Sanding parquet. How we do it. Sanding parquet with your own hands - stages of work Sanding parquet with a sanding machine

Laying the parquet itself is just the first step to obtaining a beautiful floor covering. To achieve the desired result, you will need to carry out a number of works, such as leveling the surface, sanding and applying varnish. All the same measures are carried out in the case of restoration of old parquet.

What is the difference between sanding parquet and sanding?

Today, manufacturers offer a large selection of modern high-quality instruments. But before we begin to review the most popular equipment, it is necessary to clarify how grinding differs from sanding.

Sanding means manually sanding parquet using scrapers. Using this device, chips are removed.

Sanding is carried out using special parquet sanding machines. Depending on the settings and attachments, they sand at different depths and with different surface smoothness.

But even among professional builders, the first stage of parquet processing is usually called sanding, and all subsequent stages are called sanding. But there are no special machines for sanding; just some models of grinding machines can also perform primary processing.

Parquet sanding technology:

The first stage is primary scraping. Drum or drum sanders belt type Rough scraping of the parquet surface is performed.
The second stage is grinding. Belt sanders with finer-grained abrasives are used. Angle grinders are used for hard-to-reach places.
The third stage is finishing sanding. Using surface grinders, three-disc or single-disc, the parquet is given a perfectly flat surface.
Fourth stage. Application of varnish and protective gel.

Equipment for polishing parquet

Drum type parquet sanders

This is the most common and versatile tool. They carry out scraping and grinding work. The machine has a simple and reliable design. It is produced in two types grinding drums- centrifugal and rolling. Works with consumable abrasive materials from all manufacturers. Using a grinder drum type surface treatment is carried out taking into account the fibrous structure wooden parquet and can be performed in three directions.

Belt sanding machines for parquet

They are used for grinding and sanding large areas, and also for working with rough surfaces. The machine is designed in such a way that the center of gravity is low, which creates a tight fit to the surface being treated. In turn, this makes working with it easier because no additional effort is required. They come in different capacities, but the higher it is, the greater the amount of work that can be performed non-stop.

To increase the specificity of tasks, belt sanders are equipped with abrasive belt speed regulators. It can be easily removed independently, and the new one is installed no less reliably. Depending on the functions of the abrasive belt (for scraping or grinding), it has different widths and grain sizes. In some more expensive models automatic belt centering is already provided.

Angle grinders

They are designed to handle hard-to-reach places. The working element in a grinder is a grinding disc, which can be flat, disc, cup, polishing, etc. Modern models are equipped with many useful options: maintaining a constant speed, adjusting speed, protected from unintentional activation, and “soft start”.

The most popular manufacturers of power tools, whose quality remains the same high level for many years: Makita, Bosch, Black&Decker, Sparky, Metabo, Atlas Copco.

Disc machines for parquet sanding

Most often, surface grinders are used during finishing sanding of parquet. Three-disc and single-disc are used to treat the surface before tinting and for varnishing the parquet.

They are produced in different sizes and with a wide range of attachments. This is necessary for maximum maneuverability in hard-to-reach parts - near pipes, under radiators, etc. They are a good alternative to angle grinders.

The most popular brands of disk machines: Janser, Lagler, Bosch, Clarke, Atlas Сorso.

Vibratory grinders

They are of the surface grinding type. But thanks to their versatility, they can be used not only for fine grinding, but also for rough primary processing. They work on the principle of reciprocating movements. The greater the amplitude of vibration of the rectangular sole, the higher the speed of work. But the higher the speed, the lower the quality, so for finishing a low amplitude of movement is selected.

As consumables, rectangular abrasive sheets of different grain sizes, coated meshes and sanding cloths are used.

Random orbital sanders

They combine the operating principle of a grinding wheel and a vibrating machine. The result is a high-performance tool. Thanks to the combination of movement and vibration, excellent quality parquet processing is achieved.

Productivity is regulated by the diameter of the vibrating circle. But the smaller it is, the higher the quality of processing, and vice versa. The choice of speed is also important; higher speed is intended for rough grinding. When working with parquet, you need to choose a low speed. The varnish with which it is coated is very sensitive to heat and friction.

Leading positions among manufacturers of eccentric and vibration machines occupied by such companies as Bosch, DeWALT, Black & Decker, Metabo, Stomer.

Many grinding machines have a dust collection bag, which can significantly reduce the amount of dust during operation, but do not completely eliminate its occurrence.

The most popular cars were described above. But that’s not all that is used to polish parquet. In addition to them, there are several more types: delta grinder, straight grinder, pneumatic grinder, etc. They are universal and are used not only for processing wood, but also when working with concrete or metal surfaces.

