making a cutting machine from an angle grinder.

On the Internet you can find many ways to make such a machine. Presented here new way, based on the principle of horizontal movement of sliders along guides made of chrome-plated shower curtain rods. The grinder stand is perfect for cutting sheet metal.

For the guides it is supposed to use a PVC pipe with a diameter of 40 mm.

Step 1: Making the bracket

We will create a cutting machine based on the Dewalt D28402 angle grinder. Most machines have two threaded holes for attaching the handle, located on opposite sides. We use these holes to attach the bracket to them.

The dimensions of the bracket will depend on the type and size of the sander. The design of the bracket should allow easy removal of the machine from the machine if you suddenly need to use it manually.

To assemble the bracket, you will need to make five blanks from a steel strip with a cross section of 25*6 mm. After assembly by welding, the bracket should look like the photo.

Weld a small piece of reinforcing bar with a diameter of 10 mm to the bracket for mounting on it wooden handle. Make a handle from a piece of wood, drill a hole in the center, sand the handle and secure it to the rod using a glue gun.

Step 2: Use old ski boots

To press the handle of the grinder to the adjusting bolt, we will use a buckle from an old ski boot.

Remove the buckle parts from the boot, attach a small piece of the strap to one of the parts, and secure the other end of the strap and the main clip with a screw on the bracket next to the hole for the adjustment bolt. This fastening will securely press the grinder handle to the adjusting bolt.

Step 3: Making the Slider Mechanism

The crucial moment has arrived. We will make a slider mechanism from two chrome-plated curtain rods for shower curtains and PVC pipes with a diameter of 40 mm.

Cut two pieces of PVC pipe, each 150mm long. Drill two through holes with a diameter of 25 mm from each end of the PVC pipes. The distance from the edge of the pipe to the edge of the hole should be 25-30 mm. Assemble the design of the slider mechanism as shown in the photo. To ensure that the mechanism works smoothly, lubricate the PVC joints and eaves pipes with lithol or other thick lubricant.

Then we make and fasten a plate with two hinges on the front side of the eaves pipes, to which the grinding machine bracket will be attached. The hinges will allow you to rotate and move the grinder to the workpiece to be cut.

The assembly process is presented in detail in the photo.

To ensure that the movement of the cornice pipes relative to each other does not cause the sander to skew during operation, screw a leveling rectangular metal plate on the other side of these pipes. Using two holes, the plate is bolted to the pipes (one bolt for each pipe). The third elongated oval hole is also bolted to one of the eaves pipes. The elongated shape of the hole will allow you to adjust the direction of the cutting disc so that it is directed strictly parallel to the line of movement of the sliders. The bolt is then tightened.

Let's move on to assembling the machine frame.

Step 4: Making the Frame

The slider mechanism and cutting table will be attached to the frame. The slider mechanism is attached to PVC pipe guides using four U-shaped plastic clamps.

We manufacture the frame in next order. Take two pipes square section 25*25 mm and connect them at a distance of 150 mm from each other using two steel angles with a section of 25*25. Then take two steel angles 35*35, 230 mm long, and weld them on the sides of the frame pipes so that they form a certain plane to which the guides will be attached using clamps (see photo). Please note that the platform should be approximately 6 mm higher than the base. This will allow the slider mechanism to move freely over the products being cut.

Drill four holes in each steel corner of the platform and weld them underneath opposite the nut holes. This will make it easier to attach the guides with U-shaped clamps.

Make a slot in the front corner connecting the frame pipes so that the cutting wheel of the grinding machine can move freely while working on the machine.

Step 5: Assembly

Place the angle grinder on the bracket and screw it on.
Insert the chrome rods from the curtain rod into the two PVC pipe guides.
Secure the PVC pipe guides with four U-clamps (align the chrome pipes with the center of the frame before tightening the clamps).
Screw the hinge plate to the front of the chrome pipes to secure the sander bracket.
Attach a leveling plate to the back of the pipes and use it to level the sander so that the cutting disc is exactly parallel to the slides. Tighten the leveling plate bolts.

Before assembly, it is advisable to paint the metal parts of the frame and bracket with spray paint, let it dry for about a day and then assemble.

After final assembly of the structure, lubricate the holes of the PVC pipes through which the chrome pipes pass with thick lubricant. This will allow the slider mechanism to move easily and smoothly.

Step 6: Setting up the cutting table

The cutting table consists of a thin sheet of steel that is riveted to the front of the frame.

