Where to start assembling a Pegasus shower cabin. Installing a shower tray: installation instructions. Installation of glass sashes

A shower cabin measuring 90x90 cm is an excellent option for installation in the washroom of a bathhouse. Compact dimensions allow the design to fit seamlessly even into the room small sizes, while the space available inside the cabin will be quite enough for comfortable water procedures.

Shower cabins 90x90 cm are in stable demand among buyers. Manufacturers react to this state of affairs and, in turn, regularly update their model ranges, offering consumers both budget designs without additional functions and elite hydraulic boxes equipped with many useful options.

Shower cabins can be equipped with very low (on average up to 8-10 cm), simply low (from 10-15 to 20-25 cm) and deep (on average 30-40 cm) trays. It is with the features and advantages of the last of the listed options that you are invited to familiarize yourself while studying the information below. Additionally, you will consider the procedure for self-installation of a 90x90 cm shower cabin with a deep tray.

shower cabin 90x90

Advantages and disadvantages of deep shower trays

Let's start with the pros and cons of products such as deep shower trays. It would seem, why incur additional expenses when buying this kind of product? Do they have advantages over lower and budget counterparts? Of course there is.

Firstly, the presence of a deep tray contributes to more intense heating of the interior space of the shower stall. The materials used to make shower trays are mostly characterized by excellent thermal conductivity, heat up fairly quickly and retain the heat given off by water for a long time (with rare exceptions). In view of this, a cabin with a deep tray will be as warm as possible and generally comfortable to be in.

Secondly, the deep tray can be adapted for a bath, even a very small one. To do this, just close the drain and fill the pan with water. Of course, you won’t be able to relax comfortably while lying in a container with an area of ​​up to 1 m2, but you can have a great time in a sitting position. And if you have a cabin with a deep tray, you don’t need to buy a baby bath – an additional plus for families with children.

A deep tray is an excellent replacement for a small bathtub

Along with this, deep shower trays also have their weaknesses. As noted, for the purchase similar product all other things being equal, you will have to allocate more money than to purchase a structure with a more modest depth.

In addition to additional financial costs, it is also worth noting the following disadvantages of the option under consideration:

With information on existing forms and materials for the manufacture of showers and cabin walls, additional functions and other important related nuances you can find in.

Below you can read the instructions for self-installation shower cabin dimensions 90x90 cm with a deep tray. The information received will allow you to refuse the services of third-party contractors or to monitor the correctness of their work and its final quality.

Instructions for installing a shower cabin

If you bought a high-quality shower cabin from some German, Italian or simply certified domestic brand, it will probably come with detailed installation instructions with beautiful diagrams, explanations for each item and comments regarding various nuances. If you decided to save money on purchasing a cabin for installation in a bathhouse’s washing room (and this is often how things are in practice), as a result of which the decision was made to buy an inexpensive Chinese cabin, opening the manufacturer’s instructions, you will either not find any text translated into Russian in it language, or it will be a low-quality machine translation in an extremely compressed form, literally like this:

• unpack the cabin;
• assemble the pallet;
• connect the siphon;
• assemble the walls;
• install the roof;
• connect the water and use it.

Of course, there can be no talk of any independent installation in accordance with such instructions.

By the way, since we are talking about the siphon. Representatives of the most budget price segment Most shower cabins are not equipped with a full-fledged siphon, but with its simplified analogue, which can hardly be called reliable, high-quality and durable. If this is the situation in your case, we recommend that you initially buy and install a normal high-quality siphon so that you do not have to replace it in the near future.

Note! We will not consider the installation process in detail, because... information on this matter has already been covered in detail within the framework of the relevant instructions. You can follow the provisions of the mentioned manual - for a cabin with a deep tray, the procedure will remain the same.

Prices for a siphon for a shower cabin

siphon for shower cabin

We will install such a pallet.

The length of the straight edges is 90 cm. The rounded shape is, in our opinion, more attractive, which is why we chose it. In general, the installation of rectangular and any other pallets is carried out in the same way.

In addition to a new siphon (if needed), you will need to prepare the following tools and accessories:

• sharp knife;

wrenches;

building level;

• gloves;
• several clean rags;
• soap;
• sealant;
• Phillips screwdriver.

Additionally, washers with M16 holes may be required.