How to sand parquet with your own hands

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding is carried out in several stages. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Preparing parquet for sanding

Before starting work, all furniture is removed from the premises. Now you can take a closer look parquet flooring completely, identifying all the shortcomings. For a high-quality result, you need to tap each parquet strip. If the sound is muffled, it means that it has come unstuck, and a void has formed underneath it. This is not difficult to fix; just drill a thin hole in it, pump in parquet glue through a construction syringe, press it down with a weight and let it dry.

The surface must be thoroughly washed and all screws and nails removed. Otherwise, you can quickly damage the abrasive sandpaper.

Tools and material for sanding parquet

To sand parquet with your own hands you will need:

parquet sanding machine with the possibility of sanding. The tool is expensive, but available if you rent it. It is used to treat the main area of the parquet;
manual belt or angle grinder for processing hard-to-reach places;
manual scraping. Useful for scraping parquet in very difficult to access places;
several strips of sandpaper. The lower the number, the coarser the grain of the skin. To work with parquet you will need No. 120,80,60,40;
wood putty, for filling cracks in parquet;
high-quality parquet varnish;
vacuum cleaner for cleaning and small improvised tools (screwdriver, scissors, rags, etc.)

Having prepared the room, material and tools, you can proceed directly to sanding the parquet.

Parquet scraping

For sanding you will need a belt sander with No. 40 abrasive paper. Using this machine, the main area of parquet is processed with a distance of approximately 10 cm from the wall. Manual belt or disk parquet sanding machines are used along the walls.

Tip: Do not use hand sanders to sand the entire floor area. This will lead to the formation of pits and other irregularities.

The purpose of this stage of work is to remove the old varnish coating and level the parquet surface. Sanding is done first along the room, and then across it. It is especially important to carefully monitor the condition of the abrasive paper. If it is heavily worn, it will burn the parquet, leaving dark spots. To check the scraped floor, the three-meter rule is used. Irregularities under it should not exceed 2 mm.

After rough sanding, scratches and nicks always remain on the floor, which is normal. They are removed by the following sandings with sandpaper No. 60, and then No. 80. Work is also carried out - along and across. The exception is when the parquet is laid parallel to the walls. In this case, it is sanded only along the laying line. And when laying in a herringbone pattern - diagonally. At this stage, the unevenness of the parquet should not exceed 1 mm.

Parquet putty

When the parquet is sanded with sandpaper No. 80, it is puttied. Putty for these works is selected based on texture and color similar to wood. Acrylic putty is often used on water based or mix the sawdust left during sanding with parquet varnish. Using a metal spatula, fill the gaps between the planks with the mixture.

Final sanding of parquet

After the putty has hardened, the parquet is sanded with finishing abrasive sandpaper No. 120. You will need to relieve the pressure of the sander on the floor using a special adjusting screw, which is equipped with all modern models.

The direction of grinding is exactly the same as in the previous stages of work. As a result, the parquet should be perfectly smooth, which is quite easy to check by running your hand over it. Now it is important to very carefully remove all dust using a powerful vacuum cleaner.

On average, all these parquet sanding processes take about 6 hours.

Varnishing sanded parquet

Before starting varnishing, all windows in the room are closed to avoid drafts. Optimal temperature for work is 22-24 degrees.

Parquet is varnished in several stages:

a primer is applied as the first layer;
then, three layers of varnish are applied alternately. Between each layer, grinding is done with a R-220 diamond mesh;
A glossy gel is used as a finishing coat to fix the varnish.

How to properly sand parquet is shown in more detail in the video.

How to choose parquet varnish

Parquet varnishes are divided according to the degree of gloss and wear resistance.

Matteness depends on the amount of passive filler in the varnish. By changing the proportions, glossy, semi-matte and matte varnishes. But this filler settles at the bottom, so the varnish is thoroughly mixed before application.

The wear resistance of the varnish is selected based on the functionality of the room in which the parquet is installed. For the home, varnishes with low or medium resistance are suitable; for more crowded places, choose ones with increased abrasion resistance.

Types of varnishes:

Polyurethane varnishes. They are also made from solvents, acrylic or urethane. Their advantages include high elasticity, heat resistance, good adhesive properties and ultraviolet resistance. They cope well with high loads and are not afraid household chemicals And high humidity. The downside is that polyurethane varnish glues the planks. And when moisture gets in during varnishing, it begins to foam.

Water-soluble varnishes. It's pretty new product. It hardens after the water evaporates, forming a film. They practically do not emit harmful chemicals, and are not inferior in strength to other types of varnishes. Suitable only for rooms with constant positive temperatures. The most wear-resistant is acrylic-polyurethane varnish, and acrylic varnish will need to be updated periodically.

