Closed-type heating system in a private house: types and schemes of a closed-type heating system. Do-it-yourself home heating

Each dwelling in the conditions of the domestic climate needs an efficient heating system. For a private house, in which, as a rule, there is no central heating, there are quite a few options for its arrangement. Differing from each other in design, types of wiring and coolants, all these systems have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Classification of heating systems of a private house

First of all, heating systems differ in the type of coolant and are:

  • water, the most common and practical;
  • air, a variation of which is an open fire system (i.e. a classic fireplace);
  • electric, the most convenient to use.

In turn, water heating systems in a private house are classified according to the type of wiring and are single-pipe, collector and two-pipe. In addition, for them there is also a classification according to the energy carrier required for the operation of the heating device (gas, solid or liquid fuel, electricity), and according to the number of circuits (1 or 2). These systems are also divided by pipe material (copper, steel, polymers).

Water heating of a private house

Water heating in a private house is carried out using a closed circuit filled with circulating through it hot water. In this case, the heating device is the boiler, from which it is necessary to run pipes through the house to each radiator. Water passes through the batteries, gives off heat to the rooms and returns to the boiler. There it heats up again and enters the system. Antifreeze can also be used as a coolant.


Most often, the heating system consists of copper pipes, the most reliable, however, and the most expensive.

Steel is used less frequently, and almost never satisfies water heating from polymeric materials that do not tolerate temperature extremes.

In addition to the pipes, the circuits must be equipped with additional elements:

  • an expansion tank that collects excess liquid;
  • thermostats that control the temperature in front of the radiators;
  • a circulation pump that provides forced movement of fluid through pipelines;
  • shut-off and safety valves.

Subspecies

This type of system can be:

  • single-circuit, providing only air heating;
  • double-circuit, which also allows you to get hot water.


According to the principle of fluid movement in pipes, one-pipe, two-pipe and collector systems are distinguished. The first involves a sequential transition of the coolant from one battery to another. Its advantages include the simplicity of wiring, and the disadvantages are low efficiency, the impossibility of regulation and the difficulty of replacing individual elements.

Two-pipe

A two-pipe system is better, as it is more maintainable and provides minimal heat loss.


But the most convenient and efficient way to arrange a water heating circuit will turn out if you carry out a collector wiring that provides both a quick replacement of a worn-out element and simple temperature control, which, however, is more expensive.

Pros-cons

The main advantage of all water heating systems in a private house is the efficient transfer of heat to all serviced premises. And among the shortcomings can be called:


  • complexity and complexity of installation;
  • the need for regular maintenance of pipes and the boiler, which can be carried out both on your own and using the services of specialists.

The use of gas boilers

Boilers used in a water system can use different kinds fuel. The most common and convenient to use is gas-powered equipment - although it can only be installed if a central gas supply is connected to the house. In addition, among the disadvantages of gas boilers is the need for their regular monitoring by the relevant utilities.


But such a system has the following advantages over the others:

  1. Ease of installation and operation.
  2. High efficiency in the use of energy resources. On average, gas costs are 30-40% lower compared to using liquid fuels or electricity.
  3. Fast heating of rooms by the heat carrier. Within an hour, the temperature in rooms with a water heating system, in which the heat source is a gas boiler, will noticeably increase.
  4. Environmental friendliness of gas use.
  5. Ability to automate the process, including programming the required temperature and heating hot water.

In the absence of gas supply in a private house, it is necessary to use boilers that run on other types of fuel. For example, on wood, pellets or coal. Such a solid fuel boiler will be completely autonomous and not dependent on the supply of electricity or gas.


However, its environmental friendliness is much less compared to other options. And to store the energy carrier, an additional storage device, protected from moisture, will be required.

Heating with liquid fuel

It is correct to install liquid fuel equipment in buildings where the use of both gas and electricity is impossible or simply impractical (for example, the power grid cannot withstand such a powerful boiler). Its advantage can also be called independence from electricity and gas supply. Although the disadvantages of such boilers usually outweigh the advantages:


  • fuel requires a special fireproof tank;
  • the energy carrier is very expensive, and this option turns out to be the most unprofitable;
  • large volumes of combustion products are released.

Electric boilers

It is convenient and quite profitable to use electric boilers in water heating systems. It also ensures high automation of the process.


However, the rate of heating of the coolant by most electric boilers is not too high - and if more powerful equipment is installed, an overload of the electrical network may occur.

In addition, electricity is best used as both an energy carrier and a heat carrier, without the intermediary role of water.

Air system

The principle of operation of the air system is to heat the air directly next to the unit (usually a stove, boiler or fireplace). Further, hot air flows are forced (with the help of a ventilation system) or under the influence of gravity to spread throughout the house, providing it with heat. The disadvantages of the forced method are the cost of electricity, the gravitational method - the possibility of violating the air movement pattern due to open doors, drafts.


As a heat generator in a private house, a wood, gas or liquid fuel unit can be installed. The advantages of the system are relatively simple maintenance and maximum energy independence (especially in the case of gravitational heat propagation). At the same time, it also has disadvantages:

  • the need to properly design and conduct air ducts at the stage of building construction. It is almost impossible to build them into already built housing;
  • obligatory thermal insulation of air channels;
  • high installation cost, even if you do the work yourself.

Electric heating

It is possible to heat houses with electricity not only by installing a water system. It will be more correct and profitable to use electricity for direct heating of rooms. There are two options for electric heating devices:


  • electric convectors;
  • underfloor heating system;
  • infrared long-wave heaters.

Heating with electric convectors

Electric convectors are less profitable compared to water heating, which uses gas as an energy carrier. However, compared to other options, their application will be cost-effective.


In addition, such devices are much faster to install than water radiators, and no pipes are required - only wires and an electrical network capable of withstanding the required power.

"Warm floor"

The use of warm floors will allow you not to use home shoes even in the coldest season. Their advantage over convectors is more uniform heating of rooms.

However, “warm floors” cannot be made the main source of heat - but as an additional heating, it is better not to find an option.

Using infrared heaters

Almost the only disadvantages of using infrared radiation to heat a private house are the discomfort caused by a luminous panel and the low accuracy of power control. At the same time, among its advantages there are:


  • high heating rate;
  • an increase in the temperature not of the air, but of interior items;
  • full automation of the equipment operation process.

What is a person's home associated with? This is closeness to nature, and comfort, coziness, and, of course, warmth. And the warmth in our climatic zone is not always associated with the gentle sun that shines all year round. A resident of Russia would rather associate heat with a stove or a hot battery, since the cold season in our country lasts from a minimum of three to four months, up to the whole year.

In the modern world, stoves in the house are either a forced necessity, or a tribute to fashion, or a pleasant element of the interior. They have long lost the "battle" for efficiency to another heating - water. Therefore, in 90% of cases, it is chosen and implemented as the main heating. And in our article we are going to describe in detail how to make water heating with our own hands.

In any heating system there is a coolant - a substance that transfers heat from its source to consumers. In our article, we will consider only water as it, since it is the most profitable coolant. The idea of ​​using water for heat transfer was “peeped” by a person from Nature, since it is water that is the main heat carrier in it.

We can consider the most striking example of the natural transfer of heat with the help of water. This warm current of the Atlantic Ocean is known to us as the Gulf Stream. The Gulf Stream is gaining thermal energy in the Gulf of Mexico, where there is no shortage of solar energy. Moreover, the currents in this bay circulate in a circle, gaining even more heat, and then they still give way to colder and denser water that came from the depths and “break through” into the Atlantic Ocean, where they continue their movement along the east coast of North America.

The most efficient water heating in the world is the Gulf Stream

At first, the movement of the Gulf Stream water is mainly driven by the energy of the Earth's rotation, which at first “presses” the current towards North America. Then the Gulf Stream meets the cold Labrador Current, deviates to the east and flows towards Europe, carrying with it a huge amount of heat. This current washes Iceland, the British Isles, and the northern part of the Scandinavian Peninsula. The Kola Peninsula also receives a lot of heat, on which the ice-free ports of Murmansk and Severomorsk, located beyond the Arctic Circle, are located.

This effect of the warm current has raised the average annual temperature in European countries, which is typical for these latitudes, by an average of 10°C. Therefore, the climate there is milder, and the sea does not freeze, and the densely populated countries of this region can live comfortably in conditions of heating by a warm current. We can say that the Gulf Stream is a global heating system, the boiler of which is located in the Gulf of Mexico, the pipeline is in the Atlantic Ocean, and the radiators are in those countries whose coast is washed by the Gulf Stream.

According to scientists, the thermal power of the Gulf Stream is 1.4 * 10¹⁵ watts. This is a huge number! For example, the largest power plant in the world is Tuoketuo in China. Its capacity is 6600 MW. The Gulfstream surpasses it more than 212 thousand times (1.4*10¹⁵/6600*10⁶=212121). The Gulf Stream carries huge volumes of water - 50 million cubic meters water - this is the flow of water of this current per second. To understand how much this is, let's say that this is more than all the rivers in the world combined, 20 times.

Such an impressive transfer of heat from one region of the world to another, the Gulf Stream could only achieve due to the fact that water has a high specific heat . It takes 4200 Joules of energy to heat 1 kg of water by 1°C. It's a lot. For example, for air, the same figure is approximately 1000 Joules. It turns out that it is more difficult to heat water, but on the other hand, with the same mass, it can accumulate 4.2 times more energy than air. But, cooling down by 1 ° C, the water will give the environment exactly the same amount of energy.

By the way, excess heat in the Gulf of Mexico is transferred to both air and water vapor. Therefore, atmospheric fronts, including tornadoes, often form there. But although they move at high speed, they lose their energy after 200-300 km, very rarely it reaches 500 km. And the waters of the Gulf Stream, although flowing slowly and majestically, carry thermal energy over a distance of up to 10,000 km. And this is only due to the fact that water has a high specific heat capacity.

In addition to high heat capacity, water also has other useful qualities - it is absolutely safe in terms of toxicity to humans and all wildlife. Plus, it's also available. In addition, water is easy to transport through pipelines, and this does not require pipes of large diameters if forced circulation is applied. For example, wall-mounted boilers, which have a power of 35 kW, which is theoretically enough to heat 350 m² of living space, have a heating outlet with a diameter of only ¾ inch. But once again we note that this is only for forced circulation of the coolant. For natural circulation, the diameter of the heating water outlet from a parapet boiler at this capacity must be at least 1 ½ inches.

At what stage of construction or repair should water heating be done?

This is a very important issue, since the heating system should never be separate from the rest of the house or apartment. All work on the creation of water heating will concern the interior of the house, and its exterior, and other engineering systems. Therefore, it is better to combine these activities with repair or construction. But everything should start long before construction - during the design, which should take into account the following:

  • If you plan to install a floor-standing boiler and an indirect heating boiler, then you can’t do without a separate boiler room and it must be taken into account in the project. The boiler room must meet certain requirements, they can be found in our portal.

  • In addition to the boiler room, even at the design stage, the provisions of chimneys and ventilation with the required diameters are provided, which must also meet certain requirements.
  • At the design stage of the house, measures for warming are indicated. This will allow in advance, even before the start of construction, to calculate the heat loss of the house and, on the basis of this, find out the required boiler capacity, taking into account the need for hot water. It is also very desirable to decide in advance on a specific model of heating equipment.
  • Even at the design stage of the house, the location of the heating and water supply lines, the position of radiators, underfloor heating pipes and other elements of the system are determined. And it is also very desirable to already know which radiators will be used, which model. This will greatly facilitate further construction, interior decoration, and heating installation.