After complete assembly You need to align the cutting disc vertically so that it is perpendicular to the table. To do this, lower the cutting disc onto the cutting table and, placing a piece of steel angle or square pipe against the disc, adjust the vertical of the disc using the adjusting bolt on the bracket. Once aligned, the ski boot buckle will securely hold the sander handle on the adjustment bolt.

Then turn on the sander and use it to make a cut on steel sheet table, leaving small “undercuts” in the front and back of the table.

Cut a guide bar measuring 25*6*255 mm from a piece of aluminum block, drill holes in it and screw it to the table exactly at an angle of 90 degrees to the cutting line. Also make more holes in the bar and in the table so that you can fix the bar at an angle of 45 degrees to the slot.

Step 7: Final Testing

After the guide bar is fixed on the table at the desired angle, you can make test cuts on the workpieces and make the final adjustment of the machine.

This is how you can turn a pile of scrap metal into useful tool- machine for angle grinders!

Step 8: Materials for assembling the machine

Materials for completing the project:

two pieces of PVC pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 150 mm;
four plastic U-clips;
two chrome rods for shower curtains with a diameter of 25 mm and a length of 600 mm each;
steel strip with a cross section of 25*6 mm and a length of about 600 mm for the manufacture of brackets and hinges;
two square pipes 25*25 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm and a length of 560 mm each;
two steel angles 35*35 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm and a length of 230 mm each;
two steel corners 25*25 mm with a wall thickness of 4.5 mm and a length of 150 mm each;
two steel rectangular plates measuring 115*75*3 mm;
one sheet of thin iron for a table measuring 215*240 mm;
one piece of aluminum bar with a cross-section of 25*6 mm and a length of 255 mm;
one ski boot buckle;
one nylon strap 25 mm wide and 200 mm long;
one M10 bolt 130 mm long with a nut: for making a hinge;
one wooden block with a cross section of 100*25 mm.

Step 9: Tools and Safety

Tools for the project:

square;
roulette;
impact wrench;
corner grinding machine, cutting and grinding wheels;
welding machine;
drilling machine and a set of drills of various diameters;
hand drill;
center punch;
rivets with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm;
sander

Safety precautions:

Tools used in the manufacture of the machine may present a risk of injury or impact. electric shock. Use the tool in strict accordance with its instructions.

When working, use the following personal protective equipment:

safety glasses;
protective mask;
hearing protection;
welding mask;
clothing and footwear made of durable fire-resistant materials;
gloves.

A grinder is an electric tool with which you can perform large amounts of work. construction work. It cuts metal parts, stone and other hard materials. It can be used to clean and polish surfaces, cut to size ceramic tiles. This tool is indispensable for installation, construction and repair work. Use it at home and in the workplace.

Safety rules

Bulgarian is dangerous item, which has huge turnover. If you do not follow the instructions for use, you can be seriously injured. Before starting work and making a homemade stand for an angle grinder, be sure to read the safety rules.

1. When slicing hard materials Various particles of metal or stone and sharp fragments fly out from under the abrasive wheel. The first reliable remedy for debris flying into the master’s face is type. There are cases where the circle itself is broken. Shards can hit the glasses and break them, so glasses should be reinforced, with a protective mesh. Don't be stingy, it's your health.

2. The grinder must have a screen surrounding the knives. Some workers wearing a circle large diameter, remove the casing that interferes with movement. Also, when making it yourself, they can get rid of it altogether. Under no circumstances should this be done. It is placed without fail and in such a way that the operator is behind it. Thus, the fragments are knocked off the casing and fly in the opposite direction.

Stand for grinder

When working with this tool, many craftsmen have to perform monotonous, identical cuts. Holding it in your hand, it is very difficult to achieve evenness of the strip. Strong rotations and vibration do not allow a person to hold the product exactly in one position; the hand will definitely move. To prevent this from happening, buy a stand for the grinder.

But under strong constant loads and vibrations, the parts of the stand become loose and crack. Yes, and it is mainly designed to work with a circle of maximum 125 mm. The big one won't fit there. If you want a stand for an angle grinder that is strong and reliable, then the best option will do it with your own hands. Self-production will add confidence in the quality of the fasteners, the master will work calmly.

Small device for home use

This product is manufactured for home use only, for minor works. It is made from plywood and wooden blocks. The tool itself is installed stationary and does not move. Take two sheets of plywood. A grinder is secured to the bottom square with clamps and a beam in the form of a stand is screwed on.