Varnishes based on oil resins. These are urethane alkyd and alkyd varnishes, made from linseed or wood oil, which allows them to penetrate deeply into the wood. They do not glue parquet strips together, and the coating is non-slip. But they are toxic and take a long time to dry.
Acid-curing varnishes. They are made directly from varnish and hardener. It has the highest wear-resistant qualities and is undemanding to temperature and humidity. The disadvantages are a strong smell and strong gluing of the planks.

Sanding parquet without dust

The only option to update old parquet is to sand it, fill the cracks, sand it and varnish it. But many owners of parquet floors are in no hurry to restore it to its former beauty. And this is due to the prospect of dusty and noisy work. Indeed, wood dust, which is formed when removing the old coating, penetrates everywhere and eats into furniture and curtains.

But all this work can be done without dust. Majority modern models Parquet sanding machines are equipped with dust collectors. If we add to this the absence of drafts in the room, then dust will practically not fly away. For additional protection, a static film is used to cover the walls of the room in which the work is being done.

Grinders with powerful dust collectors and high-quality filters are very expensive and are only available to professional builders. If you have confidence in your abilities, you can contact one of the companies and rent a tool. It is especially important to use such machines for processing parquet floors made of valuable wood species - wenge or walnut. This is due to the fact that the dust of these wood species has coloring elements. Therefore, when it settles on furniture or walls, it can stain them, but it will be almost impossible to clean them.

Of course, the grinder will not be able to completely collect dust during operation, but most of it will still settle in the dust collectors. This means that they are excellent for restoring old parquet in already finished rooms.

Laying parquet is the first procedure on the way to obtaining a beautiful floor. In addition, a lot of work will need to be done, such as leveling, sanding and varnishing.

Sanding parquet with your own hands is, in principle, a simple procedure, but you will need to take a number of factors into account. In this article we will take a closer look at this procedure and talk about parquet sanding machines.

The difference between grinding and scraping

The scraping machine removes chips

Today there is a lot of equipment and tools for surface treatment. First, it is necessary to identify the main differences between scraping and grinding.

Sanding – manual sanding of parquet using scrapers. It is used to remove chips.

Grinding, in turn, is performed using special equipment. Depending on the tool settings, it can process a surface with different parameters.

Experts call the first stage of parquet finishing sanding, and further work is called sanding.

Keep in mind that there is no special equipment for sanding, just some grinding tools are sometimes used for sanding.

Parquet sanding technology

For grinding use nozzles with fine grains.

The grinding procedure consists of several stages. These include:

Looping. Using a drum or belt sander, sanding of parquet is performed.
Grinding. For this procedure, it is necessary to use grinding equipment with fine-grained attachments. In difficult to access areas, processing is carried out using angle grinders.
Final sanding. Using surface grinding equipment, a smooth surface is created.
Treatment with varnish and antiseptic.

Types of grinding machines

What is parquet sanded with? There are many types of grinding equipment. They differ in design, characteristics and, accordingly, price. Next, we will take a closer look at each type of sander and identify the strengths and weaknesses of the tool.

Drum sanders

A drum type parquet sander is the most common solution.

It can be used to perform both scraping and surface grinding. The design of the product is distinguished by its simplicity and reliability.

The delivery set includes two types of grinding drums - centrifugal and rolling.

Using such equipment, you can process wooden parquet in three directions.

It is easier to process large surfaces with a tape machine

This tool is used for processing large areas with rougher surfaces. Working with such equipment is quite simple, thanks to its well-thought-out design.

A belt sander can have different power levels, and the higher it is, the more surfaces can be processed without stopping.

The belt sander is equipped with a special abrasive belt speed regulator. It can be easily dismantled and a new one installed if necessary. High-end models use automatic belt centering.

A diagram of a belt sander can be seen below.

Angle grinders

Used for finishing hard-to-reach places. The main element in the design is the grinding disc. New models are equipped with the following functions: regulation of the speed of the device, protection against accidental activation and others.

There are quite a lot of manufacturers of such devices. The most famous are: Bosch, Sparky, Metabo and others.

Disk machines

This device is mainly used for finishing parquet Finishing is performed with a three-disc and single-disc device.

Models are available in different sizes and with different attachments. This allows for good maneuverability.

Such devices can be used as a replacement for angle grinders.

Vibrating machines

This device quite versatile

Such equipment is surface grinding. The versatility of the device will allow you to perform even rough primary finishing. The work is carried out with careful movements.

Consumables for such equipment are abrasive sheets with different degrees of grain, coated meshes and sanding cloths.

Eccentric machines

This device combines the operating principle of a grinding wheel and a vibrating machine. The result was quality tool, which will allow for perfect parquet processing.

The performance can be adjusted using the diameter of the vibrating circle. The higher its indicator, the better the quality of processing will be.