When it comes directly to the installation of a heating system in a house under construction, each of its elements should be installed exactly when it is most appropriate and most profitable. Here are some examples:

  • If it is planned to hide the heating mains and the supply pipes of the radiators in the floor screed and plaster, then these elements must be mounted after plastering, but before pouring the screed.
  • Underfloor heating pipes, of course, are laid before the floor screed is poured. This is usually accompanied by insulation with extruded polystyrene foam if the floor is on the ground or above unheated rooms.
  • Boiler equipment is best mounted after it has already been completed. Finishing work(if they are expected). All pipelines, manifolds, circulation pumps and other elements in the boiler room are always open, and this is easy to implement in a finished room. It is much more difficult, or even impossible, to finish the boiler room after the installation of all equipment.

The same principles apply to the heating equipment of an apartment in a new building. If we are talking about the reconstruction of the heating system, then there can be a lot of options. Will the reconstruction be associated with a major overhaul or not? What kind of work will be carried out during the repair? And there are many other issues that cannot be considered within the framework of one article. If open laying of water heating pipes is supposed, then it can be organized even after final finishing premises. This, however, requires highly qualified installers. Modern heating systems with forced circulation of the coolant involve the use of pipes of small diameters: ½ or ¾ inches, which do not spoil the interiors at all, and copper or stainless steel even decorate them.

Selecting the type of fuel for the water heating system

Boilers operating on completely different types of fuel can be used as a heat source in water heating systems:

  • Solid fuel boilers can use wood, coal, fuel briquettes, as well as special fuel pellets, which are made from peat and wood waste, to produce thermal energy. This type of boiler should be chosen only when the place where the house is built is not gasified and there is access to cheap solid fuel. With the current low gas price, solid fuel boilers in Russia are more of a forced measure than an economically justified one. In Europe, solid fuel boilers are popular only because of the high price of gas. Recently, they have become popular in the Baltics, and the demand in Ukraine for them is also growing. The main disadvantages of solid fuel boilers are low efficiency and the need for constant human participation during operation. They are little automated in terms of fuel loading and waste disposal, except for pellet boilers.

  • Oil-fired boilers are very reliable, have high efficiency, are easy to automate, but are unprofitable for economic reasons. First of all, because of the cost of diesel fuel, which you still need to have a considerable supply. Not everyone will like to live in a house where a large amount of diesel fuel is stored.

  • Electric boilers are the easiest to implement, best suited for automation, and have small dimensions. Everything seems to be fine, but the cost of heating with an electric water boiler is too high compared to a gas or even solid fuel boiler. But the use of electric boilers is appropriate when they are paired with gas or solid fuel and they maintain the temperature of the water in the system at the desired level during the cold season, preventing it from freezing.

  • Gas boilers are the best choice for today's realities, since gas has an acceptable and reasonable price. In addition, modern boilers have high level automation, ensure safety and, in addition to heating the coolant, can also heat hot water in a built-in heat exchanger designed only for this. Some models of boilers do not even require the construction of a separate chimney, as they are equipped with a closed combustion chamber and a coaxial chimney. Inner pipe such a chimney serves to release the products of gas combustion, and the external one - to blow in the outside air necessary for the combustion of gas. All this happens forcibly with the help of a fan built into the boiler.

Details about gas boilers, their types, characteristics and the right choice can be found in the article on our portal: "".

We will not consider promising and innovative eco-friendly heating systems using solar collectors or heat pumps, since this, unfortunately, is still a curiosity for Russia. As long as gas is cheap and there is no state program to subsidize alternative energy, there will be no impetus for development. So far, it is profitable to sell a lot of cheap gas, and judging by the reserves of this fuel in Russia, it will be profitable for many more years.

Open or closed water heating system?

This question is of fundamental importance, but we do not want readers to take a long time choosing which type to choose. Our answer is unequivocal - only a closed heating system. And we are ready to argue this choice.

  • In open heating systems, the expansion tank is installed in the high point on a straight line. Through this tank, the air that may be in the system can freely rise up and exit into the atmosphere. Water is added through the same tank, that is, they make a recharge. The coolant in such systems is not under excessive pressure and usually it circulates naturally - due to the difference in densities of heated and cooled water. Such systems require the use of pipes of increased diameters, compliance with their slopes in the supply and return lines. In addition, the constant "communication" of water with atmospheric air leads to a high content of dissolved oxygen, which initiates corrosion. Therefore, only cast iron radiators should be used in open systems. Such systems are yesterday and even the day before yesterday in heating. And for those people who modern houses XXI century set out to make an open heating system, should be at least ashamed.

  • In closed heating systems, water is in a closed circuit and under an overpressure of 0.8-3 bar. At the same time, the coolant does not evaporate and does not “communicate” with atmospheric oxygen, which minimizes corrosion of the internal steel parts of the system. This gives greater freedom in the choice of radiators. Excess air from the heating system is removed using automatic air vents and Mayevsky taps. In the vast majority of cases, the implementation of heating systems, water circulates in a closed circuit forcibly, using a circulation pump. But it is also possible to implement natural (gravitational) circulation if pipes of increased diameters are used and slopes are observed. Thermal expansion during heating of water in a closed system is compensated by the use of an expansion tank - an expansion tank, which must be selected individually.

Natural or forced circulation of water in the heating system?

This choice should always be made when planning a heating system. But again we want to simplify it and unambiguously choose a system with forced circulation. And that's why:

  • Systems with natural circulation require the use of pipes of increased diameter, as we have previously mentioned. In addition, radiators in such systems must have a large internal passage. And only cast-iron or terribly expensive steel tubular radiators can “boast” about this. Systems with natural circulation are inertial, since the coolant in them moves slowly and there is a lot of it.
  • Heating systems with forced circulation react very quickly to changing conditions and to automation commands, since the coolant of the desired temperature is very quickly "accelerated" through the system by the circulation pump. For mains of the heating system, ¾ inch pipes are most often enough, and ½ inch for connections to radiators. These pipes, if desired, are very easy to hide in building structures (floor screed or wall plaster). The coolant in such systems is much less and in good heating, make-up is required very rarely. Most modern boilers work only with forced circulation of the coolant, moreover, all wall-mounted boilers are equipped with circulation pumps and when it is inactive, they simply will not ignite the burner flame or turn on the heating element.

The "driving force" of modern heating systems is the circulation pump

These arguments are quite enough to make an unambiguous choice. Although, the supporters of natural circulation have only one argument left. The system with natural circulation can work when there is no power supply. To be honest, it is very difficult to imagine a modern person who in the 21st century will consciously choose housing for himself where there is no electricity at all or there are frequent problems with its uninterrupted supply. In the end, there are special uninterruptible power supplies for the operation of boilers and pumps, and for the home you can also purchase a compact gasoline or diesel generator, which will insure the owners in rare moments of outages during some work on the lines. Generators with a capacity of 1-2 kW can now be bought for 10-12 thousand rubles. This power is more than enough for the operation of heating equipment, security systems and lighting. Modern, already affordable, LED lamp consume so little electricity that a small part of the generator power will go to the share of lighting.

One-pipe water heating system or two-pipe?

Another choice must face those who intend to implement a heating system in their home. And in this matter we will try to take the side of two-pipe heating systems. And we can't do without arguments either.

  • Single-pipe systems assume that the coolant from the boiler supply goes through one pipe, which sequentially bypasses all the radiators of the circuit, and then returns to the boiler return line. Radiators in single-pipe systems can be connected in different ways: into a pipe “break” or through a bypass. If the radiator is connected to the "gap", then repair or replacement of only one radiator will require shutting down the system and draining the coolant. If the radiator is connected via a bypass, then it is possible to remove a single radiator without stopping the entire system. this is implemented in the system according to the “Leningradka” scheme, about which there is an article on our portal. The only advantage of single-pipe heating is the smaller number of pipes, which, according to the adherents of these systems, will save money. The disadvantages of single-pipe systems are too many to talk about in this article.

"Leningradka" is the limit of the evolutionary development of one-pipe systems

  • In two-pipe heating systems, two pipes coming directly from the boiler or collector are used to connect radiators. One pipe is strictly supply, and the other is strictly return. All radiators are connected in parallel to these two pipes, which allows you to control the flow of coolant through them independently of the others. This gives unlimited possibilities for adjustment, automation, the possibility of local repairs, expansion of the heating system. All the most famous manufacturers of equipment for heating systems always recommend the use of only two-pipe systems.

Now a little about the only advantage of single-pipe systems - in fewer pipes. If you “rewind” 25-30 years ago, then in that reality you can observe that only steel pipes were used in autonomous heating, and the circulation was only natural. Of course, all transactions steel pipes very laborious and require the skill of a master. Moreover, the mains were laid with a 1 ¼ inch or 1 ½ inch pipe. Of course, if we assume that someone in that reality suggested that those people use 2 times more pipes, then at best this daredevil would be verbally sent on an “exciting journey” in the direction below the waist.

It seems that the adherents of one-pipe systems remained to live in that time, absolutely not interested in new developments, new models of heating equipment, automation methods and other achievements that are designed, first of all, to make a person’s life comfortable and safe and at the same time save precious fuel . And the only argument for overspending pipes crumbles like a house of cards, if you just ask about the cost of those same pipes.

Now no one will do the wiring of heating systems with steel pipes. In most cases, polymer pipes are now used, which perfectly cope with their functions and have a service life that exceeds the average adult life expectancy of a person. For example, "one-pipe" decided to make the distribution of the heating system with a very high-quality fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene pipe Valtec with a diameter of 25 mm (corresponding to ¾ inch). And it took them 100 meters of pipe for the whole house. And they spent as much as 8,300 rubles on this, given that a meter costs 83 rubles. In order to implement a two-pipe system, you need to buy pipes about twice as much. Those are outrageous expenses! This is a disaster - to spend another 8300 rubles! You would think that radiators for the next few decades will not be able to be regulated independently of others. But you can proudly tell your children first, and then your grandchildren, how “wisely” money was saved.

With the current prices of pipes and the simplicity of their installation technologies, “religious” devotion to single-pipe systems cannot look anything but stupidity. Therefore, our unequivocal choice is a two-pipe heating system.

Which pipes to choose for a water heating system?

There can be no absolute unambiguity in this matter due to the fact that pipes in certain sections of the heating system may experience different temperature effects. For example, a hot water heating system in its radiator part is set to a temperature of 70°C in the supply and 50°C in the return. This mode, by the way, is recommended for most modern systems. In this part, polymer pipes made of polypropylene, metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene are quite applicable. With such a temperature regime, which can provide a pumping and mixing unit, the service life of pipes can be several tens of years.

If we take a water heated floor, then in it the temperature of the coolant at the supply rarely exceeds even 40 ° C, and at the return 35 ° C. This fact simply obliges the use of polymer pipes. Water of the required temperature for underfloor heating is also prepared by pumping and mixing units. And here the service life of polymer pipes will be very long.

If an indirect heating boiler is installed in the heating system, then it will be in the interests of the owners to heat the water in it as quickly as possible. This can only be achieved if the heat carrier from the boiler circulates with high temperature in the boiler heat exchanger. Modern gas and electric boilers They “give out” a coolant with a maximum temperature of 85-90 ° C, and solid fuel ones can also at a higher temperature, but their abilities are usually specially “strangled” by special automation to the desired 85-90 ° C. At this temperature, polymer pipes can serve properly, but their capabilities are already close to the limit. Accordingly, their service life is reduced. That is why the boiler heat exchanger is connected to the boiler or collector with steel or copper pipes that are not afraid of high temperatures.