Second part on furniture hinges placed on top. A slit is cut for. The advantage of this arrangement is that the master does not hold the tool in his hands. Also, the circle is partially visible and cannot fly out, causing injury to the operator. Such an easy-to-use device for cutting small metal corners is suitable, aluminum profile, ceramic tiles.

Welded metal structure

When making this model, you need to have a drawing of a stand for an angle grinder of your size.

Work is carried out from metal profile and tubes using a welding machine. The platform for the stand must be heavy and capable of withstanding high-power vibrations. Next, the upper part is made, to which the tool itself is attached along with the casing. The bolted structure is installed to a welded corner on two metal legs.

In order for the angle grinder stand to move smoothly, the top and bottom panels are connected by a strong spring, for which holes are drilled. A guide angle is welded onto the platform at right angles to the circle.

Pendulum stand

What’s good about a pendulum-shaped stand for an angle grinder is that it simplifies the sawing process. Due to the support on the table and the system of this design, you can perform work of varying complexity and trim materials of any density. With such a device, you do not need to apply much effort; the pressure is carried out by the mass of the tool itself.

For making this option stands will need a spring, two hinges, a metal profile, corners and a welding machine. It is also advisable to have a strong iron table on which the entire structure can be installed. Having skills in such work, the master will quickly make such a pendulum. It is much easier to work if the handle is long and comfortable. The fingers are at a safe distance. No bending required. Sparks and debris fly in the opposite direction. And having a free approach to the table, you can perform work with large materials and products. It is convenient and allows you to perform a variety of processes.

When choosing a rack that suits you in all respects, do not forget about safety precautions. Then work will bring only joy.

It is better to secure a massive grinder in a rack. With the help of such a machine it will be possible to cut parts of the same type or parts with a large surface area with greater accuracy. It doesn’t always make sense to buy a ready-made frame - they often have insufficient rigidity, and it will not be possible to securely secure the angle grinder in them. It is much easier to assemble it yourself from durable metal corners or scraps of water pipes.

To make a stand for an angle grinder we will need the following parts:

support frame: it can be welded from profile pipes; such a design will have increased rigidity and not be afraid of vibration; when using wooden blocks, it is advisable to take hard rocks wood;

Support frame

working platform (table cover) with mounting holes: it is made of sheet steel; you can attach a sheet of cast iron from old stove– it drills easily and is not difficult to work with;
a vertical stand for attaching tools: for it we use two small pieces of steel corners with holes drilled in them; they are bolted to the grinder gearbox using the holes for the handle; For reliable fixation First, we lightly fasten the corners together by welding directly on the grinder, and then, after removing the tool, we finally weld them together;

Tool holder

a rotary lever with fastenings: we will describe the principle of its operation below;
quick-release vice for securing parts; since the thread on the stud quickly fails, we will make a clamp from an elongated nut cut in the shape of a semicircle, which is welded onto the stud; to make it heavier, we attach a small piece of metal to its opposite end, which will serve as a kind of paw for lifting the clamp;

Quick clamping vice

rotary table for product processing complex shape: you can use a hub from passenger car suitable size;

Rotary table

ruler attached to turntable: for simple work you can use a carpenter's bevel-protractor; for precise measurements, a structure is assembled from a protractor and 2 machinist's rulers.

Manufacturing of main components

So, let's describe the process of assembling the frame step by step:

1. The main difficulty is the design of the rotary lever, which must securely fix the angle grinder and ensure its rotation by 90°. To do this, you can use metal corners or profile pipes with bolts screwed to them in two planes, which will provide pressure on the tool.

2. To make a hinge device, you can take three connecting rods from an old car and an axle pin. This device will have no backlash or gaps, and the hinge axis will run parallel to the table plane, ensuring cutting accuracy. Although you can assemble a swing arm from ordinary hinges.

Rotary lever assembled from connecting rods and axle pin

3. Old springs of the appropriate size will ensure smooth movement of the swing arm and return the angle grinder to its original position.

4. In order for the rotary lever to stand exactly at a right angle, we substitute it with the already assembled structure fitter's corner, and using a mounting tool we slightly bend the connecting rod mechanism.

Using a plumber's angle, we set the rotary lever exactly at a right angle

5. To ensure free movement of the tool in the table, we make a slot of the required size using a cutting wheel of the largest thickness. If necessary, we modify it (expand and lengthen) with a small grinder.