An important parameter is also the speed; the higher it is, the rougher the grinding will be. For parquet it is better to use the minimum speed indicator. The varnish that coats the surface of the parquet is extremely difficult to withstand high temperatures. For a detailed life hack on how to choose a grinder, watch this video:

Many devices are equipped with a dust collection bag, which can significantly reduce dirt, but not get rid of it.

Parquet sanding procedure

How to sand parquet? Sanding parquet with your own hands is a fairly long procedure that is carried out in stages.

Parquet preparation

Before work, you will need to remove the furniture from the room in advance. Then the parquet is carefully inspected for any defects. To provide high-quality processing surfaces, we recommend tapping each parquet strip.

If the sound is dull, it means that the strip has come unstuck and an empty space has formed under it. This can be easily fixed. You will need to drill a small hole and use a syringe to pump a small amount of glue into it. Then use a heavy object to press the bar down and let the substance dry.

The surface will need to be thoroughly washed and any screws or nails removed. Otherwise, you risk damaging the abrasive sandpaper.

Grinding Tools

Use the finest grain at the final stage

To process parquet yourself, you will need the following tools:

Parquet sander with the possibility of sanding. The device is quite expensive, but if necessary, you can rent it for a while. It will be used to process the main floor area.
Belt or corner device for working in difficult to reach areas.
Manual cycle. Used for scraping hard-to-reach areas.
Sandpaper. Keep in mind that the lower the number, the larger the grain size.
Wood putty. Useful for making holes.
High quality parquet varnish.
Vacuum cleaner for removing dust and other small dirt.

For such processing, it is recommended to use belt-type equipment with sandpaper No. 40.

Using such a tool, you can process the main part of the parquet, while the distance from the wall should be approximately 10 cm.

Along the walls it is necessary to use belt or disk machines.

Please note that it is highly not recommended to use hand sanders to finish the entire surface of the parquet. This can lead to uneven surfaces.

The main purpose of this treatment is to get rid of the old coating and level the floor. Grinding is first done along and then across.

It is extremely important to observe the skin. If it is heavily worn, dark stains will form on the parquet.

To check the floor you will need to use a special building code. Irregularities should not reach 2 mm.

putty

After sanding, it is necessary to putty. The solution is selected according to the texture and color of the coating. The most common option is a water-based acrylic mixture. A metal spatula will help to process the holes.

Final sanding

For final sanding, use 120 grit sandpaper.

After the putty mixture has hardened, finishing sanding is carried out with sandpaper No. 120. In this case, the pressure on the floor will need to be reduced. This can be done using a special screw on the equipment.

The grinding direction should be consistent with previous work. As a result, you will get smooth parquet. Next, you will need to get rid of the dust; for this, use a high-power vacuum cleaner. For detailed recommendations on sanding parquet, watch this video:

All these procedures will not take you more than 6 hours.

Varnishing of the treated coating

Varnish the coating at a warm temperature

Varnishing consists of the following procedures:

The primer acts as the first layer. It will significantly improve adhesion for further processing.
Afterwards three layers of varnish are applied. After each layer, grinding is carried out with a special diamond mesh.
The final coating is a glossy gel. It will help fix the varnish on the parquet.

At this point, the parquet sanding procedure is considered complete. As you can see, sanding the surface is quite simple.

The main thing is to choose the right tools.

If you are new to the construction business, it would be better to seek help from a professional team.

IN lately The use of natural building materials has become very fashionable, which makes us take a fresh look at the origins. And what could be more traditional and, of course, natural, thanwooden floor in a house or apartment? Wood can fit perfectly into any interior design, regardless of whether it is in the form of parquet or ordinary boards. Moreover, modern technologies make it possible to paint wood in any color, preserving its original texture.

And whatever the final result, the work always begins with grinding. Only after this can the surface be tinted and covered with a protective layer. In addition, both the new and the restored old floor will have to be sanded.

Unfortunately, when sanding wood, you won’t be able to use the usual means at hand. A special device is required (or better yet several), which is quite expensive. Of course, there is no point in buying this device for home decoration. Then what to do in such a situation?

There are two options:

rent equipment and carry out all the work yourself;
resort to the help of specialists who will carry out high-quality grinding, but will require a considerable amount of money for it.

It is quite obvious that the first option is more convenient. But to make sure of this, you need to familiarize yourself with the approximate cost of each option.

To find out how much it will costparquet sanding, you should first study the list of services offered. The fact is that companies involved in conducting repair work, always indicate what a particular cost consists of. But let’s not be unfounded, let’s look at everything using an example.

Cost of services of repair organizations.

Pre-treatment, sanding and three-layer varnishing - about 650 rubles. per m².
Separate grinding with a drum machine – 210 rubles. per m².
A similar procedure using surface grinding equipment costs 210 rubles. per m².
Separate putty – 90 rub. per m².
Separate matting – 90 rub. per m².
Additional varnishing – about 90 rubles. for each “unplanned” layer.
Applying gel to parquet – 90 rubles. for each layer.