Note! Until the installation of various additional devices (rain shower, cascade shower, lighting, etc.), the procedure for assembling the shower cabin remains the same, regardless of the model. We will not provide recommendations for arranging such devices, because... the features of their installation and connection may vary depending on the model and are described in detail in the accompanying instructions (frankly budget cabins are not equipped with additional devices, but reputable manufacturers take care of their customers and cover in detail the nuances of installing premium equipment).

Table. Installation of a shower cabin 90x90 cm with a deep tray

Good luck!

Video – Shower cabin 90x90 with deep tray

If there is not enough space, then it is better to refuse a bathtub in the washing room, since it is much more practical to assemble a shower stall, especially since they have now become more affordable. But is it really possible to do this yourself without involving specialists?

We will not talk about monolithic ones, supplied assembled, but about ordinary, assembled ones, which are especially popular among owners of small city apartments, for example, the manufacturer IKA. These same devices include corner showers. The whole device is not so complicated as to be considered something fantastic, and consists of the following “cubes”: the upper part (dome), the lower part (tray), the back part with side walls, sliding door leaves, a screen, and vertical racks.

Shower cabin arrangement

The times when each of us alone dragged such bulky structures from the store to the house are inevitably gone. However, you should not place too much trust in the delivery service. As soon as the kit is delivered to you, carefully inspect the above parts in the presence of the movers to ensure their integrity. It is especially worthwhile to carefully study glass components, which, although made of a fairly durable composition, still require special treatment both during transportation and during assembly.

It goes without saying that you need screwdrivers, drills and other standard tools. But there are still several important components, without which you can’t even begin to read how to assemble a shower stall:

• additional siphon (this part is usually included in the kit, but its quality is usually not as expected);
• silicone sealant;
• sealing thread, fum tape or tow;
• building levels of various lengths (2 or 3 pieces).

Tools for assembling a shower stall

After you have prepared a box with a carpenter's tool kit and the above “additions”, begin assembling the cabin. It should be noted that it is best to connect the components in the room, because many bathrooms are too compact and assembly directly on site will only bring inconvenience. Let's move on to the instructions.

Collecting in the right order

Now we’ll go step by step all the way to assembling a shower stall, we’ll try to anticipate all the inconveniences and possible mistakes.

How to assemble a shower cabin with your own hands - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Pallet

When touching the tray, wear gloves. It is made of fiberglass, and there is a possibility of seriously injuring your hand by driving a splinter under the skin. There is a warning about this in all instructions. Cover the floor with some material to prevent scratching or damage, and then place it upside down on this mat. Taking the long threaded pins that will later be used as legs, screw them into the existing sockets. Typically, IKA cabin kits include four of these parts. Some types of pallets are made of acrylic, and therefore the kit may include a special frame that increases the strength of the structure. In this case, all the holes are already prepared, and the assembler only needs to install the necessary fasteners in certain places.

After all the parts of the legs are assembled and they themselves are attached to the base, you can install the siphon and corrugated pipes. Now the completed part of the shower stall should be installed in the place in the bathroom where it will remain for the coming years. The corrugated tubes from the siphon are connected to the corresponding drains, and the legs must be adjusted using levels laid on top so that the horizontalness is as close to ideal as possible. Install a decorative screen on top of the pallet.

Please note:

• The place where the pallet is installed should also be carefully leveled if possible.
• It would also be useful to waterproof the threaded connections of corrugated pipes with a siphon and drain holes using sealing thread, fum tape or tow.
• When assembling the frame, it will be very nice if you make sealing gaskets made of foam material between it and the pallet.
• It is best to bend the corrugated hose into a horseshoe shape to block odors from the drain hole.
• The decorative screen should be installed after the horizontal position has been adjusted and the tightness of the drainage device has been carefully checked.

Step 2: Walls

You may be put off by the idea of ​​assembling a shower stall with your own hands only because the elegant system of functioning of the walls seems complicated and requires careful debugging. But no special difficulties will arise here either. Any instructions indicate how to install and combine the grooves and tenons. The rigidity of the structure is achieved after all the connecting bolts are tightened. At first you just need to bait them, and finally tighten them after all the elements have been adjusted.

If the walls are made of thick tempered glass, use extreme caution when assembling.

It is best to immediately mark the top and bottom sides after unpacking, so as not to create additional risk when moving items. Please note that the thin part of the walls with many holes and cutouts is always installed downwards. The glass component is secured after a seal is placed on its edge from below, and silicone sealant is placed in the groove of the tray. Then you should tighten the bolts and leave the walls alone until it hardens completely.