If several circuits are allocated in the heating system for different purposes, then it is already difficult to do without the use of collectors or hydraulic separators (hydraulic arrows). Such separate circuits can be radiator heating, a warm water floor and an indirect heating boiler heat exchanger. Almost all boilers have the highest efficiency when the burner burns at full strength to heat the coolant to a high temperature. Therefore, heat engineers recommend supplying water from a boiler with a high temperature to collectors and hydraulic arrows. And only then pumping and mixing units provide water supply to their circuit with the desired temperature. Therefore, the entire piping of the boiler from its direct and reverse lines to the collectors (or hydraulic arrows) must be done metal pipes(copper or steel). Further, from collectors (or hydraulic arrows) to pumping and mixing units, installation is also preferably done with metal pipes, and further, when the coolant temperature is already no more than 70 ° C, you can safely switch to polymers.

So, what kind of pipes can be used in a water heating system?

  • Steel pipes - recommended for tying boilers, for the manufacture of collectors or hydraulic arrows from them. For the rest of the heating system, their use is impractical due to the price and laboriousness of the installation process.
  • Stainless pipes. It is prestigious, functional, but very expensive. But they couldn't be better suited for collectors or water guns.

  • Polypropylene pipes are now the most in demand. They are inexpensive, subject to temperature conditions, they serve for a very long time. Installation is very simple with an inexpensive tool, but a lot depends on the human factor. A system of the same pipes and fittings can be both flawless and monolithic, or completely unusable. In other words, the “foolproofness” of pipes is low. But with independent execution and strict observance of the installation technology, the choice in their favor will be one of the best.

  • It is better to use metal-plastic pipes only of high-quality, well-known manufacturers. Installation of heating should be carried out only with press fittings. All collet connections must be only on collectors or radiator fittings specially designed for this. The reliability of the system is highly dependent on the skill of the installer. There are cases of stratification of the pipe, which leads to a difficult flow of the coolant. Metal-plastic pipe fittings narrow the pipe passage. This impairs the hydraulic performance and leads to the deposition of contaminants.
  • Pipes of their cross-linked polyethylene should definitely be used as pipes for underfloor heating. Only them and no others. In addition, they can also be used in the wiring of heating systems (already after the mixing units). Connections with compression sleeve fittings do not reduce the passage of the pipe and have a high degree of "foolproof" during installation and reliability during operation. The only factor stopping their ubiquitous distribution is the high price of pipes and especially fittings.

More information about polymer pipes used in heating systems can be found in the article of our portal: "".

What radiators to choose for water heating?

When the question of heating radiators arises, then, probably, some readers will imagine that the main thing in this matter is design, so that the radiator is a harmonious part of the interior. And they are partly right, because modern choice of these thermal devices allows you to think about this issue too. If earlier there was no alternative to standard cast-iron "accordions" or steel "hedgehogs", now you can think about beauty, and not always to the detriment of your wallet. And this beauty will not contradict engineering science in any way.

So, what kind of radiators does the modern construction market offer us?

  • Cast iron radiators are a classic, everyone is used to them and, frankly, they are already a little tired. Tired of only one reason - their absolute lack of alternatives, which was observed during the Soviet era. But it is too early to throw them into the "dump of history", since cast-iron radiators are resistant to corrosion, reliable, have low hydraulic resistance and high heat transfer. Moreover, a very large proportion of the heat transfer of cast-iron radiators falls on comfortable radiant heat, and convection air heating, due to their small surface area, accounts for a smaller share. Cast iron radiators are assembled from separate sections and this is one of their disadvantages, since intersection gaskets can degrade over time. In addition, cast-iron radiators are heavy, fragile, inertial, they do not tolerate sudden changes in temperature. The design of standard cast-iron radiators is also standard and boring, which does not fit well into modern interiors.
  • Cast iron designer radiators are a very good technique of some manufacturers to increase the attractiveness of these heating devices. They are made of high quality cast iron using artistic casting, and this is truly an art accessible to few. Such radiators are actually very beautiful, they will undoubtedly become an interior decoration. From an engineering point of view, these are the same cast-iron radiators with their own advantages and disadvantages. They are bought by those people who have a fine artistic taste combined with a lot of money, since these radiators cost a lot.

  • Steel tubular radiators are a design of seamless steel pipes connected into a single whole by welding. Due to this, tubular radiators are very reliable, since they do not have separate sections. Among such radiators there are many very beautiful models exclusive design and not even standard white color, and the other: red, yellow, blue, gray and others. They can be of completely different sizes: from small 300 mm in height, to occupying the entire wall from floor to ceiling. The heat transfer of steel tubular radiators is also at its best, they are able to withstand pressure up to 15 atmospheres, they are easy to care for. Bathroom towel warmers are inherently also tubular steel radiators. The disadvantage of such heaters is the high price, so they are used quite rarely.

  • Steel panel radiators for autonomous water heating systems are one of the best choices. The heating element in such radiators is a rectangular panel consisting of two sheets of high-quality carbon steel welded together. Recesses are pre-stamped in these sheets, through which the coolant circulates in the future. There can be from one to three such panels in the radiator. Moreover, steel ribs of a U-shaped profile are also placed between the panels, which increase the heat transfer area. All panels and ribs are usually closed in a beautiful case. They produce such radiators of completely different heights and lengths, as well as with a different number of panels. This makes it easy to choose a radiator with the desired heat dissipation. Due to the fact that these radiators have a one-piece design, they are extremely reliable. The main part of the heat transfer occurs due to convection. Due to the small internal volume, they warm up very quickly. Steel panel radiators are quite acceptable.

  • Convectors are heating devices that are designed only to heat the air passing through them. Structurally, they represent a U-shaped steel or copper pipe, on which there are many copper or aluminum or steel plates. In new buildings of the times of the USSR, convectors were often installed by default, covered with steel screens. They had such a terrifying appearance that one could say: there was no “smell” of design at all. Everyone tried to quickly replace their not a little less terrible cast-iron radiators. Modern convectors no longer have a monstrous appearance, and some can even become an interior decoration. Convectors are usually installed where panoramic glazing takes place. A radiator standing next to a panoramic window to the floor will look very stupid, but a low convector will be just right. There are also models that can be built into the floor and placed not far from the thresholds of transparent doors. All convectors are placed in housings, they have an inlet for cold air and an outlet for heated air. From above the convector is closed by a decorative lattice.

  • Aluminum heating radiators can only be used in autonomous water systems. These radiators have a very attractive appearance, high heat dissipation, low weight and low price. The required power of aluminum radiators is gained by twisting the required number of individual sections. This is a disadvantage, since the joints may leak if assembled incorrectly. And also during operation, low-quality seals can leak over time. When choosing aluminum radiators, anodized appliances should be preferred. Even in closed autonomous water heating systems, aluminum can actively corrode, as it is very capricious to the ph-indicator of water. Threaded connections of aluminum radiators are also their weak point.
  • Bimetallic radiators from the appearance are almost impossible to distinguish from aluminum ones. They have the same body, but the coolant in them circulates through a steel tube that is inside aluminum. Accordingly, all threaded connections in bimetallic radiators are made of steel. Bimetal radiators are one of the best choices for hot water heating systems, as they combine the strength of steel and the thermal conductivity of aluminum, they have a beautiful appearance, excellent heat dissipation and long term services. The disadvantages of bimetallic radiators are typical for prefabricated structures - the presence of a large number of seals. Such radiators are significantly higher than aluminum and steel panel radiators, but regardless of this, they are recommended for use.

  • A warm baseboard is a relatively new trend in heating. It is a heating device, having a height of only 14 cm, which is mounted instead of the usual plinth along the perimeter of the room. Structurally, a warm plinth consists of two copper tubes, on which lamellas of the same metal are applied. In fact, it is a mini-convector. From above, this device is closed with a removable aluminum cover, which really makes it look like a plinth. There are special slots for the entry of cold air from below and the exit of heated air from above. According to manufacturers, this approach to organizing heating provides a high level of comfort, since rising from the plinth around the entire perimeter of the room warm air, heats the walls, and they, in turn, gently heat with radiant heat. Any judgments on such heating will be inappropriate for the time being, since there is still too little experience in operating such systems. And the cost of a warm baseboard scares off most potential buyers.

Expensive curiosity - warm plinth

From this variety of radiators, it is necessary to choose exactly those that will meet all the requirements. Our choice of thermal devices for autonomous water heating are steel panel or bimetallic radiators, in places where there is panoramic glazing - built-in convectors. Where tiles or porcelain tiles will be laid on the floor of the house - definitely a warm floor, but not as the main heating, but for comfort.

But it is not enough to choose the necessary radiators, they must also be selected according to their thermal power. We will consider this issue below, in the chapter on the design of water heating.

More detailed and detailed information about heating radiators can be obtained by reading thematic articles on our portal:

Water heating design

Sometimes the "ability" of some homeowners to avoid this under any pretense milestone just amazing. They are happy to transfer all design issues and the necessary engineering calculations to the installers, whose main calculation method is the formula - "I've done this a hundred times." And if these homeowners knew what heating design includes and tried to do it on their own at least once, then all questions would disappear immediately. Even special programs, which help to design engineering systems, will not be able to correctly make the necessary calculations if the user does not have the necessary set of knowledge.

Calculation of heat loss and selection of a boiler for water heating

The first thing that is done when designing heating systems is the calculation of heat loss. It helps to estimate how much a house or apartment can lose thermal energy if the necessary thermal regimes are observed in them. In this case, the worst case is taken into account, when the temperature "overboard" reaches its minimum for a particular climatic zone. That is, heat losses are calculated to the maximum - how much a building or room can theoretically lose when it is in worse conditions.

A good heating system, from the point of view of a domestic approach, is when the house is warm and the batteries are hot in severe frosts. And from an engineering point of view, good system heating must compensate for the maximum possible heat loss. If she can do it under the worst conditions, then under all others she will do it even more so.

The initial data for calculating heat loss is a rather impressive amount of information. In any project of heating systems, this calculation takes at least half of the labor expended. And in fact it is really difficult even for a specialist. But there are techniques that allow you to do this in a simplified way, but, nevertheless, the final result is very close to what will be obtained from an engineering calculation in accordance with all the rules. Considering that when choosing heating equipment they always make a margin for power, it is possible to fully use an approximate calculation. And we invite readers of our portal to use a convenient calculator. With its help, you can evaluate the heat loss of each room, and then the whole house. After that, you can select the heating equipment of the required power.

Room heat loss calculator

In order to calculate the heat loss of a room, it is necessary to have its plan. Such plans are always in the registration documents for the finished property or in the project documentation. But a plan alone won't be enough. We need a set of initial data, which we will now indicate.