Now let’s determine how much all this work will cost for 20 m². We will assume that the gel was applied in two additional layers, and the varnish in four. It turns out the following:

210x20 + 210x20 + 90x20 + 90x20 + 90x2x20 + 90x4x20 = 4200 + 4200 + 1800 + 1800 + 3600 + 7200 = 10,800 rub.

It turns out that the services of a repair company for grinding will cost approximately 10,800 rubles.

Now let's see how much similar work done by hand will cost.

Rent of a grinding machine – approximately 1200-2400 rubles. per day.
Renting a portable device – another 720 rubles. per day.
Abrasive material “number forty” – 210 rubles. per linear meter.
Abrasive material “number one hundred and twenty” – 165 rubles. per linear meter.
Putty – 3600 rub. for five liters.
Special varnish – 12,000–18,000 rubles. for ten liters. The varnish consumption is usually 100 g. per m².
Tinting – 3000 per liter. Approximate consumption is liter per m².
Other materials (brushes, roller, etc.) – another 4,800 rubles.

Let's see what happens.

2400 + 720 + 210x2 + 165x2 + 3600 + 12000 + 3000x2 + 4800 = 14,600 rub.

Of course, some materials (such as varnish or putty) will remain in significant quantities after work, and they can be used in the future. However, self-grinding will cost almost 4,000 rubles more than if it was done by specialists.

But if this is not a very strong argument for you and you still intenddo it all yourself, then check out step-by-step technology carrying out work.

What will be required at work?

Before you rent a car, you need to take care of everything necessary tools(Why would a grinding machine sit idle for paid hours?). Here is a list of everything you need:

Stage one. Preparation

Before you start sanding, you need to carefully prepare the wooden floor for this. To do this:

all furniture is removed from the room;
old nails are removed or recessed;
baseboards are dismantled;
the strength of fixation of all dies is checked (if reconstruction of the old parquet is planned).

Pay attention! Every modern grinding machine is equipped with special bag for dust. But this does not mean that there will be no dust at all - to prevent it from penetrating into neighboring rooms, you need to cover the doorways with a damp cloth.

Second stage. Surface treatment

First you needfill the sander with sandpaper. For the first pass, the coarsest abrasive is often used (often “number forty”). The first pass must be carried out diagonally, moving in the direction of the “grain” of the parquet.

The device has a special screw with which the pressure of the drum on the floor surface is adjusted. It is very important that the pressure is correctly adjusted before starting work, because if it is not enough, the quality of grinding will deteriorate significantly. If the pressure is too high, the engine will be subjected to greater stress. It is very easy to determine that the engine cannot cope: its speed decreases, the sound of the device changes.

Pay attention! The grinding machine consumes 2.5 kilowatts per hour. Therefore, you need to make sure that the electrical wiring and equipment in the building can withstand this load. Also, do not forget about the starting load that is created by the engine of the device.

As grinding progresses, the sandpaper needs to be changed, visually determining the degree of its wear. The engine of the device can only be turned on/off while driving. The fact is that if you stop a working device, then noticeable marks will remain on the floor covering, which will be extremely difficult to eliminate.

Grinding with coarse abrasive must be continued until the surface is completely leveled and the differences between the dies are leveled out. Each time the machine is moved for a new pass, it must be moved half the width of the drum.

Third stage. Grinding work

After completing the pre-treatment of the parquet, you should proceed directly to sanding it. On at this stage all defects resulting from preparation are eliminated. The surface of the material must be smoothed until the unevenness and roughness disappear completely. As a result, the parquet should be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

To do this, it is necessary to use sandpaper with a smaller grain size, gradually reducing the grain size. If the gaps between the dies were putty, then before starting sanding you should also remove the remaining putty.

Fourth stage. Treatment of hard-to-reach places

Actually, this can hardly be considered a separate step, since it must be carried out in parallel with grinding. To treat floors in corners, stairs and under heating radiators, it is advisable to use a portable grinding machine, which is also called the “boot”. Such a device will allow you to treat even the most difficult to reach places.

Another important point: it is recommended to carry out such grinding in stages, that is, the passage through the center of the room is completed → the corners are processed.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding. The final touch

For the last stage you need to use fine-grained sandpaper. It is used to remove minor imperfections remaining after previous surface treatment steps. It is characteristic that pressure drum in this case should be minimal. The sanding machine must be moved in the direction of the “grain” of the parquet.

Pay attention! To check the quality of this work, you just need to run your hand over the material - it should be smooth.

First you need to thoroughly vacuum the surface to ensure even application of the varnish. If you do not do this, then in the future dirt will be visible under the varnish layer.