Please note:

• The racks must be secured with self-tapping screws in both the upper and lower parts.
• The fasteners should be tightened carefully and evenly, as there is a possibility of damaging the glass.
• The sealant must be applied with care so as not to block the drain.
• Excess silicone can be easily removed with a soap solution, and then just wipe the area where it was with a clean cloth.
• When installing the seal, the petal should be directed inward.

Step 3: Doors

The smooth movement of the doors is ensured by rollers, which are mounted on metal holders with rubber inserts, hung on the top and bottom of the doors. Here you should also not overdo it with tightening the screws. After assembly, the movement of the doors is checked, and if force is required, the lower rollers must be adjusted using the existing eccentrics. To make the doors close more tightly, magnetic latches are also installed on their edges.

Step 4: Dome

The assembly is considered complete when the dome is installed, communications with the cold, hot water and electricity, shelves and fittings are installed. Before installing the dome, you should install the provided devices: speaker, fan, watering can and lighting. To prevent the speakers from rattling, you can lubricate the gap between their edges and the body with a thin layer of sealant. The seals are installed after the doors are equipped with rollers. Don't forget about the screw caps for the casters, otherwise the screws that secure the casters may rust. The joint between the cabin and the rear panel must be additionally treated with silicone.

What to do after assembly?

We already know how to properly assemble a shower stall, now we will consider the criteria for checking our result. After final installation the entire device in its place, check again the operation of all communications. Also, go into the booth several times, checking that the doors are horizontal and easy to move. There should be no extraneous crunches, wobbles or jamming. If the IKA cabin is assembled correctly, additional fastenings to the floor and walls of the bath are not necessary.

When installing a corner cabin, it is necessary to ensure that not only the floor is level, but also the walls of the bathroom. Before purchasing a product, it is advisable to necessary work for leveling surfaces. If there is no confidence in reliability and stability assembled structure, you can firmly fix the legs to the floor, and additionally attach the booth to the wall (although this will be unnecessary).

If you think that the dome fastening is not very reliable, you can additionally fix the part using self-tapping screws. The main thing is not to get carried away, since the cabin material is also very fragile, and any crack is a gap in the overall tightness. When connecting communications, you should also special attention pay attention to electrical insulation. Do not allow wires to be pinched or water to enter their connections.

More and more people are getting rid of heavy, large bathtubs and installing shower cabins in their place - this is a truly beneficial solution in many aspects. Such cabins make it possible to save space in apartments and private houses.

The existing range of shower cabins is quite wide, but simply purchasing one or another model you like is not enough. It still needs to be properly assembled, installed and connected to communications. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to install a purchased shower cabin with their own hands. In fact, it is possible, you just need to have the desire and minimal skills in the plumbing field.

Features of cabin types

All modern variations of shower cabins can be divided into open and closed according to the type of design. Open ones are almost always cheaper than closed ones. On top of that, open models require high-quality waterproofing in the bathroom. It is worth considering each type in more detail - this will help you make your choice.

Open

Open showers are integrated into the bathroom layout. Such designs are also called shower enclosures, since they can only be installed in a corner. Sometimes they consist of almost nothing but transparent doors; not all models have a tray (if there is no tray, you will also have to install a so-called drain ladder).

Steam from hot water When operating such a cabin, it emits in large quantities, and accordingly, the humidity in the room will be high, and this necessitates the need for high-quality waterproofing. In bathrooms with such a cabin, you should place only moisture-resistant furniture.

Closed

Closed cabins are completely self-contained boxes; in addition to doors and a tray, they also have side and rear walls, as well as a top cover. This design can even be installed in the center of the bathroom if there is enough space. Closed cabins can be different sizes– from 0.7x0.7 meters to 2x2.1 meters. It is convenient to place the smallest ones in small apartments.

Closed oval or square cabins, unlike corner ones, are isolated from the general microclimate of the bathroom, and this can be considered a plus.

Some models have one or more additional options, and this attracts a certain category of buyers. We are talking about options such as:

• aromatherapy;
• hydromassage;
• Charcot's shower.

Sometimes the factory equipment of enclosed shower cabins even includes a radio. They are equipped with top and side lighting, a mirror, shelves and other useful devices.

Choosing an installation location

Installation of a shower cabin cannot be carried out without a preliminary and balanced selection of a location for it. There must be an electrical network, water supply and drainage nearby. The distant location of these important communications may result in additional hassle and expense.