  • Room area in square meters. It is always indicated on any plane.
  • Any room can either contact the external environment through one or more walls, or it can be an “enclave” in the middle of a house or apartment. Obviously, the greatest heat loss will occur through the outer walls. Therefore, you need to specify their number.
  • It is known that on the north side the sun will never heat the walls, and on the south side it will do it to the maximum. Other parts of the world will be somewhere between north and south. When calculating in the calculator, it is imperative to indicate the orientation to the cardinal points.
  • The position of the outer wall in relation to the direction of the wind also matters. For each area there are characteristic wind directions for each season. By collecting statistical information over a long period, so-called wind roses are made, which show which side of the world the winds blow most often at a particular time of the year. The location of the house relative to the wind rose is very important. If the wind blows into the wall, then it is leeward, and if from it, then it is windward. Wind roses for your region can be found on the Internet if you wish.
  • Each region is characterized by a level negative temperatures on the coldest day of the year. This information can also be found in reference data, SNiPs and on the Internet.
  • The external walls of the room may not be insulated, have an average degree of insulation and good. Be sure to select the desired item from the list in the calculator.
  • Any room has a certain ceiling height. Obviously, the larger it is, the larger the volume will be, the larger the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe outer walls will be. Heat loss from this will also be greater. Therefore, the height of the ceiling is always taken into account.
  • Under the floor there may be other heated or unheated rooms, as well as soil. The floor itself may or may not be insulated. This data is also taken into account in the calculator.
  • To calculate heat loss, you also need to know what is on top of the room. In the calculator, you need to select the desired item.
  • A lot of heat energy leaves the room through the windows. First of all, it depends on the design of the windows. The calculator also has this item.
  • How more windows- the greater the heat loss, so it is necessary to indicate their number.
  • The area of ​​the window must also be specified, as this also affects the heat balance of the building.
  • Doors are a kind of loophole through which heat strives to leave the room. It goes without saying that they mean doors leading to the street or to an open balcony. In the calculator, you need to specify their number.

The calculator can calculate the heat loss of only one room. Therefore, it will be very convenient for a house or apartment to make a pivot table in which to indicate the initial data and the result. It can be drawn on a piece of paper, or it can be implemented electronically. For example, in Microsoft Excel. Let's show an example of such a table.


on the plan
Room:
square,
ceiling height.
What is above and below
External walls:
amount,
orientation,
degree of warmth.
Window:
amount,
type of,
sizes.
Door to street or balcony.Required thermal power, kW
(including 15% operating reserve)
TOTAL 7.5 kW
3 Living room.
Area 14.1 m².
Ceiling - 2.9 m.
Bottom - insulated on the ground.
Above is a cold attic.
Two, east and south.
Windward.
High degree of thermal insulation.
Two windows,
PVC frames with single glazing.
Size 1200×900 mm.
No2.14 kW

Filling out such a table will not be difficult if you have a plan at hand and the owner has enough other information: ceiling height, degree of insulation, window openings and other data. In extreme cases, you can arm yourself with a tape measure and take the necessary measurements yourself.

The last column in the presented table will be the heat loss of the room only taking into account 15% of the operational reserve. Therefore, it is called the required thermal power. After the calculation in all rooms, the last column is summed up and the coveted figure is obtained - what power the heating boiler should be.

The calculation is carried out for each room separately.
Sequentially enter the requested values ​​or check desired options in the suggested lists.
Then click "Calculate the heat output for the room"

Specify the area of ​​the room, m²

100 watts per sq. m

Number of external walls

no one two three

External walls look at:

North, Northeast, East South, Southwest, West

The position of the outer wall relative to the winter "wind rose"

windward side leeward side parallel to the direction of the wind

The level of negative air temperatures in the region in the coldest week of the year

35 °С and below from - 30 °С to - 34 °С from - 25 °С to - 29 °С from - 20 °С to - 24 °С from - 15 °С to - 19 °С from - 10 °С up to - 14 °С not colder than - 10 °С

What is the degree of insulation of the outer walls?

External walls are not insulated Average degree of insulation External walls are well insulated

Ceiling height in the room

up to 2.7 m 2.8 ÷ 3.0 m 3.1 ÷ 3.5 m 3.6 ÷ 4.0 m over 4.1 m

What's on the bottom?

Cold floor on the ground or above an unheated room Insulated floor on the ground or above an unheated room Heated room is located below

What is on top?

Cold attic or unheated and uninsulated room Insulated attic or other room Heated room

Type of installed windows

Ordinary wooden frames with double glazing Windows with single (2 panes) double glazing Windows with double (3 panes) double glazing or argon filling

Number of windows in the room

Window height, m

Window width, m

Doors facing the street or balcony:

If an indirect heating boiler is used to prepare hot water, then 30% of the power reserve must be added to the required boiler output. This is necessary so that during the heating of water in the boiler there are no "failures" in heating. The boiler is chosen with a power not lower than the calculated one. For example, calculations showed the required boiler power to compensate for heat losses of 7.5 kW. To prepare water in an indirect heating boiler, add another 30%: 7.5 kW * 1.3 \u003d 9.75 kW. From the model range of preferred boilers, you must choose the one whose power will be the closest in the direction of increase. If it is more than a few kilowatts, then this is not a problem at all. Firstly, “excessive” power will be very useful when preparing hot water, and, secondly, most modern boilers have either a two-stage burner or a modulated one - when gas is supplied depending on the temperature of the coolant.

Selection of heating radiators

Based on the calculation of heat loss, which we already know how to make, it is possible to select radiators for each of the premises. The initial data for this are just heat losses plus 15% of the operational reserve. To begin with, we note exactly where and how the radiators should be located.

  • Radiators should be installed where the greatest heat loss occurs. First of all, these are windows, no matter how energy-saving they are. The radiator under the window organizes a thermal curtain of heated air, which prevents cold air from “draining” down to the floor.
  • Under the window, the radiator is placed strictly in the middle of the window opening. Only this way and nothing else.
  • The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the radiator should be 8-12 cm, and from the top edge to the window sill - 10-12 cm. This will allow cold air to freely flow down and warm air to exit from above. In addition, such a distance is necessary for cleaning.

  • There is an unspoken rule - the radiator should occupy at least 70-75% of the width of the window opening. Then the thermal curtain will be extended to the entire area of ​​the window. But here it is necessary to make a reservation - when choosing the number of sections of a cast-iron, aluminum or bimetallic radiator, or the width of a panel one, first of all, the heat output of the radiator should be taken into account, and only then the "filling" of the window opening. The fact is that the usual cast-iron radiators lose much in terms of heat transfer to bimetallic, aluminum or steel panel ones, and the old-fashioned approach - the more sections, the better - may no longer work. The room may be too hot. It happens that to cover the window opening by 70% it is advisable to use radiators with a lower mounting height.
  • It is best to install built-in convectors near panoramic windows and doors. Near front door a convector is also desirable, but its grate can be very dirty from street shoes. Therefore, in the entrance vestibules, a radiator is placed on the side of the door.

  • If the room has a long outer wall oriented to the north, and it is also leeward, then the radiator must be installed near it, regardless of whether there are window openings or not.
  • Any decorative designer screens on radiators can be safely classified as absolute evil. If this is required by the designer, then you should drive him out. All artificial barriers greatly reduce heat transfer.

Now we will tell you how to choose a radiator for thermal power. First you need to evaluate the room and make some adjustments for the correct choice of radiator power.

  • If there is 1 window and 2 external walls in the room, then the radiator power should be chosen 20% more than the heat loss.
  • If the room has 2 external walls and 2 windows, then the radiator power should be increased by 30%.
  • If the window faces north or northeast, then the radiator power is increased by 10%.
  • If the radiator is located in an open niche, then its power is increased by 5%.
  • If it was not possible to drive the designer out, and he insisted on a screen with horizontal slots, then the radiator power should be 15-20% higher.
Selection of panel radiators

Each radiator model is characterized by its thermal power, which is always indicated in its passport. Thermal power is the amount of thermal energy in watts that a heating radiator is able to transfer per unit of time. In heat engineering, such a unit is one hour. A very important indicator when specifying the heat output is the temperature of the supplied water - tV, outlet water temperature t R and room temperature t L it is on them that the thermal power depends. For example, for panel steel radiators of a very well-known German manufacturer Kermi, the passport indicates the power of radiators at tV=75°c,t R =65°C and t L =20°C. Based on these values, the indicator is calculated T=(t V +t R)/2 —t L , which is called temperature difference , however, among heat engineers, the name is short and succinct - delta . As can be seen from the formula, delta is the difference between the average water temperature in the radiator and the temperature in the heated room.

Prices for ELSEN panel radiators

Steel panel radiator ELSEN

In the passports of most modern radiators, their thermal power is indicated at two delta values: T=70°C(t V =95°c,t R =85°C andt L =20°C) and ∆T=50°C(tV=75°c,t R =65°C andt L =20°C). Let's give examples. In the description of Kermi steel panel radiators, there is a table that helps you choose a radiator according to the required heat output at T=50°C. This table is presented in the figure (the picture is clickable, click on it to enlarge).

At the top of the table, the mounting height of the radiators is indicated; it can be 300, 400, 500, 600 and 900 mm. It is usually chosen depending on how much space there is under the windowsill. Further, in the names of the columns there are "mysterious" types of radiators. As you can see, Kermi has them in 10, 11, 12, 22 and 33. What does this mean? We look at another picture from the Kermi catalog.

The table shows that the radiators differ in the number of panels (rows) and convectors. Obviously, the more rows (panels) there are, the more “chubby” the radiator will be. This, in dry engineering language, means an increase in the installation width. The X2 inside icon means Kermi's patented technology for connecting panels in series, and not parallel, as is customary in most radiators of this type. Such an innovative approach makes it possible to "squeeze" more thermal energy out of the coolant, sequentially taking it first in one panel, and then in others. This, according to Kermi experts, leads to savings of up to 11% of energy resources. For other manufacturers of panel radiators, the classification may vary slightly. This is always indicated in the passport, catalogs and technical documentation published on official websites. If the manufacturer did not even bother to make a multilingual site, then you should not buy anything from him.

We return to the previous table and see what the rows in it mean. This is nothing more than the installation length of the radiators that are in the Kermi range. It can be seen that it can be from 400 to 3000 mm. The temperature regime is indicated next to the length. For this whole table T=50°C(tV=75°c,t R =65°C andt L =20°C). The cells of the table themselves indicate the thermal power of the radiator in watts, which corresponds to a certain mounting height, length and type of radiator design.

How to use this table and choose the right radiator? Let's take an example. Let's say there is a room with an estimated heat loss of 2.5 kW. It has two windows: one with an opening width of 150 cm faces north, and the other 100 cm wide faces west. Radiators, of course, will be installed under the windows. But how to distribute the power of 2.5 kW between two windows? Very simple - the radiator power should be proportional to the width of the opening. Let's remember mathematics elementary school and solve a simple equation. First, we denote the power of the smaller radiator as X, and then we find out how many times the power of the second should be greater. To do this, we divide the large width of the window opening by the smaller one: 150cm/100cm=1.5, - that is, one and a half times the power of the radiator with an opening of 150 cm should be more. Now we make an elementary equation: X + 1.5*X = 2.5 kW. From here we find 2,5* X = 2.5 kW, which means X = 1 kW. It turns out that the power of a radiator installed under a window with an opening width of 100 cm should be 1 kW, and another 1.5 kW. Everything is very simple! But the final result needs to be adjusted, since this room has 2 external walls and 2 windows. We recall the material covered and increase the heat output of the radiator by 30%: the first window 1 kW*1.3 = 1.3 kW, and the second 1.5 kW*1.3 = 1.95 kW. Now we still need to additionally take into account that the second window faces north, this obliges us to “throw” 10% more: 1.95 kW*1.1 = 2.145 kW. It turns out that one radiator should be with a thermal power of 1.3 kW, and the second - 2.145 kW.