Varnishing is perhaps the most important stage of sanding parquet, because if you do something wrong, you will have to carry out repeated pre-treatment (and sanding, of course).

The varnish should be applied in at least three layers, taking a four-hour drying break after each application. Waiting longer won't hurt—quite the opposite, in fact. You can apply a primer first. The varnish must be applied with a roller; the procedure should be performed quickly and immediately throughout the entire room (the fact is that the varnish dries very quickly). If hardening occurs unevenly, the entire procedure will have to be repeated again.

After the first layer has dried, the parquet needs to be sanded again to remove any raised lint. To do this, a special device must be used - it is called an angle grinder - and abrasive material “number one hundred” or “number one hundred twenty”. Then the parquet should be vacuumed again, as well as the walls and ceiling - it is likely that some of the dust has become electrified and stuck to them.

After this, the remaining layers of varnish are applied, after which the floor needs to be vacuumed once again.

As a conclusion

If you study all the available information about grinding work and have everything necessary equipment, then you can easilysand the parquet yourself. But if, after reading this material, you have any doubts about the advisability of such a step, we once again recommend that you seek help from specialists. After all, there is no better assistant for quality work than many years of experience.

Video – Sanding parquet

Particularly parquet. Although parquet is durable and unpretentious, periodically refreshing its surface does not hurt.

Tools for sanding parquet with your own hands

Hand grinding tools and equipment

The machine grinding method is the fastest and most effective, but too expensive. Therefore, if with in cash It’s difficult to rent equipment; you can solve the issue of floor scraping using a manual scraper.

On wooden handle This instrument is secured with a metal plate, sharpened on one side and serrated on the other. This makes it convenient to cut off a layer of old varnish, but your hand gets tired quickly, and the short handle of the cycle does not allow you to take a comfortable position for working. Therefore, it is better to carry out grinding in an automated way, using a manual scraper only in those corners that are difficult to process with a grinder.

Among the advantages of a manual cycle are the absence of dust and the ability to remove good layer wood from the surface. Another way without special costs sand the floor using an emery cloth. It is carefully cut to fit the leg and attached to shoe sole, which is used to wipe the floor. This is also quite labor-intensive, but quite acceptable.

Grinding machines - types, tasks

Full scraping is carried out in several stages and each of them requires a certain type of devices and equipment. Let's look at them:

PSHMBT - drum-type parquet sanding machine - is used for deep processing of any type of wooden surfaces. In the territory of the former USSR, such machines are produced in the Russian Federation and Ukraine. The device is equipped with a drum and a pump, which collects all waste generated during operation into a special collection bag. Domestic sanders have a significant drawback - the presence of rubber, which is glued to the drum part. If the abrasive is clamped weakly or the machine encounters a nail protruding from the floor, the rubber turns out to be the weakest point, which is damaged first. The cost of equipment is from $1,300 and above.
PShM – surface grinders equipped with 1 or 3 discs. The Germans are considered the leaders in the production of such machines; their Lagler Trio costs about 10 thousand dollars, and such expenses are justified. PShM is used for sanding floors made of solid boards, preparing the floor for tinting or tinting, interlayer polishing for varnishing, for applying oil. Typically, such equipment is purchased for professional activity construction and repair companies. Imported PSMs are capable of demonstrating filigree work in the process.
Boot - additional tool for sanding hard-to-reach areas. The boot-shaped attachment allows you to cycle wooden surface in corners, under radiators, along the edges around the perimeter. The unification of such machines allows the use of parts different manufacturers and change abrasive attachments. The boots are equipped with bags for collecting dust and waste. Such machines are produced both in the territory of the former USSR and in Germany.
An industrial dust collector is a heavy-duty piece of equipment that works on the principle of a vacuum cleaner. The surface after scraping is covered with a layer of dust that must be removed industrial machines, otherwise varnishing will become impossible. A layer of varnish or other tinting agent will not be able to spread evenly over untreated wood.

List of additional tools:

scissors for cutting emery cloth and wrenches for fixing abrasive materials on the drum;
sandpaper (used as a consumable material. Depending on the stage of sanding, you will need a cloth of varying degrees of grain size - from 60 to 120.);
putty (selected according to a color close to wood, or it can be made from a liquid component and sawdust the smallest fraction, scraping waste.);
varnish (oil) at the rate of 5 kg per ten square meters. We recommend paying attention to Fobro, Resident, LOBA, Flow and other manufacturers;
rollers and brushes for uniform coating of the surface with varnish (oil);
spatulas - preferably rubber, for covering the floor with putty;

The amount of consumables is calculated depending on the size of the room. Experts recommend making a reserve of about 10% of the calculated value.

Parquet sanding steps:

It is quite difficult to sand old parquet manually, but with the use of modern equipment this is a completely doable task. Even if you are going to resort to the help of professionals, understanding the order of work will allow you to control the process of their implementation more efficiently.