It is advisable that next to the cabin there is also vent(hood) - this will reduce or reduce to almost zero the accumulation of condensation on the walls.

Before securing the booth, you should pay attention to the surface of the floor - the smoother it is, the better. If the condition of the floor leaves much to be desired, you will have to start leveling it or adjusting the height of the cabin legs. The walls near which the cabin is supposed to be placed must also be level. If the angle between the walls is not 90 degrees, the installer will definitely encounter a problem such as a gap between the walls and the cabin. In most cases, such a gap can be sealed with sealant.

Assembly order

The shower enclosure is delivered from the store disassembled and in packaging. To make it easier to assemble the structure yourself, all components are carefully sorted and laid out by the manufacturer.

In addition, the kit must include instructions, and in it clear drawing or a diagram from which you can understand the procedure for assembling the kit. IN general view this order can be represented as follows.

First, the pallet is assembled. Actually, this involves attaching legs to it (so that it stands level and does not have the opportunity to wobble), carefully installing it in the selected area and inserting sewer pipe. If the pallet included in the kit seems too fragile, it must be additionally reinforced with a frame.

The wall functioning system in many models may seem complicated. But in fact, even someone who is not very experienced can carry out the installation and combine all the tenons and grooves. home handyman. After this, the walls are simply secured with connecting bolts. When installing the top panel (if there is one), it is important to assemble it in advance and ensure yourself the convenience of working at a significant height by taking a stepladder.

The installation of doors and small fittings is generally similar for all models, but there are some nuances. The design of the guides and rollers, the shape of the doors may vary (they are not only semicircular, but also straight).

Sewage connection

High-quality instructions for correct assembly shower cabin usually contains information on how to equip a drain and install a siphon. So how is this done?

First with drain pipe deleted protective film. Then a pipe with a diameter of 4 cm with a special adapter is supplied to the installation site of the pallet. The adapter must have sufficient rigidity - this will increase the functionality of the sewer system and there will be no stagnation in the corrugation area.

Next, you need to lift the back of the shower tray and lay the shower hose on the drain elbow from below. The other end of this hose should be secured to the drain. Its edge, reinforced with fiber, must be attached to the side nipple on the drain elbow.

Now all that remains is to place the tray on the place prepared for the shower stall and check whether the hose or connections are leaking anywhere. The test is simple - open the taps completely and let the water flow. In this case, no puddles should form on the floor, and the drainage should be fast and of high quality.

Connection to water supply

As a rule, the shower cabin comes with two flexible hoses (for hot and cold water), it is with their help that you need to make the connection. In general, the procedure is quite simple. First you need to turn off the water supply risers and open all the taps fully, due to this the pressure in the water supply decreases.

Advice! If the diameters do not match, experts advise using the appropriate adapter.

To thread installed fitting it is necessary to apply lubricant and sealant (FUM). After this, the flexible hoses should be connected to the water pipes (hot and cold) and secured with an adjustable wrench. Now there is only one more action left - turn on the water and check if the system is tight.

Electrical wiring in the shower stall

As a rule, expensive shower cabins with various options require electricity. And there is an unshakable principle that in this case should also be observed: elements of water communication and elements of the electrical network are placed separately.

By default, you cannot connect the shower cabin to the electrical circuit that already exists. The cabin must be properly powered; for this procedure you will need electrical installation tools and materials: copper cable with double insulation, shield with RCD ( protective shutdown), waterproof socket IP44.

Pay attention! In some cases, the manufacturer requires grounding of the pan (the presence or absence of such a requirement must be clarified in the instructions). In this case, the pan is grounded by a potential equalization system.

In addition, in apartment shield It is advisable to install a separate machine with a power of 25 Amperes and a power of 5000 Watts. It is this device that most closely matches the maximum electric current in the cabin. RCD or automatic differential type installed in conjunction with circuit breaker. Such measures are necessary to protect against electric shock and prevent failure of the shower structure as a result of a short circuit.

Ceiling panel and fittings

The ceiling panel (or simply the roof) of a shower stall may contain several optional elements:

• shower head;
• fan;
• backlight;
• speaker

This panel is assembled in advance, and then, ready-made, it is fixed on a special support formed using side panels and the door frame. For a more reliable connection of joints, you can use special lubricants and sealing materials. Treatment with them will help prevent the specific humming of the shower stall when certain options are turned on.

Door fittings are usually installed in last resort. For this operation to be successful, you need to perform a number of actions.