6. Accurate cutting of parts at 45 and 90° angles can be achieved by screwing to work surface steel corner. To do this, insert the disk into the slot and mark the location of the mounting holes. By changing the location of such a device relative to the disk, it will be possible to rotate the parts at different angles. To obtain a mirror angle of 45°, you will need to prepare a hole that will be located at 135° relative to the disk.

Holes for mounting angles at 45, 90 and 135°

7. You can also attach a movable ruler with a limiter to our frame. In this case, it will be possible to trim the products as accurately as possible.

8. For ease of work, you will also need to attach a handle to the vertical stand that clamps the grinder on the side opposite the disk. You can use a long bolt with a plastic tube tightly fitted onto it.

9. To check the alignment, insert a grinder into the device and manually scroll the disk several times. If there is no beat, turn it on at low speed and try to cut wooden blank. If the instrument begins to vibrate, we look for the cause and eliminate it.

10. It is better to turn the device on/off remotely - after all, the worker’s hands are always busy. In this case, we use a magnetic starter attached to the foot pedal.

Making a removable casing

To increase the safety of the device and protect it from sparks, it is better to make a casing for the angle grinder from galvanized sheet metal or the metal casing of old equipment. It can also be welded from thin metal.

To avoid mistakes, we first make a template from cardboard.
We cut out mirror patterns along it.
To prevent protruding rivets from interfering with the grinding wheel, we rivet the mounting angles from the inside.
We fold and connect both halves of the casing with rivets, fasten them to the clamping rod and prepare threaded holes for fastening.

Many individuals try to do universal machines for do-it-yourself grinders, which will involve various components that will allow you to increase the abilities of an angle grinder many times over, but not everyone succeeds. The main differences between these models:

presence/absence of a frame – massive metal, wooden plate or frame;
feeder (carriage) for tool or material – forward/backward;
the presence of a transmission unit - belt drive on rollers;
nodes for tilting, shifting material or angle grinders at a certain angle;

We will try to cover various devices and tell you about most of them. The designs of some devices have been developed recently and have not yet been published on the World Wide Web.

The simplest model

She presents a do-it-yourself grinder holder. It serves to make it easier to work with the tool and is necessarily made of metal or metal + textolite. Wooden model such a unit will not withstand the loads and will shatter into pieces.

The device itself consists of different-sized plates fastened together:

welding if the device is made of metal;
screws (bolts) if metal and textolite are used.

The first plate serves as a kind of mobile platform and is made of duralumin, aluminum or steel 2-3mm sheet 35*12 (15) cm. It can be made of textolite, but then you will have to take out a 5-6 mm piece.

The second plate represents the stop. It must be made from a 4 (or more) mm piece of steel 125 * 50 (60) mm. It bears the main load, so you should not take thin material to avoid injury.

On one half of the plate, make 3-4 holes with your own hands using a 4.2-4.5 mm drill to secure it to the platform, and in the middle of the second half - one with an 8 mm drill. Holes are also made in the platform itself and drilled with reverse side, for countersunk screws.

Instead of the second plate, you can use a regular 4 mm corner approximate sizes and drill it accordingly. Then the plate (angle) is screwed or welded to the main platform so that the cutting disk of the tool is 3-5 mm from the edge of the bed.

The corner is bent at 60° to the frame. The cutting power tool is secured to its upper part with a bolt and a lock nut, which is necessary to avoid turning the bolt during inevitable vibration during work. The device is assembled and ready for use.

Additional nodes for the device

First option

To make work easier and more precise cutting (along the line), the device is supplemented with two metal squares and two wooden blocks, the dimensions of which are:

30*30*420 mm;
55*30*80 mm;
27*30*35 mm;
120*60*25 mm respectively.

Measure 12 cm from the end of the long square and bend it with the letter “G”. Corresponding holes are drilled in it and in the main platform, which are drilled out for countersunk screws. Combine the square and the plate, place bars on it and screw it in with screws.

Advice: To make operation easier, install an additional handle

Second option

They use a homemade universal limiter-guide, which they make themselves from the following parts:

2 metal strips 75-100 cm;
1 square 30-70 cm;
2 roller units from drawers.

It goes like this:

The drawer guides are attached to the main platform.
Screw 2 strips on top, making sure that their ends are equidistant from the main plate.
A square is attached to the ends of the strips, bending down.