Now we return to the table for selecting radiators by thermal power. In it, you need to choose the nearest power values ​​for each of the radiators, which should not be less than the calculated ones. Let's designate these values ​​for the first radiator in blue, and for the second in red. The table is enlarged after a click.

Not all radiators that are highlighted in the table will be suitable for these specific conditions. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the window sills. Let's say it is 75 cm from the floor. Radiators with an installation height of 500 mm fit perfectly into the space between the window sill and the floor. for a window with an opening of 100 cm, only those radiators are suitable, the length of which will be less than the width of the opening. One cannot but agree that a radiator that is wider than a window will look ridiculous. It turns out that a radiator with a mounting height of 500 mm and a length of 900 mm, type 22, or a radiator with the same height, a length of 600 mm, type 33, is suitable. it will not provide a good thermal curtain. The unequivocal choice for the first is type 22, height 500 mm, length 900 mm.

We will select a second radiator for a window with an opening of 150 cm. Naturally, a radiator with the same height should be selected, since the height of the window sills in the room is the same. Then there will be no dissonance in the interior, which can be introduced by radiators of different heights. We immediately discard all models that are wider than the window and there are two radiators left: type 22 with a width of 1400 mm, and type 33 with a width of 1000 mm. The second radiator does not cover the opening by 70%, since 1000 mm/1500 mm=0.667≈67%. The choice is clear - type 22, installation height 500 mm, installation length 1400 mm.

It turns out that in one room there will be two radiators of the same mounting height and of the same type. This is very good, as it will look harmonious. If, for example, one radiator is type 22, and the second is type 33, then the difference will be immediately visible. In the vast majority of cases, for windows with standard height type 22 radiators are suitable for window sills of 70-75 cm. Type 33 radiators are most often used when the height of the window sills is 50 cm. Then type 33 "puffs" with a mounting height of 300 mm look very good.

Readers may have a quite reasonable question - what if the temperature difference (delta) in the heating system is different? After all, this will affect the thermal power of the radiator? The answer is unequivocal - of course it will. The lower the indicator T, topics less power the radiator can give out. How then to be? How to choose a radiator that will compensate for heat loss at a different temperature regime?

First of all, it should be noted that the heating system is calculated so that even in the coldest five-day period of the year it can compensate for heat losses when they are maximum. When the temperature in the street is above the theoretically possible minimum, then the heat loss decreases and the thermal regime that is taken as the reference will be absolutely unnecessary. In the Kermi radiator power selection table, the reference mode is ∆T=50°C at t V =75°C, t R =65°C and t L =20°C . The average heatsink temperature of 70°C feels tactile like very hot batteries that you can't hold your hand on. And you will only need such a regime for a few days a year.

Therefore, on days warmer than the theoretical minimum, the heating should work in a more gentle mode, and it works in it most of the time. To ensure this mode, several methods are resorted to:

  • A special thermostatic valve is installed on the radiators, which, depending on the air temperature in the room, opens or closes the coolant flow to the radiator. Such valves are recommended in two-pipe heating systems. The temperature at which the valve will close can be adjusted using a special rotary knob with a printed temperature scale. The coolant is supplied at this reference temperature, and the valve “decides” to let it through the radiator or not.
  • Installed in one or more rooms electronic thermostats that track temperature. When it reaches the desired value, the thermostat gives a command to stop the boiler or pump of a separate circuit. When the temperature drops, the thermostat sends a command to start. These smart devices are also made programmable in order to set some temperature scenarios on them by time of day or by day of the week. Modern electronic thermostats can still control air conditioners in the summer.

  • You can also reduce the heat transfer of radiators by lowering the temperature of the coolant. This can be done manually on the heating boiler, which necessarily has a temperature control.
  • If the heating is performed by several independent circuits, each with its own pumping and mixing unit, then the temperature of the heat carrier can be reduced by adjusting the thermomixing valve.
  • Some models of modern boilers are equipped with weather-dependent automation, which reacts to changes in the air temperature outside and, in accordance with this, according to a certain algorithm, changes the temperature of the coolant at the outlet of the boiler or controls other elements of the heating system.

A combination of all the described methods can also be used to reduce or increase the power delivered by the heating system. Each reputable manufacturer of equipment for heating systems necessarily has in its assortment various smart devices that allow you to automate heating as much as possible. Such “things” include electronic thermostatic radiator heads, and servo drives for thermal mixing valves, and programmable thermostats combined into one system using a central computer responsible for heating. There are even functions when the heating system sends the owner a full report on the modes in the form of an SMS message. Such systems can be controlled not only from your home, but also from almost anywhere. globe, Where can I get access to the Internet. And there are people who promote the concept of a "smart" home and make the heating system also "smart", sparing no money for it. But the reality is that most adequate people, after getting acquainted with the price list for these “smart” things, prefer that their house continue to be “stupid”.

Selection of panel radiators for low-temperature heating systems

Currently, the concept of low-temperature heating is being actively promoted, which involves supplying the coolant not with the usual temperature difference ∆T=50°C or ∆T=70°C, but with much less. Typically, the following mode is used as a standard for low-temperature systems: tV=55°c,t R =45°C and t L =20°C. temperature difference will be T = (55+45)/2-20 = 30°C. This approach has clear benefits in terms of fuel economy and increased safety of heating systems. In addition, low-temperature systems still have quite significant advantages:

  • Low-temperature heating is more comfortable; it does not lead to dehumidification of the air in the room.
  • Low-temperature heating does not lead to powerful convection currents of heated air, along with which a large amount of dust rises.
  • Low temperature heating is much easier to regulate as the temperature difference between the radiator and the room air is lower. In other words, the lower the heat head (delta), the easier it is to adjust the heating system.
  • In low-temperature heating systems, the possibilities of heat accumulators are better realized. With them, even solid fuel boilers can be used in heating systems, which, during combustion, accumulate thermal energy in a heat accumulator, and then after burning the fuel, it gives off heat to the system for a long time. High-temperature heating "empties" the heat accumulator very quickly. You can read more about these devices on our website.

  • Economical and high-tech heat generators in the form of condensing boilers and heat pumps can only realize their full potential in low-temperature heating systems.
  • If necessary, on days of extreme frost, the heat transfer of low-temperature heating systems is very easy to increase by increasing the temperature of the coolant at the outlet of the boiler by several degrees.

The concept of low temperature heating is very well stated in one very good expression that is common among heating engineers: "It is better to have a large and warm radiator than a small and hot one."

by the most the best place where low-temperature heating can be implemented is, of course, a warm water floor. This type of heating, regardless of the opinion of skeptics, has long been operated in the countries of the Scandinavian Peninsula, many years of experience have clearly shown the effectiveness and efficiency of such systems. The topic of warm water floors is very extensive and will not be considered within the framework of this article. But on our portal there are articles that cover this issue in detail:

In addition, in terms of low-temperature heating, the German company Rehau is actively promoting the concept of heating with warm walls, which has already been tested on many objects and has also shown its effectiveness. But this is also a vast topic that requires separate study. And, although there are no articles on this topic on our portal yet, we assure readers that they will appear in the near future.

Of course, radiators with low-temperature heating will have an actual heat output less than with a standard delta of ∆T = 50°C. Therefore, in order to compensate for this, it is necessary to choose more powerful devices. In addition to the flow and return temperatures of the coolant, someone will want to raise the temperature in some rooms from the standard 20°C to, for example, 22°C or 24°C. From such a step, the delta will become even smaller and an even more powerful radiator will be required. It is clear that radiators rated for ∆T = 50°C will not work. Adjustments will be needed, but what exactly?

For recalculation, there is a special technique that uses a logarithmic dependence. The formulas are quite complicated for self-calculation, so experts use a table of correction factors that are given for various values ​​​​of the coolant supply temperature t V , return temperature t R , and room temperature t L . We invite readers to familiarize themselves with such a table provided by Kermi. We want to note right away that this table is suitable for absolutely all radiators, absolutely all manufacturers, and any: steel panel, steel tubular, cast iron, aluminum, and bimetallic. The table can be enlarged.

Using this table is very simple: in the left column, the supply temperature is selected, in the next, the return temperature, and then in the row, the column corresponding to the room temperature is selected. For example, the cells in the table are highlighted in gray, which correspond to the reference values ​​at ∆T=50°C (t V =75°C, t R =65°C and t L =20°C). In this case, the conversion factor equal to one, which proves that the specified mode is the reference one.

As an example, the cells in the table are highlighted in black, showing the choice of a correction factor for the low-temperature mode t V =55°C, t R =45°C and t L =20°C. It can be seen that for such conditions the correction factor is equal to F=1.96. How to apply it? Consider again the example discussed earlier. Then we found out that the power of radiators for those conditions should be: for a window with an opening of 100 cm - 1.3 kW, and for a window with an opening of 150 cm - 2.145 kW. To find out which radiators should be used for low-temperature heating, it is necessary to multiply their standard power at ∆T=50°C by the correction factor F. The power of the first radiator is Φ₁ = 1300 W * 1.96 = 2548 W, and the power of the second is Φ₂ = 2145 W * 1 .96 = 4204 W. Comfortable low temperatures oblige the use of radiators, the standard power at ∆T=50°C is almost twice as much. Let's go back to the power radiator selection table and select those models with a mounting height of 500 mm that will provide 2548 W and 4204 W of thermal power at ∆T=50°C, and in fact at the mode t V =55°C, t R =45° C and t L =20°C and ∆T=30°C, they will output 1300W and 2145W. Traditionally, we will highlight suitable radiators according to the required power for the first window in blue, and for the second in red.

Now let's look at the width of these radiators. For the first window with an opening width of 1000 mm (blue), it is 2300 mm for a type 12 radiator, 1800 mm for a type 33 radiator and 1200 mm for a type 33 radiator. For such an opening width, this is too much. Now let's look at the second window and the radiators selected for it. Two models are available for this installation height: type 22 with a width of 3000 mm and type 33 with a width of 2000 mm. Too much too.

What can be done in this case? You can choose radiators with maximum heat output (type 33) whose width does not exceed the width of the window opening. Let's choose these models from the same table, which is quite boring already.

Two models have been selected - 900 mm and 1400 mm wide. These radiators will perfectly fit the window sill space together with shut-off and control valves. But their total power will be at low-temperature mode Φ ∑ = 1972 W + 3076 W = 5048 W, but in fact Φ ∑ = 2548 W + 4204 W = 6752 W is required. This missing power of 6752 W - 5048 W = 1704 W must be somehow compensated. How to do it? The first way is to install an additional radiator along outer wall(especially oriented to the north or northeast). You can also select it from the table. In this case, the adjustment factor should not be used, since it has already been applied earlier. A specific radiator is selected already in place, including how it fits into the interior.