Preparation for sanding

First you need to assess the scope of work and, most importantly, its feasibility. After all, if the parquet can be characterized by the criteria indicated at the beginning of the article, then its renewal can only be done if it is completely replaced.

On preparatory stage The room is cleared of furniture and baseboards. Work is being carried out to strengthen the dies, eliminate squeaks, and replace individual components. The floor should be checked for any protruding nails or fasteners. Protruding elements should be recessed into the surface by 2-3 millimeters. The floor is vacuumed before major work.

Equipment selection

Depending on the area of the room and the depth of grinding, a grinding machine is selected. Please note that the weight of the equipment will be at least 70 kg. For work you need: a special suit, earplugs and a respirator.

Parquet scraping

Performed with doors closed and windows open. Abrasive paper is placed on the drum part, taking into account what type of paper is needed:

No. 16 – cleans the floor from paint or varnish;
No. 24-40 – for removing paint and surface wood;
No. 60 – for deep grinding.

Let's describe other important points:

The directions for grinding are from the far right corner to the lower left, and crosswise; further manipulations are carried out in a spiral from the center.
Attention! Manipulations with the sander should only be carried out along the grain of the wood. Exceptions can only be made for short-term rotations of the device.
Work should begin from the far wall, moving towards the most accessible areas. From dust collectors, waste can be transferred to a polyethylene bag.
Attention! The PShM can only be raised and lowered when it is turned on, otherwise there will be a height difference on the floor.
It is important to maintain uniform pressure on the surface so that the layer removed from the parquet is the same over the entire area. As the abrasive wears out, it should be removed and a fresh blade installed.
After 1 sanding, you need to use a “boot” and a 40-60 emery cloth to polish nooks and crannies and unsanded “spots”.
Sanding work is carried out until the floor surface is in perfect condition until it becomes uniform in level and color.
A surface grinder performs the final fine work – 3-4 times -, in during which unevenness, potholes and scratched areas are eliminated with abrasive from No. 60 to 100.
Cycled parquet is vacuumed industrially. Then treat the cracks with putty using a rubber spatula, if necessary.
The last step in the main work will be sanding over the putty using #100 sandpaper until perfectly smooth.
The final treatment of the floor, which is once again cleared of dust and dirt after sanding, is carried out using oil or varnish, applied in 3-4 layers with a drying period of 4 hours after each application. Another round of sanding may be needed after the first coat.

You can watch the whole process in this video:

Having learned useful information and having received comprehensive instructions on how to properly polish a portrait, you will be able to complete this work without resorting to the services of construction and repair organizations. This will reduce your costs and allow you to sand your floor in a cost-effective manner.

Parquet has been used as a floor covering for a long time. Having it in the house is not a cheap pleasure, but best material I can't find one for finishing the floor. It will last for decades if it is take proper care.

The maintenance process itself consists of two stages: sanding the parquet and covering it with a protective material, usually varnish. Grinding is not an easy procedure; it is performed mainly by professionals, but you can try and gradually do everything yourself.

Equipment

The main tool for sanding parquet is grinder.

It is presented on the market in several types, differing from each other in the working part:

drum type. The design uses two drums with abrasive material mounted on them;
tape It differs from the previous model in that it uses a fairly wide abrasive belt. This provides greater coverage of the grinding area;
disc or surface grinder. Typically used for sanding hard-to-reach areas (for example, under radiators) and for finishing floors. There are professional three-disc machines;
vibration This is a subtype of the disk model, but more universal. With its help you can carry out both rough and fine grinding;
eccentric Most modern look grinders that work quickly and efficiently due to a special design (displacement of the axis of rotation of the grinding body relative to the axis of the shaft);
corner This is a subtype of the disk model, which is used for processing hard-to-reach areas.

It should be noted that a grinding machine is expensive equipment. It is better not to purchase it for one-time use. Usually it is rented, fortunately this service is provided in many cities today. In addition to this apparatus, for sanding parquet you will need sandpaper, a vacuum cleaner, brushes and a roller.

Preparing the premises

First of all, the room must be cleared of furniture that is on the floor. Since there will be a lot of dust, it is advisable to cover everything that cannot be removed with film. Then the baseboards are removed. After which it is necessary to inspect the parquet floor itself for the strength of fastening of each block to floor base. If such defects are found, they need to be repaired.

Usually the die is removed (it can be replaced with a new one if the old one turns out to have large defects), and the base under it is cleaned. And then they are laid on the adhesive composition.

If repair operations have been carried out, then it is necessary to give time for the installed elements to stick well to the floor.

First stage

The grinder is loaded with sanding tape or a disk is mounted. For the first pass, that is, roughing, you will need coarse-grain sandpaper. Usually material number 40 is used.