To fix the roller assemblies, use ordinary clamps or a special screw clamp. It consists of a metal plate 5-8 mm long with the main platform, 5-8 cm wide and 5-6 cm screw (bolt) M5-M8.

a recess or hole is drilled in the middle of the frame and a tap is used to make a thread for an M8-M10 screw about 10 cm long;
screw it in from below;
the retainer in the middle is “perforated” with a drill 0.5-1 mm larger than the caliber of the screw;
put it on the screw, placing it on the moving elements of the roller mechanism;
secure with a wing nut or regular nut.
This grinder machine can be used to cut large objects: doors, panels.

DIY cutting machine

For sawing small-sized parts, channels, angles, pipes, fittings, a homemade pendulum cutting machine is used. If you use the appropriate stones, you can use them to polish things, cut tiles, and ceramics.

The cutting machine is made by hand from the parts described below:

bed - made of thick metal and four angles:
racks for the rolling unit, made of the same metal;
a swinging mechanism on which the grinder is mounted;
a guide made from a piece of square;
handles (for convenience) and a lowering limiter for the swing unit.

The bed is a plate (metal at least 5 mm) with slots. Ordinary angles are welded or screwed as legs. If you don't have the appropriate piece, take several strips of thick metal and attach them to the corner legs. Then you won't have to make any cuts.

The racks are made of profile pipes, but it is easier to screw in rectangular metal plates 10 mm or larger, drill holes in them on the side and insert the swing unit on the axis. It is used as a long bolt with a nut and a locknut.

The swing unit is made from strips screwed together, or a blank is cut out of a sheet. At a distance of one third of the length, a 10 mm axle or a long bolt is fixed. At the rear, a smaller axle or ring for the return spring is strengthened. The handle and attachment point for the angle grinder are connected to the front

Advice: To avoid accidental injury, weld this assembly securely with your own hands/

The stop and guide stop are ordinary pieces of squares. The first one is welded from below to the swing unit. The emphasis is installed on the bed. A ring for the return spring is welded to the back.

But such a cutting machine is a little dangerous. You have to hold the part in it with one hand and press the handle with the other. For safe work either two people are needed (one holds the product, the second presses the handle) or the installation of a regular vice on the bed.

Cutting parts at an angle

With the design described above, it is impossible to perform other operations, for example, cutting a part at the desired angle or cutting a part to a certain size. Simple modifications will turn the cutting machine into a universal machine.

For cutting at an angle, you can use 2 types of devices:

Stationary – rigidly fixed.
Universal swivel device.

The first of them is easy to make from several ordinary squares. They are screwed onto the frame at a strictly defined angle to the cutting axis, serving as a kind of guides for the parts to be cut.

The second one is more difficult to make. It's actually a rotating device. It is usually made in the shape of a circle, but a square can also be used. It is fixed on the main frame. A hole with an M10 thread is made in it and a bolt is screwed in from below, which acts as an axis.

Put a circle on the bolt and tighten it with a nut with a stopper or a lock nut so that the gap is at least 0.5 mm. Some kind of clamp, corner (guide) or vice is installed on the circle. The latter option is preferable due to the versatility of the vice.

Three options have been developed for fixing the angle when turning:

Hole-locking.

A series of holes are made in the circle at commonly used angles. They install and drill another one directly through the disk in the frame (closer to the tool disk), the second through the hole opposite. Then use a tap to make an M8-M10 thread or leave it as is (for cotter pin inserts).

Device operation:

scrolling the disk, we combine the holes of the circle and the frame;
We tighten bolts (screws) with a wing head into them or insert a cotter pin.

Using special slots and clamps.

Has great potential. You can rotate it with your own hands to any angle 20° -160°. It differs from the first by the presence of special semicircular slots in the disk.

Using swivel or cap bars.

The versatility of the third option is obvious. It turns around 360 degrees. If necessary, you can completely rotate the circle with the vice and the cut piece around the axis several times.

The circle is clamped with ordinary metal strips. 4 screws (bolts) M8-M10 are screwed into the frame from below, secured (for reliability) with nuts. Two of them, located near the instrument, are considered main.

The strips are installed on the circle, making sure that the bolts fit into their holes.
Nuts are tightened onto the main screws. As soon as the nut reaches the bar, make another one or two turns and lock it with a lock nut.
The remaining two screws are screwed with wings.

Working with a clamp is like this. Twist the wings, freeing the slats. Remove them from the thread and move them apart. Unfold the circle, throw it on and clamp the slats. An extra turn of the nut ensures reliable clamping of the circle.