In the lower and upper parts of the doorway, the rollers included in the kit are installed and turned out to the maximum. The door perimeter is finished with sealing material. After this, the door (usually made of tempered glass or fiberglass) can be installed in its place in the overall structure.

Now it is necessary to determine the optimal position of the door by adjusting the upper roller mechanisms. The screws that secure the rollers here are covered with special decorative plugs. Finally, the rest of the small fittings are installed: handles, mirror, and so on.

This completes the installation itself. But in order to be completely confident in your new shower stall, it is worth carrying out a final check of all components. The connections must be tight, and the pallet should not creak during operation (if it does creak, the legs under the pallet are adjusted again). Only after this the booth can be used.

The popularity of shower cabins is growing every year. The ability to significantly save space, a large number of additional options and “ fashion design", which often makes the shower stall the main decoration of the bathroom, have become the main reasons why shower stalls have become an integral attribute many bathrooms, in some cases even “displacing” them “ classic baths" Since the shower cabin is a complex plumbing fixture that is connected not only to the water supply and sewerage system, but also to the electrical network, its installation requires quite large quantity knowledge and skills. Although this does not mean that it is necessary to invite professional craftsmen to install a shower stall. It is quite possible to solve this problem on your own, following a few rules and recommendations. So, we install the shower cabin with our own hands.

Preparation of materials and tools

The first step is to check the availability of all parts of the shower cabin, as well as prepare the materials and tools necessary for installation.

The shower cabin itself, as a rule, consists of the following elements:

• Pallet;
• Side walls;
• Roof;
• Doors;
• Front apron;
• Side racks.

In addition to the main parts, the shower cabin is equipped with all the necessary fittings and fasteners. But, nevertheless, we recommend that you prepare several additional washers, rubber gaskets and dowel nails in advance.

In addition to the cabin itself, for installation you will need an adjustable wrench, a level, straight and Phillips screwdrivers of different sizes, a hammer drill or electric drill, a construction knife, sealant, fum tape or tow.

Pre-assembly

Before you begin installing the cabin, you must thoroughly study the instructions that came with it. And even if you didn’t have any questions while reading it, we strongly recommend that you carry out a trial assembly of the cabin before installing it in the bathroom.

This will not only allow you to clearly understand the assembly principle of the entire structure, but also make sure that all (even the smallest) parts are present, check the quality of holes and fittings, as well as identify defective spare parts and replace them in a timely manner. Of course, pre-assembly will take away from you certain time, but it will allow you to avoid many “unpleasant surprises” during final installation.

Naturally, during pre-assembly you should not “tightly” tighten the mounting bolts and nuts, or use sealant.

Pallet assembly

Shower tray assembly

Assembling a shower cabin begins with assembling and installing the tray. It should be assembled in accordance with the instructions, but, as a rule, it is done as follows:

At the corners of the pallet, studs are attached, onto which a cross-shaped support is installed. The legs of the pallet, which can be adjusted, are attached to the ends of the studs or to special pins on the support. In addition, an additional fifth leg is installed in the center of the support cross.

In some cabin models, the support crosspiece is additionally attached to the pallet using self-tapping screws. For this purpose, it is advisable to use only those self-tapping screws that were supplied with the cabin, since they are guaranteed not to fit in length and will not go through the pallet.

The next stage of assembling the pallet is the installation of the drain siphon.

Shower siphon

To do this, simply unscrew the top fixing nut from the neck of the siphon and push the freed pipe through the hole in the bottom of the siphon and screw it into place.

You don’t need any special wrenches for this – the plastic nut is screwed in “all the way” by hand. To ensure a tight connection, do not forget to install a rubber gasket between the nut and the tray (it should be supplied with the shower cabin). If, after checking for leaks (to do this, just pour a little water into the pan) a leak is detected, it must be eliminated using silicone sealant.

And the final part of assembling the pallet is attaching the brackets for the decorative apron (if provided for by the design of the shower stall).

Pallet installation

When the tray is assembled, it can be installed in the place chosen for the shower stall.

Installation of the pallet takes place in several stages.

First, the pallet must be leveled horizontally and vertically. To do this you need to use a regular rack level.

It is placed on the edge of the pallet, after which, by adjusting the height of the legs using special screws, the edge matches the horizon level.