The second method has long been used by smart and prudent residents of the Scandinavian countries. When building new houses, underfloor heating is not done as an option or a luxury item, but is provided in advance and by default. Naturally, the warm floor contributes to the overall heating system. It is unlikely that a warm floor will be able to fully satisfy the need for the necessary heat in a cold climate, and this limitation is largely due to the fact that its temperature should not exceed 27 ° C. AT real life about 40-70 W can be “removed” from 1 m² of underfloor heating, which will obviously not be enough to make up for all heat losses, especially in severe frosts. Therefore, a warm floor in a temperate and cold climate is always supported by radiators, which, if necessary, are connected and bring the temperature in the room to the desired one. Suppose, in the previously described example, the area big room in the house is 30 m², and the warm floor gives 60 W / m². We consider the "contribution" of a warm floor to space heating: 60 W / m² * 30 m² \u003d 1800 W. To meet the heat demand for low-temperature heating, Φ ∑ =6752 W is required. Let's calculate how much remains for the share of radiators: Φ rad = 6752 W - 1800 W = 4952 W. We calculate how much power should fall on each of the radiators, we use the same technique: 2.5 * X = 4952 W, hence the thermal power of the smaller radiator 4952 / 2.5 = 1980.8 W, and the larger one 1.5 * 1980.8 = 2971.2 W. With such indicators of the required power, you can easily select from the table those models of radiators that will provide the necessary compensation for heat loss and harmoniously fit into the window sill space. We leave the choice to readers, as we hope that three examples of using the table are enough to do it yourself. But let's give a little hint - type 33 and a mounting height of 500 mm are suitable for each of the radiators.

There are no walls yet, but there are already floor heating pipes! What is a curiosity for Russians, for Swedes is a common occurrence

A low-temperature water heating system only with the help of radiators is a very expensive pleasure for our current conditions. For example, a Kermi type 22 radiator with a size of 500*1000 mm, at ∆T=50°C, has a heat output of 1540 W. Such a radiator costs 5030 rubles. In order to compensate for the same heat output with low-temperature heating with a heat head of ∆T=30°C, it is necessary to have an equivalent output, taking into account the correction factor F=1.96. It turns out 1.96 * 1540 W = 3018.4 W. A similar radiator from type 22, which has a close heat dissipation, should already have an installation length of 2000 mm. The thermal power of a radiator of type 22, mounting height 500 mm and length 2000 mm is 3080 W, and it costs 8497 rubles. The overpayment will be 8497 - 5030 = 3467 rubles. If you choose a type 33 radiator, then a suitable model will have the following dimensions: height 500 mm, length 1400 mm, which has a thermal power of 3075.8 watts. The cost of such a radiator is 9584 rubles, which means an overpayment of 9584 - 5030 = 4554 rubles. And this is only on one radiator, but on the scale of an apartment or house, you will have to spend tens or even hundreds of thousands of rubles for low-temperature comfort. Therefore, before doing low-temperature heating, several factors must be taken into account:

  • Fully low-temperature heating is implemented with heat pumps or condensing boilers. For their operation with maximum efficiency, it is just necessary to have a thermal regime: t V \u003d 55 ° C, t R \u003d 45 ° C and t L \u003d 20 ° C. For classic gas or solid fuel boilers, this mode is dangerous, as it leads to abundant condensate, which has hyperacidity and in a short time it "eats" both the heat exchangers of the boilers and the chimneys.

  • The cost of heat pumps and all the necessary equipment for its operation, together with installation work very high. At current Russian gas prices heat pumps will not pay off for the entire period of their operation. The cost of condensing boilers is less than that of heat pumps, but it is higher than the cost of gas boilers of the corresponding capacity by 50-70%. A condensing boiler will provide maximum efficiency only in low-temperature heating and it can only pay off when water heated floors are used as heating in combination with radiators.
  • The use of purely radiator low-temperature heating is unprofitable, and at current Russian gas prices, such systems, most likely, will not pay off for the entire service life.

The idea of ​​low-temperature heating was actively promoted by the countries of Europe, where the gas price exceeds the Russian one by 5-10 times. This was the impetus for the development of such heating. It is too early for the inhabitants of our country, which has the largest proven reserves of natural gas, to worry that the price of this type of fuel will rise sharply. Therefore, low-temperature heating is of interest to us only from the point of view of the implementation of warm water floors.

Selection of sectional radiators

These types of radiators include cast iron, aluminum and bimetallic - that is, those that are assembled from separate sections. It is very easy to choose this type of radiators - you need to know the heat transfer of one section in the reference mode with a temperature difference ∆T=50°C or ∆T=70°C, and then simply divide the required power by the power of one section. The final result must be rounded up. For reliability, you can still “throw” a couple of sections, but this is not necessary, since everything has already been taken into account at the stage of calculating the required power.

The main guiding document that will make it possible to fulfill necessary calculations- this is a radiator passport or manufacturer's catalog, which contains all the technical characteristics of the devices. It is very important that the nominal heat flow (heat output) for one section is indicated in the passport and at what temperature difference (delta) this indicator takes place. Sites selling radiators very often indicate the power, but without indicating the delta. Of course, this indicator is taken at ∆T=70°C, since in this case the heat flow is greater, while silently saying that at ∆T=50°C the heat output of the radiator already decreases with a factor of approximately F ≈ 0.65. Consider the technical characteristics of bimetallic radiators of a well-known manufacturer of radiators in Russia Global.

In such a passport there is all the necessary information in order to make the necessary calculations. For example, to compensate for heat loss in a room with one window, 1500 W of heat output from a radiator is required. A heating system with ∆T=50°C is planned. To calculate the required number of sections, the required power must be divided by the power (heat flow) of one section. Let's say that the Global Style Plus 500 radiator is selected. Then the number of sections will be: 1500 W / 114 W = 13.16. We round up to the nearest larger and we get that 14 sections are enough. In width, such a radiator will take a distance of 80 mm * 14 \u003d 1120 mm. The window has an opening of 1500 mm. let's calculate how many percent the radiator will block the opening: 1120 mm / 1500 mm = 0.747. This is almost 75%, which means that with such a radiator, the window will have a good thermal curtain. That's the whole calculation. And any other sectional radiators are calculated in the same way. And there is no point in giving other examples.

Prices for popular sectional heating radiators

If sectional radiators are supposed to be used in low-temperature heating systems, then their power is recalculated with the same coefficients as for panel radiators. But their use in such systems is not recommended due to the high cost of aluminum and bimetallic radiators and the low heat transfer of cast iron radiators.

Ways to connect radiators and the effect of this on heat flow

Any radiator does not have any only one type of connection allowed (some manufacturers call this term connection), but has at least several options. If for sectional radiators all connections can be made only from the sides - from above and below, then panel radiators can also have other options, in particular, from below. Let's note what main types of connections radiators can have:

  • . This is one of the most popular connections used in heating systems. In this way, you can connect almost any radiator. Of fundamental importance is the location of the direct and return pipes. To realize all the possibilities of the radiator, the supply must be connected from above, and the return must be connected from below. If you do the opposite, then the thermal power of the device will decrease by about 30%. The power tables of Kermi radiators, which we considered earlier, are calculated with this connection.

  • Cross (diagonal) connection . This type of connection can be used for absolutely all radiators, but above all it is recommended for long devices, in which the width exceeds 3 or more times the height. The supply pipe is connected from the top left or right of the radiator, and the return pipe is connected from the bottom opposite side. Heat transfer with such a connection is even better than with a side connection by 2-3%.

  • . This type of connection is also sometimes used because of the desire to hide suitable pipes from view as much as possible. But it leads to a fall heat flow radiator by about 10%.

  • This type of connection can only be implemented on radiators that are specially designed for this. In almost all cases, these are panel radiators. Each manufacturer for this type of connection produces special sets of fittings that allow you to make a connection from the floor or from the wall. The location of the supply and return pipes is of fundamental importance and must be indicated in the manufacturer's passport or technical catalog.

In addition, other types of connections may still exist. For example, the supply pipe is from below, and the return pipe is on the side on the same side or on the opposite side. Such connections are called intermediate and they can be made only when it is not prohibited by the radiator manufacturer. And we suggest readers not to fantasize and use a side, cross or bottom connection.

When purchasing radiators, you must immediately take care of how to connect them to the system in the future. First of all, you need to ask what is included in the radiator kit, and then, if necessary, buy the necessary parts and assemblies. In any good store that sells plumbing, sales assistants will always tell you exactly what is needed for a particular type of radiator.

A set of steel panel radiators usually already includes mounting brackets, plugs and Mayevsky taps - to release air when filling the system. Some models already have built-in thermostatic valves that allow you to regulate the flow of coolant through the radiator depending on the air temperature in the room. Everything else will have to be purchased.

Sectional radiators are usually not supplied with a connection kit, so it is purchased separately. What should be included in this kit?

  • First of all, these are mounting brackets with dowels - for mounting the radiator on the wall. For mounting aluminum or bimetallic radiators, two or three brackets are usually included in the connection kit, which is quite enough.
  • Be sure to include transitional fittings - fittings. Moreover, two fittings should be left-handed, and two should be right-handed, since the threads on different sides of the radiator section are different. This is necessary in order to twist the sections into a single block using nipples. The threads on sections of aluminum or bimetal radiators are inch, so the fittings must also have the same thread and provide a ½ or ¾ inch transition. In most cases, 1″x1/2″ fittings will be needed to connect radiators and fittings.
  • When connecting sectional radiators, one of the outlets from them must be closed with a plug. She is included in the kit. Screws into a pre-installed futorku.
  • To release air from the radiator, a Mayevsky crane is included, which is also screwed into the futorka. For the convenience of working with it, a special key is also attached.

After using such a kit, the radiator will already be adapted for connection, but this is not enough, since special fittings will also be required for its successful operation. What can be included in the armature?

  • Control valves for radiators. Their task is to smoothly regulate the flow of coolant through the radiator. If the handle is replaced with a protective cap, the valve can be used as a setting valve. There are straight and angle ½” or ¾” control valves, which allow you to make liner in many ways. They have a detachable connection (American), which allows you to remove the radiator without dismantling the valve.

  • Control valves for radiators. They are designed to adjust the coolant flow through the radiator during balancing. They also have a quick connector. There are straight and angular, ½” or ¾”.

  • Thermostatic valves for radiators. They are designed for manual or automatic regulation of the coolant flow through the radiator. For the second case, the valve must be supplemented with a thermal head. Equipped with quick coupling (American), available in ½” or ¾”, angled or straight design.

  • Thermostatic solid state head. Designed for automatic control of the coolant flow through the radiator depending on the air temperature. The adjustment accuracy is 1°. Paraffin is used as a temperature-sensitive element. Allows you to adjust the air temperature in the range from 6.5°C to 27.5°C. The head is attached to thermostatic valve using M30 × 1.5 thread.
  • Thermostatic liquid head. Its purpose and connection to the valve is the same as the solid head. Toluene is used as a bellows filler. Range from 6.5°C to 28°C, adjustment accuracy 1°C.
  • Flow extensions. A very useful device for side connection of sectional radiators (aluminum or bimetal). The extension is screwed into the return manifold of the radiator instead of the fitting. Beforehand, a metal-polymer pipe 16 * 2 mm is screwed into the extension, having a length of 60-80 mm less than the length of the radiator. The result is a coolant flow through the radiator as with a diagonal connection. The flow extensions are available with left and right threads, with a transition to ½” or ¾”.

  • A set of thermostatic equipment for a radiator. It is very convenient to purchase a set of fittings for the radiator at once, as it is cheaper than buying separately. Such a kit includes everything you need: a setting valve, a thermostatic valve and a thermal head. There are kits with straight and corner elements, ½” or ¾”.

This is the main fitting that the radiator should be equipped with. In steel panel radiators, manufacturers also offer various sets of fittings that are recommended for use with a specific model of radiators. The catalogs describe in sufficient detail the use of a particular reinforcement. In this matter, neither fantasy nor unnecessary initiative is needed. It is best to take into account everything that the manufacturer's engineers recommend.