Pay attention! The first pass is carried out along the wood fibers. This will ensure an even cut of the top layer without difficulty.

The important point is correct setting working part of the machine. Or rather, its degree of pressure against the parquet. To do this you need to use a clamping screw. Here it is important to find the golden mean: if you overextended it, you got overheating of the device’s engine and a thick cut of the top layer of the floor covering; if you didn’t press it, it reduced the quality of polishing the parquet.

Periodically you need to stop the machine to check the wear of the abrasive. Stopping can only be carried out when the device is moving; if the shutdown is carried out on non-moving equipment, then there is a high probability that a depression will appear on the floor where it stopped.

Sanding with coarse sandpaper should be carried out until the floor is completely level. You can move the machine for a new pass by half the width of the sanding drum.

Second stage

Before moving on to final grinding parquet, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the wooden dies. For this purpose, special acrylic-based putty solutions are used. After they have dried, you can proceed to the final treatment of the floor, which is based on the operations of smoothing out minor flaws remaining after the initial grinding.

To do this, you will have to change the abrasive material on the machine to a finer-grained one. Usually use number 120, and make the first pass, removing small defects. The surface of the parquet can be brought to maximum smoothness using sandpaper number 150-180. For household use This optimal sizes, there is no point in using smaller ones. In this case, the transition from larger grains to small ones must be carried out smoothly.

Sanding hard-to-reach areas

This operation cannot be considered a separate stage. Sanding hard-to-reach places on the parquet is carried out in the same way as the main surface of the floor. That is, first they use an abrasive with large grains, then putty them, and then last resort – finishing using fine-grained abrasive material.

It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of work performed. First, the main surface of the parquet is sanded, then hard-to-reach areas. If it is not possible to grind some areas with machines, then you will have to do everything manually. To do this, use a scraper for the first stage and sandpaper mounted on a grater or other device for final sanding.

Floor varnishing

The easiest way to check that a parquet floor is one hundred percent ready for varnishing is to run your palm over its surface. If the hand did not feel any flaws and felt the smoothness of the plane, then we can assume that the parquet is ready.

The next operation is dust removal, for which a regular vacuum cleaner is used. It should be noted that all models of modern grinding machines are equipped with bags for collecting dust. But small particles of wood will still find their way out of the gaps and crevices, so that a thin layer of them will eventually settle on the floor. We need to get rid of him.

Now about varnishing the parquet. This stage is not easy, because the varnish is applied in several layers. In this case, it is necessary that each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next one. This may take at least 4-5 hours. But the longer the varnish dries, the better. The stages of coverage are as follows:

primer treatment;
after it dries, it is necessary to grind it using a diamond mesh number 220;
applying two layers of varnish, each of which is also sanded;
The last layer should dry well. After which it is additionally treated with a special gel, which fixes the varnish.

The process of applying varnish is carried out using a roller, in hard to reach places use a brush. There are several requirements for carrying out the varnishing process. Windows and doors in the room must be closed and drafts must not be allowed. The optimal temperature for parquet varnishing is +22…25 ℃.

As for the choice of varnish, the market today offers several types, which are based on different raw materials: acrylic and urethane, linen and wood resins. The most environmentally friendly are water-soluble varnishes. Acid-curing and polyurethane varnishes are more durable.

It should be noted that resin-based varnishes are toxic and take a very long time to dry. Ideal option– water-soluble, but with a caveat: they can only be used in heated rooms.

When there is no point in sanding a parquet floor

There is no point in updating the coating only if it is badly damaged. Factors that make it impossible to sand parquet include:

flooding of the floor, due to which the wooden dies swelled and warped;
the parquet flooring has dried out to such a state that gaps larger than 5 mm have formed between them;
the floor is completely or partially covered with mold or fungi, it has been eaten away by wood-boring beetles;
large defects in the form of potholes, chips and cracks;
the parquet was worn out to such a state that the thickness of the tiles became less than 5 mm.

All these defects are the causes of improper or heavy use of the floor covering. Often the reasons are illiterate installation of the material and the use of low-quality parquet, for example from unseasoned wood.

Features of polishing parquet boards

It should immediately be noted that for grinding parquet board With your own hands, you should already have some experience in handling sanders. The board is covered with decorative wood veneer on top, and it is important not to rub it through. Sanding parquet boards is a gentle type of renovation, since a very thin layer of material is removed.

Pay attention! It is not recommended to sand the parquet board of a floating floor yourself, as this can lead to the locks between the dies coming loose or the drum slipping.

It is also not recommended to process material coated with special protective layers of wear-resistant varnish, patina, or tinting. Sanding will damage the protection and it will be impossible to restore it. A simple, natural-colored board is sanded in the same way as parquet, but even more carefully and with more precise adjustment of the thickness of the removal of the top layer.