When this is done, it is necessary to make markings for attaching the fixing hooks. To do this, use a marker or pencil to outline the lower edge of the pallet adjacent to the wall. On this line, in the area of ​​the corners of the pallet, holes are made into which special fixing hooks are screwed. The ends of the hooks should be left down. Now you can put the pallet in place, and then secure it by lifting the ends of the hooks.

When installing the pan, check that the free end of the siphon is securely connected to the sewer drain.

All that remains is to carefully “silicone” the joint between the pallet and the wall, after which the installation of the pallet can be considered complete.

Front apron

There is no point in paying much attention to attaching the front apron - it is attached in accordance with the instructions using special clip-on clips or regular self-tapping screws.

As with the additional fastening of the lower support, we recommend using only the screws supplied with the cabin.

Installing curtains

Before installation, you need to inspect the glass curtains for damage, and also decide where they are top and where they are bottom.

If there is no marking top part curtains can be identified by the presence of mounting holes.

Now we insert the glass into the guide rails, having first applied a layer of silicone sealant to the grooves. The glass is secured to the guides using clamping bolts.

The finished frame with glass can be installed on a pallet.

We install the assembled curtain vertically (check using a level or plumb line) and draw a vertical line along its front edge with a marker or pencil. On this line we attach the connecting profile using self-tapping screws.

Before finally tightening the screws, coat the joint between the profile and the wall with sealant. We immediately remove excess material using a dry cloth.

We attach the lower guide for the cabin door to the pallet. We also apply a layer of sealant between it and the pan.

We install the curtains and fix them on the bottom rail and side profiles using self-tapping screws.

It is better to tighten the screws after they are all installed.

It remains to install the upper guide arc. This completes the installation of the curtains.

Installation of walls and rear panel

Shower cabin with rear panel

Walls and a rear shower panel are not present in all models of shower cabins, but, nevertheless, we will briefly consider their installation. The walls are assembled in the same way as curtains on vertical posts and horizontal profiles.

The side walls are attached to the corner guides, pallet and wall using self-tapping screws. When they are installed between them, the back panel is attached.

Connection to the rear panel of water using flexible hoses, as well as power supply (if provided by the design) is made before its final installation.

Doors

The upper rollers must be installed on the shower doors before installation.

If the lower rollers are equipped with special springs, you can immediately install them. The roller mounting bolts should not be completely tightened.

If the bottom rollers are "spring loaded" then they simply "snap into the bottom slot". If not, then first they are installed in the groove and only after that they are fixed to the doors with fastening bolts.

We check the doors for tightness and, if necessary, adjust them using eccentric bolts. When the doors are adjusted, you can finally tighten the fasteners of the upper and lower rollers.

When assembling a shower stall, it is very important to read the instructions before something breaks - the features of the model may affect the specifics of the installation.

Even if you decide to install the product yourself, get an assistant: you will have to accurately fit the parts and carefully follow the installation rules. Only with this approach will the shower last 15-20 years - until it wears out completely.

Find out about assembling the shower cabin yourself and installing it in the bathroom yourself from our detailed instructions with video tutorial.

To assemble the shower cabin you will need consumables:

• Silicone and acrylic sealant. Acrylic – more suitable option for sealing external joints.
• Insulating tape-fum.
• PVA glue.
• A high-quality siphon (a siphon that comes with the product, usually cannot withstand loads).
• Adapter for sewerage (diameter – 32/50).
• Hoses (2 pieces, 1.5 m each) to supply hot and cold water.

Tools:

• Adjustable wrench.
• A set of screwdrivers (minimum – slotted and Phillips).
• Level to adjust the installation of the tray.
• Drill or screwdriver. It is most convenient to assemble the cabin with cordless screwdriver.
• Drills with a diameter of 3 and 6 mm.
• Screws.
• Gun for squeezing out sealant.

Experts recommend replacing the supplied metal screws with bolted connections (M5), and replacing the Chinese metal clamps for holding the hose with steel automotive ones.

How to check the quality of parts?

At the very end, when the shower stall was in place, cling to all handles, shelves, holders and other fittings. Everything is being checked and adjusted again. The best final check is a full shower, allowing you to notice everything important points and remove defects.

When collecting, you have to pay attention not only to general recommendations, but also on instructions and installation features separately for each manufacturer and even a specific model of shower cabin.

For example, the profile of the Niagara booths does not fit well with the other parts; the walls and doors are installed in a non-standard way. But the Ika brand has another problem - the presence of leaks depends on the accuracy of the location of the doors. So If the “native” instructions contain tips not mentioned above, be sure to follow them!