Selection of an expansion tank for a water heating system

An indispensable element in a closed-type heating system is an expansion tank. Without it, the heating system simply will not be able to work properly. So what is it for? Imagine that there is a closed and closed heating system, where the coolant in the cold state is under a pressure of 1.5 bar. Air from system is completely removed.

After the boiler is started and the circulation coolant begins to work, it will begin to heat up and move through the system. As the temperature rises, water increases in volume, and the higher the temperature, the more the volume grows like an avalanche. Imagine a container with a volume of exactly 1000 ml (1 liter), where water is poured to the brim at a temperature of 4 ° C (it is at this temperature that water has its maximum density). If you heat water to a temperature of 10 ° C, then only 0.27 ml will pour out of this container. It seems to be nonsense. But if you continue to heat, it will pour out more and more. At a temperature of 40°C, 7.8 ml of water will already pour out of the container, and at 70°C already 22.7 ml. That's enough. If the volume of the heating system is 100 liters, then when heated to 70 ° C, the volume of water will increase by 2270 ml or 2.27 liters. Water is practically an incompressible liquid, and the system is closed. Therefore, the pressure will grow strongly, and the water will “search” for the weakest point in the system, where to expand. Such a specially organized "weak point" is an emergency trap, which, when a certain threshold (usually 3-4 bar) is exceeded, opens and will release expanded water until the pressure drops. If the boiler is turned off and the coolant is allowed to cool, then its volume will decrease, the pressure will drop dramatically and, most likely, will become lower than the lowest permissible (usually 1 bar).

In order to prevent such unpleasant things from happening in the heating system, an expansion tank, also called an expansion tank, is installed in it (usually on the return line in front of the boiler). The tank is a sealed container, which is divided into 2 parts by an elastic butyl membrane. One part is designed for air (or nitrogen), and the other for the coolant. Each tank comes with a specific air pressure preset. Usually the tank is pumped up to the minimum allowed pressure in the system - usually 1 bar. The tank can be pumped with a conventional pump with a pressure gauge, but only when the system is empty. When pumping, the membrane bends so that air occupies almost the entire volume of the tank.

When filling the system with cold water, the membrane will remain in the same position until the pressure equalizes, and when it exceeds 1 bar, the membrane will bend and compress the air until the air and liquid pressures are equal. The heating system is usually filled with water at a pressure of 1.3-1.5 bar.

When the heating of the coolant in the boiler begins, the pressure also rises. The equilibrium in the expansion tank is disturbed, and the pressurizing coolant begins to push the membrane away until equilibrium is restored again. At 45°C the pressure can already reach 1.5-1.7 bar, and at 75°C it can reach 2.5 bar. In all these cases, the expansion tank must maintain equilibrium, allowing the water to expand and not allowing the pressure to rise above 3 bar.

If for some reason there is no pressure in the air chamber of the expansion tank or it is too low, the coolant will bend the membrane so that water fills the entire internal volume. there will be nowhere to expand and such a tank will only serve as a kind of “decor” for the boiler room. The opposite situation may also occur - when the pressure in the air chamber is too high. This will not allow the coolant to expand until its pressure exceeds the pressure in the air chamber. And if the tank is pumped up to 3 bar, then the expansion of water in the volume of the expander will not occur. The emergency valve will operate earlier. Therefore, always before the start of the heating season, it is necessary to check the integrity of the expansion tank and check the pressure.

How to choose an expansion tank? There is a very simple technique for this - its volume should be approximately 10% of the volume of the entire system. a lot of experienced heating engineers recommend such a method as "one hundred pounds". The question arises, how to find out the volume of the heating system? The best way is to fill through the water meter. That is why it is recommended to supply filling and replenishing units with them. The second way is by calculation. On our portal there is a convenient calculator for calculating the total volume of the heating system. We suggest you use it.

But there is another way, also implemented in the form of a calculator. Let's consider it in more detail.

Calculator for calculating the volume of an expansion tank for a heating system

To calculate the volume of the expansion tank closed system heating, the following formula is applied:

V=(VL*E)/D, where:

  • V L- the volume of coolant in the heating system.
  • E- coefficient of thermal expansion of the coolant in%. This is reference data.
  • D– Efficiency of the membrane expansion tank.

The efficiency of the tank, in turn, is calculated by the formula:

D=(P V —P S)/(P V +1), where:

  • P V- the maximum working pressure of the coolant in the heating system. This pressure is equal to the safety valve threshold. Usually this value is in the range of 2.5-3 bar.
  • P S - expansion tank preset pressure. This indicator must be indicated in the passport, but it happens that it requires adjustment. Usually, the air pressure in the expander with an empty system is 1-1.5 bar.

If the volume of the heating system cannot be measured, it is not possible not to calculate, then they act very simply: each 1 kW of boiler power is assigned 15 liters of coolant. This way works. Proven by time. Let's go straight to the calculator.

In our country, it is unlikely to survive without heating - the winters are too severe. If the owners of apartments do not have to choose - what they have is what they warm themselves with, then the heating system of a private house is a personal matter of its owner. Choose the option that suits you best.

Types of heating systems

In a private house, you can implement almost any heating system, as well as their combinations. To choose the right type of heating, you need to know all their features, advantages and disadvantages.

Stove heating

A century ago, this is how most of the houses, large and not so, were heated. It's just an oven without any additional elements. One or more - depended on the size of the house and the capabilities of the owners. In the huts there was usually a large Russian stove, in the houses of the intelligentsia and the nobility - more refined Dutch or Swedish women.

There is stove heating even now, but mostly already in summer cottages, as a temporary solution to raise the temperature in the room or as an alternative source of heat. You can find stove heating in village houses, but a rarity.

Stove heating is losing popularity, it is so cyclical: flooded - hot, burned out - cold. It is very uncomfortable. The second serious minus is the inability to regulate the temperature. The intensity of burning can be changed within certain limits with the help of views, but not drastically: if the firewood burns, then it releases a certain amount of heat. Its selection can be "stretched" a little by restricting the flow of air, but only a little.

The third drawback is the uneven distribution of heat. Those rooms are heated into which the sides of the stove go, and even then, the floor remains cold. In addition, even in heated rooms near the stove it is warm, at the far end of the room it can even be cold. The fourth drawback is the need for constant maintenance - you won’t leave it for a long time. You have to constantly (or almost) be near the stove: keep burning, clean and flood it in a new way. All these reasons have led to the fact that the stove in a private house usually appears as one of the possible sources of heat and is rarely the main one.

Water

The most common heating system in our country is water heating, and if they say that they want to do the heating of a private house with their own hands, 98% mean just such a system. And this despite the fact that it is expensive to set up. This is perhaps the most expensive system to install. But it has a decent amount of advantages, which is the reason for its popularity.

It consists of a hot water boiler, a pipeline and heating devices - heating radiators - through which the coolant circulates. Most often it is water, but there may also be a special non-freezing liquid. All the difficulty in creating this very system of pipelines - it is necessary to ensure the transfer of heat in the required amount.

Water heating is the most expensive device

The first positive point is that the system can operate both in cyclic and continuous mode. It depends on the choice of the boiler. If the heat source for such a system is a conventional solid fuel boiler (wood or coal), then cyclicity is present. In order to practically nullify it, a heat accumulator is added to the system - a large reservoir with a coolant in which heat accumulates during a period of intense heating. And at night, when the boiler burns out, the accumulated heat maintains a comfortable temperature in the house.

If there is any other boiler in the system - gas, liquid fuel, pellet - there is no cyclicity. After the system has reached operating temperature, it is maintained with a fairly small difference (with the correct calculation of capacities and design).

The second positive point: most modern heating boilers are equipped with automation that manages their work and monitors safety. Such systems can work for quite a long time without human intervention (except for solid fuel systems). The third plus is that rare maintenance is required.

Therefore, in most cases, heating in a private house is done with water. Sometimes owners do not even think about the possibility of building some other system.

Air

The center of the air heating system is also a heat source, and usually it is a boiler, but it does not heat water, as in a water system, but air. The heat source can be a powerful convector running on gas, electricity or liquid fuel.

In order for the heated air to enter other rooms, a system of air ducts is led from the heat source. The movement of air through them can be natural (gravitational systems) and forced (with fans).

Compared to water heating, much less money is required here. In small houses - for one or two rooms (usually these are summer cottages) - in general, one heat generator without air ducts is enough. In this case, warm air open doors gets into another room, warming it.

The disadvantages here are obvious: while the heat generator is working, it is warm, it stopped - it immediately became cold. No thermal inertia, as in a water system (until the water cools down, the house is warm). The second point is drying air. It also dries with other types of heating, but the air heating of a private house is perhaps the leader in this regard.

Electrical

Heating a private house with electricity is one of the easiest to use. Just buy convectors and hang them in key places. It can be under the windows, it can be under the ceiling. Both systems work. The disadvantage of these systems is the significant cost of maintaining a stable temperature.

The system consists of a number of convectors that are able to compensate for heat losses. In this case, there are no difficulties at all, except for the wiring of a suitable section and the allocation of the power required for heating. The convector has a heating element through which air flows. Passing along the heated element, the air warms up, spreading heat around the room.

The movement of air in the convector is organized in two ways: with or without a fan, due to natural processes. More efficient heating with forced air movement. But such power is not always needed (and fans create noise), so many models have two modes of operation - with and without a fan.

This type of heating is quite comfortable - modern convectors can maintain the set temperature with an accuracy of two degrees. Their work is controlled by automation, which turns them on and off as needed. When powered, they require no maintenance.

The disadvantage is that active convection (air movement) carries a large amount of dust. The second minus is overdrying of the air, but this is a disadvantage of all heating systems. If an ordinary spiral is used as a heating element, it burns out the oxygen in the air (heats up to a red glow). But such elements are now used only in the cheapest small floor models. More serious equipment heats the air with ceramic heaters that do not burn oxygen (almost).

There is also such a system as a warm floor, but this is a separate issue and is described, and electric ones.

Which system to choose

Actually, the type of heating of a private house depends on the climate and the mode of use of the premises. In most countries with mild winters, electric or air heating is used. In our country, water heating is used in most of the territories. It makes sense to build such a complex system in houses with permanent residence. Then such material investments are justified.

If you are choosing a heating system for a dacha, where in winter you will only appear on short visits and do not plan to maintain a positive temperature, then the best option is air heating. With or without air ducts - it already depends on the size of the cottage. Why not electric? Because in winter, the supply of electricity in rural areas is extremely unstable. So that better stove Buleryan type.

Types of water heating systems

Since water heating of a private house is installed in most cases, consider what types it is. There are some pretty significant differences.

According to the method of circulation of the coolant

There are two types of water heating: with natural and forced circulation. Natural circulation systems use a well-known physical phenomenon: warmer fluids rise to the top, colder fluids sink to the bottom. Since the system is closed, a cycle is formed.

The advantage of such a system is that it is non-volatile, that is, it does not require electricity to operate. This is important in many rural areas where power outages are the norm rather than the exception in winter.

More cons:

  • Pipes must be used with a larger diameter - the speed of movement of the coolant is low, therefore, to transfer a sufficient amount of heat, a larger volume of coolant is required. they must be laid with a constant rather large slope (about 3%), which does not add aesthetics to the room.
  • During natural circulation, the pipes are located or at a height of about a meter, which does not paint the room. The second option is an accelerating loop, which is also not very attractive. Better deal with two-story houses. In them, the second floor is a kind of accelerating loop.
  • The boiler is also required to be non-volatile, and this is solid fuel on wood or coal. All others require a power supply.
  • The middle of the radiators must be higher than the middle of the boiler (to ensure circulation). If the house is not ground floor, you have to either lift up the radiators, or make a recess for the boiler. Not the most fun either.
  • The inability to regulate the speed of movement of the coolant and the thermal regime in the room.

In systems with forced circulation, a circulation pump is integrated. It does not create excess pressure, it simply drives water through pipes at a given speed. Such a pump can be built into the boiler (gas heating units) or installed separately on the return pipeline before entering the boiler.

Circulation pump - the main difference between the heating system of a private house with forced circulation

The advantages of this solution:

  • Pipes are laid down - on the floor or under the floor.
  • The speed of movement of the coolant can be adjusted (multi-speed pump), thereby regulating the temperature in the room.
  • The pipe diameter is small. For a medium-sized private house, this is usually 20 mm or so.
  • The boiler can be installed any, with any automation. Automation provides a higher level of comfort and the ability to accurately maintain the desired temperature.

The disadvantage is the need for electricity. And it's not that a lot of it is required, quite the opposite, the system consumes 100-250 W / h like a regular light bulb. The fact is that without electricity, it is inoperable. For rare cases of shutdown, a power stabilizer with a battery is suitable, and if the power still turns off often, a backup source is needed - a generator.

By type of wiring

There are two types of systems:

  • single-pipe;
  • two-pipe.

Single pipe systems

In single-pipe, a pipe comes out of the boiler, sequentially runs around all the heating radiators, and from the outlet of the latter enters the boiler inlet. The main advantage is the minimum number of pipes. There are more disadvantages of such a heating device for a private house:


Better in this regard, an improved system - Leningradka. In it, each radiator has a bypass - a pipe segment connected in parallel to the heater. In this embodiment, at the inlet and outlet of radiators, you can put Ball Valves with which you can turn off the radiators. The coolant in this case will move along the bypass.

Two-pipe wiring

In this system, there are two pipes to which heating radiators are connected in parallel. Hot coolant is supplied through one pipe, cooled coolant is discharged through the other.

Cons - a large consumption of pipes, but water of the same temperature is supplied to the inlet of each radiator, it is possible to install a regulator on each of their heating devices, so that the system can be balanced (set the required heat transfer for each radiator).

There are several types of two-pipe heating systems:


According to the method of supplying the coolant

There are systems with upper and lower coolant supply. All schemes above are with lower distribution. Top feed systems are rare. They are mainly implemented in two (or more) storey buildings for a more economical construction of the system.

By type of system: open and closed

Since the temperature of the coolant in the system changes, its volume also changes. In order to have a place to put the surplus, expansion tanks are installed in the system. These tanks are open (normal tank) and closed (membrane). Accordingly, the systems are called open and closed.

An open expansion tank is usually placed in the attic of a private house. It is, of course, cheap, but in such a system there is a gradual evaporation of the coolant. Therefore, the amount of liquid must be monitored or done automatic device, which will respond to a decrease in level. Usually this is a float mechanism (like in a toilet) that opens / closes the water supply. The system is simple and fairly reliable, but only water can circulate in it. It is impossible to fill anti-freezes, since a change in their concentration is not allowed (and this happens during evaporation). In addition, most antifreezes are toxic and their vapors are also not curative.

Where such tanks can be used is in systems with natural circulation - a membrane one simply will not work with such a small pressure.

The expansion tank of the closed type is divided into two halves by an elastic membrane. With a lack of coolant, it displaces it from the tank, with an excess (pressure rises), the coolant stretches the membrane, occupying a larger volume.

With membrane tank

These systems work well with forced circulation, maintaining a stable pressure.

The harsh Russian winter makes everyone think about warming their home. And while the happy owners of apartments with central heating can shift their worries to the mighty shoulders of utility companies, residents of so-called private houses have to solve problems on their own. There are many heating options available. However, among the various home heating systems, water heating is most often chosen as the most practical and traditional option.

How is the water heating system arranged?

The principle of operation of water heating is quite simple. The design is a closed system consisting of a heating boiler, piping and radiators.

The boiler heats up the coolant, it can be water or a solution based on one of the glycols, which enters the radiators located in the heated room through pipes. The batteries heat up and give off heat to the air, due to which the room itself heats up. The cooled coolant returns through the pipes to the boiler, where it heats up again and the cycle repeats.

Water heating is a closed system in which the coolant circulates: 1 - expansion tank; 2-automatic control unit; 3-vortex generator; 4 - circulation pump; 5-tank-thermos

The circulation of the coolant, on which all water heating systems are based, can be carried out in two ways - natural and forced.

Option #1 - natural or gravity

The process is carried out due to different densities of cold and hot water. The heated liquid becomes less dense and, accordingly, weighs less, so it tends to move upwards through the pipes. As it cools, it thickens and then returns to the boiler.

The natural circulation system works due to the action of natural gravitational forces.

The forced system implies additional costs for the expansion tank, pressure gauge, pump, thermostats, etc.

The advantages of the design are undeniable: a small volume of coolant, which can be used not only water, less consumption of pipes, the diameter of which is smaller than in the previous case. The ability to control the temperature of heating radiators, batteries can be of any type with any pipe diameter. The main disadvantage is the dependence on the supply of electricity, with which the pump works.

For a more detailed comparison of the two options, check out this video:

An overview of the forced circulation system and a detailed description of the principle of operation are presented in our article:.

Devices required for system operation

A home water heating system will function smoothly only if its main components are correctly selected.

Boiler for heating the coolant

Practice shows that it can be of any type: gas, electric, liquid or solid fuel. The most economical models that run on gas. However, they require a gas pipeline, regular monitoring and maintenance by specialists. Solid or liquid fuel assumes complete independence of heating from centralized networks, but will require the arrangement of a special storage for fuel supplies.

The boiler is most often installed either in the basement of the house, or in a specially equipped room - the boiler room.

An electric boiler must be connected to the network and consumes a fairly large amount of energy. This option is generally of little use, since it is easier to install electric radiators and directly convert electricity into heat.

The power of the equipment is selected based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated room. On average, in order to equip water heating at home, a boiler with a capacity of 1 kW per 10 square meters is selected. meters with a wall height of no more than 3 m. It is also worth considering the degree of insulation of the home, the size of the windows and the presence of possible additional heat consumers.

Pipes that make up the heating circuit

Traditionally they were made of metal. But steel structures mounted by welding are easily corroded. Therefore, they were replaced by galvanized and stainless pipes, which do not have this drawback. Most reliable option from metal - copper pipes that withstand pressure drops, temperatures and are not subject to corrosion. They can simply be "hidden" in the walls of the house. However, the high cost of such equipment classifies it as an exclusive option.

The single-pipe system is practically unregulated, since an overlapped battery will block fluid access to all others.

If it is necessary to repair the radiator, it will be necessary to drain the coolant from the system, and only after that it is possible to manipulate the failed device.

Option #2 - two-pipe system

Such a scheme warms up the room more efficiently. It assumes the presence of two pipes suitable for each battery. Through one of them, the heated liquid enters the radiator, and with the help of the other it is discharged after cooling.

A distinctive feature of such a system: pipes with hot coolant are connected to radiators in parallel, which makes it possible to turn off the batteries if necessary.

You can learn more about the device and principle of operation of a two-pipe heating system from our article:

As in the previous version, the temperature in the last radiator will be somewhat lower, but the losses in this case are insignificant.

Option # 3 - collector wiring

The most convenient system to use, assuming the presence of a collector, from which a pipe with a hot coolant goes separately to each of the radiators and another one returns the cooled liquid. It makes it possible to regulate the temperature in the room, repair or replace any part of the system without first turning off the heating. The main disadvantage: high consumption of pipes and the need to install a manifold cabinet.

If desired, it is quite possible to equip home water heating with your own hands. System design will require accurate calculations and competent selection of equipment, which will subsequently need to be mounted with high quality. If there is any doubt about own forces, it is better to entrust a responsible matter to specialists who professionally and in a short time will perform all the necessary work. Their result will be a warm and cozy home.

Water heating is the most common option for heating a private house. The location of the main structural elements determines the type of system and features of its operation. A competent choice of the piping layout is the key to the efficiency of heating and the comfort of residents.

Classification of water heating systems

Water heating systems are complex engineering systems with many varieties. Water or aqueous solutions for special purposes act as a heat carrier in them. Depending on the configuration of the systems, they are classified according to the following parameters:

  • according to the method of circulation of the coolant;
  • by the presence of contact with atmospheric air;
  • according to the power supply scheme of devices;
  • according to the location of the main pipelines.

Heating scheme with natural circulation of open type. 1 - boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 radiator; 4 - hot outlet of the boiler heat exchanger, goes strictly vertically to the expansion tank; 5 - main supply pipe; 6 - riser; 7 - main return pipe; 8 - ball valve; 9 - drain with ball valve for coolant discharge

The first way to organize the movement of the coolant through the system is natural circulation. This option allows you to ensure the performance of heating without being tied to the presence of electricity. The circulation is carried out due to gravitational forces. The liquid heated in the boiler rises due to a decrease in density, enters the radiators, gives off heat and returns to the boiler.

Heating circuit with forced circulation of a closed type. 1 - boiler; 2 - air vent; 3 - pressure gauge; four - safety valve(numbers 2, 3, 4 make up the security group); 5 - expansion tank; 6 - radiator; 7 - coarse filter; 8 - drain; 9 - circulation pump; 10 - ball valve

The figure shows a single pipe system with vertical wiring. On different risers are shown different types device connections.

The above diagram shows the typical configuration of a two-pipe system with vertical wiring.

Single-pipe pressure heating system: 1 - boiler; 2 - security group; 3 - radiators; 4 - needle valve; 5 - expansion tank; 6 - drain; 7 - plumbing; 8 - filter; 9 - pump; 10 - ball valves

The simplest single-pipe system with horizontal wiring implies the sequential passage of the coolant through all devices within the same floor.

Collector scheme: 1 - boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - supply manifold; 4 - heating radiators; 5 - return manifold; 6 - pump

A two-pipe horizontal system can have a perimeter or radial (collector) wiring. In the first case, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the room, gradually powering all devices, in the second, each heater has a separate supply.

Beam distribution pipes are laid in the floor screed shortcuts to each radiator. At the same time, their configuration resembles rays emanating from one source - a distribution manifold. This was the reason for the appearance of the corresponding name.

Collectors in modern interiors of private houses are often neatly hidden in special lockers, which allows you to maintain the aesthetics of the room and hide the elements of setting and regulating the system.

Types of radiator connection

The scheme for connecting heating devices is selected based on the selected structure of the heating system, ease of installation and maintenance, as well as interior features.

1 - Two-pipe wiring. 2 - Single pipe wiring

The figure shows the main options for connecting radiators, typical for vertical systems.

BUT - lateral connection; B - diagonal; B - bottom connection

Analysis of circuits that are most often found in horizontal systems, shows that the type of connection of radiators has a significant impact on the efficiency of heat transfer. Before giving preference to a more convenient installation option, you should think carefully about whether you are ready to sacrifice some of the precious heat.

As can be seen from all of the above, the choice of a water heating scheme for a private house is associated with the need for a thorough analysis of many options. In addition to the described main varieties, there is an even more detailed classification. Consultation of a qualified specialist will help you quickly navigate in all the diversity, take into account the existing nuances and achieve the best results.

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